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HARLEY-DAVIDSON MOTORCYCLE WASH KIT MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 02-03-2011

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THE WASHING PROCESS Allow the motorcycle to cool to the touch. Cool water can damage a hot motorcycle. 1. Pre-Wash: a. Verify the motorcycle is cool to the touch. b. Rinse the motorcycle from the bottom up. c. Verify you have the proper cleaning supplies. d. Spray on Bug Remover and let the product activate while proceeding to the next step. 2. Wheels and Tires: a. Rinse wheel and tire surfaces. b. Apply Wheel and Tire Cleaner. c. Wait one minute after spraying product. d. Clean wheel with a Soft Detailing Pad or Wheel and Spoke Brush. e. Rinse well. 3. The Wash: a. Have two buckets; one for the cleaner and one for rinsing. b. Pour Sunwash into the Harley-Davidson Cleaning Bucket and fill with water. c. Fill the rinsing bucket with clean, plain water. d. Soak the Wash Mitt in the Sunwash solution. e. Wash all surfaces from the top working down. f. Rinse from the bottom up first. g. End with top down rinse. 4. Drying the Motorcycle: a. Use the Soft Drying Towel to dry surfaces of the motorcycle. b. Dampen the towel in clean water. c. Wring out the towel as often as needed and continue until the surface is completely dry. 5. The Polish and Seal : (not applicable for denim paint finishes) Polishing and sealing isn’t just about good looks . A well cared-for motorcycle repels dust, dirt, bugs and dirty water. a. Use Harley Glaze polish and sealant and follow the instructions on the bottle. b. Use Softcloth disposable towels for application. c. A Softcloth or Microfiber detailing cloth is an absolute must for finish buffing. d. In between Harley Glaze applications, use Harley Spray Cleaner and Polish and Harley Gloss to maintain shine and protection of painted and chrome fin- ishes.

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Motorcycle stand Wheel chock set up and operating instructions

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 22-11-2010

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1. can be adjusted to fit the wheel length. The Motorcycle Stand will fit most standard motorcycles currently on the market. However, some models with especially wide tires or custom low-profile front fenders will not fit. Mount the Support Arm (4) to the front of the Base using 2 Bolts (12), Washers 2. (5), and Nuts (6). Insert Pin (9) through the mounting holes and Cradle Stop (3); secure with Wash- 3. er (10) and R Pin (11). Insert Pin (9) through the mounting holes and Wheel Adapter (2); secure with 4. Washer (10) and R Pin (11). Securely tighten all hardware before use. 5. the Motorcycle stand must be mounted securely before use. 6. Page 5 SKU 97841 For technical questions, please call 1-800-444-3353. Mounting in concrete Choose a location to install the Motorcycle Stand that is flat, level, and capable of 1. bearing the combined weight of the Motorcycle Stand and the motorcycle being secured. The location should not obstruct walkways and provide enough room to retrieve the motorcycle after it is mounted. The surface of the location should be one suitable for the mounting of heavy equipment. Use the mounting holes in the Base (1) of the Stand as a template. Arrange the 2. Base in the chosen location and mark where the holes are to be drilled. You will need concrete anchors (not included) to secure the Base to the concrete 3. floor. Using the correct size concrete drill bit (not included), drill the mounting holes to secure the Base. Attach the concrete anchors to the floor. Secure the Base to the floor using con- 4. crete anchors.

HARLEY DAVIDSON FRONT BRAKE DISC LOCK INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 20-03-2011

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INSTALLATION Do not operate vehicle with brake disc lock in place. Operation with lock on disc will restrict movement of the wheel, which could result in death or serious injury. (00457b) NOTE Insert key all the way to the bottom of the cylinder. Turn key clockwise 180 degrees to the open position. DO NOT FORCE KEY! Key should turn freely. If key does not freely rotate, try turning key slightly left and right while inserting to align disks inside cylinder. Failure to insert key all the way to the bottom of cylinder could cause key to jam. For Models with Hydraulic Fork Front Ends 1. See Figure 1. Insert reminder cord (3) into slot on disc lock (1). 2 1 3 is 01599 1. Lock 2. Caliper 3. Reminder cord Figure 1. Installing Disc Lock 2. Slide lock (1) over front brake disc as close to rearward edge of brake caliper (2) as possible. Push button completely down to lock. 3. Roll motorcycle forward slowly until lock gently contacts caliper. 4. See Figure 3. After installing disc lock, place loop end (1) of reminder cord (2) over handlebar grip. For Models with Springer Front Ends 1. See Figure 2. Insert reminder cord (5) into slot on disc lock

K-Drive removable Click & Lock Saddlebag sets for Kawasaki VN1500/ 1600 Mean Streak

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 05-11-2010

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Each saddlebagsset is supplied in an individual packing, containing : – 1 pair of click & lock saddlebagsupports; – 1 pair of saddlebags with our clicksystem mounted on the rigid backside of the bags; – All necessary bolts; – 2 keys to lock the bags to the supports. (lock is at the inside of the bags) – 2 keys to lock the bags (only CL bags) . K-Drive Click & Lock saddlebags are fixed to the saddlebagguards by means of a lockable clicksystem. This “Click & Lock” system has many advantages: – Our bags are easily mounted and removed in just a few seconds. – The bags themselves are locked to the motorcycle with a key. – The bags don’t touch the bike and therefore don’t damage it. – They can also be attached to motorcycles without a duo saddle. – As the bags are made specifically (or adapted) for a model, every bag we manufacture fits perfectly. – Our saddlebag holders are discreet, following the contour of the motorcycle, and are perfectly chromed K-Drive is a trademark of Vartex bvba * Iparex is a very strong synthetic leather, made following our technical specifications. It has a luxury leatherlook and is one of the best materials for saddlebags. It is strong, waterproof and don’t need any maintaining. To clean it, just use water, eventually with a light natural soap. Never use any product that is meant for leather, it may harm the Iparex. K-Drive Click & Lock saddlebags are completely reinforced : – Backside : made of a strong hdpi plate; – Upper side, sides and bottom are reinforced with PVC at the inside : – Side flaps are closed with velcro for better protection against the rain. Click & Lock saddlebags have discrete “sliding” grips All buckles, logo & decorative studs are made of “zamack”. A material which is 100% rustfree For maximum protection against the rain, the sideflaps are closed with Velcro

K-Drive Click & Lock Saddlebag sets for Triumph Bonneville America And Speedmaster

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Filed Under (Triumph) by admin on 06-11-2010

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Each saddlebagsset is supplied in an individual packing, containing : – 1 pair of click & lock saddlebagsupports; – 1 pair of saddlebags with our clicksystem mounted on the rigid backside of the bags; – All necessary bolts; – 2 keys to lock the bags to the supports. (lock is at the inside of the bags) – 2 keys to lock the bags (only CL bags) . K-Drive Click & Lock saddlebags are fixed to the saddlebagguards by means of a lockable clicksystem. This “Click & Lock” system has many advantages: – Our bags are easily mounted and removed in just a few seconds. – The bags themselves are locked to the motorcycle with a key. – The bags don’t touch the bike and therefore don’t damage it. – They can also be attached to motorcycles without a duo saddle. – As the bags are made specifically (or adapted) for a model, every bag we manufacture fits perfectly. – Our saddlebag holders are discreet, following the contour of the motorcycle, and are perfectly chromed K-Drive is a trademark of Vartex bvba * Iparex is a very strong synthetic leather, made following our technical specifications. It has a luxury leatherlook and is one of the best materials for saddlebags. It is strong, waterproof and don’t need any maintaining. To clean it, just use water, eventually with a light natural soap. Never use any product that is meant for leather, it may harm the Iparex. K-Drive Click & Lock saddlebags are completely reinforced : – Backside : made of a strong hdpi plate; – Upper side, sides and bottom are reinforced with PVC at the inside : – Side flaps are closed with velcro for better protection against the rain. Click & Lock saddlebags have discrete “sliding” grips All buckles, logo & decorative studs are made of “zamack”. A material which is 100% rustfree For maximum protection against the rain, the sideflaps are closed with Velcro

1300 Yamaha V-Star Installation Manual

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 07-11-2010

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1) Place motorcycle on a firm level surface and secure in a upright position. 2) Remove saddle bags and saddle bag hardware (Tourer model only) Also remove rear riders pegs (Tourer model requires removal of rear footpeg offset hardware as well) 3) Attach bracket A (right) / B (left) to rear footpeg attachment point using new bolts provided. Remount footpegs/saddlebag hardware over top of brackets A/B. NOTE: Do not attach leveling stand bracket at this time 4) Attach bracket C(right) / D(left) to rear fender sub frame using new bolts provided. (Tourer model only – Saddle bag hardware mounts to the outside of brackets C/D. Brackets C/D mount between chrome side rail and saddlebag hardware.) NOTE: Brackets C/D have welded spacers which attach in toward rear fender 5) Attach top of Bracket E(right) / F(left) to rear of brackets C/D. Brackets E/F mount to the inside of brackets C/D. NOTE: Use ½ inch spacer between brackets E/F and C/D on Tourer model ONLY
6) Attach rear of brackets A/B to TOP of forward hitch arms. Attach bottom to brackets E/F to rear hitch plate. 7) Carefully tighten all bolts at this time ensuring hitch is square with motorcycle. Hitch Bracket Identification Leveling stand screw jack installation 1) Attach leveling stand brackets to brackets A and B 2) Thread right side screw jack into threaded hole on leveling stand bracket attached to bracket A sand adjust leveling jack bolt out. 3) Push motorcycle over from left side until right screw jack is touching floor. 4) Thread left side screw jack into threaded hole on leveling stand bracket attached to bracket B and adjust out until motorcycle will rest upright on both screw jacks. 5) Adjust screw jacks until motorcycle is level. 6) After InstaTrike is attached to or removed from receiver hitch, be sure to remove leveling stands and leveling stand brackets. CAUTION – Use screw jacks to hold motorcycle upright and level ONLY. Do not lift motorcycle with screw jacks. CAUTION – Use care when installing screw jacks. Be certain that motorcycle is always in a stable balanced position.
INSTALLATION OF THE TOW-PAC HITCH CART. 1. Place your motorcycle on a smooth flat surface, like a garage floor, and install leveling stands. Install right leveling stand first. Carefully raise motorcycle off of side stand and install left leveling stand. Caution – Use leveling stands to level motorcycle ONLY. Do not raise motorcycle with stands Caution – Be certain that motorcycle is always in a stable balanced position when installing leveling stands. 2. Assemble the axles, tires and wheels, and fenders onto the tow- pac hitch cart. 3. Carefully align the tow-pac hitch cart’s hitch mount with the receiver hitch on the motorcycle. Now push the hitch mount into the receiver hitch. (this might be a little difficult until you get use to doing it. Removing the paint from the hitch mount and applying a little grease will help.) 4. Place the hitch pin through the receiver hitch and hitch mount ( alignment plate ). Install and tighten the tension bolt

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Vengeance Motorcycle Specification And Owner's Manual

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Filed Under (Vengeance) by admin on 20-11-2010

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Vengeance Maxis • Vengeance Raven • Vengeance Banshee • Vengeance Whiplash • Hotrod Drifter • Hotrod CalChop • Hotrod Teacher • Hotrod Bone Shifting Gears Starting off and changing gears requires coordination of the clutch and throttle and gearshift lever. If you don’t do things right, the amount of control you have over the bike is lessened. To start off, pull in the clutch, shift into first gear, roll on the throttle a little, and ease out the clutch. You will become familiar with the friction zone (that’s where the clutch begins to take hold and move the bike), and you add a bit more throttle. You don’t want to stall the engine, nor do you want to over-rev it. There’s a sweet spot in there; find it. Shift while traveling in a straight line. Shifting in a curve is not good practice, and something to be avoided. Become familiar with the sound of your engine, so you can tell when you should shift without looking at your instruments. When you downshift to a lower gear, you should (in one swift, smooth movement) be able to squeeze the clutch, rev the engine a little to let it catch the lower gear smoothly, and shift down. When you come to a stop in traffic, leave the bike in first gear with the clutch disengaged (just in case you want to accelerate out of there in a hurry). Who knows what may be coming up behind you. Braking Don’t ever forget: The front brake on your motorcycle can supply as much as 70 percent or more of your stopping power. The single most important thing you can learn about braking is to use that front brake every single time you want to slow down. Turning When you are riding along the road, you lean a motorcycle into a turn. Learning to lean is an essential part of riding a motorcycle. It is a normal function of the bike when you are changing its path of travel – and quite different from turning the steering wheel of your car. To get the motorcycle to lean in a normal turn, press the handlebar in the direction of the turn and maintain slight pressure on that handlebar to take you smoothly through that particular turn. In other words: press right to go right; press left to go left. Your instincts to keep the motorcycle on a smooth path while keeping it from falling over usually take care of this without you even noticing it. (Demonstrate to yourself how a motorcycle moves by pressing a handlebar slightly while traveling in a straight line. The motorcycle will move in the direction of the handlebar you pushed.) • Slow down before you enter the turn; look as far ahead as possible through the turn. • Keep your feet on the pegs, and grip the gas tank with your knees. • Lean with the motorcycle; don’t try to sit perpendicular to the road while the motorcycle is leaning over. • Keep an even throttle through the turn, or even accelerate a little bit. Checking the Bike before the Ride It’s not fun to have things go wrong on a motorcycle, but if you spend a minute before you go off on a ride, you can increase the chances that nothing will.

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Motorcycle LED lights RENEGADE LIGHTS Disconnection Guide

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 29-01-2011

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1. Make sure your bike is cool and parked on a flat secure surface! 2. Find your battery (you may have to remove your seat or side covers in order to get to your battery) Disconnect the NEGATIVE ( -) cable. Negative battery cable must be disconnected from the battery in order to avoid safety hazards! Be sure as you disconnect the Negative cable that it does not touch or make contact with your Positive terminal 3. Disconnect the fuse holder from the battery – both the positive ( +) and negative ( -) sides. 4. Cut the wire to the light that is not working with the side cutters. 5. At the problem light twist the light case back and forth slowly and then pull firmly, DO NOT yank to remove from the motorcycle. 6. If the motorcycle led light does not come off easily, repeat the twisting motion back and froth until you feel the light loosen – then pull. 7. Pull the motorcycle led light away from the motorcycle slowly until the cut end of wire falls free. 8. If you will NOT be using your motorcycle until the new lights arrive, you may stop at this step. SAFETY POINT: Otherwise, where you cut the wire, you need to dead end or tape the cut wire. This will keep it from shorting out until the new motorcycle led light is installed. 9. Reconnect fuse holder to battery. 10. Reconnect the battery and then install the seat. 11. Return the motorcycle led light or lights to Renegade Lights along with Warranty Return Policy Form. 12. Renegade Lights will return your new motorcycle led lights along with instructions for installing them.

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2004 Vengeance MOTORCYCLE OWNERS MANUAL

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Filed Under (Vengeance) by admin on 21-11-2010

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Vengeance Warrior • Vengeance Raider • Vengeance Vertebreaker • Vengeance Striker • Vengeance Vendetta • Vengeance Vindicator Shifting Gears Starting off and changing gears requires coordination of the clutch and throttle and gearshift lever. If you don’t do things right, the amount of control you have over the bike is lessened. To start off, pull in the clutch, shift into first gear, roll on the throttle a little, and ease out the clutch. You will become familiar with the friction zone (that’s where the clutch begins to take hold and move the bike), and you add a bit more throttle. You don’t want to stall the engine, nor do you want to over-rev it. There’s a sweet spot in there; find it. Shift while traveling in a straight line. Shifting in a curve is not good practice, and something to be avoided. Become familiar with the sound of your engine, so you can tell when you should shift without looking at your instruments. When you downshift to a lower gear, you should (in one swift, smooth movement) be able to squeeze the clutch, rev the engine a little to let it catch the lower gear smoothly, and shift down. When you come to a stop in traffic, leave the bike in first gear with the clutch disengaged (just in case you want to accelerate out of there in a hurry). Who knows what may be coming up behind you. Braking Don’t ever forget: The front brake on your motorcycle can supply as much as 70 percent or more of your stopping power. The single most important thing you can learn about braking is to use that front brake every single time you want to slow down. Always apply both the front and the rear brakes at the same time. If necessary, apply them hard, but not so hard that you lock up either wheel. A locked wheel, as well as causing the bike to skid, results in downright inefficient braking. Turning When you are riding along the road, you lean a motorcycle into a turn. Learning to lean is an essential part of riding a motorcycle. It is a normal function of the bike when you are changing its path of travel – and quite different from turning the steering wheel of your car. To get the motorcycle to lean in a normal turn, press the handlebar in the direction of the turn and maintain slight pressure on that handlebar to take you smoothly through that particular turn. In other words: press right to go right; press left to go left. Your instincts to keep the motorcycle on a smooth path while keeping it from falling over usually take care of this without you even noticing it. (Demonstrate to yourself how a motorcycle moves by pressing a handlebar slightly while traveling in a straight line. The motorcycle will move in the direction of the handlebar you pushed.)

DUCATI CLUTCH INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Ducati) by admin on 25-10-2010

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When a vehicle is so equipped, the pilot must be replaced. The pilot is located in either the engine’s crankshaft or in the center of the flywheel. To remove a flywheel-fit pilot, remove the flywheel from the engine and drive or press out the pilot from the backside of the flywheel. Press or gently tap new pilot into flywheel after flywheel has been machined (where applicable). For crankshaft-fit pilots, an effective means for removal is to select a drift punch or wooden dowel that fits snugly into the old pilot. Then, pack the old pilot tightly with grease. Using the drift punch (or dowel) and a hammer, drive the grease toward the engine. The grease will not compress and will in turn push the old pilot out of the crankshaft. Install the new pilot carefully using a bearing driver. NOTE: Do not grease new pilots. New pilot bearings come pre-greased (often with special synthetic grease). Bronze pilot bushings have oil in the pores of the material that grease will clog. For bushings, a few drops of 30W oil can be used if desired. PRESSURE PLATE AND DISC Install flywheel (refer to flywheel section above) . Always tighten flywheel to crankshaft bolts in a star pattern to manufacturer’s torque specification. Before installing the disc, make sure that it slides smoothly on the transmission input shaft. Apply a thin coat of high temperature grease (such as wheel bearing grease) to the splines of the input shaft. DO NOT USE ANTI-SEIZE! It does not cling to rotating parts. Slide the disc back and forth on the input shaft and remove any extra grease that squishes out of the splines of the disc. Do not get grease or oil on the disc facing. Any grease or oil on a disc facing can be removed with alcohol or brake cleaner if done quickly. Lay the disc on the flywheel noting the flywheel side of the disc and hold it in place with the alignment tool. Clean the pressure ring of the pressure plate with brake cleaner to remove the rust inhibiting coating. Do not spray the entire pressure plate with brake cleaner as lube for internal parts will be removed. Set the pressure plate on the flywheel dowel pins (if equipped) and hand tighten the hold-down bolts. With hand tools, tighten pressure plate bolts ½ turn at a time in a star pattern until the manufacturer’s torque specification is met. Remove the alignment tool. NOTE: Different brands of the same pressure plate may have a difference in appearance and uninstalled lever height. These are not issues. Appearance can vary greatly and the installed lever height will be the same.

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