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KAWASAKI TERYX EFI Installation Instructions.

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 08-02-2011

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Basic Tuning Adjustments 1. The following instructions are for basic fuel tuning. Modes 1,2, & 3 are allowing adjustments to increase and decrease the amount of fuel the engine needs. Modes 4 & 5 are for advanced tuning only. DO NOT change modes 4 & 5 when doing basic tuning! 2. To help understand how these modes work, you can think of them as if you were working with a carburetor. 3. Remember each time you push the MODE button you will be advancing to the next mode. Push the MODE button once and you are now in mode 1, push the MODE button again and you are now in mode 2 and so on. You only need to be concerned with modes 1, 2 & 3 for basic tuning. Modes 4 & 5 are for advanced tuning ONLY. 4. If you need to go back to the settings that were pre programmed when you purchased the controller, just look at the picture in each mode, the colored square represents where the settings were when you purchased the controller. 5. Looking at the controller you will see eight lights with numbers under them, this is what you need to look at when changing settings. The #1 light on the controller represents the leanest setting. TRINITY RACING DOES NOT TAKE REPONSIBLITY FOR DAMAGES THAT MAY OCCUR DURING OPERATION OF YOUR VEHICLE UNDER IMPROPER JET SETTINGS. IT IS THE FINAL RESPONSIBLITY OF THE OWNER/RIDER TO ADJUST JETTING TO SPECIFIC RIDING CONDITIONS AND ELEVATION BEFORE RIDING. WARNING! 1.877.FAS TOYS 2.Remove both seats 6. Re-install engine cover and seats. 6. Mode 1 green light represents idle & cruise adjustment (i.e. pilot jet). To adjust this setting push the MODE button once and then push the plus or minus buttons to adjust fuel as needed. 7. Mode 2 yellow light represents an additional amount of fuel added during acceleration (i.e. needle position). To adjust this setting, push MODE twice and then push the plus or minus buttons to adjust fuel as needed. 12 34 56 7 8 12 34 56 7 8 8. Mode 3 red light represents more fuel being added during full throttle (i.e. main jet). To adjust this setting push the MODE button three times and then push the plus or minus buttons to adjust fuel as needed. 9. If you are confident about your tuning skills and feel you need to adjust other parameters, see Advanced Tuning. 12 34 56 7 8 Advanced Tuning Adjustments 1. Advance tuning has two modes in which to adjust. They are called mode 4 and mode 5. In basic tuning, you are changing the amount of fuel that the engine receives, but with advance tuning, you will be changing when the fuel will be available. In each mode you can adjust how soon the fuel delivery occurs. 2. Mode 4 yellow light and blue light represent when the fuel delivery is available during partial throttle acceleration. To adjust this setting, push the MODE button four times and then push the plus or minus buttons to adjust fuel as needed. Only the yellow light will be changing.

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Harley Davidson Five Speed Transmissions Hydraulic Clutch Modification

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 31-10-2010

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Hydraulic Clutch Modification for Harley Davidson With Champion Reverse Gear 1 1.1 Install Reverse Gear Assembly to gearbox. 1.2 Remove clutch cover (left side). 1.3 Remove Release Plate (clutch adjustment) and Push Rods. 1.4 Install Hydraulic Clutch Release Cover with supplied spacer and two gaskets. 1.5 Bleed clutch system. NOTE: When bleeding clutch system, lever feel will become hard, do not force lever because piston is at end of travel.(Continue Bleeding) 2 2.1 Install Push Rod. 2.2 Push the rod into clutch assembly to force hydraulic piston to its start position. Push the rod hard until the clutch cylinder is fully compressed. This is the start position. 2.3 Install Hydraulic Clutch Throw-Out Bearing Holder and bearing to push rod. Do not install circlip at this time. 2.4 If the throw-out bearing holder does not fully seat into the Pressure Plate (Figure 2.4), proceed to step 2.5. If shaft is too short then use throw-out bearing holder from Champion Reverse Gear Kit, skip next step and proceed to 3.0 2.5 Measure distance between bearing holder and pressure plate (ensure that push rod is pushed in) Figure 2.4 2.6 Remove bearing holder and push rod, reinstall bearing holder until seated (without push rod). Measure distance from pressure plate to bearing holder. Figure 2.6 2.7 Add measurements taken in steps 2.5 and 2.6 2.8 Add 0.090″ to total of step 2.7 (allowance for clutch plate wear). Measurement should be approximately 1/8″. 2.9 Measure push rod length. 2.10 Subtract measurement of step 2.8 from measurement of step 2.9 (push rod length). This measurement represents the amount of material to be removed from ball end of push rod. (Step 2.11)

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YAMAHA XV1700 PCR/ XV1700 PCRC OWNER'S MANUAL

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 02-12-2010

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High beam indicator light “” 2. Right turn signal indicator light “” 3. Fuel level warning light “” 4. Engine trouble warning light “” 5. Left turn signal indicator light “” 6. Neutral indicator light “” 1. Speedometer INSTRUMENT AND CONTROL FUNCTIONS 3-4 3 EAU04436 Tachometer unit The electric tachometer allows the rider to monitor the engine speed and keep it within the ideal power range. The tachometer unit is equipped with the following: ● an odometer (which shows the total distance traveled) ● two tripmeters (which show the distance traveled since they were last set to zero) ● a fuel reserve tripmeter (which shows the distance traveled since the fuel level warning light came on) ● a meter lighting control ● a clock ● a self diagnosis device NOTE: ● Be sure to turn the key to “ON” before using the “SELECT” and “RESET” buttons. ● To switch the odometer, the trip- meters and the fuel reserve trip- meter displays between kilometers and miles, press the “SELECT” button for at least two seconds. ECA00123 CAUTION: Do not operate the engine in the tachometer red zone. If operated in the red zone, the tachometer segments will start flashing to notify the rider. Red zone: 5,000 r/min and above 1. Tachometer 2. Clock 3. Odometer/tripmeter/fuel reserve tripmeter 4. “RESET” button 5. “SELECT” button 1. Tachometer red zone
INSTRUMENT AND CONTROL FUNCTIONS 3-5 3 Odometer and tripmeter modes Pushing the “SELECT” button switches the display between the odometer mode”ODO” and the tripmeter modes “TRIP 1″ and “TRIP 2″ in the following order: ODO→ TRIP 1 → TRIP 2 → ODO If the fuel level warning light comes on (see page 3-2), the odometer display will automatically change to the fuel reserve tripmeter mode “TRIP F” and start counting the distance traveled from that point. In that case, pushing the “SELECT” button switches the display between the various tripmeter and odometer modes in the following order: TRIP F → TRIP 1 → TRIP 2 → ODO → TRIP F To reset a tripmeter, select it by pushing the “SELECT” button, and then push the “RESET” button for at least one second. If you do not reset the fuel reserve tripmeter manually, it will reset itself automatically and the display will return to the prior mode after refueling and traveling 3mi (5km). Meter lighting control mode 1. Turn the key to “OFF”. 2. Push and hold the “SELECT” but- ton. 3. Turn the key to “ON”, and then after five seconds, release the “SELECT” button. 4. Push the “RESET” button to select the desired brightness. 5. Push the “SELECT” button to set the brightness level. 6. Turn the key to “OFF”. NOTE: When adjusting the meter lighting, the odometer display will indicate the brightness level. Clock mode To set the clock: 1. Push the “SELECT” button and “RESET” button together for at least two seconds. 2. When the hour digits start flashing, push the “RESET” button to set the hours. 3. Push the “SELECT” button, and the minute digits will start flashing. 4. Push the “RESET” button to set the minutes. 5. Push the “SELECT” button and then release it to start the clock. NOTE: ● After setting the clock, be sure to push the “SELECT” button before turning the key to “OFF”, otherwise the clock will not be set. ● To set the clock after the battery has been disconnected, first set the time to 1:00 AM, and then set the clock to the correct time

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Kawasaki ZX-14 TITANIUM SIDEWINDER EXHAUST Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 30-04-2012

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STEP 2: PRE-ASSEMBLE HEADERS, COLLECTOR, AND MID-PIPE TO INSURE PROPER FIT BETWEEN ALL PARTS: Brock’s Performance pre-assembles the exhaust system before it is shipped to your door. We ask you to this to insure there were no shipping damages incurred before you start disassembling your bike. A lot of our customers use WD-40 applied to the joints to ease assembly, adjustment, and/or disassembly. STEP 3: REMOVE ZX-14 RIGHT AND LEFT DASHBOARDS : The right and left dashboards are held in place by three fasteners (Figure 4) which are removed with a No. 4 hex head wrench. Note that all dashboard and fairing fasteners have thin plastic washers located between the fastener head and the plastic body work. Be careful to save the plastic washers. To avoid losing fasteners and washers it is recommended that the installer place them in a container once they are removed. STEP 4: REMOVE ZX-14 LOWER FAIRING : The lower fairing consists of separate right and left side panels, both of which should be removed. The locations of the bolts and plastic push pins holding the fairing in place are illustrated in Figure 5. Details are provided below. • The plastic push pins is located in the front of the fairing (3) , aft of the front tire, and holds the left and right panels together. Remove the plastic push pins using a thin blade screw driver to lift the rivet head. Then pull the rivet from the bodywork. This will release the right panel from the left panel. • Remove the lower fairing fasteners & washers (1 & 2) on the right fairing panel with a No. 5 hex head wrench. • Remove the upper fairing fasteners & washers (4, 5, & 6) on the right fairing panel with a No. 4 hex head wrench. • Note that the top of the fairing incorporates slots into which hooks at the bottom of the mid fairing (red bodywork) fit. These hooks are shown in Figure 8. Pull the bottom of the lower fairing panel away from the bike and then downward to clear the hooks from the slots. The right side lower fairing should now separate easily from the mid-fairing. • Repeat for the left side lower fairing

HONDA GL1100 Manifold Cover Installation Manual

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 04-03-2011

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Note: Read instructions carefully before installing. 1. Start with right side. Remove (2) screws and washers from each manifold tube base. NOTE: Save this hardware it will be reused. 2. Remove (4) screws and washers that hold chrome wire guide to carbs. 3. Apply a small amount of grease to the No. 10 washers (4). This will help to hold them in place on installation. 4. Place the No. 10 washers over the threaded holes in the carb base. 5. Reinstall the OEM wire guide and carefully insert 20 mm screws and lock washers. NOTE: The screws DO NOT go through the tube on the manifold covers. 6. Sandwich the tabs on the manifold cover between the carb top and the wire guide. Finger tight the screws. NOTE: Route spark plug wires OVER THE TOP of the wire guide. 7. Lift bottom of manifold cover and insert aluminum washers removed in step 1. Put smooth of washers toward manifold. You may have to use small amount of grease on these washers also to position them. 8. Position manifold cover and reinstall (2) OEM screws removed in step 1 9. REPEAT STEPS FOR THE OTHER SIDE.

HARLEY DAVIDSON XL BRAIDED FRONT BRAKE LINE KITS INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 30-03-2011

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REMOVAL Direct contact of D.O.T. 5 brake fluid with eyes can cause eye irritation, swelling, and redness. Avoid eye contact. In case of eye contact flush with large amounts of water and get medical attention. Swallowing large amounts of D.O.T. 5 brake fluid can cause digestive discomfort. If swallowed, obtain medical attention. Use in well ventilated area. KEEP OUT OF REACH OF CHILDREN. (00144a) Direct contact of D.O.T. 4 brake fluid with eyes can cause irritation. Avoid eye contact. In case of eye contact flush with large amounts of water and get medical attention. Swallowing large amounts of D.O.T. 4 brake fluid can cause digestive discomfort. If swallowed, obtain medical attention. Use in well ventilated area. KEEP OUT OF REACH OF CHILDREN. (00240a) D.O.T. 4 brake fluid will damage painted and body panel surfaces it comes in contact with. Always use caution and protect surfaces from spills whenever brake work is performed. Failure to comply can result in cosmetic damage. (00239b) 1. Drain the brake fluid following the instructions in the service manual. Dispose of waste properly. To prevent accidental vehicle start-up, which could cause death or serious injury, disconnect negative (-) battery cable before proceeding. (00048a) To prevent accidental vehicle start-up, which could cause death or serious injury, remove main fuse before proceeding. (00251b) 2. Disconnect the battery, negative (-) cable first or remove the main fuse. Follow the instructions in the service manual 3. Remove bolt and two sealing washers to disconnect brake line fitting from master cylinder. Discard sealing washers, but save bolt for installation. 4. Remove bolt and two sealing washers to disconnect brake line fitting from front brake caliper. Discard sealing washers, but save bolt for installation. 5. Carefully make note of brake line routing, then remove existing brake line. NOTE This kit contains clamps and cable straps to either replace the original equipment clamps and cable straps being removed or to add additional brake line support. INSTALLATION Install proper length brake lines. Incorrect brake line length can adversely affect motorcycle operation, which could cause loss of control resulting in death or serious injury. (00325a) Replace brake line gaskets. Re-using original gaskets can cause brake failure and loss of vehicle control, which could result in death or serious injury. (00318a) Avoid leakage. Be sure gaskets, banjo bolt(s) and brake line are clean and undamaged before assembly. (00323a) 1. Position new sealing washers from kit on each side of hydraulic brake fittings (banjo fittings). Small ID washers are for caliper end, large ID washers are for master cylinder end. 2. Insert bolts (removed earlier) through washers and fittings. 3. Hold new braided brake line in position and install bolts into master cylinder and caliper. Tighten only enough to keep banjo fitting in the same orientation as the stock banjo fitting. 4. Verify there is no twist in the brake line. Adjust brake line if necessary. 5. Install clamps from kit by wrapping clamp around braided brake line at each of the clamp mounting locations. Verify clamps are oriented the same as the stock clamps. Install clamp screws but do not tighten. 6. Check entire length of braided brake line: a. Be sure brake line is not twisted. b. Turn handlebars fully-left and right while checking to make sure brake line does not contact any vehicle components. c. Be sure brake line length between clamps is sufficient. 7. Adjust brake line if necessary. 8. Tighten caliper and master cylinder banjo bolts to 20-25 ft-lbs (27-34 Nm) .

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HONDA TRX 650 RINCON 4X4, TRX 680 Rincon BLADE HARDWARE MOUNTING REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION MANUALS

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 26-12-2011

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Push tube/ Swivel/ Blade Assembly Instructions 1. Install the blade swivel (15) onto the front of the push tube (14) using the 1/2″ shoulder bolt (4), two 1/2″ washers (5), and a 3/8″ Nylock nut (3) from the bolt bag per diagram #1. Make sure the flat washers seat properly on the bottom of the shoulder bolt while tightening the nut. Make sure the blade turns freely. 2. Remove the 2 bottom flanged nuts (I) from the u-bolt (D) and 2 from the 3/8″ bolts (H) on the blade position pin assembly (23). Run the 2 top flanged nuts up the threads of the u-bolt. Place the blade position pin assembly on the push tube as shown in the Diagram, sliding the blade position pin through one of the oval holes on the swivel and through the rear blade position pin support bracket on the push tube. 3. Re-install the u-bolt and 3/8″ bolts and flanged nuts per the Diagram. On the u-bolt, thread the bottom nuts up until they are flush with the bottom of the threads then run the top ones down, making sure the bottom nuts remain flush with the bottom of the u-bolt. Tighten all 4 bottom nuts. 4. Remove the two shoulder bolts (18) from the pivot point brackets on the back of the blade (1). Attach the blade to the swivel by sliding the ears on each side of the swivel into the pivot point brackets on the blade, reinstall the two shoulder bolts and Nylock nut (3) and tighten. 5. Hook the blade springs (6) to the two round holes on either side of the 5 oval holes on the swivel. Hook the eyebolts through the other end of the springs, push the eyebolts through the spring attaching points on the back of the blade and install 3/8″ Nylock nuts (3). Spring tension may be increased by tightening both Nylock nuts on the eyebolts evenly. 6. Install the blade stops (16) with the two 3/8″ x 1″ bolts (17) and 3/8″ nuts (3) per the Diagram. Rotating the stops allows you to change the blade pitch to suit changing conditions or materials

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HARLEY DAVIDSON ROAD KING SOLO BUCKET AND PASSENGER PILLION INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 10-02-2011

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Installation SOLO SADDLE ONLY 1. Remove stock seat and grabstrap according to applicable Service Manual instructions. 2. Road King standard models . Remove and save the stock screws and seat mount bracket at the back of the rider solo seat. 2000 and later models . Remove the retainer washer from the stud plate and replace with two black retainer washers (2). Be careful not to allow stud plate to fall through the fender. 3. Road King standard models . Install stock solo seat mount bracket using two stock screws saved in Step 2. Road King Classic Custom models . Install solo seat mount bracket onto back of solo seat using bracket and screws included in Mount Kit Number 52903-01. 4. Install seat by sliding front of seat into seat holder bracket. Pull up on the nose of the seat to verify that the seat is securely installed. After installing seat, pull upward on front of seat to be sure it is in locked position. While riding, a loose seat can shift causing loss of control, which could result in death or serious injury. (00070a) 5. 1999 and later models . Install 1/4 in. star washers (6), spacers (4) and acorn nuts (3) onto rear mount studs. Torque to 72 in-lbs (8.13 Nm). 1998 and earlier models . Install 5/16 in. star washers (5) and 5/16-18 x 3/4 in. buttonhead screws (1) into stock mount nuts. Torque to 17 ft-lbs (23 Nm). SOLOAND PILLION 1. Remove stock seat and grabstrap according to applicable Service Manual instructions. Retain all hardware for later use. 2. Road King standard models . Remove and save the stock screws and seat mount bracket at the back of the rider seat. 3. Road King standard models. Install stock seat mount bracket onto new solo seat using two screws saved in Step 2. Road King Classic Custom models. Install solo seat mount bracket onto back of solo seat using bracket and screws included in Mount Kit Number 52903-01. 4. 1999 and later Road King standard models . Secure the rear mount bracket with stock mushroom nuts (10) and two 1/4 in. star washers (6). Torque to 72 in-lbs (8.13 Nm). 1998 and earlier Road King standard models . Install solo seat by sliding front of seat into holder bracket on bike. Secure the rear mount bracket with the two mushroom screws (11) and two 5/16 in. star washers (5). Torque to 17 ft-lbs (23 Nm). Road King Classic Custom models . Mount Kit Number 52903-01 is required for installation. Install solo seat (7) by sliding front of seat into holder bracket on bike. • 1999 and later models . Using Mount Kit Number 52903-01, secure the rear mount bracket with the two mushroom nuts (10) and two 1/4 in. star washers (6). Torque to 72 in-lbs (8.13 Nm). • 1998 and earlier models . Using Mount Kit Number 52903-01, secure the rear mount bracket with the two mushroom screws (11) and two 5/16 in. star washers (5). Torque to 17 ft-lbs (23 Nm)

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TRIUMPH 750 BIG BORE CYLINDER AND PISTON SET FOR 650 TWINS INSTALLATION

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Filed Under (Triumph) by admin on 29-10-2010

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Step 1. Unpack your big bore kit and inspect the contents. There should be the following: 1. Cylinder x l 2. piston with wristpin x 2 3. Hepolite piston ring set x l 4. Special big bore head gasket Step 2. Thoroughly wash the cylinder bores with soap and water. Do not use solvent! Dry bores with air or a lint free towel and let completely air dry. This step is most important and will greatly extend the life of the pistons. Step 3. Following the procedure outlined in your service manual, drain the fuel tank, remove the exhaust system, fuel tank and carburetors. Have a catch basin handy to capture any fuel that may spill from the carburetors, as fuel is highly flammable and can be ignited by a dryer pilot light etc. from a long distance. Clean up any spilled fuel immediately and dispose of away from any source of ignition. Store the fuel tank in a well vented area, outdoors is best, in the event your fuel taps should leak. Step 4. Remove the rocker boxes by slacking the 9 head bolts a little at a time in a star pattern. Remove the 6 nuts at the front and back of the head. Remove the 4 corner rocker box bolts. Remove the head bolts and rocker boxes. Remove the push rods. Examine the push rods to insure they are straight and the ends are tight. Replace any suspect push rod. Step 5. Remove the cylinder head. Now would be a good time for guide and valve renewal. This is best left to an expert. More cylinder heads have been ruined by auto machine shops than by hard use. If you do not have a qualified shop in your area please call for a referral. Step 6. Remove the push rod tubes and the cylinder base nuts. Clip rubber bands around the top of the lifters to keep them from dropping into the crankcase. Have a few lint free rags handy. Bring the pistons to the top of the stroke and begin lifting off the cylinder. If the cylinder is hard to lift off, thread a nut on one of the base studs and use a tire lever to pry against the bottom fin close to its base using the stud as a fulcrum. After partially raising the cylinder stuff the crankcase mouth with rags to keep any carbon or broken rings from entering the crankcase. These will remain in place until step 12. Step 7. Leaving the rags in the crankcase remove the wrist pin circlips from the pistons and discard. Heat the piston and gently push the wrist pin out. Do not use force as this can damage the connecting rod or its bearings. Be sure to account for all the clips as one left in the crankcase can do extensive damage. Step 8. Clean all gasket surfaces to remove any traces of the old gaskets. Use Pennatex gasket remover if needed. Be very careful not to scratch the gasket surface or to allow any gasket particles to enter the crankcase. Even a small bit of gasket can stop the oil pump from working! Step 9. Note the direction and location of the lifters. These must be replaced in the same position as when removed. Remove the lifter blocks from the old cylinder. Start by removing the small retaining bolts and washers. The lifter blocks are extremely fragile and are easily broken. They are also very expensive so great care must be taken in this step! Triumph special tool 222-616008 is advisable here. Apply pressure to the center of the block only. Do not press against the tangs that locate the lifter! A tool can be fabricated using two dowels to locate in the lifter holes. Step 10. Clean and examine the lifters and camshaft faces. Clean the lifter blocks and remove the sealing oring under the locating flange. Replace these with the new orings in the gasket set. Apply a smear of gasket sealant to the lifter block oring and press into the new cylinder. Be sure the lifter block is parallel with the bores and the grooved block is on the exhaust side. Apply a small amount of assembly oil to the lifters and replace in the exact position they came from

2008 Kawasaki ZG1400 Concours ABS Front 3-Line Kit and FK003D625R Single Line Rear INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 29-01-2011

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Step 1: Identify the key components that complete our front brake line kit: You should have three (3) hoses, one (1) double banjo bolt, and two (2) single banjo bolts There are also a total of nine (9) washers and (3) brass conic inversors. Seven (7) washers and two (2) inversors will be used; the rest are spares. If you have purchased a rear kit as well, locate the following additional pieces: One (1) hose with bracket and c-clip attached, one (1) single banjo bolt, two (2) brass inversors and three (3) washers. You will use one (1) “olive” conic inversor and two (2) washers, the rest are spares. Step 2: To ensure no paint damage from a brake fluid spill, completely cover the front end of the bike. This process can be messy, and brake fluid WILL drip! Step 3: After drying out the OEM brake system, uninstall stock hoses. On the front brake line kit, we are replacing three hoses and their respective blocks (see pictures 1-2 for blocks) . For the rear, we are replacing one hose from the master cylinder to the ABS hard line. Take note of how the stock system was routed, in case you need to reinstall it. Step 4: Locate Line A – This will travel from the master cylinder to the ABS Junction. (See picture 3) You will use a single banjo bolt and two washers at the master cylinder, and an “olive” inversor to thread female end to hard pipe for incoming ABS (right side). * We have replaced the block at the upper triple clamp with a c-clip; please use your stock bolt to thread this in. (See picture 4) Locate Line B – This will travel from the ABS Junction to the right caliper. First, thread the female end to the hard pipe for outgoing ABS (left side). There will be a bolt from the OEM blocks at ABS Junction; please use this to thread c-clips into frame as shown in picture 5 . There is another bolt/OEM block located at the lower triple clamp; please use this to thread the c-clip in as seen in picture 6. Locate Line C – This will cross over the front fender using OEM holders, from right caliper to left caliper. Thread caliper banjos from Line B and C using the following sequence: double banjo hex, washer, 40- degree banjo from Line C, washer, 20-degree banjo from Line B, washer, caliper. Please see pictures 7 and 8 for reference. Thread single banjo bolt into left caliper, using two washers and 40-degree banjo. If applicable, locate rear Line D – this will travel from the rear master cylinder to the hard line for ABS. Thread the hard pipe into female end using a “olive” inversor, and attach bracket to swingarm as seen in picture 9 . Use the bolt from the holder for ABS hose, and sit our bracket on top of the OEM holder. Using the bolt from the OEM ABS hose holder in location shown in picture 10 , attach the c-clip on top of holder and tighten. Finally, thread 30-degree banjo in caliper using the following sequence: single banjo hex, washer, banjo, washer, caliper

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