pep steering stabilizer instructions

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Steering Stem Nut Installation Instructions & Owners Manual

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 26-11-2010

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Sport Bike Damper Kit Installation Instructions DISCLAIMER: All GPR Sport Bike damper kits are manufactured to be used ONLY w/ the stock top triple clamp and frame. If either is modded, aftermarket or crash damaged, the kit will not install properly and GPR will not be held responsible for the consequences of improper installation due to this or any other improper mounting or modifying. The provided instructions must be followed precisely, as failure to do so can result in the GPR damper kit being installed incorrectly. An improper installation may lead to a variety of undesirable steering problems. Please take your time and carefully follow the installation instructions. As always, give us a call if you have any questions, we’re more than happy to assist you in getting the damper kit mounted on your bike properly 1. Remove the stock Steering Stem Nut (SSN) and washer from the stock top triple clamp steering stem. Carefully set the stock nut aside, as you may be using it later. Bikes requiring a specific GPR SSN to replace the stock SSN are listed at the end of this installation sheet. If your bike is on the chart, throw you stock SSN in the toolbox along w/ the washer, as you may need it at a later date if for any reason you need to remove the GPR kit from your bike. Stock SSN’s that are either ‘domed’ at the top or ‘flanged’ at the bottom will definitely NOT work, may lead to problems and should NOT be reinstalled during the baseplate installation. See #2 below for further instructions about both SSN/Steering stem and arm clearance issues 2. With the stock SSN and washer removed, place the GPR Baseplate over the steering stem on the top triple clamp and reinstall either the stock SSN or the GPR SSN provided. Torque SSN down to the recommended specs as per the owner’s manual for your particular bikes make and model. NEVER reinstall the stock washer that came on the bike! The baseplate is now your new washer. If you do accidentally use the stock washer, the arm on the stabilizer will most likely ‘rub’ on the nut. It will be too high, potentially locking the steering and handlebars, thus making your bike un steerable and unridable. DO NOT ride your bike until all installation steps have been completed and you can visually verify that there is clearance between the arm of the stabilizer and the steering stem and/or SSN. Once the installation is complete, at the #1 setting you

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STEERING GEAR/ STEERING WHEEL REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION

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Filed Under (Uncategorized) by admin on 05-10-2011

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TEERING GEAR/STEERING WHEEL REMOVAL & INSTALLATION Page 3 of 4 STEERING GEAR/STEERING WHEEL INSTALLATION PROCEDURES (Cont’d) 2. Center spiral cable. a. Turn the cable counterclockwise by hand until it becomes harder to turn. b. Then rotate the cable clockwise about 2.5 or 3 turns to align the marks. (See Fig. 4) 3. Install the steering wheel. a. Align the matchmarks on the wheel and steering main shaft. b. Temporarily tighten the wheel set nut. c. Connect the spiral cable connector. 4. Bleed Power Steering System (when applicable). 5. Check steering wheel center point. 6. Torque steering wheel set nut. See the applicable vehicle’s repair manual for the torque specification. 7. Install and center steering wheel pad. NOTICE: Make sure the pad is centered and installed to the specified torque. If the pad has been dropped, or there are cracks, dents or other defects in the case or connector, replace the wheel pad with a new one. When installing the pad, take care that the wiring does not interfere with other parts and is not pinched between other parts. a) Connect the airbag wiring connector. b) Install the pad after confirming that torx screws are in the screw case. c) Using a torx socket, torque the screws to the specification in the vehicle’s Repair Manual. (See Fig. 5) d) Install the steering wheel lower cover

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HARLEY DAVIDSON STEERING HEAD WASHER KIT INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 05-02-2011

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INSTALLATION The rider’s safety depends upon the correct installation of this kit. Use the appropriate service manual procedures. If the procedure is not within your capabilities or you do not have the correct tools, have a Harley-Davidson dealer perform the installation. Improper installation of this kit could result in death or serious injury. (00333a) NOTE This instruction sheet references Service Manual information. A Service Manual for your model motorcycle is required for this installation and is available from a Harley-Davidson Dealer. 1. See Figure 1. Remove the fork stem cap (1). Bend the lockwasher (2) tab away from the steering stem nut (3) and remove the fork stem nut and lockwasher. Discard the lockwasher. NOTE Always tighten the steering stem nut (3) to 70 – 80 ft-lbs (95 – 109 Nm) before measuring fall away. Lubricate threads of nut with a small amount of clean engine oil. Avoid applying oil to the mating surfaces of the steering stem nut (3) and the new hardened washer from the kit. 2. Install the new hardened washer from the kit (2) and steering stem nut (3). Tighten steering stem nut (3) to 70 – 80 ft-lbs (95 – 109 Nm). 3. Check fall away following the instructions in STEERING HEAD BEARINGS BEARING ADJUSTMENT (FALLAWAY) in an appropriate Service Manual, however, tighten the steering stem nut (3) to 70 – 80 ft-lbs . Adjust adjusting nut (5), if necessary per instructions. 4. Install fork stem cap (1).

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Tacoma Power Steering Pump Improving Power Steering Reservoir modification

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Filed Under (Toyota Manuals) by admin on 02-10-2011

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For my SAS I decided to add hydraulic steering assist as it comes in real handy for rock crawling. I got the Redneck Ram setup from the folks at West Texas Off-road that includes rebuilding an earlier IFS steering box along with drilling and tapping the box for the included ram. One of the down sides of adding a ram is that it slows the steering down because the stock steering pump has to supply the added volume for the hydraulic ram. Another is that it creates a fluid volume change in the system reservoir that needs to be compensated for in some way. After doing some reading on the West Texas site about how to go about modifying a Saginaw pump and reading up on earlier Toyota pump mods for steering assist setups on the Pirate board, I decided to give it whirl and see what I could do about the Tacoma pump. Chuck Gardella was kind enough to supply me with a blown pump that I could rebuild and submit to my endless fiddling and tinkering. I plan to give him my pump in return when I get this one done and installed. You need to do something to allow for more room in the reservoir for the standard hydraulic ram assist setup so I decided to tackle the reservoir first. The reason you need the extra space is because the ram is unbalanced. That is there is a rod on one side of the cylinder and not on the other side so the volume of the fluid has to change in the system to account for the volume of the rod as it travels back and forth. I calculated the volume of the rod that I have at full stroke to be about 2 oz or so. This would equate to plus or minus up to 2 oz. in the pump reservoir. Well first off, it’s no wonder why so many folks boil their steering pumps over with heavy wheeling and have so many other steering problems. The stock power steering reservoir doesn’t even rate pint sized

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Toyota Power Steering Conversion Kit Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Toyota Manuals) by admin on 04-10-2011

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Remove the stock steering box and column. Be sure to clear the area of all wiring, brake lines and fuel lines. 2. Bolt the Toyota box to the mounting bracket so that the long arm of the bracket points in the same direction as the steering column input shaft (small shaft.) To mount the bracket and box correctly, the longer end should be towards the rear of the vehicle. It may be necessary to grind on the power steering box where the two flanges protrude above the bracket. For technical help call Classic Performance Products Monday thru Friday 8:30am to 5:00pm at (714) 522-2000. Rev. 8/17/2009 3. Locate the box/bracket assembly into the frame by centering the Toyota sector shaft through the original hole in the frame. This hole will need to be elongated approximately 3/8″ to allow the sector shaft to clear the frame. Bolt the bracket directly into the mounting holes for the original steering box. 4. With the first bolt in, check the fit by reattaching the steering box. Make sure the splined shaft goes through the frame without interference. Torque down the mounting bolts to 45 lbs. 5. Attach the pitman arm to the steering box. Before this is done the steering sector must be centered. Turn the input shaft clockwise as far as it can go. Make a reference mark. Now turn the shaft counter clockwise as far it can go and be sure to count the turns. Turn the shaft back half the distance and now the box is centered. Be sure to double and triple check this procedure. Attach the pitman arm to the output shaft with the output shaft nut. Torque the bolt down to 110ft/lbs. Reconnect the stock drag link and you are on your way

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1953 Toyota Ford Truck Power Steering Conversion Kit Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Toyota Manuals) by admin on 01-10-2011

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of all wiring, brake lines and fuel lines. 2. Bolt the Toyota box to the mounting bracket so that the long arm of the bracket points in the same direction as the steering column input shaft (small shaft.) To mount the bracket and box correctly, the longer end should be towards the rear of the vehicle. It may be necessary to grind on the power steering box where the two flanges protrude above the bracket. For technical help call Classic Performance Products Monday thru Friday 8:30am to 5:00pm at (714) 522-2000. Rev. 8/17/2009 3. Locate the box/bracket assembly into the frame by centering the Toyota sector shaft through the original hole in the frame. This hole will need to be elongated approximately 3/8″ to allow the sector shaft to clear the frame. Bolt the bracket directly into the mounting holes for the original steering box. 4. With the first bolt in, check the fit by reattaching the steering box. Make sure the splined shaft goes through the frame without interference. Torque down the mounting bolts to 45 lbs. 5. Attach the pitman arm to the steering box. Before this is done the steering sector must be centered. Turn the input shaft clockwise as far as it can go. Make a reference mark. Now turn the shaft counter clockwise as far it can go and be sure to count the turns. Turn the shaft back half the distance and now the box is centered. Be sure to double and triple check this procedure. Attach the pitman arm to the output shaft with the output shaft nut. Torque the bolt down to 110ft/lbs. Reconnect the stock drag link and you are on your wa

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Harley Davidson Steering Wheel Radio Control Interface Installation instructions

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 03-05-2012

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1) Turn on the ignition to supply power to the SWI-3. 2) Use a pen to depress the “program mode” button. Remove pen when left LED light comes on. 3) Within 10 seconds press and hold one of the steering wheel function buttons. Continue to hold steering wheel button until the left LED turns off. Release the steering wheel button and the right LED turns on. 4) Place the stereo’s IR remote within 3″ of the “IR Input” port on the side of the SWI-3 next to the program button. Press and hold the remote’s button that corresponds to the steering wheel button that was pressed. Continue to hold the remote’s button until the right LED turns off. Release the button and the left LED will turn on. 5) Repeat steps 3 and 4 until all radio steering wheel functions are programmed. 6) When programming is complete, wait 10 seconds and both LED’s will flash 3 times. This indicates an automatic program exit. Do not stop more than 10 seconds while programming or there will be an automatic program exit and you will have to start over at step number 2 above. Turning off ignition before the automatic exit will require starting over at step 2 above. The SWI-3 can be reprogrammed unlimited times. Testing • Test the SWI-3 by holding it’s infrared LED (LED on the end of 4′ lead) close to the stereo and verify that it works properly. Experiment with various locations for the LED. You should be able to find a hidden and convenient mounting location. Try along the top front and /or bottom of the stereo as well as it’s sides. The LED can be replaced with most any IR LED, like Radio Shack’s # 276-143. The longest lead of the LED connects to the red wire of the 4′ cable and the short lead of the LED connects to the black wire of the 4′ cable

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Motorcycle Derived Steering / Suspension Systems

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 29-11-2010

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1. Examine the handlebars and fork yokes. 2. Turn the steering from lock to lock with the steered wheel both on a turning plate and clear of the ground. Cont’d Reason for Rejection 1. A handlebar or fork yoke a. deformed b. fractured c. cracked d. excessively corroded e. clamps not tight, or any bolt loose or missing f. handgrips missing or not secure to handlebars g. handlebar flexible mounting excessively deteriorated. 2. a. any fouling or restriction of the free movement of the steering from lock to lock b. handlebar grip/s or handlebar mounted control/s have no clearance with any other part of the machine when the steering is placed on either full lock c. steering movement excessively stiff or rough Reason for Rejection 5 does not apply to fork gaiters or shrouds. . Cont’d Method of Inspection 3. Examine the steering damper. 4. Examine the steering head bearings. 5. Examine the front fork assembly. Cont’d Reason for Rejection 3. A steering damper a. insecure b. ineffective c. impairing the steering action. 4. Excessive free play in the steering head bearings. 5. A fork assembly component which is a. missing b. loose c. cracked d. excessively bent, misaligned, corroded, worn, or has excessive free play between the sliding members of the forks, the pivot bearings or bushes e. restricted in operation f. fouling

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KAWASAKI MULE Electric Steering Installation Manual And Removal

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 05-05-2012

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Remove plastic center cap on steering wheel by prying off with a small screwdriver. Remove steering wheel nut and remove steering wheel by pulling up on wheel. If wheel is tight have a partner tap on the shaft while pulling up on wheel. Note: Do not mushroom threads on shaft. Remove all screws that retain dash to body of vehicle. Disconnect all electrical connections at back of dash. Mark all wires to ensure easy install. Remove lower steering shaft bolt at rack and pinion. Remove upper bolt at base of steering column. Remove the 2 bolts that retain the steering column to the frame and remove the column and the shaft assembly. Remove lower u-joint on steering column shaft & replace it with supplied u-joint. There is a welded wire retainer on the lower dash tube where the electric motor will sit. You will need to grind off this piece and smooth. Remove the master cylinder bolt closest to the driver side and discard bolt. Your motor and module has been shipped together bolted to the bracket. It is important to follow the install sequence to ensure a proper installation. The lower shaft on the steering motor is marked on the shaft and on the motor. These marks must not be changed. If you remove the shaft it needs to be installed back in the same spot.

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Toyota and Lexus Clogged Power Steering Reservoir Filter

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Filed Under (Toyota Manuals) by admin on 02-10-2011

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Clogged Power Steering Reservoir Filter – Toyota & Lexus Toyota and Lexus vehicles with power steering. Noise coming from the power steering pump or reduced assist from the power steering system. Noise or reduced assist may be caused by restriction in the power steering fluid reservoir. Most Toyota/Lexus-style reservoirs have a filter screen at the bottom. Over a period of time this filter could get clogged causing the restriction of fluid. Replace any hose that shows signs of cracking or internal deterioration. Thoroughly flush the power steering system; then remove the reservoir for cleaning as follows: 1. Clean the exterior and interior of reservoir with new power steering fluid or suitable solvent. 2. Blow off the filter screen using pressurized air until restriction or clog is removed. 3. Using a flashlight, check to make sure that the filter screen is free of debris. Note: Contamination may be an indication of internal breakdown of hoses, which must be replaced before operating the vehicle. Failure to replace bad hoses could damage both the pump and steering unit. 4. Reinstall reservoir, referring to the service manual for tightening specs and bleeding procedures.

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