Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 30-03-2011
REMOVAL Direct contact of D.O.T. 5 brake fluid with eyes can cause eye irritation, swelling, and redness. Avoid eye contact. In case of eye contact flush with large amounts of water and get medical attention. Swallowing large amounts of D.O.T. 5 brake fluid can cause digestive discomfort. If swallowed, obtain medical attention. Use in well ventilated area. KEEP OUT OF REACH OF CHILDREN. (00144a) Direct contact of D.O.T. 4 brake fluid with eyes can cause irritation. Avoid eye contact. In case of eye contact flush with large amounts of water and get medical attention. Swallowing large amounts of D.O.T. 4 brake fluid can cause digestive discomfort. If swallowed, obtain medical attention. Use in well ventilated area. KEEP OUT OF REACH OF CHILDREN. (00240a) D.O.T. 4 brake fluid will damage painted and body panel surfaces it comes in contact with. Always use caution and protect surfaces from spills whenever brake work is performed. Failure to comply can result in cosmetic damage. (00239b) 1. Drain the brake fluid following the instructions in the service manual. Dispose of waste properly. To prevent accidental vehicle start-up, which could cause death or serious injury, disconnect negative (-) battery cable before proceeding. (00048a) To prevent accidental vehicle start-up, which could cause death or serious injury, remove main fuse before proceeding. (00251b) 2. Disconnect the battery, negative (-) cable first or remove the main fuse. Follow the instructions in the service manual 3. Remove bolt and two sealing washers to disconnect brake line fitting from master cylinder. Discard sealing washers, but save bolt for installation. 4. Remove bolt and two sealing washers to disconnect brake line fitting from front brake caliper. Discard sealing washers, but save bolt for installation. 5. Carefully make note of brake line routing, then remove existing brake line. NOTE This kit contains clamps and cable straps to either replace the original equipment clamps and cable straps being removed or to add additional brake line support. INSTALLATION Install proper length brake lines. Incorrect brake line length can adversely affect motorcycle operation, which could cause loss of control resulting in death or serious injury. (00325a) Replace brake line gaskets. Re-using original gaskets can cause brake failure and loss of vehicle control, which could result in death or serious injury. (00318a) Avoid leakage. Be sure gaskets, banjo bolt(s) and brake line are clean and undamaged before assembly. (00323a) 1. Position new sealing washers from kit on each side of hydraulic brake fittings (banjo fittings). Small ID washers are for caliper end, large ID washers are for master cylinder end. 2. Insert bolts (removed earlier) through washers and fittings. 3. Hold new braided brake line in position and install bolts into master cylinder and caliper. Tighten only enough to keep banjo fitting in the same orientation as the stock banjo fitting. 4. Verify there is no twist in the brake line. Adjust brake line if necessary. 5. Install clamps from kit by wrapping clamp around braided brake line at each of the clamp mounting locations. Verify clamps are oriented the same as the stock clamps. Install clamp screws but do not tighten. 6. Check entire length of braided brake line: a. Be sure brake line is not twisted. b. Turn handlebars fully-left and right while checking to make sure brake line does not contact any vehicle components. c. Be sure brake line length between clamps is sufficient. 7. Adjust brake line if necessary. 8. Tighten caliper and master cylinder banjo bolts to 20-25 ft-lbs (27-34 Nm) .
Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 29-01-2011
Step 1: Identify the key components that complete our front brake line kit: You should have three (3) hoses, one (1) double banjo bolt, and two (2) single banjo bolts There are also a total of nine (9) washers and (3) brass conic inversors. Seven (7) washers and two (2) inversors will be used; the rest are spares. If you have purchased a rear kit as well, locate the following additional pieces: One (1) hose with bracket and c-clip attached, one (1) single banjo bolt, two (2) brass inversors and three (3) washers. You will use one (1) “olive” conic inversor and two (2) washers, the rest are spares. Step 2: To ensure no paint damage from a brake fluid spill, completely cover the front end of the bike. This process can be messy, and brake fluid WILL drip! Step 3: After drying out the OEM brake system, uninstall stock hoses. On the front brake line kit, we are replacing three hoses and their respective blocks (see pictures 1-2 for blocks) . For the rear, we are replacing one hose from the master cylinder to the ABS hard line. Take note of how the stock system was routed, in case you need to reinstall it. Step 4: Locate Line A – This will travel from the master cylinder to the ABS Junction. (See picture 3) You will use a single banjo bolt and two washers at the master cylinder, and an “olive” inversor to thread female end to hard pipe for incoming ABS (right side). * We have replaced the block at the upper triple clamp with a c-clip; please use your stock bolt to thread this in. (See picture 4) Locate Line B – This will travel from the ABS Junction to the right caliper. First, thread the female end to the hard pipe for outgoing ABS (left side). There will be a bolt from the OEM blocks at ABS Junction; please use this to thread c-clips into frame as shown in picture 5 . There is another bolt/OEM block located at the lower triple clamp; please use this to thread the c-clip in as seen in picture 6. Locate Line C – This will cross over the front fender using OEM holders, from right caliper to left caliper. Thread caliper banjos from Line B and C using the following sequence: double banjo hex, washer, 40- degree banjo from Line C, washer, 20-degree banjo from Line B, washer, caliper. Please see pictures 7 and 8 for reference. Thread single banjo bolt into left caliper, using two washers and 40-degree banjo. If applicable, locate rear Line D – this will travel from the rear master cylinder to the hard line for ABS. Thread the hard pipe into female end using a “olive” inversor, and attach bracket to swingarm as seen in picture 9 . Use the bolt from the holder for ABS hose, and sit our bracket on top of the OEM holder. Using the bolt from the OEM ABS hose holder in location shown in picture 10 , attach the c-clip on top of holder and tighten. Finally, thread 30-degree banjo in caliper using the following sequence: single banjo hex, washer, banjo, washer, caliper
Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 19-11-2010
For best service, you should incorporate an oiler, regulator, and inline filter, as shown in the diagram on the next page. Hoses, couplers, oilers, regulators, and filters are all available at Harbor Freight Tools. NOTE: If an automatic oiler is not used, put 3-5 drops of pneumatic Tool Oil (not included) in the Motorcycle Lift’s Quick Coupler (38A) before each use. (See Figure B, next page.) To Check The Level Of Hydraulic Oil: 1. The Motorcycle Lift already contains some hydraulic oil in its Hydraulic Pump Reservoir (32P). Even so, it is recommended that you check the oil level in the Reservoir and, if necessary, top off the Reservoir with the proper amount of 15/40 hydraulic oil (not included). (See Assy. Diagram, page 15.) 2. Make sure to screw the two Adjusting Screws clockwise enough to lift the two Caster Wheels (14) off the floor so as to provide stability for the Motorcycle Lift. (See Figure A.) 3. To check the level of hydraulic oil, remove the Sliding Plate (36) from the Platform (35) to expose the Hydraulic Pump Reservoir (32P). (See Assy. Diagrams, pages 13 and 15.) 4. Remove the rubber Filler Plug (33P) located on the top of the Reservoir (32P). If necessary, top off the Reservoir with hydraulic oil. (See Assy. Diagram, page 15.) 5. Connect the air compressor’s hose to the to the Air Motor assembly. Then turn on the air compressor and set its regulator at 120 PSI. (See Assy. Diagram, page 14.) 5. Insert the Lift Foot Pedal (11) onto the Pump Piston Spindle (9), and slowly pump the Lift Foot Pedal until a slight amount of hydraulic oil begins to leak out of the Reservoir (32P). Discontinue pumping the Lift Foot Pedal. Then, replace the Filler Plug (33P) on the top of the Reservoir. (See Assy. Diagram, page 15.) REGULATOR OILER FILTER TO QUICK COUPLER (38A) OF MOTORCYCLE LIFT FIGURE B 6. Insert the Release Foot Pedal (10) onto the Release Valve Spindle (5). Pump the Lift Foot Pedal (11) until the Platform (35) of the Motorcycle Lift reaches its maximum height. Then press down slightly on the Release Foot Pedal until the Platform is fully collapsed to the floor. Repeat this procedure several times to ensure the Motorcycle Lift is operating properly. (See Figure E, page 10.)
Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 03-03-2011
Prep the motorcycle for this job A. Park motorcycle on the center stand in a well-lit shop (Fig.A) B. Note: it is not absolutely necessary to remove the fuel tank and body panels. However, brake fluid is VERY CORROSIVE TO PAINT. We decided to be safe (Fig. B) and removed the lower fairing left and right rear sides, fuel tank, front fender, seat, and black A B plastic inner fairing front parts, battery cover, and rear master cylinder cover according to the owner’s manual. This also gives better access to the fittings. (Fig C) C. After safely storing the body panels and fuel tank, remove wind shield, (brake fluid, even a drop, will permanently mark any clear plastic), cover the dash and all gauges with a towel. II. Draining the brake fluid from the systems. A. A copy of the factory instructions has been included with this kit on how to properly and safely drain, fill and bleed the brake fluid from the brake systems. Follow the directions closely and remove the fluid according to the instructions. Dispose of the old fluid properly—DO NOT REUSE. B. If you purchased the clutch line, then perform the following steps (Fig D): In the bag marked Clutch Line: remove the left side lower body panels. Remove vehicle speed sensor, and remove the coolant C D tank. Remove the clutch fluid from the master cylinder on the left clip-on. Remove the fluid from the clutch line and slave cylinder. This factory line is NOT attached along the inner frame spar so here is a little trick that made this a 20- minute job including the bleed: 1. Remove the banjo bolts from the master cylinder and the clutch slave ends. 2. With a nice heavy wire tie, attach the slave end of the new braided line to the lever end of the factory line. Snip off the tail of the wire tie. Wrap this “joint” with electrical tape. 3. Pull from the factory slave end until you get the braided line end to the clutch slave. If it gets caught on something, try turning the end you are pulling from. 4. Remove the tape, carefully cut off the wire tie, install new sealing washers and bolts at both ends and torque to 17-21 foot/lbs. maximum. Bleed the clutch. III. Removing the factory front brake hoses and calipers – Front A. With the fluid drained and disposed of properly, loosen the bolts that hold the right caliper to the right fork leg (Fig E). Also remove the two 8mm bolts from the ABS front wheel speed sensor. Loosen all of the hose mounting blocks on the front forks on both sides; also loosen the blocks for the crossover pipe (Fig F) between the fork legs. Also loosen the frame pipe mounts and the mount for the front lever line that is also E attached to the right side of the frame. Loosen the left caliper mounting bolts (Fig G). B. Remove the calipers and remove the hose mounts under the lower triple tree. Remove the hard pipes from both the left and right hard pipe to soft line frame mounts on the frame (Fig. H). On the front ABS modulator remove the short soft line that is connected to the mount block. (Fig I.a. & I.b.) C. Carefully remove the
Filed Under (Triumph) by admin on 28-10-2010
A.) REAR WHEEL REMOVAL- PAGE 14-16 Triumph Motorcycle Service Manual 1.) Support motorcycle on center stand or center lift so rear wheel is suspended and there is clearance for removal. Use tie downs. 2.) If both wheels are raised chock the front wheel to prevent any weight shift when rear wheel is removed. 3.) Remove chain guard. 4.) Remove caliper and support so there is no strain on the brake line. 5.) Remove both silencers from exhaust headers. 6.) Remove axle nut and washer—support or chock rear wheel—and slide out axle. 7.) Disengage chain from sprocket and hang over swing—use soft cloth to protect swing arm from scratches that will occur if you do not cover. 8.) Lower wheel to the ground and collect spacer and caliper support arm and all fasteners for re-assembly. B.) REMOVE SEAT PAGE 15-9 Triumph Motorcycle Service Manual 1.) Remove the 12 mm bolt from rear seat section—if you have a pillion pad remove it first by removing the 8 mm bolt, slide forward and lift free of seat catch. Take a position where you can see what you are doing or you will scratch your painted surface. 2.) Lift seat from the rear and slide backwards to disengage tongue– collect all fasteners for re-assembly. C.) REMOVE REAR MUD GUARD PAGE 15-14 Triumph Motorcycle Service Manual 1.) Disconnect battery and remove from motorcycle. 2.) Disconnect electrical connectors on the underside of the mudguard. 3.) Support fender from beneath and remove the 4 side allen head mount bolts and 2 12mm hex head top front mount bolts– collect all fasteners for re-assembly. D.) REMOVE FUEL TANK PAGE 9-11 Triumph Motorcycle Service Manual 1.) Turn off fuel tap. 2.) Remove fuel line at the tap connection. 3.) Remove the 12mm rear tank-mounting bolt. 4.) With assistance from another set of hands support tank at the rear and lift so that the breather line is visible on the right side of the underside of tank—remove and plug line. 5.) With tank raised and supported at the rear slide backwards— disengaging it from the front mounting rubbers—set tank aside in a safe place to prevent any damage to the painted surface. E.) REMOVE SIDE COVERS PAGE 15-10 and 9-15 Triumph Motorcycle Service Manual 1.) Loosen and remove left side cover screws on the air filter facade— lift slightly to disengage top mounts and remove—set aside in a safe place to prevent damage to painted surface. 2.) On right side cover simply and gently pull bayonet fittings from rubber slip mounts. 3.) Secure these rubber mounts and remove for later re-assembly with the Bonneville Performance brackets.