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KYMCO MAXXER 300/ 250 MONGOOSE 300/ 250 SERVICE MANUAL

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Filed Under (Kymco) by admin on 26-10-2010

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apply or add designated greases and lubricants to the specified lubrication points. ÑAfter reassembly, check all parts for proper tightening and operation. ÑWhen two persons work together, pay attention to the mutual working safety. ÑDisconnect the battery negative (-) terminal before operation. ÑWhen using a spanner or other tools, make sure not to damage the motorcycle surface. ÑAfter operation, check all connecting points, fasteners, and lines for proper connection and installation. ÑWhen connecting the battery, the positive (+) terminal must be connected first. ÑAfter connection, apply grease to the battery terminals. ÑTerminal caps shall be installed securely. 1 . GENERAL INFORMATION 1-6 ATV 300/250 ÑIf the fuse is burned out, find the cause and repair it. Replace it with a new one according to the specified capacity. ÑAfter operation, terminal caps shall be installed securely. ÑWhen taking out the connector, the lock on the connector shall be released before operation. ÑHold the connector body when connecting or disconnecting it. ÑDo not pull the connector wire. ÑCheck if any connector terminal is bending, protruding or loose. Confirm Capacity 1 . GENERAL INFORMATION 1-7 ATV 300/250 ÑThe connector shall be inserted completely. ÑIf the double connector has a lock, lock it at the correct position. ÑCheck if there is any loose wire

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SR-C400 Motorcycle Security System INSTALLATION MANUAL AND USER'S GUIDE

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 29-01-2011

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Routing the Antenna Wire The MCM includes an 18″ antenna wire. The first 12″ is a coaxial wire; the remaining 6″ is the reception antenna wire. When routing, try to avoid running the antenna along or near metal. For best performance, have the antenna wire as vertical as possible and exposed. Wire Connections The system includes one harness (HAR-1a) that connects directly into the MCM. The harness is split into three plugs: one for the GEN-1a connector, one for the optional SN-5 connector and one for the data output for future expansion. Note: Each plug is unique and will only fit the appropriate component one way. Main Harness Note: If the optional factory connector kit is being used, please disregard this section of the instructions and refer to the instructions supplied with the factory connector kit. The main harness consists of two harnesses. One is labeled (HAR-1a) and the second is labeled (GEN-1a). Plug in the white 4 pin connector from the (HAR-1a) into the matching 4 pin connector from the (GEN-1a). The (HAR-1a) also has a waterproof connector that plugs into the MCM. The wires should be connected as follows: HAR-1a Black wire with fuse and ring terminal – To battery Positive (+). GEN-1a Black wire – To ground (-). Orange wire – To tail light wire or any other wire that is hot (+) when ignition is ON (NOTE: this is an input to the alarm this connection is not designed to flash the tail light). Color Codes: Ground (-) Tail Light Honda Green wire Brown wire Kawasaki Black wire Red wire Suzuki Black/White Brown wire Yamaha Black wire Blue wire Harley Davidson Black wire Blue wire

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1982-2005 Harley Motorcycle Removal and Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 31-03-2012

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” bolt from the mounting stem on the Signal® mirror. While seated on the motorcycle, position the Signal® mirror on the handle bar. Secure the Signal® mirror to the handle bar using the 5/ 16 ” bolt. Make sure the bolt is tight! Guide the Signal® mirror wire harness into the cowling by going along side the existing factory wire harness. 4 Remove any slack in the wire harness. Secure the wire harness to the handle bar using a supplied tie wrap. 5 6 Adjust the position of the Signal® mirror and tighten the ball retention screws. Remove the motorcycle seat. Remove the aft mounting bolts on the fuel tank. 7 Guide the Signal® mirror wire harness along the inside of the fuel tank’s front mounting bolt and between the crossover tube. 8 9 Lift up the aft portion of the fuel tank and guide the Signal® mirror wire harness down the backbone of the motorcycle frame, alongside the existing factory wire harness. The motorcycle’s electrical wiring for turn indicators is located aft of the gas tank on the backbone of the frame. Guide the new wire harness from the Signal® mirror to the electrical wiring. Cut off any excess slack in the wire. Locate the SOLID BROWN wire from the wire connector. Turn the ignition key so that electrical power is on and activate the right side turn indicator. Probe the wire with the wire tester to verify that flashing turn indicator power is present. Label that wire as ‘right side turn’. Repeat all of the previous steps to replace the left side factory mirror with the new Signal® mirror. Locate the SOLID VIOLET wire from the wire connector. Activate the left side turn indicator and probe the wire with the wire tester to verify that flashing turn indicator power is present. Label that wire as ‘left side turn

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BMW R1200GS Dual Function LED Running Lights and Flashing Brake Lights installation instructions

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Filed Under (BMW) by admin on 08-11-2010

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The flasher is set to flash continuously as long as the brake is applied. To convert to a 5 second flash and then stay solid while the brake is applied, cut the green wire loop on the flasher. Use electrical tape to protect and secure the green wires to the other wires. 2. Remove the rider’s seat. Locate the wire bundle that starts at the rear of the motorcycle. At the most accessible spot carefully remove 3″ to 3½” of protective wire loom. I know, I know…it’s really beautifully done. Cowboy up! Take it off! 3. Mount the flasher in a location that will not crimp wires or interfere with the other bike assemblies. Locate the +12 volt wire ( GRAY wire with BLACK stripe and YELLOW banding) from the brake light Attach the kit RED wire to the brake light positive wire using one of the Posi-Tap connectors in the kit. 4. Locate the Ground wire ( BROWN wire) from the brake light. Attach the kit BLACK wire to the motorcycle ground wire using a Posi-Tap connector. 5. If you have a Fuse Block with ignition switched relay installed, route the Hyper-Lite GRAY wire to a fused circuit on the (relay activated) fuse block . 6. If you do not have a Fuse Block installed, find the alarm circuit connector under the seat . The alarm circuit has a rectangular connector and five wires, White with Black stripe; White with Brown stripe; Red with White; Brown with White; and Green with White stripe. Use a Posi-Tap to attach the Hyper-Lite GRAY wire to the green wire with white stripe. Pull the wire loom back from the wire. Tap into the wire with the Posi-Tap provided. . 7. If using the Hyper-Lite License Plate Mounting bracket, install it now. OR: Clean the side facing reflectors at the rear of the bike with alcohol. Mount the LED modules vertically on the reflectors so that the LEDs point straight back. Press in place for about 5 seconds. The tape can be used only once! If you goof, new tape is required. 8. Route the BLUE and BROWN wires from the flasher and the LED modules. Trim the Blue and Brown wires to remove any excess wire . Use a Posi-Twist to connect the 3 BLUE wires together. Use a Posi-Twist to connect the 3 BROWN wires together. (see Posi-Twist Connector instructions)

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2002-2005 Honda VFR800/A Wire Harness Replacement Manual

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 21-04-2011

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If the 18P (light blue) connector is in abnormal condition as shown below, contact TechLine at (800) 421-1900, option 9. FRONT SUB-HARNESS REPLACEMENT 1. Remove the front sub-harness from the cowl stay hooks. Disconnect all the electrical components from the front sub-harness. 2. Temporarily set the main wire harness aside, and disconnect the 6P (natural) con- nector. Then, carefully remove the front sub-harness. 3. Install the new front sub-harness by con- necting the 14P (natural) and 18P (light blue) connectors. NOTE: For routing specifications, refer to the WIRING & HARNESS ROUTING SECTION on pages 7-8. 4. Attach the front sub-harness on the cowl stay hooks. Make sure the front sub-harness is routed elow the main sub-harness. ABNORMAL CONDITION STAY HOOKS 6P (NATURAL) CONNECTOR FRONT UB-HARNESS 14P (NATURAL) CONNECTOR 18P (LIGHT BLUE) CONNECTOR FRONT SUB-HARNESSSTAY HOOK Page 4 VFR800/A #4 4 of 12 NOVEMBER 2007 5. Place the front sub-harness between the radiator and the frame, and below the rec- tifier. Be careful not to damage the front sub-harness or other components. 6. Re-connect the front sub-harness to the 6P (natural) connector. 7. Secure the main wire harness and the front sub-harness using the longer wire band. 8. Secure the main wire harness and the upper side of the front sub-harness using the shorter wire band. Adjust the wire har- ness located within the frame and the radi- ator hose accordingly. 9. Secure the main wire harness fuse box to the front sub-harness using the shorter wire band. FRONT SUB-HARNESS STAY HOOK MAIN-HARNESS FRONT SUB-HARNESS FRONT SUB-HARNESS 6P CONNECTOR (Male) 6P CONNECTOR (Female) WIRE BAND (LONG) WIRE BAND (SHORT)
WIRE BAND (LONG) WIRE BAND (SHORT) MAIN WIRE HARNESS FUSE BO

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Kawasaki Ninja 250 FAQ

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 15-11-2010

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Am I too small for this motorcycle? Duke – Sun May 14 17:38:31 2000 I’m only about 5’2″ and don’t have a problem, even though I can only touch the ground with the ends of my toes. Once you get a feel for the balance of the bike it’s not hard to keep everything upright. Only place I have trouble is pushing the bike backwards in a parking lot. Usually I just walk the bike (beside it) to where I can get on and get going. How does the EX500 compare to the EX250? Craig M. – Mon May 22 10:23:29 2000 I have both the EX250 and the EX500; both are Y2K models. The 250 is a screamer that performs well and can easily get me into trouble. My only complaints about the 250 are the excessive nose dive when getting on the front brake hard and the skittishness of the rear during high speed cornering. Both are easily corrected with suspension adjustments, I’ve just been too lazy to get the parts and do the work. A bit more wind protection would be great too. The 500 addresses these problems, the diving of the front end (to a degree); the rear’s skittishness and the wind protection. A plus for the 500 is the greater torque and power off the line; it pulls stronger (in my opinion) and will get you into illegal speed territory just a bit quicker than the 250. With greater weight, is has more stability in high speed and windy situations. Insurance is just about the same for both, with the 250 getting the nod for gas mileage. Service requirements are almost identical for both as well, being that they’re both parallel twins, the technology is the virtually the same. The downfalls of the 500: $2K more than the 250 (can do a lot to the 250 with that kind of money); buzzy mirrors, barely useful; heavier weight to have to push around the garage; lesser gas mileage (55-60 MPG; 250 pushes 70 MPG easily); engine is worse than a nervous dog shaking around at idle and at speed (here the 250 is far superior and much smoother). In my opinion, the 500 is a better suited for a larger rider, from a comfort standpoint. I feel I can stretch out a bit more on it than the 250 (I’m 5′ 9″, 160 lbs). The 250′s brakes are better tuned than the 500 and the shifter is much smoother. That may be due to the 3,500 mile difference between the two bikes. Bottom line, both bikes are great, the 250 is now my wife’s ride (mainly) and the 500′s mine (unless she steals the keys away). In time, I’ll make the adjustments to the 250; she doesn’t push it like I do.

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DRAG SPECIALTIES MINI SPEEDOMETER WITH LED INDICATOR LIGHTS INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 29-01-2011

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1. Place the motorcycle on a level and secure area. Disconnect the battery. 2. Refer to the appropriate factory service manual and remove the OEM speedometer and indicator lights. The indicator lights usually unplug either in the rear of the headlight or under the gas tank area. 3. Mount the new speedometer in the desired location. 4. Locate the OEM wire for the high beam indicator light. Connect it with the blue wire from the wire harness on the speedometer. Connect the blue/black wire from the speedometer to ground. 5. Locate the OEM wire for the gauge illumination (back) lighting. Connect this wire to the orange wire on the speedometer. Connect the black wire on the speedometer to ground. 6. Locate the OEM wires for the turn signals. Usually they are brown and violet wires. NOTE: You will notice only one bulb for the turn signals in the gauge and two wires from the bike to the harness. If you connect both of these wires directly to the yellow wire on the speedometer, this will allow feedback and cause all the signals to flash at once. To prevent this, you will need to add a diode between each OEM turn signal wire and the yellow wire coming from the speedometer. We recommend that you utilize a Dyna tach adapter, Part #D-101, available separately. This tach adapter includes the diodes necessary to allow the turn signal indicator light to operate correctly. Follow the instructions for the tach adapter, substituting the wires from the original wire harness found in step 6 for the two ignition terminals shown in the wire schematic. Hook the white wire on the tach adapter to the yellow wire for the turn signal indicator on the speedometer. If you use the D-101 adapter, skip steps 7-9 and go directly to step 10. 7. Take one of the diodes, making sure to observe the correct polarity, and attach it to the brown turn signal wire on the bike. 8. Take the remaining diode, again making sure to observe the correct polarity, and attach it to the violet turn signal wire on the bike

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2008 KTM 250 SX-F 250 XC-F, XCF-W 250 EXC-F, EXC-F SIX DAYS INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (KTM) by admin on 22-10-2010

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Hand brake lever The hand brake lever [1] is mounted on the handlebars on the right and actuates the front wheel brake. The adjusting screw [A] can be used to change the basic position of the hand brake lever (see “Maintenance”). 1 A Short circuit button The short circuit button [2] turns off the engine. When pressing this button, the ignition circuit is short-circuited. 2 Headlamp switch (XCF-W) In this model the headlamp is switched on with the pull switch [5] . 5 Flasher switch The flasher switch is a separate unit and is mounted on the left portion of the handlebar. The wire harness is designed in a way that whenever you want to use your bike off-road, you can dismount the entire turn indicator system without affecting the function of the remaining electrical system. Flasher left Flasher right
OPERATION INSTRUMENTS » ENGLISH 7 1 2 3 4 5 Starter button Pushing the red starter button [1] will actuate the E-starter. Emergency OFF switch (EXC-F Australia) The red emergency-OFF switch [2] is arranged adjacent to the throttle grip. In this position, the E-starter is operational and the engine can be started. In this position, the E-starter and ignition circuits are interrupted.The E-starter cannot be actuated, and the engine will not start, not even if you attempt to start it with the kickstarter. Pushing the black starter button [3] will actuate the E-starter. Indicator lamps The green control lamp [4] flashes in the same rhythm as the flashing indicator when the indicator is working. The blue control lamp [5] lights up when the high beam is on. TEST All of the display segments briefly light up for the display function test. Electronic speedometer The display in the electronic speedometer is activated as soon as you press a button on the speedometer or an impulse is received from the wheel sensor. The display lights up when the engine is running. The display is cleared if no button is pressed for 1 minute or no impulse is received from the wheel sensor. The button is used to change between display modes. The + and – buttons are used to control various functions

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LED SHOW LIGHTING INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIOINS

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 27-12-2010

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1. The kit is supplied with 4 “cluster” lights that project a round flood lighting pattern and 4 “array” lights that have a narrow fan type pattern. Determine where you would like to mount the supplied lights, switch and wiring connections. You may want to hook up one of the lights with some long jumper wires connected to the battery and hold it in various places to see what will show off your bike best. The idea is to see the light reflected off your bike and not see the light fixture. 2. Mount the lights and switch using the supplied primer and 2-sided adhesive pad. Apply the primer to the backside of the lights and switch; let it dry for 5 minutes. Remove the protector from one side of the adhesive pad and apply. Apply the primer on the motorcycle where the lights and switch will be mounted and let it dry for 5 minutes. Remove the protector from the adhesive pad and mount the lights and switch. 3. Refer to the provided wiring diagram. The wiring is color-coded and connects in parallel. All of the black wires connect together through the BLACK wire of the 2 conductor black jacketed wire (Ground Wires). All of the colored wires connect together through the RED wire of the 2 conductor black jacketed wire (Power Wires). Connections may be soldered, crimped with solderless connectors, or twisted together. 4. Measure and cut the supplied 2-conductor black-jacketed wire to the lengths that are needed to connect the lights and switch. When routing the wire from any lights that you have mounted to the front make sure you have provided enough slack at the steering head to be able to turn the front wheel full left and full right without damaging the lights or wires. Also be sure the wire is at least æ” from any exhaust pipe. 5. Join each connection and cover with the supplied heat shrink tubing. NOTE; All wire connections must be insulated. Cut a piece of the provided heat shrink tubing long enough to cover the connection completely. 6. Connect one wire from the switch to the RED wire of the lights with one of the supplied blue butt connectors. Connect the second wire from the switch to one wire from the fuse holder with the other blue butt connector. Connect the second wire from the fuse holder to the positive (+) battery terminal using one of the supplied fork connectors. 7. Connect the BLACK wire of the lights using the other fork connector to a ground connection. (The negative (-) battery terminal or motorcycle frame.) 8. Secure all loose wires by using the supplied cable ties. Check the front wheel again to be sure there is enough wire slack for turning.

HI-4 DUAL FIRE MOTORCYCLE IGNITION INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 09-11-2010

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Turn ignition switch off and disconnect battery ground cable. 2. Refer to Figure 3. Remove OE ignition module and wire harness (items 1-4). You will disconnect two wires at the coil (15), a wire going to the VOES (Vacuum Operated Electrical Switch) (18), a black ground wire at the ignition module, and the 3 pin plug (20) that connects to the sensor plate (11). Refer to shop manual for locations. 3. Remove ignition cover plates and gasket (items 5- 9). This will require drilling out two rivets. The rivets will later be replaced with two supplied self- threading screws. 4. In order to remove the sensor plate cable, the cable plug (20) must be removed first. Use needle nose pliers to pull the terminals out of the plug. Then pull the cable through the exit hole at the bottom of the timing cover. 5. Note location of sensor plate (11). There is a V notch in the sensor plate used for alignment. When you install the HI-4, you should align the V notch in the same location. This should set the timing close enough to start the engine. Remove and save the two standoffs and washers (10). Remove the sensor plate (11). HI-4 INSTALLATION Refer to Figure 4. The HI-4 requires use of the OE timing rotor P/N 32402-83 (used only on 1985 and newer models). If you have an older model or are not sure, check the rotor (9) for the correct part number. For models prior to 1980, use the supplied 10-32 x ¾”bolt and washer to mount the rotor. 1. Install the HI-4 system in place of the OE breaker or sensor plate. Rotate the HI-4 about 90 degrees to give better access to the cable exit hole. Install the HI-4 first, then push the cable through the hole. On some early models it may be necessary to enlarge the wire harness exit hole in the gear cover. Align the V notch on the HI-4 same as the OE plate you removed. Use the OE standoffs to secure the HI-4. You must use lockwashers under the standoffs for proper clearance between the HI-4 and cover plate. Do not fully tighten the standoffs until the timing has been set. 2. Route the HI-4 wire harness along the frame rails up to the coil. Make sure that harness will not be chafed or burned by exhaust heat. Secure harness with tie wraps. Do not install timing cover. HI-4 HOOKUP Crimp terminals and hardware are supplied for your convenience. Use the ring terminals for coil hookup. Use male-female quick disconnects for connections to the tach and vacuum switch (VOES). Tape up any unused wires. 1. Circuit Breaker Cover Screws (2) 2. Circuit Breaker Cover 3. Circuit Breaker Cover Gasket 4. Breaker Plate Screws (2) 5. Breaker Plate Screw Lockwashers & Washers (2 each) 6. Retainer (1971 to early 1972) 7. Circuit Breaker Cam Bolt 8. Breaker Plate Assembly 9. Breaker Cam 10. Advance Assembly 11. Gear Case Cover 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 NOTE: Damage will result if the brown tach wire comes in contact with +12V. Figure 1. Harley-Davidson®OE Points System
9000-4002A REV A 3 2/05 1. Identify switched +12 volt wire and tach wire (if equipped) going to the coil. Refer to your service manual, or reconnect the battery and use a test light or voltmeter. The switched +12 volt wire will be hot when the ignition key is turned on. 2. Refer to Figure 5. Connect the HI-4 red wire and switched +12 volt wire to Coil positive. 3. The HI-4 white wire is not used and should be taped. 4. Connect the HI-4 black wire to the Coil negative terminal. 5. Connect the HI-4 green wire to the vacuum switch (Figure 3, item 18), if used. 6. Connect the HI-4 brown wire to the tach wire, if equipped with tach. Tape up if unused. 7. The HI-4 is grounded via the timing housing; a separate ground connection is not required. 8. Reconnect battery ground cable. Verify proper ground connections to the frame and engine. VOES HOOKUP The OE vacuum switch (VOES) is normally an open circuit. Above 3-5 inch-Hg vacuum, the VOES closes and grounds the vacuum input on the OE ignition module. This increases the total advance generated by the OE ignition module. Vacuum advance improves part throttle 17 16 1. Cover Screws (2) 2. Ignition Timer Cover 3. Ignition Module 4. Timer Plate Screws (2) 5. Washers (2) 6. Screws & Washers (2 each) 7. Shield 8. Sensor 9. Trigger Rotor Bolt 10. Timer Plate 11. Trigger Rotor 12. Advance Assembly 13. Gear Case Cover 14. Ignition Coil 15. Spark Plug Wires (2) 16. Ignition Coil Terminal (FX) 17. Ignition Coil Terminal (FL) 15 14 13 12 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 NOTE: Most motorcycle coils do not have terminals marked. Use either terminal for Coil+ (positive) and the other one for Coil- (negative). Warning: The HI-4 (8-1100) Dual Fire ignition will not work with 2 plugs per head, dual coil application. Damage will result if attempted. Use the HI-4 (8-2100) single fire ignition for 2 plugs per head applications

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