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2006-up Harley-Davidson Single Bore Induction System Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 10-11-2010

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Remove the stock fuel induction system, including the manifold and disconnecting all wire connections. It is up to the technician as to whether the gas tank should be removed or just raised up in the rear. Picture 1 2- You will need to disassemble the stock induction system to remove the pre-listed parts for re-use. 3- Verify the new manifold size is appropriate for your motorcycle by sliding it in place. Picture 2 Picture 3 4 5- Slide the MAP sensor in place, being sure not to pinch the orange rubber seal—some clean engine oil may make this easier. Install the cable guide and verify it is aligned with the throttle cable actuator. Once alignment is satisfactory, apply Loctite® 222 to the 10-24 x 1/4″ screws and tighten to 18-22 in-lbs. 4- Install the new O-ring into the throttle body. A light film of clean engine oil can be used to help hold the O-ring in place. Align the manifold to the throttle body, use purple 222 Loctite® on the 10-24 x 1″ socket-head assembly screws (with flat washers) and tighten them to 35-40 in-lbs. 6- Using the new S&S® supplied gasket, slide the S&S supplied intake air temperature (IAT) sensor in place. Use Loctite 222 on the T10 Torx button head M3 x .5 x 10mm screws and tighten to 6-8 in-lbs. Picture 4 Picture 5 Picture 6 5 7- For the stock throttle position sensor attach the “C” shaped spacer to the end of the throttle shaft, put a 4mm flat washer on each T20 Torx button head M4 x .7 x 12mm screw, apply some Loctite® 222 and torque screws to 18-23 in-lbs. 8- Install the new O-ring on the IAC motor. Lubricate the OD of the O-ring with a light film of clean engine oil. Put a 4mm flat washer on each T20 Torx button head M4 x .7 x 12mm screw, coat the threads with Loctite 222. Install the IAC motor and tighten the screws to 18-23 in-lbs. 9- Partially install the fuel injectors in the fuel rail. Be sure to orient the black O-rings to the rail and align the clocking tabs with their holes. It may be helpful to lubricate the O-rings with clean engine oil. See Picture 9. NOTE : These are special O-rings that seal pressurized gasoline. If you see one with damage or an abrasion—replace it immediately. Picture 7 Picture 8 Picture 9 6 10- Connect the Injectors to the manifold with a light squeezing action. Lubricate the O-rings with clean engine oil. Once in place, use Loctite® 222 on the threads of two 8-32 x 5/8″ slotted panhead screws and tighten to 15-20 in-lbs. 11- Install the backing washer and O-ring on the fuel supply tube. Lubricate the O-ring with clean engine oil. When the tube is in place, position the Y-shaped clip on the fuel rail and tighten the Loctite 222 coated T20 Torx button head M4 x 7 x 12mm screw to 18-23 in-lbs – Gently push the injectors downward toward the manifold to increase clearance for connecting the wire connectors. Cut the existing injector connectors from the motorcycle harness. Slide the sleeveing onto the injector harness. Slide heat shrink tubing on to each wire of the injector harness wires. Crimp the butt splices to the motorcycle harness. Move the heat shrinks over the splices and shrink with a heat gun. Slide the sleeve into place. Picture 10 Picture 11a Picture 11b Picture 12 Picture 12a 7 13- Put the stock manifold flanges on the manifold. YOU MUST USE THE S&S® RUBBER GASKETS ON THEM. Be sure to orient the tapered end towards the manifold and the flat end to the heads. 14- Hold the manifold up in its basic mounting position and connect all of the wiring harness connectors at this time. Install the manifold using the stock mounting flange bolts (from the primary side of the motorcycle) coated with Loctite® 242 and the new S&S cam side screws (1/4″ socket head, 5/16-18 x 3/4″). If a screw longer than 3/4″ is used, damage to the heads will result. Lightly snug all four manifold mounting bolts but DO NOT TIGHTEN AT THIS TIME. Connect the throttle cables and cruise control bracket (if applicable) at this time. NOTE: The Harley-Davidson® service manual for your model motorcycle will be helpful during this step. 15- Install the breather system now. On 4.00-inch bore or smaller engines the breather uses banjo fittings with hollow bolts and connects across the heads to the intake with a T-hose. This hose will need to be trimmed and have spring clamps attached as shown in photo. Torque the hollow bolts to 10-12 ft-lbs. On 41/8-inch bore or larger engines, install the sharp bent hose on the rear head and install the check valve with the white end towards the head. Mount the other hose on the black end of the check valve and connect it to the throttle body using spring clamps to secure the connections. Picture 13 Picture 14 Picture 15 8 16- Once the breathers are secure, install the fuel line per the factory service manual you are working with. Connect the battery and verify the fuel pump turns on to pressurize the system and there are no gas leaks, but DO NOT START THE ENGINE. At this time, PC software may also be used to verify sensor readings and adjust the throttle position sensor voltage if necessary. 17- Install two 242 Loctite® coated pipe plugs (included in kit) in the air cleaner backplate as shown in Picture 16. Torque to 35-45 in-lbs. Also, two pan screws coated with Loctite® 222 must be installed in the backplate in place of the enrichment device. See Picture 16a. Torque them to 12-18 in-lbs. Failure to install these screws could allow dirt and debris into the intake system. 18- Use a new gasket on the backplate and put it in place noting the number of shims required. Once you select the appropriate shims (included) mount the backing plate to the engine but DO NOT INSTALL THE SCREWS YET

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2003-2007 Victory Motorcycles Installation Instructions for S&S Freedom Performance Tuner

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Filed Under (Victory) by admin on 31-10-2010

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Once the download of S&S Freedom Performance Tuner has been installed on your PC, double click the icon on your desk top. Picture 3 illustrates the S&S Freedom Performance Tuner icon. 2- Enter in your Username and Password and click the login button. Your Username and Password for logging in will be the same as your login for Picture 1 Picture 2 Picture 3 3 3 – Once you’re logged onto S&S® Freedom® Performance Tuner, click on the Year and Model of the bike you’re performing the work on in the middle of the page as illustrated in Picture 4. 4 – Click on the Select Vehicle tab at the bottom of the page as illustrated in Picture 5. The tabs on the left side of the page will now be illuminated. Picture 4 Picture 5 4 5- Click on the ECU Reprogramming tab on the left side of the screen as illustrated in Picture 6. 6- In the center of the screen you will now be prompted to enter in customer information, VIN number of the motorcycle you are performing calibration download on, and calibration card number. Select a re-flash file from the drop down list that you want to download into the motorcycle. All the fields must be filled out for you to continue with the download. Picture 7 illustrates the information screen with required fields filled out. Picture 6 Picture 7 5 Note: Due to the limited description space available in the drop down list in S&S® Freedom® Performance Tuner, a detailed list of available calibrations and part numbers can be viewed on the S&S dealer web. Go to ® Calibrations on the left side of the home page. Here you will find a detailed list of calibrations and part numbers for reference only. Picture 8 illustrates the home page and location for the S&S/Victory Calibrations. Picture 9 illustrates the calibrations for reference

S&S Super E and G Series "Shorty" Carburetors REMOVAL, Installation and Jetting Instructions

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Filed Under (S&S) by admin on 29-10-2010

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Remove Old Carburetor WARNINGS ● Gasoline is extremely flammable and explosive under certain conditions. Do not smoke around gasoline. Gasoline fumes are toxic when inhaled. Perform installation in a well ventilated area away from open flames or sparks. Any gasoline leak or spill constitutes a health and fire hazard. ● If motorcycle has been running, wait until engine and exhaust have cooled to avoid getting burned during installation. ● Electrical sparks can ignite explosive gasoline fumes. Failure to disconnect battery while working on motorcycle can also result in inadvertent engagement of starter and personal injury. A. Shut off fuel petcock and disconnect battery. B. Remove air cleaner assembly. Drain fuel from existing carburetor. Remove carburetor, manifold, choke cable and any carburetor mounting hardware NOTE – Removing and tightening hard to reach Allen bolts such as carb-manifold mounting bolts and V2 manifold flange bolts can be greatly simplified by the use of Allen ball-end drivers. These tools are available at most automotive and tool supply houses. See Picture 9. Additionally, Performance Plus of Evansville, Indiana, produces a hex wrench specially modified for accessibility of V 2 manifold bolts. Call 812-963-8854 for further information. As alternative, standard hex wrench can be shortened for convenience. NOTE – Some Buell motorcycles have a breather fitting with 90° elbow on rear head. Due to proximity of frame, elbow must be removed before fitting can be taken off engine. Loosen fitting and rotate to position convenient for cutting elbow. Secure fitting by tightening against cylinder head. Elbow may be inaccessible to hacksaw. In most instances, a die grinder with cutoff wheel will remove elbow with little difficulty. If die grinder is unavailable, grasp elbow firmly with pliers and snap off, then remove fitting. CAUTION – Extreme care must be taken to prevent metal chips from entering engine when elbow is removed. S&S recommends packing breather fitting with gease before removing elbow. Metal chips inside engine will cause extensive damage. Installer bears all responsibility for containment of chips and other debris. Picture 2 Picture 4 Picture 3
5 2. Prepare Air Cleaner Backplate NOTE – Fast idle lever screws, part #11-2384, must not be overtightened. Loctite or other thread locking compound may be used sparingly on threads to prevent screws from vibrating loose. CAUTION – Overtightening fast idle screws may damage backplate. A. All engines except V2s 1. Knuckles & Pans, 1936 to 1965 – Press plugs, part #50-8312, into holes in air cleaner backplate. See Picture 2 . 2. Shovels, 1966 to 1979, and Ironhead (IH) XLs, 1957 to 1979 – Press plug, part #50-8312, into hole in air cleaner backplate. See Picture 3 . 3. Shovels 1980 to 1984 and IH XLs 1980 to 1985 – Screw crankcase breather vent elbow fitting, part #50-8110, into hole in air cleaner backplate and angle downward as shown in Picture 4 . On 1983 and 1984 Shovels press plug, part #50-8312, into other hole on left. 4. Assemble fast idle mechanism as shown in Figure A . B. FL V2s 1984 to 1992 1. Press plug, part #50-8312, into hole on left in air cleaner backplate as shown in Picture 5 . 2. Screw vent hose elbow fitting, part #50-8110, into remaining hole at right. See Picture 5 . 3. Assemble fast idle mechanism as shown in Figure A . C. XL V2s 1986 to 1990 1. Press plug, part #50-8312, into hole on right in air cleaner backplate as shown in Picture 6 . 2. Screw vent hose nipple fitting, part #50-8111, into remaining hole at left. See Picture 6 . Elbow fitting, part #50-8110, supplied in kit may also be used in this location if required. 3. Assemble fast idle mechanism as shown in Figure A . D. FL V2s 1993 and up and XL V2s 1991 and up 1. Press plugs, part #50-8312, into both holes in air cleaner backplate as shown in Picture 7 . 2. Assemble fast idle mechanism as shown in Figure A . E. Buell motorcycles, 1994 and up 1. Assemble fast idle mechanism as shown in Figure A. 3. Throttle Preparation NOTE – Throttle grip assembly must be assembled correctly and work freely to prevent possible sticking during operation. Throttle must snap closed when released. Cable routing must be free of tight bends to minimize friction between cable and housing

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The Honda VTX 1300 Keyless Ignition Switch Installation instructions

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 04-11-2011

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Remove the seat from the motorcycle.2. Lift the ignition module off of the battery cover and let it drape over the side of the motorcycle. 3. Remove the battery cover and disconnect the negative battery cable. 4. Remove the gas tank and set it aside. There is a vent line at the right rear of the tank, a vacuum line and the gas feed line on the left side of the tank at the petcock, and two speedometer connectors at the left front of the gas tank. 5. Remove the clip from the top of the steering head cover and remove the right hand side cover. See picture at right. 6. Remove the headlight to expose the wiring connectors inside the headlight shell. 7. Remove the left-hand side cover. On the left side of the frame is an electrical wire shroud wire tied to the left side of the frame with a reusable wire tie. Inside this cover is the 3-pin connector that connects the ignition switch to the bike’s wiring harness. Pull the small lever back to release the wire tie and remove the wire tie. Pull back the wire shroud to reveal the wire connectors inside. Disconnect the 3-pin connector that comes from the ignition switch. Remove the two bolts holding the ignition switch to the bike’s frame. See Picture at right. Remove the ignition switch from the bike. You may have to remove the connector body from the ignition switch wires to slide the wires through the frame when removing the ignition switch. You may now reinstall the side cover. 8. Lay the new wiring harness along the backbone of the bike with the two 9-pin connectors at the headlight and the 6-pin and 3-pin connectors at the battery. Insert the two 9-pin connectors through the large hole in the back of the headlight shell. Inside the headlight shell is a red 9-pin connector. Disconnect this red 9-pin connector and insert the new wiring harness connecting each side to the red 9-pin connectors. See picture at right

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Yamaha V-Star 1100 Custom and Classic cruisers Floorboard/ Footpeg Extension Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 09-11-2010

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Start on the right (brake) side. 1) Loosen the nut at the end of the brake rod. This will allow you to unscrew the brake rod from the brake lever clevis later. 2) Pull out the cotter pin and remove the pivot pin. Unscrew the clevis 3) Then using a 14mm socket or box-end wrench, remove the two bolts that hold the brake floorboard/footpeg assembly (whichever your bike has) to the frame. These bolts are torqued to 46 ft lbs, so this may be a bit difficult. 1. Loosen this nut 2. Remove the cotter pin (other side of this pivot pin) remove the pivot pin a unscrew the nut to remove the clevis nd 3. Remove these bolts When you remove the floorboard/footpeg bracket, be careful not to pull the brake switch wires loose. You may wish to cut the cable tie for more room, and then rest the bracket, with the footpeg or floorboard attached, on a short box, or block of wood, to keep it handy. Install the new brake rod, to the end of the existing brake rod. Re-install the pivot pin, and the pivot pin cotter pin. Installing the extension bar: Note that the extension bar is bolted so that it rises up in front. Use the new bolts to mount the floorboard/ footpeg bracket to the threaded holes in front. Install the Extension in the proper orientation (angled holes bolt up to the frame, with front of the bar higher than the rear – see photo) using the stock bolts for the extensions to the frame and the new bolts and washers supplied with the kit, on the forward threaded section to relocate the floorboard or footpeg bracket. The use of LocTite ® Blue here is recommended. At this point the right side Floorboard or Footpeg should be secured tightly and the brake lever hanging loose. Now install the Brake rod extension, threading the male end to the original brake rod. Don’t tighten this end yet Place the clevis over the forward most end of the brake rod extension, and threat the clevis nut onto the end of the rod. Bring the brake rod upright, to meet with the clevis at the end of the brake rod extension and replace the pivot pin. Before reinstalling the cotter pin, check the angle of the brake lever, to insure that you have the brake pedal where you want. If necessary, adjust the extension rod in or out, until you are satisfied, and then reinstall the cotter pin into the pivot pin. Check the Brake switch wire and install a new cable tie if required. Note: Due to utilizing a thicker material, 1/2″ versus 3/8″ from our competitor, the Brake rod is now positioned at a greater angle. Even with the angle, braking performance is not affected, but if you wish to bring the master cylinder in line with the brake rod, do this. Loosen the rear, and remove the front Allen bolt. Then place two washers behind the front bolt, under the bracket, and then re-install the bolts To change the angle of the brake rod, 1) loosen and remove the two master cylinder bracket Allen bolts 2) insert two washers behind the front bolt (front of the bike), behind the master cylinder bracket 3) tighten both bolts. Do not install any washers on the rear mounting hole. This will make the angle of the Brake Rod less aggressive. Step Two – Left Side For the left (Shifter) side, 1) use an open-end 10 mm wrench, to unscrew the two nuts that hold the shift rod in place. PLEASE note that one end of the shift rod has a left hand threaded nut. SAVE the nuts, as you will need them on the new longer Polished Stainless Steel Shift Rod. 2) Remove the stock shift rod. 3) Then using a 14mm socket or box-end wrench, remove the two bolts that hold the shifter floorboard/footpeg assembly (whichever your bike has) to the frame.

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HARLEY DAVIDSON FLHT OIL PRESSURE AND AIR TEMPERATURE GAUGE KIT INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 08-02-2011

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INSTALLATION Oil Pressure Sending Unit To prevent accidental vehicle start-up, which could cause death or serious injury, disconnect negative (-) battery cable before proceeding. (00048a) 1. Refer to the Service Manual and follow the instructions given to remove the seat and disconnect the battery cables, negative (-) cable first. 1 2 3 4 is04574 1. Oil pressure sending unit 2. Cam position sensor 3. Crank position sensor 4. Main harness to ECM Figure 1. Electrical Bracket: 2000-2001 Fuel Injected Models (Magnetti-Marelli) 1 2 3 is04575 1. Oil pressure sending unit 2. Crankshaft position sensor 3. P&A siren kit Figure 2. Electrical Bracket (ECM Removed) 2002-2003 Fuel Injected Models (Delphi) -J01875 1 of 4 NOTE For 2002 to 2003 models: See Figure 2. Remove the two screws securing the ECM and remove the ECM to access the electrical bracket. 2. For 2004 and later models: Proceed to the Gauges section. For 2000 to 2003 models: See Figure 1, Figure 2 and Figure 3 for the applicable model and locate the sensor harness connector (2-piece mini-Deutsch® connector). 3 2 4 1 is04576 1. Ignition harness 2. Cam position sensor 3. Oil pressure sending unit 4. Crankshaft position sensor Figure 3. Ignition Module – Carbureted Models 3. Locate the oil pressure sending unit at the front right side of the crankcase and pull wire socket from terminal of the oil pressure sending unit. 4. Carefully draw the conduit and the pin side of mini-Deutsch connector forward and then up between the rear brake master cylinder reservoir and the frame downtube to area of the rear brake pedal. 5. See Figure 4. Remove the secondary locking wedge (3) from the pin side of the connector with a needle nose pliers. 1 3 2 is04577 1. Pin 2. Wire seal 3. Locking wedge Figure 4. Deutsch Connector Pin Side (2-pin connector shown) 6. Gently depress terminal latches inside pin housing and back out the pin in chamber #1 through the hole in wire seal. 7. Pull the oil sending unit wire through conduit and remove wire. Note the routing of the wire. 8. See Figure 9. Route the jumper (6) pins through the conduit from the kit in the same direction as the original wire noted in Step 7. Use cable straps to secure to the wire bundle. 9. See Figure 5. Locate pin chambers #1 and #2 on pin side of connector. Insert brown/green jumper pin into chamber #2 and feed until it clicks into place. Verify that pin will not back out of the chamber by giving a slight tug on the wire to confirm that it is locked

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HARLEY DAVIDSON FL SOFTAIL REAR BRAKE LEVERS REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 24-03-2011

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REMOVAL 1. See Figure 1. Remove the cotter pin (5) and washer (E) from the master cylinder clevis pin (B). Discard the cotter pin. NOTE The clevis pin has a slight interference fit. It may be necessary to use pliers to pull the clevis pin from the push rod. Be careful not to damage mating parts. 2. Remove the clevis pin (B) from the brake rod. Thoroughly clean and examine parts for wear. Replace if necessary. 3. Remove the brake lever mounting screw (A) and flat washer (D), and save for reinstallation, if necessary. Remove and discard the outer O-ring (2). 4. Remove the brake lever by rotating counter-clockwise and lifting the master-cylinder clevis if necessary. Pull the lever from the shaft. Remove and discard the inner O-ring. 5. Thoroughly clean the lever mounting shaft of grease and dirt. INSTALLATION NOTE These levers are equipped with self-lubricating bushings. It is not necessary to lubricate the mounting shaft or bushings inside the lever prior to installation. 1. See Figure 1. Insert the new O-rings (4) on either side of the lever bushings (2). Install the new brake lever (1) onto the mounting shaft. NOTE There is insufficient clearance to install the clevis pin from the outside, so it must be installed from the inboard side of the brake lever. 2. Align the holes in the lever and brake rod and insert the stock clevis pin (B) from the inboard side. 3. Install the small flat washer (E) onto the clevis pin and insert the new cotter pin (5). 4. Place the large flat washer (D) onto the brake lever mounting screw (A). Apply Loctite 243 (blue) to the threads of the screw, and reinstall into the brake lever mounting shaft. Tighten the screw to 12-16 ft-lbs (16.3-21.7 Nm) . 5. Install the brake pedal pad (C) to the brake lever. After repairing the brake system, test brakes at low speed. If brakes are not operating properly, testing at high speeds can cause loss of control, which could result in death or serious injury. (00289a) 6. Check the brake lever for proper operation and clearance through its full travel

2003 – 2006 KTM The e-Axle Installation Manuals

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Filed Under (KTM) by admin on 01-02-2012

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Remove the stock wheel spacers from both sides of the wheel hub and install both of the Rekluse wheel spacers. After installing the Rekluse wheel spacers, stow the wheel in a suitable place so that the brake rotor cannot be damaged. See following picture. 5 5. Remove the brake pads by removing the clips and sliding out the pin. See following picture. 6. Remove the leaf spring from the caliper. See following picture. 7. Re-install the brake pads with the included coil spring positioned on the pin between the brake pads. Secure the pin by re-installing the 2 clips. See following picture. Coil Spring on the pin and in between the brake pads 6 8. Coat the center axle in a thin layer of grease to aid in sliding the center axle on and off. Note: Coat the center axle in a thin layer every time it is reinstalled after removing the front wheel for tire maintenance. 9. Position the front wheel back in between the forks so that the brake disk is in place between the brake pads, and so the wheel spacers line up with the hole in the fork fists. 10. Slide the center axle, with 30-mm Bushing attached, through the right-side fork fist and through the wheel spacers in the front hub. Rotate the 30-mm bushing so the set screw is facing up, this will line the “0″ Offset Mark with the fork fist pinch clamp slot. Continue sliding the axle through until the 30-mm bushing is almost flush with the outer edge of the right fork fist. See following picture

2000-2002 Aprilia Falco INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Aprilia) by admin on 26-10-2010

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1) It is a good idea to use Blue Loc-tite on all bolts you are about to remove and replace. 2) This kit has extremely close tolerances and in order for all the parts to clear the triple clamp and gas tank, you will probably have to loosen and align most of the associated bolts. We have tried very hard to make this as compact as possible but we know the factory varies quite a bit from bike to bike. Be patient, the results are worth it. 3) Remove the large 14mm Allen nut and washer that holds your triple clamp on. You will not re-use either part. 4) Install the new “Triple clamp damper mount” Part # 22-2919-00 into the recess area where the stock, Allen-head bolt was sitting. There is a machined recess or washer on the bottom of our mount to match the recess on your triple clamp. The 2 knubs that hang downward, should match the rear contour of your triple clamp precisely. Use loc-tite and retighten the 14mm Allen nut, without any washer, to your factory specs, usually a minimum of 35 ft lbs. and a maximum of 85 ft.lbs. 5) Grease the tower pin and drop it in the tower pin hole portion of the frame bracket. The tower pin is designed to “float” and requires no retaining devices. Keep the tower pin lightly greased! 6) Remove both front fuel-tank retaining bolts and washers. You will use the longer bolts provided in our kit. 7) Install the frame bracket (part #22-8636-00) that mounts to your front (2) tank bolts holes. Make sure it does not make contact with the triple clamp. We’ve machined a recess on one side of this bracket to allow for extra clearance (see photo below). The casting ridge on the back of your triple clamp can vary from bike to bike, which might require some slight filing of that ridged seam to avoid contact with our frame bracket. 8) Now check to be sure the tower pin is not abrazing the tank. The tank mounts are adjustable, try to position the tank so nothing is touching. In some rare cases you might have to elongate the rear tank mounting brackets to allow clearance at the front. Use Loc-tite on the longer Allen bolts supplied and tighten the frame bracket 9) Install the stabilizer using the (2) 6×20 Allens with the slot in the link arm matching the tower pin. 10) Since the tank is rubber mounted, you want to be sure it won’t push forward and rub the frame bracket. After riding the first time, be sure the tank has not shoved forward by your body making contact with it. Remember, under heavy braking your entire body weight is pushing the tank forward. Until you have verified sufficient clearance between the tank and the tower pin, it might be smart to put something between the tank and tower pin to protect the tank. 11) Read your damper manual for initial settings on the controls. The damper is infinitely adjustable and totally up to the user to find their preference. Start with softer (counter clockwise) settings. Normally where we set the unit, at 8 clicks out on the base valve, is a good starting point.

Installation Instructions S&S Billet Air Cleaner Kit for Victory Motorcycles

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Filed Under (S&S) by admin on 29-10-2010

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1 – Disconnect the negative battery cable from the motorcycle and route it away from any metal parts in the area. 2 – Remove the seat and gas tank from the Victory motorcycle following your Victory service manual for the specifi c model you are performing the work on. Picture 1 WARNING 3 Key Switch Cover and Coil Mounting Bracket Removal 1 – Remove the ignition key switch cover by pulling outward on it. Picture 2 illustrates the key switch cover. 2 – Remove the four socket head cap screws from the ignition and coil mounting bracket that holds the bracket to the front and rear heads. Picture 3 points out the location of the four socket head cap screws. 3 – With the bracket free from the front and rear head unplug the spark plug wires at the coil. 4 – Disconnect the coil and ignition switch at the connectors freeing them from the primary wiring harness. Idle Air Control Hoses and Throttle Position Sensor Removal 1 – Disconnect the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) at the connector leaving the TPS attached to the throttle body. Picture 4 points out the TPS connector. 2 – Remove the Idle Air Control (IAC) supply hose from the air box. Note: Leave the 1.500″ rubber hose attached to the hard plastic IAC supply hose. Picture 4 points out the IAC air supply hose and the 1.500″ rubber hose. 3 – Remove the front Idle Air Control (IAC) air delivery hose from the rubber 90° fitting that leads into the front intake bore on the throttle body. Leave the 90° rubber fitting attached to the throttle body. Picture 4 points out the IAC front delivery hose. 4 – Remove the rear IAC air delivery hose from the rubber “T” fitting that leads into the rear intake bore on the throttle body. Leave the rubber “T” fitting attached to the throttle body. Picture 4 points out the IAC rear delivery hose

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