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Triumph Bonneville America And Speedmaster The Freak Installation Instructions and Parts List

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Filed Under (Triumph) by admin on 29-10-2010

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INSTALLATION In order to install The Freak, the factory air-box must be removed. Because of it’s design, the factory air-box is not an item that is easily removed. There are several parts that must be removed in order to get the air-box out of the bike in one piece. We recommend using the following method to remove your air box without having to cut it into smaller pieces in order to get it out of the frame. 1. PARTS REMOVAL In order to gain access to the air-box, it is necessary to remove certain parts of the motorcycle to gain access to the air-box area of the frame. Removing the following parts should be the first steps you take. A. Seats – Remove both seats starting with the passenger pillion, if applicable. B. Side cover and grommets – Remove the plastic side cover on the right side (throttle side) of your motorcycle. This is the faux oil-tank cover that has the name of your bike on it. Underneath the side cover there are three rubber grommets (1 on the frame tab, and two on the air-box) that support the side cover. Remove the two that are on the air-box and leave the one on the frame. You will attach the two that you removed to the right side bracket in Section 4C . C. Faux air filter covers – On the right side of the bike, remove the chrome faux air filter covers, by removing the one allen head screw that holds it onto the air-box. On the left hand side (clutch side) remove the faux air filter cover in the same manner, you removed the one on the right. D. Plastic shrouds – on the left side, remove the black plastic air-box shroud, by removing the two allen head screws holding it in place. Then remove the plastic shroud covering your fuse box (this is the piece that surrounds your ignition terminal next to the battery). E. Battery – Remove the battery by unscrewing the torx-head bolt that holds the chrome bracket in place. Remove the chrome bracket and the black plastic cap. Tilt the battery out of the box with the top towards you. Disconnect both battery terminal connectors, negative (-) terminal first. Remove the battery. F. Battery box – Remove the two bolts that hold the battery box to the frame. Pull the battery box out as far as you can, then remove the the ignition terminal from the battery box, by removing the two allen screws that hold it in place from the back. Next, remove the fuse box from the battery box, by pushing it out from the back. It is not necessary to disconnect any of the wiring going to the fuse box, or the ignition terminal. G. Rear fender – Remove the rear fender, by first disconnecting the taillight wires. Follow the wires from the tail light assembly on the inside of the rear fender (left side) towards the front of the bike until you come to the box connector. Disconnect the tail light wires at this connector, being careful not to break it. Once the wiring is disconnected, remove the 6 bolts that hold it to the struts. Have someone hold the fender for you while you are removing all of the bolts so that it does not drop once the bolts are removed. Slide the fender out the rear of the bike. 2. PREPARE THE MOTORCYCLE FOR AIR-BOX REMOVAL To remove the factory air-box without damaging it, it is necessary to lift the bike. We recommend the use of a multi-position ATV/motorcycle jack with a minimum lift height of 10″. A. Setting up the lift – Place the lift under your bike and secure your bike to the lift according to the lift manufacturer’s instructions. B. Raise slightly – Lift the motorcycle to the point where the rear springs are without tension, but NOT to where the rear tire is off the ground. C. Remove the rear springs – Take off each of the rear springs by removing the the two bolts on each spring. Once all the bolts are removed gently pull the springs out off of the studs. If they do not pull off easily, you can raise or lower the bike slightly with the lift to ease tension on the spring. Remember, you should not have the rear tire off the ground at this point. The bike should only be raised enough to relax the tension in the springs. D. Remove the mufflers – Remove the mufflers by loosening the clamp at the exhaust header, and by removing the rear foot peg hangers. If the mufflers are not removed, they can become damaged by the axles in Section 2H . E. Disconnect the carburetors – With a small flathead screwdriver, pull the retainer springs out of the channel of the carburetor intake tubes (the two large black tubes coming from the air box into the back of each carburetor), and simply push them towards the air box off of the carbs

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Kawasaki Sxi/ SXR Ignition twin cylinder Jet Ski ignition Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 25-10-2010

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1. Remove electronics enclosure from its mounting location. 2. Unplug and remove the OEM ignition. 3. Set the programming switches on the T3 to your settings. 4. Install the T3 Ignition in the same location in the electronics enclosure. 5. Test the T3 Ignition. 6. Close the electronics enclosure cover plate and mount the module in the PWC. Installation Remove electronics enclosure from its Mounting Location 1. Using a 10mm socket remove the mounting bolts on each side of the electronics enclosure. 2. Remove the enclosure cover and set aside the screws, 2 mounting flanges, ‘O” ring, and enclosure top. Unplug and Remove the OEM Ignition 1. Using 10mm socket, remove bolts from each side of the OEM ignition. Lift out the ignition and unplug all connectors attached to the OEM ignition. Now remove the protective metal plate that was under the ignition and two 3/16″ thick washers under that plate. 2. On 2004 models and newer remove the wire harness for the two black connectors just unplugged from the OEM ignition. Trace each wire from each black connector back to in-line connectors and separate each of these connectors. Set the two harnesses aside. Install the T3 Ignition in the Electronics Enclosure 1. Install the T3 ignition into the mounting bracket supplied with your T3. Slide the end of the ignition module under the lip at the rear of the bracket an press the wire end of the ignition firmly into the bracket. Attach the keeper bracket using two 5mm bolts supplied. Place the ignition/bracket in the location where the OEM ignition and metal plate were removed. Secure the ignition in place with the supplied bolts

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NORTON LIGHTWEIGHT TWIN ELECTRONIC IGNITION Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Norton) by admin on 31-10-2010

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1. All connections must be of the highest quality, use crimped or soldered connections; twisted wires will not give a satisfactory operation. 2. Remove the petrol tank and/or seat to gain access to the ignition coils, condensers and wiring. 3. For safety, disconnect the battery (preferably both terminals). 4. Remove timing cover. 5. Disconnect the two wires (usually black-white & black-yellow) and remove the contact-breaker plate. At the other end, these two wires must be disconnected from the ignition coils & condensers. The condensers are no longer required and can be removed. They should not be connected to the electronic ignition system. 6. Remove auto-advance unit. 7. Disconnect the remaining wires from the ignition coils. These come from the ignition switch supply. The colour of this ignition supply wire may be different on some machines; if so check using a test lamp or meter to find the live wire when the ignition is switched on. 8. Find a suitable place for the ignition module, preferably near to the ignition coils. Secure the ignition module to the frame using one or more large cable ties. An adhesive mounting base is provided; this can be affixed to the underside of the module and the cable tie passed through and around the module and frame. Do not completely wrap the module in foam rubber. 9. Using the black coil link wire, connect the negative (—) terminal of one ignition coil to the positive (+) terminal of the other ignition coil. See figs. 1/2 on page 7. • BLACK COIL LINK WIRE • RED EARTHING WIRE • CRIMP CONNECTORS & INSULATORS • LARGE & SMALL CABLE TIES • CABLE TIE ADHESIVE MOUNTING BASE 3 10. Take the black wire from the ignition module, cut to length and fit an insulator and female spade connector to the end. Connect to the negative (—) terminal on ignition coil #2. See figs. 1/2 on page 7. 11. Take the red wire from the ignition module, cut to length and fit an insulator and female spade connector to the end. Connect to the positive (+) terminal on ignition coil #1. See figs. 1/2 on page 7. 12. For NEGATIVE EARTH electrics go to step 15. 13. For POSITIVE EARTH electrics (standard): Take the white wire from the ignition module, cut to length and fit an insulator and male spade connector to the end. Connect to one of the negative ignition feed wires previously removed in step 7. The other wire (if fitted) is spare and should be covered with insulation to prevent shorting to the frame etc. 14. Take the red earthing wire, fit an insulator and female spade connector on one end and connect to the positive (+) terminal on ignition coil #1. Cut to length and fit a ring terminal on the other end and connect to a good earth point on the frame, ideally the battery positive (+) terminal. See fig.1 GOTO STEP 17.

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HI-4 DUAL FIRE MOTORCYCLE IGNITION INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 09-11-2010

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Turn ignition switch off and disconnect battery ground cable. 2. Refer to Figure 3. Remove OE ignition module and wire harness (items 1-4). You will disconnect two wires at the coil (15), a wire going to the VOES (Vacuum Operated Electrical Switch) (18), a black ground wire at the ignition module, and the 3 pin plug (20) that connects to the sensor plate (11). Refer to shop manual for locations. 3. Remove ignition cover plates and gasket (items 5- 9). This will require drilling out two rivets. The rivets will later be replaced with two supplied self- threading screws. 4. In order to remove the sensor plate cable, the cable plug (20) must be removed first. Use needle nose pliers to pull the terminals out of the plug. Then pull the cable through the exit hole at the bottom of the timing cover. 5. Note location of sensor plate (11). There is a V notch in the sensor plate used for alignment. When you install the HI-4, you should align the V notch in the same location. This should set the timing close enough to start the engine. Remove and save the two standoffs and washers (10). Remove the sensor plate (11). HI-4 INSTALLATION Refer to Figure 4. The HI-4 requires use of the OE timing rotor P/N 32402-83 (used only on 1985 and newer models). If you have an older model or are not sure, check the rotor (9) for the correct part number. For models prior to 1980, use the supplied 10-32 x ¾”bolt and washer to mount the rotor. 1. Install the HI-4 system in place of the OE breaker or sensor plate. Rotate the HI-4 about 90 degrees to give better access to the cable exit hole. Install the HI-4 first, then push the cable through the hole. On some early models it may be necessary to enlarge the wire harness exit hole in the gear cover. Align the V notch on the HI-4 same as the OE plate you removed. Use the OE standoffs to secure the HI-4. You must use lockwashers under the standoffs for proper clearance between the HI-4 and cover plate. Do not fully tighten the standoffs until the timing has been set. 2. Route the HI-4 wire harness along the frame rails up to the coil. Make sure that harness will not be chafed or burned by exhaust heat. Secure harness with tie wraps. Do not install timing cover. HI-4 HOOKUP Crimp terminals and hardware are supplied for your convenience. Use the ring terminals for coil hookup. Use male-female quick disconnects for connections to the tach and vacuum switch (VOES). Tape up any unused wires. 1. Circuit Breaker Cover Screws (2) 2. Circuit Breaker Cover 3. Circuit Breaker Cover Gasket 4. Breaker Plate Screws (2) 5. Breaker Plate Screw Lockwashers & Washers (2 each) 6. Retainer (1971 to early 1972) 7. Circuit Breaker Cam Bolt 8. Breaker Plate Assembly 9. Breaker Cam 10. Advance Assembly 11. Gear Case Cover 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 NOTE: Damage will result if the brown tach wire comes in contact with +12V. Figure 1. Harley-Davidson®OE Points System
9000-4002A REV A 3 2/05 1. Identify switched +12 volt wire and tach wire (if equipped) going to the coil. Refer to your service manual, or reconnect the battery and use a test light or voltmeter. The switched +12 volt wire will be hot when the ignition key is turned on. 2. Refer to Figure 5. Connect the HI-4 red wire and switched +12 volt wire to Coil positive. 3. The HI-4 white wire is not used and should be taped. 4. Connect the HI-4 black wire to the Coil negative terminal. 5. Connect the HI-4 green wire to the vacuum switch (Figure 3, item 18), if used. 6. Connect the HI-4 brown wire to the tach wire, if equipped with tach. Tape up if unused. 7. The HI-4 is grounded via the timing housing; a separate ground connection is not required. 8. Reconnect battery ground cable. Verify proper ground connections to the frame and engine. VOES HOOKUP The OE vacuum switch (VOES) is normally an open circuit. Above 3-5 inch-Hg vacuum, the VOES closes and grounds the vacuum input on the OE ignition module. This increases the total advance generated by the OE ignition module. Vacuum advance improves part throttle 17 16 1. Cover Screws (2) 2. Ignition Timer Cover 3. Ignition Module 4. Timer Plate Screws (2) 5. Washers (2) 6. Screws & Washers (2 each) 7. Shield 8. Sensor 9. Trigger Rotor Bolt 10. Timer Plate 11. Trigger Rotor 12. Advance Assembly 13. Gear Case Cover 14. Ignition Coil 15. Spark Plug Wires (2) 16. Ignition Coil Terminal (FX) 17. Ignition Coil Terminal (FL) 15 14 13 12 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 NOTE: Most motorcycle coils do not have terminals marked. Use either terminal for Coil+ (positive) and the other one for Coil- (negative). Warning: The HI-4 (8-1100) Dual Fire ignition will not work with 2 plugs per head, dual coil application. Damage will result if attempted. Use the HI-4 (8-2100) single fire ignition for 2 plugs per head applications

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Ignition Upgrade Module for 2004-up Carbureted Harley Davidson Motorcycles Owner's Manual

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 25-11-2010

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1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Grasp the sides of the electrical caddy (located next the ignition coil) and pull outward to remove. 3. Remove the relay and fuse panels from the electrical caddy. a. Insert a small screwdriver into the slot under each fuse and relay panel. b. Using a screwdriver, disengage the panel from the electrical caddy. 4. Disconnect the main fuse connector from the electrical caddy a. Remove the main fuse from the connector b. Insert small screwdrivers into the slots on each side of the main fuse c. Depress the tabs of the main fuse connector to disengage it from the electrical caddy
Thunder Heart Performance Corp. 615-672-8811 www.thunder-heart.com 2 EI5075.doc 5. Depress the tab located on the electrical caddy securing the TSM/TSSM. Pull it from the electrical caddy. Disconnect the TSM/TSSM connector. 6. Slide the data link connector towards the front of the motorcycle to disengage it from the electrical caddy. 7. Disconnect the ignition control module connector. 8. Disconnect the ignition coil connector and spark plug cables from the coil. 9. Remove the electrical caddy fasteners (3 total). 10. Remove the wiring from the electrical caddy. 11. Remove the fasteners securing the factory ignition control module from the electrical caddy. 12. Installation of the Digital Ignition Module is the reverse of removal. 2.2 Touring Models 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Remove the right saddlebag. 3. Gently pull the side cover from the frame downtubes (no tools required). 4. Depress the external latches and use a rocking motion to remove the electrical connector from the ignition control module. 5. Remove the two socket screws to detach the ignition control module from the electrical bracket. 6. To install the Digital Ignition Module, install and tighten the socket screws to 50-60 in-lbs . The remainder of installation is the reverse of removal. 2.3 Softail Models 1. Remove the seat. 2. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 3. Remove the two screws to free the ignition control module from the mounting bracket. 4. Depress the external latches and use a rocking motion to remove the electrical connector from the ignition control module. 5. To install the Digital Ignition Module, install and tighten the socket screws to 15-21 in-lbs . The remainder of installation is the reverse of removal

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2008 KTM 250 SX-F 250 XC-F, XCF-W 250 EXC-F, EXC-F SIX DAYS INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (KTM) by admin on 22-10-2010

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Hand brake lever The hand brake lever [1] is mounted on the handlebars on the right and actuates the front wheel brake. The adjusting screw [A] can be used to change the basic position of the hand brake lever (see “Maintenance”). 1 A Short circuit button The short circuit button [2] turns off the engine. When pressing this button, the ignition circuit is short-circuited. 2 Headlamp switch (XCF-W) In this model the headlamp is switched on with the pull switch [5] . 5 Flasher switch The flasher switch is a separate unit and is mounted on the left portion of the handlebar. The wire harness is designed in a way that whenever you want to use your bike off-road, you can dismount the entire turn indicator system without affecting the function of the remaining electrical system. Flasher left Flasher right
OPERATION INSTRUMENTS » ENGLISH 7 1 2 3 4 5 Starter button Pushing the red starter button [1] will actuate the E-starter. Emergency OFF switch (EXC-F Australia) The red emergency-OFF switch [2] is arranged adjacent to the throttle grip. In this position, the E-starter is operational and the engine can be started. In this position, the E-starter and ignition circuits are interrupted.The E-starter cannot be actuated, and the engine will not start, not even if you attempt to start it with the kickstarter. Pushing the black starter button [3] will actuate the E-starter. Indicator lamps The green control lamp [4] flashes in the same rhythm as the flashing indicator when the indicator is working. The blue control lamp [5] lights up when the high beam is on. TEST All of the display segments briefly light up for the display function test. Electronic speedometer The display in the electronic speedometer is activated as soon as you press a button on the speedometer or an impulse is received from the wheel sensor. The display lights up when the engine is running. The display is cleared if no button is pressed for 1 minute or no impulse is received from the wheel sensor. The button is used to change between display modes. The + and – buttons are used to control various functions

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NORTON TWIN CYLINDER MOTORCYCLES ELECTRONIC IGNITION SYSTEM INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Norton) by admin on 31-10-2010

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1. All connections must be of the highest quality, use crimped or soldered connections; twisted wires will not give a satisfactory operation. 2. Remove the petrol tank and/or seat to gain access to the ignition coils, condensors and wiring. 3. For safety, disconnect the battery (preferably both terminals). 4. Remove timing cover. (The Atlas engine has the points housing behind the cylinder head). 5. Disconnect the two wires (usually black-white & black-yellow) and remove the contact-breaker plate. At the other end, these two wires must be disconnected from the ignition coils & condensors. The condensors are no longer required and can be removed. They should not be connected to the electronic ignition system. 6. Remove auto-advance unit. 7. Disconnect the remaining wires from the ignition coils. These come from the ignition switch supply. On the Norton Commando, remove the white-blue wire from the ballast resistor between the two ignition coils; the ballast resistor is no longer required. The colour of this ignition supply wire may be different on some machines; if so check using a test lamp or meter to find the live wire when the ignition is switched on. 8. Find a suitable place for the ignition module, preferably near to the ignition coils. Secure the ignition module to the frame using one or more large cable ties. An adhesive mounting base is provided; this can be affixed to the underside of the module and the cable tie passed through and around the module and frame. Do not completely wrap the module in foam rubber. 9. Using the black coil link wire, connect the negative (—) terminal of one ignition coil to the positive (+) terminal of the other ignition coil. See figs. 1/2 on page 7. 10. Take the black wire from the ignition module, cut to length and fit an insulator and female spade connector to the end. Connect to the negative (—) terminal on ignition coil #2. See figs. 1/2 on page 7. 11. Take the red wire from the ignition module, cut to length and fit an insulator and female spade connector to the end. Connect to the positive (+) terminal on ignition

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Harley-Davidson Electronic Ignition Module Installation instructions

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 23-04-2012

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Step 1: Switch main dashboard switch to “off” position (Ignition& light switch) Step 2: Disconnect negative (ground) cable from the Battery Step 3: Remove the Condenser and Breaker points from the circuit breaker timing base. Step 4: Disconnect advance/ retard cable from timing base Step 5: Remove timing base from timer shaft and housing (see your manual for instructions) Step 6: Remove circuit breaker wire stud or circuit breaker to coil wire assembly from timing base Step 7: Remove circuit breaker wire from Ignition coil, and mark terminal on coil with piece of tape. Step 8: Install the Electronic Ignition Module on the timing base. Mount this short black wire to one on the timer base screws by keeping some slack in this wire so the timing base can turn free. Solder the flag terminal to this short black wire and mount it under the timer to motor bolt. This way of mounting provides a much better grounding. Do NOT use the screws (number 1 or 2 screws from picture below) from the timing base!!!! Step 9: Now three wires pass this hole via the rubber grommet. Figure 1 Figure 2 Step 10: Reinstall the timer base on the timer shaft housing, and keep some slack in the wires before protruding the hole in the timer shaft housing, and secure with ground spring and cover retainer. Reconnect the advance/retard cable to the timer base. Step 11: Route the two long wires to the ignition coil. Check in the HD service manual for a proper route to the ignition coil. (Keep away from hot surfaces like exhaust systems). Cut the wires to the exact length necessary for mounting. Step 12: Determine the exact length of the wire loom. Keep in mind that one end of the loom enters the timer shaft housing by 1cm. Cut the loom to the proper length. Step 13: Insert both wires in the loom. Strip both wire ends and solder the two flag terminals on the wires. Step 14: Connect the red wire to the ignition coil, on the terminal where the 6 or 12 volt is supplied to. This terminal has at minimum one wire connected which runs to the main switch. Step 15: Connect the black wire to the ignition coil on the terminal which is empty, and has piece of tape on it. (Old place where the circuit breaker wire was connected to) Step 16: Install the trigger rotor on the timer shaft cam, and tighten the hex screw by using the hex key tool. Do not over tighten the screw! Step 17: Check for clearance between trigger rotor and Electronic Ignition Module. Appropriate clearance is between 0,5mm and 1,5mm . Minor adjustments can be made by unlocking the two screws and slightly shift/move the Electronic Ignition Module. Check if the rotor moves free. Timing instructions: Remove the spark plugs from the engine, but keep them connected to the spark coil cables and engine ground. This enables normal operation of the spark, and prevents unwanted engine firing on compression stroke. See service manual or handbook for timing instructions of your model Step 18: Reconnect the negative (ground) cable to the battery. Step 19: Switch main power to “on” position. The red light in the Electronic Ignition Module might already light up. If not, turn the kick starter slowly. The red light is on while charging (closed points)the Ignition coil, facing solid metal of the trigger rotor. The light goes off (open points) when the end of the solid surface of the trigger rotor passes the centre of the Electronic Ignition Module. At that point a spark is generated by the coil

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Moto Guzzi Sport 1100i Owners Manual

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Filed Under (Moto Guzzi) by admin on 29-11-2010

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General features Identification data Instruments and controls Riding your motorcycle Break-in Maintenance and adjustments Wheel removal Service schedule Cleaning – Storing Cleaning the windscreen Lubrication Valve gear WEBER injectionignition system (I.A.W.) Electrical equipment Wiring diagram Illustrations Lubrication Pressure fed by gear pump. Oil filters: wire mesh inside sump and replaceable cartridge filter outside sump. Normal lubrication pressure 3.8Ö 4.2 [5] kg/cm2, pressure valve, thermostat and cooler. Low oil pressure sensor (electrical) on crankcase. Generator/Alternator On front of crankshaft (1 4V – 25A). Ignition “WEBER MARELLI” electronic digital induced discharge, with high efficiency coil. Spark plugs: Spark plug gap: 0,7 mm. SPORT 1100 DAYTONA R NGK BPR 6 ESI NGK DR9 E IMS Starting Electric starter (12V-1,2 kW) with solenoid engagement. Ring gear bolted on flywheel. Starter button (START) on right of handlebars. Driveline data Clutch Twin driven plates, dry type, on flywheel. Hand controlled by lever on left of handlebars. Primary drive By gears. Ratio: 1 to 1.3529 (tooth ratio 17/23). Gearbox 5-speed, with constantly meshed gears with front dog clutch. Incorporated cush drive. Pedal operated on the left side of the motorcycle. Gear ratios: Low gear = 1 to 1,812 (tooth ratio 16/29) 2nd gear = 1 to 1,250 (tooth ratio 20/25) 3rd gear = 1 to 1 (tooth ratio 23/23) 4th gear = 1 to 0,833 (tooth ratio 24/20) 5th gear = 1 to 0,730 (tooth ratio 26/19) Ratio: 1:4,125 (tooth ratio 8/33) Overall gear ratios (Engine-wheel): Low gear = 1 to 10,1150 2nd gear = 1 to 6,9761 3rd gear = I to 5,5809 4th gear = 1 to 4,6507 5th gear = 1 to 4,0783 Frame Rectangular section single-beam in NiCrMo steel. Semisupporting engine base. Suspensions Front: White Power upside-down hydraulic telescopic fork with individually adjustable rebound and compression; Rear: steel swing arm with oval cross section. Single shock absorber White Power with separate adjustment of spring preload and of hydraulic rebound and compression damping. Wheels Light alloy castings with 3 hollow spokes (rear wheel with cush drive unit). Rim sizes: – front: 3,50x 17 MT H2 – rear: 4,50×17 MT H2 Tires -front: 120/70 ZR 17 – rear: 160/70 ZR 17 [160/60 ZR 17] Type: Tubeless Front: two Brembo drilled semi-floating disc brakes in stainless steel for SPORT I 100; [two Brembo drilled floating discs, Racing type for DAYTONA RS] with fixed 4 differential piston calipers. Adjustable manual control lever on the right side of the handle-bar; – disc 320 mm;

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2007 Ural Models Gear Up Patrol Tourist Installation Manual

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Filed Under (Ural) by admin on 02-11-2010

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Font Brake Control Lever Clutch control lever: When the clutch lever is squeezed, the engine is disengaged from the gearbox. When the lever is released, the engine and gearbox are engaged. WARNING: MAKE SURE FINGERS ARE NOT POSITIONED BETWEEN HAND CONTROL LEVERS AND HANDLEBAR GRIPS OR OPERATION OF VEHICLE COULD BE IMPAIRED . WARNING: B EFORE STARTING ENGINE , ALWAYS SHIFT TRANSMISSION TO NEUTRAL TO PREVENT ACCIDENTAL MOVEMENT WHICH COULD CAUSE POSSIBLE DAMAGE TO MOTORCYCLE AND PERSONAL INJURY . Caution: Always engage the clutch release lever when shifting. Serious internal damage may result to the transmission if the clutch release lever is not engaged. Front brake control lever: When the lever is squeezed, the front wheel brake is actuated. The front brake should be used together with rear brake. When the brake lever is squeezed, the stop signal lights are switched on. 19 Kickstart lever : Designed to start the engine. Upon kicking the lever the crankshaft is actuated through the gearbox. The lever is returned to its initial position by the spring inside the gearbox. Gear shift lever: This is a heal shift type of lever. To shift up from a low gear to a high gear the rear arm(heal shift) is pressed. To shift down from a high gear to a low gear the from arm is depressed. Since the heel-toe shift lever is short-coupled, it is much easier to shift up using the heal shift, and to shift down using the toe shift with the ball of your foot. The neutral gear is between the 1st and 2nd gears. It is important to shift smoothly with a constant force, and not to kick the gear shift pedal. Serious damage may result to the shifting mechanism if the gear shift pedal is kicked, rather than pressed. NOTE: The neutral lamp will illuminate when the transmission is in neutral. (see “Starting the Engine”). Gear Shift Foot Pedal Kick Lever 20 Parking Brake Sidecar Drive Lever Rear Brake Pedal Parking Brake: Used to hold the bike when parked. To engage, press the rear brake pedal, push down and twist the parking brake lever counter clockwise. Sidecar drive engagement lever: Used to engage the drive axle to the sidecar wheel on the Patrol and Gear Up model motorcycles. WARNING: Never engage sidecar drive on concrete or hard surface. Severe damage to drivetrain will result if the sidecar drive is engaged on pavement. Rear brake lever: Actuates the rear brakes on both the motorcycle and sidecar. WARNING: DO NOT APPLY EITHER BRAKE STRONGLY ENOUGH TO LOCK THE WHEELS BECAUSE THIS MAY CAUSE POSSIBLE LOSS OF CONTROL OF THE MOTORCYCLE . ALWAYS USE BOTH BRAKES . NEVER STOP WITH FRONT OR REAR BRAKE ONLY . WARNING: AN IMPROPERLY ADJUSTED REAR BRAKE PEDAL COULD INTERFERE WITH PROPER REAR BRAKE OPERATION RESULTING IN POOR BRAKE ACTION

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