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HARLEY DAVIDSON FRONT THUNDERSTAR WHEELS INSTALLATION

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 08-11-2010

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Remove existing front wheel assembly. Save axle, axle nut, brake disc, and wheel spacers for kit installation. Refer to FRONT WHEEL in service manual. For FLSTC and FLSTN Models: Discard moon-style hub cap. -J04065 1 of 8 For FXSTD Models: Discard the tapered r ight side wheel spacer. Do not re-use brake disc/rotor screws. Re-using these screws can result in torque loss and damage to brake components. (00319c) NOTE • For Kits 43573-08, 43575-08, 43703-08, 43978-07, 43771- 07, 43609-07, 44323-07, 44282-07, 44322-07, 43975-07, 43602-07 and 43773-07 install short valve stem (43157- 83A) included in the installation kit. • For Kits 40943-09, 40966-09 and 40996-09 install long valve stem (43206-01) included in the installation kit. 2. See Figure 2. Install valve stem assembly (L, M or N) on wheel. Refer to TIRES in service manual. 3. Assemble wheel installation kit components and brake disc(s) to wheel, using the appropriate service parts table. Refer to FRONT WHEEL in Service Manual. NOTES Install the primary bearing first using appropriate service manual and WHEEL BEARING REMOVER/INSTALLER. For Kits 43573-08, 43575-08, 43703-08, 43978-07, 43771-07, 43609-07, 40943-09, 40966-09 and 40996-09: • The left side of the wheel has a machined groove (item 5, Figure 2) in the hub face and/or DOT markings to identify it as the brake disc and primary bearing side. • Install the wheel so that the valve stem is on the right side of the motorcycle. For Kits 44323-07, 44322-07 and 44282-07: • Install the wheel so that the hub markings are on the left side of the motorcycle. The left side of the wheel has a machined groove (item 5, Figure 2) in the hub face and hub markings to identify it as the primary bearing side. • These kits include one or two hub plates (43985-00) to install between the brake disc and the wheel and a chrome hub cap (43986-00) to install on the wheel opposite the brake disc side. Hub covers must be installed to prevent water intrusion, which could cause an imbalance condition. Dual brake disc models: Install one stainless steel hub plate (3) between each brake disc and wheel hub. Discard chrome hub cap (2). Install brake discs according to service manual procedures. Single brake disc models: Install one stainless steel hub plate (3) between the brake disc and wheel hub. Install the brake disc according to service manual procedures. Install the chrome hub cap (2) on the side opposite the brake disc. Discard extra stainless steel hub plate (3). • The gross axle weight ratings is unaffected by the installation of this wheel on a vehicle equipped with a 21-inch wheel. For Kits 43975-07, 43773-07, and 43602-07: • The wheel has a machined groove (item 5, Figure 2) in the hub face to identify the right side. • For 2007 and later FX Softail Models and 2008 and later FXDWG: The left side of the wheel is the primary bearing side. For all other models the right side of the wheel is the primary bearing side. • For Kit 43602-07: An arrow is engraved into the right side hub to indicate the direction of rotation. • For Kits 43975-07 and 43773-07: An arrow is cast between the spokes on the right side to indicate the direction of rotation. • These kits include one or two hub plates (43985-00) to install between the brake disc and the wheel and a chrome hub cap (43986-00) to install on the wheel opposite the brake-disc side. Hub covers must be installed to prevent water intrusion, which could cause an imbalance condition. Dual brake disc models: Install one stainless steel hub plate (3) between each brake disc and wheel hub. Discard chrome hub cap (2). Install brake discs according to service manual procedures. Single brake disc models: Install one stainless steel hub plate (3) between the brake disc and wheel hub. Install the brake disc according to service manual procedures. Install the chrome hub cap (2) on the side opposite the brake disc. Discard extra stainless steel hub plate (3). 4. Install wheel assembly parts from the appropriate Service Parts table for this fitment and stock brake disc. Discard parts from the installation kit that are not required. Refer to FRONT WHEEL in Service Manual. 5. For FLSTC and FLSTN Models: Install wheel kit and right side wheel spacer provided in installation kit. For FXSTD Models: Install wheel kit, stock left wheel spacer and right side wheel spacer from installation kit in place of the tapered right side wheel spacer discarded in Step 1. Refer to FRONT WHEEL in service manual. For FXSTS Models: Install the left side wheel spacer provided in the kit between the stock left wheel spacer and the left fork. All other models: Install wheel spacers previously removed. 6. Install front wheel (1), stock axle and stock axle nut. Refer to FRONT WHEEL in service manual

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AJS DISMANTLING AND REBUILDING FULL-WIDTH FRONT WHEEL HUBS INSTALLATION

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Filed Under (AJS) by admin on 31-10-2010

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Removal of the Brake-side Bearing Cup The bearing cup (5) is located endwise by a circlip (1), and between the cup and circlip arc an oil-seal retaining washer (4), oil seal (3), and oil-seal cup washer (2) Before these parts can be removed from the hub the bearing cup must be moved inwards for a very short distance (3/16-inch) so that the circlip can be withdrawn. (n) Gently heat the hub shell. (i) Place a soft metal rod (e.g. brass) against the oil-seal cup washer (2) and apply pressure with a hand press or hammer blows. It is only necessary to move the bearing cup (5) inwards about 1/16-inch. (j) Extract the circlip by inserting a narrow pen-knife blade under one end of the circlip; lift it upwards and outwards and prise the clip out of its groove. (k) Remove the oil-seal cup washer (2), oil seal (3) and oil-seal retaining washer (4). They can be hooked out with the shank of a small and narrow screw­ driver, (l) The bearing cup can now be ejected by placing a suitable rod of soft metal (e.g. brass) in the hub tunnel from the right-hand side and pressing it — with a press or hammer blows — against the bearing cup until the cup is forced out of the bearing. This must be done with care so that the cup remains square with the housing. Reassembly To facilitate replacement of the bearing cups gently heat the hub shell. Just too hot to hold is about the right temperature. (a) Place the brake-side bearing cup squarely in the hub shell — the open end faces inwards — and press it into the hub tunnel A short length of brass rod, slightly less than the outside dia­ meter of the cup, should be interposed between the cup and ram of the press, or hammer head. Press the cup in until the outer face is approximately half-an-inch below the mouth of the hub tunnel. This will allow sufficient room to allow [he circlip to be inserted into its groove. (b) Refit in the following order: oil-seal retaining washer (4), oil seal (3), oil-seal cup washer (2). (c) The circlip can now be replaced. In the interest of reliability use a new circlip, for it is possible that the existing circlip was strained when it was re­ moved. (d) Insert into the hub tunnel from the right-hand side a brass rod of suitable length, and press the bearing cup firmly against the circlip. (e) Before inserting the spindle complete with the roller races, pack them with clean and fresh grease of a suitable grade (Mobilgrease No. 4. Castrolease heavy, Energrease C3, Esso Pressure Gun Grease. Shelf Retinax Grease CD or A). (0 Insert the spindle into the hub. (g) Place the right-hand side bearing cup in the hub tunnel; the open end faces inwards, It may be necessary to re-heat the hub to allow the cup to go into position without difficulty. (h) Press the cup into position, but do not force it fully home, leave some end play on the spindle. (i) Refit in the following order: oil-seal retaining washer (6), oil-seal (7) and oil-seal cup washer (8). (j) Screw into the hub the adjusting sleeve (9) until it comes into contact with the bearing cup (5)

KTM Rear Wheel Bearing Installation and REMOVAL

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Filed Under (KTM) by admin on 23-01-2012

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1 Insert a long punch (with a good square edge) into the center of the aluminum wheel bearing spacers and push up against the inner edge of the spacer on the opposite side of the wheel (Fig. 1). 2 Using a hammer, tap the punch around the entire circumference of the spacer until it completely slides out of the bearing (Fig. 2). Turn the wheel over and remove the other spacer in the same way. 3 Use a long screwdriver or narrow pry bar and pry the seals out of each side of the wheel (Fig. 3). 4 Using snap ring pliers, remove the bearing retaining snap ring from either the disc or sprocket side of the wheel (Fig. 4). 5 Insert a long punch (with a good square edge) into the center of the wheel bearing, and push up against the inner edge of the bearing on the opposite side of the wheel. Using a hammer, tap the punch around the entire circumference of the bearing until it completely slides out of the hub. Turn the wheel over and remove the other bearing in the same way. NOTE: It may be necessary to tap on the punch sideways at first to knock the center aluminum sleeve off center so that you are able to get the punch on the edge of the bearing. 6 Clean areas where bearings will be inserted back into hub and apply a thin coat of grease around the machined hub surface. Tap the bearing on the snap ring side of the hub into the machined hub surface, making sure to keep it square with the hub as it goes in and only tap on the outer race of the bearing. Once you get the bearing flush with the outer edge of the hub, use a socket or piece of pipe that is just smaller than the outside diameter of the bearing to finish tapping the bearing into the hub. (Fig. 5)

ESCAPADE TRAILER Wheel Bearing Removal AND OWNER'S MANUAL

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 20-11-2010

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1. Remove lug nuts and wheel assembly. Remove the cotter pin, adjusting nut (castle nut) and washer from the wheel spindle. 2. Pull the wheel hub towards you to loosen the outer bearing cone. Don’t Let the cone fall to the ground. As the hub is removed, the inner bearing and grease seal will come with it. Observe which direction the inner seal is facing. Pry out the inner seal and discard. 3. Remove all old lubricant from the hub assembly and wheel spindle with kerosene or mineral spirits. CAUTION: do not use gasoline to clean and remove the old lubricant). Inspect the spindle for scoring, bending, thread or other damage. A light grease coating on the spindle will make bearing installation easier and prevent rust from forming. 4. Inspect cups in the hub for pitting, metal flaking, scoring, rust or other obvious damage. Remove any damaged cups with a mild steel bar. Replace cups and cones in matched sets only; not one at a time. 5. Use cup driver or mild steel bar to press or drive the new cup into the hub Wheel / Rim: 12 X 4 JA (4 bolt, 4″ bolt diameter, 2½” rear space) Tire: 4.80 X 12 (B) (4 ply rated; cold pressure rated to 465 lbs. of load at 25 PSI). NOTE: These are standard utility trailer size tires and wheels. Using oversize tires or increasing tire pressures to a level higher than recommended will not increase the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR). HUBS For maximum performance from your Sport Wheels and to avoid damage to your trailer, observe the following precautions: •When buying a replacement hub, check that the hub flange is no smaller than a diameter of ?”. •The replacement hub must accept the 1″ bearing (Part Number L44643) and matching cup. •Torque all lug nuts holding the wheel to 75 ft. lbs. TRAILING ARM / SWING ARM No maintenance is required for the trailing arm bearings for the life of the trailer. However, if the trailing arm is removed for any reason the following steps must be followed. 1. Once the ¾” X 16 hex nut has been removed, discard it, and replace with a new lock nut of the same design. 2. When replacing the trailing arm, be sure the bearing spacer is located between the bearings. 3. Torque the hex nut to 14 ft. lbs while moving swing-arm up and down.. DO NOT BACK OFF FOR ADJUSTMENT . Insufficient torque to the

KYMCO MAXXER 300/ 250 MONGOOSE 300/ 250 SERVICE MANUAL

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Filed Under (Kymco) by admin on 26-10-2010

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apply or add designated greases and lubricants to the specified lubrication points. ÑAfter reassembly, check all parts for proper tightening and operation. ÑWhen two persons work together, pay attention to the mutual working safety. ÑDisconnect the battery negative (-) terminal before operation. ÑWhen using a spanner or other tools, make sure not to damage the motorcycle surface. ÑAfter operation, check all connecting points, fasteners, and lines for proper connection and installation. ÑWhen connecting the battery, the positive (+) terminal must be connected first. ÑAfter connection, apply grease to the battery terminals. ÑTerminal caps shall be installed securely. 1 . GENERAL INFORMATION 1-6 ATV 300/250 ÑIf the fuse is burned out, find the cause and repair it. Replace it with a new one according to the specified capacity. ÑAfter operation, terminal caps shall be installed securely. ÑWhen taking out the connector, the lock on the connector shall be released before operation. ÑHold the connector body when connecting or disconnecting it. ÑDo not pull the connector wire. ÑCheck if any connector terminal is bending, protruding or loose. Confirm Capacity 1 . GENERAL INFORMATION 1-7 ATV 300/250 ÑThe connector shall be inserted completely. ÑIf the double connector has a lock, lock it at the correct position. ÑCheck if there is any loose wire

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Honda 400EX Hub installation instructions

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 20-12-2011

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Remove all contents from its packaging and verify that all parts are present and free from damage. You should have the following items: (2) wheel hubs (2) smaller tapered bearings (2) large tapered bearings (2) wheel bearing nuts (2) dust caps (2) inner bearing seals (6) M3 x .5 screws (2) cotter pins (2) inner bearing spacers 2. Completely remove the old hubs from your quad and clean the spindle and the surrounding areas. It is very important to keep the new bearings and seals clean during installation for long life. Be sure to remove the factory inner bearing spacers from the spindle and discard. They will not be used in re-assembly. 3. Pack your new Timken tapered wheel bearings with a liberal amount of high quality wheel bearing grease. A wheel bearing packer works best, however you can accomplish the task by placing the grease in the palm of your hand and manually working it in between the bearing rollers. We also recommend that you pack the area between the bearing races in the hub with grease for additional lubrication and protection against moisture. 4. Place the large wheel bearing (inner) into the hub and install the inner seal. The seal should bottom out against the step in the bore and the face should be flush with the hub. 5. Remove the brake rotors from your old hubs. Re-install the rotors on your new hubs and be sure to use medium strength Loctite on the threads. 6. Apply a light film of grease or oil to the large diameter of the spindle stud. Install the new o-ringed bearing spacer onto the spindle. 7. Apply a thin film of grease to the seal surface on the bearing spacer and the inside diameter of the seal to prevent the seal from running dry. Install the hub onto the spindle and slide the outer bearing over the spindle and install the new bearing nut furnished with your hubs. Do not use the factory nut or washer. 8. SETTING THE BEARING PRELOAD: It is first necessary to seat the bearing before setting the preload. This aligns the rollers and prevents the bearings from loosening after a short period of use. To seat the bearing, tighten the spindle nut while you rotate the hub until the hub becomes difficult to spin. With the bearing now seated, you must set the bearing preload. Preload means placing a small amount of force against the bearings to remove any clearance between the bearing race and the rollers. This is done by backing the nut off completely and re-tightening it with your fingers. Do not rotate the hub while setting the preload . If a hole in the spindle is not accessible for installation of the cotter pin, adjust the nut tighter to bring a hole into alignment. Install the cotter pin and bend the pin around the outside of the nut. Do not attempt to bend the pin toward you (over the end of the spindle) or it may rub on the inside of the dust cap.

HARLEY DAVIDSON WHEEL BEARING REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION TOOL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 19-02-2011

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BEARING REMOVAL 1. Place the wheel vertically in a vise and protect the rim from being marred. NOTE See Figure 1 for the tool lubrication locations before using. 2. Assemble the remover tool. a. Install wheel bearing puller (1), (2) or (16) depending on the bearing I.D. See the service parts table for the size reference. Install the wheel bearing puller into the bearing by hand or use a rubber mallet ( not a hard-faced hammer) to push through the bearing I.D. Stop pushing on the bearing puller as soon as it has cleared the inside of the bearing race. There will be a slight click. b. Place main body puller (3) over bearing puller with the fingers of main body puller facing the wheel. Lightly oil all threads. c. Place the large brass washer (10) and nut (13) onto the puller and hand-tighten the nut until it stops at the top face of the bridge. 3. Remove the front wheel bearings. a. Apply a small amount of oil to the taper at the hex end of the expander dowel. Insert the expander dowel (7) through the other side of wheel bearings, and through the bearing puller. b. Install the washer (15 and nut (14) to the expander dowel and torque to 100 in-lbs (11.3 Nm) with a 11/16 inch wrench or socket while holding the other side of the expander dowel by reaching the opposite side of the wheel with a 3/8 inch hex key. c. Align the main body puller support fingers centered over the bearing to be removed. If main body puller will be directly on a finished chrome surface, protect the surface area. d. If resistance is felt with a torque wrench set at 40 ft- lbs (54.2 Nm) of torque, you will need to apply heat to the hub area surrounding the bearing. Prior to applying heat, place 2 to 3 temperature stickers (P/N 94146-10) around the circumference of the hub. Apply indirect heat using a heat gun. Do not exceed 210°F. With a 1-1/8 inch socket and torque wrench, turn the nut (13) until the bearing is pulled free from the wheel hub. e. Using a 3/8 in. hex key on an extension and torque wrench set on the expander dowel (7) and a 1-1/8 inch wrench. Turn the nut (13) until the bearing is free of the wheel hub. 4. Remove the wheel bearing spacer from the I.D. of the wheel hub. 5. Repeat steps 1 through 4 for the opposite bearing. NOTE Remove rear wheel belt sprocket before removing the bearings. 6. Rear wheel bearing removal is the same as steps 1 through 4 by using the correct size wheel bearing puller

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YAMAHA V-Star 1100 Carburetor Bowl Screw Repair and Removal After Stripping and Pilot Cap Removal

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 19-01-2012

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When I first started working on bike many years ago, I learned the danger of stripping the heads of Philips screws when removing or installing them on motorcycles. I remember the two worst screws were the casing side-cover aluminum screws and carburetor bowl screws. I think I tried every method of screw removal after they were stripped. Vice grips, better tipped screwdriver, hammer, drill, and other tools were used. One way I learned to remove stripped screws is to re-make the Philips head into a flathead screw. Cutting a slot in the top of the screw and then use a flat-head screwdriver to remove the screw. On some parts this technique can work, other parts and screws it may not. The Philips screws on the bottom of the V-Star carburetor bowls are VERY prone to stripping. In fact, I will not start a carburetor cleaning without new hex head screws to replace the original Philips bowl screws. Replace the bowl screws for yourself if you keep the bike, or for the next rider that will appreciate the hex-head screws when they clean the carburetors. Not many other parts on a V-Star have screws that are prone to stripping. This documentation is to help riders with motorcycle maintenance. Some riders will find themselves with the problem of removing stripped screws. A carburetor cleaning can quickly double in time when you realize the hardest part of the job is removing bowl screws after they strip. And then realizing you do not have the replacement hex-head screws available and must now go to the hardware store.

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HARLEY DAVIDSON DUAL DISC FRONT BRAKE KIT REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 07-03-2011

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This kit is designed for installation on the following models which have original equipment 39mm front fork tubes (including chromed tubes) and 19-in. cast-aluminum front wheels: • 2000 – 2003 XLH 883, XLH 883 Hugger and XLH 1200 • 2000 – 2003 FXD (Super Glide) This kit can also be installed on the above XLH and FXD models which have original equipment 39mm front fork tubes and 19-in. laced front wheels only after one of the following procedures is performed: • The original single-flange hub of the 19-in laced front wheel is replaced with a new double-flange hub (H-D Part No. 43629-00), (sold separately) which will accept the second brake disc. OR • The original 19-in. laced front wheel assembly, which has a single-flange hub, is replaced with a new 19-in. laced front wheel assembly (H-D Part No. 43579-00), (sold separately) which has a double-flange hub designed to accept the second brake disc. See the Service Parts Illustration for a list of the contents included in this kit. This kit does not include the front brake line required for a dual disc system; the brake line must be purchased separately as follows: • For XLH 883 motorcycle equipped with low-rise (flat) handlebars, order dual disc brake line H-D Part No. 45148-96. • For XLH 883 Hugger, XLH 1200, and FXD Super Glide models with “buckhorn” (pull-back) handlebars, order dual disc brake line H-D Part No. 45111-96. The rider’s safety depends upon the correct installation of this kit. Use the appropriate service manual procedures. If the procedure is not within your capabilities or you do not have the correct tools, have a Harley-Davidson dealer perform the installation. Improper installation of this kit could result in death or serious injury. (00333a) Brakes are a critical safety component. Contact a Harley- Davidson dealer for brake repair or replacement. Improperly serviced brakes can adversely affect brake performance, which could result in death or serious injury. (00054a) Removal and Disassembly – Front Brake System NOTE A Service Manual for your motorcycle is available at your Harley-Davidson Dealer. 1. Block motorcycle underneath frame so that front wheel is raised off the ground slightly. 2. Remove original front brake caliper from left side of front fork according to appropriate Service Manual procedures. Let caliper hang loose on brake line. Save all components and fasteners for reinstallation. NOTE Do not operate the front brake lever with the front caliper removed because the piston may be forced from the caliper. Reseating the piston requires disassembly of the caliper . 3. Remove socket head screw which secures a clamp (retains front brake line) to underside of front fork lower bracket (lower triple clamp). Discard clamp and screw. 4. Remove screw, lockwasher, and clamp which secure front brake line to right rear side of front fork upper bracket (upper triple clamp). Save all components for reinstallation. 5. Remove right mirror and, if applicable, right turn signal lamp assembly from original front brake master cylinder casting. Save all components and fasteners for reinstalla- tion.

2001-2003 XV16 Fuel Pump and Carburetor Removal

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 31-12-2011

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Disconnect the carburetor fuel line hose at the fuel pump. •Disconnect the fuel pump wire coupler. •Remove the choke cable from fuel pump bracket. •Remove the upper engine mount, leaving the fuel pump attached to the mount. •Disconnect the TPS and carburetor wire couplers.       Disconnect the throttle cables, and then remove the carburetor. NOTE: The idle adjuster can be removed from its bracket without loosening the bracket screws. PAGE 3 of 12 HIDDEN 6mm SCREW 6mm BOLT UPPER ENGINE MOUNT/ FUEL PUMP CARBURETOR PAGE 4 of 12 Right-Hand Footrest Removal: •Disconnect and remove the brake light switch. •Remove the forward-most tie wrap around the brake hose and frame. •Remove the footrest assembly. NOTE: Leave the brake hose attached. Move the hose to the underside of the foot rest mount and support it as necessary so that it is out of the way Cylinder Head Oil Pipe Removal/ Installation: •Slightly loosen all three banjo bolts before removing them to prevent oil line deformation. NOTE: When loosening the upper banjo bolts, hold the line in place using a wrench at the flat surface on the fitting. Air Injection System (AIS) Removal: •Remove the electric starter motor. •Remove the regulator/rectifier assembly. Remove the AIS pipes from the cylinder head, but leave them attached to the AIS assembly. •Remove the three screws with 8mm heads, and then remove the AIS air filter from the right side. •Remove the three Phillips head screws holding    the AIS assembly on the frame. •Remove the AIS assembly from the left side. FOOTREST ASSEMBLY UPPER BANJO BOLT AIS AIR FILTER AIS ASSEMBLY
PAGE 5 of 12 Transfer Case Removal: •Remove the transfer case bracket first. Then remove the outer chrome cover, inner cover, and drive-sprocket nut. NOTE: There is a sealing washer between the inner case and the transfer case at the 8mm stud. Be sure to replace it during re-assembly. •Remove the two chrome oil lines between the engine and oil tank. NOTE: Retain the four O-rings for re-use. •Remove the drive pulley cover and remove the drive pulley nut. •Loosen the drive belt tension. •Remove the drive pulley, inner cover, collar, and O-ring. NOTE: The collar has a bevel on its inside diameter     for the O-ring facing inward and a bevel on the outside diameter facing the pulley. •Remove the drive and driven sprockets with chain as an assembly. •Remove the collar and O-ring. NOTE: Collar has a bevel on its inside diameter that faces inward for the O-ring. •Remove oil tank filler neck. •Remove the relay bracket on the right-hand side. NOTE: Leave the relays connected. Simply move them out of the way to allow room for transfer case removal. •Slide the transfer case out from the right side.

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