owners manual 2003 yamaha v starr 1100 classic

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Yamaha XVS650 and 1100 Drag Star/V-Star Service and Repair Manual

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 27-04-2011

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Fortunately, Haynes cruises to the rescue with the introduction of its new Service and Repair Manual for all Yamaha XVS650 and 1100 models – XVS650 (‘97-’05), XVS650A Classic (‘98-’05), XVS1100 (‘99–’05) and XVS1100A Classic (‘00–’05). Hailed as “… essential reading for any biker tackling his own servicing…” by Motor Cycle News, Haynes manuals have an enviable reputation. The new manual provides fully illustrated, step-by-step instructions for DIY servicing, overhaul and repairs of the engine and transmission, fuel and ignition systems, suspension and steering, the braking system and the electrical system. Each task is given a spanner rating for complexity and experience required. Checking and adjusting the valve clearances is rated as three spanners out of five. There are full-colour sections on the history of the models, on daily preride hecks and those all-important wiring diagrams, plus tools required and Haynes Hints. For instance, when changing the brake fluid how to tell when all the old fluid has been displaced The section guiding readers

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YAMAHA V-Star 1100 Motorcycle Enhancements Remote Oil Filter Installation Manual

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 10-11-2010

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Removing Your Old Filter and Beauty Cover In order to install the new Remote Oil Filter Kit, you’ll need to remove the stock Yamaha “beauty cover” and the old filter and filter cover. Remove the engine parts necessary to access the stock filter as outlined in the V-Star owner’s manual. The parts should come off in this order: 1. Muffler assembly 2. Front exhaust pipe 3. Rear brake reservoir cover bolt and brake cover (the reservoir should not be removed, it can remain in place and be moved aside as needed) 4. Right floorboard (this can be simply loosened, by loosening the two bolts underneath) With the above parts removed, you can remove the Allen bolts holding the beauty cover and filter cap from your engine. There are five Allen bolts holding the beauty cover (so named, because most of the cover just covers the chromed side of the engine There are five bolts holding the cover. Ignore the three on the “Yamaha” cap in the middle – these just hold the Yamaha cap to the beauty cover itself. One bolt is hidd – in this picture – just be the Yamaha ca en low p. The bottommost bolt on the beauty cover will likely leak some oil when you remove it – it holds on the inner oil filter cover. Once you remove the beauty cover, you can remove the oil filter cover, and the oil filter Keep these two “O” rings, you’ll need them for the remote kit Old oil filter. Toss it away; you’ll never need one again! Throw away the old filter, and carefully remove the orange and black “O” rings from the filter cover (see picture above). These two “O” rings will go on the new engine cap in the same order as on the old filter cover. “O” ring for bottom bolt. When the beauty cover and filter cover are removed, be sure not to lose the tiny “O” ring that the bottom bolt goes through. Preparing the Remote Oil Filter Kit Remove the orange and black “O” rings from the stock filter cover plate, and place them on the Remote Oil Filter Kit engine cap – black on the inside, orange on the outside – just like on the stock filter cover.

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Yamaha YZF-R1 and R6 TiForce slip on exhaust system REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 09-01-2012

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1. Remove the fairing lowers. 2. For R1 owners, please remove the existing exhaust system from the EXUP valve rearward (EXUP valve is retained) and set aside. Save the stock exhaust clamp for reuse. For R6 owners, please disconnect the stock S-bend from the rear of the collector and set aside. Save the stock exhaust clamp for reuse (new clamp provided). Save the stock end can mounting bolt for reuse as well. 3. R1 owners only -Inspect the exhaust gasket. Replace if necessary (gasket provided). 4. For R1 owners -Install the S-Bend to the rear of the EXUP valve, make sure the system fits flush. Reuse the stock exhaust clamp to connect the S-bend to the valve. For R6 owners -Install the TiForce S-bend to the rear of the stock head pipes and collector. Make sure the system fits flush and snug. Reuse the stock exhaust clamp or the provided clamp and loosely attach for now. 5. Install the TiForce end can to the S-bend tail pipe. 6. Loosely attach the two rubber bands, stainless steel bands (K), and stay to the end can using the supplied 6mm hardware (H) and the hanger / stay arm (G). See figure 1 for the assembly procedure. 7. R1 owners -Place the bands approximately 180mm from the edge of the end can. See figure 2. R6 owners -Place the bands approximately 195mm from the edge of the end can. See figure 2. 8. R1 owners -Using the stock provided mounting point on the passenger footpeg, use the M10x45mm bolt and hardware to mount the end can loosely, allowing for some adjustment. 9. Carefully align the two stainless bands so that theyare parallel to each other, and spaced properly on the can. Tighten the 6mm hardware (H). Make sure that the rubber pads fully cover the bands (K). USE CAUTION WHEN TIGHTENING THE 6MM HARDWARE AND THE TWO BANDS SO AS NOT TO CRUSH OR DISTORT THE SLEEVE OF THE CAN. 10. Using some brake and contact cleaner on a clean rag, carefully wipe down the entire TiForce exhaust system to remove any residual oils, anti seize, fingerprints and dirt prior to starting the motor. FAILURE TO CLEAN THE TUBING AND CAN MAY RESULT IN PERMANENT STAINING OF THE SYSTEM WHEN HEATED. 11. Attach the supplied springs to secure the end can to the S-bend pipe using a spring installation tool if available. Make sure the exhaust system is free and clear of the bike. If necessary, adjust for proper clearance. 12. Go back and tighten all fasteners. 13. Check that all fasteners are tightened per specifications, then start the motor and check for exhaust leaks. 14. Reinstall the fairing lowers.

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Honda CG125 Owners Manual, and repair manual

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 11-12-2011

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The author of this manual has the conviction that the only way in which a meaningful and easy to follow text can be
written is first to do the work himself, under conditions similar to those found in the average household. As a result, the hands seen in the photographs are those of the author. Even the machines are not new: examples that have covered a consider- able mileage were selected so that the conditions encountered would be typical of those found by the average owner. Unless specially mentioned, and therefore considered essential, Honda service tools have not been used. There is
invariably some alternative means of slackening or removing some vital component when service tools are not available and
isk of damage has to be avoided at all costs. Each of the six Chapters is divided into numbered Sections. Within the Sections are numbered paragraphs. In consequence, cross reference throughout this manual is both straightforward
and logical. When a reference is made ‘See Section 5.12′ it means Section 5, paragraph 12 in the same Chapter. If another
Chapter were meant, the text would read ‘See Chapter 2, Section 5.12′. All photographs are captioned with a Section/paragraph number to which they refer and are always relevant to the Chapter text adjacent. Figure numbers (usually line illustrations) appear in numerical order, within a given Chapter. Fig. 1.1 therefore refers o the first figure in Chapter 1. Left-hand and right-hand descriptions of the machines and their component parts refer to the right and left of a given machine when the rider is seated normally. Motorcycle manufacturers continually make changes to specifications and recommendations, and these, when notified,mare incorporated into our manuals at the earliest opportunity.
We take great pride in the accuracy of information given in this manual, but motorcycle manufacturers make alterations and design changes during the production run of a particular n motorcycle of which they do not inform us. No liability can be ccepted by the authors or publishers for loss, damage or injury caused by any errors in, or omissions from, the information give

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Honda Shadow A.C.E. v. Yamaha V-Star 1100 Middleweight Import Cruiser Shootout

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 25-11-2010

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You want a big cruiser but you don’t need a large 1500 cc behemoth that weighs close to half-a-ton fully loaded. You want something you can cruise down the boulevard on but you want to be able to handle a corner or two. You want classic styling but you insist on reliability as well. If these are your guidelines, then Honda and Yamaha might have what you’re looking for in the guise of the Honda Shadow American Classic Edition and Yamaha V-Star 1100. Shadow ACE 1100 The ACE and V-Star have a few things in common: Both sport requisite V-twin powerplants (75° for the V-Star and 45° for the ACE) and both possess typical Japanese refinement. Aside from these similarities, the two rides are very different machines. While both machines are shaft driven, the ACE uses the shaft housing as the swingarm. Although this arrangement is effective, it’s a bit lacking style-wise. However, the whitewall tires and the classic fenders and tank help to create a traditional design that turns heads when you’re out and about. The V-Star uses a different approach, utilizing a pivoting sub-frame design with a hidden mono-shock that keeps the lines fluid and consistent with the rest of the bike. Although this beast isn’t equipped with whitewall tires, it still cuts a graceful, glittering profile. The only flaw we noticed was the small headlight that

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2003 DCx65 Owners And Service Manual

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Filed Under (Cobra) by admin on 10-11-2010

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Dimensions Wheelbase 44.75″ (1136 mm) Wheel size 14″ (356 mm) front, 12″ (305 mm) rear Seat height Engine Type 2-stroke, single cylinder, reed valve Cooling system Liquid-cooled Displacement 64.8 cc (3.95 Cubic inches) Bore and stroke 43 mm x 44.6 mm Ignition system Electronic Spark plug Splitfire SF406B Gap 0.023″ – 0.025″ (0.58 – 0.64 mm) Fuel type Sunoco MO2 X or 93 octane pump gasoline OTHER RACE FUELS ARE NOT RECOMMENDED Oil type Cobra Venom 2-cycle Race Oil Fuel / oil mix ratios 32:1 to 40:1 Ignition timing 0.050″ Carburetion 28 mm PWK style Main jet 128 Slow (Pilot) jet 38 Jet needle JJH 3rd position from the top Float height 19 mm + 0.5mm (0.75″ + 0.020″) Transmission Speed Six speed Clutch Manual hydraulic Final drive ratio 13/46 T Transmission / clutch oil type 85W 90 Gear Lubricant Quantity 530 ml (18 oz) 6 Chassis Front tire 60/100 x 14 Pressure 10 – 15 psi. Rear tire 80/100 x 12 Pressure 10 – 15 psi. Front fork Cobra USD 35 mm Fork oil type SAE 5 weight Fork oil amount 4 oz (118 ml) Fork oil level Specifications – Torque Values Torque Value ENGINE Fastener ft-lb in-lb Nm Size & Remarks Cylinder head nuts 9.2 110 12 ¼” x 20 Engine oil drain 3 36 4 8 x 1.25 Engine oil fill 2 24 2.7 14 x 1.0 Spark Plug (SP) (SP) (SP) 14 x 1.25 Crank case half 5 60 6.8 6 x 1.0 Crank case cover 5 60 6.8 6 x 1.0 Flywheel rotor nut 40 480 54 10 x 1.25 (G) Clutch hub 40 480 54 10 x 1.25 (G) Units of mm unless otherwise specified (G) denotes the use of wicking / bearing retainer (green) thread locking agent to applied to the mating surfaces of the two components but not the threads. (SP) To apply the proper torque to the spark plug when inserting, one must first screw the spark plug in until the metal gasket ring causes resistance and then turn another 1/8 to ¼ turn.

YAMAHA V-STAR 1100 HYPERCHARGER AIRCLEANER INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 09-11-2010

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STEP 1 Remove the driver and passenger seats from the bike. Remove the negative battery cable from the battery and tuck it out of the way to reduce the possibility of sparks. STEP 2 Remove the two rear tank mounting bolts. Remove the plastic tank mounting snap stud. (Push in on the center of it to release). Slide the tank back to expose the top of the engine. Make sure the tank is solidly in place so it does not fall! You may remove the tank completely from the bike if you’re not certain the tank will stay in place while you are performing this installation. STEP 3 Remove the stock air cleaner cover, element, and backing plate. Twarrants that any Küryakyn product sold hereunder, if properly installed, maintained and operated under normal conditions, shall be free from any defects in materials and workmanship for a period of one (1) year from the date the Küryakyn products are sold to the customer. CONSEQUENTIAL DAMAGES: Küryakyn shall not be liable for any consequential or incidental damages. ABOUTOURCA TA LOG You’ll find all our innovations for H-D, GL and Metric Cruisers in our annual catalogs. Order online today-select the “CATALOGS” icon. Each Küryakyn™ product comes with a Proof-of-Purchase good for a complimentary catalog. Details in packaging. Be sure to ask your local dealer about other Küryakynproducts, the motorcycle parts and accessories designed for riders by riders. ©2003 Küryakyn USA™All Rights reserved. STEP 4 See PIC. 1and PIC.2. Remove the grommet from the bracket. STEP 5 Placing your long handled Phillips screwdriver as shown in PIC.3, loosen the clamp on the air duct and remove the duct. Remove the clamp from the duct— it will be reused. Now is a good time to proceed with rejetting of the carburetors. Consult your factory service manual for this procedure. We have supplied jets to cover most common applications. Jetting Recommendations: See FIG. 1for jet locations. With stock exhaust or Cobra Slip-On Mufflers • 1.2 Pilot Air Bleeds in both carbs • One .020 shim added to raise each needle • 122.5 Main Jet in the front cylinder’s carb • 120 Main Jet in the rear cylinder’s carb • Pilot Mixture Screw (PMS) 2 turns out from lightly bottomed With Vance & Hines, Samson, or open “Drag” pipes • 1.2 Pilot Air Bleeds in both carbs • One .020 shim added to raise each needle • 125 Main Jet in the front cylinder’s carb • 122.5 Main Jet in the rear cylinder’s carb • Pilot Mixture Screw (PMS) 2 turns out from lightly bottomed NOTES 1. The factory installed plug covering the PMS will have to be removed in order to access the screw. 2. Because the float bowl screws are easily damage during removal, we have included 8 replacement float bowl screws with socket heads, just in case they are needed. BE SURE TO VENT THE FLOAT BOWLS TO THE BACK OF THE HYPERCHARGER — THIS IS NECESSARY FOR BEST DRIVABILITY AND MAXIMUM PERFORMANCE!!!! (See Step 12.) STEP 6 See PIC.4. Insert both flanges of the rubber air duct through the opening in the mounting bracket. Place the Stock duct clamp on the new intake duct — the clamp screw should face forward.

Yamaha V-Star 1100 Custom and Classic cruisers Floorboard/ Footpeg Extension Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 09-11-2010

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Start on the right (brake) side. 1) Loosen the nut at the end of the brake rod. This will allow you to unscrew the brake rod from the brake lever clevis later. 2) Pull out the cotter pin and remove the pivot pin. Unscrew the clevis 3) Then using a 14mm socket or box-end wrench, remove the two bolts that hold the brake floorboard/footpeg assembly (whichever your bike has) to the frame. These bolts are torqued to 46 ft lbs, so this may be a bit difficult. 1. Loosen this nut 2. Remove the cotter pin (other side of this pivot pin) remove the pivot pin a unscrew the nut to remove the clevis nd 3. Remove these bolts When you remove the floorboard/footpeg bracket, be careful not to pull the brake switch wires loose. You may wish to cut the cable tie for more room, and then rest the bracket, with the footpeg or floorboard attached, on a short box, or block of wood, to keep it handy. Install the new brake rod, to the end of the existing brake rod. Re-install the pivot pin, and the pivot pin cotter pin. Installing the extension bar: Note that the extension bar is bolted so that it rises up in front. Use the new bolts to mount the floorboard/ footpeg bracket to the threaded holes in front. Install the Extension in the proper orientation (angled holes bolt up to the frame, with front of the bar higher than the rear – see photo) using the stock bolts for the extensions to the frame and the new bolts and washers supplied with the kit, on the forward threaded section to relocate the floorboard or footpeg bracket. The use of LocTite ® Blue here is recommended. At this point the right side Floorboard or Footpeg should be secured tightly and the brake lever hanging loose. Now install the Brake rod extension, threading the male end to the original brake rod. Don’t tighten this end yet Place the clevis over the forward most end of the brake rod extension, and threat the clevis nut onto the end of the rod. Bring the brake rod upright, to meet with the clevis at the end of the brake rod extension and replace the pivot pin. Before reinstalling the cotter pin, check the angle of the brake lever, to insure that you have the brake pedal where you want. If necessary, adjust the extension rod in or out, until you are satisfied, and then reinstall the cotter pin into the pivot pin. Check the Brake switch wire and install a new cable tie if required. Note: Due to utilizing a thicker material, 1/2″ versus 3/8″ from our competitor, the Brake rod is now positioned at a greater angle. Even with the angle, braking performance is not affected, but if you wish to bring the master cylinder in line with the brake rod, do this. Loosen the rear, and remove the front Allen bolt. Then place two washers behind the front bolt, under the bracket, and then re-install the bolts To change the angle of the brake rod, 1) loosen and remove the two master cylinder bracket Allen bolts 2) insert two washers behind the front bolt (front of the bike), behind the master cylinder bracket 3) tighten both bolts. Do not install any washers on the rear mounting hole. This will make the angle of the Brake Rod less aggressive. Step Two – Left Side For the left (Shifter) side, 1) use an open-end 10 mm wrench, to unscrew the two nuts that hold the shift rod in place. PLEASE note that one end of the shift rod has a left hand threaded nut. SAVE the nuts, as you will need them on the new longer Polished Stainless Steel Shift Rod. 2) Remove the stock shift rod. 3) Then using a 14mm socket or box-end wrench, remove the two bolts that hold the shifter floorboard/footpeg assembly (whichever your bike has) to the frame.

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YAMAHA V-STAR 650/ 1100 CLASSIC F ATS/ SLIMS MOUNTING KIT INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 10-11-2010

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1. Cover gas tank and front fender with towels to avoid damage during installation. 2. Install the two mounting plates onto the windshield, using the bottom and third bolt up. Leave the nylon washers off. The small tab goes to the bottom, big one at the top. (see Figure 1) Tabs face out away from the headlight when installed correctly. 3. Remove the headlight lens and chrome Turn Signal Bar cover and set them in a safe place. (see figure 2) 4. Remove the (3) socket head cap screws that hold the Headlight housing and let it rest carefully so that it does not fall. 5. Remove the turn signal bar by extracting the two socket head cap screws and let it dangle. (see figure 2) 6. Loosely install the throttle-side Bracket and Headlight using one of the (3) new longer 6mm x 30mm socket head cap screws. The nylon washer goes in between Headlight Housing and Headlight Bracket. (see figure 3) Install one of the (2) new 8mm x 45mm SS flat head screw and spacer in the lower hole to mount the turn signal bar. Insert the bolt in this order: bolt – windshield bracket – spacer – turn signal bar, and loosely tighten . (see Figure 3) Repeat these steps for the Clutch side. (See figure 4 for optional Cobra Light Bar installation, or to move Turn Signals forward to mount Lowers closer to the windshield.) 7. Once both windshield brackets are in place and all the new bolts are in place, Tighten all bolts. Re-install the chrome Turn Signal Bar cover. (Leave the chrome cover off if you use the alternate installation for Light Bar or Lowers). Re-Install the Headlight lens. 8. Loosen the (4) anchor bolts on the side of the windshield brackets. Slip the windshield mounting plates onto the brackets starting with the upper slot first then slip the bottom slot in. Adjust height, angle and tighten all bolts. This is a quick change kit. ALWAYS tighten all mounting bolts after removing or installing the windshield

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Yamaha V-Star 1100 Jetting the Carburetors INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 11-03-2012

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Remove air filter housing Remove the seat or seats Disconnect Fuel Lines (also the vapor line from tank to charcoal canister on California models) Disconnect instrument connectors from the fuel tank Remove fuel tank Remove air box Disconnect TPS and heater connectors Remove chrome carb cover Disconnect Fuel Lines Remove rubber carb elbows Disconnect throttle cables from carbs Remove the carbs Perform the jetting 1. Remove the Chrome air filter housing. To remove the chrome dog-dish (air filter housing) from the right side of the bike, you will need to remove the two mounting bolts and loosen the clamp that holds the air duct to the back of the housing. You will need a 5 mm Allen wrench and a #2 Philips screwdriver. 2. Remove the seats. This can be accomplished by using a 5 mm Allen wrench and removing the Allen head bolt from just behind the rear seat and the bolt just behind the front seat. Pulling up and back will free the seats. One smooth motion will do it. 3. Gain access to the dashboard plug and unplug it (It is white) Note: Your trip odometer will lose its count, please record the number if you wish to save your current mileage for this tank of gas. Figure A shows the three plastic rivets that need to be removed to gain access to the dashboard plug. Using your Philips head screwdriver, press the small circle in the middle of the rivets down… a click is felt. Remove the rivets by hand. You have freed the cover and you may lift it up to expose the electrical connector that needs to be unplugged. Figure B shows the plug

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