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Fairing bodywork in glass-reinforced plastic Cruciata Racing

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 27-10-2010

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The fairing bodywork that they have I use in contest is made in sturdy and flexible glass-reinforced plastic. The fairing bodywork in glass-reinforced plastic they succeed to replace the fairing bodywork originates them nearly perfectly, thanks to the predisposition holes. The greater part of the fairing bodywork in glass- reinforced plastic in production has the points of attachment with the moto reinforces to you in carbon on every attack with the chassis of the moto. Between the types of fairing bodywork and as point of reference between the fairing bodywork is as an example fairing bodywork it Cruciata Racing, worked always handicraft with passion for it gets passionate to it to you, which has enjoyed in particular way of the progresses and the evolution of the materials and the members. fairing bodywork the Cruciata Racing is constructed entire in woven of glass with reinforces in carbon in correspondence of the attacks to the motor and between the parts in glass-reinforced plastic. In the line racing standards are included plexiglass of height (to pierce), neoprene sponge cm 1,5 (supplied already sagomata). It fairing bodywork Cruciata Racing is which between the types of fairing bodywork is distinguished for its use, that is, this fairing bodywork is born and it is developed in order to answer carefully and to satisfy the requirements of the pilots. Fairing bodywork the Cruciata Racing in glass-reinforced plastic obviously is demanded for that it regards the sport within and the contests in track, because they are the only ones like characteristic to resist to the sollicitations impegnative thanks to theirs reinforces inner. Moreover to being resistant, these fairing bodywork offer to an optimal elasticity and lightness. Fairing bodywork the Cruciata Racing of sure the fairing bodywork better is produced with the best materials on the market. The fairing bodywork in glass-reinforced plastic they can be acquired crude, or can be painted and prepared in in professional way, applying all the processes of preparation that guarantee a final result of elevated quality, is from the aesthetic point of view, the point of view of the duration and from the point of view of I use it of the fairing bodywork.

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Vespa GTS Super Specification

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Filed Under (Vespa) by admin on 11-11-2010

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Gts super 300 ie Gts super 125 ie s 125cc s 50cc Gts 250 ie Gts 125cc LX 125cc LX 50cc 2 stroke Engine Single-cylinder, catalised, QUASAR 4 stroke, 4 valve electronic injection Single-cylinder LEADER 4 stroke with electronic injection Single-cylinder LEADER 4 stroke Single-cylinder HI-PER 2 stroke Single-cylinder, catalised, QUASAR 4 stroke, 4 valve electronic injection Single-cylinder, catalised, LEADER 4 stroke, 4 valve Single-cylinder LEADER 4 stroke Single-cylinder HI-PER 2 stroke Capacity 278cc 124cc 124cc 50cc 249cc 124cc 124cc 49cc Power 16.4 kW / 7500 rpm 10.5 Kw / 9500 rpm 7.65 Kw / 8250 rpm 3.2 Kw / 7500 rpm 15.7 Kw / 8500 rpm 7.65 Kw / 8250 rpm 7.65 Kw / 8250 rpm 2.5 Kw / 8500 rpm Max Torque 22Nm / 6500 rpm 12 Nm / 8000rpm 9.6 Nm / 7250 rpm 4.4 Nm / 6500 rpm 20.1 Nm / 6500 rpm 9.6 Nm / 7250 rpm 9.6 Nm / 7250 rpm 3.3 Nm / 6500 rpm Cooling Liquid Liquid Forced Air Forced Air Liquid Liquid Forced Air Forced Air Starter Electric Electric Electric and kick starter Electric and kick starter Electric Electric Electric and kick starter Electric and kick starter Transmission Automatic twist and go Automatic twist and go Automatic twist and go Automatic twist and go Automatic twist and go Automatic twist and go Automatic twist and go Automatic twist and go Front Suspension Single arm, dual chamber hydraulic shock absorber with coaxial spring Single arm link with coil spring and double hydraulic shock absorber Single arm link with coil spring and double hydraulic shock absorber Single arm link with coil spring and double hydraulic shock absorber Single sided trailing link with hydraulic shock absorber Single sided trailing link with hydraulic shock absorber Single sided trailing link with hydraulic shock absorber Single sided trailing link with hydraulic shock absorber Rear Suspension Two dual effect shock absorbers with adjustable preload Coil spring and double hydraulic shock absorber Coil spring and double hydraulic shock absorber Coil spring and double hydraulic shock absorber Twin hydraulic shock absorbers with preload adjuster Twin hydraulic shock absorbers with preload adjuster Hydraulic shock absorbers with preload adjuster Hydraulic shock absorber Front Brake ø 220mm disc brake 220mm disc brake ø 200mm disc brake ø 200mm disc brake ø 220mm disc brake ø 220mm disc brake ø 200mm disc brake ø 200mm disc brake Rear Brake ø 220mm disc brake 220mm disc brake ø 110mm drum brake ø 110mm drum brake ø 220mm disc brake ø 220mm disc brake ø 110mm drum brake ø 110mm drum brake Front Tyre Tubeless 120/70-12″ Tubeless 120/70 – 12″ Tubeless 110/70 – 11″ Tubeless 110/70 – 11″ Tubeless 120/70-12″ Tubeless 120/70-12″ Tubeless 110/70 – 11″ Tubeless 110/70-11″ Rear Tyre Tubeless 130/70-12″ Tubeless 130/70 – 12″ Tubeless 120/70 – 10″ Tubeless 120/70 – 10″ Tubeless 130/70-12″ Tubeless 130/70-12″ Tubeless 120/70 – 10″ Tubeless 120/70-10″ Running weight 158kg 158kg 114kg 96kg 151kg 145kg 114kg 96kg Length/Width/Height 2230mm / 755mm / 1170mm 1930mm / 755mm / 1930mm 1770mm / 740mm / 1140mm 1755mm / 740mm / 1140mm 1930mm / 755mm / 1170 mm 1940mm / 755mm / 1180 mm 1770mm / 740mm / 1140mm 1755mm / 740mm / 1140mm Fuel Tank Capacity 9 litres 9 litres 8.5 litres 8.5 litres 9.2 litres 10 litres 8.5 litres 8.5 litres Emmissions Euro 3 Euro 3 Euro 3 Euro 2 Euro 3 Euro 3 Euro 3 Euro 2 Colours Rosso Dragon Nero Lucido Montebianco Rosso Dragon Nero Lucido Montebianco Taormina Nero Lucido Montebianco Taormina Nero Lucido Montebianco Marrone Terra Di Toscana Bronzo Perseo Nero Vulcano Blu Midnight

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KAWASAKI MULE Electric Steering Installation Manual And Removal

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 05-05-2012

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Remove plastic center cap on steering wheel by prying off with a small screwdriver. Remove steering wheel nut and remove steering wheel by pulling up on wheel. If wheel is tight have a partner tap on the shaft while pulling up on wheel. Note: Do not mushroom threads on shaft. Remove all screws that retain dash to body of vehicle. Disconnect all electrical connections at back of dash. Mark all wires to ensure easy install. Remove lower steering shaft bolt at rack and pinion. Remove upper bolt at base of steering column. Remove the 2 bolts that retain the steering column to the frame and remove the column and the shaft assembly. Remove lower u-joint on steering column shaft & replace it with supplied u-joint. There is a welded wire retainer on the lower dash tube where the electric motor will sit. You will need to grind off this piece and smooth. Remove the master cylinder bolt closest to the driver side and discard bolt. Your motor and module has been shipped together bolted to the bracket. It is important to follow the install sequence to ensure a proper installation. The lower shaft on the steering motor is marked on the shaft and on the motor. These marks must not be changed. If you remove the shaft it needs to be installed back in the same spot.

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Kawasaki Teryx Electric Steering Installation Manual

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 29-04-2012

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installation Instructions for Kawasaki Teryx 1. Before installation, center steering wheel and verify tires are straight. 2. Begin by removing all Phillips screws retaining the plastic hood to the front grill, headlights, and frame structure and remove front clip assembly. 3. Remove plastic shroud by removing the 4 phillips screws that retain it to the frame. 4. There are 2 bolts that hold the steering column tube in place and you need to reach up under frame work to get to them. They are 14 mm and you need a box and open end wrench to access them. Loosen the upper one and remove the lower one. Remove the pinch bolt at the column shaft and u-joint. Remove the lower pinch bolt at the rack and u-joint and while tilting the column up and down remove the stock steering shaft.
5. Once the shaft is removed, you are ready for installation. Your bracket and motor has come completely assembled as shown below. You will need to remove the lower shaft from the motor to install it. After removal of the shaft you will need to loosen the 3 mounting bolts from the bracket to the motor to allow clearance for the bracket to slide over the frame piece where it will mount

TOYOTA SPECIALTY AND REPLACEMENT PARTS

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Filed Under (Toyota Manuals) by admin on 30-09-2011

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73-3844 Replaces: 3977775, 3078511 CLIP -HOOD INSULATION Head Dia.: 2″ Length: 3/4″ G.M. ’64/ UNIT PACKAGE 100 79-5126 Replaces: 20064875 CLIP -HOOD INSULATION Head Dia.: 1 21/32″ Length: 3/4″ G.M. ’78/ UNIT PACKAGE 50 79-5127 Replaces: 20030401 CLIP -HOOD INSULATION Head Dia.: 1 3/8″ Length: 1″ G.M. ’80/ UNIT PACKAGE 50 79-5100 Replaces: 388908-S RETAINER -HOOD INSULATION Head Dia.: 1-3/4″ Ford ’80/ UNIT PACKAGE 100 74-3945 Replaces: 385330-S, 6003351 FASTENER -HOOD INSULATION Ford & Chrysler Products ’73/ AMC 4005513 ’76 UNIT PACKAGE 100 92-7067 Replaces: 15678493, 21039141 RETAINER -HOOD INSULATION Head Dia.: 1-9/16″ Length: 1/2″, Hole: 1/4″ Plastic Saturn ’91/ UNIT PACKAGE 25 67-3119 Replaces: 389809, C6GY-16776-A CLIP -HOOD INSULATION RETAINER 1-1/2″ x 1-1/2″ Plastic G.M., Ford Products UNIT PACKAGE 50 72-3718 Replaces: 389089 FASTENER -HOOD INSULATION 2″ x 2″ Plastic G.M. Cars UNIT PACKAGE 50 99-8032 Replaces: 385595-S, 386553-S RETAINER -HOOD INSULATION Plastic Formerly 74-3944 For Heavier Type Insulation Head: 1-3/16 Ford ’74/ UNIT PACKAGE 50 95-7382 Replaces: N-803613-S RETAINER -HOOD INSULATION Hole: 1/4″, Head: 1-3/4″ Stem Length: 7/8″ Plastic Ford Explorer ’91/, Taurus, Sable, Mustang, Continental ’92/ UNIT PACKAGE 50 95-7369 Replaces: W700671-S300 RETAINER -HOOD INSULATION Head Dia.: 25MM, Hole: 8MM Black Plastic Ford Contour & Mercury Mystique ’95/ UNIT PACKAGE 15 96-7577 Replaces: 01644290, 15678979, 01553-0075U RETAINER -SPEAKER, DOOR SILL, BUMPER, HOOD INSULATOR Black Plastic Hole: M6, Barb Length: 12MM Head Dia.: 11MM, O/L: 19MM G.M. Various Models ’86/, Nissan Altima & Maxima 2002/

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BMW Motorcycles R 850/ R 1100 Series and K 1200 RS – New Clutch and Pressure Plate

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Filed Under (BMW) by admin on 16-11-2010

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Details: All R 850/R 1100 and K 1200 RS models produced from December 1997 have received a new clutch disc, manufactured by VALEO, and a new pressure plate (see applicable part numbers below). Earlier production for both series can be fitted with the new parts. However, due to changes in specifications (a thicker pressure plate, a thinner clutch disc), the new VALEO clutch disc is not compatible with the old pressure plate. In this application, the new clutch disc and pressure plate must be replaced as a pair. Series Production: R 850/R1100 models: Starting with December 1997 production. K 1200 RS: Starting with December 1997 production. Part Number: R 850/R1100 Models: VALEO Clutch Disc: 21 21 2 325 864 Used only in conjunction with Pressure Plate: 21 21 2 325 863 R 850/R1100 models: VALEO Clutch Disc with reduced play on gearbox input shaft (KD – Scheibe): 21 21 2 325 862 Used only in conjunction with Pressure Plate: 21 21 2 325 863 K 1200 RS: VALEO Clutch Disc: 21 21 2 332 973 Used only in conjunction with Pressure Plate: 21 21 2 332 974 Attention: For R 850/R1100 and K 1200 RS models with production dates of 12/97 and later, all clutch parts can be replaced individually, as the new pressure plate will already be installed. On earlier production examples, installing the new VALEO clutch disc without replacing the pressure plate will not allow the clutch to completely disengage.

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VICTORY HAMMER, KINGPIN, VEGAS AND JACKPOT ELECTRIC HORN INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Victory) by admin on 29-01-2011

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1. Remove the left and right plastic side covers and the seat (two allen bolts located below the sides of the seat). Unplug and remove the stock horn (located over the oil cooler). Connect the female ends of the jacketed two wire cable supplied to the original horn wires. Route the other end of the cable up over the engine and back to where the relay will mount as shown in photo (1). 2. Using the relay supplied with this kit and the wiring diagram provided with the horn set, identify the terminals of the relay (there are very small numbers next to each of the terminal). Connect the two (2) wires from the cable to terminals #85 & 86 on the relay. Locate the fuse holder wire assembly supplied and connect the blade terminal to the relay terminal #87 or #30. Connect the other end of the fuse wire to the battery positive terminal (+). 3. Working under the left side of the motorcycle, refer to photo (2) and install the black bracket supplied as shown onto the engine mount. Locate the four thin flat brackets and two (2) 6mm nuts supplied with the horn set and two lock washers supplied with the kit. Bolt two (2) of the brackets to each of the horns using a lock washer and 6mm nut on each and make them snug. Using the remaining 6 x 12mm bolt, nut and lock washer install the horns onto the black bracket and align as shown in photo (3). Adjust the horn location so that they are free to vibrate and do not come in contact with other parts of the motorcycle then tighten all three 6mmm bolts securely. 4. Using the two remaining wire assembles supplied, connect the larger terminals with double wires to one of the horns and the terminals with the single wire to the other horn. Route these wires up thru the frame to the relay. Connect the wire with the female blade connector to the relay terminal #30 or #87. Connect the ring terminal to the battery negative (-) terminal
or any 6m bolt on the frame. Turn on the ignition and test the horns. Secure the relay to the frame or other wiring and all loose wires using the cable ties supplied. Replace the seat and side covers

TRIUMPH ROCKET III ELECTRIC HORN HARDWARE KIT INSTALLATION

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Filed Under (Triumph) by admin on 24-12-2010

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1. Remove the seat and left hand side cover. (held in place by two (2) 10mm bolts) Remove the chrome cover from the stock horn located below the headlights. (held in place by two (2) 5mm allen screws at the top of the cover) 2. Unplug the wires from the stock horn. Locate the supplied jacketed cord and attach the end with the piggyback jumpers to the horn wires. Plug these back onto the horn terminals as shown in photo (1). Remove the black plastic left side steering head frame cover (held in place with two (2) 5mm allen screws). Route the cord behind the headlights, along the left side of the frame and over the engine keeping it neatly out of sight. Route the end if the cord to where the relay will mount as shown in photo (2A). Replace chrome horn cover and steering head frame cover. 3. Using the relay supplied, refer to the wiring diagram included with the horn set and the small numbers next to the terminals on the relay. Connect the 2 wires from the jacketed cord to terminals #85 & #86. Connect the blade terminal of the fuse wire assembly (supplied) to terminal #30 on the relay. Attach the other end of the fuse holder to the positive (+) battery terminal. 4. On the horns bend the wire terminals outward so that they will be parallel to the mounting brackets when installed. Refer to photo (3) and assemble the horns onto their supplied mounting brackets as shown. Bolt two (2) of the four (4) flat silver brackets on each of the horns using the 6mm nuts and lock washers supplied. Bolt the black bracket to the left hand horn using the 6x12mm bolt and nyloc nut supplied. Place the 6 x 35mm bolt with a washer and lock washer thru the right hand horn bracket then the left hand black bracket and place the 3/8″ flange nut over the back of the bolt. Remove the bolt where the horns will mount (see photo 2B) and bolt the horn set on as assembled with the flange nut on the back side of the black bracket. Align the horns as shown in photo (2) being careful that the horns do not make contact with each other or any other parts as this will significantly reduce their output then tighten the bolt securely.

Pulsar XR 650R ELECTRIC-START KIT INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Pulsar) by admin on 27-10-2010

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1. Remove the seat, fuel tank, side panels, muffler, and headers. 2. Disconnect the stator wires from their corresponding mates underneath the seat (trace the wires up from the left side case.) Un-route the stator wiring so it hangs free from the left side case. 3. Remove the stock shift lever and the left side engine case cover. You do not need to drain the oil from the engine. 4. Unbolt and remove the stator and wiring from the stock cover. Do not cut any wires. 5. The stock pulsar coil (small black box hanging from the stator) will have to be modified slightly to clear the ring gear before installation into the new cover. Remove (file or grind) about .030 inches of material from the base of the pulsar coil so that the base is flush with the face of the rest of the coil as shown in Photos 1 and 2. File Here Photo 2 Make flush with this surface Remove material here Photo 1 6. Install the stator and modified pulsar coil into the new engine case cover as shown in Photo 3. Use the three provided Phillips head bolts, split lock-washers, and plastic cable clamps to secure the wiring as shown. You will need to pull about ½” of extra wire through the grommet (Photo 4) to give you enough wire length for the grommet to sit in its case cutout. To do this, remove the electrical tape from the end of the stator wires and pull each wire individually through the grommet. Neither of the stock metal wire guides will be used when reinstalling the stator into the new case (Photo 5). 5/16″ cable clamps 1/8″ cable clamp Photo 3 Photo 5 Not Used Pull extra wire through grommet Photo 4 7. Remove the stock flywheel nut (An air impact tool works best to remove this nut without turning the motor). Remove the flywheel using the flywheel puller provided. 8. Locate the T and F marks on the stock flywheel (Photo 6). The T mark is used to adjust valve clearances and its location needs to be transferred to the ring gear. Scribe a line in the edge of the flywheel in line with the T mark as shown in Photo 7

Kawasaki ZX-14 TITANIUM SIDEWINDER EXHAUST Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 30-04-2012

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STEP 2: PRE-ASSEMBLE HEADERS, COLLECTOR, AND MID-PIPE TO INSURE PROPER FIT BETWEEN ALL PARTS: Brock’s Performance pre-assembles the exhaust system before it is shipped to your door. We ask you to this to insure there were no shipping damages incurred before you start disassembling your bike. A lot of our customers use WD-40 applied to the joints to ease assembly, adjustment, and/or disassembly. STEP 3: REMOVE ZX-14 RIGHT AND LEFT DASHBOARDS : The right and left dashboards are held in place by three fasteners (Figure 4) which are removed with a No. 4 hex head wrench. Note that all dashboard and fairing fasteners have thin plastic washers located between the fastener head and the plastic body work. Be careful to save the plastic washers. To avoid losing fasteners and washers it is recommended that the installer place them in a container once they are removed. STEP 4: REMOVE ZX-14 LOWER FAIRING : The lower fairing consists of separate right and left side panels, both of which should be removed. The locations of the bolts and plastic push pins holding the fairing in place are illustrated in Figure 5. Details are provided below. • The plastic push pins is located in the front of the fairing (3) , aft of the front tire, and holds the left and right panels together. Remove the plastic push pins using a thin blade screw driver to lift the rivet head. Then pull the rivet from the bodywork. This will release the right panel from the left panel. • Remove the lower fairing fasteners & washers (1 & 2) on the right fairing panel with a No. 5 hex head wrench. • Remove the upper fairing fasteners & washers (4, 5, & 6) on the right fairing panel with a No. 4 hex head wrench. • Note that the top of the fairing incorporates slots into which hooks at the bottom of the mid fairing (red bodywork) fit. These hooks are shown in Figure 8. Pull the bottom of the lower fairing panel away from the bike and then downward to clear the hooks from the slots. The right side lower fairing should now separate easily from the mid-fairing. • Repeat for the left side lower fairing

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