Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 15-03-2011
MASTER CYLINDER REMOVAL See Figure 1. Master cylinders designed for dual disc (two caliper) operation have an 11/16 inch (17.5 mm) bore, while those that are designed for single disc (one caliper) operation have a 9/16 inch (14.3 mm) bore. The bore size is stamped (1) on the master cylinder assembly inboard of the handlebar clamp bracket. NOTE Do not use an 9/16 inch bore master cylinder assembly on dual disc (two caliper) models or dual disc 11/16 inch bore master cylinder assembly on single disc (one caliper) models. These master cylinder assemblies are not interchangeable. Using the wrong assembly can adversely affect braking efficiency or result in brake failure which could result in death or serious injury. D.O.T. 4 brake fluid will damage painted and body panel surfaces it comes in contact with. Always use caution and protect surfaces from spills whenever brake work is performed. Failure to comply can result in cosmetic damage. (00239b) 1 is 01230 1. Bore stamp size location Figure 1. Verify Correct Master Cylinder Bore Size 1. Open bleeder nipple caps on front brake caliper. Install end of a length of clear plastic tubing over caliper bleeder valves, while placing free end in a suitable container. Open bleeder valves about 1/2-turn. Pump brake hand lever to drain brake fluid. Close bleeder valve. Avoid leakage. Be sure gaskets, banjo bolt(s), brake line and master cylinder bore are clean and undamaged before assembly. (00322a) 2. Remove bolt and two steel/rubber washers to disconnect fitting of hydraulic brake line from master cylinder. Discard washers. Do not remove or install the master cylinder assembly without first positioning a 5/32-inch (4 mm) thick insert between the brake lever and lever bracket. Removing or installing the master cylinder assembly without the insert in place may result in damage to the rubber boot and plunger on the front stoplight switch. (00324a) 3. See Figure 2. Place the cardboard insert between the brake lever and lever bracket
Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 25-11-2010
1. See Figure 2. Drain the brake fluid. a. Open bleeder nipple cap on front brake caliper. b. Install end of a length of clear plastic tubing over caliper bleeder valve, while placing free end in a suitable container. c. Open bleeder valve about 1/2-turn. d. Pump brake hand lever to drain brake fluid. e. Remove cover. f. Close bleeder valve. Remove brake line components carefully. Damage to seating surfaces can cause leakage. (00320a) 2. Remove bolt and 2 steel/rubber washers to disconnect fitting of hydraulic brake line from master cylinder. Discard washers. Do not remove or install the master cylinder assembly without first positioning a 5/32-inch (4 mm) thick insert between the brake lever and lever bracket. Removing or installing the master cylinder assembly without the insert in place may result in damage to the rubber boot and plunger on the front stoplight switch. (00324a) is 01010 Figure 3. 5/32 in. (4 mm) Cardboard Insert 3. See Figure 3. Place the cardboard insert between the brake lever and lever bracket. 4. Using T27 TORX® drive head, remove the 2 screws with flat washers securing the handlebar clamp to the master cylinder housing. Remove the brake lever/master cylinder assembly and clamp from the handlebar. Wear safety glasses or goggles when removing or installing retaining rings. Retaining rings can slip from the pliers and could be propelled with enough force to cause serious eye injury. (00312a) 5. Remove retaining ring from pivot pin groove at bottom of master cylinder bracket. 6. Remove pivot pin and brake hand lever from master cylinder assembly. NOTE New master cylinder comes with all internal components preassembled. It is not necessary to remove the components from the bore of the old master cylinder. See Figure 9. Use denatured alcohol to clean clutch system components. Do not use mineral-based solvents (such as gasoline or paint thinner), which will deteriorate rubber parts even after assembly. Deterioration of these components can cause clutch failure, which could result in death or serious injury. (00296a) 7. With denatured alcohol, clean and inspect all parts that will be reused. Replace as necessary and wipe dry with a clean lint free cloth
Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 08-11-2010
Before starting to assemble this forward kit on your motorcycle check the packing list to make sure that the kit you received is the correct one for your model motorcycle and that the foot pegs are the style you ordered (billet or ISO). Next check the contents hardware kit P.N.0109-1000 against the packing list for completeness. Installing The Shift Control Photo 1 Remove wires from horn. Remove the two hex head bolts (Save for later installation) that mount the OEM shift controls to your motorcycle. Unthread stock shift rod at trans shift arm, leaving OEM rod end connected to stock shift arm. Using Original Metric hardware, place a drop of Loctite #242 (blue) to the bolt threads and mount the shift control plate to the motorcycle frame, Photo 2. FORWARD CONTROL KIT PM SHIFT CONTROL ASSEMBLY Note Before torquing the shift control mounting bolts down, tighten them snug and look behind the shift control mounting plate to where it contacts the mounting lug on the frame. Make sure it fits squarely to the lug before proceeding further. Torque the two shift control mounting bolts down to 25 ft-lb. Using a 3/8″ x 1″ hex head bolt with a lock and flat washer put a drop of Loctite #242 (blue) on the threads and insert the bolt through the rear of the control mounting plate and attach the foot-peg pivot to it. Tighten the bolt while holding the footpeg pivot so that its hinge is lined up in a 45˚ rear facing angle. Thread supplied shift rod coupler to stock shift rod end at trans arm. Mount the shift pedal to the other end of the shift ro d using a 5/16″ x 1″ socket head screw and Nylocnut . Adjust the transmission shift linkage so that the shift arm on the forward controls and the shift arm on the transmission are parallel. Secure it with the jam nuts. Apply a drop of Loctite #242 (blue) to the threads under the jam nut before tightening see Photo 3 After you have assembled the shift control onto your motorcycle you must align the footpeg. The folding footpeg assembly uses a blind stud to attach the footpeg to the footpeg pivot. Shim washers (3/8″ x .015″) are used on the stud between the footpeg and the pivot, see Photo 4, so that the top surface of the footpeg is correctly aligned for your foot when it is tightened down on the pivot. This is done by setting a couple of shim washers on the footpeg mounting stud “A” and then screwing the footpeg onto the mounting stud, if the footpeg is rotated to far forward then add another shim washer, if not far enough then remove a shim washer. After you have the selected the correct number of shims for your footpeg, disassemble the footpeg and put a drop of Loctite #271 (red) on both ends of the stud and reassemble the footpeg. This will also need to be done on the brake control footpeg. Setting Up the Master Cylinder The master cylinder pushrod return spring and pushrod boot must be installed on the master cylinder before it is assembled onto the forward control mount. The parts are shown in Photo 5: pushrod boot (A), pushrod return spring (B), spring seat washer (C), and master cylinder (D). Place the return spring seat washer into bore of master cylinder so that is sits on top of the piston retaining snap ring. Next set the pushrod return spring on the seat washer and slide the pushrod boot over the return spring now slip the big end of the boot over the flange on the master cylinder so that the ridge on the inside of the boot fits into groove “A” that is machined into the end of the master cylinder flange, see Photo 6. Installing The Brake Control Unplug stock brake light switch at master cylinder. Remove brake line from rear caliper. Remove the existing brake controls from your motorcycle down to the control mounting lug that is welded on to the frame’s right side, see Photo 8. Save Metric hardware for later use. A Shim Washer PHOTO 4 A B C D PHOTO 5 A PHOTO 6 PHOTO 7 Note For complete brake system removal instructions and precau – tions refer to the appropriate service manual for your year and model motorcycle
Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 02-03-2011
THE WASHING PROCESS Allow the motorcycle to cool to the touch. Cool water can damage a hot motorcycle. 1. Pre-Wash: a. Verify the motorcycle is cool to the touch. b. Rinse the motorcycle from the bottom up. c. Verify you have the proper cleaning supplies. d. Spray on Bug Remover and let the product activate while proceeding to the next step. 2. Wheels and Tires: a. Rinse wheel and tire surfaces. b. Apply Wheel and Tire Cleaner. c. Wait one minute after spraying product. d. Clean wheel with a Soft Detailing Pad or Wheel and Spoke Brush. e. Rinse well. 3. The Wash: a. Have two buckets; one for the cleaner and one for rinsing. b. Pour Sunwash into the Harley-Davidson Cleaning Bucket and fill with water. c. Fill the rinsing bucket with clean, plain water. d. Soak the Wash Mitt in the Sunwash solution. e. Wash all surfaces from the top working down. f. Rinse from the bottom up first. g. End with top down rinse. 4. Drying the Motorcycle: a. Use the Soft Drying Towel to dry surfaces of the motorcycle. b. Dampen the towel in clean water. c. Wring out the towel as often as needed and continue until the surface is completely dry. 5. The Polish and Seal : (not applicable for denim paint finishes) Polishing and sealing isn’t just about good looks . A well cared-for motorcycle repels dust, dirt, bugs and dirty water. a. Use Harley Glaze polish and sealant and follow the instructions on the bottle. b. Use Softcloth disposable towels for application. c. A Softcloth or Microfiber detailing cloth is an absolute must for finish buffing. d. In between Harley Glaze applications, use Harley Spray Cleaner and Polish and Harley Gloss to maintain shine and protection of painted and chrome fin- ishes.
Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 28-10-2010
Installation of an S&S Super Stock cylinder head kit is easy and can be performed by any Harley-Davidson®repair shop equipped to do engine overhauls. No special tools other than those used in normal overhaul repair work are required. Read instructions thoroughly before starting work. When they are completely understood proceed with installation. 1. Remove Components and Inspect Parts Follow procedures outlined in appropriate Harley-Davidson® service manual to prepare motorcycle for top end service. NOTE: Disconnect batteryand drain all gasoline from gas tanks beforedoing any work. Gasoline is extremely flammable and explosive under certain conditions and toxic when breathed. Do not smoke. Perform installation in a well ventilated area away from open flames or sparks. A. Remove gas tanks and all other parts required to perform top end service. B. Remove carburetor, rocker covers, pushrods and pushrod tube assemblies, cylinder heads and cylinders. Also remove piston rings from piston. Do not remove pistons. NOTE: Be careful not to introduce any dirt or other foreign material into crankcase during disassembly of engine. Metal filings, dirtand any other foreign contamination in engine may cause premature wear and/or irreversible damage to bearings and other internal engine components. C. Thoroughly clean and inspect all parts that are to be reused. Any parts that show signs of wear or damage should be replaced. WARNING CAUTION 2. Check Piston Alignment in Cylinder Bore The purpose of this procedure is to check for and correct possible piston misalignment in the cylinder bore. During normal manufacturing, engine components such as crankcases, cylinders, and connecting rods can be machined to dimensions within factory specifications but on the extreme ends of the tolerance range. Sometimes these components when combined together form an assembly that is borderline or actually “out of print”. The worst result isthat the pistons can run cocked in the cylinder bores causing the connecting rods to thrust to the sides exerting unnecessary stress on the pistons, rings, rod bearings and other related parts. This procedure is not the same as blue printing, but it provides almost the same result. We feel that not enough emphasis is given to checking the piston alignment in the cylinder bore.