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HARLEY DAVIDSON MULTI-FIT BRAIDED THROTTLE/IDLE CABLE KITS REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 20-03-2011

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REMOVAL To prevent accidental vehicle start-up, which could cause death or serious injury, disconnect negative (-) battery cable before proceeding. (00048a) To prevent accidental vehicle start-up, which could cause death or serious injury, remove main fuse before proceeding. (00251b) 1. Disconnect battery cables, negative (-) cable first or remove the main fuse following the instructions in the service manual. NOTE When performing cable disassembly procedures, make careful notes as to the existing cable routing. Pay special attention to existing cable strap locations before removing so new straps can be installed in the same locations. Do not remove or install the master cylinder assembly without first positioning a 5/32-inch (4 mm) thick insert between the brake lever and lever bracket. Removing or installing the master cylinder assembly without the insert in place may result in damage to the rubber boot and plunger on the front stoplight switch. (00324a) 2. See Figure 1. Place the cardboard insert between the brake lever and lever bracket. 3 2 1 is00825 1. Brake lever 2.5/32 inch (4 mm) cardboard insert 3. Brake lever bracket Figure 1. Install Cardboard Insert 3. See Figure 2. Loosen cable adjuster jam nuts. Turn cable adjusters in until they are as short as possible. This will provide enough slack for easy removal. 3 4 1 2 5 is 02071 1. Upper switch housing 2. Lower switch housing 3. Throttle cable adjuster 4. Idle cable adjuster 5. Adjuster jam nut Figure 2. Handlebar Throttle Control 4. Remove the right upper and lower switch housing screws. 5. Loosen the upper screw securing the handlebar clamp to the master cylinder housing. Remove the lower clamp screw and flat washer. NOTE If possible, leave the friction shoe in place. The friction shoe is a loose-fit and may fall out or become dislodged if the lower switch housing is turned upside down or shaken. 6. See Figure 3. Remove the brass ferrules from the notches on the inboard side of the throttle control grip. Remove the ferrules from the cable end fittings. 1 2 4 3 is 02072 1. Throttle cable 2. Idle cable 3. Brass ferrule 4. Notch Figure 3. Throttle/Idle Control Cables 7. Pull the crimped inserts at the end of the throttle and idle control cable housings from the lower switch housing. For best results, use a rocking motion while pulling. Remove cables with retaining rings from switch housing. Apply a drop of light oil on the retaining ring, if necessary, to help in removal. NOTE If installing different handlebars, measure the change in distance that will be required from the end of the cable housing to the throttle grip. Compare this additional required length to the cables provided in the kit. If the cables are more than 2.0 inches (51 mm) longer or more than 1.0 inch (25 mm) shorter than the above measured distance, see a Harley-Davidson dealer for the correct cable length. Install proper length throttle cables. Incorrect cable length can adversely affect motorcycle operation, which could cause loss of control resulting in death or serious injury. (00396b) 8. Follow instructions in the applicable service manual and remove air cleaner and backplate.

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HARLEY DAVIDSON MULTI-FIT BRAIDED THROTTLE/ IDLE CABLE KITS REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 01-02-2011

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REMOVAL To prevent accidental vehicle start-up, which could cause death or serious injury, disconnect negative (-) battery cable before proceeding. (00048a) 1. Disconnect battery cables, negative (-) cable first or remove the main fuse following the instructions in the service manual. NOTE When performing cable disassembly procedures, make careful notes as to the existing cable routing. Pay special attention to existing cable strap locations before removing so new straps can be placed into the same locations. Do not remove or install the master cylinder assembly without first positioning a 5/32-inch (4 mm) thick insert between the brake lever and lever bracket. Removing or installing the master cylinder assembly without the insert in place may result in damage to the rubber boot and plunger on the front stoplight switch. (00324a) 2. See Figure 1. Place the cardboard insert between the brake lever and lever bracket. 3. See Figure 2. Loosen cable adjuster jam nuts. Turn cable adjusters in until they are as short as possible. This will provide enough slack for easy removal. 4. Remove the right upper and lower switch housing screws INSTALLATION Throttle and Idle Cable Installation 1. See Figure 3. Apply graphite lightly to the throttle grip inside the switch housing and on the throttle end of the handlebar. NOTE The throttle control cable has a larger diameter retaining ring crimped to the cable end than does the idle control cable. For assembly, apply a drop of light oil on the retaining rings of the crimped inserts. 2. See Figure 7. Push the throttle cable housing and retaining ring into the larger hole of the switch housing, located in front of the tension adjuster screw. 3. Push the idle cable housing and retaining ring into the smaller hole of the switch housing, located behind the tension adjuster screw. 4. Push the throttle and idle control cable housings into the lower switch housing until each snaps into place. NOTE For models not equipped with factory-installed cruise control, if the friction shoe has fallen out or become dislodged, install the shoe with the concave side facing up and position it so the pin hole is over the point of the adjuster screw. 5. Push the throttle control grip over the end of the right handlebar until it bottoms against the closed end. Rotate the grip until the ferrule notches are at the top. To prevent binding, pull the grip back about 0.12 inch (3.2 mm). 6. See Figure 3. Position the lower switch housing beneath the throttle control grip. Install two brass ferrules (Item 3, Figure 11) from this kit onto cables, seating the ferrules in their respective notches on the throttle control grip. The cables must be captured in the grooves molded into the grip. 7. Position the upper switch housing over the handlebar and lower switch housing. Route the wire harness conduit through the depression at the bottom of the handlebar. 8. Tighten the upper and lower switch housing screws finger- tight. 9. Position the brake lever/master cylinder assembly inboard of the switch housing assembly, engaging the tab on the lower switch housing in the groove at the top of the brake lever bracket. 10. Align the holes in the handlebar clamp with those in the master cylinder housing and tighten the lower screw and flat washer finger-tight. Position for rider comfort. Beginning with the top screw, tighten the screws to 60-80 in-lbs (6.8-9.0 Nm)

HARLEY DAVIDSON DIAMONDBACK "LE" CHROME SERIES CLUTCH CABLE KITS INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 11-02-2011

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CLUTCH CABLE REMOVAL To prevent accidental vehicle start-up, which could cause death or serious injury, disconnect battery cables (negative (-) cable first) before proceeding. (00307a) Disconnect negative (-) battery cable first. If positive (+) cable should contact ground with negative (-) cable connected, the resulting sparks can cause a battery explosion, which could result in death or serious injury. (00049a) 1. Disconnect the battery or main fuse following the instructions in the appropriate Service manual. 2. When performing cable disassembly procedures, make careful notes as to the existing cable routing and existing cable strap locations. New straps can be installed in the same locations. 3. Remove the clutch cable following the instructions in the appropriate Service Manual. 4. If installing different handlebars, install them now (refer to the appropriate handlebar instruction sheet) and measure the change in distance that will be required from the end of the cable housing to the clutch lever. Install proper length clutch cables. Incorrect cable length can adversely affect motorcycle operation, which could cause loss of control resulting in death or serious injury. (00448b) 5. Compare the additional required length to the cable provided in your kit. If the cable is more than two inches (50.8 mm) longer or more than one inch (25.4 mm) shorter than the above measured distance, see a Harley-Davidson dealer for the correct cable length. CLUTCH CABLE INSTALLATION Sportster and Softail Models Do not over-tighten clutch cable threaded end fitting. Use recommended torque values. Damage to threaded fitting can lead to loss of transmission fluid, which could result in loss of control and death or serious injury. (00449c) -J04568
NOTE Damage to the clutch cable threaded end fitting due to improper handling/installation is not covered under the Harley-Davidson Motor Company Warranty. 1. See Figure 11. Apply a light coat of clean engine oil on the new O-ring (2) before installing the O-ring onto the threaded portion of the clutch cable end. 2. Install the clutch cable following the instructions in the appropriate Service Manual EXCEPT: Tighten clutch cable fitting to clutch release cover to 36-60 in-lbs (4-7 Nm) . Replace anchor pin with anchor pin supplied in this kit, see Figure 11, item (1 or 7). 3. After installation, follow the instructions in the “Final Assembly” and “Clutch Cable Adjustment” sections in this instruction sheet. FLTR Models with Fairing Lowers 1. See Figure 1. Carefully twist the clutch cable around the coiled opening in the clutch cable guide (2) with the eyelet toward the left handlebar. 2. Route the clutch cable assembly down from the clutch cable clamp while crossing to the right side of the vehicle. Run the cable between the inboard side of the right frame downtube and the outboard side of the voltage regulator. 3. The clutch cable clamp, mounted on the engine guard, has two fingers, an upper and a lower. Feed the cable assembly under one finger and over the other. 4. Finish the installation of the clutch cable following the instructions in the appropriate Service Manual EXCEPT: Tighten clutch cable fitting to clutch release cover to 36-60 in-lbs (4-7 Nm) . Replace anchor pin with anchor pin supplied in this kit, see Figure 11, item (1 or 7). NOTE See Figure 2. Adjust the clutch cable clamp to 2.25 ± 0.25 in. (57.15 ± 6.35 mm) as measured from the inside lower left fairing mount to the clutch cable clamp. 5. After installation, follow the instructions in the “Final Assembly” and “Clutch Cable Adjustment” sections in this instruction sheet.

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HARLEY DAVIDSON STAINLESS STEEL BRAIDED CLUTCH CABLE KIT REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 21-03-2011

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REMOVE CLUTCH CABLE 1. See Figure 1. Loosen clutch adjuster to obtain slack in the clutch cable (2) by performing the following: a. Locate cable adjuster (1) and slide off rubber boot (4). b. While holding cable adjuster with 1/2-inch wrench, loosen jam nut (3) using a 9/16-inch wrench. c. Turn cable adjuster until there is a large amount of free play at hand lever. 1 2 3 4 is 00889 1. Cable adjuster (1/2-inch) 2. Cable end 3. Jam nut (9/16-inch) 4. Rubber boot Figure 1. Clutch Cable Adjuster 2. See Figure 2. Remove the retaining ring (1), pivot pin (2) and clutch cable anchor pin (3) from the hand lever. 2 3 1 is 00891 1. Retaining ring 2. Pivot pin 3. Clutch cable anchor pin Figure 2. Clutch Cable Compoments 3. See Figure 3. Drain transmission lubricant and remove fill plug dipstick. Remove the six screws that hold the clutch release cover in place. Remove the clutch release cover, being careful not to damage the gasket. NOTE The clutch release cover gasket (P/N 36801-87B) will need to be replaced if torn or damaged to prevent transmission fluid from leaking from the release cover. 4 3 5 2 6 1 is 00894 Figure 3. Clutch Release Cover Screw Sequence 4. See Figure 4. Note position of retaining ring opening. Retaining ring opening must be positioned in approximately the same location during reassembly. Remove retaining ring (1). 5 4 1 3 2 is 00895 1. Retaining ring 2. Inner ramp 3. Cable fitting 4. Clutch cable 5. Ramp coupling Figure 4. Clutch Cable Connection 5. Pull inner ramp (2) and coupling (5) out of side cover. Hold inner and outer ramps together to keep balls from falling free. 6. Rotate the inner ramp to a position that will allow the coupling (5) to be disconnected from the inner ramp lever arm. Disconnect coupling from inner ramp. Disconnect cable end from coupling. 7. Back out threaded cable fitting from side cover. Ensure that o-ring is removed with cable. Discard o-ring. INSTALL CLUTCH CABLE 1. See Figure 4. Obtain braided stainless steel clutch cable from kit. Apply a light coat of oil on new o-ring and install o-ring (Part Number 11179) onto threaded portion of clutch cable (4). Insert clutch cable fitting (3) into clutch release cover. Do not tighten cable fitting at this time. 2. Connect cable end to coupling. Rotate ramps for best access and install coupling on inner ramp. Place ramp assembly in position in side cover. 3. Install retaining ring. Position retaining ring opening so it is located approximately over the outer ramp tang (the stop that prevents rotation). NOTE Replace clutch release cover gasket if torn or damaged. 4. See Figure 3. Place gasket, if removed, on side cover and install side cover. Tighten the six screws in the order shown to 84-108 in-lbs (10-12 Nm) . 5. Tighten the clutch cable fitting to 36-60 in-lbs (4-7 Nm) . 6. Place a few drops of oil inside cable housing. 7. Route clutch cable as follows: SOFTAIL MODELS FXSTD, FLSTS, FXSTS and FXST – Route clutch cable from the clutch release cover, across the frame, up along the front frame downtubes and across the front of the handlebars. Cable straps (item 1 in service parts illustration) to be used in same location as original equipment straps. FLSTF and FLSTC – Route clutch cable from the clutch release cover, across the frame and up along the front frame down- tubes, up to and behind the handlebars. Cable straps (item 1 in service parts illustration) to be used in same location as original equipment straps. DYNA MODELS FXDWG – Route clutch cable from the clutch release cover, under frame and across to the left side. See Figure 5. Insert cable (1) into clip (2) at the bottom left side of the frame

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Harley-Davidson S&S Super E and G Series Shorty Carburetors Installation and Jetting Instructions

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 24-10-2010

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throttle linkage with no cable modification. S&S Super E and G carb kits for 1936 to 1989 Big Twins contain a throttle cable guide (11-2339) designed for butterfly type throttle cables, and kits for 1990 and later Big Twins contain a taller throttle cable guide (11-2338) designed for CV type throttle cables. See Picture 2. The two throttle cable guides are interchangeable on the carburetor body, and can be changed very easily to update older carburetors or to accommodate custom throttle cables which are not stock for a particular year chassis. 1981 to Present Sportster Models Stock Sportster models from 1981 to 1987 have two cable throttle system designed for butterfly type carburetors. Sportsters from 1988 to present have a two cable throttle system designed for use with the stock constant velocity (CV) type carburetor. Since the taller #11-2338 cable guide bracket can not be used on a Sportster chassis due to insufficient frame clearance, throttle cables on Sportsters originally equipped with a CV type carburetor must be changed to butterfly style cables. S&S can supply the correct style throttle cables. See S&S Throttle Cable Application Chart. Picture 2 S&S THROTTLE CABLE APPLICATION CHART Length Total Housing Length Vinyl Housing Part Number Open Side Part Number Close Side Fitment 36″ 32″ #19-0430 #19-0431 For Buell with 7/8″ handlebars 36″ 32″ #19-0432 #19-0433 To ’95 ’81-’85 FX and FL; All ’81-’85 XL (Also pre-’81 w/2-cable throttle housing replaced.) For Buell with 1″ diameter handlebar 36″ 32″ #19-0436 #19-0437 ’96-Up 883-1200 XL 39″ 35″ #19-0434 #19-0435 To ’95 Softail (FXSTC, FXST, FLSTC, FLSTF) ’86-’94 FXR, ’93-’95 Dyna 39″ 35″ #19-0438 #19-0439 ’96-Up Softail (FXSTS, FXSTC, FLSTC, FLSTF) ’96-Up Dyna 42″ 38″ #19-0446 #19-0447 To ’95 custom application 42″ 38″ #19-0440 #19-0441 ’96-Up custom application 48″ 44″ #19-0462 #19-0463 To ’95 All FLT Models 48″ 44″ #19-0464 #19-0465 ’96-Up All FLT Models ” 1996 to Present Buells 1996 and 1997 Buells require special S&S butterfly style throttle cables for Buells, which are compatible with the stock 1996-1997 throttle assembly. 1998 and later carburated Buells require installation of stock 1996 – 97 throttle grip and the special S&S Buell style throttle cables when installing Super E or G carburetors. S&S Throttle Kits S&S throttle kits fit 1″ handlebars and can be used on most chassis. (An adapter sleeve is available for use with earlier, 7 ⁄ 8 ” OEM handlebars originally equipped with internal throttle cable.) Barrel fittings on S&S cables readily “plug in” to S&S Super E, G, and stock H-D 1981-’90 butterfly type carb throttle linkage. Kits include one opening and one closing side cable, left and right grips, and handlebar clamps. Kits with 36″, 39″, 42″, or 48″ length cables are available. Length specified refers to overall cable length. Vinyl covered outer housing is 4″ shorter than overall length

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CCS- 100 ELECTRONIC CRUISE CONTROL INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 10-11-2010

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UNDER HOOD INSTALLATION Connecting the Cruise Control Cable to the Throttle NOTE: Prior to attaching servo cable to throttle, locate an accessible area to mount the cruise control servo, but do not mount it. Leave the servo in this area (unmounted) and route cable to throttle attachment area. CAUTION: Attach the cruise control cable so that it parallels the existing throttle cable as nearly as possible. Choose a mounting method from the figures below: Attachment area for securing cable Bead Chain Coupling Sleeve (#23) Bead Chain Coupling (#24) 3 BEAD CONNECTOR FIG. 6 FIG. 7 FORD LINKAGE ADAPTOR Rubber Ring WIRE LOOP FOR PULLEY Carburetor Existing Snap-On Throttle Arm On Vehicle FIG. 2 SNAP-ON THROTTLE ARM MOUNT FIG. 3 CLAMP-ON THROTTLE ARM MOUNT Determine a suitable point on the throttle linkage to mount the cable connector. The mounting point chosen should have between 1-1/2″ to 2″ total linkage travel. It must operate smoothly by hand. There should be at least 5 beads between the throttle connector and servo cable end. The cable must pull in a straight line from throttle linkage. Some vehicles that do not have enough total linkage travel have to be connected at the accelerator pedal. The bead chain and servo cable end must be inserted into the bead chain connector. Then the bead chain coupling sleeve must slide over bead chain connector to insure that the end will not hang in the connector. FIG. 1 Cable Bead Chain Eyelet Connector (#25) Pull off Throttle Arm and Insert Bead Chain Connector between it and Carburetor Arm. Be sure additional thickness of adaptor does not bind linkage. 20° Bead Chain Eyelet Connector (#25) Cable Must Be within 20° of same angle as Throttle Rod Throttle Cable Throttle Wire Loop (#29) Barrel Wire Adaptor (#30) WIRE BARREL FOR PULLEY FIG. 5 FIG. 4

Ural carburetors Installation and idle adjustment

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Filed Under (Ural) by admin on 02-11-2010

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1. First you must adjust the idle. It is acceptable per the manual to adjust the idle by using the idle adjust screws (11). This usually involves screwing them then backing out 1 to 1.5 turns. Or you can adjust looking at the sliders 2. If installing the carburetors: a. Remove the cover (2) b. Reomve the slider (3) c. Place the throttle cable through the guide (18) with the spring (4) on the cable. d. Route the cable through the slide catch (6) e. Insert the slide assembly into the chamber and make sure it easily slides up and down. Direct the needle (8) into the opening of the diffuser (angled side visible). f. Screw assembly together and verify via throttle movement that slide moves freely. Attach fuel delivery lines to (12). 3. Using the idle set screw (11) raise the slider so the lower edge is 1-2 mm. 4. Assemble to engine using the proper gaskets (paper – felt – paper). 5. Using the locknut (26) adjust the free play of the throttle cable (2-3 mm) 6. Adjust the idle mixture screw – turn in completely then out 1 to 1.5 turns 1. Remove one of the spark plug caps, and with the cap shorted, adjust (11) to decrease RPM’s to a point of being minimally steady. 2. Adjust the mixture (15) out until RPM’s decrease. Turn in until RPM’s increase slightly. Then turn in screws ¼ to 1/3 revoultion. 3. Do the same for the second carburetor with the first spark plug cap shorted. 4. With both cylinders, adjust each idle (11) on each carburetor the same amount each until it’s at a steady, minimal RPM. Use small changes. (at this point you can use your airflow tool to check). 5. Sharply increase, then decrease throttle. Then engine must return to low RPMs smoothly. If the engine goes below limits, readjust (11) from step 4. Synchronization of the K68 Note: Rather than using the opposite cylinder shorted to test the pull of the live cylinder carburetor, you can use something like a Twinmax connected to the test ports (27 Fig 1). Or, if you have a model without these ports, use a Synchrometer (Appendix 2) held against the face of the carburetor. These tools merely show airflow passing through each carburetor (which is dependent on the position and wear on the slide). If using these tools, it’s not necessary to do the following steps. You wil want to use a throttle guide (Appendix 1), to show airflow at various throttle settings. Using the flow meter of your choice make sure each carburetor is the same at the various throttle settings. 1. Place the motorcycle on the center stand ensuring the rear wheel is suspended 2. Make sure you have large area to work with (safety issues here) 3. Shift into the highest gear with the engine running 4. Short one spark plug cap to the cylinder (using a nail or something in the fins) 5. Increase the speed to 40-50 km/hr 6. Fix the throttle using the throttle (maybe using a throttle stop screw under the throttle housing). 7. Reconnect other cylinder and using the opposite carburetor determine the speed which should be the same as the first. 8. Adjust the position of this slide to achieve the referenced speed using the locknut at the top of the carburetor.

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KAWASAKI Z1000 GTR Electronic Cruise Control Installation Manual

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 25-10-2010

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The actuator spool is installed in the CIU housing with the actuator cable. The actuator spool is rotated to fully extend the cable. 2nd step. The dual spool and carburettor cable are installed. The carburettor cable is attached to the lower groove in the dual spool. The other end of the carburettor cable is attached to the carburettors. Note the position of the roll pin. It is nearly contacting the end of the groove in the actuator spool. The free play in the carburettor cable must be adjusted so that the cable outer can be pulled out 2 ~ 3mm before the carburettors start to open. This ensures that the cruise control cannot prevent the carburettors returning to idle. If more free play is allowed the response of the cruise control is compromised. This adjustment of free play is usually performed after final assembly of the CIU is completed and the CIU is in its final location. This is because flexing the cable affects the free play. It is shown at this stage in these diagrams to improve clarity. After this adjustment is performed, the carburettor cable adjustment MUST NOT BE MOVED. All future adjustments of free play in the throttle must be performed on the throttle cable from the throttle grip. If incorrect free play in the carburettor cable is suspected due to inconsistent cruise operation or because of inconsistent idle speed, the adjusters on the throttle cable from the hand grip must be backed all the way off to give as much free play as possible. If this does not result in AT LEAST 5mm of free play in the throttle cable, the throttle cable must be removed from the hand grip or CIU before adjustment of the carburettor cable is attempted. This is crucial because the amount of free play in the throttle cable also affects the apparent free play in the carburettor cable

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BMW K1100 RS/ RT/ LT ABS 2 Electronic Cruise Control Installation Manual

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Filed Under (BMW) by admin on 26-10-2010

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The actuator spool is installed in the CIU housing with the actuator cable. The actuator spool is rotated to fully extend the cable. 2nd step. The carburettor cable and spool are installed and the other end of the carburettor cable is attached to the carburettors. Note the position of the roll pin. It is nearly contacting the end of the groove in the actuator spool. The free play in the carburettor cable must be adjusted so that the cable outer can be pulled out 2 ~ 3mm before the carburettors start to open. This ensures that the cruise control cannot prevent the carburettors returning to idle. If more free play is allowed the response of the cruise control is compromised. This adjustment of free play is usually performed after final assembly of the CIU is completed and the CIU is in its final location. This is because flexing the cable does effect the free play. It is shown at this stage in these diagrams to improve clarity. After this adjustment is performed, the carburettor cable adjustment MUST NOT BE MOVED. All future adjustments of free play in the throttle must be performed on the throttle cable from the throttle grip. If incorrect free play in this cable is suspected due to inconsistent cruise operation or because of inconsistent idle speed, the adjusters on the throttle cable from the hand grip must be backed all the way off to give as much free play as possible. If this does not result in AT LEAST 5mm of free play in the throttle cable, the throttle cable must be removed from the hand grip or CIU before adjustment of the carburettor cable is attempted. This is crucial because the amount of free play in the throttle cable also effects the apparent free play in the carburettor cable.

Adjusting the Pekar K68 for Dnepr or Ural

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 11-11-2010

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1. Make sure the ignition timing is correct 2. Adjust the valves as necessary to ensure proper operation 3. Run the engine to warm it up a bit 4. Adjust the float setting. To do this, remove the carburetors (leave the throttle cables attached), remove the bowl and turn the carburetor upside down (fuel will spill). The float should look like this: Adjust as necessary by bending the float support (#37 in Figure 1). Reinstall Installation and idle adjustment 1. First you must adjust the idle. It is acceptable per the manual to adjust the idle by using the idle adjust screws (11). This usually involves screwing them then backing out 1 to 1.5 turns. Or you can adjust looking at the sliders 2. If installing the carburetors: a. Remove the cover (2) b. Reomve the slider (3) c. Place the throttle cable through the guide (18) with the spring (4) on the cable. d. Route the cable through the slide catch (6) e. Insert the slide assembly into the chamber and make sure it easily slides up and down. Direct the needle (8) into the opening of the diffuser (angled side visible). f. Screw assembly together and verify via throttle movement that slide moves freely. Attach fuel delivery lines to (12). 3. Using the idle set screw (11) raise the slider so the lower edge is 1-2 mm. 4. Assemble to engine using the proper gaskets (paper – felt – paper). 5. Using the locknut (26) adjust the free play of the throttle cable (2-3 mm) 6. Adjust the idle mixture screw – turn in completely then out 1 to 1.5 turns. * Starting using the K68′s (cold weather) 1. Verify fuel flow. Apply choke (pull 52 in Fig1). 2. Using the ticklers (13) allow fuel to enter the bowl until fuel drains from (14) 3. With the ignition off, kick 1 or 2 times 4. Turn ignition on, and as soon as engine is warmed up (maybe sooner) push choke mechanisms to open choke Idle Adjustment (engine running and warm) 1. Remove one of the spark plug caps, and with the cap shorted, adjust (11) to decrease RPM’s to a point of being minimally steady. 2. Adjust the mixture (15) out until RPM’s decrease. Turn in until RPM’s increase slightly. Then turn in screws ¼ to 1/3 revoultion. 3. Do the same for the second carburetor with the first spark plug cap shorted. 4. With both cylinders, adjust each idle (11) on each carburetor the same amount each until it’s at a steady, minimal RPM. Use small changes. (at this point you can use your airflow tool to check). 5. Sharply increase, then decrease throttle. Then engine must return to low RPMs smoothly. If the engine goes below limits, readjust (11) from step 4. Synchronization of the K68 Note: Rather than using the opposite cylinder shorted to test the pull of the live cylinder carburetor, you can use something like a Twinmax connected to the test ports (27 Fig 1). Or, if you have a model without these ports, use a Synchrometer (Appendix 2) held against the face of the carburetor. These tools merely show airflow passing through each carburetor (which is dependent on the position and wear on the slide). If using these tools, it’s not necessary to do the following steps. You wil want to use a throttle guide (Appendix 1), to show airflow at various throttle settings. Using the flow meter of your choice make sure each carburetor is the same at the various throttle settings. 1. Place the motorcycle on the center stand ensuring the rear wheel is suspended 2. Make sure you have large area to work with (safety issues here) 3. Shift into the highest gear with the engine running 4. Short one spark plug cap to the cylinder (using a nail or something in the fins) 5. Increase the speed to 40-50 km/hr 6. Fix the throttle using the throttle (maybe using a throttle stop screw under the throttle housing). 7. Reconnect other cylinder and using the opposite carburetor determine the speed which should be the same as the first. 8. Adjust the position of this slide to achieve the referenced speed using the locknut at the top of the carburetor.

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