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KTM Starter Gear Maintenance Instructions

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Filed Under (KTM) by admin on 26-11-2010

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Checking the electric starter motor for wear -Check Bendix 1 for smooth operation and signs of wear. -Check the sprocket of the electric starter for wear and radial clearance. -Replace O-ring 2 of the electric starter. -Replace gasket 3 . -Check starter idler gear 4 for smooth operation and wear, check that the bearing bushings are seated firmly. Electric starter motor – checking for and adjusting play -Mount the electric starter and the starter idler gear. -Mount the tighten cover 5 . -Move starter idler gear 4 back and forth in the direction of rotation, the maximum play may not exceed half the width of a tooth. -If play is larger, cover 5 must be removed and as many shims 6 with a thickness of 0.10 mm as necessary must be added to eliminate all play. Then remove one shim again. -Check the play again; the maximum play may not exceed more than half of the width of a tooth. 1 2 3 4 5 4 5 6

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2001-2003 XV16 Fuel Pump and Carburetor Removal

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 31-12-2011

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Disconnect the carburetor fuel line hose at the fuel pump. •Disconnect the fuel pump wire coupler. •Remove the choke cable from fuel pump bracket. •Remove the upper engine mount, leaving the fuel pump attached to the mount. •Disconnect the TPS and carburetor wire couplers.       Disconnect the throttle cables, and then remove the carburetor. NOTE: The idle adjuster can be removed from its bracket without loosening the bracket screws. PAGE 3 of 12 HIDDEN 6mm SCREW 6mm BOLT UPPER ENGINE MOUNT/ FUEL PUMP CARBURETOR PAGE 4 of 12 Right-Hand Footrest Removal: •Disconnect and remove the brake light switch. •Remove the forward-most tie wrap around the brake hose and frame. •Remove the footrest assembly. NOTE: Leave the brake hose attached. Move the hose to the underside of the foot rest mount and support it as necessary so that it is out of the way Cylinder Head Oil Pipe Removal/ Installation: •Slightly loosen all three banjo bolts before removing them to prevent oil line deformation. NOTE: When loosening the upper banjo bolts, hold the line in place using a wrench at the flat surface on the fitting. Air Injection System (AIS) Removal: •Remove the electric starter motor. •Remove the regulator/rectifier assembly. Remove the AIS pipes from the cylinder head, but leave them attached to the AIS assembly. •Remove the three screws with 8mm heads, and then remove the AIS air filter from the right side. •Remove the three Phillips head screws holding    the AIS assembly on the frame. •Remove the AIS assembly from the left side. FOOTREST ASSEMBLY UPPER BANJO BOLT AIS AIR FILTER AIS ASSEMBLY
PAGE 5 of 12 Transfer Case Removal: •Remove the transfer case bracket first. Then remove the outer chrome cover, inner cover, and drive-sprocket nut. NOTE: There is a sealing washer between the inner case and the transfer case at the 8mm stud. Be sure to replace it during re-assembly. •Remove the two chrome oil lines between the engine and oil tank. NOTE: Retain the four O-rings for re-use. •Remove the drive pulley cover and remove the drive pulley nut. •Loosen the drive belt tension. •Remove the drive pulley, inner cover, collar, and O-ring. NOTE: The collar has a bevel on its inside diameter     for the O-ring facing inward and a bevel on the outside diameter facing the pulley. •Remove the drive and driven sprockets with chain as an assembly. •Remove the collar and O-ring. NOTE: Collar has a bevel on its inside diameter that faces inward for the O-ring. •Remove oil tank filler neck. •Remove the relay bracket on the right-hand side. NOTE: Leave the relays connected. Simply move them out of the way to allow room for transfer case removal. •Slide the transfer case out from the right side.

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YAMAHA V-Star 1100 Carburetor Bowl Screw Repair and Removal After Stripping and Pilot Cap Removal

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 19-01-2012

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When I first started working on bike many years ago, I learned the danger of stripping the heads of Philips screws when removing or installing them on motorcycles. I remember the two worst screws were the casing side-cover aluminum screws and carburetor bowl screws. I think I tried every method of screw removal after they were stripped. Vice grips, better tipped screwdriver, hammer, drill, and other tools were used. One way I learned to remove stripped screws is to re-make the Philips head into a flathead screw. Cutting a slot in the top of the screw and then use a flat-head screwdriver to remove the screw. On some parts this technique can work, other parts and screws it may not. The Philips screws on the bottom of the V-Star carburetor bowls are VERY prone to stripping. In fact, I will not start a carburetor cleaning without new hex head screws to replace the original Philips bowl screws. Replace the bowl screws for yourself if you keep the bike, or for the next rider that will appreciate the hex-head screws when they clean the carburetors. Not many other parts on a V-Star have screws that are prone to stripping. This documentation is to help riders with motorcycle maintenance. Some riders will find themselves with the problem of removing stripped screws. A carburetor cleaning can quickly double in time when you realize the hardest part of the job is removing bowl screws after they strip. And then realizing you do not have the replacement hex-head screws available and must now go to the hardware store.

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Honda GL1000/1100 starter motor Removal/ Over haul Manual

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 08-04-2011

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1. Remove the three long bolts that hold the sections together and separate them. Be careful as there are a series of flat thrust washers on each end of the armature (located in the middle section). 2. The end cap basically performs no function other than to cover the brush plate and commutator area as well as center the armature shaft in a pressed in bushing located in the end of the cap. 3. The drive end contains the reduction gearing and if need be, can be disassembled to replace the bearing. This is extremely unlikely. The shaft should turn freely and normally only requires a cleaning and grease application. If the bearing in fact needs replacing, simply remove the “C” clips on either end, drive out the bearing and reinstall with an appropriate size replacement. Any decent auto parts / industrial supply should be able to supply the correct bearing. 4. Remove the brush plate from the end of the center section by removing the screw at the one brush connection. Before removing the brushes, note that one of them has an insulating sleeve over the braided wire. The replacement must go in the same brush holder. Remove the brushes and replace if necessary and clean the brush plate. ** Brake Cleaner is a good general cleaner for this entire job. 5. Remove the thrust washers from brush plate end of the armature. Count them and ensure they go back on the correct way. 6. The end of the center section that had the drive end on it has a circular plate covering it with a short splined shaft protruding through the plate. Drive the plate out by tapping the opposite end of the section on the shaft – just lightly with a rubber hammer or piece of wood to protect the shaft. Once the plate is out, remove the armature from the section. You will find more thrust washers at this end. Make sure they go back on correctly. 7. In the center of the center section there are four large Philips screws. These hold in the field coils found within the housing. Using an “impact driver”, loosen the four screws that go around the circumference of the center section and remove them. Remove the 10mm nut for the battery connection and the accompanying fiber insulating washers. With the screws and nut removed, the entire field coil assembly should withdraw entirely from the housing. There will be four (4) metal plates that the screws mounted into come falling out. They are easily replaced into the field coils when you slide it back into the housing. Do not be alarmed that you suddenly have four loose metal parts. 8. With everything out of the housing, thoroughly clean everything using the Brake Cleaner. Although the cleaner will dry without leaving a film, it is suggested that the components be dried with compressed air. 9. Get some extremely fine steel wool (“000″ of even “0000″ is better) and gently clean the metal surfaces or bars of the armature and the commutator. Blow with compressed air. 10. Using a volt/ohmeter, test for continuity between pairs of armature bars (the long ones). There should be continuity between the pairs around the entire circumference.

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REMOTE ENGINE STARTER OWNER’S GUIDE

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Filed Under (Toyota Manuals) by admin on 16-06-2011

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The REMOTE ENGINE STARTER allows you to start your engine from outside the vehicle. It uti-
lizes your vehicle’s keyless entry remote, so there is no need to carry around an extra remote.
The REMOTE ENGINE STARTER is operated the same way for vehicles equipped with or without
the Smart Entry / Push Start system; simply push the remote’s LOCK button in a quick, two-
step sequence. In addition, the REMOTE ENGINE STARTER can activate the heater or air condi-
tioner according to your preset temperature controls, providing you with a comfortable cabin
upon entry. As an added convenience, the REMOTE ENGINE STARTER can also activate the
defroster (when preset) to clear up the windshield during cold weather

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How to Replace your starter : 99 Corolla VE

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Filed Under (Toyota Manuals) by admin on 17-06-2011

Use a 10mm ratchet attachment to remove the battery from the vehicle. Negative terminal first, then positive. Be careful not to cause an arc between the two terminals as intense pain will result.
Remove the plastic plate that the battery sits in. 2. Using the 10mm attachment again, remove the 6 bolts that hold the passenger side front splash guard from underneath the front bumper. 3. From underneath the vehicle, locate the oil filter. Look above oil filter and you will see the starter. Locate the bottom 14 mm bolt that attaches the lower portion of the starter to the engine. The bolt drives from left to right. The starter is mounted toward the front of the vehicle and underneath the intake manifold. Still cant find it?
Follow the cable that leads from the positive battery terminal. It ends at the starter. Not sure you have the right bolt? Stick your 14mm attachment on it with your fingers and see if it fits on properly

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HARLEY DAVIDSON SOFTAIL 6 SPEED TRANSMISSION – COMPLETE INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 13-04-2011

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Removal of Original Transmission 1. Position motorcycle on a suitable lift. To prevent accidental vehicle start-up, which could cause death or serious injury, disconnect battery cables (negative (-) cable first) before proceeding. (00307a) Disconnect negative (-) battery cable first. If positive (+) cable should contact ground with negative (-) cable connected, the resulting sparks can cause a battery explosion, which could result in death or serious injury. (00049a) 2. Refer to the Service Manual and follow the instructions given to remove the seat and disconnect the battery cables, negative cable first. 3. Refer to the TRANSMISSION CASE REMOVAL in the Service Manual and follow the instructions given to remove the components with the following steps. 4. Refer to PRIMARY CHAINCASE COVER REMOVAL in the Service Manual and follow the instructions given to remove the primary chaincase cover. Wear safety glasses or goggles when removing or installing retaining rings. Retaining rings can slip from the pliers and could be propelled with enough force to cause serious eye injury. (00312a) 5. See the PRIMARY CHAIN and COMPENSATING SPROCKET REMOVAL in the Service Manual and use the instructions given to remove the primary drive assem- bly. 6. Refer to the STARTER REMOVAL in the Service Manual and remove the the starter. 7. See the VEHICLE SPEED SENSOR section and unplug the vehicle speedometer sensor connection and remove the mounting bolt. Lift sensor from the transmission case and set aside for later re-installation. 8. Refer to NEUTRAL SWITCH and disconnect the connectors from the neutral switch. 9. Refer to PRIMARY CHAINCASE in the Service Manual and follow the instructions given to remove the primary chaincase housing. 10. Refer to EXHAUST SYSTEM in the Service Manual and remove the exhaust. 11. See the REAR WHEEL REMOVAL and loosen but, do not remove rear axle to relieve drive belt tension and remove the belt from the sprocket from the transmission. 12. Refer to OIL TANK REMOVAL in the Service Manual and follow the instructions given to drain, remove the oil tank and detach the vent, feed and return lines. 13. Refer to CLUTCH CONTROL in the Service Manual and follow the instructions given to remove the clutch cover and disconnect the clutch cable end from the cover. Set the cable aside for later re-installation

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Suzuki GSX1400FE CHASSIS REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION

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Filed Under (Suzuki) by admin on 17-12-2010

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REMOVAL SEAT Remove the seat with the ignition key. FRAM COVERS Remove the seat. (*Above) Remove the frame cover mounting secrews (left and right sides). Remove the frame covers by pulling on the hooked parts. PILLION RIDER HANDLE Remove the pillion rider handle by removing the pillion rider handle mounting bolts. SEAT TAIL COVER Remove the seat. (*Above) Remove the pillion rider handle. (*Above) Remove the seat tail cover mounting screws. : hooked part 6-4 CHASSIS Remove the fasteners.(*6-5) Disconnect the seat lock cable A. Disconnect the brake light/taillight lead wire coupler. Remove the seat tail cover. REMOUNTING Remount the seat, frame covers, pillion rider handle and seat tail cover in the reverse order of removal. www.GSX1400FE.co.uk
CHASSIS 6-5 FASTENER REMOVAL AND REINSTALLATION FASTENER REMOVAL Depress the head of fasteners center piece 1. Pull out the fastener. INSTALLATION Let the center piece stick out toward the head so that the pawls 2 close. Insert the fastener into the installation hole. NOTE: To prevent the pawl 2 from damage, insert the fastener all the way into the installation hole. Push in the head of center piece until it becomes flush with the fastener outside face.

Suzuki B-King GSX1300 BK Suspension Removal and Installation

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Filed Under (Suzuki) by admin on 01-12-2010

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Front Fork Removal and Installation B823H12206002 NOTE The right and left front forks are installed symmetrically and therefore the removal procedure for one side is the same as that for the other side. Removal 1) Remove the front wheel assembly. Refer to “Front Wheel Assembly Removal and Installation in Section 2D (Page 2D-4)”. CAUTION ! •Make sure that the motorcycle is supported securely. •Do not operate the front brake lever with the front wheel removed. 2) Disconnect the brake hose clamp (1) from the front fender. 3) Disconnect the brake hose (2) from the brake hose clamp. 4) Remove the front fender by removing the bolts (3) , left and right. 5) Remove the reflex reflector for E-03, 24, 28, 33. 6) After removing of the headlight cover upper screws (4), move the headlight assembly forward. 7) Loose the front fork upper clamp bolt (5). NOTE •Slightly loosen the front fork cap bolt (6) to facilitate later disassembly. •Be sure to adjust the rebound damping force adjuster (7) to the softest position before removing the front fork. 8) Loosen the front fork lower clamp bolts (8) and remove the front fork. NOTE Hold the front fork by the hand to prevent sliding out of the steering stem. Installation 1) Set the front fork to the front fork lower bracket temporarily by tightening the lower clamp bolts (1) . 2) Tighten the front fork cap bolt (2) to the specified torque. Tightening torque Front fork cap bolt (a): 23 N·m (2.3 kgf-m, 16.5 lb-ft) 3) Loosen the lower clamp bolts. 4) Set the front fork with the upper surface “T” of the outer tube positioned 3.0 mm (0.12 in) “a” from the upper surface of the steering stem upper bracket. 5) Tighten the front fork lower clamp bolts (1). Tightening torque Front fork lower clamp bolt (b): 23 N·m (2.3 kgf- m, 16.5 lb-ft) 6) Tighten the front fork upper clamp bolt (3). Tightening torque Front fork upper clamp bolt (c): 23 N·m (2.3 kgf- m, 16.5 lb-ft

HARLEY DAVIDSON CHROME BILLET LIFTER-COVER KIT REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 25-02-2011

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Installation with Stock Pushrods Refer to the service manual for your motorcycle model. Installation with Adjustable Pushrods Lifter-Cover Removal Installing or removing the pushrods with the valve train loaded can result in engine damage. On the cylinder being serviced, always set the lifters to the base circle on the cam before servicing pushrods, lifters, rocker arms, and valves. 1. Set the lifters of the rear cylinder to their lowest point, or base circle, on the cam. Refer to Setting the Lifters to the Base Circle in this instruction sheet. 2. See Figure 1. Insert a screwdriver into the slot on the side of the spring-cap retainer on the pushrod cover. 3. Press the spring-cap and retainer down while pulling outward to remove the spring-cap retainer. 4. See Figure 2. Lift the lower pushrod cover to reveal the lower third of the pushrod. 5. If the engine has stock pushrods installed and you are installing adjustable pushrods with this lifter-cover installation, go to step 6. If the engine already has adjustable pushrods installed and you are installing adjustable pushrods with this lifter-cover installation, go to step 7 6. Use a bolt cutter or similar tool to cut the stock pushrod. Avoid cutting the pushrods with a saw, grinder, or other method that may allow metal debris into the engine. Go to step 8. 7. Loosen the jam nut on each adjustable pushrod and resize each rod to its shortest length. 8. Remove the pushrod covers and pushrods from the engine. 9. Remove the O-rings from the seats in the engine at the top and bottom of the pushrod cover. 10. Remove the four screws fastening the lifter cover to the engine to remove the cover and gasket. 11. Remove old lifter-cover gasket material from the engine, taking care not to allow material to fall into the engine. Continue to Lifter-Cover Installation in this I-Sheet. Lifter-Cover Installation 1. See Figure 3. Verify that the lifter anti-rotation pin is in position. Installing or removing the pushrods with the valve train loaded can result in engine damage. On the cylinder being serviced, always set the lifters to the base circle on the cam before servicing pushrods, lifters, rocker arms, and valves. 2. Verify that the cylinder lifters are set to their lowest point, or base circle, on the cam. Refer to Setting the Lifters to the Base Circle in this instruction sheet. 3. Fasten the new lifter-cover gasket and chrome billet lifter cover to the engine using the chrome screws from this kit. In a cross pattern, torque the lifter-cover screws to 90 – 120 in-lbs (10.2 – 13.6 Nm). 4. See Figure 4. Loosen the jam nut on all of the pushrods and adjust the pushrods to their shortest length. NOTE See Figures 4 and 5. Install the narrow-band pushrods in the cylinder-intake location. Install the wide-band pushrods in the cylinder-exhaust location. 5. Assemble the O-rings (purchased separately) and pushrod covers. 6. Install the pushrods with the pushrod covers. The adjustment-end of the pushrod must be on the lifter

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