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HARLEY DAVIDSON BLACK ENGINE GUARD KIT REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 24-02-2011

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REMOVAL NOTE This Instruction Sheet covers several different Harley-Davidson models and years. Be sure to locate and follow the procedures that apply to the motorcycle receiving the new guard. For Models without Lower Fairings 1. Proceed to For All Models section. For Model FLHTCUI (Ultra Classic Electra Glide) with Factory-Installed Lower Fairings 1. Remove the lower fairings following the instructions in the appropriate Service Manual. 2. When the lower fairings have been removed, proceed to For All Models section. For Models FLHR/I (Road King), FLHT (Electra Glide Standard) or FLHTC/I (Electra Glide Classic) with Harley-Davidson Genuine Motor Accessory Lower Fairings 1. See Figure 1. Remove the two black screws (1) that attach the fairing cap (2) to the lower fairing (5). Remove the cap. Set the parts aside for re-installation. 2. Remove the screw (7), rubber washer (8) and locknut (10) and the clamp (9) that attaches the bottom of the lower fairing to the engine guard and set aside. 3. Remove the two locknuts (3), U-bolt (6) and U-bolt retainer (4). 4. Remove the lower fairing by sliding it out from behind the engine guard. 5. Repeat Steps 1 through 4 for the opposite side. 6. Proceed to For All Models section. For Model FLTR/I (Road Glide) with Harley-Davidson Genuine Motor Accessory Lower Fairings Disconnect negative (-) battery cable first. If positive (+) cable should contact ground with negative (-) cable connected, the resulting sparks can cause a battery explosion, which could result in death or serious injury. (00049a) 1. Disconnect the battery, negative (-) battery cable first, following the instructions in the appropriate Service Manual. 2. Remove the seat following the instructions in the appropriate Service Manual. 3. Remove the cable strap holding the clutch cable to the engine guard. 4. See Figure 2. Remove the TORX screw (8), rubber washer (9) and locknut (11) and the clamp (10) that attaches the bottom of the lower fairing (4) to the engine guard and set aside INSTALLATION 1. Hold the engine guard in position, and loosely fasten the top of the guard with the new hex socket screw and flat washer from the kit. 2. Install the bottom brackets to the motorcycle frame with the two new TORX screws and locknuts. 3. Tighten all three screws to 15-20 ft-lbs (20.3-27.1 Nm) . For Model FLHTCUI (Ultra Classic Electra Glide) with Factory-Installed Lower Fairings 1. Install the lower fairings following the instructions in the appropriate Service Manual. For Models FLHR/I (Road King), FLHT (Electra Glide Standard) or FLHTC/I (Electra Glide Classic) with Harley- Davidson Genuine Motor Accessory Lower Fairings 1. Carefully place one lower fairing in position from behind the engine guard. 2. See Figure 1. Install the lower fairing to the top of the new engine guard with the U-bolt (6) from the back, through the holes at the top of the fairing. Install the retainer (4) in position on the U-bolt and secure to the engine guard with the two locknuts (3). Do not tighten the locknuts at this time. 3. Attach the bottom of the fairing to the engine guard with the clamp (9) removed earlier. Install the clamp around the engine guard in the direction shown, with the tabs toward the rear of the vehicle and the flat side of the clamp against the lower fairing. Insert the screw (7) through the lower fairing, rubber washer (8) and clamp (9). Secure the assembly with the locknut (10). Tighten to 12 ft-lbs (16.3 Nm) .

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How to Replacing Rear Main Seal 1

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 24-11-2010

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The next day I woke up early and drank lots of coffee before going out to the garage. I knew I had two distinct problems confronting me. First, I would have to purchase an impact tool in order to loosen the six bolts holding the clutch together. Also, I would have to purchase at least three 8mm by 50mm bolts and nuts in order to prevent the clutch from exploding when the six bolts were unscrewed. For the third time in two days, I went to Sears and asked the salesman, (who I now I knew as Art,) where I could find an impact tool. He did not know what it was I was looking for, but he asked another employee and soon I had the tool as well as a 6mm Allen socket. Unfortunately, the Allen socket only came in 3/8″ drive, and the impact tool only came in 1/2″ drive. Thinking quickly, I purchased a 1/2″ to 3/8″ adapter, as well as a 3lb. dead- blow hammer. On the way home, I stopped at a Chief Auto Parts to buy the bolts I would need. The closest size they had were 8mm by 40mm, which was nearly 10mm too short. I was unsure whether the clutch cover bolts were coarse thread or fine thread, so I bought three of each, along with corresponding nuts. Finally, around 11 o’clock in the morning, I was back at the garage ready to work. I prepared the impact tool and placed the adapter and the Allen socket on it. I began to hammer on the end of the tool, trying to loosen each of the six bolts. None of them seemed to move, even though it seemed the impact tool was turning. Finally, I put the Allen socket on the breaker bar and found that all of the bolts had actually come loose. The tension from the clutch spring made it nearly impossible to see, however. I removed three of the bolts in a triangular pattern. Into these empty holes I threaded the fine- thread 40mm bolts with nuts attached and tightened them evenly. I was now able to remove the remaining Allen bolts. By slowly turning and loosening the nuts evenly on the 40mm bolts, I relieved the pressure from the clutch spring until the cover plate was free. I removed the cover plate, the clutch, the pressure plate, and finally the clutch spring. I had already marked each of the elements with Whiteout to insure that they would fit together the same way on installation. Apparently, this is essential as the flywheel could be rendered out-of-balance if the clutch components are not installed correctly. The flywheel itself was now exposed. I could see the five bolts that attached it to the crankshaft. I now used a tool I had fabricated. Although the manual describes two possible tools that can be fabricated, I found a piece of metal that resembled the tool and decided to use it. Unfortunately it was not strong enough and broke. I turned and looked at my workbench, and noticed a bracket which I had previously fabricated for mounting a mirror on my Vespa. The piece of steel was extremely strong and was already pre-drilled with correct-sized holes. It fit perfectly, so I placed it over the exposed bolt which protruded from the case, and placed the other end on one of the 40mm bolts, which I then bolted into the flywheel itself. I used the breaker bar again and removed the five bolts. The flywheel came loose after inserting two more 40mm bolts and tugging on them evenly

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Yamaha Road Star Engine Guard Installation Manual

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 07-11-2010

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1. Protect the rear portion of the front fender with a towel or other thick, soft cloth. 2. Remove the OEM engine guards if they have been installed on the motorcycle. Or, if OEM engine guards are not present, Remove the two lower engine mount bolts. These bolts are located on the inside of the right and left frame rails, and will be replaced with the longer 10mm bolts included with your new engine guard. 3. Position the engine guard so that the lower brackets point towards the rear of the motorcycle, and slide the engine guard into the space between the front wheel and the frame. 4. Raise the guard until the upper V” mount is located between the frame rails. Note: Your new Barons engine guard is equipped with a unique upper V” mount clamp. This clamp becomes a cradle for the upper frame supports when it is inserted between the frame rails. 5. Rotate the engine guard until the lower mounting brackets are aligned with the lower engine mount holes. Due to production line tolerances in both the motorcycle and the engine guard, the mounting brackets may be too wide or too narrow for the frame. If this is the case, remove the guard from the motorcycle. Place the guard on a flat, firm surface. Insert a towel or other protective material between the guard and the surface. Using a rubber mallet or a block of wood and a hammer, tap the lower brackets until they are correctly spaced. 6. Insert the new 10mm bolts and washers, and finger tighten only. 7. Tighten each 3/8″ bolt in the upper clamp evenly by using a 9/16″ socket or a wrench. Snug down each bolt until it draws the front of the upper clamp into contact with the upper frame supports, then adjust these bolts accordingly to achieve equal spacing between each floorboard and the lower engine guard rail. 8. Tighten the jam nuts against the washers to lock each bolt in place. CAUTION! It is critical that you do not over-tighten these bolts. Tighten all remaining nuts and bolts securely. If necessary, slightly loosen rear brake line banjo bolt and rotate banjo fitting for clearance with engine guard. Tighten banjo bolt and check brake for proper operation. You must re-tighten all four of the engine guard mounting bolts after 100 miles of riding! Care & Cleaning: Engine guards take the full brunt of the worst of what the weather in your area has to offer, making it critical that proper and complete cleaning take place on a weekly basis, or corrosion will occur which is not covered by warranty! Proper cleaning procedure would be to use a product like Simple Green, LOC, Salt-Away or similar. Mix a strong batch and apply it liberally with a soft towel or soft nylon brush to the entire

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Harley Davidson FL series Electra Glide, Ultra Classic, Road King, Road Glide Left and Right Mounting Plate Installation Installation Manual

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 25-02-2012

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Remove existing control arm end cap and grind the outside flush. See picture below for reference. The swing arm will drop if both sides are removed at the same time. To ease installation, complete one side before starting on the other. Note: there is a left and right. Left and right end caps shown. 2. Install mounting plate assembly 10002351 on top of the end cap using 7/16″ hex head bolt and lock washer in the bottom hole. Use the 7/16″ counter sink bolt in the top hole. Make sure the end cap is seated properly. The end cap notch should fit into the recess on the frame. The pivot arm assembly is shipped on mounting plate assembly; you may remove the pivot arm to make installation easier. 3. Snug up the bolts evenly, make sure the end caps are not crooked in relation to the frame. Tighten both bolts to 25 ft lbs. (Further tightening will be required after the toe in is set). 4. If you removed the left hand pivot arm assembly, remount it now, 10002575-A (pg 20) with seal, bearings (2), washer, nut, cotter pin and dust cover. 5. Repeat for right hand side. 5 Toe In Adjustment Adjustment made with the mounting plates, bolts, pivot arms, and hubs (without wheels and tires) in place

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Ridley Auto-Glide Installation Manual

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Filed Under (Ridley) by admin on 01-11-2010

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Place motorcycle in a secure upright position 2) Remove saddle bags (if applicable) 3) Remove rear fender mounting bolts (3 each side) 4) Tap indicated rear fender mounting holes with a 3/8″ – 16 tap. (2 holes each side) It is highly recommended that cutting/tap oil is used. Use care when tapping holes. Be certain to tap holes completely through. 5) Ensure 2 large attachment bolts are tight. 6) Attach Bracket C (left) and Bracket D (right) to rear fender rail. Use new bolts provided on outer tapped holes (2) and one of the longer original bolts for center hole. Place one washer between brackets C & D and rear fender rail on each bolt. (3 each side) Place washer and thin nut on inside of rear fender on new bolts (2 each side) These replace original fender washers. It may be necessary to reattach saddle bag attachment hardware when attaching brackets C and D. All saddle bag hardware should be attached to the OUTSIDE of brackets C and D. 7) Attach front of Bracket A (left) and B (right) to existing hole in motorcycle frame just above swing arm pivot. 8) Attach rear of bracket A (left) B (right) to TOP of forward hitch arms. Snug bracket A and B attachment bolts at this time. 10) Attach top of Bracket E (left) and F (right) to outside of lower tabs on bracket C & D. 11) Attach bottom of brackets E and F to top of rear hitch plate. 12) Tighten bolts at this time. Use caution not to over tighten and strip tapped holes in rear fender rail. Bracket Identification

Ducati Front Suspension and Wheel Installation Manual

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Filed Under (Ducati) by admin on 26-10-2010

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It is important to follow the proper installation sequence for installing the front suspension components. With out doing so it is possible to incorrectly align the front axle in the forks or misalign the forks themselves. Be careful to tighten the pinch bolts for the forks and the axle to the correct torque as many of the large diameter axles are thin-walled and can become permanently distorted if over- torqued. It is also possible to distort the fork stanchions or overstress the triple clamp with excessive torque. The forks derive a significant portion of there rigidity from a strong junction with the axle and triple clamp. Always sequentially cross tighten the pinch bolts to allow an even compression. Cogent Dynamics recommends measuring your fork position (height of the “legs”) using the bottom surface of the lower triple clamp as the datum point as shown in the Ducati service manual. Once the height is correctly set, clamp the lower pinch bolts to hold the forks in this position. The top clamp should have all three pinch bolts loose at this point (this includes the steering stem pinch bolt). Also the steering stem top bolt should be loosened. Clean and grease the axle before inserting it into the wheel. Avoid damaging the thin-walled axle, during installation. Once the axle is inserted through the fork lowers and the, line up the holes in the axle with the holes in the axle clamps so that the through-holes allow screwdriver access to the compression valve adjusters (for forks with the bottom compression adjusters.

Suzuki B-King GSX1300 BK Suspension Removal and Installation

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Filed Under (Suzuki) by admin on 01-12-2010

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Front Fork Removal and Installation B823H12206002 NOTE The right and left front forks are installed symmetrically and therefore the removal procedure for one side is the same as that for the other side. Removal 1) Remove the front wheel assembly. Refer to “Front Wheel Assembly Removal and Installation in Section 2D (Page 2D-4)”. CAUTION ! •Make sure that the motorcycle is supported securely. •Do not operate the front brake lever with the front wheel removed. 2) Disconnect the brake hose clamp (1) from the front fender. 3) Disconnect the brake hose (2) from the brake hose clamp. 4) Remove the front fender by removing the bolts (3) , left and right. 5) Remove the reflex reflector for E-03, 24, 28, 33. 6) After removing of the headlight cover upper screws (4), move the headlight assembly forward. 7) Loose the front fork upper clamp bolt (5). NOTE •Slightly loosen the front fork cap bolt (6) to facilitate later disassembly. •Be sure to adjust the rebound damping force adjuster (7) to the softest position before removing the front fork. 8) Loosen the front fork lower clamp bolts (8) and remove the front fork. NOTE Hold the front fork by the hand to prevent sliding out of the steering stem. Installation 1) Set the front fork to the front fork lower bracket temporarily by tightening the lower clamp bolts (1) . 2) Tighten the front fork cap bolt (2) to the specified torque. Tightening torque Front fork cap bolt (a): 23 N·m (2.3 kgf-m, 16.5 lb-ft) 3) Loosen the lower clamp bolts. 4) Set the front fork with the upper surface “T” of the outer tube positioned 3.0 mm (0.12 in) “a” from the upper surface of the steering stem upper bracket. 5) Tighten the front fork lower clamp bolts (1). Tightening torque Front fork lower clamp bolt (b): 23 N·m (2.3 kgf- m, 16.5 lb-ft) 6) Tighten the front fork upper clamp bolt (3). Tightening torque Front fork upper clamp bolt (c): 23 N·m (2.3 kgf- m, 16.5 lb-ft

Yamaha V-Star 650 Engine Guard Installation Manual

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 08-11-2010

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1. Protect the rear portion of the front fender with a towel or other thick, soft cloth. Remove the OEM engine guards if they have been installed on the motorcycle. Your new Barons engine guard will fasten to the frame at the same points as the OEM guard and will use the same hardware. 2. Or, if OEM engine guards are not present, remove the 14mm bolts from the underside of the drivers footpeg mounts. 3. Remove the 12mm upper engine mount bolts located on both sides of the frame. Replacement bolts are included with your new engine guard. 4. Position the engine guard so that the lower brackets point towards the rear of the motorcycle, and slide the engine guard into the space between the front wheel and the frame. 5. Raise the guard until the holes in the lower mounting brackets align with the vacated bolt holes beneath the drivers footpegs. Due to production line tolerances in both the motorcycle and the engine guard, the mounting brackets may be too wide or too narrow for the frame. If this is the case, remove the guard from the motorcycle. Place the guard on a flat, firm surface. Insert a towel or other protective material between the guard and the surface. Using a rubber mallet or a block of wood and a hammer, tap the lower brackets until they are correctly spaced. 6. Insert the large washers (supplied with the guard) between the rear face of the lower bracket and the frame. The washer fills the space between the lower mounting bracket and the footpeg mount. Reinsert the 14mm bolts and finger tighten. 7. Rotate the guard until the holes in the upper mounting brackets align with the empty holes on each side of the frame. 8. Insert the replacement 13mm bolts, along with their washers, and tighten securely. Tighten all other nuts and bolts securely. 9. Remove the protection on the front fender and you’re ready to ride. CAUTION!!! You must re-tighten all four of the engine guard mounting bolts after 100 miles of riding! Care & Cleaning: Engine guards take the full brunt of the worst of what the weather in your area has to offer, making it critical that proper and complete cleaning take place on a weekly basis, or corrosion will occur which is not covered by warranty! Proper cleaning procedure would be to use a product like Simple Green, LOC, Salt-Away or similar. Mix a strong batch and apply it liberally with a soft towel or soft nylon brush to the entire

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Yamaha V-Star 650 Engine Guard REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 03-01-2012

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Protect the rear portion of the front fender with a towel or other thick, soft cloth. Remove the OEM engine guards if they have been installed on the motorcycle. Your new Barons engine guard will fasten to the frame at the same points as the OEM guard and will use the same hardware. 2. Or, if OEM engine guards are not present, remove the 14mm bolts from the underside of the drivers footpeg mounts. 3. Remove the 12mm upper engine mount bolts located on both sides of the frame. Replacement bolts are included with your new engine guard. 4. Position the engine guard so that the lower brackets point towards the rear of the motorcycle, and slide the engine guard into the space between the front wheel and the frame. 5. Raise the guard until the holes in the lower mounting brackets align with the vacated bolt holes beneath the drivers footpegs. Due to production line tolerances in both the motorcycle and the engine guard, the mounting brackets may be too wide or too narrow for the frame. If this is the case, remove the guard from the motorcycle. Place the guard on a flat, firm surface. Insert a towel or other protective material between the guard and the surface. Using a rubber mallet or a block of wood and a hammer, tap the lower brackets until they are correctly spaced. 6. Insert the large washers (supplied with the guard) between the rear face of the lower bracket and the frame. The washer fills the space between the lower mounting bracket and the footpeg mount. Reinsert the 14mm bolts and finger tighten. 7. Rotate the guard until the holes in the upper mounting brackets align with the empty holes on each side of the frame. 8. Insert the replacement 13mm bolts, along with their washers, and tighten securely. Tighten all other nuts and bolts securely. 9. Remove the protection on the front fender and you’re ready to ride. CAUTION!!! You must re-tighten all four of the engine guard mounting bolts after 100 miles of riding! Care & Cleaning: Engine guards take the full brunt of the worst of what the weather in your area has to offer, making it critical that proper and complete cleaning take place on a weekly basis, or corrosion will occur which is not covered by warranty! Proper cleaning procedure would be to use a product like Simple Green, LOC, Salt-Away or similar. Mix a strong batch and apply it liberally with a soft towel or soft nylon brush to the entire

HARLEY DAVIDSON VENTED FAIRING LOWERS KIT INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 03-02-2011

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INSTALLATION 1. See Figure 1. From the kit, obtain the left side fairing lower (1), left side fairing lower cap (2), two flange locking nuts (3) and two stud clips (4). Place fairing lower cap in front of the left side engine guard and left side fairing lower behind engine fairing guard. With both pieces in place around engine guard, install the two flange locking nuts onto the studs clips and hand tighten. Repeat procedure for right side fairing lower. 2. Secure bottom of fairing lower to lower engine guard with round clamp (5) from hardware kit. Position clamp around engine guard with tabs toward rear of vehicle and flat side of clamp against fairing lower and with the rubber washer (6) between clamp and engine guard. Place Torx pan screw (7) through fairing lower, rubber washer and clamp. Secure assembly with flanged locknut (8). Repeat for right side fairing lower. Tighten to 144 in-lbs (16.3 Nm). 3. Tighten all left and right side upper flange locking nuts (3) to 72 in-lbs (8.1 Nm). 4. Install left side door assembly glovebox (9) to fairing lower using the attachment cord (10). Insert glovebox door into fairing lower. Repeat for right side fairing lower. NOTE Do not press reflector firmly into place until you have it positioned in desired location. The adhesive is very strong and once it comes in contact with a surface, it will be difficult to remove without damaging the reflector. 5. Peel adhesive strip off back of reflector from kit. Position reflector on side of front fender above chrome side trim strip and approximately 4 inches rearward from front of fender. Press reflector securely into place. Repeat for opposite side reflector

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