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POLINI X1 GENERAL INFORMATION AND SPECIFICATIONS

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Filed Under (Polini) by admin on 02-12-2010

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Air cleaner – Clean and reoil daily or after each moto to prevent motor failure and reduced performance. Transmission oil – change after every race, or at end of riding day. Chain – check tension and lubricate before every ride, adjust or replace as needed. Reoil after riding in damp conditions. Clutch – disassemble and clean clutch assembly frequently, every 2-3 races at least. Inspect kickstarter gears at this time. Ignition cover – remove cover and wipe dry after each ride or after washing bike to remove condensation. Piston rings – replace as often as every 3-5 races with expert rider, less often with less aggressive riders. Piston, pin, rod bearing & circlips – replace as often as every 8-10 races with expert rider, less often with less aggressive riders. Coolant – change yearly, make sure there is at least a 50/50 mixture of antifreeze if freezing temperatures are possible. Steering bearings – Check daily for looseness or play. Adjust and regrease as needed. Swingarm – Check often for looseness. Regrease several times a year. Replace bushings if any play is evident. Sprockets – check for worn or curved teeth each time chain is adjusted. Chain roller& wear pads – check roller for free rotation when checking chain. Make sure roller is not bent or damaged. Check chain wear strips on swingarm and chain guide frequently. Replace as needed to prevent chain from damaging motorcycle. Spokes – Check after each race or after each day of riding for looseness or damage. Wheels & tires – check wheels after each race for dents, cracks or other damage. Check tires for cuts, damage or wear. Check tire pressure daily and adjust for riding conditions. Shock – Check shaft area daily for signs of oil leakage or damage. Check swingarm and shock bushings for looseness. Forks – Check forks daily for leaking oil or damage to tubes. Make sure forks are not twisted check for smooth operation. Spark plug – check sparkplug color and condition after each race or end of riding day. Adjust jetting to keep plug from fouling or overheating. Silencer – If bike seems to be getting louder, replace packing and decarbonize inner tube. Expansion pipe – check daily for large dents, damage or leakage. Remove carbon from headpipe when pipe is removed. Have large dents fixed, or any dents within 8″ of the cylinder. Replace o-rings on pipe as needed to maintain a good seal. Footpegs – check daily for proper operation, pegs should spring back into place. Make sure pegs are not bent or overly dull. Handlebars – check bars after any crash for bending. Look for cracks near bar clamps. Replace bars that have been straightened more than 2 or three times, or if bar is badly bent. Aweakened bar can snap suddenly causing injury to rider. Throttle – check throttle for proper operation each time before bike is started. Remove and clean inside of grip and bar as needed. Grips – check grips daily for wear or looseness. Replace as needed. Use grip glue & safety wire to help hold grips in position. Calipers & pads – check pad wear and caliper function daily or after each race. Replace pads and clean calipers as needed. Brake lever – check lever daily for damage or wear. Make sure lever is at proper angle for both seated and standing positions. Leave lever clamp loose enough to allow clamp to rotate during crash rather than breaking lever. Check and adjust freeplay as needed. Brake pedal – Check pedal daily for damage and proper freeplay. Adjust rear caliper as needed. Reeds – Remove and inspect reed block during every ring change. Check reeds for signs of wear, fraying and cracking. Make sure reeds sit flat and seal well. Replace at any sign of wear or damage or at least once a year, more often for expert riders. Nuts & bolts – Check all nuts and bolts regularly. Make sure to check engine mounting bolts and swingarm bolt frequently

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Kawasaki ZRX-1100 / 1200 exhaust system Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 25-10-2010

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1. Remove the existing exhaust system and save the flange nuts for reuse. Save the stock exhaust can mounting bolt and nut for reuse as well. 2. Inspect the exhaust gaskets. Replace if necessary. 3. Attach the head pipes 1, 2, 3 , and 4 to the exhaust ports of their respective cylinders, using the flange nuts saved from step 1 above. Loosely apply the flange nuts for now, allowing for ome adjustment. 4. Attach the Y-pipe collectors to the head pipes. Please note that one collector goes to pipes #1 and #4 and one collector goes to pipes #2 and #3 (collectors are labeled). Make sure the ends of the head pipes fit flush and snug in the ports. Do not install the springs at this time. 5. Install the S-Bend to the rear of the two Y-pipe collectors. Do not install the springs at this time. 6. Go back and retighten the head pipe flange nuts per factory specifications – make sure the head pipes are centered in each port. 7. Slide the TiForce end can into place on the S-bend pipe. 8. Loosely attach the two rubber bands, stainless steel bands K, and the stay / hanger G, to the end can using the supplied 6mm hardware H. (See figure 1) . Make sure that the rubber bands fully cover the stainless bands to prevent scratches to the can. 9. Place the bands approximately 108mm from the edge of the end can. (See figure 2) . 10. Go back and tighten the exhaust flange nuts per factory specification. Do not over tighten. 11. Using the stock provided mounting point on the right passenger footpeg, and using the stock mounting bolt, mount the end can loosely, allowing for some adjustment. Insert the stock mounting bolt through the stay / hanger G. 12. Attach the supplied springs to all the joints, starting from the head pipes and working back to the end can. 13. Make sure the exhaust system is free and clear, if necessary jiggle the system to adjust for proper clearance. 14. Carefully align the two stainless bands K so that they are parallel to each other, and spaced properly on the can (refer to step 11 / figure 2), then tighten the 6mm hardware H and the stock mounting bolt hardware. Make sure that the rubber pads fully cover the band(s). USE CAUTION WHEN TIGHTENING THE 6MM HARDWARE AND THE TWO BANDS SO AS NOT TO CRUSH OR DISTORT THE SLEEVE OF THE CAN. 15. Using some brake and contact cleaner on a clean rag, carefully wipe down the entire exhaust system to remove any residual oils, anti seize, fingerprints and dirt prior to starting the motor. FAILURE TO CLEAN THE TUBING AND CAN MAY RESULT IN PERMANENT STAINING OF THE SYSTEM WHEN HEATED. 16. Check that all hardware is properly tightened, and then start the motor and check for exhaust leaks

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DAZON RAIDER CLASSIC OWNER'S MANUAL

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Filed Under (Dazon) by admin on 28-11-2010

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Tires: Use a gauge to check the air pressure. Adjust if needed. Also look for signs of damages or excessive wear. z Nuts & Bolts : Check the wheels to see that the axle nuts are tightened. Use a wrench to make sure all accessible nuts, bolts, and fasteners are tight. z Underbody & Exhaust System: Check for and remove any dirt, vegetation or other debris that could be fire hazard or interfere with the proper operation of the BUGGY. z Air Cleaner Housing Drain Tube: Check for carbon deposits in the drain tube. If necessary, clean the tube and check the air cleaner housing. z Leaks, Loose Parts : Walk around your BUGGY and look for anything that appears unusual, such as a leak or loose cable. z Lights : Make sure the headlight, brake light and taillight are working properly. z Throttle : Check the free play and adjust if needed. Press the throttle to make sure it moves smoothly without sticking, and snaps back automatically when it is released. z Brakes : Press the rear brake pedal several times, check for proper brake pedal free play. Make sure there is no brake fluid leakage. z Engine Stop Button : When engine is running, press and hold the Engine Stop Button for two seconds. Make

2006-2010 Triumph Sprint St 1050 Exhaust System Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Triumph) by admin on 29-10-2010

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1. Make sure the bike is completely cool before starting the installation. Make sure the bike is secure on center stand or ideally a service lift. 2. Remove the seat and handle: 3. Remove the rear cowling: 4. Remove the fender assembly: 5. Remove the plastic cover on fender assembly to expose the brake and turn signal wires. Disconnect the brake light wires: 6. Remove the OEM muffler: 7. To install the Two Brothers Racing Slip-on Exhaust System: Attach the slip-tube with the X-Lite Ring™ to the muffler using the 4 (four) 6x14mm socket head cap screws and split lock washers provided. Leave loose for now. 8. Attach the rubber lined muffler clamps and plate brackets as shown to the muffler assembly using the 2 (two) 8x20mm socket head cap screws and nuts provided. Leave loose for now. 9. Install muffler assembly using the OEM mounting bolts and joint clamp. 10. Make sure muffler is aligned when the bike is centered. Then tighten the four V.A.L.E.™ assembly bolts and clamp bolts. Make sure there is clearance between wiring and all body parts. 11. Attach the turn signals/taillights and plate lights as shown in Wiring Diagram. Join wires to main wire harness using the supplied splice connectors and blue scotch locks. You can either cut the OEM modular connectors off of the wiring harness or splice new wire to them. The supplied lighting devices will need to have the modular connectors removed. Run all wiring to the left side of the rear frame, away from the muffler assembly making sure there is adequate clearance from all body parts. Make sure all lights work correctly. 12. Re-install the fender assembly, rear cowling, seat and handle from steps 2-4. 13. Double check your work for alignment and fitment. 14. Before you run the bike, clean off all fingerprints and dirt, as any oily residue will etch the metal and become somewhat permanent when the system gets hot. Remove any plastic film from name badge(s) and/or canister clamp(s). Run the bike and enjoy. It is normal for some white smoke to appear the first time you start the bike. This is packing/manufacturing oil from inside the pipe burning off. Check for gaps or leaks. If you find a leak, a little high temperature silicon sealant should fix it. After 50 to 100 miles, recheck all fasteners for tightness

Kawasaki ZX-9R Ninja Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 05-11-2010

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1. Remove the lower fairing. Remove thelower radiator mounting bolts, loosen the upper bolts and pivot the radiator forward to provide access to the exhaust nuts (flange nuts). Remove the oil cooler mounting bolts and pivot the oil cooler forward to provide access. 2. Remove the existing exhaust system and save the flange nuts for reuse. Save the stock exhaust can mounting bolt and nut for reuse as well. 3. Inspect the exhaust gaskets. Replace if necessary. 4. Assemble the head pipes 1 (blue), 2 (red), 3 (yellow), and 4 (green) by matching the joints of the same color to the pair of front Y-pipes. Do not install the exhaust springs at this time. 5. 2000 through 2002 models ONLY!!! Place a billet aluminum exhaust port centering flange Z on each TiForce headpipe -see figure 3 for details. 6. Attachthe assembled head pipe sections to the exhaust ports, but do not tighten the flange nuts fully, allowing for some adjustment in the remaining steps. Reuse the flange nuts saved from step 2 above. Make sure the ends of the headpipes fit flush and snug in the ports and centering flanges Z before tightening (’00-’02 ONLY). 7. Install the S-Bend to the front section of the headpipes and two Y-pipes. 8. Go back and retighten the head pipe flange nuts per factory specifications -make sure the headpipes and flanges Z are centered in each port (’00-’02 ONLY!!! ) . 9. Slide the TiForce end can into place. 10. Loosely attach the two rubber bands, stainless steel bands K, and stay / hanger G to the end can using the supplied 6mm hardware H. See figure 1. 11. Place the bands approximately 108 mm from the edge of the end can. See figure 2. 12. Using the stock provided mounting point on the passenger footpeg, and using the stock mounting bolt, mount the end can loosely, allowing for some adjustment. Insert the stock mounting bolt through the stay / hanger G. 13. Attach the supplied springs to all the joints, starting from the headpipes and working back to the end can. 14. Make sure the exhaust system is free and clear, if necessary jiggle the system to adjust for proper clearance. 15. Carefully align the two stainless bands K so that they are parallel to each other, and spaced properly on the can (refer to step 11 /figure 2), then tighten the 6mm hardware H and the stock mounting bolt hardware. Make sure that the rubber pads fully cover the band(s). USE CAUTIONWHEN TIGHTENING THE 6MM HARDWARE AND THE TWO BANDS SO AS NOT TO CRUSH OR DISTORT THE SLEEVE OF THE CAN. 16. Using some brake and contact cleaner on a clean rag, carefully wipe down the entire exhaust system to remove any residual oils, anti seize, fingerprints and dirt prior to starting the motor. FAILURE TO CLEAN THE TUBING AND CAN MAY RESULT IN PERMANENT STAINING OF THE SYSTEM WHEN HEATED. 17. Go back and reinstall the radiator and oil cooler as per factory specifications. Verify fluid levels as needed. 18. Checkthat all hardware is properly tightened, then start the motor and check for exhaust leaks. 19. Reinstall the fairing and tighten any fasteners per factory specification

1993-1999 Honda CBR900RR Frame Slider Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 27-10-2010

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1. Some photos in this section are used for illustration examples only. It is up to you how you decide to cut your motorcycles bodywork to accept the frame slider there are many different ways customers go through this process. Shogun is not responsible for any part of your motorcycle for any reason. Precisely measure location of cut and if in doubt at any point please call us before the install process has begun. Professional installation is recommended. Always use proper safety measures during the install of this product. Do not try to install this product without proper tools, recently calibrated torque wrench, correct torque specifications from factory service manual, safety goggles and gloves. 2. Body Prep. Use masking tape to completely mask off the area on the body where you will be working. We usually will tape off approximately 6 to 8 inches around the though hole area and any other edges that could get bumped or scratched while working. Tip: In some locations you may want to double up the thickness of the masking take to give extra protection. 3. Locating and cutting the body. This is a simple illustration of how most of us install the product here. It takes a bit longer but our end results have been more consistent with a better overall fit and finish. We start with (99-SPOT-1012560) Shogun Spot tool. It’s nothing special just a 10mm socket cap bolt with a 1.25 pitch that we cut the head off of and sharpen to a point. You can purchase the tool for $12.99 or go to your local hardware store and make your own. Keep in mind Metric 10 or 12mm X 1.25 pitch bolts (most common sportbike engine studs) are fairly hard to find. Make sure you know the size and that the bolt you’re buying is a 1.25 pitch bolt. With the body removed, thread in by hand your spot tool. Make sure you have the spot tool screwed in enough to clear the body on the inside. 4. Loosely mount your bodywork and adjust the spot tool out to lightly touch the inside of the body. Make sure you have at least 15mm of thread engagement, without that the spot tool will tend to sag down giving you a false location. With the body mounted in the correct location use a soft micro fiber cloth over the spot tool location and softly tap to leave a spot mark on the inside of the body. Be careful not to scratch or chip the body

Adjusting the Pekar K68 for Dnepr or Ural

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 11-11-2010

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1. Make sure the ignition timing is correct 2. Adjust the valves as necessary to ensure proper operation 3. Run the engine to warm it up a bit 4. Adjust the float setting. To do this, remove the carburetors (leave the throttle cables attached), remove the bowl and turn the carburetor upside down (fuel will spill). The float should look like this: Adjust as necessary by bending the float support (#37 in Figure 1). Reinstall Installation and idle adjustment 1. First you must adjust the idle. It is acceptable per the manual to adjust the idle by using the idle adjust screws (11). This usually involves screwing them then backing out 1 to 1.5 turns. Or you can adjust looking at the sliders 2. If installing the carburetors: a. Remove the cover (2) b. Reomve the slider (3) c. Place the throttle cable through the guide (18) with the spring (4) on the cable. d. Route the cable through the slide catch (6) e. Insert the slide assembly into the chamber and make sure it easily slides up and down. Direct the needle (8) into the opening of the diffuser (angled side visible). f. Screw assembly together and verify via throttle movement that slide moves freely. Attach fuel delivery lines to (12). 3. Using the idle set screw (11) raise the slider so the lower edge is 1-2 mm. 4. Assemble to engine using the proper gaskets (paper – felt – paper). 5. Using the locknut (26) adjust the free play of the throttle cable (2-3 mm) 6. Adjust the idle mixture screw – turn in completely then out 1 to 1.5 turns. * Starting using the K68′s (cold weather) 1. Verify fuel flow. Apply choke (pull 52 in Fig1). 2. Using the ticklers (13) allow fuel to enter the bowl until fuel drains from (14) 3. With the ignition off, kick 1 or 2 times 4. Turn ignition on, and as soon as engine is warmed up (maybe sooner) push choke mechanisms to open choke Idle Adjustment (engine running and warm) 1. Remove one of the spark plug caps, and with the cap shorted, adjust (11) to decrease RPM’s to a point of being minimally steady. 2. Adjust the mixture (15) out until RPM’s decrease. Turn in until RPM’s increase slightly. Then turn in screws ¼ to 1/3 revoultion. 3. Do the same for the second carburetor with the first spark plug cap shorted. 4. With both cylinders, adjust each idle (11) on each carburetor the same amount each until it’s at a steady, minimal RPM. Use small changes. (at this point you can use your airflow tool to check). 5. Sharply increase, then decrease throttle. Then engine must return to low RPMs smoothly. If the engine goes below limits, readjust (11) from step 4. Synchronization of the K68 Note: Rather than using the opposite cylinder shorted to test the pull of the live cylinder carburetor, you can use something like a Twinmax connected to the test ports (27 Fig 1). Or, if you have a model without these ports, use a Synchrometer (Appendix 2) held against the face of the carburetor. These tools merely show airflow passing through each carburetor (which is dependent on the position and wear on the slide). If using these tools, it’s not necessary to do the following steps. You wil want to use a throttle guide (Appendix 1), to show airflow at various throttle settings. Using the flow meter of your choice make sure each carburetor is the same at the various throttle settings. 1. Place the motorcycle on the center stand ensuring the rear wheel is suspended 2. Make sure you have large area to work with (safety issues here) 3. Shift into the highest gear with the engine running 4. Short one spark plug cap to the cylinder (using a nail or something in the fins) 5. Increase the speed to 40-50 km/hr 6. Fix the throttle using the throttle (maybe using a throttle stop screw under the throttle housing). 7. Reconnect other cylinder and using the opposite carburetor determine the speed which should be the same as the first. 8. Adjust the position of this slide to achieve the referenced speed using the locknut at the top of the carburetor.

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2009 Harley-Davidson FLH Series Independent Suspension Trike Conversion Installation Manual

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 16-02-2011

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Important Safety Precautions a. Make sure you have a clear understanding of all basic shop safety practices and that you wear appropriate clothing and use safety equipment. Be especially careful of the following: · Read all directions before you begin, and make sure you have the tools, the parts and the skills required to perform the tasks safely and completely.Harley-Davidson® FLH 2009 & Up Independent Suspension CHAMPION TRIKES Installation Guide Page 5 of 18 Revision 8 · Protect your eyes by using proper safety glasses, goggles or face shields anytime you hammer, drill, grind, pry or work around pressurized air or liquids, and springs or other stored-energy components. · Use other protective wear when necessary, for example gloves or safety shoes. Handling hot or sharp parts can cause severe burns or cuts. · Protect yourself and others when you have a vehicle up in the air. Anytime you lift a vehicle, either by hoist or a jack, make sure that it is securely supported. b. Make sure the engine is turned off and battery disconnected before you begin work. · Carbon Monoxide poisoning from exhaust gases: Be sure there is adequate ventilation whenever you run the engine. · Burns from hot parts: Let the engine and exhaust system cool before working on those areas. · Injury from moving parts: If running the engine, keep hands, fingers and clothing away from moving/rotating parts. c. Gasoline vapor and hydrogen gases from batteries are explosive. To reduce the possibility of fire or explosion, be careful when working near gasoline and batteries. d. Use only nonflammable solvent, not gasoline, to clean parts. e. Never drain or store gasoline in an open container. f. Keep all cigarettes, sparks or flame away from the battery and all fuel related parts. 1.6 Specifications Overall Length: 103″ Overall Width: 57.25″ Wheel Base: 53″ Max Load Capacity: 600 Lb Max Tire Size (15″): 205 / 70 / R15 Wheel Size (15″) (4 lug) Offset +35 mm 15x7JJ 4 on 4.5 Tire Pressure: 24-26 PSI Suspension: Double A-arm Independent Rear Differential: Custom-built rear differential utilizing OEM drive belt. Brakes: Original front plus 2 high performance disc brakes at rear. Storage Capacity: 5.75 cubic feet. Two full-face helmets and additional storage. *Champion does not change certain components that will affect EPA, CARB, or any laws that will change the emission characteristics of the motorcycle.

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BMW K1200 RS/ GT Full Exhaust System Full Exhaust System Installation Manual

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Filed Under (BMW) by admin on 26-10-2010

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1. Make sure the bike is completely cool before starting the installation. Make sure the bike is secure on the side- stand or ideally a rear service stand. 2. Remove the lower fairing. 3. Unscrew the O 2 sensor. Remove the stock exhaust system at the rear canister support bracket and where it bolts to the engine. CAUTION -the stock exhaust is very heavy, be careful not to drop it! Also, be careful not to damage the engine sensor located near the front header pipe. 4. Pry out the old exhaust port gaskets and replace with new BMW OE (x4) exhaust port gaskets. Adab of grease will help hold the gaskets in place while you work. 5. Coat the exhaust studs and O 2 sensor threads with high temperature anti-seize compound. 6. Install the TBR headers into the exhaust ports making sure to get a good seat onto the exhaust port gaskets. Next, install the header nuts starting at the rear/outside stud and working your way forward on the outside set of studs. Once that is finished repeat along the inside set of studs. Tighten header nuts only finger tight at this point. 7. Be sure to coat the threads of the sensor with the included packet of hi-temp anti-seize. Install the O 2 sensor into the TBR headers. Turning the sensor in the counterclockwise direction a few times then screwing it clockwise to install will help make it easier to install and prevent the wire from binding. 8. Place a bead of the hi-temp sealant on the outside edge of the headers that goes into the canister. Slide the TBR canister onto the end of the S-bend pipe. Wipe off the excess sealant that will squeeze out. 9. Carefully slide the muffler clamp over the muffler. ( Note: The stainless steel canister clamp and the name badge on the canister come from the factory with a clear plastic protective film. Please remove this film before operation.) Attach it to the canister support bracket using the stock BMWhardware. Both tabs of the canister clamp should be located on the inside of the canister support bracket. Leave loose for the moment. 10. Make sure everything is lined up and start to evenly tighten up the header nuts to BMWfactory torque specification. Tighten the canister support hardware and install the springs as well. 11. Start the bike and check for leaks around the exhaust ports and the header/canister junction. 12. Reinstall the lower fairing

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HONDA FURY FRONT HEADPIPE W/HEATSHIELD, REAR HEADPIPE / MUFFLER W/HEATSHIELD INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 15-11-2010

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Remove your stock exhaust system and stock exhaust mount. Save the (4) acorn nuts that attach the headpipes to the cylinders for later use during installation. 2. Install exhaust mounting bracket onto outside of frame, where stock mounting bolts were removed, by inserting the supplied M10 x 70 mm bolt into the top mounting hole and the shorter M10 x 45 mm into the lower and thru the frame, see Figure 1. Start threading the supplied M10 Nylock nut onto lower and upper bolts but DO NOT FULLY TIGHTEN. 3. Loosen the right footpeg/floorboard assembly to help provide installation clearance for the front headpipe. 4. Slide the supplied exhaust flange over the front headpipe and bolt to cylinder using stock hardware from Step 1. DO NOT TIGHTEN at this time. 5. Place the supplied 27-61msc clamp onto the lower muffler slip collar then slide the rear headpipe / muffler assembly onto the front headpipe and into the rear exhaust port. Bolt rear headpipe to the rear cylinder using the stock acorn nuts from Step 1. See Figure 2 for clamp orientation. 6. Bolt the muffler assembly to the mounting bracket using the supplied 5/16 bolts. DO NOT TIGHTEN . 7. Make sure the front headpipe is inserted properly into the rear assembly and make sure the pipes are parallel with each other. Fully tighten the exhaust bracket to the frame first, then the front and rear cylinder acorn nuts attaching the exhaust flanges, then the muffler to the exhaust bracket. Then tighten the 27-61msc clamp last. (NOTE: If the muffler clamp is slid past the slots on the slip collar the clamp will not tighten properly.) 8. Unscrew the remaining hose clamps and feed the tail end of the clamp through the clips on the inside of the heatshields, the larger clamps go to the rear of the heatshields where they will rest on the muffler bodies, smaller ones to the front for the headpipes. The screw end of the hose clamp should be accessible for tightening but not visible when heatshields are mounted to the pipes, see Figure 3. 9. To install the front heatshield, first slide the rear portion of the heatshield over the muffler, continue to slowly slide it forward pushing the front of the shield gently into place between the frame and motor (Hint: Spread the hose clamps apart slightly to make it easier to slide them over the muffler assembly and headpipes). Make sure the muffler clamp doesn’t interfere with the heatshields and is aligned as shown in Figure 2. Snug the heatshield clamps but DO NOT TIGHTEN . 10. Install the rear heatshield in the same manor as the front heatshield. Tighten all hose clamps.

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