Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 09-11-2010
Start on the right (brake) side. 1) Loosen the nut at the end of the brake rod. This will allow you to unscrew the brake rod from the brake lever clevis later. 2) Pull out the cotter pin and remove the pivot pin. Unscrew the clevis 3) Then using a 14mm socket or box-end wrench, remove the two bolts that hold the brake floorboard/footpeg assembly (whichever your bike has) to the frame. These bolts are torqued to 46 ft lbs, so this may be a bit difficult. 1. Loosen this nut 2. Remove the cotter pin (other side of this pivot pin) remove the pivot pin a unscrew the nut to remove the clevis nd 3. Remove these bolts When you remove the floorboard/footpeg bracket, be careful not to pull the brake switch wires loose. You may wish to cut the cable tie for more room, and then rest the bracket, with the footpeg or floorboard attached, on a short box, or block of wood, to keep it handy. Install the new brake rod, to the end of the existing brake rod. Re-install the pivot pin, and the pivot pin cotter pin. Installing the extension bar: Note that the extension bar is bolted so that it rises up in front. Use the new bolts to mount the floorboard/ footpeg bracket to the threaded holes in front. Install the Extension in the proper orientation (angled holes bolt up to the frame, with front of the bar higher than the rear – see photo) using the stock bolts for the extensions to the frame and the new bolts and washers supplied with the kit, on the forward threaded section to relocate the floorboard or footpeg bracket. The use of LocTite ® Blue here is recommended. At this point the right side Floorboard or Footpeg should be secured tightly and the brake lever hanging loose. Now install the Brake rod extension, threading the male end to the original brake rod. Don’t tighten this end yet Place the clevis over the forward most end of the brake rod extension, and threat the clevis nut onto the end of the rod. Bring the brake rod upright, to meet with the clevis at the end of the brake rod extension and replace the pivot pin. Before reinstalling the cotter pin, check the angle of the brake lever, to insure that you have the brake pedal where you want. If necessary, adjust the extension rod in or out, until you are satisfied, and then reinstall the cotter pin into the pivot pin. Check the Brake switch wire and install a new cable tie if required. Note: Due to utilizing a thicker material, 1/2″ versus 3/8″ from our competitor, the Brake rod is now positioned at a greater angle. Even with the angle, braking performance is not affected, but if you wish to bring the master cylinder in line with the brake rod, do this. Loosen the rear, and remove the front Allen bolt. Then place two washers behind the front bolt, under the bracket, and then re-install the bolts To change the angle of the brake rod, 1) loosen and remove the two master cylinder bracket Allen bolts 2) insert two washers behind the front bolt (front of the bike), behind the master cylinder bracket 3) tighten both bolts. Do not install any washers on the rear mounting hole. This will make the angle of the Brake Rod less aggressive. Step Two – Left Side For the left (Shifter) side, 1) use an open-end 10 mm wrench, to unscrew the two nuts that hold the shift rod in place. PLEASE note that one end of the shift rod has a left hand threaded nut. SAVE the nuts, as you will need them on the new longer Polished Stainless Steel Shift Rod. 2) Remove the stock shift rod. 3) Then using a 14mm socket or box-end wrench, remove the two bolts that hold the shifter floorboard/footpeg assembly (whichever your bike has) to the frame.
Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 15-02-2011
REMOVAL 1. See Figure 1. Remove stock shifter rod (D). 2. Adjust new shifter rod in kit to match the length of the removed shifter rod by loosening locknuts (3), adjusting the length of the rod, then tightening locknuts to 20-24 ft- lbs (27-32 Nm) . 3. For models with a straight rear shifter rod lever: Discard spacer (7). Place cover (1) over the shifter rod lever (C). For models with an offset rear shifter rod lever: Place spacer (7) and cover (1) over the shifter rod lever (C). INSTALLATION 1. Apply Loctite® 243 to threads of capscrew (5) and install cap screw through the rear of the shifter rod and into the shifter rod lever. Tighten cap screw to 13-16 ft-lbs (18-22 Nm) . 2. For 1999 and later FLHT, FLHX, FLHR, and FXDWG models: Place the rod end on the outside of the shifter lever, then apply Loctite® 243 to the threads of capscrew (5). Attach the front of the shifter rod (6) to the shifter lever with capscrew (5) and acorn nut (4) (with acorn nut facing out). Tighten acorn nut (4) to 13-16 ft-lbs (18-22 Nm) . For all models except 1999 and later FLHT, FLHX, FLHR, and FXDWG: Place the rod end on the inside of the shifter lever then apply Loctite® 243 to the threads of cap screw (5). Attach the front of the shifter rod (6) to the shifter lever with cap screw and acorn nut (4). Tighten acorn nut (4) to 13-16 ft-lbs (18-22 Nm)
Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 30-11-2010
33 SHOP EQUIPMENT & TOOLS SUSPENSION SERVICE TOOLS K&L FORK TUBE U-BLOCKS Precision machined from billet aluminum, these quality three piece sets are a handy, accurate and safe way to straighten and check fork tubes. 35-9411 36mm (for 33 thru 36mm tubes) 35-9412 40mm (for 37 thru 40mm tubes) 35-9413 43mm (for 41 thru 43mm tubes) 35-9414 46mm (for 44 thru 46mm tubes) 35-1964 35-8579 35-7995 DAMPER ROD HOLDERS Holds damper rod when disassembling forks. 35-8578 Yamaha front forks, 43mm Kayaba YZ125/250 (1988) YZ490 (88-90) 35-8579 Yamaha YZ125/250 with UD(upside down) forks FORK DAMPER ROD TOOLS Sold each. 35-7995 Combination Fork Damper Tool Designed to hold the damper rod during assembly & disassembly of Honda XR400′s or Suzuki DR-Z400S. One end features spanner type prongs for the XR400 and the other a 27mm hex for Suzuki. 35-1964 Combination Damper Rod Fork Tool Designed for assembly and disassembly of most inverted Kayaba and Showa 41mm, 43mm, 46, and 47mm forks. Use one end for Kayaba forks and the other for Showa forks. (not required for 91-92 Honda CR models) ROD HOLDER Double sided damper rod holder. Works on Kayaba U.D (upside down) 41mm forks. 35-8580 Yamaha YZ125/250Amodels (89-90) FRONT FORK CAP SOCKET Designed to remove and install Yamaha front fork caps with female hex head. Sold each. 35-8571 14mm female socket 35-8573 19mm female socket FORK DAMPER ROD HOLDERS Holds damper rod when disassembling and assembling front forks. 35-8576 Use for Yamaha 43mm Kayaba forks, 30mm hex YZ125 (84-87), YZ250 (81-87) IT250 (1983) YZ490 (82-87) 35-8577 Use for Yamaha 38mm Kayaba forks, 24mm hex YZ125 (81-83), IT175 (82-83), IT250 (81-82) YZ250 (77-80), YZ400 (77-79), IT465 (81-82) FORK CAP WRENCH Designed to remove the front fork caps on late model Honda CR’s and Suzuki RM’s. Can also be used for adjusting compression. One end of wrench is 49mm, the other is 50mm. Sold each. 35-7803 Fork Cap Wrench 35-8576 35-8577 35-8571 35-8573 6 Point Hex 35-8578
Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 10-03-2011
INSTALLATION 1. See Figure 1. Remove stock capscrews (4) and stock shifter rod (2). Discard stock capscrews. 2. See Figure 2 and Table 2. Loosen the lock nuts (5) and turn the rod ends on the new aluminum shifter rod (1) to match the length of the stock shifter rod. 3. See Figure 2 and Table 2. Slide longer capscrew (3) through the front rod end of new shifter rod (1). Place rod on the outside of the lever assembly. Thread capscrew (3) into the lever assembly. 4. Slide shorter capscrew (2) through the rear rod end of new shifter rod (1). Place rod on the outside of the transmission shift lever. Thread capscrew (2) into the transmission shift lever. 5. Tighten capscrews to 10-15 ft-lbs (13.6-20.3 N-m) . 6. Firmly tighten the lock nuts (5) against the rod ends to 20- 24 ft-lbs (27.1-32.5 Nm) . 1 4 2 4 3 is05394 1. Lever assembly 2. Shifter rod 3. Transmission shift lever 4. Capscrew Figure 1. Shift Linkage Components
Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 07-04-2012
1. Support the motorcycle so the front wheel is off the ground. Next remove the front wheel and fender. Remove the fork cap nuts and loosen the lower triple clamp pinch bolts. Remove the front brake caliper. Some models have a tapered end to the fork tube. Extra effort will be required to remove the tube from the crown. Loosen the top fork cap 1 to 2 revolutions. Use a soft wood block or similar tool (that will not mark fork cap finish) and tap down with mallet to loosen fork tube from its tapered fit in top steering crown. Make sure fork pinch bolts are loose. To completely remove fork of this style, unscrew the fork cap entirely. 2. Slide both fork assemblies out of the triple clamps. Unscrew the top fork tube plugs. Remove the plugs and fork springs. CAUTION: Fork caps are under spring pressure and could cause serious injury. Drain the fork oil by turning the fork assemblys upside-down. 3. Next, bottom the fork tube into the fork leg. DO NOT extend the tube while you remove the allen bolt on the bottom of the fork leg. Turn the assembly upside-down and shake the damper rod and rebound spring out of the fork assembly. Again, DO NOT extend the tube during this. Extending the tube could dislodge the internal bottoming cone, which fits on the end of the damping rod, making it very difficult to reinstall the damper rod without complete fork disassembly. 4. FOR 1″ REDUCTION IN FORK LENGTH: You must first measure the length of the O.E.M. rebound spring. Depending on the model of the motorcycle, the length will either be 1″ or 2″ long. A. If you currently have a 1″ rebound spring, you need to replace it with the 2″ long LA Choppers rebound spring (included in the kit), then reinstall the damper rod in the fork tube. B. If you currently have a 2″ rebound spring, you will need to add the 1″ long spacer, then reinstall the damper rod in the fork tube.