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How to Replacing Rear Main Seal 1

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 24-11-2010

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The next day I woke up early and drank lots of coffee before going out to the garage. I knew I had two distinct problems confronting me. First, I would have to purchase an impact tool in order to loosen the six bolts holding the clutch together. Also, I would have to purchase at least three 8mm by 50mm bolts and nuts in order to prevent the clutch from exploding when the six bolts were unscrewed. For the third time in two days, I went to Sears and asked the salesman, (who I now I knew as Art,) where I could find an impact tool. He did not know what it was I was looking for, but he asked another employee and soon I had the tool as well as a 6mm Allen socket. Unfortunately, the Allen socket only came in 3/8″ drive, and the impact tool only came in 1/2″ drive. Thinking quickly, I purchased a 1/2″ to 3/8″ adapter, as well as a 3lb. dead- blow hammer. On the way home, I stopped at a Chief Auto Parts to buy the bolts I would need. The closest size they had were 8mm by 40mm, which was nearly 10mm too short. I was unsure whether the clutch cover bolts were coarse thread or fine thread, so I bought three of each, along with corresponding nuts. Finally, around 11 o’clock in the morning, I was back at the garage ready to work. I prepared the impact tool and placed the adapter and the Allen socket on it. I began to hammer on the end of the tool, trying to loosen each of the six bolts. None of them seemed to move, even though it seemed the impact tool was turning. Finally, I put the Allen socket on the breaker bar and found that all of the bolts had actually come loose. The tension from the clutch spring made it nearly impossible to see, however. I removed three of the bolts in a triangular pattern. Into these empty holes I threaded the fine- thread 40mm bolts with nuts attached and tightened them evenly. I was now able to remove the remaining Allen bolts. By slowly turning and loosening the nuts evenly on the 40mm bolts, I relieved the pressure from the clutch spring until the cover plate was free. I removed the cover plate, the clutch, the pressure plate, and finally the clutch spring. I had already marked each of the elements with Whiteout to insure that they would fit together the same way on installation. Apparently, this is essential as the flywheel could be rendered out-of-balance if the clutch components are not installed correctly. The flywheel itself was now exposed. I could see the five bolts that attached it to the crankshaft. I now used a tool I had fabricated. Although the manual describes two possible tools that can be fabricated, I found a piece of metal that resembled the tool and decided to use it. Unfortunately it was not strong enough and broke. I turned and looked at my workbench, and noticed a bracket which I had previously fabricated for mounting a mirror on my Vespa. The piece of steel was extremely strong and was already pre-drilled with correct-sized holes. It fit perfectly, so I placed it over the exposed bolt which protruded from the case, and placed the other end on one of the 40mm bolts, which I then bolted into the flywheel itself. I used the breaker bar again and removed the five bolts. The flywheel came loose after inserting two more 40mm bolts and tugging on them evenly

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1999-2001 DUCATI Monster INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Ducati) by admin on 25-10-2010

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It is essential to use Blue Loc-tite on all nuts and bolts. Remove any other steering stabilizers. 2) Cover the tank with an old sweatshirt or protective device so you don’t scratch it. 3) General concept for this mount: The new key cover is the anchor point for the stabilizer, so it must be fitted correctly as per the instructions below. The base of the new key cover must sit flush all the way around to provide the support needed. The bolt lengths are critical, so be sure you read the instructions carefully so you know which bolts go in which spots! 4) Remove the (4) 8x85mm Allen bolts that hold your handlebars tight. There are plastic plugs in the tops of these bolts that must be removed before you can access the Allen head. Replace the stock top barclamp with the one provided in the kit. 5) Tighten the 4 bolts evenly so the gaps between upper and lower perches, front to back, are even. 6) Remove the (2) 6x12mm Allen bolts and the plastic key cover that covers your key switch. 7) Fit the new billet aluminum key cover over the key switch and be sure the new cover is sitting down flush all the way around on the frame. It needs to be touching the frame to function properly. We’ve machined this part to fit precisely on the bike but each bike can vary slightly due to machining variations from the Ducati Factory. The new key cover should center itself by locating on the 2 spacer/nuts underneath. You might need to loosen the 2 bolts on the underside of the frame to allow those spacer/nuts to find their centering point on our key cover. 8) Note: Your stock key switch itself has a casting knub near its base that could restrict our new cover from sitting all the way down flush. We’ve machined a clearance notch inside our part for this knub to fit into, but it is possible it could vary from bike to bike, which might require a bit more clearance filing. Be sure the key cover is sitting down flush against the frame. 9) We’ve machined the key cover to fit over a 20mm spacer nut / .805″. If for some reason the stock “spacer/nuts” are too tall, you may have to file them slightly to allow the Billet key cover to sit down flush and touch the frame. 10) Once the key switch cover is flush against the frame, all the way around it’s base, retighten the bolts that hold the spacer/nuts secure from the under side of the frame using Loc-tite. Reinstall the (2) 6x12mm stock key cover bolts to a maximum of 6-ft/lbs . The stock key cover bolts are designed to engage 6mm of thread in the spacer nut. Do not be tempted to use any longer bolts than 6x12mm or they can prematurely bottom out which will keep the key cover from tightening. Shorter than 6×12 or if the cover is not flush, makes it possible to damage the threads. Double check these key-cover bolts after your first ride, as they may loosen after initial movement from the damper

S&S Connecting Rods Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (S&S) by admin on 29-10-2010

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1. Female rod crankpin end to mainshaft nuts – .030″ minimum clearance recommended. A. Install sprocket shaft and crankpin in driveside flywheel. Snug nuts only. Do not torque to final specs. B. Slide connecting rods and bearings over crankpin. C. Rotate rods on crankpin, and observe clearance between rod and sprocket shaft nut. D. If additional clearance is needed, remove material from sprocket shaft nut. Do not remove material from connecting rod. E. Repeat procedure for camside flywheel and pinion shaft. 2. Female rod crankpin end to inner flywheel rim – .060″ clearance recommended. A. While checking female rod to mainshaft clearance, observe clearance between crankpin end of female rod and rim of both flywheels. B. If additional clearance is required, remove material from flywheel at point of contact. Do not remove material from connecting rod. 3. Wristpin end of both female and male rods to flywheel edge -.060″ minimum clearance recommended. A. While checking female rod to mainshaft clearance, observe clearance between wristpin end of both rods and rim of both flywheels. B. If additional clearance is required, remove material from flywheel at point of contact. Do not remove material from connecting rod. 4. Wristpin end to crankcase and cylinder – .060″ is recommended in these areas. A. With the camside flywheel and rods mocked up, install the assembly in the right crankcase half with pistons (less rings) and cylinders in place. B. Rotate flywheel through one full revolution and check for rod to crankcase and cylinder spigot contact on both the front and rear of each cylinder. C. File or grind crankcase or cylinder spigot as needed to achieve .060″ clearance. Do not remove morematerial than needed. D. Repeat for left crankcase half. NOTE: Whenever clearancing is performed in any of these areas, do not remove any material from the connecting rods as clearancing on the rods may unnecessarily weaken them. Make adjustments to the point of contact on the mainshaft nut, flywheel rim, crankcase, cylinder spigot, etc. Connecting rods weakened by clearancing may fail causing serious engine damage.

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Yamaha V-Star 1100 Custom and Classic cruisers Floorboard/ Footpeg Extension Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 09-11-2010

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Start on the right (brake) side. 1) Loosen the nut at the end of the brake rod. This will allow you to unscrew the brake rod from the brake lever clevis later. 2) Pull out the cotter pin and remove the pivot pin. Unscrew the clevis 3) Then using a 14mm socket or box-end wrench, remove the two bolts that hold the brake floorboard/footpeg assembly (whichever your bike has) to the frame. These bolts are torqued to 46 ft lbs, so this may be a bit difficult. 1. Loosen this nut 2. Remove the cotter pin (other side of this pivot pin) remove the pivot pin a unscrew the nut to remove the clevis nd 3. Remove these bolts When you remove the floorboard/footpeg bracket, be careful not to pull the brake switch wires loose. You may wish to cut the cable tie for more room, and then rest the bracket, with the footpeg or floorboard attached, on a short box, or block of wood, to keep it handy. Install the new brake rod, to the end of the existing brake rod. Re-install the pivot pin, and the pivot pin cotter pin. Installing the extension bar: Note that the extension bar is bolted so that it rises up in front. Use the new bolts to mount the floorboard/ footpeg bracket to the threaded holes in front. Install the Extension in the proper orientation (angled holes bolt up to the frame, with front of the bar higher than the rear – see photo) using the stock bolts for the extensions to the frame and the new bolts and washers supplied with the kit, on the forward threaded section to relocate the floorboard or footpeg bracket. The use of LocTite ® Blue here is recommended. At this point the right side Floorboard or Footpeg should be secured tightly and the brake lever hanging loose. Now install the Brake rod extension, threading the male end to the original brake rod. Don’t tighten this end yet Place the clevis over the forward most end of the brake rod extension, and threat the clevis nut onto the end of the rod. Bring the brake rod upright, to meet with the clevis at the end of the brake rod extension and replace the pivot pin. Before reinstalling the cotter pin, check the angle of the brake lever, to insure that you have the brake pedal where you want. If necessary, adjust the extension rod in or out, until you are satisfied, and then reinstall the cotter pin into the pivot pin. Check the Brake switch wire and install a new cable tie if required. Note: Due to utilizing a thicker material, 1/2″ versus 3/8″ from our competitor, the Brake rod is now positioned at a greater angle. Even with the angle, braking performance is not affected, but if you wish to bring the master cylinder in line with the brake rod, do this. Loosen the rear, and remove the front Allen bolt. Then place two washers behind the front bolt, under the bracket, and then re-install the bolts To change the angle of the brake rod, 1) loosen and remove the two master cylinder bracket Allen bolts 2) insert two washers behind the front bolt (front of the bike), behind the master cylinder bracket 3) tighten both bolts. Do not install any washers on the rear mounting hole. This will make the angle of the Brake Rod less aggressive. Step Two – Left Side For the left (Shifter) side, 1) use an open-end 10 mm wrench, to unscrew the two nuts that hold the shift rod in place. PLEASE note that one end of the shift rod has a left hand threaded nut. SAVE the nuts, as you will need them on the new longer Polished Stainless Steel Shift Rod. 2) Remove the stock shift rod. 3) Then using a 14mm socket or box-end wrench, remove the two bolts that hold the shifter floorboard/footpeg assembly (whichever your bike has) to the frame.

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GL1800 Goldwing Trike Conversion Kit Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 10-11-2010

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Disassembly of motorcycle: 1. Place the motorcycle on the center stand or lift. 2. Set the shock preload to zero. 3. Remove the four m8 x 1.25 SHCS from the passenger handles and remove seat. 4. Remove the rear side covers. 5. Disconnect negative battery terminal. 6. Remove the four m8 x 1.25 SHCS and the passenger floorboards. 7. Remove the six m5 x 0.80 BHCS and the foot rest under cover. 8. Remove the six m5 x .80 BHCS and the swing arm pivot bolt covers. 9. Remove the four m8 x 1.25 flange bolts on the rear crash guards. Remove and discard the rear crash guards and bolts. 10. Remove the four #2 Phillips head screws from the inside of the trunk to remove the trim pieces on the sides. 11. Remove the two #2 Phillips head screws in the rear trim molding and remove molding. 12. Remove the seven #2 Phillips head screws from the lower trunk cover. Remove the lower trunk cover. 13. Remove the five #2 Phillips head screws from the trunk opener cover. Remove the trunk opener cover. 14. Disconnect the left and right saddlebag release cables. 15. Remove the five m6 x 1.0 BHCS in the rear fender panel. Remove and discard the rear fender panel and cap screws. 16. Disconnect the trunk wiring. 17. Remove the four m6 x 1.0 flange screws. Remove the trunk from the saddlebag / trunk stay. 7 18. 2005 and older 2005 and older 2005 and older 2005 and older ABS equipped motorcycles: ABS equipped motorcycles: ABS equipped motorcycles: ABS equipped motorcycles: Remove rubber bungee from ABS Control Unit, and save for reinstallation. 19. Remove the two side cover grommets from each saddlebag. ( 4 grommets total ) 20. Remove the left and right hand saddlebag latches, strikers, and release cables for core parts return. Refer to Honda service manual. 21. Remove the left and right saddlebag taillights and sub- harnesses for core parts return . Refer to Honda service manual. 22. Remove the four m6 x 1.0 flange bolts from each saddlebag. Remove and discard the saddlebags. 23. Remove the six m6 x 1.0 flange bolts from the exhaust tips. Slide the tip off the muffler body. Save tips and bolts for reinstallation. 24. Loosen the four m8 x 1.25 SHCS on the muffler clamps. Remove the two m8 x 1.25 flange bolts. Remove and discard the mufflers and muffler gaskets. 25. Remove the four m6 x 1.0 BHCS, two rubber washers, and front fender A. 26. Remove the four m5 x .80 BHCS and chrome front fender covers. 27. 2006 & UP. 2006 & UP. 2006 & UP. 2006 & UP. Remove the Remove the Remove the Remove the two m6 x two m6 x two m6 x two m6 x 1.0 flange bolts on 1.0 flange bolts on 1.0 flange bolts on 1.0 flange bolts on rear of saddlebag/trunk stay. rear of saddlebag/trunk stay. rear of saddlebag/trunk stay. rear of saddlebag/trunk stay. 28. Unplug connector and remove amp and save for Unplug connector and remove amp and save for Unplug connector and remove amp and save for Unplug connector and remove amp and save for reinstallation. reinstallation. reinstallation. reinstallation. 29. Cut lower saddlebag supports off the saddlebag/trunk stay, where the round tubing meets the square, and cut the gusset flush, removing any burrs. See Figure 1. 30. Remove trunk stay for later use. 31. Remove the two m5 x .80 nuts on the license plate light. Remove and discard the license plate ligh

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Sherco Engine Engine Removal and Case Splitting Manual

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Filed Under (Sherco) by admin on 20-04-2011

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Engine Removal and Case Splitting Preparation 1. Wash the bike and engine thoroughly. 2. Drain transmission oil by removing drain bolt and copper washer with 5mm Allen. 3. Drain coolant by removing 3 bolts of water pump cover and lifting off engine side case.4. Remove: a. rear fender- two bolts plus one long with washer using 4mm Allen b. fuel tank hose from petcock c. fuel tank- one short bolt and washer using 4mm Allen d. chain master link and chain from front sprocket e. kick starter- one large button head bolt and washer f. rear brake- one bolt/washer using 13mm wrench g. rear brake master cylinder- 2 button head bolts h. gear shifter- one bolt i. flywheel cover – 3 bolts j. clutch slave cylinder- two button head bolts using 4mm Allen k. clutch actuating rod by pulling it out of the case l. airbox three 4mm Allen bolts and loosening Phillips head carb hose clamp m. carburetor cap/slide assembly n. carburetor by loosening Phillips head manifold hose clamp o. spark plug cap p. spark plug q. header pipe 2 bolts into cylinder head r. silencer- 3 bolts (one with washer and nut using 10mm wrench) s. cylinder head coolant hose clamp and hose t. rear shock upper bolt u. radiator plastic cover bolt, then lever up the radiator with screwdriver until the radiator “legs” pop out of frame retaining holes 5. Remove flywheel using flywheel puller tool, taking care not to lose the small Woodruff
key by placing it inside of the magnetic flywheel for safe storage. 6. Remove ignition (3 bolts) and slide rubber grommet and ignition wiring assembly out of the case and out of the way, taking special note of the ignition timing marks. 7. Remove front sprocket and 2 retaining circlips. 8. Remove clutch side case and its 10 bolts using 5mm Allen, being careful not to lose to lose the 2 aluminum alignment pins (dowel pins). Insert the dowel pins into their holes within the Right Crankcase

1500cc Honda Goldwing Installation Manual

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 02-12-2010

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Review entire installation manual Loosen saddle bags and remove rear fender cover Modify rear fender cover Install receiver hitch and double check all bolts Remount rear fender and tighten saddle bags Assemble InstaTrike hitch cart Attach InstaTrike to motorcycle via receiver hitch Attach leanstop brace bolts to receiver hitch Align InstaTrike wheels Double check all bolts for tightness Test ride InstaTrike slowly in an open area to familiarize yourself with handling characteristics Receiver Hitch Installation NOTICE: Install all bolts and brackets loosely until all bolts and brackets are in place 1) Place motorcycle on center stand. NOTE: Some Goldwings are not level when on center stand. Shim underneath center stand to level motorcycle. 2) Remove side covers 3) Loosen saddle bags and remove rear fender cover. 4) Modify rear fender cover. See diagram 5) Remove muffler bolts. Replace with enclosed muffler bolts. (hex bolt head toward inside with washers on bolt head side) This allows clearance between the hitch and muffler bolt. 6) Replace existing motorcycle rear crashbar bolts with those provided (2 each side). Ensure new crashbar bolts are securely tightened before attaching brackets A and B. 7) With brackets A (left) and B (right) attached to bottom of forward arms of hitch, slide hitch under bike and loosely attach A and B to bottom of rear crash bar with provided U-bolts. Use caution not to crush crash bar with U-bolt

1100cc Honda Goldwing Installation Manual

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 29-04-2011

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Receiver Hitch Installation Install all bolts loosely until all brackets are in place 1) Place motorcycle on center stand and be certain it is level. 2) Remove saddlebags if necessary for easier installation. 3) Mount bracket A to the lower front crash bar bolt Left side (new bolts provided) and top of left hitch arm. 4) Mount bracket B to the lower front crash bar bolt Right side (new bolts provided) and top of right hitch arm. 5) Bracket C mounts to rear of hitch and sub frame bolt located behind tail light (new bolt provided) This bracket mounts inside the rear fender. 6) Attach brackets D and E to rear of hitch. 7) Bracket F attaches to bottom of bracket D and trunk sub frame with U-bolts. Insert bottom U-bolts at step 9 8) Bracket G attaches to bottom of bracket E and trunk sub frame with U-bolts. Insert bottom U-bolts at step 9 9) Brackets D and E (with brackets F and G) attach to bottom rear saddlebag sub frame with U-bolts. 10) Tighten all bolts. INSTALLATION OF THE TOW-PAC HITCH CART. 1. Place your motorcycle on a smooth flat surface, like a garage floor, and rest it on its center stand. 2. Assemble the axles, tires and wheels, and fenders onto the tow- pac hitch cart. 3. Carefully align the tow-pac hitch cart’s hitch mount with the receiver hitch on the motorcycle. Now push the hitch mount into the receiver hitch. (this might be a little difficult until you get use to doing it. Removing the paint from the hitch mount and applying a little grease will help.) 4. Place the hitch pin through the receiver hitch and hitch mount ( alignment plate ). Install and tighten the tension bolt. 5. Push the motorcycle off of the center stand and risers if used. 6. Bolt leanstop braces to hitch. (Bolt inserts from the bottom) Be certain to replace washers/spacers in the same configuration as when you removed them. see diagram next page 7. Check all bolts for tightness. 8. You are now ready for the test ride. A. Keep your feet up! B. Ride slowly in first gear until you are comfortable with the Tow-Pac system.

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YAMAHA ROAD STAR WARRIOR PRO PIPE HS EXHAUST SYSTEM INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 24-12-2010

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STOCK EXHAUST SYSTEM REMOVAL 1. Remove right side rider and passenger footpeg assemblies. (Save footpegs and bolts for future reassembly. Do not disconnect brake master cylinder plunger rod.) 2. Remove front cylinder exhaust port flange nuts. (Save) 3. Remove rear cylinder exhaust flange bolts. (Save) 4. Remove two bolts connecting muffler mounting bracket to lower frame rail. 5. Remove bolt connecting muffler to upper muffler bracket. Carefully remove complete system from motorcycle. (Assistance may be required.) Note : Apply tape on crank case area just in front of rear head pipe bend to protect paint during dissassembly and assembly. 6. Remove M6 x 35 button head screws connecting rear brake master cylinder reservoir to stock muffler bracket. (Do not disconnect hose. Save M6 x 35 button head screws.) 7. Remove stock upper muffler bracket. (Save M10 x 25 button head bolts for future reassembly.) VANCE & HINES EXHAUST SYSTEM INSTALLATION 1. Check condition of stock exhaust gaskets. Replace if damaged or worn. 2. Install rear brake master cylinder reservoir bracket (stamped 333) using saved M10 x 25 button head allen bolts and supplied M10 lock nuts. (Refer to Figure 1) 3. Attach rear brake master cylinder reservoir to bracket (stamped 333) using saved M6 x 35 button head screws and supplied M6 lock nuts. (Refer to Figure 2) 4. Install and tighten megaphone mounting bracket (stamped 334) to frame using supplied M10 x 25 button head bolts. (Refer to Figure 3 & 4) If required, M10 flat washers are provided to space bracket away from frame casting ridge. 5. Unscrew all hose clamps (supplied) until they are completely loose. Mark top edge of front, rear, and collector heat shields with the location of mounting clips that are welded to

YAMAHA ROAD STAR WARRIOR BIG SHOTS EXHAUST SYSTEM INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 22-12-2010

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STOCK EXHAUST SYSTEM REMOVAL 1. Remove right side rider and passenger footpeg assemblies. (Save footpegs and bolts for future reassembly. Do not disconnect brake master cylinder plunger rod.) 2. Remove front cylinder exhaust port flange nuts. (Save) 3. Remove rear cylinder exhaust flange bolts. (Save) 4. Remove two bolts connecting muffler mounting bracket to lower frame rail. 5. Remove bolt connecting muffler to upper muffler bracket. Carefully remove complete system from motorcycle. (Assistance is recommended.) Note : Apply tape on crank case area just in front of rear head pipe bend to protect paint during dissassembly and assembly. 6. Remove M6 x 35 button head screws connecting rear brake master cylinder reservoir to stock muffler bracket. (Do notdisconnect hose. Save screws.) 7. Remove stock upper muffler bracket. (Save M10 x 25 button head bolts for reassembly.) VANCE & HINES EXHAUST SYSTEM INSTALLATION 1. Check condition of stock exhaust gaskets. Replace if damaged or worn. 2. Install rear brake master cylinder reservoir bracket (stamped 333) using saved M10 x 25 bolts and supplied M10 lock nuts (Figure 1). 3. Attach rear brake master cylinder reservoir to bracket (stamped 333) using saved M6 x 35 screws and supplied M6 lock nuts (Figure 1). 4. Install and tighten mounting bracket (stamped 336) to frame using supplied M10 x 25 button head allen bolts (Figure 2), If required, M10 flat washers are provided to space bracket away from frame casting ridge. 5. Place heat shields on a non-abrasive surface such as a blanket or carpet. Mark outside surface of front and rear heat shields with location of mounting

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