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HARLEY DAVIDSON WHEEL BEARING REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION TOOL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 19-02-2011

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BEARING REMOVAL 1. Place the wheel vertically in a vise and protect the rim from being marred. NOTE See Figure 1 for the tool lubrication locations before using. 2. Assemble the remover tool. a. Install wheel bearing puller (1), (2) or (16) depending on the bearing I.D. See the service parts table for the size reference. Install the wheel bearing puller into the bearing by hand or use a rubber mallet ( not a hard-faced hammer) to push through the bearing I.D. Stop pushing on the bearing puller as soon as it has cleared the inside of the bearing race. There will be a slight click. b. Place main body puller (3) over bearing puller with the fingers of main body puller facing the wheel. Lightly oil all threads. c. Place the large brass washer (10) and nut (13) onto the puller and hand-tighten the nut until it stops at the top face of the bridge. 3. Remove the front wheel bearings. a. Apply a small amount of oil to the taper at the hex end of the expander dowel. Insert the expander dowel (7) through the other side of wheel bearings, and through the bearing puller. b. Install the washer (15 and nut (14) to the expander dowel and torque to 100 in-lbs (11.3 Nm) with a 11/16 inch wrench or socket while holding the other side of the expander dowel by reaching the opposite side of the wheel with a 3/8 inch hex key. c. Align the main body puller support fingers centered over the bearing to be removed. If main body puller will be directly on a finished chrome surface, protect the surface area. d. If resistance is felt with a torque wrench set at 40 ft- lbs (54.2 Nm) of torque, you will need to apply heat to the hub area surrounding the bearing. Prior to applying heat, place 2 to 3 temperature stickers (P/N 94146-10) around the circumference of the hub. Apply indirect heat using a heat gun. Do not exceed 210°F. With a 1-1/8 inch socket and torque wrench, turn the nut (13) until the bearing is pulled free from the wheel hub. e. Using a 3/8 in. hex key on an extension and torque wrench set on the expander dowel (7) and a 1-1/8 inch wrench. Turn the nut (13) until the bearing is free of the wheel hub. 4. Remove the wheel bearing spacer from the I.D. of the wheel hub. 5. Repeat steps 1 through 4 for the opposite bearing. NOTE Remove rear wheel belt sprocket before removing the bearings. 6. Rear wheel bearing removal is the same as steps 1 through 4 by using the correct size wheel bearing puller

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HARLEY DAVIDSON ENGINE/TRANSMISSION INTERFACE AND TOP COVER INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 19-04-2011

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INSTALLATION Perform this installation when the engine is cool. Working on or near the exhaust system when the engine is hot could result in severe burns. (00311a) 1. Refer to the Owner’s Manual and follow the instructions given to remove the maxi-fuse. 1 4 3 2 is03621 1. Transmission top cover screw (3) 2. Upper and lower rear bearing housing screw (2) 3. Upper front bearing housing screw 4. Lower front bearing housing screw Figure 1. Interface Cover Installation 2. See Figure 1. Remove the two rear bearing housing screws (2) from the side of the transmission case. 3. Remove the oil level dipstick from the oil spout on the side of the transmission housing, wipe off and set it aside for later installation. NOTE Insert a clean shop rag into the oil spout opening while the dipstick is not installed. With the dipstick removed, small parts or other foreign material could fall into the transmission, leading to equipment damage or malfunction. 4. See Figure 2. Obtain the rear interface mounting bracket (1) from the kit. 5. Apply a few drops of Loctite 243 (Blue) to the threads of the two bearing housing screws removed in Step 2. Install the rear interface mounting bracket to the bearing housing with the screws, and tighten to 13-18 ft-lbs (17.6-24.4 Nm) . 6. See Figure 1. Remove the upper front bearing housing screw (3) from the side of the transmission case. Loosen the lower front bearing housing screw (4). 7. See Figure 2. Obtain the front interface mounting bracket (2) from the kit. 8. Apply a few drops of Loctite 243 (Blue) to the threads of the upper front bearing housing screw removed in Step 6. Hook the slot in the front interface mounting bracket under the loosened lower screw head. Install the bracket to the bearing housing with the upper screw, and tighten both screws to 13-18 ft-lbs (17.6-24.4 Nm) . 9. See Figure 1. Remove and retain the three socket head cap screws (1) that fasten the right side and left front corner of the transmission cover. 10. Remove and retain the screw fastening the rear brake line P-clamp to the rear fork bracket. 11. See Figure 2. Obtain the right rear interface cover (3), two chrome 1/4-20 screws (6) and two flat washers (7) from the kit. 12. From the rear of the motorcycle, bring the right rear interface cover into position behind the rear exhaust pipe, over the bearing housing. The hole in the top surface of the cover should be positioned over the right rear transmission top cover hole. 13. Loosely fasten the interface cover to the rear interface mounting bracket with the two chrome screws and flat washers. 14. Obtain the chrome top interface cover (4) from the kit. 15. Position the top interface cover over the transmission top cover, overlapping the tab at the top front of the chrome right rear interface cover

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Honda 400EX Hub installation instructions

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 20-12-2011

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Remove all contents from its packaging and verify that all parts are present and free from damage. You should have the following items: (2) wheel hubs (2) smaller tapered bearings (2) large tapered bearings (2) wheel bearing nuts (2) dust caps (2) inner bearing seals (6) M3 x .5 screws (2) cotter pins (2) inner bearing spacers 2. Completely remove the old hubs from your quad and clean the spindle and the surrounding areas. It is very important to keep the new bearings and seals clean during installation for long life. Be sure to remove the factory inner bearing spacers from the spindle and discard. They will not be used in re-assembly. 3. Pack your new Timken tapered wheel bearings with a liberal amount of high quality wheel bearing grease. A wheel bearing packer works best, however you can accomplish the task by placing the grease in the palm of your hand and manually working it in between the bearing rollers. We also recommend that you pack the area between the bearing races in the hub with grease for additional lubrication and protection against moisture. 4. Place the large wheel bearing (inner) into the hub and install the inner seal. The seal should bottom out against the step in the bore and the face should be flush with the hub. 5. Remove the brake rotors from your old hubs. Re-install the rotors on your new hubs and be sure to use medium strength Loctite on the threads. 6. Apply a light film of grease or oil to the large diameter of the spindle stud. Install the new o-ringed bearing spacer onto the spindle. 7. Apply a thin film of grease to the seal surface on the bearing spacer and the inside diameter of the seal to prevent the seal from running dry. Install the hub onto the spindle and slide the outer bearing over the spindle and install the new bearing nut furnished with your hubs. Do not use the factory nut or washer. 8. SETTING THE BEARING PRELOAD: It is first necessary to seat the bearing before setting the preload. This aligns the rollers and prevents the bearings from loosening after a short period of use. To seat the bearing, tighten the spindle nut while you rotate the hub until the hub becomes difficult to spin. With the bearing now seated, you must set the bearing preload. Preload means placing a small amount of force against the bearings to remove any clearance between the bearing race and the rollers. This is done by backing the nut off completely and re-tightening it with your fingers. Do not rotate the hub while setting the preload . If a hole in the spindle is not accessible for installation of the cotter pin, adjust the nut tighter to bring a hole into alignment. Install the cotter pin and bend the pin around the outside of the nut. Do not attempt to bend the pin toward you (over the end of the spindle) or it may rub on the inside of the dust cap.

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KTM Front Wheel Bearing Installation Manuals

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Filed Under (KTM) by admin on 31-01-2012

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1 Place motorcycle on a stand so that the front wheel is off the ground. 2 Using a 27mm socket remove the front axle nut. Using a 10mm socket, loosen the four front axle pinch bolts. Slide front axle out of forks and remove front wheel. 3 Insert a long punch (with a good square edge) into the center of the aluminum wheel bearing spacers and push up against the inner edge of the spacer on the opposite side of the wheel (Fig. 1). Using a hammer, tap the punch around the entire circumference of the spacer until it completely slides out of the bearing (Fig. 2). Turn the wheel over and remove the other spacer in the same way. 4 Use a long screwdriver or narrow pry bar and pry the seals out of each side of the wheel (Fig. 3). 5 Using snap ring pliers, remove the bearing retaining snap ring from the brake rotor side of the wheel. (Fig. 4) NOTE: 2003 – CURRENT MODELS USING # 16-092 KIT DO NOT USE THIS SNAP RING. 6 Insert a long punch (with a good square edge) into the center of the wheel bearing, and push up against the inner edge of the bearing on the opposite side of the wheel. Using a hammer, tap the punch around the entire circumference of the bearing until it completely slides out of the hub. Turn the wheel over and remove the other bearing in the same way. NOTE: It may be necessary to tap on the punch sideways at first to knock the center aluminum sleeve off center so that you are able to get the punch on the edge of the bearing. 7 Clean areas where bearings will be inserted back into hub and apply a thin coat of grease around the machined hub surface. Tap the bearing on the snap ring (if used, either side if not) side of the hub into the machined hub surface, making sure to keep it square with the hub as it goes in and only tap on the outer race of the bearing. Once you get the bearing flush with the outer edge of the hub, use a socket or piece of pipe that is just smaller than the outside diameter of the bearing to finish tapping the bearing into the hub. (Fig. 5) 8 Install the bearing retainer snap ring (if used) into the groove machined in the hub, and then tap the seal in place over the snap ring with the spring on the seal in towards the center of the wheel. Tap in the aluminum spacer in the center of the seal.

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KTM Rear Wheel Bearing Installation and REMOVAL

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Filed Under (KTM) by admin on 23-01-2012

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1 Insert a long punch (with a good square edge) into the center of the aluminum wheel bearing spacers and push up against the inner edge of the spacer on the opposite side of the wheel (Fig. 1). 2 Using a hammer, tap the punch around the entire circumference of the spacer until it completely slides out of the bearing (Fig. 2). Turn the wheel over and remove the other spacer in the same way. 3 Use a long screwdriver or narrow pry bar and pry the seals out of each side of the wheel (Fig. 3). 4 Using snap ring pliers, remove the bearing retaining snap ring from either the disc or sprocket side of the wheel (Fig. 4). 5 Insert a long punch (with a good square edge) into the center of the wheel bearing, and push up against the inner edge of the bearing on the opposite side of the wheel. Using a hammer, tap the punch around the entire circumference of the bearing until it completely slides out of the hub. Turn the wheel over and remove the other bearing in the same way. NOTE: It may be necessary to tap on the punch sideways at first to knock the center aluminum sleeve off center so that you are able to get the punch on the edge of the bearing. 6 Clean areas where bearings will be inserted back into hub and apply a thin coat of grease around the machined hub surface. Tap the bearing on the snap ring side of the hub into the machined hub surface, making sure to keep it square with the hub as it goes in and only tap on the outer race of the bearing. Once you get the bearing flush with the outer edge of the hub, use a socket or piece of pipe that is just smaller than the outside diameter of the bearing to finish tapping the bearing into the hub. (Fig. 5)

harley davidson CRUISE CONTROL KIT INSTALLATION

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 23-02-2012

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See Figure 1. Place a 5/32-inch (4 mm) thick insert between the brake lever and the lever bracket. 5. Refer to the service manual, and follow the instructions to loosen the brake hand lever/master cylinder assembly and remove the right-side upper and lower switch housing sub-assemblies from the handlebar. It is not necessary to remove the throttle control grip. For FLHR models: Refer to the service manual. Disconnect the left-side handlebar MOLEX socket housing from the gray eight-way main harness pin housing [24B] inside the headlamp nacelle. Refer to the service manual to remove the clutch hand lever and left-side upper and lower switch housing subassemblies from the handlebar. 6. For ALL models: See Figure 2. The friction shoe (1) is a loose fit on the end of the tension adjuster screw (2). Make sure the shoe has been removed with the switch housing sub-assemblies, and is not lodged in the groove of the throttle control grip (4). 3 4 1 2 is06318 1. Friction shoe 2. Tension adjuster screw 3. Right-side lower switch housing 4. Throttle control grip Figure 2. Throttle Tension Adjuster Screw and Friction Shoe 7. See Figure 1. Verify that the 5/32-inch (4 mm) thick insert is in place between the brake lever and the lever bracket. Obtain the new right-side handlebar switch housing assembly (Item 4 or 5, depending on model) from the kit. Separate the upper and lower halves of the housing assembly. Refer to the service manual, and follow the instructions to install the switch housing assembly and brake hand lever/master cylinder assembly to the handlebar. 8. Route the right-side switch harness along the same path as the original harness (along the right handlebar). Connect the pin housing to the black socket housing disconnected in Step 3. 9. For FLHT, FLHTC, FLHX, FLHXXX and FLTRX models: Continue at Step 11. For FLHR models: Obtain the new left-side switch housing assembly (6) from the kit. Separate the upper and lower halves of the switch housing assembly. Refer to the service manual, and follow the instructions to install the left-side switch housing assembly and clutch hand lever assembly to the handlebar. 10. Route the left-side hand control harness along the same path as the original harness (along the left handlebar). Connect the pin housing to the gray socket housing disconnected in Step 5

BMW K1100LT/ RS Repair Manual

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Filed Under (BMW) by admin on 03-12-2010

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00.3 00 Tightening torque Model K 1100 LT K 1100 RS Connection Nm 11 Engine Freewheel Cover plate/freewheel cage at countershaft gear 10 Oil – water pump Oil pressure switch 40 Temperature sensor/screw plug 9 Pressure relief valve 40 Impeller 33 Pump housing to crankcase 10 Cover to pump housing 10 (3-Bond 1209) Intermediate flange Thrust plate at intermediate flange 9 (Loctite 243) Intermediate flange at crankcase 9 Crankshaft Pinion/rotor flange at crankshaft 50 Main bearing cap to crankcase 50 Connecting rod Big end cap Wrench angle 80 ° 30 Input shaft Front bearing 18 Rear bearing 40 Engine block Crankshaft cover 9 Lower part, outer 10 Oil sump 10 Oil filter cover 10 Oil drain plug 30 Cylinder head Cylinder head bolts (SI 11 062 95 (697) Short thread (from 6/93 to 11/94): Wrench angle, 1st stage Wrench angle, 2nd stage Long thread (since 12/94): Wrench angle, 1st stage Wrench angle, 2nd stage 64° 42° 75° 75° 22 20 Cylinder head cover 9 Camshaft Bearing cap 9 (Apply a thin coat of 3-Bond 1209 only at corners and butt edges) Chain sprockets 54 00.4 Timing chain Chain tensioner 9 Slide rail at camshaft bearing cap 9 Timing case cover Timing case cover 10 (3-Bond 1209) Cover for Hall-effect signal transmitter 9 Screw plug 40 Clutch Clutch housing to output shaft Tighten to Release and re-tighten to Wrench angle 50° 140 50 Housing cover 19 Alternator Alternator to intermediate flange 22 Driver 33 Starter motor Starter motor to gearbox 9 Mixture preparation Intake stub pipe 9 Fuel injection rail 9 Cooling system Coolant stub pipe at cylinder head 9 Temperature sensor at coolant stub pipe 30 Air cleaner Lower part of air cleaner housing 21 12 Engine electrical system Starter to transmission 9 Positive lead to starter 5 Alternator to intermediate flange 22 Clutch housing 50 Base plate 3,5 Setting ring 2,5 Hall generator cover 9 Ignition coils to intermediate flange 5 Spark plug 20 Model K 1100 LT K 1100 RS Connection Nm 00.5 13 Fuel preparation and control Injection rail 9 Intake stub pipe 9 Lower section of air cleaner housing 21 Intake air line 9 Motronic control unit 5 17 Radiator Connecting screw, temperature sensor 9 Fastening, thermostat cover 3 Radiator to frame 9 Coolant stub pipe to cylinder head 9 (with Loctite 243) Temperature sensor to coolant stub pipe 30 18 Exhaust System Exhaust system to cylinder head 21 Front silencer (muffler) 12 Exhaust system holder to footrest plate 33 Exhaust system to holder/footrest plate 9 Retaining bracket to gearbox 41 Oxygen sensor Hand-tight 21 Clutch Clutch housing to output shaft tighten to loosen and retighten to tightening angle 50° 140 50 Housing cover

HARLEY DAVIDSON CHROME INNER PRIMARY HOUSING INSTALLATION INSTRUCTION

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 29-01-2011

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Kit Contents Table 1. Kit Contents Part Number Description (Quantity) Not sold separately Chrome Inner Primary Housing 786A Sealing fastener (5) INSTALLATION NOTES Whenever the sealing fasteners are loosened or removed, they must be replaced. Always replace using Harley-Davidson® Original Equipment sealing fasteners part 786A. Do not use part 786. The primary housing included in this kit installs in the same manner as the stock inner primary housing with the following exception: Use the five sealing fasteners included with this kit. Install and tighten fasteners to the torque specified below. For 2006 Dyna model motorcycles: Remove dowel pins from the chrome inner primary housing before attempting installation. Using a pair of pliers or vice grips, remove the dowel pins by carefully twisting and pulling on the pins. Be careful not to scratch or mar the chrome or sealing surfaces of the chrome inner primary housing. Remove the chain tensioner anchor plate, bolt and screws from the stock inner primary housing after it has been removed, then install it on the chrome inner primary housing. See the appropriate Service Manual for the proper tightening procedure, and torque specifications. 1. See the Drive section of the appropriate Service Manual, and remove the stock inner primary housing. Clean the internal threads in the crankcase and transmission case where the sealing fasteners were removed using a wire brush. Install the chrome inner primary housing as indicated below. Replace the five stock sealing fasteners with the five bolts included in this kit. Put a light coat of primary oil under the head of the sealing fasteners and then tighten to 23-25 ft- lbs (31-34 Nm)

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HARLEY DAVIDSON MULTI-FIT BRAIDED THROTTLE/ IDLE CABLE KITS REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 01-02-2011

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REMOVAL To prevent accidental vehicle start-up, which could cause death or serious injury, disconnect negative (-) battery cable before proceeding. (00048a) 1. Disconnect battery cables, negative (-) cable first or remove the main fuse following the instructions in the service manual. NOTE When performing cable disassembly procedures, make careful notes as to the existing cable routing. Pay special attention to existing cable strap locations before removing so new straps can be placed into the same locations. Do not remove or install the master cylinder assembly without first positioning a 5/32-inch (4 mm) thick insert between the brake lever and lever bracket. Removing or installing the master cylinder assembly without the insert in place may result in damage to the rubber boot and plunger on the front stoplight switch. (00324a) 2. See Figure 1. Place the cardboard insert between the brake lever and lever bracket. 3. See Figure 2. Loosen cable adjuster jam nuts. Turn cable adjusters in until they are as short as possible. This will provide enough slack for easy removal. 4. Remove the right upper and lower switch housing screws INSTALLATION Throttle and Idle Cable Installation 1. See Figure 3. Apply graphite lightly to the throttle grip inside the switch housing and on the throttle end of the handlebar. NOTE The throttle control cable has a larger diameter retaining ring crimped to the cable end than does the idle control cable. For assembly, apply a drop of light oil on the retaining rings of the crimped inserts. 2. See Figure 7. Push the throttle cable housing and retaining ring into the larger hole of the switch housing, located in front of the tension adjuster screw. 3. Push the idle cable housing and retaining ring into the smaller hole of the switch housing, located behind the tension adjuster screw. 4. Push the throttle and idle control cable housings into the lower switch housing until each snaps into place. NOTE For models not equipped with factory-installed cruise control, if the friction shoe has fallen out or become dislodged, install the shoe with the concave side facing up and position it so the pin hole is over the point of the adjuster screw. 5. Push the throttle control grip over the end of the right handlebar until it bottoms against the closed end. Rotate the grip until the ferrule notches are at the top. To prevent binding, pull the grip back about 0.12 inch (3.2 mm). 6. See Figure 3. Position the lower switch housing beneath the throttle control grip. Install two brass ferrules (Item 3, Figure 11) from this kit onto cables, seating the ferrules in their respective notches on the throttle control grip. The cables must be captured in the grooves molded into the grip. 7. Position the upper switch housing over the handlebar and lower switch housing. Route the wire harness conduit through the depression at the bottom of the handlebar. 8. Tighten the upper and lower switch housing screws finger- tight. 9. Position the brake lever/master cylinder assembly inboard of the switch housing assembly, engaging the tab on the lower switch housing in the groove at the top of the brake lever bracket. 10. Align the holes in the handlebar clamp with those in the master cylinder housing and tighten the lower screw and flat washer finger-tight. Position for rider comfort. Beginning with the top screw, tighten the screws to 60-80 in-lbs (6.8-9.0 Nm)

AJS DISMANTLING AND REBUILDING FULL-WIDTH FRONT WHEEL HUBS INSTALLATION

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Filed Under (AJS) by admin on 31-10-2010

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Removal of the Brake-side Bearing Cup The bearing cup (5) is located endwise by a circlip (1), and between the cup and circlip arc an oil-seal retaining washer (4), oil seal (3), and oil-seal cup washer (2) Before these parts can be removed from the hub the bearing cup must be moved inwards for a very short distance (3/16-inch) so that the circlip can be withdrawn. (n) Gently heat the hub shell. (i) Place a soft metal rod (e.g. brass) against the oil-seal cup washer (2) and apply pressure with a hand press or hammer blows. It is only necessary to move the bearing cup (5) inwards about 1/16-inch. (j) Extract the circlip by inserting a narrow pen-knife blade under one end of the circlip; lift it upwards and outwards and prise the clip out of its groove. (k) Remove the oil-seal cup washer (2), oil seal (3) and oil-seal retaining washer (4). They can be hooked out with the shank of a small and narrow screw­ driver, (l) The bearing cup can now be ejected by placing a suitable rod of soft metal (e.g. brass) in the hub tunnel from the right-hand side and pressing it — with a press or hammer blows — against the bearing cup until the cup is forced out of the bearing. This must be done with care so that the cup remains square with the housing. Reassembly To facilitate replacement of the bearing cups gently heat the hub shell. Just too hot to hold is about the right temperature. (a) Place the brake-side bearing cup squarely in the hub shell — the open end faces inwards — and press it into the hub tunnel A short length of brass rod, slightly less than the outside dia­ meter of the cup, should be interposed between the cup and ram of the press, or hammer head. Press the cup in until the outer face is approximately half-an-inch below the mouth of the hub tunnel. This will allow sufficient room to allow [he circlip to be inserted into its groove. (b) Refit in the following order: oil-seal retaining washer (4), oil seal (3), oil-seal cup washer (2). (c) The circlip can now be replaced. In the interest of reliability use a new circlip, for it is possible that the existing circlip was strained when it was re­ moved. (d) Insert into the hub tunnel from the right-hand side a brass rod of suitable length, and press the bearing cup firmly against the circlip. (e) Before inserting the spindle complete with the roller races, pack them with clean and fresh grease of a suitable grade (Mobilgrease No. 4. Castrolease heavy, Energrease C3, Esso Pressure Gun Grease. Shelf Retinax Grease CD or A). (0 Insert the spindle into the hub. (g) Place the right-hand side bearing cup in the hub tunnel; the open end faces inwards, It may be necessary to re-heat the hub to allow the cup to go into position without difficulty. (h) Press the cup into position, but do not force it fully home, leave some end play on the spindle. (i) Refit in the following order: oil-seal retaining washer (6), oil-seal (7) and oil-seal cup washer (8). (j) Screw into the hub the adjusting sleeve (9) until it comes into contact with the bearing cup (5)

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