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MOTORCYCLE ROLLER CHAIN Maintenance and Lubrication

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 27-11-2010

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Cleaning and Relubrication Perhaps the largest contributor to shortened chain life is inadequate lubrica- tion. All working parts of a chain should be lubricated uniformly. The use of the highest viscosity oil that allows for flow between the link plates and coats pin-bushing areas will normally provide the greatest wear resistance. Apply oil to the upper edges of link plates. This allows for the greatest access of oil to pin-bushing joints. For open drives, excess lubrication on outer chain surfaces should be removed, since it will either be thrown off during operation or serve to collect foreign materials. If foreign objects or surplus lubrication accumulates on chain surfaces to the extent of making re-lubrication of the joints impossible, the chain must be cleaned. Standard roller chains may be cleaned by washing in kerosene or any other good petroleum-based solvent. WARNING: These solvents are flammable. Agitate the chain to assure penetration of the solvent and a thorough flushing of the pin-bushing areas. Drain off excess solvent and inspect bushings and pins for wear. Replace the chain if wear is excessive or parts are fractured or missing. O-ring chains may be cleaned externallyby washing in kerosene. Do not use any other cleaning agent or the O-rings may be damaged. When cleaning O- ring chain, clean only the external areas of the chain. Do not attempt to force kerosene into the pin-bush cavity. Do not try to repair a worn-out chain by replacing individual links. The pitch of the new links will be shorter and will most likely result in chain fatigue failure and/or severe sprocket damage. For chains which are still usable, soak them in SAE 40 or 50 automotive engine oil (without additives). Flexing the chain in oil will assure greater penetration of lubricant. Inspect and clean sprockets. If sprockets are worn or damaged, they should be replaced.Installing new chain on worn out sprockets will significantly shorten the chain’s service life. WARNING: always wear eye protection when assembling or disassembling chain

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Harley-Davidson CHAIN DRIVE INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 15-04-2012

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1) Assemble & install the chain tensioner assembly over the primary chain as shown in figure 1. 2) Install the compensator sprocket with extender & spacer (numbers 5, 6, & 7, FIG 2)(#7 is not included in this kit), primary chain, chain tensioner, and clutch basket simultaneously onto the motor drive shaft & transmission main shaft. Rotate the chain drive slightly as needed to allow the splines to line-up. 3) Install the chain tensioner nut loosely on the chain tensioner bolt. 4) Install the sliding cam onto the compensator sprocket, & slide the compensating sprocket cover-assembly (#3) over the cam. 5) Apply 2 drops of Rivera “Red” thread-lock on the threads of the motor drive shaft, & install the motor nut loosely with the fingers at this time. The hex spacer (#7) and spacer (#2) as seen in fig.2 are not provided in Rivera Engineering’s chain drive kit. These components are required with some applications, and can be purchased from your local Harley-Davidson dealer. FIG 2 6) Apply 2 drops of Rivera “red” thread-lock on the threads of the transmission main-shaft and loosely install the clutch hub nut (left hand threads). 7) Place the HD “Primary Drive Locking Tool” HD-41214 on the primary chain as shown in figure XXX and tighten the motor sprocket nut to 150-165 foot-pounds. 8)Turn the locking tool 180 degrees and move it to the clutch sprocket. Tighten the clutch hub nut to 70-80 foot pounds (left- hand thread). Adjust chain tension so that the top strand has 5/8″- to-7/8″ of up and down play (cold drive train). Tighten the center bolt nut to 21-29 foot pounds of torque.

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HARLEY DAVIDSON CHROME INNER PRIMARY HOUSING INSTALLATION INSTRUCTION

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 29-01-2011

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Kit Contents Table 1. Kit Contents Part Number Description (Quantity) Not sold separately Chrome Inner Primary Housing 786A Sealing fastener (5) INSTALLATION NOTES Whenever the sealing fasteners are loosened or removed, they must be replaced. Always replace using Harley-Davidson® Original Equipment sealing fasteners part 786A. Do not use part 786. The primary housing included in this kit installs in the same manner as the stock inner primary housing with the following exception: Use the five sealing fasteners included with this kit. Install and tighten fasteners to the torque specified below. For 2006 Dyna model motorcycles: Remove dowel pins from the chrome inner primary housing before attempting installation. Using a pair of pliers or vice grips, remove the dowel pins by carefully twisting and pulling on the pins. Be careful not to scratch or mar the chrome or sealing surfaces of the chrome inner primary housing. Remove the chain tensioner anchor plate, bolt and screws from the stock inner primary housing after it has been removed, then install it on the chrome inner primary housing. See the appropriate Service Manual for the proper tightening procedure, and torque specifications. 1. See the Drive section of the appropriate Service Manual, and remove the stock inner primary housing. Clean the internal threads in the crankcase and transmission case where the sealing fasteners were removed using a wire brush. Install the chrome inner primary housing as indicated below. Replace the five stock sealing fasteners with the five bolts included in this kit. Put a light coat of primary oil under the head of the sealing fasteners and then tighten to 23-25 ft- lbs (31-34 Nm)

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Harley-Davidson BAKER COMPENSATING SPROCKET INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 19-04-2012

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1) Remove the primary chain case cover. Refer to your Factory Service Manual for this procedure. 2) Remove the compensating sprocket nut with a 1-1/2″ socket. A ½” impact gun is best for this task. *) Remove the 1-3/16″ clutch nut. This is a left handed nut so loosen it by turning it in the clockwise direction (as viewed from the left side of the motorcycle). 4) With one hand on the compensating sprocket and one on the clutch assembly, remove the primary drive assembly (compensating sprocket, primary chain, tensioner assembly, and clutch as shown in figure a and set it on a clean surface. 5) Flip the adjuster shoe bracket on the chain tensioner assembly. figure b shows the stock orientation of the adjuster show and bracket. Figure C shows the adjuster show bracket flipped 180°. To flip the shoe bracket, remove the two ¼-28×2 bolts that hold the bracket assembly together. This will allow you to separate the chain tensioner assembly components from the primary chain. Flip the bracket around as shown in figure c . PAGE 4 Figure B Figure A BAKER COMPENSATING SPROCKET INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS 6) install the new compensating sprocket, chain, and clutch onto the motor sprocket shaft and the transmission input shaft. The flipped chain tensioner assembly (as shown in figure c ) is not ‘captured’ on the primary chain like the stock configuration. Loosely install the chain tensioner assembly onto the anchor plate bolt. Tighten the compensating sprocket nut to 157+ 7 ft-lbs and the clutch hub nut to 75+ 5 ft-lbs using red Loctite on the threads.

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Harley-Davidson Softail Conversion Kit Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 02-12-2010

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1. Place the motorcycle on the lift. 2. Place a suitable Jack under the Frame of the Motorcycle and tie down securely. 3. Remove Drain Plug from Primary Cover Assembly and drain oil. 4. Slide Rubber Boot off of the Clutch Cable Adjuster. Loosen and back the Jam nut away from the Clutch Cable Adjuster. Move Clutch Cable Adjuster towards the Jam Nut to introduce free play in the Clutch Lever. 5. Remove the fasteners that secure the seat. Remove seat. 6. Disconnect negative Battery Terminal. 7. Remove the Saddle Bags. And their hardware. If equipped. 8. Loosen Muffler Clamp on both Mufflers and other attaching hardware. Remove and discard both Mufflers. 9. Loosen the 4 exhaust stud nuts and save. Remove and discard head pipes and exhaust gaskets. 10. Disconnect the Rear Lamp Wiring Harness. 11. Remove any fasteners from Electrical Box. 12. Remove and discard Rear Fender, Fender Support and fasteners. NOTE: 2008-Current various models. Remove ECM from Fender and save nuts. 13. Drain all Brake Fluid from the Rear Brake System. 14. Un-clamp Rear Brake Line from the frame and Rear Fork. 15. Remove and discard both Banjo Bolts and Crush Washers from the Rear Brake Caliper and the Rear Brake Master Cylinder. 16. Remove Brake Light Switch from the Brake line, Save for reassembly. 17. Remove the Torx screw from the Brake Line bracket, Save the Torx screw for reassembly. 18. Remove and Discard Brake Line. 19. If Lower Controls option. Remove and Discard right and left floorboards/foot pegs, brake pedal, shifter, and shift linkage. Remove and Discard Passenger Foot pegs or Floorboards and their mounts. Then skip to step 24. 20. If Lower Controls Not purchased. Continue. 21. Remove acorn nut from Shift Linkage. 22. Remove 3 fasteners from Drivers Floorboard and remove. 23. Remove and discard Jiffy Stand. 24. Remove the Primary Cover by first removing the top and rear inspection cover screws. 25. Continue by removing remaining fasteners. 14 total. 26. Remove and discard Primary Cover Gasket. 27. Clean residual gasket material from both surfaces. 28. Loosen the Top Center Nut on the Primary Chain Adjuster. Lower the Primary Chain Adjuster until it rests flat on the Inner Primary Cover. 29. Remove the Clutch Lifter Retaining Ring from the Clutch Basket. Remove Clutch Lifter Assembly. 30. Using the Primary Drive Locking Tool. Loosen the Compensating Sprocket Nut. 31. Using the Primary Drive Locking Tool. Loosen the Clutch Hub Main shaft Nut. WARNING: This nut is LEFT HAND threaded. 32. Remove the Primary Drive Locking Tool, Compensating Sprocket Nut, and Clutch Hub Main shaft Nut. 33. Remove the Sprocket cover and Sliding Cam from the Crank Shaft Extension. 34. Remove the Clutch Assembly, Primary Chain, Compensating Sprocket, and Crank Shaft Extension in one assembly.

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HARlEY DAVIDSON AUTOMATIC PRIMARY CHAIN TENSIONER INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 29-01-2011

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1. Refer to the appropriate Service Manual and remove seat. To prevent accidental vehicle start-up, which could cause death or serious injury, disconnect negative (-) battery cable before proceeding. (00048a) 2. Disconnect negative (-) battery cable. 3. Refer to the appropriate Service Manual and remove primary cover. 3 1 2 5 4 is00561 1. Screw (2) 2. Anchor plate 3. Nut and washer 4. Manual tensioner 5. Screw (2) Figure 1. Manual Tensioner: 1985-2000 Models 4. For 1985-2000 model motorcycles, remove manual tensioner and replace the carriage bolt as follows: a. See Figure 1. Remove two screws (5) and nut and washer (3), and remove chain tensioner (4). b. Remove two screws (1) and anchor plate (2). c. Replace the carriage bolt in the anchor plate with the carriage bolt from the kit. d. Apply 2-3 drops of Loctite 262 (red) to the threads of the anchor plate mounting screws (1), then install anchor plate and two screws. Tighten screws to 12- 14 ft-lbs (16-19 Nm) . For 2001 and later model motorcycles, remove manual tensioner as follows: a. See Figure 2. Remove nut and washer (1) and remove chain tensioner (2) Removing the Autotensioner for Service 1. Use a tie wrap and secure the shoe to the base of the autotensioner, without securing it to the autotensioner bracket. This will retain the autotensioner adjustment for reinstallation during service. 2. Remove two autotensioner hex screws, and autotensioner. Resetting the Autotensioner 1. See Figure 5. Compress autotensioner wedge (1) and spring back to the base. 2. Hold wedge in position by inserting a hex wrench or pick tool through the hole in the base of the autotensioner. 3. See Figure 6. Move plastic autotensioner shoe (1) into place as shown. 4. If available, install shipping plate (2) to secure the shoe to the base. If it is not available, secure the shoe to the base with a tie wrap

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Honda CR 125/ 250R The MSD Enhancer Ignition INSTALLATION

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 27-11-2011

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The following explains some technical aspects of the Enhancer Ignition. Battery: The battery is necessary to the operation of the Enhancer in two regards. • The battery supplies voltage to the complex timing feature of the Enhancer.
• The Enhancer has a built in boost circuit that amplifies the spark energy at low rpm where the stock magneto is insufficient. The MSD NiCad Battery pack, PN 4381, must be charged with the recommended battery charger or an MSD Fast Charger, PN 4385. The battery should be completely discharged before recharging. If a 7.2 Battery Charger is used, the recommended time for charging is seven hours. With the MSD Fast Charger the battery only needs to charge for one hour. Note: No fast charger besides the MSD Fast Charger may be used to charge the MSD NiCad Battery. Damage to the battery will occur. Timing: The Enhancer Ignition allows the user to adjust the ignition timing curve to optimize engine
power output. This is done by rotating the potentiometer shaft located on the back of the ignition. Clockwise rotation retards the timing while counterclockwise advances the timing (Figure 1). Coil: The MSD Enhancer Ignition System includes a special Pro CD Coil. This coil has an extremely low primary resistance and a high turns ratio to produce maximum spark energy. The Pro CD Coil is encapsulated in a Rynite compound that is impervious to contaminates and vibration. Note: Do not use the stock coil with the Enhancer Ignition

HARLEY DAVIDSON CHROME INNER PRIMARY COVERS INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 23-02-2011

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INSTALLATION 1 2 3 is06139 Figure 1. Remove Three Original Equipment Screws As Shown 1. See Figure 1. Remove the stock fasteners as shown in Figure 1. Save screw (3) for reuse. 2. Install the stock fastener in the rear inner cover. Place a locating washer over the fastener with the rounded side facing toward the hole in the primary chain case. 3. Slide the rear inner cover into place and loosely secure it with the stock fastener. 1 is06416 1. Acorn nut Figure 2. Fasten Front And Rear Inner Primary Covers Together 4. See Figure 2. Position the front inner cover over the rear inner cover and make sure that the hole in the front cover fits over the threaded stud in the rear cover. Secure the covers together with the acorn nut installed finger tight. 5. See Figure 3 and Table 1. Place the new 4.25 inch (5) and 1-1/2 inch (4) screws in the front inner primary cover. Place locating washers (6) over the fasteners with the rounded side of the washer facing toward the hole in the primary chain case. 6. Tighten all three screws to 108-120 in-lbs (12.2-13.6 Nm) . 7. Tighten the acorn nut. 8. Push the Allen hole plugs (7) into the four exposed screw heads

Yamaha YZ 250F Camshafts REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 30-12-2011

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Remove the 4 bolts that hold the exhaust cam cap in place, lift the cam cap off. It may be necessary to pry very lightly on the cap to lift it off its dowel pins. Do not use the cam lobes as the pry point. Be careful not to drop the dowels and also be careful to not lose the half moon shaped retainer for the bearing under the cam cap. Remove the 6 bolts that hold the intake camshaft cap and lift the cam cap off the camshaft, again, be careful to not drop the retainer or dowels. Lift the intake camshaft out of its pocket in the cylinder head casting. Remove the cam chain from the sprocket, set the stock camshaft aside. Lift the exhaust cam out of its pocket in the cylinder head casting and remove the chain from the sprocket. Do not drop the cam chain, dangle it over the side of the engine while keeping slight upward pressure on the chain to maintain its position on the drive sprocket on the crankshaft. Fit the half moon shaped retainers in the grooves of the Hot Cams camshaft bearings to ensure good fit, set retainers aside for the time. Using assembly lube, lube the shim buckets, bearing surfaces for the camshafts in the cylinder head, and pack some in the camshaft bearings. Set the exhaust cam into the cylinder head casting while at the same time fitting the cam chain over the sprocket. Make sure that you keep all the cam chain slack to the back of the engine. The cam chain pulls the camshaft sprockets in a counter clockwise direction and the slack of the chain must be kept on the cam chain tensioner side of the engine. The exhaust cam has two timing marks on it. When correctly installed one mark will be at the 9 o’clock position and the other mark will be at the 12 o’clock position. When correctly timed the mark at 9 o’clock will be aligned with the valve cover gasket surface. Repeat the above process for the intake camshaft. Again, make sure you keep the chain slack to the cam chain tensioner side of the engine. Check to be sure the crankshaft is still at TDC. The intake cam has two timing marks also. One at 12 o’clock and the other at 3 o’clock. When both cams are installed correctly, the valve cover gasket surface will form a straight line through the exhaust timing mark at 9 o’clock and the intake timing mark at 3 o’clock

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HONDA GL1800 TIMING CHAIN COVER INSPECTION NUT INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 28-02-2011

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GL1800 TIMING CHAIN COVER INSPECTION NUT 1. Place bike on center stand. 2. Remove the inspection nut on the bike using a 17mm socket. 3. Remove the rubber o-ring seal from the inspection nut and place on new inspection nut. 4. Install the new inspection nut using the 17mm socket.

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