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YAMAHA Road Star Fuel Pump Relocation Kit INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 08-11-2010

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1. Remove seat and disconnect battery. Remove fuel tank along with both left and right side battery covers, and remove air box from carburetor (all per Yamaha standard shop manual procedures). 2. Remove chrome plastic cover over fuel pump and disconnect choke cable/knob from lower pump bracket. Remove pump-to-carb fuel line from fuel pump. Disconnect fuel pumps electrical lead connector. 3. Remove two (2) hex-head pump mounting bracket bolts and remove pump assembly from motorcycle. Slide fuel pump up and off bracket mounting posts (Caution: excess fuel may drain from pump and/or fuel lines and fuel filter!). Remove heat shield. Remove remaining fuel line from pump. Pull all fuel lines from filter and remove steel springs and hose clamps from these lines (these will be reused on the kits fuel lines). With a sharp knife or box cutter, trim off the top portion of the fuel pumps rubber isolation/mount system per Photo A. Next cut pumps wiring harness approximately half way between connector and pump. Strip the insulation from the ends of these wires as well as from the supplied Baron harness extension wires. Using the supplied electrical butt connectors, crimp Baron harness extensions red wire to pumps black-w/blue-strip wire, and Baron harness extensions black wire to pumps black wire. Repeat this process on other side of wire harness extension with pumps connector. Now, referring to Photo B, you will need to cut off the square tube that runs along the side of the fuel pump with a hack saw. Cut down toward pump body in a straight cut, then cut tube off by cutting along the body. This will allow you to twist pump in the rubber mount so the curved spigot is facing up (clockwise approx 1/4 turn). 4. Remove pump-to-carb fuel line from carb and separate electrical wires from this line. Remove this fuel line from engine. Re-route choke cable to right side of engine (toward carb) and rotate it up and over rear cylinder head back toward left side of bike. Mount new Baron choke bracket to the choke cable and tighten plastic nut. New choke bracket will mount to rear fuel tank mounting location (Photo C). 5. 99~03 models – Remove electrical relay bracket (found under the right side cover) from the bike and slide each relay off of this bracket. Install fuel pump onto new Baron Fuel Pump Bracket and install bracket in the same location as the stock bracket you just removed, using stock mounting hardware. Refer to Photo F for proper installation. 6. 04~07 models Remove electrical relays from stock bracket and remove relays from rubber holder. Cut rubber holder per Photo E and replace one of the relays into the rubber and install on to new Baron bracket. The second relay will be placed to the right of the tool bag under the seat and secured with the provided two-sided tape pad. Reconnect plugs to the relays. (Photo F)

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Aprilia RSV4 Exhaust Systems Installation instructions

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Filed Under (Aprilia) by admin on 26-10-2010

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REMOVAL OF STOCK EXHAUST SYSTEM 1. 2. 5 Figure 3 Figure 4 Remove the metal collar and rubber damper from the stock muffler hanging bracket (Figure 3, 4). 3. 6 Unscrew the marked bolts and remove the plastic fasteners from the left and right side of the cowling (Figure 5, 6). 4. Figure 5 Figure 6 7 Unscrew the marked bolts and remove the lower part of the cowling (Figure 7). 5. Figure 7
8 Figure 8 Figure 9 Coat the bolt and interior of the metal clamp with spring hook whit Akrapovič anti-seize lead-free copper paste (black tube) and correctly install it onto the stock collector. Hand tighten the bolt (Figure 9, 10). WARNING: use anti-seize copper paste on bolt threads and interior of the metal clamp! 2. 1. Coat the bolt and interior of the metal clamp with Akrapovič antiseize lead-free copper paste (black tube) and correctly install it onto the link pipe (Figure 8). WARNING: use anti-seize copper paste on bolt threads and interior of the metal clamp

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HONDA CB1000R AKRAPOVIC SLIP-ON EXHAUST SYSTEM REMOVAL And Installation instructions

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 01-11-2010

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1. Put the motorcycle on a side stand, we recommend a racing stand. Make sure, that surface is solid and flat. 2. Untighten the bolt on the metal clamp at the muffler – collector joint, unscrew the bolts from the muffler brackets, and remove the muffler (Figure 1, 2, 3, 4). T-handle 8mm wrench T-handle 12mm wrench T-handle 13mm wrench T-handle 10mm swiveling wrench T-handle 12mm swiveling wrench T-handle 3mm three hexagon key wrench T-handle 5mm three hexagon key wrench T-handle 8mm three hexagon key wrench Combination 13mm wrench Combination 17mm wrench Spring puller Figure 1 Figure 2 Figure 3 Figure 4
NAV – 401 3 Figure 7 Figure 8 Figure 9 Figure 10 3. Remove the metal collar and the rubber damper from the lower stock muffler bracket (Figure 5, 6). 4. For open slip-on only: for easier dismount of stock collector unscrew the bolt from the water cooler hanging bracket and slightly remove the cooler – do not disconnect the cooling system tubes! (Figure 7) , loosen the header tubes flanges (Figure 8) , untighten the bolts of the metal clamps A from stock collector – header tubes joint and then unscrew the bolt from the collector bracket (Figure 9, 10). Make sure not to damage the cooling fins of the cooler during this process. Figure 5 Figure 6
NAV – 401 4 5. For open slip-on only: Unscrew the lambda sensor and remove the stock collector (Figure 11, 12). Remove the metal collar and the rubber dampers from the stock collector bracket (Figure 13). INSTALLATION OF THE AKRAPOVIC SLIP-ON EXHAUST SYSTEM: 1. Unsrew the bolts and remove the right foot peg. Assemble the additional Akrapovic metal bracket, reinstall the foot peg and tighten the bolts (Figure 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19)

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Express ATVS -250cc Cobra Setup/ Installation Manual

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Filed Under (Cobra) by admin on 10-11-2010

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Unpacking your Cobra Installing the front shock Installing the front tires Installing rear shocks Installing the rear tires Installing seats and harnesses Steering wheel installation Roll cage installation Safety checks / Adjustments General maintenance Unpacking your Cobra First off you should pull the carton off from your new 250 Cobra cart. Inspect the cart thoroughly to make sure that your new Cobra has not been heavily damaged. You will notice that the product has a metal frame holding it in place; you may want to start removing bolts from the shipping steel frame. The next step is to remove the metal frame and lift it off of the cart. Remove any of the metal frame that may afford resistance when working on the cart it self. Be careful the metal frame may be heavy and sharp. Now would also be a good time to inspect your Cobra a little more thoroughly. In the box with the Cobra you should have found a box containing miscellaneous hardware. Installing the front shock Using some of the bolts you found in your box, install the front shocks sliding the bolt through the brackets and tighten the nut down. Next, you will need to place the ball head into the turning arm, then tighten the castle nut and insert a cotter pin so that the castle nut doesn’t loosen and become a hazard. Installing the front tires
Find the front tires and place them on the front hub and place the lug nuts on the studs. Tighten them down. Make sure that all of the lug nuts are on tightly. Installing the rear shocks Moving to the rear of the Cobra you will notice the rear shocks are not inserted. Place the rear shocks into the bracket on the rear of the Cobra. Slide one of the provided bolts through the bracket and shock eyelet and tighten the bolt down. Installing the rear tires Now that the shocks have been placed properly you can install the rear tires, place the tires onto the axle then place the rear rim lined up onto the axle and tighten the provided castle nut down. Place the cotter pin through the axle and bend off to the side. This is so the castle nut does not loosen under load. Installing the seats and harnesses
(The arrow points to an example of where the seat bolts mount) Find the two racing seats shipped in the box with the Cobra. You will need to affix them to the frame by sliding the bolts up through the bottom of the frame. This can be tricky so have patience. Once both seats have been placed in the cart and tightened find the harnesses. Once found the harnesses mount to a bracket behind the seats. Place a bolt through the bracket and bolt the harnesses down tightly. Installing the steering wheel Find the steering wheel and place it onto the steering wheel mount. Grab the six small screws and place them through the steering wheel and mount, tighten them down but also make sure the top of the wheel is facing up. Installing the roll cage

Harley- Davidson Bagger Audio factory service manual for removal

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 03-04-2012

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POWER & SPEAKER HARNESS INSTALLATION- (Read electrical connections prior to connecting center power and ground wires) 1. Disconnect battery (negative cable first!) 2. Remove outer faring cover 3. Route long speaker wires from fairing area through tank channel to seat area. 4. Route one pair of speaker wires under each fender strut support; purple and purple and black wires to the right and green and green and black wires to the left. AMPLIFIER INSTALLATION- 1. Factory installed electronics will determine suggested placement of amplifier. 2. Position and attach amplifier to outer fairing support bars with supplied wire ties. (Electra/Ultra/Street Glide) BAGGER AUDIO™ LIDS INSTALLATION- Detach factory lid by removing the 2 screws holding the factory strap to inner lid and 5 small torque screws holding lid to factory latch assembly. (Consult factory service manual for further instructions) Remove metal strap from behind factory seal (This is the metal strap that the previous 5 small torque screws were removed from) Position metal strap in same location on your new lid. (If you purchased your product unpainted, you must install the supplied seal to your finished lid) Reattach BAGGER AUDIO™ LIDS by installing the 5 small torque screws in the same location as on the factory lid. (We suggest that you have an assistant hold the lid in place while attaching your new lids) Replace factory nylon Hinge straps with new nylon straps supplied in kit. Use metal straps and machined screws to secure the nylon hinge straps. 
 Place a small bead of silicone on the inside rim of the speaker basket to create a watertight seal between the inside of the lid and the speaker. 
 Install speaker into the bottom of the lid (not through the top opening) with supplied stainless screws and washers (4 per lid). Be sure to center speaker in lid opening to ensure proper speaker grill placement. Install speaker with terminals facing toward the front of the lid. One 1/4″ hole must be drilled in each bag. Holes can be positioned at the ownerʼs discretion. Place rubber grommet in drilled hole before running wires

HONDA CBR 1000 RR AKRAPOVIC SLIP-ON & SLIP-ON STREET LEGAL EXHAUST SYSTEM REPAIR

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 17-11-2011

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INSTALLATION OF THE AKRAPOVIC SLIP-ON STREET LEGAL SYSTEMbinstalling the independent link pipe:m1. onto the stock collector properly install the metal ring for attaching the spring (Figure 27, 28) 2. install the metal clamp onto the Akrapovic independent link pipe (Figure 29) 3. slide the Akrapovic independent link pipe onto the stock collector; do not tighten the metal clamp (Figure 30) 4. attach the spring (Figure 31) 5. make sure the link pipe is not touching the frame and other parts installing the muffler: 1. correctly position the carbon-fiber clamp and slide it onto the muffler. WARNING: open the clamp to slightly wider than the diameter of the outer sleeve of the muffler – do not scrape it along the muffler outer sleeve! Do not fully tighten the bolts of the clamp (Figure 32) 2. position the muffler correctly and slide it onto the outlet side of the link pipe (Figure 33) 3. position and attach the springs (Figure 34) 4. tighten the carbon-fiber clamp onto the stock chassis hanging bracket on the frame (both sides of the motorcycle (Figure 35, 36, 37) 5. tighten the metal clamp at the independent link pipe – stock collector connection (Figure 38) 6. tighten the bolts of the carbon-fiber clamp. 7. reattach the stock heat shield (Figure 39, 40)8. reattach the rider’s footrest bracket (Figure 41) 9. make sure the muffler is not touching other parts of the motorcycle 10. reattach the license plate holder and turn signal lamps (Figure42, 43)11. reconnect the electrical leads for the rear light and reattach the fastback and both seats

Kawasaki Vulcan Front Suspension Lowering Kit Installation manual

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 27-02-2011

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INSTALLATION 1. This lowering method requires replacement of the front spring spacers. This is a simple task, and is completely reversible. First, raise the front tire off of the ground before you begin. Raise the motorcycle so no weight is applied to the front wheel. 2. Cover the gas tank with a thick towel to prevent scratching. Don’t omit this…you’ll be sorry if you do! 3. If the handlebar risers are OEM (stock), loosen the handlebars in their clamps and lift them from the risers, carefully placing them on the gas tank on a thick towel to prevent scratching. This will allow room for the spring spacers to be removed from the front forks. 4. Using a small knife blade, sharp screw driver, etc. in the pinch grove on each side of the triple clamp, gently pry upwards and pop the chromed plastic covers off. These are the covers on the top of the front forks, covering the spring retainers. Below these chrome caps, you’ll find a gold anodized metal plug with a small counter bore in the center. This is the part used to retain the springs within the front fork tubes. Using an extension bar, large Phillips screwdriver, etc., press down a bit in the counter bored area of the plug to take the pressure off of the small internal “C” ring. While this “gold” colored plug is depressed, remove the internal C-ring. The C-ring is made of small diameter wire. Once the C-ring is removed, slowly release the pressure on the plug and it’ll push itself out of the top of the shock. The picture below is of the upper fork leg with the gold retaining plug removed. 5. Stick a finger into the fork tube, and slide the OEM tubular spacer up and out of the fork tube. 6. The picture below illustrates the use of a Scootworks lowering spacer with the fork spring. On the right hand end of the you’ll see a Scootworks lowering spacer. The fork spring stays in the front fork, and you’ll drop in the spacer with the desired amount of lowering. The approximate amount of lowering is marked on each Scootworks spacer. 7. Select the spacers for the desired amount of lowering. The longest spacers supplied are marked as [1] and will lower the front suspension 1″. The spacers of middle length are marked as [2] and will lower the front suspension by 2″. The shortest spacers supplied in the kit are marked as [3] and will lower the front suspension by 3″. Omission of the spacers completely will lower the front suspension by approximately 4″. 8. Install the selected spacers in the fork tubes, on top of the internal fork spring. Place the gold anodized metal plugs on top of the spacers and press them back into the fork tube. Be sure to turn the metal plug so the side with the counter bore is facing outwards. Reinstall the C-rings, and gently lower the front end back to the ground. Make sure the C-rings seat themselves in their respective grooves when the weight of the bike is placed back on the front end. Re-install the chrome caps.

Honda GL1000/1100 starter motor Removal/ Over haul Manual

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 08-04-2011

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1. Remove the three long bolts that hold the sections together and separate them. Be careful as there are a series of flat thrust washers on each end of the armature (located in the middle section). 2. The end cap basically performs no function other than to cover the brush plate and commutator area as well as center the armature shaft in a pressed in bushing located in the end of the cap. 3. The drive end contains the reduction gearing and if need be, can be disassembled to replace the bearing. This is extremely unlikely. The shaft should turn freely and normally only requires a cleaning and grease application. If the bearing in fact needs replacing, simply remove the “C” clips on either end, drive out the bearing and reinstall with an appropriate size replacement. Any decent auto parts / industrial supply should be able to supply the correct bearing. 4. Remove the brush plate from the end of the center section by removing the screw at the one brush connection. Before removing the brushes, note that one of them has an insulating sleeve over the braided wire. The replacement must go in the same brush holder. Remove the brushes and replace if necessary and clean the brush plate. ** Brake Cleaner is a good general cleaner for this entire job. 5. Remove the thrust washers from brush plate end of the armature. Count them and ensure they go back on the correct way. 6. The end of the center section that had the drive end on it has a circular plate covering it with a short splined shaft protruding through the plate. Drive the plate out by tapping the opposite end of the section on the shaft – just lightly with a rubber hammer or piece of wood to protect the shaft. Once the plate is out, remove the armature from the section. You will find more thrust washers at this end. Make sure they go back on correctly. 7. In the center of the center section there are four large Philips screws. These hold in the field coils found within the housing. Using an “impact driver”, loosen the four screws that go around the circumference of the center section and remove them. Remove the 10mm nut for the battery connection and the accompanying fiber insulating washers. With the screws and nut removed, the entire field coil assembly should withdraw entirely from the housing. There will be four (4) metal plates that the screws mounted into come falling out. They are easily replaced into the field coils when you slide it back into the housing. Do not be alarmed that you suddenly have four loose metal parts. 8. With everything out of the housing, thoroughly clean everything using the Brake Cleaner. Although the cleaner will dry without leaving a film, it is suggested that the components be dried with compressed air. 9. Get some extremely fine steel wool (“000″ of even “0000″ is better) and gently clean the metal surfaces or bars of the armature and the commutator. Blow with compressed air. 10. Using a volt/ohmeter, test for continuity between pairs of armature bars (the long ones). There should be continuity between the pairs around the entire circumference.

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HARLEY DAVIDSON FXR BADLANDER CUSTOM SEAT INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 01-02-2011

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This kit is designed for installation on 1982 and later FXR model vehicles.installation 1 CAUTION When performing the following procedures, be cautious not to scratch painted surfaces (fender, tank, etc.) with metal tabs on seat. 1. Remove existing seat from motorcycle. Discard rear mounting hardware (screw, lockwasher and nylon washer). 2. Remove grab strap from vehicle and discard. 3. Locate seat bracket from kit. Remove two mounting screws securing rear portion of tank to motorcycle frame. Discard screw, but save washers. 4. Install seat bracket from kit onto motorcycle at tank mounting tab location, using two hex cap screws from kit and washers removed in Step 3. 5. See Figure 1. Locate grab strap (1) from kit. Bring the two ends of grab strap (1) around the top and outside of frame (2) so that end of grab strap can be joined under seat. 6. See Figure 1. Line up two holes on one end of grab strap with two hole in opposite end of grab strap. Place one metal washer (3) from kit over end of flange screw (4) from kit. Insert screw (4) through one set of holes in grab strap (1). Place one remaining metal washer (3) over end of flange screw (4). Tighten assembly together using locknut (5) from kit. 7. Locate battery mounting tab (6) on motorcycle. Loosen locknut (7) and back out hex head screw (8) from frame until remaining joined holes in grab strap (1) can be slipped into position over end of screw (8). Re-tighten screw (8) and locknut (7). 8. Carefully slip seat into position (without scratching tank or fender) under grab strap and engage mounting tab on front of seat with mounting bracket installed at tank mounting tab. 9. Secure rear of seat using truss head screw with lockwasher and guide washer (placed between seat bracket and fender) from kit. The guide washer will center the screw in the seat bracket hole and serve as a washer to protect the fender

DUCATI MONSTER S4R And DUCATI MONSTER S2R EXHAUST SYSTEM Installation instructions

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Filed Under (Ducati) by admin on 26-10-2010

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REMOVAL OF STOCK EXHAUST SYSTEM: 1. Put the motorcycle on a side stand, we recommend a racing stand. Make sure, that surface is solid and flat. 2. Remove stock heat shields (Figure 1, 2) 3. Unscrew the bolts from the metal clamps at the muffler – collector joints (Figure 3, 4). T-handle 10mm wrench T-handle 12mm wrench T-handle 13mm wrench T-handle 3mm three hexagon key wrench T-handle 5mm three hexagon key wrench Combination 13mm wrench Spring puller Figure 1 Figure 2 Figure 3 Figure 4
NAV – 124 3 Figure 10 Figure 7 Figure 8 4. Unscrew the bolt from the muffler chassis hanging bracket and remove both mufflers with link pipes (Figure 5, 6). INSTALLATION OF THE AKRAPOVIC SLIP-ON EXHAUST SYSTEM: 1. Slide the link pipes onto the stock collector (Figure 7) hand tighten the metal clamps at the Akrapovic link pipe – stock collector joints; coat the interior side of the metal clamps and the clamp bolts with Akrapovic anti-seizing copper paste (black tube) (Figure 8). 2. Install Akrapovic carbon-fiber chassis hanging bracket (Figure 9, 10). 22Nm 16ftlb Figure 5 Figure 6 Figure 9 NAV – 124 4 Figure 15 3. Position the muffler correctly and slide it onto the outlet side of the link pipes and attach the springs; WARNING! make sure, that springs pull the muffler all the way onto the link pipes – use rubber mallet if necessary to tap the connections into place! (Figure 11, 12). 4. Correctly position the carbon-fiber clamp and slide it onto the muffler – bear in mind the left offset of the carbon-fiber clamp viewed from the rear. WARNING: open the clamp slightly wider than the diameter of the outer sleeve of the muffler – do not scrape it along the muffler outer sleeve! (Figure 13). Tighten the carbon-fiber clamp onto the Akrapovic carbon- fiber chassis hanging bracket (Figure 14, 15). Make sure the link pipes or muffler are not touching the frame or any other part of the motorcycle.

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