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1991 Bimota YB10 DYNOJET KIT INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Bimota) by admin on 01-11-2010

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1. Remove the vacuum slide from the carbs. Remove the stock needles & spacers, noting the order of assembly (Fig.A). 2. Install the Dynojet needles on groove #3 , using all stock spacers (Fig. A). Install the Dynojet washer above the E-clip. 3. Replace the stock slide springs with Dynojet slide springs provided. 4. Remove the stock main jets and replace with the Dynojet main jets provided. Use the DJ116 main jets with stock exhaust pipe, or use the DJ120 main jets with aftermarket header or slip-on with high flowing baffles. Use the DJ112 main jets at high altitude. Be sure that the jets you are changing are the main jets. 5. Locate the fuel mixture plug (Fig. B), if you see a screw head, proceed to adjusting procedure. With the plug drill (DD #5/32) provided, carefully drill thru the plug(s). The mixture screw is directly underneath this plug, be ready to pull back on the drill the instant you break thru. Use the screw provided to secure and remove the plug. Carefully turn mixture screw clockwise until seated, then back out 3 turns. 6. Locate the main air correctors (Fig.C). Using the plugs provided (DCO400), plug the main air passage. Place the plug in the carb flat end first.Tap in lightly. Using DT002. STAGE ONE INSTRUCTIONS Fig. B Place E-clip in groove #3 from the top Fig. A Notes: 1. Proper EXUP value adjustment is very important for good midrange performance. 2. If experiencing fueling problems below 4,000 rpm, under full throttle, that the needle can’t fix, try changing fuel level. If you feel it is too rich, lower the fuel level. If you feel it is too lean, raise the fuel leve

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1999-2003 Harley Davidson TC88 Micro Tach TM Tachometer Installation Manual

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 10-03-2012

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Installation of the Speedway Instruments microTach+TM tachometer requires some basic mechanical skills, including removing decorative covers, cutting protective tubing around wires, and using suitcase splice connectors to splice existing wiring harness. These actions may void your warranty, and if done incorrectly may cause damage to your motorcycle. Only you know your capabilities, if you do not feel capable of making modification please have a qualified motorcycle technician install it. Speedway Instruments, LLC is not responsible for damage to your motorcycle due to improper installation. The microTach+ TM tachometer designed for 1999-2003 TC88 Harley Davidson motorcycles is designed to operate when connected to a dedicated Tachometer signal from the Electronic Ignition Controller. It is not intended to run off signals going to the ignition coil unless utilizing a Speedway Instruments Tach Adapter. WARNING: Damage may occur to the microTach+ TM tachometer or your motorcycle if micro Tach+ TM tachometer is connected directly to coil signals, you must use a Speedway Instruments tach Adapter (sold seperately) ! ! 1. Turn ignition off and disconnect Battery. 2. Determine a mounting position. Each motorcycle is unique and the microTach+TM tachometer is small enough to be placed in many different locations to provide an attractive appearance and vital engine status. Possible locations are: a. Front Brake Reservoir

Yamaha V-Star 1100 Needle/ Jet Kit REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION MANUALS

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 27-12-2011

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To install this needle and jet kit: • Remove carburetors from the engine per Yamaha shop manual procedures. Note: Always perform internal carburetor work in a clean area. • Remove the vacuum slide from each carburetor. • Remove the OEM needle, spacer and washers, noting order of assembly. (Note; the washers are used as shims to raise the needle, each is equivalent to ½ clip position, use these to fine tune the needle) • Counting from the top to the bottom, install the new Baron needle clip on groove #4 of the replacement Baron adjustable needles. The top is the blunt end of the needle. • Reinstall the OEM spacer and washers as shown in the figure below. • Reinstall the vacuum slides along with the diaphragm spring and reattach the diaphragm covers Note: Verify that the slides maintain their full range of movement! • Drain the fuel from the float bowls and remove the bowl covers. • Remove the OEM main jets and replace them with Baron’s supplied Mikuni main jets. Install the “base setting” main jets as indicated above. NOTE: V-Star 1100 carburetion runs staggered jetting! Make sure the front cylinder’s carburetor gets the larger main jet (numerically), and the rear cylinder’s carburetor gets the smaller main jet . Important! Extra jets have been included in your kit. These will help you fine-tune the carburetors for changing conditions. These conditions include climate and weather patterns in your area as well as exhaust equipment on your motorcycle. Barons determines the jet and clip recommendations that best suit your average riding conditions based upon information supplied to us at the time of your order. Changes in weather, altitude or modifications to your exhaust system may require jets other than those supplied. • Thoroughly clean the inside of the float bowls prior to reinstalling them. 311 #1 Industrial Way – Fallbrook, CA 92028 – USA Phone: (760) 731-1200 Fax: (760) 731-1284 E-mail: tech@baronscustom.com Website: www.baronscustom.com Included in this kit: (4)Mikuni main jets #107.5, 110, 112.5, 115, (2) titanium needles, (2) clips, (8) cap-head allen screws Tools required: 3-4-5 mm allen wrenches, 10&12 mm sockets, 10mm end wrench, phillips & flat screwdrivers, pliers, drill. Revision 4.0 • Reassemble the carburetors by reversing the order of above steps. Use the new supplied cap head Allen screws in place of the OEM Phillips head screws for the float bowls. • Locate the fuel mixture screws – they will either be a screw head or a brass plug. If it is a screw head, skip to step c . If you see a brass plug with a small hole in the center, proceed as follows: a. With a 5/32″ drill bit, carefully and slowly drill through the fuel mixture plugs

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MOTORCYCLE SERVICE LIFT ADAPTER KIT FOR DYNA TC88 MODELS INSTALLATION

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 28-04-2011

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Installation A Service Manual for your motorcycle is available at your Harley-Davidson Dealer. 1. See Figure 1. Position the motorcycle on a straight and level surface. While the bike rests on the Jiffy Stand, straighten the front wheel and place the frame leveling extrusion under the front tire to keep the tire straight. 2. Slide the motorcycle lift (fully lowered) under the bike from the right side (opposite jiffy stand side) lining up the frame rails with each of the perpendicular jacking rails on the lift. When properly aligned, the left frame rail will be approximately 1″ from the lift end section (Figure 2) and lift base will be adjacent to the Jiffy Stand (Figure 3). This will allow bike to be centered when moved to an upright position

Hot-Start Kit For Yamaha YZ/ WR 400F

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 16-12-2010

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Blaster Rear Brake Kits 121-01298 • YFS200 Blaster ’88-’98 • This cable will eliminate the stock cable from the handlebar. Cable will go from the rear brake pedal to the caliper. 121-01299 • Same as 121-01298 +4″ • Cable is 4″ longer for extended swingarms. 121-01027 Replacement Ratchet Spark Plug Wrench 121-08147 • Designed specifically to fit where there is limited space • Ratchet mechanism works one way • Fits standard 13/16″ plugs
INDEX PAINT HANDLEBARS STREET LEVERS FORK SEALS CABLES SUSPENSION ELECTRICAL FILTERS BRAKE LINES BRAKES CABLE MAKING SUPPLIES CONTROLS DUAL SPORT MANUALS FSO PRODUCTS EMGO DRIVE DISPLAY JETS BEARINGS EYEWEAR VINTAGE MIRRORS EUROPEAN KICKERS SHIFTERS MISC HARD PARTS SHOP TOOLS CHEMICALS TOOLS R . 03-15-06 21 (626) 792-7384 www.FlandersCompany.com Fax: (626) 792-5341 www.FlandersCo.com Specialty Tools Swingarm Bearing Tool 121-080213 • Designed for installation of the swing arm bearings on late model Japanese motorcycles • Using the correct size insert (various sizes included in kit) and the puller, the mechanic can draw the bearing into the swingarm without beating on it with a hammer Main Jet Wrenches • High-quality die cast construction • 6mm round and hex jets and 8mm round • Cap holds a few spare main jets • Sold each 121-08023 6mm Hex (Fits 6mm hex main jets) 121-08024 8mm Round (Fits 8mm round main jets) 121-08025 6mm Round (Fits 6mm round main and pilot) Allen Extension 121-080184 • 5mm allen on a 6.25″ long, 3⁄8-drive extension for hard-to-reach case bolts • Designed for use with air tools • Great for splitting engine cases

Kawasaki KZ750 Twin Carburetor Installation Manual

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 25-10-2010

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The first Kawasaki KZ750 twin was built in 1975 and sold as a 1976 model as a KZ750B1. For the first four years of production (1976-79), the KZ750B1 through B4 shared identical Mikuni BS38 carburetor assemblies. These assemblies are probably the heaviest twin-carb assemblies ever built and have a couple unique features. The biggest oddity is that the Kawasaki version of the BS38 uses a system where both the pilot jet and main jet are screwed into the float bowl. A good bowl gasket is critical because gas is drawn from the jets into the internal passages that lead to the venturi via channels beneath the gasket inside the float chamber. The pilot jets used are standard BS series fare in that they are Mikuni BS30/96 type but the main jets are unique to Kawasaki BS38 carburetor assemblies. They look like very small air jets and are frequently stripped as they require the correct sized small screwdriver to remove

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Triumph SU CARBURETORS SERVICING AND TUNING

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Filed Under (Triumph) by admin on 29-10-2010

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Jets: These are made in various sizes ranging from.099 inches to.1875 inches, the larger sizes being used only for racing or very high performance engines. The two sizes most commonly found on production cars are the.090 inch and the.100 inch. The size of the jet will be found stamped on the jet head. The figure “nine”wilt indicate that it is the.090 inch and the figure “one”will indicate the.100 inch jet. When tuninga production car the jets size should be checked to make sure that it is of the size recommended by the manufacturers. Centering of Jet: If for any reason, the jet assembly has been removed, it will be ne cessary to recenter the jet. First, remove the clevis pin at the base of the jet which attaches the jet head to the jet operating lever. Withdraw the jet completely and remove the adjusting nut and spring, then replace the adjusting nut, without its spring, and screw it up toits highest position. Slide the Set into position until the jet head is against the base of the adjusting nut. When this has been done, find out if the piston is perfectly free by lifting it up with the finger and allowing it to drop. If the piston is not entirely free, slacken the jet screw and manipulate the lower part of the assembly, including the projecting part of the bottom half of the jet bearing, adjusting nut, and jet head. Make sure that this assembly is now slightly loose. The piston should then rise and fall quite freely as the needle is now able to move the jet into the required central position. The jet screw should now be tightened and a further check made to determine that the piston is still quite free. When complete freedom of the piston is achieved the jet adjusting nut should be removed, together with the jet, and the spring replaced. Experience has shown that a large percentage of carburetors, which have given trouble has been due to the incorrect centering of jets. Jet Needles— These are made in a great variety of sizes, probably now well over two hundred and fifty, and each type of engine hasaneedlethat has been selected, after very careful tests have been carried out, to give the best all-round performance. Most manufacturers actually give three alternative needles for each type and size of engine, these needles clearly being listed by the manufacturer “Standard”, “Rich”or”Weak”and before tuning is started the needle, which is marked on the shank should be checked against the manufacturer’srecommendation to make quite sure that the right needle is fitted; this is most important.

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S&S Connecting Rods Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (S&S) by admin on 29-10-2010

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1. Female rod crankpin end to mainshaft nuts – .030″ minimum clearance recommended. A. Install sprocket shaft and crankpin in driveside flywheel. Snug nuts only. Do not torque to final specs. B. Slide connecting rods and bearings over crankpin. C. Rotate rods on crankpin, and observe clearance between rod and sprocket shaft nut. D. If additional clearance is needed, remove material from sprocket shaft nut. Do not remove material from connecting rod. E. Repeat procedure for camside flywheel and pinion shaft. 2. Female rod crankpin end to inner flywheel rim – .060″ clearance recommended. A. While checking female rod to mainshaft clearance, observe clearance between crankpin end of female rod and rim of both flywheels. B. If additional clearance is required, remove material from flywheel at point of contact. Do not remove material from connecting rod. 3. Wristpin end of both female and male rods to flywheel edge -.060″ minimum clearance recommended. A. While checking female rod to mainshaft clearance, observe clearance between wristpin end of both rods and rim of both flywheels. B. If additional clearance is required, remove material from flywheel at point of contact. Do not remove material from connecting rod. 4. Wristpin end to crankcase and cylinder – .060″ is recommended in these areas. A. With the camside flywheel and rods mocked up, install the assembly in the right crankcase half with pistons (less rings) and cylinders in place. B. Rotate flywheel through one full revolution and check for rod to crankcase and cylinder spigot contact on both the front and rear of each cylinder. C. File or grind crankcase or cylinder spigot as needed to achieve .060″ clearance. Do not remove morematerial than needed. D. Repeat for left crankcase half. NOTE: Whenever clearancing is performed in any of these areas, do not remove any material from the connecting rods as clearancing on the rods may unnecessarily weaken them. Make adjustments to the point of contact on the mainshaft nut, flywheel rim, crankcase, cylinder spigot, etc. Connecting rods weakened by clearancing may fail causing serious engine damage.

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Yamaha V-Star 650 Jet Kit REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 16-01-2012

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Remove the vacuum slide from the carburetor. • Remove the OEM needle and spacer, noting the order of assembly. • Counting from the top to the bottom, install the new Baron needle clip on groove #4 of the replacement Baron adjustable needle. • Reinstall the OEM spacer and washer. • Reinstall the vacuum slide along with the diaphragm spring. • Reattach the diaphragm cover and tighten its screws. Note: Verify that the slide maintains a full range of movement! • Drain the fuel from float bowl and remove the bowl cover. • Remove the new cap head Allen screws in place of the OEM Phillips head screws. • Repeat above steps for other OEM main jet and pilot jet, and replace them with Baron’s main and pilot jets. • Thoroughly clean the inside of the float bowl prior to reinstalling it. • Reassemble the carburetor by reversing the order of previous steps. Use thecarburetor. • Locate the fuel mixture plug on each carburetor; it will either be a screw head or a brass plug. If it is a screw head, skip to step c . If you see a brass plug with a small hole in the center, proceed as follows: a. With a 5/32″ drill bit, carefully and slowly drill through the fuel mixture plug for each carburetor. CAUTION: The fuel mixture screw is located directly beneath this plug. Be prepared to stop the drill and remove the bit the instant you break through the plug. b. Insert a self-tapping sheet metal screw into the drilled hole and remove the plug. 311 #1 Industrial Way – Fallbrook, CA 92028 – USA Phone: (760) 731-1200 Fax: (760) 731-1284 E-mail: tech@baronscustom.com Website: www.baronscustom.com Included in this kit: (2) Mikuni main jets, (2) pilot jets, (2) titanium needles, (2) clips, (8) cap head Allen screws Revision 2.0 c. With air/fuel screw now accessible, use a flat blade screwdriver to turn the screw clockwise until it seats, then carefully turn it counter-clockwise 3 turns. Refer to final step for assistance in fine-tuning the setting of the air/fuel adjustment screw. • Reinstall the OEM air filter assembly. • Check all vent lines, fuel lines, and linkage for any obstructions or blockage

Honda CARBURETOR ADJUSTMENT TOOLS

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 17-12-2011

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K&L CARBURETOR ADJUSTMENT WRENCHES These tools use tough and accurate bevel gear actuation instead of cable for professional use. The aluminum handle includes index marks for accurate tuning. Sold each. Three types available: 35-9653 Slot-type Pilot Screw Adjustment Wrench for Kawasaki/Suzuki/Yamaha 35-9658 Slot-type Pilot Screw Adjustment Wrench with longer tip for Kawasaki/Suzuki/Yamaha 35-9650 D-type Keihin Pilot Screw Adjustment Wrench for Honda 90-DEGREE 1/4″ HEX DRIVER This gear driven, 1/4″ hex driver set is made of high-grade aluminum and stainless steel. Strongest tool of it’s type on the market. Designed for use on hard-to-reach pilot air screws on inline fours. Can be used with any 1/4″ or 6mm hex bits. 35-7820 90-Degree 1/4″ Hex Driver Set: Includes straight slot, phillips, d-shape pilot screw bit, 6mm hex jet bit & 1/4″ – hex – 1/4″ drive bit. FCR CARB TOOL Set includes three bits – 6mm hex for main jets, long reach straight slot for pilot jets and 3mm allen for float bowl removal. Longer bits make this set ideal for reaching into recessed cavities when adjusting Keihin FCR carburetors. Sold as a set. 35-7978 FCR Carb Tool 12″ DRILL BIT For removal of carburetor plug. (mixture screw plug) 1/8″ bit x 12 inch length. 35-1186 YM-33217-16 JET DRIVER 35-2270 Perfect for removal of jets from small recessed passages

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