putting a wiring harness off of a 600 suzuki on a gs500 suzuki bike

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2002-2005 Honda VFR800/A Wire Harness Replacement Manual

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 21-04-2011

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If the 18P (light blue) connector is in abnormal condition as shown below, contact TechLine at (800) 421-1900, option 9. FRONT SUB-HARNESS REPLACEMENT 1. Remove the front sub-harness from the cowl stay hooks. Disconnect all the electrical components from the front sub-harness. 2. Temporarily set the main wire harness aside, and disconnect the 6P (natural) con- nector. Then, carefully remove the front sub-harness. 3. Install the new front sub-harness by con- necting the 14P (natural) and 18P (light blue) connectors. NOTE: For routing specifications, refer to the WIRING & HARNESS ROUTING SECTION on pages 7-8. 4. Attach the front sub-harness on the cowl stay hooks. Make sure the front sub-harness is routed elow the main sub-harness. ABNORMAL CONDITION STAY HOOKS 6P (NATURAL) CONNECTOR FRONT UB-HARNESS 14P (NATURAL) CONNECTOR 18P (LIGHT BLUE) CONNECTOR FRONT SUB-HARNESSSTAY HOOK Page 4 VFR800/A #4 4 of 12 NOVEMBER 2007 5. Place the front sub-harness between the radiator and the frame, and below the rec- tifier. Be careful not to damage the front sub-harness or other components. 6. Re-connect the front sub-harness to the 6P (natural) connector. 7. Secure the main wire harness and the front sub-harness using the longer wire band. 8. Secure the main wire harness and the upper side of the front sub-harness using the shorter wire band. Adjust the wire har- ness located within the frame and the radi- ator hose accordingly. 9. Secure the main wire harness fuse box to the front sub-harness using the shorter wire band. FRONT SUB-HARNESS STAY HOOK MAIN-HARNESS FRONT SUB-HARNESS FRONT SUB-HARNESS 6P CONNECTOR (Male) 6P CONNECTOR (Female) WIRE BAND (LONG) WIRE BAND (SHORT)
WIRE BAND (LONG) WIRE BAND (SHORT) MAIN WIRE HARNESS FUSE BO

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TOYOTA COROLLA 1984-2006 VEHICLE WIRING VEHICLE WIRING REMOVAL

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Filed Under (Toyota Manuals) by admin on 04-10-2011

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IRING INFORMATION: 1984 Toyota Corolla FWD WIRE WIRE COLOR WIRE LOCATION 12V CONSTANT WIRE WHITE OR WHITE/RED Ignition Harness STARTER WIRE BLACK/WHITE Ignition Harness IGNITION WIRE BLACK/YELLOW Ignition Harness SECOND IGNITION WIRE BLACK/ORANGE Ignition Harness ACCESSORY WIRE BLUE/RED Ignition Harness POWER DOOR LOCK (-) BLUE/WHITE Harness In Driver’s Kick Panel POWER DOOR UNLOCK (-) BLUE/RED Harness In Driver’s Kick Panel PARKING LIGHTS (+) DK. GREEN Harness In Driver’s Kick Panel PARKING LIGHTS (-) LT. GREEN Harness At Steering Column HEADLIGHTS (-) RED/WHITE Harness At Steering Column DOOR TRIGGER (-) RED/WHT OR BLK/WHT Harness At Fuse Box TRUNK TRIGGER COMMON WITH DOORS (Hatchback Only) TACHOMETER WIRE BLACK At Ignition Coil BRAKE WIRE (+) GREEN/WHITE Brake Pedal Switch HORN TRIGGER (-) GREEN/RED Steering Column LEFT FRONT WINDOW UP GREEN/BLACK At Driver Window Motor Inside Door LEFT FRONT WINDOW DOWN BLUE/RED At Driver Window Motor Inside Door RIGHT FRONT WINDOW UP GREEN Harness In Driver’s Kick From Driver Door RIGHT FRONT WINDOW DOWN BLUE/WHITE Harness In Driver’s Kick From Driver Door LEFT REAR WINDOW UP RED/BLACK Harness In Driver’s Kick From Driver Door LEFT REAR WINDOW DOWN RED/YELLOW Harness In Driver’s Kick From Driver Door RIGHT REAR WINDOW UP RED/BLUE Harness In Driver’s Kick From Driver Door RIGHT REAR WINDOW DOWN BLUE/BLACK Harness In Driver’s Kick From Driver Doo

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HARLEY DAVIDSON ENGINE GUARD-MOUNTED FOG LAMP KIT INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 19-02-2011

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VRSC models: See Figure 3. Place the wire harness from the kit into the area in front of the battery. Do not block the air intake opening. All models except VRSC and 2004 and later XL models: See Figure 4. Install the wire harness from the kit. Place the relay in the opening of the frame under the seat area, and route the long leg of the harness forward along the frame backbone. 2004 and later XL models: See Figure 5. Remove the nuts retaining the ignition module (1) and temporarily reposition the module as shown. Place the relay in the recessed area (2) of the oil reservoir. Install the ignition module. Route the long leg of the harness along the frame backbone. CAUTION 1 WARNING -J02798 Figure 3. Install Fog Lamp Wiring Harness (VRSC Models) Place harness into this area but do not block air intake Air intake i04372 Battery Figure 4. Install Fog Lamp Wiring Harness (All Models Except VRSC. Dyna Model Shown) i02286.eps 1. Relay 2. Ground stud 3. Long leg of harness 2 1 3 2 of 6 Figure 2. Fog Lamp Wiring Harness Figure 1. Fog Lamp Schematic Ground To low beam To main circuit breaker Fuse N.O. Contact Switch Coil Fog lamp Fog lamp i01360a Relay 1. Fuse block 2. Relay 3. Connector to power 4. Ring terminals (Ground) 5. To fog lamps 6. Unterminated wire to low beam 7. Switch with boot and bracket 4 2 5 6 7 1 3 i05708 5. All 2003 and earlier models and VRSC: Cut the connector from the white power lead, and replace it with the ring terminal supplied in the kit. 6. All 2003 and earlier models, except VRSC: Connect the white wire with the ring terminal to the copper stud (BAT) terminal of the main circuit breaker. All 2004 and later models, except VRSC: Connect the white wire with connector to the B+ connector on the harness. All VRSC: Connect the white power lead to the battery positive terminal. 7. See Service Part illustration. Connect the black ground wires with the two ring terminals to the ground stud under the seat, or at any good electrical ground point. Secure the kit harness to the adjacent harnesses with cable straps (item 6) from the kit. When routing wires through the front fork, make sure the wires are clear of moving parts, to avoid pinching and possible short circuits. 8. Route the forward end of the harness past the steering head, and route the lamp switch leg of the harness along the left side of the handlebar to the clutch control. 9. See the Service Parts illustration. Obtain the switch mounting bracket (item 11) from the kit. Unscrew the boot from the lamp switch, and install the switch into the bracket. Replace the boot on the switch. NOTE If the boot becomes worn or damaged, or is lost, replace the boot to prevent moisture from entering the switch. See the Service Parts illustration (Item 12). 10. See Figure 6. Remove the lower screw (1) and washer from the clutch control clamp (3), and install the lamp switch and bracket assembly (2). Install the screw and washer and tighten to 60-80 in-lbs (7-9 Nm). 11. See the Service Parts illustration. Secure the lamp switch leg of the harness to the handlebar using the wire harness retainers already on the bike. Snap the retainers into the holes in the handlebar. 12. Remove the headlamp assembly. See HEADLAMP – REMOVAL instructions for the correct model in the Service Manual. CAUTION 3 of 6 -J02798 Figure 6. Install the Lamp Switch on the Clutch Control Clamp i04370 3 1 1. Lower clamp screw 2. Lamp switch and bracket assembly 3. Clutch control clamp 2 Figure 5. Install the Wiring Harness (2004 and Later Models) i05712 3

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HARLEY DAVIDSON BATTERY CHARGING HARNESS (THREE-PIN) INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 11-02-2011

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1. Follow the instructions in your Owner’s Manual to remove the seat and any other components (side covers, etc.) necessary to provide access to the battery. 2. Refer to the applicable view in Figure 1 for your model. Break the battery negative (-) connection by removing the hardware assembly from the negative battery terminal. 3. Break the positive (+) battery connection by removing the hardware assembly from the positive battery terminal. 4. Clean the battery terminals and cable connectors using a wire brush or sandpaper to remove any oxidation. 5. Apply a light coating of Harley-Davidson electrical contact lubricant (Part Number 99861-02) to the battery terminals, cable connectors, battery charging harness ring terminals and connector located under the weather- shield cap. Connect positive (+) battery cable first. If positive (+) cable should contact ground with negative (-) cable connected, the resulting sparks can cause a battery explosion, which could result in death or serious injury. (00068a) 6. Refer to the view in Figure 1 used for disassembly. Install the positive (RED) lead of the harness to the positive (+) battery post following the sequence shown. • On 1999 and earlier models (with original equipment), torque the positive (+) terminal post bolt to 40 in-lbs (4.5 Nm). • On 2000 and later models (with original equipment), torque the positive (+) terminal post bolt to 60-96 in-lbs (6.8-10.9 Nm). 7. Attach the negative (BLACK) lead of the harness to the negative (-) battery post following the sequence shown. • On 1999 and earlier models (with original equipment), torque the negative (-) terminal post bolt to 40 in-lbs (4.5 Nm). • On 2000 and later models (with original equipment), torque the negative (-) terminal post bolt to 60-96 in-lbs (6.8-10.9 Nm). Harness Routing Do not route the harness near any moving parts. Contact with moving parts may result in damage to harness. Refer to the following sections to determine the correct harness routing for your model. Be sure to avoid any components that may pinch or cut the harness, and avoid components that radiate heat. Take up any slack in the cable and store out of sight. Secure the harness with cable straps (H-D Part Number 10006), which can be purchased separately from any Harley Davidson Dealer. VRSC Model Harness Routing 1. See Figure 2. Route the battery harness/ connector (3) toward the front of the bike following the upper left frame tube. Cleanly tuck the in-line fuse (2) into the space in front of the battery. 2. Continue to route the harness/ gray connector to the front of the bike and behind the vent cover. Secure the harness with a cable strap and let the connector protrude past the cover for easy access. Trim any excess from the cable strap

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SUZUKI SV 1000 RADIATOR (COOLING SYSTEM) SERVICE MANUAL

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Filed Under (Suzuki) by admin on 26-02-2011

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FI SYSTEM MALFUNCTION CODE AND DEFECTIVE CONDITION MALFUNCTION CODE DETECTED ITEM DETECTED FAILURE CONDITION CHECK FOR COO NO FAULT C11 Camshaft position sen- sor The signal does not reach ECM for more than 3 sec . after receiving the starter signal . The camshaft position sensor wiring and mechanical parts (Camshaft position sensor, intake cam pin, wiring/coupler con- nection) C12 Crankshaft position sensor The signal does not reach ECM for more than 2 sec . after receiving the starter signal . The crankshaft position sensor wiring and mechanical parts (Crankshaft position sensor, wiring/coupler connection) C13 Intake air pressure sensor The sensor should produce following voltage . (0.50 V < sensor voltage < 4 .85 V) Without the above range, C13 is indicated. Intake air pressure sensor, wiring/coupler connection C14 Throttle position sen- sor The sensor should produce following voltage . (0.20 V < sensor voltage < 4 .80 V) Without the above range, C14 is indicated. Throttle position sensor, wiring/coupler connection C15 Engine coolant temperature sensor The sensor voltage should be the following. (0.15 V <_ sensor voltage < 4 .5 V) Without the above range, C15 is indicated. Engine coolant temperature sensor, wiring/coupler connection C21 Intake air temperature sensor The sensor voltage should be the following. (0.15 V < sensor voltage < 4 .5 V) Without the above range, C21 is indicated. Intake air temperature sensor, wiring/coupler connection C22 Atmospheric pressure sensor The sensor voltage should be the following. (0.50 V < sensor voltage < 4 .5 V) Without the above range, C22 is indicated. Atm. pressure sensor, wiring/coupler connection C23 Tip over sensor The sensor voltage should be the following for more than 2 sec . after ignition switch turns ON . (0 .20 V < sensor voltage < 4 .80 V) Without the above value, C23 is indicated. Tip over sensor, wiring/coupler connection C24 or C25 Ignition signalCrankshaft position sensor signal is produced and ECM determines the ignition signal but signal from ignition coil is interrupted continuous by 4 times or more. In this case, the code C24 or C25 is indicated. Ignition coil, wiring/coupler connection, power supply from the battery SERVICING INFORMATION 8 .3 C28 Secondary throttle valve actuator No operating voltage is supplied from the ECM, C28 is indicated. STVA can not operate. STVA lead wire/coupler, STVA C29 Secondary throttle valve position sensor The sensor should produce following voltage . (0.10 V < sensor voltage < 4 .90 V) Without the above range, C29 is indicated . Secondary throttle position sensor, wiring/coupler connection C31 Gear position signalGear position signal voltage should be higher than the following for more than 2 seconds. (Gear position switch voltage >_ 0 .6 V) Without the above value, C31 is indicated. Gear position sensor, wiring/coupler connection, gearshift cam, etc. C32 or C33 Fuel injector Crankshaft position sensor signal is produced and ECM determines the injection signal but fuel injection signal is interrupted continuous by 4 times or more. In this case, the code C32 or C33 is indicated. Injector, wiring/coupler connection, power supply to the injector C41 Fuel pump relay No voltage is applied to fuel pump although fuel pump relay is turned ON, or voltage is applied to fuel pump although fuel pump relay is turned OFF . Fuel pump relay, connecting lead, power source to fuel pump relay C42 Ignition switchIgnition switch signal is not input in the ECM . Ignition switch, lead wire/coupler C44 Heated oxygen sensor (HO2S) [For E-02, 19] During 02 feedback control, 02 sensor voltage is higher or lower than the specification . No signal is detected during engine operation or no electrical power is supplied from the battery . HO2S lead wire/coupler connection Battery voltage supply to the HO2S C49 PAIR control solenoid valve (PAIR valve) When no operating voltage is supplied from the ECM, C49 is indicated. PAIR valve can not operate. PAIR valve lead wire/coupler

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ULTIMA ELECTRONIC WIRING SYSTEM INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 03-03-2011

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1. Find a mounting location for control box. The box is designed to be mounted to the top frame rail between split tanks, but can be mounted in a wide variety of places. If possible the box should be fastened using small screws or rivets but can be wire tied in place. Make sure the location is away from moving parts and heat sources. 2. Pre-fit harness to bike. Attach rear harness to control box. Each wire is color coded and labeled. Route individual wires to their destinations and do not cut to length. Keep wires in a bunch until they need to branch off. Use electrical tape to hold main wire bunch wherever individual or multiple wires branch off. Keep wires away from sharp edges or pinch points and leave extra wire for suspension movement. Repeat this for front and right/left harnesses. All wires not being used should be cut off at connector or secured to prevent shorts. When all wires are routed, cut excess length from ends leaving a couple extra inches for final fitment. 3 Remove pre-fitted harness from bike to install heat shrink tubing. Start at main connector and cut tubing approximately 1 inch past first branch. This will allow the next piece of tubing to slide into the first. Repeat this along entire harness. After encasing harness with heat shrink, use a heat gun to shrink tubing starting at main connectors. Be careful to not burn through the tubing with too much heat. Refit the harness to the bike, attaching to frame where necessary. Cut the ends of harness to length and strip the ends. Attach the terminals to the wire ends and use heat gun to shrink ends. Attach terminals to their destinations. 4. The diagnostic LED’s are used to locate shorts or overloads. Pinched or bare wires, faulty components or too much current draw usually causes these. If an LED is on, turn off the bike, locate and correct the problem, then turn the bike back on. The bike must be turned off to reset the protection circuit. If no LED’s are lit, but turn signals and dash lights do not work properly, make sure the control box main ground has a good connection to the chassis ground. 5. The control box operates the turn signals as listed: First command – flash 10 times then cancel Second command on same side – cancel Second command opposite side – cancel current sequence, flash 10 times then cancel Both sides at same time – hazard, all signals flash Brake switch – flash rear signals three times then stay on for 30 seconds

2008 Suzuki GSXR 600-750 Super bike Kit INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Suzuki) by admin on 29-01-2011

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Step 1: Identify the key components that complete our SUPERBIKE brake line kit: You should have two (2) hoses, one (1) double banjo bolt, and two (2) male adapters with two 1.55mm thick washers. There are also a total of (7) washers. five (5) will be used, and two (2) are spares. We strongly suggest having a professional mechanic install these brake lines; all other installations VOID warranty. Step 2: To ensure no paint damage from a brake fluid spill, completely cover the front end of the bike. This process is messy, and brake fluid WILL drip! Step 3: Uninstall stock hoses; be aware of how the stock system was routed in case you need to re-install it. Step 4: Install the Galfer adapters onto the right and left calipers. Thread each adapter with the two thick crush washers provided into the calipers with one washer, and torque at 12 to 13 ft pounds. Step 5: Install the right and left lines to the calipers, using the shorter line on the right side. These lines will travel from the master cylinder to the calipers; a double banjo bolt is included to run two lines down. The positioning sequence on the master cylinder is as follows: Master cylinder, washer, 90 degree banjo from left line, washer, 90 banjo from right line, washer and double banjo hex. Double banjo bolt torque level is 12 FT Pounds. (For positioning see picture A) Make sure that the 90-degree fittings on each caliper are pointing away from the bike just a little bit (see picture B) . Thread each female end into the adapter, and torque to 6 ½ Ft pounds. Before you proceed to the next step, please check for clearance of the lines. Compress the front end to make sure that the lines are not binding with anything. When the front end is fully extended or fully compressed, double check that the lines are traveling correctly and clear from any obstructions. Once the lines have been checked for clearance, we recommend using (GALFER’S C-CLIP) to bring the lines together about the same level as the lower triple clamp.

Harley-Davidson touring bikes WHEELDOCK EZ-UP Center Stand Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 18-04-2012

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Unlike other center stands, the WHEELDOCK EZ UP stand requires very little effort to operate and can usually be done while still on the bike by simply pushing down on the foot lever with your left foot. Once you feel both feet of the center stand in contact with the ground, transfer your weight up off of the seat and onto the foot lever of the center stand. The stand should rotate under the bike and a bit forward lifting the bike quite easily. CAUTION: Never attempt to raise the bike with a passenger on board, as you will damage the foot lever. You can also raise the bike on the center stand by using the following traditional method: Place the bike on the side stand and step off to the side. From the left side of the bike, push the bike up to the vertical position and press down on the foot lever until both feet of the stand are in contact with the ground. Now apply weight to the foot lever while lifting up on the bike. For cleaning the rear wheel: first place a ½-inch piece of plywood under the stand and use this (beside the bike) method for placing the bike up on the plywood spacer; this will allow the wheel to rotate freely for cleaning. Do not try this while on the bike, as it will require too much foot pressure on the lever. You now have two options to get the bike off of the stand: You can simply rock the bike forward, or put the bike in gear and drive off in most cases as long as you are parked on a flat, level surface. Tips for solving common problems: If you have the correct height stand and you still have difficulty getting the bike up on the stand check the following: the bike must be in neutral, the wheel should be straight forward and not cocked, do not hold the front brake lever and make sure you have 15 lb or more air pressure in the rear suspension. These are the most common problems we encounter.

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Harley-Davidson The WHEELDOCK EZ-UP Center Stand Installation MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 21-03-2012

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Unlike other center stands, the WHEELDOCK EZ UP stand requires very little effort to operate and can usually be done while still on the bike by simply pushing down on the foot lever with your left foot. Once you feel both feet of the center stand in contact with the ground, transfer your weight up off of the seat and onto the foot lever of the center stand. The stand should rotate under the bike and a bit forward lifting the bike quite easily. CAUTION: Never attempt to raise the bike with a passenger on board, as you will damage the foot lever. You can also raise the bike on the center stand by using the following traditional method: Place the bike on the side stand and step off to the side. From the left side of the bike, push the bike up to the vertical position and press down on the foot lever until both feet of the stand are in contact with the ground. Now apply weight to the foot lever while lifting up on the bike. For cleaning the rear wheel: first place a ½-inch piece of plywood under the stand and use this (beside the bike) method for placing the bike up on the plywood spacer; this will allow the wheel to rotate freely for cleaning. Do not try this while on the bike, as it will require too much foot pressure on the lever. You now have two options to get the bike off of the stand: You can simply rock the bike forward, or put the bike in gear and drive off in most cases as long as you are parked on a flat, level surface. Tips for solving common questions: If you have the correct height stand and you still have difficulty getting the bike up on the stand check the following: the bike must be in neutral, the wheel should be straight forward and not cocked, do not hold the front brake lever and make sure you have 15 lb or more air pressure in the rear suspension. These are the most common problems we encounter

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SUZUKI MOTORCYCLES Gsxr 600, Gsxr 750, Gsxr 1000 teak the lead

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Filed Under (Suzuki) by admin on 12-11-2010

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The launch of the sixth generation of Gsxr marked a shift in Suzuki’s emphasis on two fronts. One, the Gsxr 1000 now took the upper hand in the development stakes. Historically, the Gsxr 750 led the march-arriving first, gaining the most recent technology, absorbing the lion’s share of corporate pride-but by 2003 the Gsxr 1000 was in the lead. Two, the Gsxr 1000 represents another, more subtle shift for Suzuki engineering, in which the designers-the lucky guys who get to clothe these amazing machines-have more freedom of expression. With this generation, the designs turned edgier, sharper, more aggressive looking than ever. What’s more, the Gsxr 1000 K3 would be the proving ground for a host of changes brought to the Gsxr 600 and Gsxr 750 for 2004. In fact, nearly every upgrade to the smaller bikes appeared on the Gsxr 1000 a year before. But the real impetus for driving the Gsxr 1000 to the head of development and, indeed, shortening its development cycle was competition both on the track and in the showroom. For the track, it was understood that Superbike racing would revert to allowing 1000 cc four-cylinder bikes in place of the 750s that had been the limit since 1982. In 2002, Yoshimura and Mat Mladin barely lost the AMA Superbike crown to Nicky Hayden aboard the Honda RC5!. But it would be the RC’s swan song of competitiveness with the change to 1000 cc fours. To keep speeds in check, the AMA Superbike rules would require 1000 cc fours to have some additional limitations compared to the twins and triples. For example, “Cylinder heads may be ported and machined, but altering of valve angles will not be permitted; aftermarket valves, springs, retainers, and other valve-train components will be permitted; valves must be stock size and same basic material as original equipment; aftermarket camshafts will be permitted, but earn lift and resulting valve lift must be no greater than stock. “In addition, the “stock crankshaft must be retained, The only allowable modifications are balancing, polishing of bearing surfaces and attachment of accessory drives. Homologated transmission gear sets (one optional set of ratios per approved model) will be permitted. Optional sets will be price-controlled and must be available to any legitimate AMA Superbike competitor. Homologated fuel-injection throttle-body assemblies (one optional type per approved model) and aftermarket airboxes will be permitted. Modifications to throttle bodies will not be permitted. Optional throttle bodies will be price-controlled and must be available to any legitimate AMA Superbike competitor.” The thinking was simple: keep the liter bikes from sucking through massive throttle bodies, and the horsepower might not (and, it was hoped, would not) go through the roof. In preparation for racing, Suzuki moto wanted to make a host of small changes to the Gsxr 1000, but its motivation was also to keep the bike at the forefront of open-class street bikes. Suzuki engineers knew that Honda and Kawasaki were readying all-new models-the CBR 954 RR and the ZX 9 R had long since been vanquished-and rumor had it that Yamaha was ready with yet another push with the R1.It was the right time to make alterations to the Gsxr 1000. Heading the list was, as one might expect, a revised engine.

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