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HARLEY DAVIDSON CHROME BELT SPROCKET COVER KIT INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 11-02-2011

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Installation 1. Remove rear wheel. Refer to the applicable Service Manual for the proper removal procedure. 2. Remove bolts and washers from sprocket. •If you intend to install Acorn Nut and Stud Kit (Part No. 91734-85), refer to that Instruction Sheet at this time (please note that this Acorn Nut and Stud Kit does not fit Sportster (XL) models). •If you do not intend to install Acorn Nut and Stud Kit (Part No. 91734-85), retain bolts and washers for reassembly. Proceed to Step 3. 3. Position sprocket cover so that its mounting holes align with the holes in the sprocket. NOTE There is only one position which allows each hole in the cover to align with a hole in the sprocket. If replacement bolts, washers, or nuts are required, use only genuine Harley-Davidson parts specified for your particular model. Aftermarket fasteners can adversely affect performance, which could result in death or serious injury. NOTE • See Harley-Davidson service manual for proper torque val- ues; •Aftermarket fasteners may not have the specific property requirements to perform properly. 4. Install bolts with washers through holes in sprocket cover and sprocket, and into threaded holes in wheel hub. Depending on the tensile strength grade of the bolts in your particular application, tighten bolts in a crosswise pattern to one of the torque values listed in the following table: 5. Refer to the applicable Service Manual for the proper procedure and perform the following: •Install axle. •Align belt. •Adjust belt tension. •Tighten rear axle nut to 60 – 65 ft-lbs torque. 6. Check sprocket for radial runout (eccentricity). If runout is visible, mark outer edge of sprocket at the location of runout. Loosen sprocket bolts and tap the marked location with a rubber mallet. Tighten sprocket bolts in a crosswise pattern to the applicable torque specified in Step 4.

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HARLEY DAVIDSON CHROME SPROCKET HARDWARE KIT INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 14-02-2011

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INSTALLATION For 1991 through 1996 XL with Laced Wheels For 1993 through 1996 Softail with Laced Wheels For 1993 through 1997 Dyna with Laced Wheels 1. Remove the rear wheel. Refer to REAR WHEEL REMOVAL in the Service Manual. 2. Remove all stock sprocket mounting screws, washers and locknuts. 3. Place a new chrome washer onto the threads of each new chrome screw from the kit. Install the sprocket onto the wheel. 4. See Figure 1. Obtain new original equipment locknuts and install on the screws. See Figure 2. Tighten all screws in the sequence shown to 45-55 ft-lbs (61-75 Nm). 5. Install the rear wheel. See REAR WHEEL INSTALLATION in the service manual. Verify the correct axle alignment and check belt deflection per service manual instructions INSTALLATION For 1997 and Later XL with Laced Wheels For 1997 through 1999 Softail with Laced Wheels For 1998 through 1999 Dyna with Laced Wheels For ALL Models with Cast Wheels 1. Remove the rear wheel. Refer to REAR WHEEL REMOVAL in the Service Manual. 2. Remove all stock sprocket mounting screws and washers. 3. Place a new chrome washer onto the threads of each new chrome screw from the kit. Apply 2-3 drops of Loctite 262 (red) to the screw threads, and install the sprocket onto the wheel. Tighten all sprocket screws finger-tight. 4. See Figure 3. Tighten the bolts in the sequence shown to 23 ft-lbs (31.2 Nm). NOTE If 23 ft-lbs (31.2 Nm) is reached before screw is fully seated, remove screw and examine screw and wheel for thread damage. Replace screw or wheel if threads are damaged. 5. After all screws have been tightened to 23 ft-lbs (31.2 Nm), mark a straight line, with a grease pencil, on all sprocket screw heads continuing the line over onto the sprocket. 1 4 2 5 3 30 is04009 Figure 3. Tightening Sequence (Later Laced Wheels and All Cast Wheels) 6. Mark a second line at 30° clockwise from the lines on the sprocket at each screw. NOTE For best results, use Snap-on Torque Angle Gauge TA360 or equivalent. 7. Using the marks as a guide, and using the tightening sequence shown in Figure 3+, turn each screw an additional 1/12 turn or 30° clockwise. 8. Install the rear wheel. See REAR WHEEL INSTALLATION in the service manual. Verify the correct axle alignment and check belt deflection per service manual instructions

1981-1983 Yamaha Virago 750 & 920 Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 11-02-2012

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Start by loosening the rear cylinder down tube bolt located on the top of the old mufflers center collector in front of the rear tire. 2. Remove both of the front cylinder exhaust pipe head nuts and set them to the side for reuse with the MAC exhaust system. 3. Remove the right side passenger’s foot peg. Set the foot peg aside as you will need to reinstall it. 4. Remove the left side passenger’s foot peg. Set this foot peg aside as it will also need to be reinstalled. Note: When you remove this bolt the entire exhaust system will be loose and may fall. You will need to support the old exhaust at this point to keep from injuring yourself. Gently move the old exhaust system side to side to remove it from the rear cylinder down tube. Once the exhaust system is loose from the down tube remove the system from under the Virago. 5. Remove the bolt holding the rear brake pedal in place and remove the brake pedal from the motorcycle. Note: Set both the bolt and the pedal aside for reinstallation. 6. Next loosen the nut on the drivers right foot peg, 1 full turn to start with. Then remove the rear nut on the same foot peg. (Note: The bolt that this nut is on goes completely through the motorcycle. This is the center stand mounting bolt.) Now remove the front nut and set both aside for reuse with the MAC system. 7. Install the center stand stop bracket under the left passenger foot peg. Install this bracket with the 90° bend facing down and towards the rear tire. (Note: Center stand sop bracket in provided in the hardware kit and is approx. 5″ long with a 90° bend in it.) Adjust the bracket by one of the large bolts through the foot peg then through the bracket and then install it into the stock location. Put on one of the washers and a nut and snug up the nut. Lower the center stand until the center stand come in to contact with the bottom of the bracket. Tighten the nut until it will hold the bracket securely. 8. Install the rear down tube clamp onto the rear muffler and install the medium sized nut/bolt/washer onto the clamp just finger tight. 9. Install the (2) small bolts into the channel bracket on the rear muffler. Install the rear mounting bracket onto the two bolts and then install the washers and nuts onto each. Tighten the (2) nuts only slight amount so that you can slide the bracket front to rear to insure that when you install the bracket you position it properly. 10. Slide the rear pipe onto the rear down tube about ¼”to ¾” past the pre-cut slots on the rear muffler pipe. Slightly snug the clamp making sure that the position of the bolt and nut will not interfere with any moving parts. The final position of this bolt can hit the tire if it is not positioned properly. 11. Install the other large bolt into the right passenger and then through the top hole in the rear muffler mounting bracket. Insert the bolt into the stock location and install the washer and the nut. 12. Align the rear muffler and you can then tighten the nuts on the rear muffler mounting bracket, the cylinder down tube and the right side passenger foot peg.
13. Install the front muffler on the rear most mounting bolt of the drivers foot peg and put the stock nut back onto the bolt. Hand tighten the bolt only at this time. Note: Install the nut at this time is only to support the muffler and to insure that the pipe does not fall on the ground while you complete the next step. 14. Lift the front head pipe into position and start the stock nuts onto the studs. It is strongly recommended that you install new exhaust gasket at this time. Note: The new exhaust gaskets are not included in the kit but are available at your local Yamaha Dealer. After gaskets are installed hand tighten the front head pipe. 15. Remove the nut from the drivers foot peg bolt and reinstall the drivers foot peg. Note: Hand tighten only at this time. 16. Finish tightening the nuts on the front head pipes. (Install these nuts according to Yamaha’s Factory specifications.) Once the nuts are tightened on the head pipe you can then tighten the drivers foot peg nuts. 17. Reinstall the rear brake pedal and tighten the bolt that holds it on to factory specifications. 18. Check all of the bolts that you have installed of removed to insure that they are tight. 19. Start the motorcycle and check for any leaks. 20. You are finished with your new MAC Exhaust System.

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1999-2008 FLHT Series Harley- Davidson Trike Conversion Kit Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 04-12-2010

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1. Place the motorcycle on the lift. 2. Place a suitable Jack under the Frame of the Motorcycle and tie down securely. 3. Remove Drain Plug from Primary Cover Assembly and drain oil. 4. Slide Rubber Boot off of the Clutch Cable Adjuster. Loosen and back the Jam nut away from the Clutch Cable Adjuster. Move Clutch Cable Adjuster towards the Jam Nut to introduce free play in the Clutch Lever. 5. Remove the ¼ – 20 Phillips head screw and Seat. 6. Disconnect negative Battery Terminal. 7. Remove two ¼ – 20 flanged hex nuts from the Stud Plate. Save the Passenger Handrail and two nuts. 8. Remove the Saddle Bags. 9. Remove the Right and Left Side Covers. 10. Remove Inner Tour Pak Molded Liner. 11. Disconnect the Tour Pak wiring. 12. Remove five ¼ – 20 HHCS, ¼ – 20 nyloc nuts, and Aluminum Spacers. 13. Remove Tour Pak from Top Support Tube. 14. Loosen Muffler Clamp on both Mufflers and remove 2 5/16 – 18 HHCS per Muffler. Remove and discard both Mufflers. Save Muffler Clamps. 15. Remove and discard Muffler Support Plates. 16. Remove both ¼ – 20 HHCS and Front Saddle Bag Brackets. 17. Remove the twelve 5/16 – 18 Torx HCS six 5/16 – 18 nuts, and the Left and Right Saddle Bag Guards. 18. Remove the Air Line Junction from the Rear Fender. 19. Disconnect the Rear Lamp Wiring Harness and remove from T-stud Clip.
6 20. Remove two 5/16 – 18 Phillips head screws. Remove the Left and Right Frame Covers. 21. Remove two 5/16 – 18 Torx HCS. Remove and save the Top Tour Pak Support Tube Top. 22. Remove four 5/16 – 18 Torx HCS. Remove the Left and Right Rear Saddle Bag Guard Support Bracket. 23. Remove four 5/16 – 18 HHCS. Remove and save the Tour Pak Support Tube Bottom. 24. Remove and discard the Air Valve Assembly Bracket. 25. Remove four ½ – 13 HHCS and washers. Remove and discard both Rear Air Shock Absorbers. NOTE: if ABS equipped refer to separate instructions. NOTE: if ABS equipped refer to separate instructions. NOTE: if ABS equipped refer to separate instructions. NOTE: if ABS equipped refer to separate instructions. 26. Drain all Brake Fluid from the Rear Brake System. 27. Cut and remove Cable ties and un-clamp Wire Harness Loops from the Rear Brake Line along its length, including Clamps on Swing Arm. 28. Remove the 10 – 24 flanged HHCS and Rear Brake Hose Clamp from the Right Rear Fork Bracket. 29. Remove ¼ – 20 SHCS from Rear Stop Lamp Switch Bracket. 30. Remove and discard Banjo Bolt and Crush Washers on Rear Brake Caliper. 31. Remove the Spring Clip and nut from the Rear Axle. 32. Remove Rear Axle and Rear Wheel Spacers. 33. Push Rear Wheel Assembly forward and slip Rear Belt off of the Rear Sprocket. 34. Remove Rear Brake Caliper. 35. Slide Rear Wheel Assembly rearward. Remove one 5/16 – 18 Torx HCS from inside the Rear Fender well. 36. Slide Rear Wheel Assembly forward. Remove two 5/16 – 18 Torx HCS. Remove Rear Fender. 37. Remove and save the two Retaining Washers from the Stud Plate. Remove and save the Stud Plate

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How to Replacing Rear Main Seal 1

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 24-11-2010

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The next day I woke up early and drank lots of coffee before going out to the garage. I knew I had two distinct problems confronting me. First, I would have to purchase an impact tool in order to loosen the six bolts holding the clutch together. Also, I would have to purchase at least three 8mm by 50mm bolts and nuts in order to prevent the clutch from exploding when the six bolts were unscrewed. For the third time in two days, I went to Sears and asked the salesman, (who I now I knew as Art,) where I could find an impact tool. He did not know what it was I was looking for, but he asked another employee and soon I had the tool as well as a 6mm Allen socket. Unfortunately, the Allen socket only came in 3/8″ drive, and the impact tool only came in 1/2″ drive. Thinking quickly, I purchased a 1/2″ to 3/8″ adapter, as well as a 3lb. dead- blow hammer. On the way home, I stopped at a Chief Auto Parts to buy the bolts I would need. The closest size they had were 8mm by 40mm, which was nearly 10mm too short. I was unsure whether the clutch cover bolts were coarse thread or fine thread, so I bought three of each, along with corresponding nuts. Finally, around 11 o’clock in the morning, I was back at the garage ready to work. I prepared the impact tool and placed the adapter and the Allen socket on it. I began to hammer on the end of the tool, trying to loosen each of the six bolts. None of them seemed to move, even though it seemed the impact tool was turning. Finally, I put the Allen socket on the breaker bar and found that all of the bolts had actually come loose. The tension from the clutch spring made it nearly impossible to see, however. I removed three of the bolts in a triangular pattern. Into these empty holes I threaded the fine- thread 40mm bolts with nuts attached and tightened them evenly. I was now able to remove the remaining Allen bolts. By slowly turning and loosening the nuts evenly on the 40mm bolts, I relieved the pressure from the clutch spring until the cover plate was free. I removed the cover plate, the clutch, the pressure plate, and finally the clutch spring. I had already marked each of the elements with Whiteout to insure that they would fit together the same way on installation. Apparently, this is essential as the flywheel could be rendered out-of-balance if the clutch components are not installed correctly. The flywheel itself was now exposed. I could see the five bolts that attached it to the crankshaft. I now used a tool I had fabricated. Although the manual describes two possible tools that can be fabricated, I found a piece of metal that resembled the tool and decided to use it. Unfortunately it was not strong enough and broke. I turned and looked at my workbench, and noticed a bracket which I had previously fabricated for mounting a mirror on my Vespa. The piece of steel was extremely strong and was already pre-drilled with correct-sized holes. It fit perfectly, so I placed it over the exposed bolt which protruded from the case, and placed the other end on one of the 40mm bolts, which I then bolted into the flywheel itself. I used the breaker bar again and removed the five bolts. The flywheel came loose after inserting two more 40mm bolts and tugging on them evenly

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GL1800 Goldwing Trike Conversion Kit Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 10-11-2010

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Disassembly of motorcycle: 1. Place the motorcycle on the center stand or lift. 2. Set the shock preload to zero. 3. Remove the four m8 x 1.25 SHCS from the passenger handles and remove seat. 4. Remove the rear side covers. 5. Disconnect negative battery terminal. 6. Remove the four m8 x 1.25 SHCS and the passenger floorboards. 7. Remove the six m5 x 0.80 BHCS and the foot rest under cover. 8. Remove the six m5 x .80 BHCS and the swing arm pivot bolt covers. 9. Remove the four m8 x 1.25 flange bolts on the rear crash guards. Remove and discard the rear crash guards and bolts. 10. Remove the four #2 Phillips head screws from the inside of the trunk to remove the trim pieces on the sides. 11. Remove the two #2 Phillips head screws in the rear trim molding and remove molding. 12. Remove the seven #2 Phillips head screws from the lower trunk cover. Remove the lower trunk cover. 13. Remove the five #2 Phillips head screws from the trunk opener cover. Remove the trunk opener cover. 14. Disconnect the left and right saddlebag release cables. 15. Remove the five m6 x 1.0 BHCS in the rear fender panel. Remove and discard the rear fender panel and cap screws. 16. Disconnect the trunk wiring. 17. Remove the four m6 x 1.0 flange screws. Remove the trunk from the saddlebag / trunk stay. 7 18. 2005 and older 2005 and older 2005 and older 2005 and older ABS equipped motorcycles: ABS equipped motorcycles: ABS equipped motorcycles: ABS equipped motorcycles: Remove rubber bungee from ABS Control Unit, and save for reinstallation. 19. Remove the two side cover grommets from each saddlebag. ( 4 grommets total ) 20. Remove the left and right hand saddlebag latches, strikers, and release cables for core parts return. Refer to Honda service manual. 21. Remove the left and right saddlebag taillights and sub- harnesses for core parts return . Refer to Honda service manual. 22. Remove the four m6 x 1.0 flange bolts from each saddlebag. Remove and discard the saddlebags. 23. Remove the six m6 x 1.0 flange bolts from the exhaust tips. Slide the tip off the muffler body. Save tips and bolts for reinstallation. 24. Loosen the four m8 x 1.25 SHCS on the muffler clamps. Remove the two m8 x 1.25 flange bolts. Remove and discard the mufflers and muffler gaskets. 25. Remove the four m6 x 1.0 BHCS, two rubber washers, and front fender A. 26. Remove the four m5 x .80 BHCS and chrome front fender covers. 27. 2006 & UP. 2006 & UP. 2006 & UP. 2006 & UP. Remove the Remove the Remove the Remove the two m6 x two m6 x two m6 x two m6 x 1.0 flange bolts on 1.0 flange bolts on 1.0 flange bolts on 1.0 flange bolts on rear of saddlebag/trunk stay. rear of saddlebag/trunk stay. rear of saddlebag/trunk stay. rear of saddlebag/trunk stay. 28. Unplug connector and remove amp and save for Unplug connector and remove amp and save for Unplug connector and remove amp and save for Unplug connector and remove amp and save for reinstallation. reinstallation. reinstallation. reinstallation. 29. Cut lower saddlebag supports off the saddlebag/trunk stay, where the round tubing meets the square, and cut the gusset flush, removing any burrs. See Figure 1. 30. Remove trunk stay for later use. 31. Remove the two m5 x .80 nuts on the license plate light. Remove and discard the license plate ligh

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Harley Davidson Road Rod Saddle Bag System Kit INSTALLATION Instructions

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 16-04-2012

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Use locktite on all fasteners!! 2. Put bike on lift and place jack under frame. Raise bike to lift rear wheel. 3. If swing arm pivot shaft is drilled and tapped on each end, they need to be redrilled and tapped to 3/8-16 to a depth of _” deep. If you are unable to drill & tap your swing arm pivot shaft, you can purchase one from Cycle Visions (part #CV6121), See Harley Davidson® V-Rod® Service Manual Section 2, Page 2.89 for removal and installation instructions. 4. Remove seat, passenger seat, turn signal module, rear fender cover, turn signal license plate assembly, and rear foot peg assemblies. NOTE: Our bag system will not work with stock exhaust system… we recommend the 2-into-1 Supertrap, or you may use any exhaust system that is lower than the rear axle bolt. 5. Remove the two upper shock bolts. Relocate the shock spacer from the right side to the left side, and use the new spacer supplied on the right side. 6. Install front bag mount between frame and spacer (see Figure 1), reinstall shock bolts and torque to 31-50 lbs. 7. Install lower bag support frame to swing arm pivot shaft using the 3/8″ bolt through rear foot peg clevis and cover (see in Figure 2). NOTE: There is a right and left covers and bag support, install accordingly. Torque to 35 foot lbs. 8. Install rear fender front mounting tabs using 8mm 1.25 x _ and flat washers (supplied in kit) (see Figure 3). 9. Install upright saddlebag support brackets to the lower bag mount assembly and lower fender extension crossover mount. (see Figure 4). Torque to 25 lbs. NOTE: Install crossover mount with gusset facing down. 10. Remove license plate light from your rear turn signal bracket license plate assembly. Install license plate light on our license plate light bracket (see Figure 5). 11. Install the license plate bracket on the inside of the rear fender extension using the top holes of the license plate frame (see Figure 6 & 7). 12. Install fender washers on the inside of the fender extension (see Figure 8). 13. Install upper fender bracket to rear fender extension with a _-20 bolt supplied in kit (see Figure 9). 14. Install rear fender extension with chrome button fitted bolts. (see Figure 10 & 11). 15. To check alignment and fit of rear fender extension reinstall original rear fender. Once you have everything lined up and fitted, remove original rear fender, drill & tap (2) two 5/16 x 18 holes in rear fender support bracket (see Figure 12). 16. Install Harley Davidson® Part #70909-95 and 47449-97 bracket and receptacle on front and rear bag supports (see Figure 13 & 14). 17. Install Harley Davidson® Part #47449-97 bracket with receptable (see Figure 14). Make sure the bolts come from the inside out. This bracket is adjustable for location.

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HARLEY DAVIDSON DYNA REAR STOP/ TAIL/ TURN SIGNAL RELOCATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 29-03-2011

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PREPARATION NOTE Position the motorcycle upright using a suitable lift or jack. To prevent accidental vehicle start-up, which could cause death or serious injury, remove main fuse before proceeding. (00251b) 1. Refer to the service manual and follow instructions to remove the main fuse. 2. Follow the service manual instructions to remove the seat. 3. Raise the rear of the vehicle to allow access to the underside of the rear fender. LICENSE BRACKET AND ILLUMINATOR REMOVAL For Models WITHOUT a Center Tail Lamp NOTE See Figure 1. The reflector mounting block (2) is held to the fender (1) with double sided tape. Remove with care to avoid scratching paint. 1 3 2 5 4 6 7 is06256 1. Rear fender 2. Rear reflector and mounting block 3. Wire channel (2) 4. License plate bracket mount 5.5/16-18 screw (2) 6. License plate illuminator 7. M4 screw (2) Figure 1. Rear Fender, Models Without Center Tail Lamp 1. Remove the rear reflector and mounting block (2) from the underside of the rear fender (1). 2. Remove the license plate from the vehicle (if installed). Retain the plate and attaching hardware. NOTE Before removing rear wiring, note wire routing. -J04856 1 of 10 3. Remove the rear lamp wiring from behind the wire channels (3) on the underside of the fender. 4. Disconnect the two-way license lamp connector [93] and the four-way right [18] and left [19] stop/tail/turn (STT) lamp connectors from the STT module in the area under the seat. 5. Remove the two 5/16-18 screws (5) retaining the license plate bracket mount assembly (4) to the fender support. 6. Remove the license plate illuminator (6) from the license plate bracket mount assembly. Save the illuminator. The bracket mount (4) and four screws (5, 7) can be discarded. 7. Proceed to License Bracket and Illuminator Assembly . For Models WITH a Center Tail Lamp NOTE On these models, the license plate illuminator is part of the center tail lamp and is not removed. 1. Remove the three screws retaining the license plate bracket to the tail lamp housing. Remove the bracket and set aside for later assembly. 2. Proceed to Rear Lamp Wiring, For Models WITH a Center Tail Lamp and RED Stop/Turn Signals or AMBER Turn Signals . LICENSE BRACKET AND ILLUMINATOR ASSEMBLY For Models WITHOUT a Center Tail Lamp 1. See Figure 7. Get the new license plate bracket (3), illuminator cover (4), spacer (6) and two M4 screws (5) from the kit, and the license plate illuminator (A) removed from the original equipment (OE) license plate bracket. 2. See Figure 2. Assemble the illuminator (1), spacer (2) and cover (3) to the license plate bracket (5) in the sequence shown, and tighten the screws (4) securely. 3. Get the STT relocation weldment (6), two screws (7) and two flat washers (8) from the kit. 4. Apply a few drops of Loctite 271 – Red to the clean screw threads. Assemble the license plate bracket to the weldment as shown, and tighten the screws to 120 in-lbs (13.6 N-m) . NOTE If using a metal tool to install the black nuts, protect the finish with cloth or paper to prevent damage. 5. Loosely install the black painted nuts (9) onto the threaded studs on each side of the STT relocation weldment. 6. Remove the wires and socket terminals from the two-way license plate illuminator socket housing. Set the socket housing aside for later installation

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Triumph Bonneville, Bonneville T100, Thruxton & Scrambler Dresser Rail / Sissy Bar / Grab Rail Kits Fitting Instructions

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Filed Under (Triumph) by admin on 29-10-2010

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1. Undo and remove the two screws and flanged sleeves (if fitted) from the rear of the riders seat. 2. Remove the seat. 3. Disconnect the battery, negative (black) lead first. 4. Locate the rear light unit wiring connector and disconnect it from the main wiring harness. 1. Rear light unit wiring connector NOTE Take care not to damage the painted finish of the mudguard. 5. Undo the four screws securing the rear mudguard to the frame, then remove the mudguard assembly from the motorcycle. 1. Rear mudguard fixings Warning Throughout this operation, ensure that the motorcycle is stabilised and adequately supported on a paddock stand to prevent risk of injury from the motorcycle falling. Warning A torque wrench of known accurate calibration must be used when fitting this accessory kit. Failure to tighten any of the fasteners to the correct torque specification may result in loss of motorcycle control and an accident. 1 1 3 of 4 6. Position the dresser rail to the frame and secure with six of the supplied M8 x 20 mm bolts (four at the rear and one on either side at the front). Tighten the bolts to 18 Nm. Scrambler only – Fit four M8 washers between the dresser rail and the rear mounting points. 1. Rear mounting points 2. M8 washer positions (Scrambler only) 1. Front mounting point (left-hand shown) 7. Ensure the rear light wiring grommet is correctly located in the front edge of the mudguard then, taking care not to damage its painted finish, position the rear mudguard to the frame. 8. Ensure the mudguard is correctly located to the rear of the airbox then secure with the original fixings tightening them to 9 Nm. 9. Ensure the wiring for the rear light unit is correctly routed then reconnect it to the main wiring harness connector. Sissy bar installation 1. Using the M8 x 20 mm bolts and spacers, loosely secure each sissy bar to the dresser rail. 1. Spacers 2. M8 x 20 mm bolts 2. Fit an end cap to each sissy bar. 3. Using the supplied M6 x 12 mm bolts and nuts, secure the backplate to the sissy bars. Ensure the badge on the backplate is facing towards the rear of the motorcycle then tighten the fixings to 8 Nm

HARLEY DAVIDSON TRI-BAR AUXILIARY RUNNING LIGHT/ BRAKE LIGHT ASSEMBLY REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 02-03-2011

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REMOVAL 1. Remove the saddlebags and left side cover. To prevent accidental vehicle start-up, which could cause death or serious injury, remove main fuse before proceeding. (00251b) 2. Remove the main fuse. 3. See Figure 1. Remove six flange nuts (1) from the right and left fender stud plates (2). 1 2 3 5 4 is04366a 1. Nut 2. Stud plate 3. Rear fascia 4. TORX screw 5. Lamp assembly Figure 1. FLHX Rear Fascia and Lamp 4. On the left side of the motorcycle, loosen the set screw and unscrew the radio antenna mast. 5. Gently open the adhesive conduit at the split line to release the rear fascia light harness. 6. At the rear of the motorcycle, spread the top of the fascia to release from the top studs at the side of the fender and then pull the bottom in a downward direction to release the fascia from the fender. If necessary, gently wiggle the fascia while pulling. 7. 2006-2008 models only: On the left side of the motorcycle, remove the bolt (with flat washer) to remove the passenger seat strap and saddlebag front mounting bracket from the chrome frame tube cover. 8. Remove the screw and chrome frame tube cover. NOTE ALL models: Make note of the wire routing and location of all cable straps. New light wiring installs the same way. 9. See Figure 2. Release the rear fascia light wires from the wire clip (1). Cut the cable straps (2) to release the rear fascia light harness (3) and radio antenna cable. 10. 2006-2008 models: Disconnect the rear fascia light connector [12B] located inboard of the upper frame tube. 2009 and later models: Disconnect the rear fascia light connector [12B] located to the rear of the fuse panel. 11. See Figure 1. Remove the two T-20 TORX® screws to release the light assembly from the fascia. Save the screws for installation of the new light. 1 3 4 2 is04378 1. Wire clip 2. Cable strap 3. Fascia light harness 4. Flange nut Figure 2. Rear Fascia Light Harness INSTALLATION 1. Route the rear fascia light wires forward through the cable clip at the top of the radio antenna bracket and then upward in front of the saddlebag rear mounting bracket to the inboard side of the upper frame tube. 2. 2006-2008 models: On the inboard side of the upper frame tube, mate the pin and socket housings of the rear fascia light connector [12]. 2009 and later models: To the rear of the fuse panel, mate the pin and socket housings of the rear fascia light connector [12]. 3. Using the slotted hole, install a new cable strap to secure the rear fascia light wires and radio antenna cable to the rear fender support. 4. Install a new cable strap to secure the rear fascia light wires and radio antenna cable to the shoulder of the upper frame tube (just in front of the air valve mounting bracket).

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