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Harley-Davidson CHROME HANDLEBAR SWITCH CAP KITS installation and REMOVAL manual

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 09-03-2012

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1. Open or remove seat according to the instructions in the Service Manual. To prevent accidental vehicle start-up, which could cause death or serious injury, disconnect battery cables (negative (-) cable first) before proceeding. (00307a) Disconnect negative (-) battery cable first. If positive (+) cable should contact ground with negative (-) cable connected, the resulting sparks can cause a battery explosion, which could result in death or serious injury. (00049a) 2. Disconnect battery cables, negative (-) cable first. 3. Remove left and right-hand switch housing assemblies. Refer to HANDLEBAR SWITCHES in Service Manual. NOTE It is not necessary to disconnect the switch wiring to replace the switch caps. 4. Remove individual switches from switch housing. Refer to SWITCH REPAIR/REPLACEMENT in Service Manual. INSTALLATION Upper Housing Switches 1. For HORN and START switch caps, release torsion spring leg from hole in switch cap tab. Take note of how the spring is installed. The other leg of the spring can remain in the switch bracket hole. 2. See Figure 1 and Figure 5. Carefully pry stock black switch cap up off the splined actuator shaft (2) on left side of switch. -J02633 1 of 5 5 2 1 1 3 4 is 01405 1. Switch cap installed correctly 2. Switch cap removal from splined shaft 3. Switch cap removal from pivot pin 4. Switch cap installation onto pivot pin 5. Switch cap installation onto spined shaft Figure 1. Switch Cap Removal and Replacement 3. Pry the switch cap up and away from pivot pin (3) on right side of switch, and remove cap. NOTE Use the clear protective cover film to protect the chrome surface of the switch caps during installation. Remove the film after the installation is complete. 4. See Figure 5. Select proper chrome replacement switch cap from kit. 5. See Figure 1. Place cap onto switch, angling the hole on right side over pivot pin (4) on switch. 6. Carefully press switch cap down onto splined actuator shaft (5), rocking and moving the cap until shaft snaps into place in splined hole. 7. For HORN and START switch caps, insert torsion spring leg into hole in switch cap tab. 8. Toggle switch back and forth, checking for proper opera- tion. Turn Signal Switches 1. See Figure 1 and Figure 5. Carefully pry stock black switch cap up off the splined actuator shaft (2) on switch. 2. Pry the switch cap up and away from pivot pin (3) on switch, and remove cap. 3. Select proper chrome replacement switch cap from kit. Peel a clear protective installation cover from the sheet and place it over the surface of the cap. 4. See Figure 1. Place cap onto switch, angling the hole on top over pivot pin (4) on switch. 5. Carefully press switch cap onto splined actuator shaft (5), rocking and moving the cap until shaft snaps into place in splined hole. 6. Toggle switch back and forth, checking for proper opera- tion.

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AJS DISMANTLING AND REBUILDING FULL-WIDTH FRONT WHEEL HUBS INSTALLATION

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Filed Under (AJS) by admin on 31-10-2010

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Removal of the Brake-side Bearing Cup The bearing cup (5) is located endwise by a circlip (1), and between the cup and circlip arc an oil-seal retaining washer (4), oil seal (3), and oil-seal cup washer (2) Before these parts can be removed from the hub the bearing cup must be moved inwards for a very short distance (3/16-inch) so that the circlip can be withdrawn. (n) Gently heat the hub shell. (i) Place a soft metal rod (e.g. brass) against the oil-seal cup washer (2) and apply pressure with a hand press or hammer blows. It is only necessary to move the bearing cup (5) inwards about 1/16-inch. (j) Extract the circlip by inserting a narrow pen-knife blade under one end of the circlip; lift it upwards and outwards and prise the clip out of its groove. (k) Remove the oil-seal cup washer (2), oil seal (3) and oil-seal retaining washer (4). They can be hooked out with the shank of a small and narrow screw­ driver, (l) The bearing cup can now be ejected by placing a suitable rod of soft metal (e.g. brass) in the hub tunnel from the right-hand side and pressing it — with a press or hammer blows — against the bearing cup until the cup is forced out of the bearing. This must be done with care so that the cup remains square with the housing. Reassembly To facilitate replacement of the bearing cups gently heat the hub shell. Just too hot to hold is about the right temperature. (a) Place the brake-side bearing cup squarely in the hub shell — the open end faces inwards — and press it into the hub tunnel A short length of brass rod, slightly less than the outside dia­ meter of the cup, should be interposed between the cup and ram of the press, or hammer head. Press the cup in until the outer face is approximately half-an-inch below the mouth of the hub tunnel. This will allow sufficient room to allow [he circlip to be inserted into its groove. (b) Refit in the following order: oil-seal retaining washer (4), oil seal (3), oil-seal cup washer (2). (c) The circlip can now be replaced. In the interest of reliability use a new circlip, for it is possible that the existing circlip was strained when it was re­ moved. (d) Insert into the hub tunnel from the right-hand side a brass rod of suitable length, and press the bearing cup firmly against the circlip. (e) Before inserting the spindle complete with the roller races, pack them with clean and fresh grease of a suitable grade (Mobilgrease No. 4. Castrolease heavy, Energrease C3, Esso Pressure Gun Grease. Shelf Retinax Grease CD or A). (0 Insert the spindle into the hub. (g) Place the right-hand side bearing cup in the hub tunnel; the open end faces inwards, It may be necessary to re-heat the hub to allow the cup to go into position without difficulty. (h) Press the cup into position, but do not force it fully home, leave some end play on the spindle. (i) Refit in the following order: oil-seal retaining washer (6), oil-seal (7) and oil-seal cup washer (8). (j) Screw into the hub the adjusting sleeve (9) until it comes into contact with the bearing cup (5)

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Honda 400EX Hub installation instructions

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 20-12-2011

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Remove all contents from its packaging and verify that all parts are present and free from damage. You should have the following items: (2) wheel hubs (2) smaller tapered bearings (2) large tapered bearings (2) wheel bearing nuts (2) dust caps (2) inner bearing seals (6) M3 x .5 screws (2) cotter pins (2) inner bearing spacers 2. Completely remove the old hubs from your quad and clean the spindle and the surrounding areas. It is very important to keep the new bearings and seals clean during installation for long life. Be sure to remove the factory inner bearing spacers from the spindle and discard. They will not be used in re-assembly. 3. Pack your new Timken tapered wheel bearings with a liberal amount of high quality wheel bearing grease. A wheel bearing packer works best, however you can accomplish the task by placing the grease in the palm of your hand and manually working it in between the bearing rollers. We also recommend that you pack the area between the bearing races in the hub with grease for additional lubrication and protection against moisture. 4. Place the large wheel bearing (inner) into the hub and install the inner seal. The seal should bottom out against the step in the bore and the face should be flush with the hub. 5. Remove the brake rotors from your old hubs. Re-install the rotors on your new hubs and be sure to use medium strength Loctite on the threads. 6. Apply a light film of grease or oil to the large diameter of the spindle stud. Install the new o-ringed bearing spacer onto the spindle. 7. Apply a thin film of grease to the seal surface on the bearing spacer and the inside diameter of the seal to prevent the seal from running dry. Install the hub onto the spindle and slide the outer bearing over the spindle and install the new bearing nut furnished with your hubs. Do not use the factory nut or washer. 8. SETTING THE BEARING PRELOAD: It is first necessary to seat the bearing before setting the preload. This aligns the rollers and prevents the bearings from loosening after a short period of use. To seat the bearing, tighten the spindle nut while you rotate the hub until the hub becomes difficult to spin. With the bearing now seated, you must set the bearing preload. Preload means placing a small amount of force against the bearings to remove any clearance between the bearing race and the rollers. This is done by backing the nut off completely and re-tightening it with your fingers. Do not rotate the hub while setting the preload . If a hole in the spindle is not accessible for installation of the cotter pin, adjust the nut tighter to bring a hole into alignment. Install the cotter pin and bend the pin around the outside of the nut. Do not attempt to bend the pin toward you (over the end of the spindle) or it may rub on the inside of the dust cap.

HARLEY DAVIDSON LOCKING FUEL FILLER CAP KIT REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 11-02-2011

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INSTALLATION 1. Prior to installing the gas cap on the vehicle, insert the key into the lock. Firmly grasp the chrome top of the fuel cap and turn the key until it stops. On right hand threaded fuel caps, turn the key counter-clockwise until it stops. On left hand threaded fuel caps, turn the key clockwise until it stops. This assures an unlocked position for the gas cap. Allow the key to return to the neutral position. 2. Remove the key and install the fuel cap on the vehicle. is00770 Figure 1. Right Hand Threaded Fuel Cap Installation NOTE When installing the fuel cap, rotate the cap one full turn past the audible click. This automatically positions gas cap to lock position. A properly locked/installed gas cap will rotate freely in both directions. Failure to do so will give an incorrect assumption that the fuel cap does not work properly. REMOVAL On right hand threaded fuel caps, insert key, and while holding the gas cap in place with hand, turn key counterclockwise until it stops, return key to original position. Gas cap must rotate 270 degrees counter-clockwise before mechanism engages to allow gas cap removal. Continue to rotate counterclockwise to fully remove gas cap. On left hand threaded fuel caps, insert key and while holding the gas cap in place with hand, turn key clockwise until it stops, return key to original position. Gas cap must rotate 270 degrees clockwise before mechanism engages to allow gas cap removal. Continue to rotate clockwise to fully remove gas cap. REPLACEMENT KEYS Record the 4 digit key number stamped on the back of the key opposite the Harley-Davidson logo, in the area provided below. If a replacement key is needed, see your Harley-Davidson Dealer with the 4 digit number to order a replacement

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HARLEY DAVIDSON WHEEL BEARING REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION TOOL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 19-02-2011

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BEARING REMOVAL 1. Place the wheel vertically in a vise and protect the rim from being marred. NOTE See Figure 1 for the tool lubrication locations before using. 2. Assemble the remover tool. a. Install wheel bearing puller (1), (2) or (16) depending on the bearing I.D. See the service parts table for the size reference. Install the wheel bearing puller into the bearing by hand or use a rubber mallet ( not a hard-faced hammer) to push through the bearing I.D. Stop pushing on the bearing puller as soon as it has cleared the inside of the bearing race. There will be a slight click. b. Place main body puller (3) over bearing puller with the fingers of main body puller facing the wheel. Lightly oil all threads. c. Place the large brass washer (10) and nut (13) onto the puller and hand-tighten the nut until it stops at the top face of the bridge. 3. Remove the front wheel bearings. a. Apply a small amount of oil to the taper at the hex end of the expander dowel. Insert the expander dowel (7) through the other side of wheel bearings, and through the bearing puller. b. Install the washer (15 and nut (14) to the expander dowel and torque to 100 in-lbs (11.3 Nm) with a 11/16 inch wrench or socket while holding the other side of the expander dowel by reaching the opposite side of the wheel with a 3/8 inch hex key. c. Align the main body puller support fingers centered over the bearing to be removed. If main body puller will be directly on a finished chrome surface, protect the surface area. d. If resistance is felt with a torque wrench set at 40 ft- lbs (54.2 Nm) of torque, you will need to apply heat to the hub area surrounding the bearing. Prior to applying heat, place 2 to 3 temperature stickers (P/N 94146-10) around the circumference of the hub. Apply indirect heat using a heat gun. Do not exceed 210°F. With a 1-1/8 inch socket and torque wrench, turn the nut (13) until the bearing is pulled free from the wheel hub. e. Using a 3/8 in. hex key on an extension and torque wrench set on the expander dowel (7) and a 1-1/8 inch wrench. Turn the nut (13) until the bearing is free of the wheel hub. 4. Remove the wheel bearing spacer from the I.D. of the wheel hub. 5. Repeat steps 1 through 4 for the opposite bearing. NOTE Remove rear wheel belt sprocket before removing the bearings. 6. Rear wheel bearing removal is the same as steps 1 through 4 by using the correct size wheel bearing puller

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KTM Front Wheel Bearing Installation Manuals

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Filed Under (KTM) by admin on 31-01-2012

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1 Place motorcycle on a stand so that the front wheel is off the ground. 2 Using a 27mm socket remove the front axle nut. Using a 10mm socket, loosen the four front axle pinch bolts. Slide front axle out of forks and remove front wheel. 3 Insert a long punch (with a good square edge) into the center of the aluminum wheel bearing spacers and push up against the inner edge of the spacer on the opposite side of the wheel (Fig. 1). Using a hammer, tap the punch around the entire circumference of the spacer until it completely slides out of the bearing (Fig. 2). Turn the wheel over and remove the other spacer in the same way. 4 Use a long screwdriver or narrow pry bar and pry the seals out of each side of the wheel (Fig. 3). 5 Using snap ring pliers, remove the bearing retaining snap ring from the brake rotor side of the wheel. (Fig. 4) NOTE: 2003 – CURRENT MODELS USING # 16-092 KIT DO NOT USE THIS SNAP RING. 6 Insert a long punch (with a good square edge) into the center of the wheel bearing, and push up against the inner edge of the bearing on the opposite side of the wheel. Using a hammer, tap the punch around the entire circumference of the bearing until it completely slides out of the hub. Turn the wheel over and remove the other bearing in the same way. NOTE: It may be necessary to tap on the punch sideways at first to knock the center aluminum sleeve off center so that you are able to get the punch on the edge of the bearing. 7 Clean areas where bearings will be inserted back into hub and apply a thin coat of grease around the machined hub surface. Tap the bearing on the snap ring (if used, either side if not) side of the hub into the machined hub surface, making sure to keep it square with the hub as it goes in and only tap on the outer race of the bearing. Once you get the bearing flush with the outer edge of the hub, use a socket or piece of pipe that is just smaller than the outside diameter of the bearing to finish tapping the bearing into the hub. (Fig. 5) 8 Install the bearing retainer snap ring (if used) into the groove machined in the hub, and then tap the seal in place over the snap ring with the spring on the seal in towards the center of the wheel. Tap in the aluminum spacer in the center of the seal.

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KTM Rear Wheel Bearing Installation and REMOVAL

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Filed Under (KTM) by admin on 23-01-2012

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1 Insert a long punch (with a good square edge) into the center of the aluminum wheel bearing spacers and push up against the inner edge of the spacer on the opposite side of the wheel (Fig. 1). 2 Using a hammer, tap the punch around the entire circumference of the spacer until it completely slides out of the bearing (Fig. 2). Turn the wheel over and remove the other spacer in the same way. 3 Use a long screwdriver or narrow pry bar and pry the seals out of each side of the wheel (Fig. 3). 4 Using snap ring pliers, remove the bearing retaining snap ring from either the disc or sprocket side of the wheel (Fig. 4). 5 Insert a long punch (with a good square edge) into the center of the wheel bearing, and push up against the inner edge of the bearing on the opposite side of the wheel. Using a hammer, tap the punch around the entire circumference of the bearing until it completely slides out of the hub. Turn the wheel over and remove the other bearing in the same way. NOTE: It may be necessary to tap on the punch sideways at first to knock the center aluminum sleeve off center so that you are able to get the punch on the edge of the bearing. 6 Clean areas where bearings will be inserted back into hub and apply a thin coat of grease around the machined hub surface. Tap the bearing on the snap ring side of the hub into the machined hub surface, making sure to keep it square with the hub as it goes in and only tap on the outer race of the bearing. Once you get the bearing flush with the outer edge of the hub, use a socket or piece of pipe that is just smaller than the outside diameter of the bearing to finish tapping the bearing into the hub. (Fig. 5)

AJS WHEEL BEARING ADJUSTMENT

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Filed Under (AJS) by admin on 31-10-2010

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Front Wheel (a) With the machine on the centre stand, disconnect the brake cable and remove the wheel. (b) Slacken the circular lock-nut (10). (c) Turn the adjusting sleeve (9) clockwise until all the slackness is just taken up. (d) Turn the adjusting sleeve (9) anticlockwise one-half a turn. It will now be necessary to drive the bearing back against the sleeve and this is done by:— (e) placing the wheel under a press and pressing the end of the spindle (on the brake-side) downwards. or: (f) jarring the end of the spindle on the brake-side with a weighty lead hammer. Whichever method is used the greatest of care must be exercised otherwise the bearing may be damaged, (g) Tighten the circular lock-nut (10). Hold the sleeve in position while this is being done otherwise the sleeve may move and the adjustment will be in- correct. (h) Refit the wheel and check for end-float. Front Wheel Bearing Assembly T www.ajs-matchles s.info ISSUED BY A·J·S MOTOR CYCLES, LONDON, S.E.18. Rear Wheel Bearing Assembly for Quickly Detachable Wheels Rear Wheel (a) Disconnect the speedometer driving cable. (b) Remove the lock-nut (16) which secures the speedometer-drive gear­ box in position. (c) Remove the wheel. (d) Grasp the speedometer-drive gearbox (15) with the fingers and firmly pull it away from the hub. (e) Proceed as described in the instructions for the front wheel (b) to (d). Note that in the illustrations for the rear wheel the circular lock-nut is (13) and the adjusting sleeve is (14), It will now be necessary to drive the bearing back against the sleeve and this is done in the following manner: Quickly Detachable Wheels (f) place the wheel under a press, brake- side uppermost, and apply pressure to the oil-seal distance piece (6), or; (g) jarr the end of the oil-seal distance piece (6) with a weighty lead hammer. Whichever method is used the greatest of care must be exercised otherwise the bearing may be damaged. Wheels for Rigid-Frame Models (h) Remove the brake-side spindle nut (19), washer (18), fork-end spacer (17), outer spacer (20), and the brake plate (21). (i) Place the wheel, brake-side uppermost. under a press and apply pressure to the oil-seal distance piece (6). or; (j) jarr the end of the oil-seal distance piece (6) with a weighty lead hammer. Whichever method is used the greatest of care must be exercised otherwise the bearing may be damaged. All Rear Wheels (k) Refit the speedometer-drive gearbox. It is pushed on. The two dogs must engage with the slots in the end-face of the adjusting sleeve. (l) Refit the lock nut (16). (m) Refit the wheel into the frame and check for end-float. (n) Tighten the lock-nut (16) and refit the speedometer driving cable

HARLEY DAVIDSON HEATED HAND GRIP KITS REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 08-02-2011

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REMOVAL Preparation To prevent accidental vehicle start-up, which could cause death or serious injury, remove main fuse before proceeding. (00251b) 1. Refer to the service manual and follow the instructions given to remove the main fuse. When servicing the fuel system, do not smoke or allow open flame or sparks in the vicinity. Gasoline is extremely flammable and highly explosive, which could result in death or serious injury. (00330a) 2. Remove the fuel tank according to the service manual instructions. -J04259 1 of 8 Left-Side Grip Removal 1. See Figure 1. Using a T-25 TORX drive head, remove the upper and lower switch housing screws (1). 2. Using a T-27 TORX drive head, loosen the upper screw securing the handlebar clamp (3) to the clutch lever bracket. Remove the lower clamp screw with flat washer. Loosen the clamp and position the clutch hand lever assembly away from the switch housing. Separate the upper and lower switch housings. 3. With “glueless” grip: Remove the grip from the handlebar. With glued grip: Remove the grip by carefully cutting it away from the handlebar using a sharp blade or knife. 2 2 1 5 4 3 1 is01283 1. Switch housing screws 2. Grooves 3. Handlebar clamp 4. Left handlebar grip 5. Larger diameter of flange Figure 1. Left Handlebar Switch Housing Right-Side Grip Removal Do not remove or install the master cylinder assembly without first positioning a 5/32-inch (4 mm) thick insert between the brake lever and lever bracket. Removing or installing the master cylinder assembly without the insert in place may result in damage to the rubber boot and plunger on the front stoplight switch. (00324a) NOTE A section of corrugated cardboard or the eyelet of an ordinary cable strap can be used for this purpose. See Figure 2. 1. Place a 5/32-inch (4 mm) thick insert between the brake lever and the lever bracket. 2. Using a T-25 TORX® drive head, remove the upper and lower switch housing screws. 3. Using a T-27 TORX drive head, loosen the upper screw securing the handlebar clamp to the brake master cylinder housing. Remove the lower clamp screw with flat washer. Loosen the clamp and position the master cylinder assembly away from the switch housing. Separate the upper and lower switch housings. 4. Remove the grip from the handlebar. NOTES The twist grip sensor in the right side of the handlebar has a seal cap that protects internal electrodes from dirt and moisture, and also serves as a retention device for the throttle grip. To remove the grip, a slight tug may be necessary to release the index pins in the grip from the receptacle in the seal cap. Upon removing the grip, check the location of the seal cap. If the seal cap is still fastened to the index pins inside the old throttle grip, it can be discarded along with the grip. If the seal cap is still fastened to the end of the twist grip sensor: •See Figure 3. Insert a small screwdriver or other flat-blade tool into the flat area on one side of the seal cap. •Press the leg on the underside of the cap to free it from the slot at the end of the twist grip sensor. Pry up one end of the cap. •Repeat on the other side of the cap. •Carefully remove the cap and discard it

RACE TECH SUSPENSION SERVICE TOOLS

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 01-12-2010

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SHOCK SEAL BULLET TOOL “Bullet Tools” make seal head installation onto shafts quick and easy. 35-8677 TSSB12512.5 x 10mm Shock Seal Bullet 35-8678 TSSB1414 x 12mm Shock Seal Bullet 35-8679 TSSB1616 x 12mm Shock Seal Bullet FORK CAP WRENCH 46/50MM Black Oxidized steel construction for superior strength. Multiple applications (46/50mm): Honda CR250 (97-00), Suzuki RM125/250 (96-00), and removes compression adjuster assembly on Suzuki RM125/250 (98-00). Sold each. 35-8670 TFCW4650 Fork Cap Wrench SHAFT HOLDING TOOL Holds fork damping rods, cartridges, shock shafts, etc. while servicing. (aluminum) 35-8672 TFSH10 Shaft Holding Tool 10, 12, 12.5, & 14mm (Dampning Rods) 35-8673 TFSH14 Shaft Holding Tool 14, 16, & 18mm (Shock Shafts) 35-8674 TFSH20 Shaft Holding Tool 20, 24, & 29mm (20 & 25mm Fork Cartridges) 35-8675 TFSH32 Shaft Holding Tool 32 & 35mm (28 & 32mm Fork Cartridges) ULTRA SLICK SEAL GREASE Race Tech Ultra-Slick Grease provides maximum lubrication and minimum friction for all seal and bushing needs. Available in 1 oz. container. 35-8682 Ultra Slick Seal Grease SHOCK SEAL HEAD SETTING TOOL Allows easy removal and installation of all 40 – 46mm integral shock seal head assemblies. 35-8676 TFSH32 Shock Seal Head Setting Tool SAG MASTER™ The Sag Master is a tool that makes measuring “Race Sag”a snap because you read it directly. No more subtracting! Also useful in determining proper spring rates and monitoring linkage and seal drag. Comes with complete instructions and, doubles as a tape measure. 35-8681 TSSM01 Sag Master Race Sag Setting Tool FORK SPRING COMPRESSOR TOOL This unique fork spring compressor is designed to work on most current sport bikes and road racers. It allows the spring to be compressed while the fork cap is removed from the rod. It can be used on or off the bike on most models. 35-8680 TFSC01 Fork Spring Compressor Tool

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