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HARLEY DAVIDSON SCREAMIN' EAGLE STREET PERFORMANCE TOURING END CAP MUFFLER KIT INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 14-04-2011

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PRODUCT INFORMATION Noise Emission Warranty Harley-Davidson warrants that these mufflers, at the time of sale, meet all applicable United States E.P.A. Federal noise and Emissions standards. This warranty extends to the first person who buys these mufflers for proposes other than resale, and to all subsequent buyers. Warranty claims should be directed to an authorized Harley-Davidson Dealer. Tampering Prohibition Federal law prohibits any modification to this exhaust system which causes the motorcycle to exceed the Federal noise standard. Use of the motorcycle with such a modified exhaust system is also prohibited. NOTE This product should be checked for repair or replacement if the motorcycle noise has increased significantly through use. Otherwise, the owner may become subject to penalties under state and local ordinances. INSTALLATION NOTE Install end caps on mufflers before installing mufflers on vehicle. Install Direct Bolt-On End Caps 1. See Figure 1. Install end cap (2) to muffler (3) with four socket head cap screws (1). Tighten to 82-86 in-lbs (9.3- 9.7 Nm) . 2. Repeat for opposite side muffler. 3 2 1 is05426 1. Socket head screw (4) 2. End cap 3. Muffler Figure 1. Install End Cap on Muffler Install Attachment Ring End Caps 1. See Figure 2. Slide the three U-nuts (2) onto the bosses of the end cap attachment ring cup on the muffler. 2. Install attachment ring (1) to muffler with four socket head cap screws (3). Locate the attachment ring with a U-nut in the 12 o’clock position. Tighten to 82-86 in-lbs (9.3-9.7 Nm) . 3. Slide end cap (5) onto muffler body being careful to align holes in end cap with U-nuts. 4. Install the three countersunk screws (4) and tighten screws securely. 5. Repeat for opposite side muffler

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HAR:EY DAVIDSON FLHR/C/S (Road King) FRONT END LOWERING KIT REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 01-03-2011

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Removal (Left and Right Forks) 1. Place suitable blocking under frame to raise front wheel several inches off the floor. For best results, use a hydraulic center stand on a level surface. 2. Refer to Touring Model Service Manual and remove front wheel, fender and brakes. 3. Refer to Touring Model Service Manual and remove headlamp nacelle. 4. Loosen fork cap bolt from fork tube plug at top of fork tube, but do not remove. 5. See Figure 1. Standing at front of vehicle, loosen pinch bolt (with lockwasher) on right side of lower fork bracket, but do not remove. 6. Spray glass cleaner on fork tube above the rubber fork stop. After lubricating surfaces, move fork stop up fork tube until it contacts bottom of upper fork bracket. 7. Holding fork slider to prevent fork from dropping, remove fork cap bolt from fork tube plug. Slide fork tube down and out of upper fork bracket, fork stop, lower fork bracket and slider cover. 1 WARNING 1 WARNING 1 WARNING 1 of 5 ® Kit Number 54614-05 Figure 1. Loosen Pinch Bolt on Lower Fork Bracket i04808 1 Fork cap bolt 2 Fork stop 3 Pinch bolt 8. Thread fork cap bolt back into fork tube plug to prevent loss of oil while handling. 9. Move forks to bench area. Place suitable drain pan on floor beneath vise. 10. Repeat Steps 2-6 to remove left fork. Left And Right Fork-Disassembly 1. Remove nuts, lockwashers, flat washers and axle holder from studs at end of fork slider. 2. See Figure 2. Obtain FORK TUBE HOLDER (Part Number HD-41177) and proceed as follows: a. Clamp end of tool in vise in a horizontal position with plastic knobs facing toward you. b. See Figure 3. With the fork cap bolt topside, clamp fork tube between rubber pads on inboard side of tool. Tighten knobs until fork tube is securely held. 3. Remove fork cap bolt from fork tube plug. Remove quad ring seal. Save bolt but discard quad ring seal. 4. Using wrench flat, slowly unthread fork tube plug from fork tube. Be aware that fork tube plug is under spring pressure, so have a firm grasp on plug as the last thread is turned. 5. Remove fork spring from fork tube. 6. Remove fork assembly from fork tube holder. 7. Turning fork upside down, drain fork oil into drain pan. For best results, slowly pump fork tube and slider at least 10 times. 8. Install fork spring back into fork tube. 9. Place a shop rag on the floor, and turning fork assembly upside down, press end of spring against rag. While compressing spring to prevent rotation of damper tube, remove 6mm screw from end of fork slider. Use air impact wrench for best results. 10. Remove and discard fork spring. 11. Remove and discard damper tube. 12. Remove wear ring and rebound spring. Discard rebound spring. Do not expand or stretch retaining clip to remove from fork tube or clip may become bent or distorted. 13. Using pick tool, remove retaining clip between fork slider and fork tube. 14. Remove fork tube from fork slider. NOTE To overcome any resistance, use the fork tube as a slide hammer, that is, first push fork tube into fork slider and then pull it outward with a moderate amount of force. Repeat this sequence until fork tube separates from fork slider. 15. Slide fork oil seal, slider spacer and slider bushing off end of fork tube. Discard fork oil seal and slider bushing. 16. Remove the lower stop. Right and Left Fork-Assembly Exercise caution to avoid scratching or nicking fork tube. Damaging tube can result in fork oil leaks after assembly. 1. See Service Parts Illustration. Obtain new Damper Tube (Item 7, Part Number 46532-04) from kit. Obtain new Rebound Spring (Item 8, Part Number 46273-02) from kit and install on opposite end. Install wear ring removed in step 12. 2. With the wear ring topside, slide new damper tube into fork tube, so that tube end drops through hole at bottom of fork tube. Install lower stop at end of damper tube. 3. Install fork slider in fork tube holder. Slide fork tube into fork slider. 4. If necessary, obtain new slider bushing (14) (Part Number 45940-84, not included). Coat slider bushing ID with clean fork oil. Slide slider bushing down fork tube. 5. Slide slider spacer down fork tube until it contacts slider bushing.

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Yamaha V-Star 1100 Custom and Classic cruisers Floorboard/ Footpeg Extension Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 09-11-2010

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Start on the right (brake) side. 1) Loosen the nut at the end of the brake rod. This will allow you to unscrew the brake rod from the brake lever clevis later. 2) Pull out the cotter pin and remove the pivot pin. Unscrew the clevis 3) Then using a 14mm socket or box-end wrench, remove the two bolts that hold the brake floorboard/footpeg assembly (whichever your bike has) to the frame. These bolts are torqued to 46 ft lbs, so this may be a bit difficult. 1. Loosen this nut 2. Remove the cotter pin (other side of this pivot pin) remove the pivot pin a unscrew the nut to remove the clevis nd 3. Remove these bolts When you remove the floorboard/footpeg bracket, be careful not to pull the brake switch wires loose. You may wish to cut the cable tie for more room, and then rest the bracket, with the footpeg or floorboard attached, on a short box, or block of wood, to keep it handy. Install the new brake rod, to the end of the existing brake rod. Re-install the pivot pin, and the pivot pin cotter pin. Installing the extension bar: Note that the extension bar is bolted so that it rises up in front. Use the new bolts to mount the floorboard/ footpeg bracket to the threaded holes in front. Install the Extension in the proper orientation (angled holes bolt up to the frame, with front of the bar higher than the rear – see photo) using the stock bolts for the extensions to the frame and the new bolts and washers supplied with the kit, on the forward threaded section to relocate the floorboard or footpeg bracket. The use of LocTite ® Blue here is recommended. At this point the right side Floorboard or Footpeg should be secured tightly and the brake lever hanging loose. Now install the Brake rod extension, threading the male end to the original brake rod. Don’t tighten this end yet Place the clevis over the forward most end of the brake rod extension, and threat the clevis nut onto the end of the rod. Bring the brake rod upright, to meet with the clevis at the end of the brake rod extension and replace the pivot pin. Before reinstalling the cotter pin, check the angle of the brake lever, to insure that you have the brake pedal where you want. If necessary, adjust the extension rod in or out, until you are satisfied, and then reinstall the cotter pin into the pivot pin. Check the Brake switch wire and install a new cable tie if required. Note: Due to utilizing a thicker material, 1/2″ versus 3/8″ from our competitor, the Brake rod is now positioned at a greater angle. Even with the angle, braking performance is not affected, but if you wish to bring the master cylinder in line with the brake rod, do this. Loosen the rear, and remove the front Allen bolt. Then place two washers behind the front bolt, under the bracket, and then re-install the bolts To change the angle of the brake rod, 1) loosen and remove the two master cylinder bracket Allen bolts 2) insert two washers behind the front bolt (front of the bike), behind the master cylinder bracket 3) tighten both bolts. Do not install any washers on the rear mounting hole. This will make the angle of the Brake Rod less aggressive. Step Two – Left Side For the left (Shifter) side, 1) use an open-end 10 mm wrench, to unscrew the two nuts that hold the shift rod in place. PLEASE note that one end of the shift rod has a left hand threaded nut. SAVE the nuts, as you will need them on the new longer Polished Stainless Steel Shift Rod. 2) Remove the stock shift rod. 3) Then using a 14mm socket or box-end wrench, remove the two bolts that hold the shifter floorboard/footpeg assembly (whichever your bike has) to the frame.

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Honda GL1000/1100 starter motor Removal/ Over haul Manual

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 08-04-2011

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1. Remove the three long bolts that hold the sections together and separate them. Be careful as there are a series of flat thrust washers on each end of the armature (located in the middle section). 2. The end cap basically performs no function other than to cover the brush plate and commutator area as well as center the armature shaft in a pressed in bushing located in the end of the cap. 3. The drive end contains the reduction gearing and if need be, can be disassembled to replace the bearing. This is extremely unlikely. The shaft should turn freely and normally only requires a cleaning and grease application. If the bearing in fact needs replacing, simply remove the “C” clips on either end, drive out the bearing and reinstall with an appropriate size replacement. Any decent auto parts / industrial supply should be able to supply the correct bearing. 4. Remove the brush plate from the end of the center section by removing the screw at the one brush connection. Before removing the brushes, note that one of them has an insulating sleeve over the braided wire. The replacement must go in the same brush holder. Remove the brushes and replace if necessary and clean the brush plate. ** Brake Cleaner is a good general cleaner for this entire job. 5. Remove the thrust washers from brush plate end of the armature. Count them and ensure they go back on the correct way. 6. The end of the center section that had the drive end on it has a circular plate covering it with a short splined shaft protruding through the plate. Drive the plate out by tapping the opposite end of the section on the shaft – just lightly with a rubber hammer or piece of wood to protect the shaft. Once the plate is out, remove the armature from the section. You will find more thrust washers at this end. Make sure they go back on correctly. 7. In the center of the center section there are four large Philips screws. These hold in the field coils found within the housing. Using an “impact driver”, loosen the four screws that go around the circumference of the center section and remove them. Remove the 10mm nut for the battery connection and the accompanying fiber insulating washers. With the screws and nut removed, the entire field coil assembly should withdraw entirely from the housing. There will be four (4) metal plates that the screws mounted into come falling out. They are easily replaced into the field coils when you slide it back into the housing. Do not be alarmed that you suddenly have four loose metal parts. 8. With everything out of the housing, thoroughly clean everything using the Brake Cleaner. Although the cleaner will dry without leaving a film, it is suggested that the components be dried with compressed air. 9. Get some extremely fine steel wool (“000″ of even “0000″ is better) and gently clean the metal surfaces or bars of the armature and the commutator. Blow with compressed air. 10. Using a volt/ohmeter, test for continuity between pairs of armature bars (the long ones). There should be continuity between the pairs around the entire circumference.

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Kawasaki Mule 3010 Hood Rack Installation And Operations Manual

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 28-04-2012

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1. Install the Seizmik Brush Guard. – Have a friend hold the brush guard (G) in place while you slide the 1.0″ dia. tube clamps (K) in place over the middle tube of the OEM bumper, as shown in Figure 1. Secure each one in place with one of the 3/8″ x 2.25″ bolts (N), two 3/8″ washers (Q), and one 3/8″ nylock nut (R). Repeat at the top tube of the OEM bumper using the 1.5″ dia. tube clamps (J), and 3/8″ x 1.75″ bolts (O). VEHICLE FRONT Figure 2. 2. Mounting brackets – Attach the two hood rack mounting brackets to the mounting pads of the brush guard, as shown in Figure 2. Use four of the 3/8″ x 1.0″ bolts (P), eight 3/8″ washers (Q), and four 3/8″ nylock nuts (R) per mounting pad. Snug down the fasteners but do not fully tighten them yet. 3 Figure 3. 3. Crush sleeves – Insert a crush sleeve (B) into each cantilever arm assembly (C & D), as shown in Figure 3. 4. Cantilever arms – Position the Driver side cantilever arm (C) on the mounting bracket, and insert a 3/8″ dia. pivot bolt (M), as shown in Figure 4. Add a 3/8″ washer (Q) and nylock nut (R) on the other side and snug down the assembly; leave the fasteners loose enough so the components can be repositioned for fitment. Repeat this step for the passenger side. Figure 4. 4 Figure 5. 5. Lock pins – Insert the 1/2″ lock pins (Y) into the tabs on each side of the Brush Guard, fixing the cantilever arms in place, as shown in Figure 5.

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Kawasaki Mule Lift Kit Installation Manual

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 04-05-2012

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Front Lift Installation 1. Ensuring that the parking brake is set, place jack under center of the Mule front end and lift until front wheels clear the ground. Be careful to support Mule properly so that it is secure, but so that the A-arms and struts can droop to full extension. 2. Remove front wheels. 3. If applicable, remove the heater to allow access to the strut mount behind the heater coil. Heater 4. Starting with the left side (driver side), remove the cotter pin and castle nut that secures the strut to the strut mount. Castle Nut & Pen 5. Push bolt through the bolthole, taking care not to damage the brake line that is attached to the bolt. If you are having difficulty removing the bolt, you may have to remove the brake lines that are attached to the front brakes. In this case refer to owners manual for removing brake lines. Screwdriver NOTE: Keep in mind that if you remove the brake lines you must bleed your brakes according to operator’s manual. 6. Once the bottom of the strut has been loosened, then unbolt the top of the strut. The nuts securing the top strut can be located in the dash of the Mule on the left and right sides. In most cases these nuts are easily accessible, but you may have to remove the glove box or heater coils, depending on the model and options purchased with the Mule.

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TOYOTA ALL MODELS AM STATIC NOISE ON VEHICLES WITH POWER ANTENNAS

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Filed Under (Toyota Manuals) by admin on 16-10-2011

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Vehicles with power antennas may exhibit audible electrical noise on weak AM stations when various electrical accessories (turn signals, rear defogger, cruise control, brakes, etc.) are operated. Poor antenna grounding can cause this condition. To eliminate or reduce the intensity of the noise, use the following repair procedure: AM STATIC NOISE ON VEHICLES WITH POWER ANTENNAS Page 1 of 2 OCTOBER 25, 1996 AUDIO AU002-96 ALL MODELS REPAIR PROCEDURE: 1. Tune the radio to a strong, static-free AM station and slowly move the tip of the antenna
mast forward and back approximately 2 inches (Fig. 1). If static noise is not heard, go to Step 2. If static noise is heard during antenna movement, replace the antenna mast and go to Step 3. NOTE: Do not touch the antenna mast with your bare hands. Use a glove or nonmetallic object to move the antenna. (If you touch the antenna with your hands, you will change the antenna sensitivity). 2. Remove the antenna mast and inspect the base of the mast for corrosion and damage (Fig. 2). Clean with 1500 grit sandpaper. 3. Remove the antenna assembly and inspect the inner fender around the antenna hole for corrosion (Fig. 3). Clean with 1500 grit sandpaper.

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Triumph Center Mount Oil Pressure Gauge with active oil light Installation

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Filed Under (Triumph) by admin on 29-10-2010

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Remove the two hex head screws and spacers that secure the handlebars. Attach the oil pressure mounting bracket using the bolts removed earlier. It is not necessary to use the spacers as the bracket is the same thickness as the spacers that were removed. Make sure the oil pressure gauge bracket is clamped securely so that the handlebars cannot rotate. This part of the assembly is complete. Do not tighten the fitting mounted on the far side of the Swivel body. This fitting is designed to rotate and is sealed in place with Loctite 242 thread sealant. Over tightening will shear the threads resulting in destruction of the fitting. Remove oil pressure sending unit. Sit the copper crush washer aside for future use. The Swivel and Swivel Adaptor are supplied assembled. Remove the plug from the rear of the Swivel. Slip the crush washer removed earlier over the end of the Adaptor. There is an ‘O’-ring seal between the Adaptor and the Swivel, leaving the two assembled will prevent damage to the seal. Thread the Adaptor, with Swivel still attached, into the port from where the original sending unit was removed. With the use of a 5/32″ Allan wrench, reach inside the Swivel and tighten the Swivel against the Adaptor. Install the original oil pressure sending unit in the top port as shown using the new copper crush washer supplied. Use a wrench on both the Swivel and the original oil pressure sending unit to prevent imparting stress on the Adaptor to Swivel junction. Reinstall the 1/8 NPT plug in the end of the Swivel using with the use of a 3/16″ Allan wrench. Use Loctite 242 or equivalent semi-permanent thread sealant at this junction. Do not over tighten. Use a 3/16″ Allan wrench on the plug and an open end wrench on the Swivel to prevent imparting stress on the Adaptor to Swivel junction. Next, attach one end of the oil pressure line to the swivel fitting (located far side) by pushing the end of the tubing into the hole at the end of the fitting. FYI: these fittings are quick disconnect and self-clinching. They need only to be pushed in to connect. They will not slip out unless the ferrule at the end of the fitting is pushed back away from the tubing as the tubing is pulled from the fitting. Routing: Next, route the other end of the tube up along the frame and in front of the steering head over to the fitting in the gauge body. Avoid the exhaust pipes when routing the tubing. Push the end of the tube into the gauge fitting as was done at the swivel fitting at the other end of the tube. The tubing can be removed and cut to the length required by your routing. Make sure there is enough service loop remaining so

Indian Rocker Arm End Play Rear Cylinder/ Front Cylinder Installation

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Filed Under (Indian) by admin on 12-11-2010

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Rear Cylinder 1Rotate the engine so that the rear piston is at Top Dead Center (TDC), compression stroke, so no load is on the valves. 2Using a 3/16″ allen wrench, remove the four screws securing the rear cylinder rocker cover. 3Remove the cover and inspect both O-ring seals. Discard if damaged or worn. 4Push both rocker arms towards the valve end support bracket (A) and using a feeler gauge check the gap between the rocker arms and the pushrod end support bracket (B). NOTE: The Rocker arm end play specification should be between 0.003″ to 0.012″. 5 Compare the measurement to the specification an determine whether adjustment is necessary. If the end play is within specification, adjustment will not be required. Refit the rocker cover (instructions 14 to 15) and carry out the same inspection on the front cylinder . If the measurement is outside the specification, adjustment will be required and shimming will be necessary (follow the remainder of these instructions). Adjustment 6Using a 1/4″ allen wrench remove the 4 screws securing the rocker shaft assembly.Refit the LH support bracket and reposition the complete assembly on the rocker base. Make sure that the three dowels are in place and the slots in the rocker shafts are properly aligned with the mounting screw holes in the RH support bracket. 11Clean the threads of the 4 support bracket screws and apply Blue Loctite to the first 4 threads. 12Fit the 1-3/4″ screws into the LH support bracket (A) and the 2″ screws to the RH bracket (B). Torque all screws in cross pattern to 16-20 foot-pounds. CAUTION: The rear piston must be at TDC, compression stroke, when tightening the support bracket screws. 13Re-check the rocker end play to ensure it is within specifica- tion. 13Lubricate the two O-rings with clean engine oil and refit them in the grooves in the rocker base. 14Refit the rocker cover.

Audiovox CCS-100 Cruise Control Installation Manual

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 10-11-2010

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You can see where I drilled the holes to mount the bracket. (2566, 2567) You’ll have to bend the bracket to fit and reposition it on the servo (the extra holes are already there on the servo to move the bracket). Just bend it until it lays flat on the back of the plastic box. You’ll have to unbolt the two bolts that hold the plastic box in place to work on it. I made the hole in the front of the box (where the servo cable goes through) way too large, but I wasn’t sure what angle it would be at when I installed it, so I kept cutting it bigger so the cable wouldn’t be bent too sharp. (2565) I ran the servo cable along the top frame under the tank, around the front cylinder and into a bracket (that came with the unit) that I cut off to fit. I attached the bracket to the screw on the air cleaner, but you really have to do a lot of grinding on the bracket to get it to fit the area so that it will lay flat and tighten up with the screw. You’ll see what I mean when you put a piece of metal or bracket up to that hole. It’s not flat, so I used a moto-tool to cut slots in the bracket and a grinder to grind it down smaller so that it would fit in that area. I used the long “cable” and no bead chain to connect to the throttle. (2560) First take off your throttle grip and release the “pull” cable (the front one) so you can remove it from the carb lever. Then put the cable end over the throttle cable end and re-insert it, then re-assemble your throttle. Hook the ball on the end of the long cable (there are two or three cables in the kit, use the long one) to one of the bead chain connectors (you have to spread it first) and then close it back up. (2563) Spread the other end and hook it to the servo cable and then using your pliers, close it again. Ok, now you have the servo all hooked up. You’ll need a vacuum canister, which you can buy at JC Whitney, or make one from PCV pipe (2″) with caps. (2554, 2555) Drill two 5/16″ holes in the pipe, tap(1/8″) them and insert brass 3/16″ nipples for your vacuum hose. (2568) Hook the black of the Napa one-way vacuum check valve end up to your engine vacuum and the blue end to your canister. I disconnected the emissions canister from the cylinder number one intake. I then uncapped the vacuum tap on the number two cylinder intake and connected the two together with a “T” (from the kit) and the connected the remaining end of the “T” to the black end of the check valve. (2556) The other nipple on your canister gets connected to the servo (drill a whole in the bottom of the black box to run it in). Wiring: Drill a hole in the top of the black box to run the wiring harness out. I’d suggest you take a roll of electrical tape and tape it up first. Leave the black ground wire out of the tape and also leave the purple and red wires out of the taped area about 8″ or 10″ up from the servo. You’ll want them near the servo so you can cross them over the bike to the right side and hook the black wire directly to the negative side of the battery. The purple wire connects to the yellow brake light wire and the red wire connects to the blue wire, which is hot when the key is on. The rest of the harness you can run along the left side of the frame, using wire tires to tie it off. Leave the blue wire out of the harness as you get to the front cylinder (so you can hook it to the front coil), or you could use the back cylinder coil. You can make a little “Y” harness out of spade connectors (female on one end, and male on the other two ends) to join the blue wire to the coil. Use the gray wire on the front coil or the orange wire on the rear coil

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