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8950 and 8960 Series High Performance Tire Changer Operation Manual

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 23-11-2010

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GENERAL CAUTIONS A. DURING THE USE AND MAINTENANCE OF THE MACHINE IT IS MANDATORY TO COMPLY WITH ALL LAWS AND REGULATIONS FOR ACCIDENT PREVEN- TION. B. THE ELECTRICAL POWER SOURCE MUST HAVE A GROUND CABLE AND THE GROUND CABLE OF THE MACHINE MUST BE CONNECTED TO THE GROUND CABLE OF THE POWER SOURCE. C. BEFORE ANY MAINTENANCE OR REPAIRS ARE ACCOMPLISHED THE MACHINE MUST BE DISCONNECTED FROM THE AIR AND ELECTRICAL SUPPLY. D. NEVER WEAR TIES, CHAINS OR OTHER LOOSE ARTICLES WHEN USING, MAINTAINING OR REPAIRING THE MACHINE. LONG HAIR IS ALSO DANGEROUS AND SHOULD BE KEPT UNDER A HAT. THE USER MUST WEAR PROPER SAFETY ATTIRE – GLOVES, SAFETY SHOES AND GLASSES. 2.0 INSTALLATION Your new JBC 8950 or 8960 Series Tire Changer requires a simple installation procedure requiring only a few moments. Follow these instructions carefully to insure proper and safe operation. The Tire Changer is delivered mounted to a wooden skid. Remove tire changer from its mounts carefully, taking care to avoid any back strain. Place Changer where proper operation will be unobstructed to all sides. Install the machine in a covered and dry place. 2.0.1 Models with SRA attached (8955IN, 8965IN) Once placed in the desired location the tire changer must be bolted to the floor using only the rear two mounting holes. Mounting anchors are provided with those machines with a Safety Restraint Arm. Tire Changer must be anchored to concrete floor if equipped with a “Safety Restraint Arm” BUILDING ELECTRICAL INSTALLATION MUST BE MADE BY A LICENSED ELECTRICIAN. Check that the electrical specifications of the power source are the same of the machine. The machine uses 110v, 60 hz, single phase 20 amp source. Electric specifications are clearly marked on a label at the rear of the machine. FAILURE TO PROVIDE PROPER ELECTRICAL SUPPLY AND GROUNDING WILL CREATE A SHOCK HAZARD TO THE OPERATOR

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Aermacchi IHRO1 Machine Specifications

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Filed Under (Aermacchi) by admin on 13-11-2010

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1. IHRO 1 caters for single cylinder thoroughbred Grand Prix racing motorcycles constructed during the period 1945-1972 inclusive, for the specific purpose of participation in Grand Prix competition during that era. Maximum capacity for any machine is 500cc, and wherever possible it is intended to run three classes, for machines up to 250cc, 350cc and 500cc. 2. Motorcycles must be presented in original, period condition, with no external updating. Period appearance seats, fuel tanks and fairings (if fitted) must be used. No external changes may be made to the appearance of any machine unless it can be proved that such a change was made in the period. Modern safety fixtures required by some federations and modifications mentioned in this document are not covered by this ruling. 3. No disc brakes are allowed. Drum brakes only may be used. 4. No alloy/magnesium wheels are allowed. Wire wheels only may be used. 5. All machines must have twin shock rear suspension: No monoshocks except Vincent Grey Flash. Suspension units must resemble period components, i.e. no external gas reservoirs etc. 6. All frames and swinging arms must conform exactly to period appearance; no box section swinging arms allowed unless fitted by the manufacturer to that machine in the period. 7. The maximum permitted rim width on either wheel is WM3. 8. No slick tyres, hand cut slicks or modern racing tyres designated by the manufacturer as being exclusively for wet weather use are permitted. Only the following rear tyres may be fitted. Any 19″ tyre. The following 18″ tyres, Dunlop 3.50×18, 3.50/3.25×18 KR124 and KR124A, Avon AM22 110/80×18 Rear Fitment and Avon AM18 120×18 9. Choice of carburettor is free, provided that this is of a period type cylindrical slide model, albeit of a later manufacture. Flat slide instruments are not permitted with the exception of Gardner carburettors. Fuel injection is not permitted except if it can be proved that particular motorcycle ran between 1945-72 with the same type of injection system fitted. A Wal Philips injector is classified under this heading. 10. The type of fuel used must conform to the ACU and FIM’s current fuel regulations for 100LL Avgas at 102 MON. See full specifications below. All machines must finish a race with a minimum of 2 litres of fuel in the tank to allow a sample to be taken for analysis. 11. The use of belt primary drives is encouraged.

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Vespa GTS Super Specification

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Filed Under (Vespa) by admin on 11-11-2010

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Gts super 300 ie Gts super 125 ie s 125cc s 50cc Gts 250 ie Gts 125cc LX 125cc LX 50cc 2 stroke Engine Single-cylinder, catalised, QUASAR 4 stroke, 4 valve electronic injection Single-cylinder LEADER 4 stroke with electronic injection Single-cylinder LEADER 4 stroke Single-cylinder HI-PER 2 stroke Single-cylinder, catalised, QUASAR 4 stroke, 4 valve electronic injection Single-cylinder, catalised, LEADER 4 stroke, 4 valve Single-cylinder LEADER 4 stroke Single-cylinder HI-PER 2 stroke Capacity 278cc 124cc 124cc 50cc 249cc 124cc 124cc 49cc Power 16.4 kW / 7500 rpm 10.5 Kw / 9500 rpm 7.65 Kw / 8250 rpm 3.2 Kw / 7500 rpm 15.7 Kw / 8500 rpm 7.65 Kw / 8250 rpm 7.65 Kw / 8250 rpm 2.5 Kw / 8500 rpm Max Torque 22Nm / 6500 rpm 12 Nm / 8000rpm 9.6 Nm / 7250 rpm 4.4 Nm / 6500 rpm 20.1 Nm / 6500 rpm 9.6 Nm / 7250 rpm 9.6 Nm / 7250 rpm 3.3 Nm / 6500 rpm Cooling Liquid Liquid Forced Air Forced Air Liquid Liquid Forced Air Forced Air Starter Electric Electric Electric and kick starter Electric and kick starter Electric Electric Electric and kick starter Electric and kick starter Transmission Automatic twist and go Automatic twist and go Automatic twist and go Automatic twist and go Automatic twist and go Automatic twist and go Automatic twist and go Automatic twist and go Front Suspension Single arm, dual chamber hydraulic shock absorber with coaxial spring Single arm link with coil spring and double hydraulic shock absorber Single arm link with coil spring and double hydraulic shock absorber Single arm link with coil spring and double hydraulic shock absorber Single sided trailing link with hydraulic shock absorber Single sided trailing link with hydraulic shock absorber Single sided trailing link with hydraulic shock absorber Single sided trailing link with hydraulic shock absorber Rear Suspension Two dual effect shock absorbers with adjustable preload Coil spring and double hydraulic shock absorber Coil spring and double hydraulic shock absorber Coil spring and double hydraulic shock absorber Twin hydraulic shock absorbers with preload adjuster Twin hydraulic shock absorbers with preload adjuster Hydraulic shock absorbers with preload adjuster Hydraulic shock absorber Front Brake ø 220mm disc brake 220mm disc brake ø 200mm disc brake ø 200mm disc brake ø 220mm disc brake ø 220mm disc brake ø 200mm disc brake ø 200mm disc brake Rear Brake ø 220mm disc brake 220mm disc brake ø 110mm drum brake ø 110mm drum brake ø 220mm disc brake ø 220mm disc brake ø 110mm drum brake ø 110mm drum brake Front Tyre Tubeless 120/70-12″ Tubeless 120/70 – 12″ Tubeless 110/70 – 11″ Tubeless 110/70 – 11″ Tubeless 120/70-12″ Tubeless 120/70-12″ Tubeless 110/70 – 11″ Tubeless 110/70-11″ Rear Tyre Tubeless 130/70-12″ Tubeless 130/70 – 12″ Tubeless 120/70 – 10″ Tubeless 120/70 – 10″ Tubeless 130/70-12″ Tubeless 130/70-12″ Tubeless 120/70 – 10″ Tubeless 120/70-10″ Running weight 158kg 158kg 114kg 96kg 151kg 145kg 114kg 96kg Length/Width/Height 2230mm / 755mm / 1170mm 1930mm / 755mm / 1930mm 1770mm / 740mm / 1140mm 1755mm / 740mm / 1140mm 1930mm / 755mm / 1170 mm 1940mm / 755mm / 1180 mm 1770mm / 740mm / 1140mm 1755mm / 740mm / 1140mm Fuel Tank Capacity 9 litres 9 litres 8.5 litres 8.5 litres 9.2 litres 10 litres 8.5 litres 8.5 litres Emmissions Euro 3 Euro 3 Euro 3 Euro 2 Euro 3 Euro 3 Euro 3 Euro 2 Colours Rosso Dragon Nero Lucido Montebianco Rosso Dragon Nero Lucido Montebianco Taormina Nero Lucido Montebianco Taormina Nero Lucido Montebianco Marrone Terra Di Toscana Bronzo Perseo Nero Vulcano Blu Midnight

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1945-1957 AJS Pitmans Installaiton Manual

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Filed Under (AJS) by admin on 31-10-2010

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AN A.J.S. O.H.V. single is easy to handle, and even the absolute novice quickly acquires confidence in the saddle. Beware, however, that you do not indulge in big throttle openings until you have had ample road experience. Also do not forget to digest the Highway Code. FIG. 1. A FLEXIBLE AND FAST TOURER WITH CLEAN LINES AND MECHANICAL QUIETNESS – THE 1957 MODEL 18S The 500 c.c. A.J.S. model shown is similar to the 350 c.c. model 16MS. Both models have snappy push rod O.H.V. engines with light-alloy cylinder heads, “Monobloc” carburettors, hairpin valve-springs, and automatic-ignition control. Their specification includes: “Teledraulic” front forks, Girling rear-suspension units, a quickly detachable rear wheel, die-cast light-alloy hubs, a deep secondary-chain guard, a new A.M.C. four- speed gearbox, Lucas headlamp, twin pilot-lights, and other attractive features. * The A.J.S. engine and frame numbers required on Form R.F. 1/2 will be found on the near-side of the crankcase and the off-side of the saddle lug, or on the off-side of the front down-tube (later models). THE BOOK OF THE A.J.S. 1 Essential Preliminaries. Before you can legally ride on the road – (1) Insure against all third-party risks and obtain the vital “certificate of insurance.” With a new machine you cannot get this until the machine is licensed, and an insurance “cover note” must be obtained. If you have a valuable machine, you are advised to take out full comprehensive insurance. (2) Obtain the registration licence and registration book (Form R.F.I/2)* or renew the licence (Form R.F. I/A). (3) Obtain a three-monthly “provisional” or an annual driving licence (Form D.L.I).* (4) Fit a reliable speedometer if one is not fitted (not essential if machine registered prior to 1st Oct., 1937). (5) If you carry a pillion-passenger, see that he or she sits astride a proper pillion seat securely fixed to the machine (all “springers” have dualseats), and that the passenger holds a current annual or substantive driving licence for Group G if you are a “learner.” (6) If you are ineligible for an annual or substantive driving licence, attach “L” plates to the front and back of the machine. (7) If not already provided, fit a red reflector (1½ in. minimum diameter) vertically at the rear of the motor-cycle and, on a sidecar outfit, an additional red reflector and rear lamp at the rear of the sidecar and at the same height as those on the motor-cycle. (8) Use an ignition-suppression type sparking plug or terminal cover if the machine was registered for the first time after 1. st July, 1953. All the official forms referred to above may be obtained from any money-order post office. See also footnote **, with reference to Forms R.F, 1/A or R.F. 112. You are not eligible for a substantive driving licence for Group G unless you are 16 and have complied with one of these conditions- (a) You have held a licence (other than a provisional or Visitor’s licence authorizing the driving of vehicles of the class or description applied for within a period of ten years ending on the date of coming into force of the licence applied for. (b) You have passed the prescribed driving test (this includes a test passed while serving in H.M. Forces) during the said period of ten years

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Yamaha 2005 R1 Bike Tech Sheet

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 18-01-2012

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Engine: Type: Liquid cooled, four stroke, transverse four cylinder, DOHC, 5 valves per cylinder. Displacement: 1000cc Year: 2005 Horsepower: 180hp Clutch: PM Exhaust: Vance & Hines Race Exhaust Mufflers: Vance & Hines Frame: Type: Stock Year: 2005 Swing Arm: Performance Machine Chromoly +4 Extended Shocks: Race Tech Modifications: Race Tech Tuned and Lowered. Forks: Stock lowered 2.5″ Rim: Performance Machine Contrast Cut Torque Size: 19″ X 3.0″ Finish: Contrast Cut Fender: None Tire: Dunlop Sportmax D208ZR 120/70ZR19 Brake: Dual Performance Machine 4 piston Radial Calipers Wheels Rear: Rim: Performance Machine Contrast Cut Torque Size: 18″ X 8.5″ Brake: Performance Machine 4 piston Radial Caliper Finish: Contrast Cut Tire: Dunlop Elite3 250/40/R18 Other Parts: Handlebars: Stock Foot Controls: Over Racing Seat: Stock Turn Signals F/R: Anything Extra? Mirrors: Performance Machine Torque chrome Mirrors 19″ FRONT WHEEL! Paint, Chrome, and other F/X’s: Colors: yellow/Black Type: Special Paint: AirTrix Industries The Painter: Chris Wood Powder Coating: A to Z Coatings

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HONDA 420 RANCHER 2×4/4×4 2007-2009 CLUTCH KIT INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 22-12-2011

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Remove key from the ignition switch. Remove the side panels from both sides. Remove both foot wells. 2. Drain coolant. Remove the oil drain plug from the motor; if you carefully drain it into a clean container you should be able to reuse it. 3. Disconnect shift motor (on electric shift models only). Remove coolant hoses. 4. Remove the bolts that mount the front differential to the frame, no other parts need to be removed. Carefully slide the front differential towards the front of the machine; you might need to lift up slightly to get the differential to move. Remove the drive shaft. Remove o-ring on output shaft (on motor). 5. Remove the fuel pump. 6. Loosen the front crankcase cover bolts, keep track of each bolt length and location. Slowly remove the crankcase cover. Carefully watch for o-ring shims and dowel pins that may fall out. 7. Unstake the nut holding the clutch on and remove nut. Using Honda tool #07933-HB3000A thread the large part of the tool into the center of the clutch. Tighten the center bolt on the tool while holding the large part of the tool with a wrench. This will pull the clutch off the machine. Place the clutch on a clean work surface. EPI performance.com
8. Using the c-clamps push down slightly on the outside cover and remove the four e-clips. Keeping track of which way they come off, remove the round metal plates one at a time. This will allow you to see the complete spring. Remove one end of each spring using a spring tool or needle nose pliers and then remove springs. Install the EPI springs by inserting the spring into the outer edge first. Using a spring tool or pliers (45 degree bent pliers work well) pull on the spring and insert the end into the hole. Install the metal plates and the e-clips. If you can’t get the plates to sit flat make sure each clutch arm is flat against the bottom plate of the clutch. Occasionally when you put the springs on, the clutch arms will pop up. Slide the clutch into the machine. The Sprague clutch is marked “outside” when installing make sure this is facing out. Torque clutch nut to 87 ft/lbs. 9. Clean the gasket surface on the motor and on the cover. Put a thin layer of Honda Bond or Yamabond semi-drying liquid gasket (or something similar as long as it is semi-drying) on the crankcase cover. Carefully install crankcase cover, do not force cover on. Torque bolts to 9 ft/lbs. 10. Install the fuel pump. 11. Install the o-ring on the output shaft (on motor) and install the drive shaft. Carefully slide the front differential back into place and mount to the frame. Install the coolant hoses. Refill your engine coolant to the proper level according to your owner’s manual. 12. Install the oil drain plug. Refill your engine to the proper level according to your owner’s manual. You can reuse your oil if it is clean and was drained into a clean container. Only use manufactures recommended oil. 13. Be sure to double check coolant and oil levels and to look for any leaks after the machine has run for a few minutes. 14. Go out and ride your machine. If your performance doesn’t seem right double check to make sure everything has been done properly. 15. EPI is constantly testing our products. Sometimes there is a need to contact the user with new technical information. To ensure that you are receiving this information visit our web site EPIperformance.com to register your clutch kit.

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ADLY Electric corrosion problem solved

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Filed Under (Adly) by admin on 27-10-2010

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makes the most patient equipment manager’s jaw get tight. It’s a messy process that involves draining, disassembly, flushing, and days of downtime. Now, our dealership offers a new, more thorough, less invasive solution to hydraulic contamination that can be brought right to your jobsite. It’s called the Ultra Clean®System. The innovative Ultra Clean hose and tube cleaning system removes contamination by using a pneumatic launcher to shoot a projectile through hydraulic lines and hoses. A “shelled” pump can send a lot of metal debris downstream with the last few gallons of oil that flow through the system. Flushing hydraulic lines with solvent and air can be tedious, and sometimes ineffective, but the Ultra Clean system makes decontaminating hydraulic systems fast and easy. It also lets you skip the hassle of handling and disposing harsh chemicals. It is as simple as disconnecting both ends of a line or hose and launching the specially designed projectile through it. “The Ultra Clean system is more efficient than any other method we’ve tried,” says Scott Dickey, Service Manager, Murphy Tractor, the John Deere dealership in Lincoln, Nebraska. “We no longer worry about the time and expense of hose replacement and tube disassembly for repair service. Ultra Clean is clearly superior than flushing with solvents and air blow-down.” Dickey says the Ultra Clean system is also used to prepare fabricated hose assemblies for over-the-counter sales at his dealership. He points out it has increased the value of parts and service by assuring delivery of cleaned assemblies that are ready for service. Logo sealing tape covers the open assembly ends and assures the customer that the assembly has been cleaned. It also serves as a reminder to keep contamination out of the system when the new assembly is put into place. Cleaning fabricated hoses right after they are constructed is another way in which dealers are taking a proactive approach to reducing contamination in hydraulic systems and reducing the risk of contam- ination. DataTrending Is A Road Map to Less Downtime. It’s important to understand that a little dirt can cost a lot of money if you let it get into your hydraulic system. Dirt circulating in your hydraulic fluid grates like a belt sander on internal machine parts. Trending, along with a proactive approach to contamination control and elimination, can help you prevent this scary scenario. “A little bit of contamination can cause lots of wear and tear in just a short time,” explains Mike Daly, fluid analysis program marketing manager for John Deere Construction & S

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KAWASAKI MULE Electric Steering Installation Manual And Removal

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 05-05-2012

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Remove plastic center cap on steering wheel by prying off with a small screwdriver. Remove steering wheel nut and remove steering wheel by pulling up on wheel. If wheel is tight have a partner tap on the shaft while pulling up on wheel. Note: Do not mushroom threads on shaft. Remove all screws that retain dash to body of vehicle. Disconnect all electrical connections at back of dash. Mark all wires to ensure easy install. Remove lower steering shaft bolt at rack and pinion. Remove upper bolt at base of steering column. Remove the 2 bolts that retain the steering column to the frame and remove the column and the shaft assembly. Remove lower u-joint on steering column shaft & replace it with supplied u-joint. There is a welded wire retainer on the lower dash tube where the electric motor will sit. You will need to grind off this piece and smooth. Remove the master cylinder bolt closest to the driver side and discard bolt. Your motor and module has been shipped together bolted to the bracket. It is important to follow the install sequence to ensure a proper installation. The lower shaft on the steering motor is marked on the shaft and on the motor. These marks must not be changed. If you remove the shaft it needs to be installed back in the same spot.

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EDELBROCK NITROUS SYSTEM UNIVERSAL MOTORCYCLE NITROUS SYSTEM

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Filed Under (Suzuki) by admin on 26-11-2010

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Wiring Diagram #1 Wiring Diagram #2 Red Red Red Red Black Black Black Black Black Black Factory Harness to Horn Factory Harness to Horn Horn Horn Nitrous Solenoid Nitrous Solenoid Switch Switch Bottom View Bottom View +12V with Key On From Horn Button (Ground when button is pressed) From Horn Button (Ground when button is pressed) To Nitrous Bottle To Nitrous Bottle To Nitrous Nozzle To Nitrous Nozzle Install Relay for OPTIONAL RPM Activated Switch Here. See Section 7.0 for More Details. Install Relay for OPTIONAL RPM Activated Switch Here. See Section 7.0 for More Details ©2007 Edelbrock Corporation Brochure #63-71940 Catalog #71940 Rev. 2/07 – DC/mc Page 4of 4 To Nitrous Bottle To Nitrous Nozzle Nitrous Solenoid To Starter Solenoid Switch Bottom View Ground Starter Button +12V when Pushed Install Relay for OPTIONAL RPM Activated Switch Here. See Section 7.0 for More Details. Wiring Diagram #3 Starter Button Activation for Suzuki Hayabusa 7.0 – WIRING MSD 8950 RPM SWITCH NOTE – This is a suggested wiring application. There are many ways that the RPMswitch may be installed. The installer needs to set RPMswitch to proper RPM and test operation. Use diagrams on page 3 for relay terminal #30 connection. Nitrous Solenoid To Nitrous Bottle To Nitrous Nozzle RPM ACTIVATED SWITCH 10,000 Desired RPM Chip Here Connect as Outlined in Wiring Diagrams White to 4-Coil Tach Adapter #T-101-MSD Black Battery Ground Yellow – N/C Gray – OFF When Set RPMis Exceeded Connect as Outlined in Wiring Diagrams NOTE – RPM Chips are Ordered Separately Red to Switched +12 Volt Tailight Power or any Other +12 Volt Source with the Key On Note – This Method Will Turn the Nitrous Off When Set RPM has Been Exceeded. 85 87A 30 86 87 A Test Light Can Be Used Here to Check Operation 8.0 – OPTIONAL PRODUCTS FOR EFI MOTORCYCLES A Progressive Timing Retard Controller is available from Schnitz Racing for fuel injected motorcycles. The EFIR Series Timing Retard Controllers can be used with or without a Power Commander installed.

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HARLEY DAVIDSON UNIVERSAL VISTA INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 12-03-2012

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1. Turn Harley Davidson thumb screw control all the way off. 2. Remove screw (A) from the motorcycle throttle housing. Position the mounting bracket, as shown in drawing. Replace throttle housing screw through the hole in the foot of the mounting bracket and into the throttle housing. Loosely tighten screw. 3. Slide the cruise control’s slip ring assembly over the end of the throttle grip up to the switch housing. NOTE: Metal band on slip ring assembly is next to switch housing not set screws. Insert correct size rubber filler between slip ring assembly and grip with “joint” of filler on bottom side, midway between two set screws. Tighten all set screws into rubber filler until tight or flush. 4. Place thumb lever slot over eye bolt. Depress spring to line up holes, and insert socket head screw. 5. Insert thumb lever screw into the hole in the head of mounting bracket that keep screw parallel to grip. Install the washer then the locknut on the thumb lever screw. Tighten locknut until mounting bracket and thumb lever are snug BUT loose enough to let thumb lever move freely up and down. 6. Secularly tighten the throttle housing screw (A) in step 1. 7. Twist throttle back and forth to insure there is no binding, slip ring is “SQUARE” with switch housing and thumb lever operates smoothly between “ON” and “OFF”. 8. CRUISE CONTROL ADJUSTMENTS – Twist throttle to half position and push thumb lever down to “SET” position. Throttle should hold snugly in this position. Flipping thumb lever to “OFF” position, releases cruise control hold, throttle should return to “OFF” position. Tightening acorn nut (B) will increase cruise control hold. Loosening acorn nut will decrease cruise control hold. Always check to make sure that throttle can be rotated both ways in “SET” position after adjustments.

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