location of idle and air screw on a 2009 taotao 250

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KTM 250/ 300/ 380 SX,MXC,EXC ENGINE REPAIR MANUAL

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Filed Under (KTM) by admin on 12-11-2010

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Repair manual KTM 250 / 300 / 380 Art No 3206004 -E 2-2C main jet jet needle jet needle air control screw idle adjusting screw idle jet throttle valve Idling range A Operation with closed throttle valve. This range is influenced by the position of the air control screw 1 and the idle adjusting screw 2 . Only make adjustments when the engine is hot. To this end, slightly increase the idling speed of the engine by means of the idle adjusting screw. Turning it clockwise produces a higher idling speed and turning the screw counterclockwise produces a lower idling speed. Create a round and stable engine speed using the air control screw (basic position of the air control screw = open by 1.5 turns). Then adjust to the normal idling speed by means of the idle adjusting screw. Opening up B Engine behavior when the throttle opens. The idle jet and the shape of the throttle valve influences this range. If, despite good idling-speed and part-throttle setting, the engine sputters and smokes when the throttle is fully opened and develops its full power not smoothly but suddenly at high engine speeds, the mixture to the carburetor will be too rich, the fuel level too high or the float needle is leaking. Part-throttle range C Operation with partly open throttle valve. This range is only influenced by the jet needle (shape and position). The optimum part-throttle setting is controlled by the idling setting in the lower range and by the main jet in the upper range. If the engine runs on a four-stroke cycle or with reduced power when it is accelerated with the throttle partly open, the jet needle must be lowered by one notch. If then the engine pings, especially when accelerating under full power at maximum engine revs, the jet needle should be raised. If these faults should occur at the lower end of the part throttle range at a four-stroke running, make the idling range leaner; if the engine pings, adjust the idling range richer. Full throttle range D Operation with the throttle fully open (flat out). This range is influenced by the main jet and the jet needle. If the porcelain of the new spark plug is found to have a very bright or white coating or if the engine rings, after a short distance of riding flat out, a larger main jet is required. If the porcelain is dark brown or black with soot the main jet must be replaced by a smaller one. mixture too rich: too much fuel in proportion to air mixture too lean: not enough fuel in proportion to air 1 2 OPERATING RANGES OF THE CARBURETOR 2-3C Carburetor adjustment Basic information on the original carburetor setting The original carburetor setting was adapted for an altitude of approx. 500 meters (1600 ft.) above sea level, and the ambient temperature of approx. 20°C (68°F), mainly for off-road use and central European premium-grade fuel (ROZ 95 MOZ). Mixing ratio 2-stroke motor oil : super fuel 1:40 – 1:60. Basic information on a change of the carburetor setting Always start out from the original carburetor setting. Essential requirements are a clean air filter system, air-tight exhaust system and an intact carburetor. Experience has shown that adjusting the main jet, the idling jet and the jet needle is sufficient and that changes of other parts of the carburetor will not greatly affect engine performance. RULE OF THUMB:

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2009 Kawasaki ULTRA 250X/ 260X FUEL INJECTION CONTROLLERS And REGULATORS INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 25-10-2010

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The R&D high performance Air Filter Kit will improve acceleration and top speed performance by increasing air flow and reducing air temperatures that enter directly into the Ultra 250X’s air plenum box area. The O.E.M. air plenum box on the Ultra 250X is a great design that will flow plenty of air. However, the air that feeds the plenum box is heated by the engine. R&D has created an easy to install “flat filter” that installs directly in place of the large center access inspection cover located directly under the main glove box. The R&D Flat Air Filter insert will allow unrestricted fresh and cool air to enter the air plenum box area which will add power you can feel and a nice high performance tone. The R&D Performance Filter Kit also features two filters, one for each of the surge and blowoff protections valves. The O.E.M. surge valve recycles compressed hot air back into the air box plenum at idle and under deceleration conditions. The R&D surge and blowoff valve filter kit removes the air recycling hoses which will keep the hot air from entering the air plenum box reducing the engines intake air temperatures. The R&D Ultra 250X Air Filter Kit offers great performance tips on how to remove the restrictive air vent hoses which will further reduce the under seat ambient air temperatures. The R&D Filter system does not remove or alter the O.E.M. plenum box in any way, therefore there are no questions to be answered regarding water ingestion

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Victory Freedom Engines Installation Instructions for S&S Air Cleaner Kit

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Filed Under (Victory) by admin on 31-10-2010

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1-Locate and remove the Intake Air Temperature Sensor (IATS) from the stock Polaris Victory air box. Locate the new position for the IATS on the bottom of the S&S air cleaner. Push the IATS in the lower air cleaner cover and turn1⁄ 4 turnin either direction, make sure you feel it lock into place. Inspect from the inside of the air cleaner to ensure that the barbs are locked into place. See Picture 1. 2-Using the stock Polaris Victory air box gasket (PN 5811908) and S&S supplied (Qty 4) M6 fasteners, assemble the lower air cleaner cover to the throttle body using 243 Blue Loctite®on the treads. Torque the M6 fasteners to 72-96 inch pounds. 3-Position the S&S pre-formed air filter onto the lower air cleaner cover ensuring that it fits into the machined groove. 4-Install the top air cleaner cover on top of the filter ensuring that it fits into the machined groove. 5-Make surethat the filter is situated in the machined grooves on both the top and bottom air cleaner covers. 6-Using 243 Blue Loctite on the threads of the S&S supplied (Qty 3) M6 fasteners tighten down top air cleaner cover evenly until seated. Finish torque the fasteners to 72-96 inch pounds. Now you’re ready for breather hose and barometric pressure hose routing. 7-Locate the S&S supplied 3⁄ 16 “reinforced hose and clamps. Push one end of the hose on the 3⁄ 16 “brass barb in the bottom air cleaner cover and slide clamp up around the end of the hose. The other end of the hose is for the Barometric Pressure Sensor (MAP). Route the hose towardthe back of the engine over the top of the rear rocker cover. 8-Remove the MAP sensor from the stock Polaris Victory air box. Remove the orange rubber gasket from the MAP sensor. Slide the S&S supplied clamp over the 3⁄ 16 “rubber hose that leads to the air cleaner. Push the barbed end of the MAP sensor into the 3⁄ 16 ” rubber hose and slide clamp up to the end of the hose around the barb. A small amount of lubricant may be applied to the barb on the MAP sensor to make installation easier. 2 S&S Air Cleaner Assembly 41-0021 (Calibration cardnot shown) Picture 1 CAUTION WARNING WARNING Plastic barb locked in recess.
9-Assemble and install breather hose as follows: A-Cut the stock Victory®hose on the straight section just behind the 90 degree bend as shown in Picture 2 . B-Slide an S&S supplied 1⁄ 2 “hose clamp over the modified stock breather hose. C-Install the S&S straight barb in Victory breather hose and position a hose clamp around hose end. D-Slide the 90-degree end of breather hose over the brass barb on the air cleaner cover and slide hose clamp in place. E-Position straight end of the S&S breather hose over the 1⁄ 2 “barb to connect to the Victory hose. Slide clamp over connection. F- See Pictures 3 and 4 for breather hose and barometric pressuresensor hose installation positions. NOTE: S&S breather hose can be cut for best fit

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S&S Super E and G Series "Shorty" Carburetors REMOVAL, Installation and Jetting Instructions

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Filed Under (S&S) by admin on 29-10-2010

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Remove Old Carburetor WARNINGS ● Gasoline is extremely flammable and explosive under certain conditions. Do not smoke around gasoline. Gasoline fumes are toxic when inhaled. Perform installation in a well ventilated area away from open flames or sparks. Any gasoline leak or spill constitutes a health and fire hazard. ● If motorcycle has been running, wait until engine and exhaust have cooled to avoid getting burned during installation. ● Electrical sparks can ignite explosive gasoline fumes. Failure to disconnect battery while working on motorcycle can also result in inadvertent engagement of starter and personal injury. A. Shut off fuel petcock and disconnect battery. B. Remove air cleaner assembly. Drain fuel from existing carburetor. Remove carburetor, manifold, choke cable and any carburetor mounting hardware NOTE – Removing and tightening hard to reach Allen bolts such as carb-manifold mounting bolts and V2 manifold flange bolts can be greatly simplified by the use of Allen ball-end drivers. These tools are available at most automotive and tool supply houses. See Picture 9. Additionally, Performance Plus of Evansville, Indiana, produces a hex wrench specially modified for accessibility of V 2 manifold bolts. Call 812-963-8854 for further information. As alternative, standard hex wrench can be shortened for convenience. NOTE – Some Buell motorcycles have a breather fitting with 90° elbow on rear head. Due to proximity of frame, elbow must be removed before fitting can be taken off engine. Loosen fitting and rotate to position convenient for cutting elbow. Secure fitting by tightening against cylinder head. Elbow may be inaccessible to hacksaw. In most instances, a die grinder with cutoff wheel will remove elbow with little difficulty. If die grinder is unavailable, grasp elbow firmly with pliers and snap off, then remove fitting. CAUTION – Extreme care must be taken to prevent metal chips from entering engine when elbow is removed. S&S recommends packing breather fitting with gease before removing elbow. Metal chips inside engine will cause extensive damage. Installer bears all responsibility for containment of chips and other debris. Picture 2 Picture 4 Picture 3
5 2. Prepare Air Cleaner Backplate NOTE – Fast idle lever screws, part #11-2384, must not be overtightened. Loctite or other thread locking compound may be used sparingly on threads to prevent screws from vibrating loose. CAUTION – Overtightening fast idle screws may damage backplate. A. All engines except V2s 1. Knuckles & Pans, 1936 to 1965 – Press plugs, part #50-8312, into holes in air cleaner backplate. See Picture 2 . 2. Shovels, 1966 to 1979, and Ironhead (IH) XLs, 1957 to 1979 – Press plug, part #50-8312, into hole in air cleaner backplate. See Picture 3 . 3. Shovels 1980 to 1984 and IH XLs 1980 to 1985 – Screw crankcase breather vent elbow fitting, part #50-8110, into hole in air cleaner backplate and angle downward as shown in Picture 4 . On 1983 and 1984 Shovels press plug, part #50-8312, into other hole on left. 4. Assemble fast idle mechanism as shown in Figure A . B. FL V2s 1984 to 1992 1. Press plug, part #50-8312, into hole on left in air cleaner backplate as shown in Picture 5 . 2. Screw vent hose elbow fitting, part #50-8110, into remaining hole at right. See Picture 5 . 3. Assemble fast idle mechanism as shown in Figure A . C. XL V2s 1986 to 1990 1. Press plug, part #50-8312, into hole on right in air cleaner backplate as shown in Picture 6 . 2. Screw vent hose nipple fitting, part #50-8111, into remaining hole at left. See Picture 6 . Elbow fitting, part #50-8110, supplied in kit may also be used in this location if required. 3. Assemble fast idle mechanism as shown in Figure A . D. FL V2s 1993 and up and XL V2s 1991 and up 1. Press plugs, part #50-8312, into both holes in air cleaner backplate as shown in Picture 7 . 2. Assemble fast idle mechanism as shown in Figure A . E. Buell motorcycles, 1994 and up 1. Assemble fast idle mechanism as shown in Figure A. 3. Throttle Preparation NOTE – Throttle grip assembly must be assembled correctly and work freely to prevent possible sticking during operation. Throttle must snap closed when released. Cable routing must be free of tight bends to minimize friction between cable and housing

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Air Shock Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 24-11-2010

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Air HoseInstallation. Choose the most convenient loca- tiononyour motorcycle for the air fill valve. Drilla 5/16″hole and install the air fill valve as shown in Figure 3orsecure air fill valve to frame tube. 2. Keep hose ends clean during installation because dirt can cause air leaks. 3. Install hose connector, tube clamp and two O-rings onto one end of the air hose (See Figures4&5) Apply rubber lubricant (soap solution, not oil) to the O-rings to ease installation on the air hose& into the shock absorber inlet. Plastic connector should just bottom on fitting. Do not overtighten! The function of the nut is to hold everything together in place, the O- rings do the sealing. Fin- gertightenonly (10 in/lb maximum). 4. After routing the air hose, trim the length to fit air fill valve. Install hose connector, tube clamp, and twoO-rings onto end of hose (See figures 4&5). Lubricate as above and assemble to air fill valve. Use the same procedure formating hose. Important —leaveasmall amount of slack in hose near shock absorber to allow for the slight move- mentofthe shock. Caution! Do not install hose near ex- haustsystem, battery or any other sharp edges or seat movement. Keep hoses clear of moving parts such as wheels or suspension components. Do not allow hoses to have excess slack and sag below the motorcycle. The hoses could catch on road surfaces or debris and could be damaged while the motorcycle is in motion. 5. If necessary the air hose can be secured along the motorcycle’swiringharness with tie-wraps. 6. Testing: Inflate system to 50 psi. Apply soapy water solution to all connections and check for air leaks. If there are any leaks, disconnect the suspected fitting and check for dirt or damage to the air line or the O-rings. Remove any dirt or foreign matter, re-lubricate the O-rings and reinstall. If unable to locate the leak, remove rubber boot from shocks and submerge pressurized components under water (in- cludingT-Valve) and check for leaks. If you cannot solve the air leak problem, please contact our technical staff for assistance

How To Adjust the Accelerator Pump On the 40mm Mikuni Carburetor

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 21-01-2012

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1) The “blue” colored screw in the image is the duration adjustment screw. Underneath the head of the screw is a lock nut and the bracket arm that the screw is threaded into. To decrease the amount of fuel squirted the adjustment screw is turned “clockwise” or in. To increase the amount of fuel squirted the adjustment screw is turned “counter clockwise” or out. To get the max, amount of decrease remove the screw and take the lock nut off of the screw. Then replace the screw into the cam arm, then replace the lock nut underneath the arm on the screw. this gives you another 3/32″ of an inch in which the screw can be screwed in.
2) Turn the adjustment screw fully clockwise or IN. Start your engine, Blip your throttle open, if the engine stutters, (hesitates), it is not getting enough fuel so turn the screw counter clockwise to increase the amount of fuel squirted from the accelerator pump into the carburetor. Keep blipping the throttle and adjusting the screw till the carburetor starts to cough. Stop here and turn the screw back in till the coughing stops. Tighten down the lock nut. This should give you the best throttle response with the least amount of coughing and backfiring out the carburetor. Timing Adjustment Screw This is the “Green” colored screw just above the Blue duration adjustment screw. The” Mucker” said it best,,,,, This upper screw adjusts the “timing” of the squirt. By altering it’s setting, you can advance or delay the onset of the fuel squirt. But probably, it won’t have to be touched

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Kawasaki Ninja 250 FAQ

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 15-11-2010

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Am I too small for this motorcycle? Duke – Sun May 14 17:38:31 2000 I’m only about 5’2″ and don’t have a problem, even though I can only touch the ground with the ends of my toes. Once you get a feel for the balance of the bike it’s not hard to keep everything upright. Only place I have trouble is pushing the bike backwards in a parking lot. Usually I just walk the bike (beside it) to where I can get on and get going. How does the EX500 compare to the EX250? Craig M. – Mon May 22 10:23:29 2000 I have both the EX250 and the EX500; both are Y2K models. The 250 is a screamer that performs well and can easily get me into trouble. My only complaints about the 250 are the excessive nose dive when getting on the front brake hard and the skittishness of the rear during high speed cornering. Both are easily corrected with suspension adjustments, I’ve just been too lazy to get the parts and do the work. A bit more wind protection would be great too. The 500 addresses these problems, the diving of the front end (to a degree); the rear’s skittishness and the wind protection. A plus for the 500 is the greater torque and power off the line; it pulls stronger (in my opinion) and will get you into illegal speed territory just a bit quicker than the 250. With greater weight, is has more stability in high speed and windy situations. Insurance is just about the same for both, with the 250 getting the nod for gas mileage. Service requirements are almost identical for both as well, being that they’re both parallel twins, the technology is the virtually the same. The downfalls of the 500: $2K more than the 250 (can do a lot to the 250 with that kind of money); buzzy mirrors, barely useful; heavier weight to have to push around the garage; lesser gas mileage (55-60 MPG; 250 pushes 70 MPG easily); engine is worse than a nervous dog shaking around at idle and at speed (here the 250 is far superior and much smoother). In my opinion, the 500 is a better suited for a larger rider, from a comfort standpoint. I feel I can stretch out a bit more on it than the 250 (I’m 5′ 9″, 160 lbs). The 250′s brakes are better tuned than the 500 and the shifter is much smoother. That may be due to the 3,500 mile difference between the two bikes. Bottom line, both bikes are great, the 250 is now my wife’s ride (mainly) and the 500′s mine (unless she steals the keys away). In time, I’ll make the adjustments to the 250; she doesn’t push it like I do.

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KAWASAKI 1500 CARB THUNDER Air Filter Kit Installation And removal Instruction

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 25-10-2010

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1) Remove Seat 10mm KAW 1500 CARB ADPTOR QTY PARTS LIST 1 1500 CARB ADAPTOR 1 3″ PIECE OF HOSE 1 DOUBLE BARB 1 L-BARB 1 3/8″ RED PLUG 1 ¼” BLACK VACCUM PLUG 1 M6-1 NYLON INSERT LOCK NUT 3 M6-1 X 16 FLAT SOCKET HD CAP SCREW 1 170 MJ 1 INSTRUCTIONS 2) Remove Dash Plaque 8mm bottom Bolt only 3) Lift from bottom then Remove speedo cable 4) Disconnect Electric Plugs 5) Remove 12mm bolts holding tank 6) Turn petcock OFF – Pinch off fuel line. 7) Disconnect the electric Plug under speedo opening 8) Lift Tank at Rear – Disconnect two Vent Lines; Fuel gage Vent will Pull up – Remove. 9) Remove Chrome Air Cover. 10) Left side Remove two screws – 10mm bolt in side Air box. Pull hoses off Remove 1″ hose going to cross over Tube. 11) Remove two 8mm bolts on Bracket – Remove Bracket 12) Remove Screw on Top of air Box Snorkel 13) Remove both side covers 14) Remove air Backing plate right side (Crank Case Breather hose that connects to stock air box will connect to new) 15) Remove Bracket that holds Carb and holds Backing Plate 16) Take idle adjustable Knob loose – let hang loose 17) Take Choke Knob out of holding Bracket 18) Hose that went to cross over tube MAY BE PLUGGED OR VENTED your Choice (Fresh air unit) ** 98′S or any models with carb warmer should disconnect carb warmer by pinching off line on each side of connector that plugs into carb on bottom. Small bracket with one screw directly on the bottom of carb. 19) Loosen Clamp that holds Carb to intake Manifold, Carb will hang loose 20) Remove intake Manifold 5mm Allen- Remove crossover tube. 21) (- BE CAREFULL-) LINE IT UP RIGHT- Replace intake Manifold (YOU MAY TO SEAL THIS WITH A SEALER LIKE PERMATEX) ( BE SUPER CAREFUL TO KEEP INTAKE COVERED DURING EACH STEP. SCREWS CAN FALL ONTO INTAKE) 22) Drain Float Bowl 3mm allen – very bottom of carb 23) Remove Float Bowl 4 screws (#2 Phillips) let hang down 24) Remove main jet, if Emulsion tube comes out use 8mm and Flat tip to separate jet from Emulsion tube. 25) Install with new jet 26) CAREFULLY Reinstall Float Bowl Cover 27) If installing Needle Remove Top Cover of Carb, Carefully pull the slide out. ( BE CAREFUL WITH DIAPHRAM) Remove Spring + Needle Install new Needle (WE RECOMMEND THE 3RD CLIP FROM TOP WITH TWO WASHERS ON TOP. REINSTALL 28) Be sure to reseat diaphragm – BE CAREFUL Reinstall Cover. 29) Install Carb to Intake – reconnect carb warmer if applicable 30) Reattach idle adjustment 31) Reattach Choke 32) Reattach Bracket in front of Carb- 33) Take Center bolt mount Rubber Gromlet from Stock Air box Plate install in to new Air box Adapter use stock Bolt, Attach to Bracke

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MOUNTAIN BIKE AIR SHOCK SET-UP AND TUNING GUIDE

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 01-12-2010

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DETAILED SET-UP 2. Installing Air Pressure – Remove the air cap from the Schrader valve on the end of the shock body. Attach the pump to the Schrader valve. Some people damage their pumps by screwing them on too far. As soon as the gauge registers pressure, screw 1/2 turn more and pump to the desired level. Use the release button on the pump to reduce air pressure. The hiss you hear when unscrewing the pump is only the air from the pump and not from the shock! Likewise, when you install the pump again, you will also hear a hiss as air from the shock fills the pump and reduces the registered pressure you previously installed. All perfectly normal when pressurizing the shock! After removing the pump, be sure to reinstall the Schrader valve cap. If the shock does not dampen properly after pressurizing, the air pressure may have been lost during pump removal as a result of a worn pump fitting o-ring that needs replacement. Do not ride the bike until the shock is properly pressurized. 3. Main Air Spring Pressure Adjustments – Air Spring adjustments are made by inflating or deflating the main air spring chamber. Since your IFP air pressure adjustment (outlined above) also affects your starting spring force, you should always adjust your IFP pressure before adjusting the main air spring pressure. You can refer to the online Quick Start guide at: www.progressivesuspension.com/literature.html for accurate main air spring pressure and sag settings matched to your bike model and body

Triumph Bonneville America And Speedmaster The Freak Installation Instructions and Parts List

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Filed Under (Triumph) by admin on 29-10-2010

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INSTALLATION In order to install The Freak, the factory air-box must be removed. Because of it’s design, the factory air-box is not an item that is easily removed. There are several parts that must be removed in order to get the air-box out of the bike in one piece. We recommend using the following method to remove your air box without having to cut it into smaller pieces in order to get it out of the frame. 1. PARTS REMOVAL In order to gain access to the air-box, it is necessary to remove certain parts of the motorcycle to gain access to the air-box area of the frame. Removing the following parts should be the first steps you take. A. Seats – Remove both seats starting with the passenger pillion, if applicable. B. Side cover and grommets – Remove the plastic side cover on the right side (throttle side) of your motorcycle. This is the faux oil-tank cover that has the name of your bike on it. Underneath the side cover there are three rubber grommets (1 on the frame tab, and two on the air-box) that support the side cover. Remove the two that are on the air-box and leave the one on the frame. You will attach the two that you removed to the right side bracket in Section 4C . C. Faux air filter covers – On the right side of the bike, remove the chrome faux air filter covers, by removing the one allen head screw that holds it onto the air-box. On the left hand side (clutch side) remove the faux air filter cover in the same manner, you removed the one on the right. D. Plastic shrouds – on the left side, remove the black plastic air-box shroud, by removing the two allen head screws holding it in place. Then remove the plastic shroud covering your fuse box (this is the piece that surrounds your ignition terminal next to the battery). E. Battery – Remove the battery by unscrewing the torx-head bolt that holds the chrome bracket in place. Remove the chrome bracket and the black plastic cap. Tilt the battery out of the box with the top towards you. Disconnect both battery terminal connectors, negative (-) terminal first. Remove the battery. F. Battery box – Remove the two bolts that hold the battery box to the frame. Pull the battery box out as far as you can, then remove the the ignition terminal from the battery box, by removing the two allen screws that hold it in place from the back. Next, remove the fuse box from the battery box, by pushing it out from the back. It is not necessary to disconnect any of the wiring going to the fuse box, or the ignition terminal. G. Rear fender – Remove the rear fender, by first disconnecting the taillight wires. Follow the wires from the tail light assembly on the inside of the rear fender (left side) towards the front of the bike until you come to the box connector. Disconnect the tail light wires at this connector, being careful not to break it. Once the wiring is disconnected, remove the 6 bolts that hold it to the struts. Have someone hold the fender for you while you are removing all of the bolts so that it does not drop once the bolts are removed. Slide the fender out the rear of the bike. 2. PREPARE THE MOTORCYCLE FOR AIR-BOX REMOVAL To remove the factory air-box without damaging it, it is necessary to lift the bike. We recommend the use of a multi-position ATV/motorcycle jack with a minimum lift height of 10″. A. Setting up the lift – Place the lift under your bike and secure your bike to the lift according to the lift manufacturer’s instructions. B. Raise slightly – Lift the motorcycle to the point where the rear springs are without tension, but NOT to where the rear tire is off the ground. C. Remove the rear springs – Take off each of the rear springs by removing the the two bolts on each spring. Once all the bolts are removed gently pull the springs out off of the studs. If they do not pull off easily, you can raise or lower the bike slightly with the lift to ease tension on the spring. Remember, you should not have the rear tire off the ground at this point. The bike should only be raised enough to relax the tension in the springs. D. Remove the mufflers – Remove the mufflers by loosening the clamp at the exhaust header, and by removing the rear foot peg hangers. If the mufflers are not removed, they can become damaged by the axles in Section 2H . E. Disconnect the carburetors – With a small flathead screwdriver, pull the retainer springs out of the channel of the carburetor intake tubes (the two large black tubes coming from the air box into the back of each carburetor), and simply push them towards the air box off of the carbs

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