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HARLEY DAVIDSON SOFTAIL SPROCKET KIT INSTALLATION NOTES

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 29-01-2011

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NORMAL TOOTH WARRANTY This extended warranty applies only to the normal wear that will occur to the tooth profile geometry on the rear belt sprocket. Normal wear is considered wear that occurs when the protective hard coating has worn away exposing the underlying aluminum, changing the profile of the sprocket tooth significantly. Warranty is for five years from date of purchase with unlimited mileage. Warranty claims will require a dated receipt showing proof of purchase from an authorized Harley-Davidson Dealer. Warranty only applies to original purchaser of the sprocket. Original owners name must appear on the receipt. All applications of the sprocket require installation of upper and lower original equipment belt guard, or Harley-Davidson accessory belt guards where applicable. Warranty is voided if these items are not installed. Excessive chips found in the tooth profile due to abnormal riding conditions will void warranty. Occasional chips in the tooth are to be considered normal and should not be considered a warranty issue. Decorative external chrome carries the standard parts and accessories 90 day warranty. Staking the flange on the backside of the sprocket will pierce through the chrome, this is to be considered a normal process and should not be considered an issue. All warranty claims must be pursued through your authorized Harley-Davidson Dealer

HARLEY DAVIDSON STREAMLINER FOOTPEG KIT INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 29-01-2011

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NORMAL TOOTH WARRANTY This extended warranty applies only to the normal wear that will occur to the tooth profile geometry on the rear belt sprocket. Normal wear is considered wear that occurs when the protective hard coating has worn away exposing the underlying aluminum, changing the profile of the sprocket tooth significantly. Warranty is for five years from date of purchase with unlimited mileage. Warranty claims will require a dated receipt showing proof of purchase from an authorized Harley-Davidson Dealer. Warranty only applies to original purchaser of the sprocket. Original owners name must appear on the receipt. All applications of the sprocket require installation of upper and lower original equipment belt guard, or Harley-Davidson accessory belt guards where applicable. Warranty is voided if these items are not installed. Excessive chips found in the tooth profile due to abnormal riding conditions will void warranty. Occasional chips in the tooth are to be considered normal and should not be considered a warranty issue. Decorative external chrome carries the standard parts and accessories 90 day warranty. Staking the flange on the backside of the sprocket will pierce through the chrome, this is to be considered a normal process and should not be considered an issue. All warranty claims must be pursued through your authorized Harley-Davidson Dealer

1998 BMW R1100RT LCD Temperature Gauge Scale Calibration LCD Fuel Gauge Calibration Fuel Sender Testing and Cleaning

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Filed Under (BMW) by admin on 26-10-2010

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Oil Temperature and Gauge 2.1. Introduction My 1998 BMW R1100RT came with an LCD temperature gauge that shows horizontal black bars in a vertical motif, to indicate temperature. This is difficult to interpret at speed (how many bars are exposed?) and does not actually tell me what the oil temperature is. 2.2. Normal Operation The bike seems to run at 5 or six bars under normal conditions. It appears that the oil thermostat for the cooler is set to ’5 bars’. 2.3. Over Heating The LCD panel indicates that 8 bars is the maximum normal operating temperature. It would be useful to know what the actual temperature is. Modern oils have a normal operating temperature of approximately 110 degrees Celsius and will not show any serious degradationii at this temperature. The maximum sustained operating temperature (at the bearing surface) is approximately 130 degrees Celsius for any oil formulated in the past 5 years and some high performance synthetics will not appreciably degrade even at this temperature. However, the degradation curve is a polynomial and degradation will increase rapidly with increasing temperature. According to the oil’s formulation (pure synthetics will show the least increase with temperature), by approximately 160 degrees Celsius (or about 300 degrees Fahrenheit), oil degradation can be up to 10 times faster then at 110 Deg. C. 2.4. Scale To fix the ‘number of bars’ problem, I determined that an overlay with numbers would be the best idea. 2.4.1. Addendum The number scale became too much to maintain. Rather than this, I cut a mm or so wide stripe out of the self sticking stripping meant for the side of a car. Using a red material, I put it through the middle of the fifth bar of both the temperature and fuel display. The stripe is slightly smaller than the thickness of the bar. This allows me to tell when I am at normal operating temperature and when approximately half a tank is used

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HONDA CRF250X OWNER'S MANUAL

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 01-12-2010

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Always follow the proper starting procedure described below. Your motorcycle can be kickstarted wirh the transmission in gear by pulling in the clutch lever before operating the kickstarter. Preparation Make sure that the transmission is in neutral. Turn the fuel valve ON. Fuel Valve Starting Procedure Always follow the proper starting procedure described as follow. 4. Warm up the engine; don’t operate the throttle. 5. About 15 seconds after the engine startes, push the choke knob back all the way to fully OFF. If idling is unstable, open the throttle slightly. Extended use of the choke may impair piston and cylinder wall lubrication and damage the engine. High Air Temperature 35°C (95°F) or above 1. Do not use the choke. 2. Keep the throttle fully closed. 3. Start the engine following step 3 under Normal Air Temperature. Low Air Temperature 10°C (50°) or below 1. Follow steps 1-4 under Normal Air Temperature. 2. Continue warming up the engine until it runs smoothly and responds to the throttle when the choke knob is pushed back all the way to fully OFF. Extended use of the choke may impair piston and cylinder wall lubrication and damage the engine. Hot Engine Starting 1. Pull the hot start lever (3) and start the engine following step 3 under Normal Air Temperature. 2. As soon as the engine starts, release the hot start lever. NOTICE NOTICE Basic Operating Instructions 15 (1) fuel valve The three-way fuel valve is used to control the flow of fuel from the fuel tank to the carburetor. ON -Turning the fuel valve ON before attempting to start the engine allows fuel to flow from the fuel tank to the carburetor. OFF -Turning the fuel valve OFF after stopping the engine prevents the flow of fuel from the fuel tank to the carburetor. RES -Turning the fuel valve to RES allows fuel to flow from the reserve fuel supply to the carburetor. (1) fuel valve (2) choke knob Check the engine oil, transmission oil and coolant levels before starting the engine (pages 44,47,48). To restart a warm engine, follow the procedure for ”High Air Temperature. ” Normal Air Temperature 10°C-35°C (50°F-95°F) 1. Pull the choke knob (2) up all the way to fully ON, if the engine is cold. 2. Keep the throttle fully closed. 3. Pull the clutch lever all the way in, and press the starter button with the throttle completely closed. Or operate the kickstarter to start the engine. Starting from the top of the stroke, kick through to the bottom with a rapid, continuous motion. Do not operate the throttle. Allowing the kickstarter to snap back freely against the pedal stop can damage the engine case.

BMW F 650CS Scarver Specifications

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Filed Under (BMW) by admin on 28-10-2010

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Motor Type Water cooled, single cylinder, 4 stroke Bore x Stroke 100 x 83 mm (3.93 x 3.26 in) Capacity 652 cc Rated Output 50 bhp (37 KW) at 6,800 rpm (performance reduction 34 bhp (25 Kw at 6,500 rpm possible) Max Torque 62 Nm (46 ft lb) at 5,500 rpm (performance reduction: 50 Nm (37 ft lb) at 3,500 rpm) Compression Ratio 11.5 : 1 Valves Per Cylinder 4 Valve Control DOHC Mixture Control/Engine Management Electronic intake pipe injection / BMW engine management Emission Control Closed loop 3 way catalytic converter Fuel type Unleaded regular grade fuel, minimum octane rating 91 (RON) Power Transmission Clutch Multiple disc clutch in oil bath, mechanically operated Gearbox Constant mesh 5 speed gearbox integrated in the crankcase Gearbox Ratio’s 2.750 / 1.750 / 1.310 / 1.050 / 0.840 : 1 Final Drive 2.94 : 1 Drive Belt Drive with jerk damper in it’s own casing Electrical System Ignition Electronic ignition Alternator 400 W three phase alternator
Battery 12V / 12 ah Chassis Type of Frame Bridging frame consisting of steel profiles with integrated oil tank and rear frame fastened with screws Front wheel suspension Telescopic fork, stanchion diameter 41 mm, fork stabiliser Rear wheel suspension Die cast aluminium single side swinging arm with rear wheel axle adjustable via Excenter, central strut controlled by means of lever system Travel Front/Rear 125 / 120 mm (4.92 x 4.72 in) Wheels Die cast aluminium wheels Wheel Rims, Front 3.00 x 17 Wheel Rims, Rear 4.50 x 17 Tyres, Front 110/70 x ZR 17 Tyres, Rear 160/60 x ZR 17 Brakes, Front Single disc brake , diameter 300 mm (11.8 in), double piston floating caliper Brakes, Rear Single disc brake, diameter 240 mm (9.45 in), 1 piston floating caliper ABS Special equipment BMW Motorrad ABS Dimensions/Weights Length x Width x Height 2142 x 915 (inc. mirrors) x 1158 (not inc. mirrors) (84.33 x 36 x 45.59 in) Wheel Base (in normal position) 1493 mm (58.78 in) Seat Height 780 mm (30.7 in) (special equipment low seat height: 750 mm (29.5 in), 150 series rear tyres; special equipment high seat bench: 810 mm (31.89 in)) Castor (in normal position) 123.3 Steering Head Angle (in normal position) 86 degrees Unladen Weight with Full Tank 187 Kg / 412 lb Dry Weight 169.6 Kg / 373 lb Permitted Total Weight 370 Kg / 815 lb Payload (with standard equipment) 183 Kg / 403 lb Fuel Consumption over 100 Km @ constant 90Kph 3.0 litres / 94 mpg / 78 mpg US

2008 – 2009 APRILIA DORSODURO 750 SLIP-ON STREEL LEGAL EXHAUST SYSTEM

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Filed Under (Aprilia) by admin on 06-11-2010

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Our sporty and lightweight SLIP-ON systems offer a great balance between price and performance and represent the first step in the exhaust system tuning process. The change will be also visual as our HEXAGONAL mufflers perfectly fit the exterior line of the sporty Dorsoduro and add a clean racing image. The muffler outer sleeve is made of titanium, which gives a special hi-tech touch to our SLIP-ON system. We offer street legal version with removable muffler in- serts. PERFORMANCE Measurements of the Akrapovic SLIP-ON system on the APRILIA DORSODURO 750 (without muffler insert): Power & Torque: the exhaust system modification results in a major boost in performance, delivering a solid 84.8 HP at 9540 rpm on back wheel. But the increased power isn’t available just at the top of the range; the system shows its quality already from 3500 rpm up through entire rpm range. Max. increased power between the Akrapovic and the stock system is 1.8 HP at 9300 rpm. Besides this, the torque is substantially higher in a lower rpm area from 2500 rpm to 6500, and also in middle and high rpm area. Technical specifications of Akrapovic exhaust systems and related products subject to change without notice. 20 30 40 50 60 70 80 47,5 50,0 52,5 55,0 57,5 60,0 62,5 65,0 67,5 3000 4000 5000 6000 7000 8000 9000 10000 WhlPwr EngT rq EngSpd RPM STOCK EXHAUST AKRAPOVIC SLIP-ON EXHAUST PERFORMANCE stock AKRAPOVIC max. increased power max. rear wheel power HP / rpm (measured on Dynojet ATV) 83.13 / 9560 84.8 / 9540 1.8 / 9300 ADDITIONAL DATA weight comparison (kg) stock AKRAPOVIC difference 11.13 SS link pipe TITANIUM link pipe stock – S.S. stock – TITANIUM 4.35 – 6.78 – noise measurements (dB / rpm) stock AKRAPOVIC 96 / 4375 96 / 4375

Vengeance Motorcycle Specification And Owner's Manual

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Filed Under (Vengeance) by admin on 20-11-2010

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Vengeance Maxis • Vengeance Raven • Vengeance Banshee • Vengeance Whiplash • Hotrod Drifter • Hotrod CalChop • Hotrod Teacher • Hotrod Bone Shifting Gears Starting off and changing gears requires coordination of the clutch and throttle and gearshift lever. If you don’t do things right, the amount of control you have over the bike is lessened. To start off, pull in the clutch, shift into first gear, roll on the throttle a little, and ease out the clutch. You will become familiar with the friction zone (that’s where the clutch begins to take hold and move the bike), and you add a bit more throttle. You don’t want to stall the engine, nor do you want to over-rev it. There’s a sweet spot in there; find it. Shift while traveling in a straight line. Shifting in a curve is not good practice, and something to be avoided. Become familiar with the sound of your engine, so you can tell when you should shift without looking at your instruments. When you downshift to a lower gear, you should (in one swift, smooth movement) be able to squeeze the clutch, rev the engine a little to let it catch the lower gear smoothly, and shift down. When you come to a stop in traffic, leave the bike in first gear with the clutch disengaged (just in case you want to accelerate out of there in a hurry). Who knows what may be coming up behind you. Braking Don’t ever forget: The front brake on your motorcycle can supply as much as 70 percent or more of your stopping power. The single most important thing you can learn about braking is to use that front brake every single time you want to slow down. Turning When you are riding along the road, you lean a motorcycle into a turn. Learning to lean is an essential part of riding a motorcycle. It is a normal function of the bike when you are changing its path of travel – and quite different from turning the steering wheel of your car. To get the motorcycle to lean in a normal turn, press the handlebar in the direction of the turn and maintain slight pressure on that handlebar to take you smoothly through that particular turn. In other words: press right to go right; press left to go left. Your instincts to keep the motorcycle on a smooth path while keeping it from falling over usually take care of this without you even noticing it. (Demonstrate to yourself how a motorcycle moves by pressing a handlebar slightly while traveling in a straight line. The motorcycle will move in the direction of the handlebar you pushed.) • Slow down before you enter the turn; look as far ahead as possible through the turn. • Keep your feet on the pegs, and grip the gas tank with your knees. • Lean with the motorcycle; don’t try to sit perpendicular to the road while the motorcycle is leaning over. • Keep an even throttle through the turn, or even accelerate a little bit. Checking the Bike before the Ride It’s not fun to have things go wrong on a motorcycle, but if you spend a minute before you go off on a ride, you can increase the chances that nothing will.

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2004 Vengeance MOTORCYCLE OWNERS MANUAL

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Filed Under (Vengeance) by admin on 21-11-2010

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Vengeance Warrior • Vengeance Raider • Vengeance Vertebreaker • Vengeance Striker • Vengeance Vendetta • Vengeance Vindicator Shifting Gears Starting off and changing gears requires coordination of the clutch and throttle and gearshift lever. If you don’t do things right, the amount of control you have over the bike is lessened. To start off, pull in the clutch, shift into first gear, roll on the throttle a little, and ease out the clutch. You will become familiar with the friction zone (that’s where the clutch begins to take hold and move the bike), and you add a bit more throttle. You don’t want to stall the engine, nor do you want to over-rev it. There’s a sweet spot in there; find it. Shift while traveling in a straight line. Shifting in a curve is not good practice, and something to be avoided. Become familiar with the sound of your engine, so you can tell when you should shift without looking at your instruments. When you downshift to a lower gear, you should (in one swift, smooth movement) be able to squeeze the clutch, rev the engine a little to let it catch the lower gear smoothly, and shift down. When you come to a stop in traffic, leave the bike in first gear with the clutch disengaged (just in case you want to accelerate out of there in a hurry). Who knows what may be coming up behind you. Braking Don’t ever forget: The front brake on your motorcycle can supply as much as 70 percent or more of your stopping power. The single most important thing you can learn about braking is to use that front brake every single time you want to slow down. Always apply both the front and the rear brakes at the same time. If necessary, apply them hard, but not so hard that you lock up either wheel. A locked wheel, as well as causing the bike to skid, results in downright inefficient braking. Turning When you are riding along the road, you lean a motorcycle into a turn. Learning to lean is an essential part of riding a motorcycle. It is a normal function of the bike when you are changing its path of travel – and quite different from turning the steering wheel of your car. To get the motorcycle to lean in a normal turn, press the handlebar in the direction of the turn and maintain slight pressure on that handlebar to take you smoothly through that particular turn. In other words: press right to go right; press left to go left. Your instincts to keep the motorcycle on a smooth path while keeping it from falling over usually take care of this without you even noticing it. (Demonstrate to yourself how a motorcycle moves by pressing a handlebar slightly while traveling in a straight line. The motorcycle will move in the direction of the handlebar you pushed.)

2010 APRILIA RS125 TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

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Filed Under (Aprilia) by admin on 06-11-2010

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1. MACHINES Aprilia RS 125 production models, as produced from 01-11-05 and available in the UK via IN Competition from 01-01-06. (any parts exclusive to the older models including the pre-1999 SP model are not permitted to be used on machines in this series). The only eligible models are designated as Euro 2 & Euro 3 New Euro 2 machines are supplied with race kits included through The machines used are allowed only limited modifications. Most modifications are allowed only on safety and cost control grounds. All motorcycles must comply in every respect with all requirements for Road Racing as specified in the ACU regulations. The appearance from both front, rear and profile of machines must (except when otherwise stated) conform to the homologated shape. The appearance of the exhaust system is excluded from this rule. 2. DISPLACEMENT CAPACITY The displacement must remain at 124.9cc and the bore and stroke (54 x 54.5) must remain as originally produced. 3. MINIMUM WEIGHT The minimum weight at post race control must not be less than 102kg , this includes oil and water but excludes fuel. At any time during the event, the weight of the whole machine (including the tank) must not be less than the minimum weight, with a tolerance of 1kg. 4. NUMBER PLATE COLOURS The background colours and figures for Aprilia Superteens are: FRONT RED background with WHITE numbers – Nitro Newcomers Class BLACK background with WHITE numbers – Aprilia Championship Class REAR BLACK background with WHITE numbers – Both Classes Placed in accordance with the ACU regulations. 5. CARBURATION INSTRUMENTS Carburation instruments must remain as homologated. Carburettor jets and needles may be replaced. No modification, polishing or cutting is allowed. Only the 28mm bodied standard carburettor is permitted. Electronic or mechanical enriching devices must remain installed and active (If the carburettor is changed from one model to another, the appropriate wiring loom must also be installed and be operative). Bell mouths must be as originally produced by the manufacturer for the homologated machine. Throttle must be standard, quick action throttles are not permitted. 6. FUEL All machines must function on normal unleaded fuel with a maximum lead content of 0.005 g/l (unleaded) and a maximum MON of 90 (RON 102 max) and be readily available from roadside service stations nationwide. E85 Bio Fuel is also permitted when purchased from normal roadside outlets.

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Oil Pressure Gauge Set Installation

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 27-11-2010

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7. See Figure 3-4 . Assemble banjo bolt (3), washer (4), OIL PRESSURE GAUGE (1) banjo fitting and second washer onto adapter and tighten snugly. 8. Temporarily secure oil pressure gauge and hose to motorcycle frame with cable straps. Make sure gauge and hose assembly do not interfere with normal operation of the vehicle. Start engine and ride motorcycle at least 20 miles (32 km) at or above 50 mph (80 km/h) to allow engine to reach operating temperature. a. At 2500 RPM, oil pressure will vary from 10-17 psi (69-117 kN/m2). b. At idle speed (950-1050 RPM), oil pressure will vary from 7-12 psi (48-83 kN/m2). NOTE For an accurate reading, engine oil should be at normal operating temperature: 230°F (110°C). 9. Stop engine. Remove OIL PRESSURE GAUGE assembly from oil pressure indicator lamp switch mounting hole in crankcase. Cut cable straps that you installed in step 8. above, and remove banjo bolt, gauge assembly, washers and adapter from vehicle. 10. See Figure 3-2 . Coat threads of oil pressure switch (2) with LOCTITE 565 HIGH PERFORMANCE PIPE SEALANT with TEFLON. Reinstall oil pressure switch. Using OIL PRESSURE SENDING UNIT WRENCH, tighten switch snugly. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN. 11. Plug in connector [120] (3) by pushing elbow connector straight up onto stud on oil pressure switch. 12. Install voltage regulator caddy and attach DC output connector and neutral switch wiring harness to caddy. See 7.28 MAIN WIRING HARNESS . NOTE If an appreciable amount of oil leaked out when oil pressure switch was removed, it will have to be replaced with fresh oil. 13. Check oil level in oil tank. See 1.5 ENGINE OIL AND FILTER . Top off oil level if necessary. 14. Start engine and test oil pressure switch for proper operation. Check oil pressure switch for leaks.

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