rear hub bearing of honda xrm 125

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Honda 400EX Hub installation instructions

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 20-12-2011

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Remove all contents from its packaging and verify that all parts are present and free from damage. You should have the following items: (2) wheel hubs (2) smaller tapered bearings (2) large tapered bearings (2) wheel bearing nuts (2) dust caps (2) inner bearing seals (6) M3 x .5 screws (2) cotter pins (2) inner bearing spacers 2. Completely remove the old hubs from your quad and clean the spindle and the surrounding areas. It is very important to keep the new bearings and seals clean during installation for long life. Be sure to remove the factory inner bearing spacers from the spindle and discard. They will not be used in re-assembly. 3. Pack your new Timken tapered wheel bearings with a liberal amount of high quality wheel bearing grease. A wheel bearing packer works best, however you can accomplish the task by placing the grease in the palm of your hand and manually working it in between the bearing rollers. We also recommend that you pack the area between the bearing races in the hub with grease for additional lubrication and protection against moisture. 4. Place the large wheel bearing (inner) into the hub and install the inner seal. The seal should bottom out against the step in the bore and the face should be flush with the hub. 5. Remove the brake rotors from your old hubs. Re-install the rotors on your new hubs and be sure to use medium strength Loctite on the threads. 6. Apply a light film of grease or oil to the large diameter of the spindle stud. Install the new o-ringed bearing spacer onto the spindle. 7. Apply a thin film of grease to the seal surface on the bearing spacer and the inside diameter of the seal to prevent the seal from running dry. Install the hub onto the spindle and slide the outer bearing over the spindle and install the new bearing nut furnished with your hubs. Do not use the factory nut or washer. 8. SETTING THE BEARING PRELOAD: It is first necessary to seat the bearing before setting the preload. This aligns the rollers and prevents the bearings from loosening after a short period of use. To seat the bearing, tighten the spindle nut while you rotate the hub until the hub becomes difficult to spin. With the bearing now seated, you must set the bearing preload. Preload means placing a small amount of force against the bearings to remove any clearance between the bearing race and the rollers. This is done by backing the nut off completely and re-tightening it with your fingers. Do not rotate the hub while setting the preload . If a hole in the spindle is not accessible for installation of the cotter pin, adjust the nut tighter to bring a hole into alignment. Install the cotter pin and bend the pin around the outside of the nut. Do not attempt to bend the pin toward you (over the end of the spindle) or it may rub on the inside of the dust cap.

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HARLEY DAVIDSON FRONT THUNDERSTAR WHEELS INSTALLATION

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 08-11-2010

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Remove existing front wheel assembly. Save axle, axle nut, brake disc, and wheel spacers for kit installation. Refer to FRONT WHEEL in service manual. For FLSTC and FLSTN Models: Discard moon-style hub cap. -J04065 1 of 8 For FXSTD Models: Discard the tapered r ight side wheel spacer. Do not re-use brake disc/rotor screws. Re-using these screws can result in torque loss and damage to brake components. (00319c) NOTE • For Kits 43573-08, 43575-08, 43703-08, 43978-07, 43771- 07, 43609-07, 44323-07, 44282-07, 44322-07, 43975-07, 43602-07 and 43773-07 install short valve stem (43157- 83A) included in the installation kit. • For Kits 40943-09, 40966-09 and 40996-09 install long valve stem (43206-01) included in the installation kit. 2. See Figure 2. Install valve stem assembly (L, M or N) on wheel. Refer to TIRES in service manual. 3. Assemble wheel installation kit components and brake disc(s) to wheel, using the appropriate service parts table. Refer to FRONT WHEEL in Service Manual. NOTES Install the primary bearing first using appropriate service manual and WHEEL BEARING REMOVER/INSTALLER. For Kits 43573-08, 43575-08, 43703-08, 43978-07, 43771-07, 43609-07, 40943-09, 40966-09 and 40996-09: • The left side of the wheel has a machined groove (item 5, Figure 2) in the hub face and/or DOT markings to identify it as the brake disc and primary bearing side. • Install the wheel so that the valve stem is on the right side of the motorcycle. For Kits 44323-07, 44322-07 and 44282-07: • Install the wheel so that the hub markings are on the left side of the motorcycle. The left side of the wheel has a machined groove (item 5, Figure 2) in the hub face and hub markings to identify it as the primary bearing side. • These kits include one or two hub plates (43985-00) to install between the brake disc and the wheel and a chrome hub cap (43986-00) to install on the wheel opposite the brake disc side. Hub covers must be installed to prevent water intrusion, which could cause an imbalance condition. Dual brake disc models: Install one stainless steel hub plate (3) between each brake disc and wheel hub. Discard chrome hub cap (2). Install brake discs according to service manual procedures. Single brake disc models: Install one stainless steel hub plate (3) between the brake disc and wheel hub. Install the brake disc according to service manual procedures. Install the chrome hub cap (2) on the side opposite the brake disc. Discard extra stainless steel hub plate (3). • The gross axle weight ratings is unaffected by the installation of this wheel on a vehicle equipped with a 21-inch wheel. For Kits 43975-07, 43773-07, and 43602-07: • The wheel has a machined groove (item 5, Figure 2) in the hub face to identify the right side. • For 2007 and later FX Softail Models and 2008 and later FXDWG: The left side of the wheel is the primary bearing side. For all other models the right side of the wheel is the primary bearing side. • For Kit 43602-07: An arrow is engraved into the right side hub to indicate the direction of rotation. • For Kits 43975-07 and 43773-07: An arrow is cast between the spokes on the right side to indicate the direction of rotation. • These kits include one or two hub plates (43985-00) to install between the brake disc and the wheel and a chrome hub cap (43986-00) to install on the wheel opposite the brake-disc side. Hub covers must be installed to prevent water intrusion, which could cause an imbalance condition. Dual brake disc models: Install one stainless steel hub plate (3) between each brake disc and wheel hub. Discard chrome hub cap (2). Install brake discs according to service manual procedures. Single brake disc models: Install one stainless steel hub plate (3) between the brake disc and wheel hub. Install the brake disc according to service manual procedures. Install the chrome hub cap (2) on the side opposite the brake disc. Discard extra stainless steel hub plate (3). 4. Install wheel assembly parts from the appropriate Service Parts table for this fitment and stock brake disc. Discard parts from the installation kit that are not required. Refer to FRONT WHEEL in Service Manual. 5. For FLSTC and FLSTN Models: Install wheel kit and right side wheel spacer provided in installation kit. For FXSTD Models: Install wheel kit, stock left wheel spacer and right side wheel spacer from installation kit in place of the tapered right side wheel spacer discarded in Step 1. Refer to FRONT WHEEL in service manual. For FXSTS Models: Install the left side wheel spacer provided in the kit between the stock left wheel spacer and the left fork. All other models: Install wheel spacers previously removed. 6. Install front wheel (1), stock axle and stock axle nut. Refer to FRONT WHEEL in service manual

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KTM Rear Wheel Bearing Installation and REMOVAL

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Filed Under (KTM) by admin on 23-01-2012

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1 Insert a long punch (with a good square edge) into the center of the aluminum wheel bearing spacers and push up against the inner edge of the spacer on the opposite side of the wheel (Fig. 1). 2 Using a hammer, tap the punch around the entire circumference of the spacer until it completely slides out of the bearing (Fig. 2). Turn the wheel over and remove the other spacer in the same way. 3 Use a long screwdriver or narrow pry bar and pry the seals out of each side of the wheel (Fig. 3). 4 Using snap ring pliers, remove the bearing retaining snap ring from either the disc or sprocket side of the wheel (Fig. 4). 5 Insert a long punch (with a good square edge) into the center of the wheel bearing, and push up against the inner edge of the bearing on the opposite side of the wheel. Using a hammer, tap the punch around the entire circumference of the bearing until it completely slides out of the hub. Turn the wheel over and remove the other bearing in the same way. NOTE: It may be necessary to tap on the punch sideways at first to knock the center aluminum sleeve off center so that you are able to get the punch on the edge of the bearing. 6 Clean areas where bearings will be inserted back into hub and apply a thin coat of grease around the machined hub surface. Tap the bearing on the snap ring side of the hub into the machined hub surface, making sure to keep it square with the hub as it goes in and only tap on the outer race of the bearing. Once you get the bearing flush with the outer edge of the hub, use a socket or piece of pipe that is just smaller than the outside diameter of the bearing to finish tapping the bearing into the hub. (Fig. 5)

KTM Front Wheel Bearing Installation Manuals

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Filed Under (KTM) by admin on 31-01-2012

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1 Place motorcycle on a stand so that the front wheel is off the ground. 2 Using a 27mm socket remove the front axle nut. Using a 10mm socket, loosen the four front axle pinch bolts. Slide front axle out of forks and remove front wheel. 3 Insert a long punch (with a good square edge) into the center of the aluminum wheel bearing spacers and push up against the inner edge of the spacer on the opposite side of the wheel (Fig. 1). Using a hammer, tap the punch around the entire circumference of the spacer until it completely slides out of the bearing (Fig. 2). Turn the wheel over and remove the other spacer in the same way. 4 Use a long screwdriver or narrow pry bar and pry the seals out of each side of the wheel (Fig. 3). 5 Using snap ring pliers, remove the bearing retaining snap ring from the brake rotor side of the wheel. (Fig. 4) NOTE: 2003 – CURRENT MODELS USING # 16-092 KIT DO NOT USE THIS SNAP RING. 6 Insert a long punch (with a good square edge) into the center of the wheel bearing, and push up against the inner edge of the bearing on the opposite side of the wheel. Using a hammer, tap the punch around the entire circumference of the bearing until it completely slides out of the hub. Turn the wheel over and remove the other bearing in the same way. NOTE: It may be necessary to tap on the punch sideways at first to knock the center aluminum sleeve off center so that you are able to get the punch on the edge of the bearing. 7 Clean areas where bearings will be inserted back into hub and apply a thin coat of grease around the machined hub surface. Tap the bearing on the snap ring (if used, either side if not) side of the hub into the machined hub surface, making sure to keep it square with the hub as it goes in and only tap on the outer race of the bearing. Once you get the bearing flush with the outer edge of the hub, use a socket or piece of pipe that is just smaller than the outside diameter of the bearing to finish tapping the bearing into the hub. (Fig. 5) 8 Install the bearing retainer snap ring (if used) into the groove machined in the hub, and then tap the seal in place over the snap ring with the spring on the seal in towards the center of the wheel. Tap in the aluminum spacer in the center of the seal.

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HARLEY DAVIDSON WHEEL BEARING REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION TOOL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 19-02-2011

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BEARING REMOVAL 1. Place the wheel vertically in a vise and protect the rim from being marred. NOTE See Figure 1 for the tool lubrication locations before using. 2. Assemble the remover tool. a. Install wheel bearing puller (1), (2) or (16) depending on the bearing I.D. See the service parts table for the size reference. Install the wheel bearing puller into the bearing by hand or use a rubber mallet ( not a hard-faced hammer) to push through the bearing I.D. Stop pushing on the bearing puller as soon as it has cleared the inside of the bearing race. There will be a slight click. b. Place main body puller (3) over bearing puller with the fingers of main body puller facing the wheel. Lightly oil all threads. c. Place the large brass washer (10) and nut (13) onto the puller and hand-tighten the nut until it stops at the top face of the bridge. 3. Remove the front wheel bearings. a. Apply a small amount of oil to the taper at the hex end of the expander dowel. Insert the expander dowel (7) through the other side of wheel bearings, and through the bearing puller. b. Install the washer (15 and nut (14) to the expander dowel and torque to 100 in-lbs (11.3 Nm) with a 11/16 inch wrench or socket while holding the other side of the expander dowel by reaching the opposite side of the wheel with a 3/8 inch hex key. c. Align the main body puller support fingers centered over the bearing to be removed. If main body puller will be directly on a finished chrome surface, protect the surface area. d. If resistance is felt with a torque wrench set at 40 ft- lbs (54.2 Nm) of torque, you will need to apply heat to the hub area surrounding the bearing. Prior to applying heat, place 2 to 3 temperature stickers (P/N 94146-10) around the circumference of the hub. Apply indirect heat using a heat gun. Do not exceed 210°F. With a 1-1/8 inch socket and torque wrench, turn the nut (13) until the bearing is pulled free from the wheel hub. e. Using a 3/8 in. hex key on an extension and torque wrench set on the expander dowel (7) and a 1-1/8 inch wrench. Turn the nut (13) until the bearing is free of the wheel hub. 4. Remove the wheel bearing spacer from the I.D. of the wheel hub. 5. Repeat steps 1 through 4 for the opposite bearing. NOTE Remove rear wheel belt sprocket before removing the bearings. 6. Rear wheel bearing removal is the same as steps 1 through 4 by using the correct size wheel bearing puller

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AJS DISMANTLING AND REBUILDING FULL-WIDTH FRONT WHEEL HUBS INSTALLATION

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Filed Under (AJS) by admin on 31-10-2010

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Removal of the Brake-side Bearing Cup The bearing cup (5) is located endwise by a circlip (1), and between the cup and circlip arc an oil-seal retaining washer (4), oil seal (3), and oil-seal cup washer (2) Before these parts can be removed from the hub the bearing cup must be moved inwards for a very short distance (3/16-inch) so that the circlip can be withdrawn. (n) Gently heat the hub shell. (i) Place a soft metal rod (e.g. brass) against the oil-seal cup washer (2) and apply pressure with a hand press or hammer blows. It is only necessary to move the bearing cup (5) inwards about 1/16-inch. (j) Extract the circlip by inserting a narrow pen-knife blade under one end of the circlip; lift it upwards and outwards and prise the clip out of its groove. (k) Remove the oil-seal cup washer (2), oil seal (3) and oil-seal retaining washer (4). They can be hooked out with the shank of a small and narrow screw­ driver, (l) The bearing cup can now be ejected by placing a suitable rod of soft metal (e.g. brass) in the hub tunnel from the right-hand side and pressing it — with a press or hammer blows — against the bearing cup until the cup is forced out of the bearing. This must be done with care so that the cup remains square with the housing. Reassembly To facilitate replacement of the bearing cups gently heat the hub shell. Just too hot to hold is about the right temperature. (a) Place the brake-side bearing cup squarely in the hub shell — the open end faces inwards — and press it into the hub tunnel A short length of brass rod, slightly less than the outside dia­ meter of the cup, should be interposed between the cup and ram of the press, or hammer head. Press the cup in until the outer face is approximately half-an-inch below the mouth of the hub tunnel. This will allow sufficient room to allow [he circlip to be inserted into its groove. (b) Refit in the following order: oil-seal retaining washer (4), oil seal (3), oil-seal cup washer (2). (c) The circlip can now be replaced. In the interest of reliability use a new circlip, for it is possible that the existing circlip was strained when it was re­ moved. (d) Insert into the hub tunnel from the right-hand side a brass rod of suitable length, and press the bearing cup firmly against the circlip. (e) Before inserting the spindle complete with the roller races, pack them with clean and fresh grease of a suitable grade (Mobilgrease No. 4. Castrolease heavy, Energrease C3, Esso Pressure Gun Grease. Shelf Retinax Grease CD or A). (0 Insert the spindle into the hub. (g) Place the right-hand side bearing cup in the hub tunnel; the open end faces inwards, It may be necessary to re-heat the hub to allow the cup to go into position without difficulty. (h) Press the cup into position, but do not force it fully home, leave some end play on the spindle. (i) Refit in the following order: oil-seal retaining washer (6), oil-seal (7) and oil-seal cup washer (8). (j) Screw into the hub the adjusting sleeve (9) until it comes into contact with the bearing cup (5)

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HARLEY DAVIDSON ENGINE/TRANSMISSION INTERFACE AND TOP COVER INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 19-04-2011

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INSTALLATION Perform this installation when the engine is cool. Working on or near the exhaust system when the engine is hot could result in severe burns. (00311a) 1. Refer to the Owner’s Manual and follow the instructions given to remove the maxi-fuse. 1 4 3 2 is03621 1. Transmission top cover screw (3) 2. Upper and lower rear bearing housing screw (2) 3. Upper front bearing housing screw 4. Lower front bearing housing screw Figure 1. Interface Cover Installation 2. See Figure 1. Remove the two rear bearing housing screws (2) from the side of the transmission case. 3. Remove the oil level dipstick from the oil spout on the side of the transmission housing, wipe off and set it aside for later installation. NOTE Insert a clean shop rag into the oil spout opening while the dipstick is not installed. With the dipstick removed, small parts or other foreign material could fall into the transmission, leading to equipment damage or malfunction. 4. See Figure 2. Obtain the rear interface mounting bracket (1) from the kit. 5. Apply a few drops of Loctite 243 (Blue) to the threads of the two bearing housing screws removed in Step 2. Install the rear interface mounting bracket to the bearing housing with the screws, and tighten to 13-18 ft-lbs (17.6-24.4 Nm) . 6. See Figure 1. Remove the upper front bearing housing screw (3) from the side of the transmission case. Loosen the lower front bearing housing screw (4). 7. See Figure 2. Obtain the front interface mounting bracket (2) from the kit. 8. Apply a few drops of Loctite 243 (Blue) to the threads of the upper front bearing housing screw removed in Step 6. Hook the slot in the front interface mounting bracket under the loosened lower screw head. Install the bracket to the bearing housing with the upper screw, and tighten both screws to 13-18 ft-lbs (17.6-24.4 Nm) . 9. See Figure 1. Remove and retain the three socket head cap screws (1) that fasten the right side and left front corner of the transmission cover. 10. Remove and retain the screw fastening the rear brake line P-clamp to the rear fork bracket. 11. See Figure 2. Obtain the right rear interface cover (3), two chrome 1/4-20 screws (6) and two flat washers (7) from the kit. 12. From the rear of the motorcycle, bring the right rear interface cover into position behind the rear exhaust pipe, over the bearing housing. The hole in the top surface of the cover should be positioned over the right rear transmission top cover hole. 13. Loosely fasten the interface cover to the rear interface mounting bracket with the two chrome screws and flat washers. 14. Obtain the chrome top interface cover (4) from the kit. 15. Position the top interface cover over the transmission top cover, overlapping the tab at the top front of the chrome right rear interface cover

Honda Goldwing GL1800 Solid Rear Axle Trike Conversion Installation Manual

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 16-02-2011

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Specifications Overall Width: 57.75″ Overall Length: 108″ Overall Length w/EZ-Steer 109.5 Wheel Base: 71″ Extended 4.5″ At Rear Axel Wheel Base w/EZ Steer 72.5″ Load Capacity: 500 Lb Tire Size: 205 / 70 / R15 Wheel Size (15″) Offset +35 mm 15x7JJ 4×4.5 Tire Pressure 20 PSI Suspension: “Zero-Flex” Internal Swing Arm utilizing 3 shocks, OEM shock absorber plus 2 coil over shock absorbers. Rear Differential: Champion Lightweight rear axle / differential assembly. Gear Ratio 2.93:1 gear ratio Brakes: Original front plus 2 high performance disc brakes at rear. Storage Capacity: 6.75 cubic feet. 3 full-face helmets and additional storage. Trike Conversion Installation Kit Honda Goldwing GL1800 Champion Trikes Page 7 of 28 Revision 10 4 Removal of Original Parts Most tasks necessary in this guide can be accomplished with the vehicle on its center stand. Secure the center stand to one of the forward crash bars with a ratchet strap to keep vehicle from rolling forward and off the center stand. Be sure that the vehicle is laterally stable as well. Remove the following from the vehicle. See OEM manual for detailed instructions. Items to be retained for return of deposit or re-installation after modification shall be duly noted. • Seat (to be re-installed without modification) • Left and right side covers (to be re-installed without modification) • Battery and battery box (to be re-installed without modification) • Left and right saddle bags • Remove taillight and locking assemblies from saddlebags (to be returned for refund of deposit) • Trunk (to be re-installed without modification) • Left and right passenger foot rests (to be re-installed without modification) • Left and right foot rest under covers (to be modified and re-installed) • Left and right rear crash bars • Saddle bag trunk stay (to be modified and re-installed) • Left and right mufflers (Mufflers only, do not remove decorative covers) • Rear wheel • Left and right pivot bolt covers (to be re-installed without modification) • Reverse resistor (to be relocated) • Swing Arm – Note : Carry out brake system modifications (Section 5) prior to removing Swing Arm. • Note : Upper bolt of mono shock can be removed without removing the fuel tank. • Note : Do not remove actuator hose from actuator pump or shock absorber. Dismounting shock actuator pump will allow more movement of shock absorber when removing swing arm.Trike Conversion Installation Kit Honda Goldwing GL1800 Champion Trikes Page 8 of 28 Revision 10 5 Brake System Modification Note : Modification to the vehicle brake system should be carried out prior to removal of the swing arm. From the manufacturer, your Honda Gold Wing brake system utilizes both front and rear brakes when the foot brake is applied. In order to insure safe operation of your Gold Wing when converted to a Champion Sidecars Trike, the brake system must be modified to isolate the front and rear brake systems from each other. Once modification is complete, four of the six pistons in the front calipers operate only when the hand brake lever is applied. The rear brakes operate only when the foot brake pedal is applied. The diagrams below outline the difference between the GL1800 OEM brake system and the system as modified by the Champion Sidecars Trike Conversion Kit.

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1999-2008 FLHT Series Harley- Davidson Trike Conversion Kit Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 04-12-2010

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1. Place the motorcycle on the lift. 2. Place a suitable Jack under the Frame of the Motorcycle and tie down securely. 3. Remove Drain Plug from Primary Cover Assembly and drain oil. 4. Slide Rubber Boot off of the Clutch Cable Adjuster. Loosen and back the Jam nut away from the Clutch Cable Adjuster. Move Clutch Cable Adjuster towards the Jam Nut to introduce free play in the Clutch Lever. 5. Remove the ¼ – 20 Phillips head screw and Seat. 6. Disconnect negative Battery Terminal. 7. Remove two ¼ – 20 flanged hex nuts from the Stud Plate. Save the Passenger Handrail and two nuts. 8. Remove the Saddle Bags. 9. Remove the Right and Left Side Covers. 10. Remove Inner Tour Pak Molded Liner. 11. Disconnect the Tour Pak wiring. 12. Remove five ¼ – 20 HHCS, ¼ – 20 nyloc nuts, and Aluminum Spacers. 13. Remove Tour Pak from Top Support Tube. 14. Loosen Muffler Clamp on both Mufflers and remove 2 5/16 – 18 HHCS per Muffler. Remove and discard both Mufflers. Save Muffler Clamps. 15. Remove and discard Muffler Support Plates. 16. Remove both ¼ – 20 HHCS and Front Saddle Bag Brackets. 17. Remove the twelve 5/16 – 18 Torx HCS six 5/16 – 18 nuts, and the Left and Right Saddle Bag Guards. 18. Remove the Air Line Junction from the Rear Fender. 19. Disconnect the Rear Lamp Wiring Harness and remove from T-stud Clip.
6 20. Remove two 5/16 – 18 Phillips head screws. Remove the Left and Right Frame Covers. 21. Remove two 5/16 – 18 Torx HCS. Remove and save the Top Tour Pak Support Tube Top. 22. Remove four 5/16 – 18 Torx HCS. Remove the Left and Right Rear Saddle Bag Guard Support Bracket. 23. Remove four 5/16 – 18 HHCS. Remove and save the Tour Pak Support Tube Bottom. 24. Remove and discard the Air Valve Assembly Bracket. 25. Remove four ½ – 13 HHCS and washers. Remove and discard both Rear Air Shock Absorbers. NOTE: if ABS equipped refer to separate instructions. NOTE: if ABS equipped refer to separate instructions. NOTE: if ABS equipped refer to separate instructions. NOTE: if ABS equipped refer to separate instructions. 26. Drain all Brake Fluid from the Rear Brake System. 27. Cut and remove Cable ties and un-clamp Wire Harness Loops from the Rear Brake Line along its length, including Clamps on Swing Arm. 28. Remove the 10 – 24 flanged HHCS and Rear Brake Hose Clamp from the Right Rear Fork Bracket. 29. Remove ¼ – 20 SHCS from Rear Stop Lamp Switch Bracket. 30. Remove and discard Banjo Bolt and Crush Washers on Rear Brake Caliper. 31. Remove the Spring Clip and nut from the Rear Axle. 32. Remove Rear Axle and Rear Wheel Spacers. 33. Push Rear Wheel Assembly forward and slip Rear Belt off of the Rear Sprocket. 34. Remove Rear Brake Caliper. 35. Slide Rear Wheel Assembly rearward. Remove one 5/16 – 18 Torx HCS from inside the Rear Fender well. 36. Slide Rear Wheel Assembly forward. Remove two 5/16 – 18 Torx HCS. Remove Rear Fender. 37. Remove and save the two Retaining Washers from the Stud Plate. Remove and save the Stud Plate

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HARLEY DAVIDSON REAR SLOTTED SIX-SPOKE WHEELS INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 15-03-2011

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INSTALLATION 1. Remove existing rear wheel assembly. Save axle, axle nut, brake disc, and wheel spacers for kit installation. Refer to REAR WHEEL in Service Manual. NOTES Prior to removing or installing the wheel, the rear brake caliper must be removed. The cotter pin or spring clip for the axle nut must be replaced. They are available for purchase from your dealer. See your dealer for the correct part number for your model motorcycle. NOTE Install long valve stem (43206-01) included in the installation kit. Discard all other valve stems. 2. See Figure 1. Install valve stem assembly (I) on wheel. Refer to TIRES in service manual. Do not re-use brake disc/rotor screws. Re-using these screws can result in torque loss and damage to brake components. (00319c) Do not re-use sprocket mounting screws. Re-using sprocket mounting screws can result in torque loss and damage to the sprocket and/or belt assembly. (00480b) NOTE For Kits 43928-08 and 43929-08: When installing wheel on 2008 and later XL models, install bearing shim from installation kit under the primary bearing. For Kits 43934-07, 43942-07 and 43972-07: When installing wheel on 2008 and later Dyna models, install bearing shim from installation kit under the primary bearing. 3. Assemble wheel installation kit components, stock brake disc, and sprocket to wheel using the appropriate service parts table. Refer to REAR WHEEL in Service Manual. NOTES The valve stem side of the wheel and machined grooves in the hub face indicate the primary bearing side. Install the primary bearing first using appropriate service manual and WHEEL BEARING REMOVER/INSTALLER. 4. Install rear wheel (1), stock axle, and stock spacers to motorcycle. Refer to REAR WHEEL in service manual. MAINTENANCE AND CLEANING Chrome parts must be maintained regularly to keep their original shine and luster. 1. Clean heavily-soiled wheel surfaces using Harley-Davidson Wheel and Tire Cleaner, applied with Harley Wheel and Spoke Brush. 2. Thoroughly clean chrome with a good quality chrome cleaner, such as Harley Bright Chrome Cleaner. 3. After cleaning and polishing, seal the finish with a good quality sealer, such as Harley Glaze Polish and Sealant

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