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KAWASAKI 1500 CARB THUNDER Air Filter Kit Installation And removal Instruction

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 25-10-2010

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1) Remove Seat 10mm KAW 1500 CARB ADPTOR QTY PARTS LIST 1 1500 CARB ADAPTOR 1 3″ PIECE OF HOSE 1 DOUBLE BARB 1 L-BARB 1 3/8″ RED PLUG 1 ¼” BLACK VACCUM PLUG 1 M6-1 NYLON INSERT LOCK NUT 3 M6-1 X 16 FLAT SOCKET HD CAP SCREW 1 170 MJ 1 INSTRUCTIONS 2) Remove Dash Plaque 8mm bottom Bolt only 3) Lift from bottom then Remove speedo cable 4) Disconnect Electric Plugs 5) Remove 12mm bolts holding tank 6) Turn petcock OFF – Pinch off fuel line. 7) Disconnect the electric Plug under speedo opening 8) Lift Tank at Rear – Disconnect two Vent Lines; Fuel gage Vent will Pull up – Remove. 9) Remove Chrome Air Cover. 10) Left side Remove two screws – 10mm bolt in side Air box. Pull hoses off Remove 1″ hose going to cross over Tube. 11) Remove two 8mm bolts on Bracket – Remove Bracket 12) Remove Screw on Top of air Box Snorkel 13) Remove both side covers 14) Remove air Backing plate right side (Crank Case Breather hose that connects to stock air box will connect to new) 15) Remove Bracket that holds Carb and holds Backing Plate 16) Take idle adjustable Knob loose – let hang loose 17) Take Choke Knob out of holding Bracket 18) Hose that went to cross over tube MAY BE PLUGGED OR VENTED your Choice (Fresh air unit) ** 98′S or any models with carb warmer should disconnect carb warmer by pinching off line on each side of connector that plugs into carb on bottom. Small bracket with one screw directly on the bottom of carb. 19) Loosen Clamp that holds Carb to intake Manifold, Carb will hang loose 20) Remove intake Manifold 5mm Allen- Remove crossover tube. 21) (- BE CAREFULL-) LINE IT UP RIGHT- Replace intake Manifold (YOU MAY TO SEAL THIS WITH A SEALER LIKE PERMATEX) ( BE SUPER CAREFUL TO KEEP INTAKE COVERED DURING EACH STEP. SCREWS CAN FALL ONTO INTAKE) 22) Drain Float Bowl 3mm allen – very bottom of carb 23) Remove Float Bowl 4 screws (#2 Phillips) let hang down 24) Remove main jet, if Emulsion tube comes out use 8mm and Flat tip to separate jet from Emulsion tube. 25) Install with new jet 26) CAREFULLY Reinstall Float Bowl Cover 27) If installing Needle Remove Top Cover of Carb, Carefully pull the slide out. ( BE CAREFUL WITH DIAPHRAM) Remove Spring + Needle Install new Needle (WE RECOMMEND THE 3RD CLIP FROM TOP WITH TWO WASHERS ON TOP. REINSTALL 28) Be sure to reseat diaphragm – BE CAREFUL Reinstall Cover. 29) Install Carb to Intake – reconnect carb warmer if applicable 30) Reattach idle adjustment 31) Reattach Choke 32) Reattach Bracket in front of Carb- 33) Take Center bolt mount Rubber Gromlet from Stock Air box Plate install in to new Air box Adapter use stock Bolt, Attach to Bracke

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2010 Harley-Davidson New Model and Technical Information

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 15-12-2010

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Meet MY2010 EPA Emissions regulations for all Harley- Davidson®vehicles sold in 50 state and Canadian markets •Reduce oxygen intrusion into the exhaust system -Promotes catalyst health and efficiency New rib/curl pipe end feature offers positive muffler stop and improved pipe consistency. 2010 Dyna®Models Crossover joints updated with new clamp and gasket. Updated joint New clamp (Comes w/gasket) New Gasket Torque 15-19 ft-lbs (20.3-25.8 Nm) 2010 Dyna®Models New 2010 FXDWG Wide Glide® New 2010 FXDWG Wide Glide® New rear fender New Floating Front Brake Rotors* New fuel tank with wider tunnel* *All Dyna®Models Current FXDB solo seat with new cover New sissybar New pillion Current FXDWG front forks with 1″shorter overall length Current FXDWG front wheel (steel) (21×2.15) black rim with chrome spokes & machined hub; Front tire pattern -GT402 FXDWG front fender 34 degree frame with tank mount boss raised by ¾” New handlebar with FXDF risers/caps *Michelin®tires on all but FXDF and FXDWG FXDB rear wheel (black rim with chrome spokes) (17×4.5) (180- 60×17), rear tire pattern -GT502 (Screamin’Eagle®) FXDF exhaust pipes & mufflers with chrome exhaust shields Gloss black rear forging covers Current FXDB rear shocks with top covers Current FXDC battery cover with chrome Wide Glide®trim Forward foot controls New 2010 FXDWG Wide Glide® Domestic tail lights Canada & all International tail lights Taillight (HDI/Canada) Side mount license plate Domestic only •Internally wired handlebar •34 degree frame with tank mount boss raised by ¾”& rear forgings moved out 2mm each side from FXDF •Flame tank replacement part is VIN restricted •Two new rear fenders (Domestic & HDI/Canada)

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Kawasaki Ninja 250 FAQ

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 15-11-2010

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Am I too small for this motorcycle? Duke – Sun May 14 17:38:31 2000 I’m only about 5’2″ and don’t have a problem, even though I can only touch the ground with the ends of my toes. Once you get a feel for the balance of the bike it’s not hard to keep everything upright. Only place I have trouble is pushing the bike backwards in a parking lot. Usually I just walk the bike (beside it) to where I can get on and get going. How does the EX500 compare to the EX250? Craig M. – Mon May 22 10:23:29 2000 I have both the EX250 and the EX500; both are Y2K models. The 250 is a screamer that performs well and can easily get me into trouble. My only complaints about the 250 are the excessive nose dive when getting on the front brake hard and the skittishness of the rear during high speed cornering. Both are easily corrected with suspension adjustments, I’ve just been too lazy to get the parts and do the work. A bit more wind protection would be great too. The 500 addresses these problems, the diving of the front end (to a degree); the rear’s skittishness and the wind protection. A plus for the 500 is the greater torque and power off the line; it pulls stronger (in my opinion) and will get you into illegal speed territory just a bit quicker than the 250. With greater weight, is has more stability in high speed and windy situations. Insurance is just about the same for both, with the 250 getting the nod for gas mileage. Service requirements are almost identical for both as well, being that they’re both parallel twins, the technology is the virtually the same. The downfalls of the 500: $2K more than the 250 (can do a lot to the 250 with that kind of money); buzzy mirrors, barely useful; heavier weight to have to push around the garage; lesser gas mileage (55-60 MPG; 250 pushes 70 MPG easily); engine is worse than a nervous dog shaking around at idle and at speed (here the 250 is far superior and much smoother). In my opinion, the 500 is a better suited for a larger rider, from a comfort standpoint. I feel I can stretch out a bit more on it than the 250 (I’m 5′ 9″, 160 lbs). The 250′s brakes are better tuned than the 500 and the shifter is much smoother. That may be due to the 3,500 mile difference between the two bikes. Bottom line, both bikes are great, the 250 is now my wife’s ride (mainly) and the 500′s mine (unless she steals the keys away). In time, I’ll make the adjustments to the 250; she doesn’t push it like I do.

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HW Prowler Carburetor Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Mikuni) by admin on 31-10-2010

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1. Remove both seats and the plastic seat pans under the seats. 2. Remove the engine cover 3. Remove the air-box by removing the cross-bar support that runs under the air-box to the framing on each side by the seat framing and disconnect the air box from the carburetor and from the plastic intake in the rear. 4. Disconnect the engine breather hose from the bottom of the air box 5. Set the air-box to the side 6. Disconnect the plug going to the stock carburetor, this is the electronic choke. Wrap the end left on the vehicle with electrical tape. 7. Cut the fuel line just above the fitting on the passenger side of the carb 8. Remove the side cover off the drivers side of the carb where the throttle cable goes in, see fig. #1 9. Pull the throttle cable out and then remove the throttle cable end from the throttle plate See Fig. #2 10. Loosen the clamp on the rear of the carb holding the carb on 11. Pull the carb out of the intake boot 12. Set OE carb to the side. 13. Push the new Carb into the intake boot making sure the carb is perfectly vertical and then tighten the clamp back up. The new carb is slightly larger than the stock one so some additional pressure will be needed to get it in. 14. Route all the breather lines connected to the carb down under the carb. 15. Connect the throttle cable onto the new carb but putting the cable end in the bottom hole of the throttle plate on the passenger side of the carb allowing the cable to ride in the slot in the plate and then turn the throttle plate clock wise allowing the threaded end of the cable to fit into the lower round hole of the throttle cable connection plate. See Fig. #3 16. Make sure you have a nut on each side of the plate turn the nut on the outside of the plate to take up the slack in the throttle cable then tighten the nut on the inside of the plate. See Fig. #3 17. Push the fuel line onto the fuel inlet on the passenger side of the carb and install the supplied clamp to hold it on. The fuel line will be a little hard to push on. 18. DO NOT ATTEMPT TO INSTALL THE CHOKE CABLE PARTS SUPPLIED IN THE KIT UNTIL AFTER THE CHOKE CABLE ITSELF IS INSTALLED AND READY TO SCREW INTO THE CARBUETOR. 19. To install the supplied choke cable, drill a 3/8″ hole in the dash on the left side of the steering wheel in a location convenient to your left hand. 20. Remove the plastic nut from the bottom of the choke handle on the choke cable. 21. Push the choke cable thru the hole you drilled and then slide the nut over the cable to the inside of the dash and reinstall back on the back of the choke mechanism. Some dash screws maybe needed to be removed to accomplish this

RESTYLED 2009 TOYOTA RAV4 DEBUTS NEW FUEL-EFFICIENT FOUR-CYLINDER ENGINE AND ADDS NEW SAFETY, CONVENIENCE AND USER TECHNOLOGY FEATURES

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Filed Under (Toyota Manuals) by admin on 17-09-2011

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Toyota has restyled its popular RAV4 compact sport utility vehicle for 2009. The new standard 2.5-liter four-cylinder engine is more powerful than the previous 2.4-liter engine and is more fuel efficient. In addition, all RAV4 models feature interior upgrades and a comprehensive new Sport Appearance Package is available for the 4WD V6 model. All RAV4 models receive enhanced safety and security features with standard front seat active headrests and an engine immobilizer. Comfort, convenience and user technology are also significantly enhanced in 2009 RAV4 models. The Limited grade adds a new standard Smart Entry system that allows the driver to open the vehicle by simply carrying the key fob and grasping the door handle. The Sport and Limited grades offer an available new rear backup monitor. Integrated satellite radio is newly available for 2009, and the Sport and Limited grades offer a new low-cost navigation system. All RAV4 models gain new standard seat fabric, and the Sport grade exclusively offers a new, unique Charcoal leather option.

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2009 TOYOTA RAV4 DEBUTS NEW FUEL EFFICIENT FOUR CYLINDER ENGINE AND ADDS NEW SAFETY

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Filed Under (Toyota Manuals) by admin on 01-10-2011

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Toyota has restyled its popular RAV4 compact sport utility vehicle for 2009. The new standard 2.5-liter four-cylinder engine is more powerful than the previous 2.4-liter engine and is more fuel efficient. In addition, all RAV4 models feature interior upgrades and a comprehensive new Sport Appearance Package is available for the 4WD V6 model. All RAV4 models receive enhanced safety and security features with standard front seat active headrests and an engine immobilizer. Comfort, convenience and user technology are also significantly enhanced in 2009 RAV4 models. The Limited grade adds a new standard Smart Entry system that allows the driver to open the vehicle by simply carrying the key fob and grasping the door handle. The Sport and Limited grades offer an available new rear backup monitor. Integrated satellite radio is newly available for 2009, and the Sport and Limited grades offer a new low-cost navigation system. All RAV4 models gain new standard seat fabric, and the Sport grade exclusively offers a new, unique Charcoal leather option.

2008 KTM 250 SX-F 250 XC-F, XCF-W 250 EXC-F, EXC-F SIX DAYS INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (KTM) by admin on 22-10-2010

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Hand brake lever The hand brake lever [1] is mounted on the handlebars on the right and actuates the front wheel brake. The adjusting screw [A] can be used to change the basic position of the hand brake lever (see “Maintenance”). 1 A Short circuit button The short circuit button [2] turns off the engine. When pressing this button, the ignition circuit is short-circuited. 2 Headlamp switch (XCF-W) In this model the headlamp is switched on with the pull switch [5] . 5 Flasher switch The flasher switch is a separate unit and is mounted on the left portion of the handlebar. The wire harness is designed in a way that whenever you want to use your bike off-road, you can dismount the entire turn indicator system without affecting the function of the remaining electrical system. Flasher left Flasher right
OPERATION INSTRUMENTS » ENGLISH 7 1 2 3 4 5 Starter button Pushing the red starter button [1] will actuate the E-starter. Emergency OFF switch (EXC-F Australia) The red emergency-OFF switch [2] is arranged adjacent to the throttle grip. In this position, the E-starter is operational and the engine can be started. In this position, the E-starter and ignition circuits are interrupted.The E-starter cannot be actuated, and the engine will not start, not even if you attempt to start it with the kickstarter. Pushing the black starter button [3] will actuate the E-starter. Indicator lamps The green control lamp [4] flashes in the same rhythm as the flashing indicator when the indicator is working. The blue control lamp [5] lights up when the high beam is on. TEST All of the display segments briefly light up for the display function test. Electronic speedometer The display in the electronic speedometer is activated as soon as you press a button on the speedometer or an impulse is received from the wheel sensor. The display lights up when the engine is running. The display is cleared if no button is pressed for 1 minute or no impulse is received from the wheel sensor. The button is used to change between display modes. The + and – buttons are used to control various functions

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AJS Big-end replacement instructions

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Filed Under (AJS) by admin on 31-10-2010

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Above: Once the first wheel is off, the pin can be removed in the vice using a drift and spacer. Right: Out with the old; in with the new. Big-end track renewal is a two- in-one operation. Left: No wonder the original bearing was making let-me-out noises! New big end assemblies come dipped in a protective plastic coating. Below: A smear of grease stops the new rollers squirting all over the place. Cotton tape holds them tight to the pin, until the big end is in position. Below. Ensure that the new pin is absolutely square before you attempt to press it in. Mating faces must be operating theatre clean. one out of the con-rod as you fit it. A short piece of square-ended pipe makes a spacer, but take great care that the track goes in square. Soft jaws in the vice prevent damage. The new bearing will usually be grease packed, which helps to stick uncaged rollers onto the inner track. Wrap a length of tape around, pulling it out as you drop the big end eye over. Get the rod the right way round! Check the fit, because the con-rod can occasionally squeeze a new outer race so that it nips the rollers. Lapping it in is the cure, but that’s not within the scope of this article. (Universal journalists’ copout). Press up the second flywheel, using a set square to get the alignment about right, and nip up the nut. The scrap box supplied materials for my truing jig. Two pairs of small roller bearings support the mainshafts, and one support post is adjustable to allow for different crank widths and shaft diameters. For ease and accuracy, a dial gauge wins every time, and if you compare it to the cost of employing an expert, you’ll have no difficulty in justifying the expense. Wedge the con-rod between

APRILIA SPORTCITY 125-200 Technical specifications

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Filed Under (Aprilia) by admin on 07-11-2010

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The engine and transmission assembly also acts as swing arm. Suspension is provided by two rear shock absorbers. Spring preload is adjustable for maximum efficiency under all load and road conditions. Rear wheel travel is 80 mm , more than enough to smooth out even the roughest surfaces. The SPORTCITY 250 i.e. is equipped with 15 inch wheels and large, high profile tubeless tyres (120/70 at the front and 130/80 at the rear). Rolling diameter is therefore equivalent to that of a 16 inch tyre but the ability to absorb shocks from rough road surfaces is far better, ensuring a superbly smooth ride. In conjunction with the excellent frame, this intelligent choice of tyres gives the SPORTCITY 250 i.e. excellent stability and the sort of intuitive feel that makes it a piece of cake to ride even for novices . The brakes are another of the strong points of the SPORTCITY 250 i.e. . The new system features triple discs for far shorter stopping distances and far greater active safety. Even inexperienced riders will have no trouble in pulling up well ahead of trouble. At 90 km/h the SPORTCITY 250 i.e. takes just 2.7 seconds to come to a full stop . The front brakes feature two 260 mm discs and floating calipers with two parallel pistons . The rear disc is a 220 mm unit with single piston caliper. Engine technology is another major plus point for the SPORTCITY 250 i.e. Its new electronic fuel injected engine is state of the art on the scooter scene . Powerful, flexible, and extremely low on emissions and consumption, this 250 cc single cylinder unit is perfect for the job in hand. Developing 22.5 HP at 8,000 rpm with 21 Nm of torque at 6,250 rpm, the engine delivers standard-setting performance . It also enables the Sportcity to function as a fun to ride sports scooter not only in town centres but on fast urban ring roads too. And the SPORTCITY 250 i.e. respects the environment wherever it goes, being one of the few scooters to conform to Euro 3 emission control standards. Finally, miserly fuel consumption and a generous 9 litre tank give the SPORTCITY 250 i.e. great autonomy . Engine Horizontal, single cylinder, 4 stroke. Forced liquid cooling with centrifugal pump. 4 valve head with overhead camshaft Fuel Unleaded petrol Bore and stroke 72 x 60 mm Displacement 244,29 cc Compression ratio 11:1 Maximum power 16.5 HP (22.5 kW) at 8,000 rpm Maximum torque 21 Nm at 6,250 rpm Fuel system Electronic fuel injection Ignition Electronic inductive discharge ignition with variable advance Starting Electric Alternator 300 W Lubrication Wet sump. Forced circulation with mechanical pump Gearbox Automatic torque converter Clutch Automatic centrifugal dry clutch Primary drive V belt Final drive Gearbox Frame Open cradle in high tensile strength steel Front suspension Hydraulic telescopic fork with 35 mm stanchions. Wheel travel 100 mm Rear suspension Engine unit acting as swinging arm. Double hydraulic shock absorber with adjustable preload. Wheel travel 80 mm Brakes Front: Twin ∅ 260 mm stainless steel discs. Twin piston floating callipers Rear: ∅ 220 mm stainless steel disc Wheels Light alloy Front: 2.75 x 15″ Rear: 3.00 x 15″ Tyres Tubeless. Front: 120 / 70 x 15″ Rear: 130 / 80 x 15″ Dimensions Maximum length: 1,985 mm Maximum width: 880 mm (at mirrors) Wheelbase: 1,360 mm Seat height; 815 mm Dry weight 148 kg Tank capacity 9 litres (reserve 1.5 litres) Colours Excalibur Grey, Shot Grey, Couture Blue, Moka Black Accessories 28 litre top box, 32 litre top box, 35 litre top box, large windshield, sports windshield, leg cover

42MM MIKUNI FLATSLIDE CARBURETOR INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Mikuni) by admin on 31-10-2010

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To install, remove the stock carb per Yamaha shop manual procedures. Remove stock throttle cables. Install Mikuni HSR carb into intake manifold and tighten manifold clamp. Install new HSR series throttle cables and adjust cable slack per Yamaha shop manual procedures. Hook fuel line to HSR carb and fasten clamp.* Start motorcycle and fine tune HSR carb for proper running per supplied Mikuni tuning manual. *NOTE: Mikuni HSR series carburetors are designed for gravity-feed fuel systems. You should bypass your stock fuel pump and directly feed your HSR carb right from the fuel petcock. We have noted, though, that you may not be able to get good fuel flow from your Road Star fuel tank in low-fuel situations. You may run your stock fuel pump with the HSR carb, but to do so requires the purchase and installation of an adjustable fuel pressure regulator (set at 1/2 to 1 lb. of pressure). These are available from most auto parts stores. The stock carb has 2 wires running to the lower rear of the float bowl , these were for a carb warmer, they are not used in this application. Unplug these wires at the main wire harness and retain with your stock carb. The Road Star ignition system uses data from the stock throttle position sensor (TPS) to manage your ignition timing. It is necessary to give the bike this information. You may do so by removing the TPS sensor from the stock carb, leaving it plugged into the main wire harness (the sensor must be fixed to a closed-throttle position), or you may locate the plug for the TPS on the main wire harness and test the leads – you will find one ground, one with .5V and one with 1.5V. Connect the 1.5V to the ground and this will give the bike the same information as stock fully closed throttle. The output of the OEM fuel pump is too high and will cause fuel overflow in the HSR carb, resulting in a possible dangerous fire hazard

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