removing frt forks on 07 roadking

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SUSPENSION SERVICE TOOLS/ FORK DAMPER ROD BLEED TOOL

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 30-11-2010

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33 SHOP EQUIPMENT & TOOLS SUSPENSION SERVICE TOOLS K&L FORK TUBE U-BLOCKS Precision machined from billet aluminum, these quality three piece sets are a handy, accurate and safe way to straighten and check fork tubes. 35-9411 36mm (for 33 thru 36mm tubes) 35-9412 40mm (for 37 thru 40mm tubes) 35-9413 43mm (for 41 thru 43mm tubes) 35-9414 46mm (for 44 thru 46mm tubes) 35-1964 35-8579 35-7995 DAMPER ROD HOLDERS Holds damper rod when disassembling forks. 35-8578 Yamaha front forks, 43mm Kayaba YZ125/250 (1988) YZ490 (88-90) 35-8579 Yamaha YZ125/250 with UD(upside down) forks FORK DAMPER ROD TOOLS Sold each. 35-7995 Combination Fork Damper Tool Designed to hold the damper rod during assembly & disassembly of Honda XR400′s or Suzuki DR-Z400S. One end features spanner type prongs for the XR400 and the other a 27mm hex for Suzuki. 35-1964 Combination Damper Rod Fork Tool Designed for assembly and disassembly of most inverted Kayaba and Showa 41mm, 43mm, 46, and 47mm forks. Use one end for Kayaba forks and the other for Showa forks. (not required for 91-92 Honda CR models) ROD HOLDER Double sided damper rod holder. Works on Kayaba U.D (upside down) 41mm forks. 35-8580 Yamaha YZ125/250Amodels (89-90) FRONT FORK CAP SOCKET Designed to remove and install Yamaha front fork caps with female hex head. Sold each. 35-8571 14mm female socket 35-8573 19mm female socket FORK DAMPER ROD HOLDERS Holds damper rod when disassembling and assembling front forks. 35-8576 Use for Yamaha 43mm Kayaba forks, 30mm hex YZ125 (84-87), YZ250 (81-87) IT250 (1983) YZ490 (82-87) 35-8577 Use for Yamaha 38mm Kayaba forks, 24mm hex YZ125 (81-83), IT175 (82-83), IT250 (81-82) YZ250 (77-80), YZ400 (77-79), IT465 (81-82) FORK CAP WRENCH Designed to remove the front fork caps on late model Honda CR’s and Suzuki RM’s. Can also be used for adjusting compression. One end of wrench is 49mm, the other is 50mm. Sold each. 35-7803 Fork Cap Wrench 35-8576 35-8577 35-8571 35-8573 6 Point Hex 35-8578

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DUCATI TITANIUM EXHAUST SYSTEM INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Ducati) by admin on 26-10-2010

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BILLET BRAKE RADIAL MOUNTS Moto Corse brake radial mounts are crafted by precision machine tools as shown, the caliper mount is “box” type precision tooled from single ERGAL 7075 solid piece. The result: performance, reduced weight, quality and beauty unmatched by none used extensively in moto gp as standard technology Moto Corse delivers moto gp technology for the ultimate performance. The kit is available for caliper with bolt distance 108mm or 100mm and includes all the parts to assemble it on the bike. 102143002 102143003 102143005 102143006 102143008 102143009 102143011 raDial MOunt Kit FOr OHlins rOaD &tracK Ø 43 FrOnt FOrKs FOr breMbO racing calipers screW Distance 108MM raDial MOunt Kit FOr OHlins rOaD &tracK Ø 43 FrOnt FOrKs FOr breMbO racing calipers screW Distance 108MM raDial MOunt Kit FOr OHlins rOaD &tracK Ø 43 FrOnt FOrKs FOr breMbO street calipers screW Distance 100MM raDial MOunt Kit FOr OHlins rOaD &tracK Ø 43 FrOnt FOrKs FOr breMbO street calipers screW Distance 100MM raDial MOunt Kit FOr sHOWa Ø 43 FrOnt FOrKs FOr breMbO street calipers screW Distance 100MM raDial MOunt Kit FOr sHOWa Ø 43 FrOnt FOrKs FOr breMbO street calipers screW Distance 100MM raDial MOunt Kit FOr sHOWa Ø 43 FrOnt FOrKs FOr breMbO street calipers screW Distance 100MM Ducati 999s/999r/749r Ducati 748r/996sps/996r/998r/998 eF Ducati 748r/996sps/996r/998r/998 eF Ducati 999s/999r/749/r Ducati 749/749s/999 748/998 – MOnster 1000/s4/s2r Ducati MultistraDa 1000D

Triumph Bonneville America And Speedmaster The Freak Installation Instructions and Parts List

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Filed Under (Triumph) by admin on 29-10-2010

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INSTALLATION In order to install The Freak, the factory air-box must be removed. Because of it’s design, the factory air-box is not an item that is easily removed. There are several parts that must be removed in order to get the air-box out of the bike in one piece. We recommend using the following method to remove your air box without having to cut it into smaller pieces in order to get it out of the frame. 1. PARTS REMOVAL In order to gain access to the air-box, it is necessary to remove certain parts of the motorcycle to gain access to the air-box area of the frame. Removing the following parts should be the first steps you take. A. Seats – Remove both seats starting with the passenger pillion, if applicable. B. Side cover and grommets – Remove the plastic side cover on the right side (throttle side) of your motorcycle. This is the faux oil-tank cover that has the name of your bike on it. Underneath the side cover there are three rubber grommets (1 on the frame tab, and two on the air-box) that support the side cover. Remove the two that are on the air-box and leave the one on the frame. You will attach the two that you removed to the right side bracket in Section 4C . C. Faux air filter covers – On the right side of the bike, remove the chrome faux air filter covers, by removing the one allen head screw that holds it onto the air-box. On the left hand side (clutch side) remove the faux air filter cover in the same manner, you removed the one on the right. D. Plastic shrouds – on the left side, remove the black plastic air-box shroud, by removing the two allen head screws holding it in place. Then remove the plastic shroud covering your fuse box (this is the piece that surrounds your ignition terminal next to the battery). E. Battery – Remove the battery by unscrewing the torx-head bolt that holds the chrome bracket in place. Remove the chrome bracket and the black plastic cap. Tilt the battery out of the box with the top towards you. Disconnect both battery terminal connectors, negative (-) terminal first. Remove the battery. F. Battery box – Remove the two bolts that hold the battery box to the frame. Pull the battery box out as far as you can, then remove the the ignition terminal from the battery box, by removing the two allen screws that hold it in place from the back. Next, remove the fuse box from the battery box, by pushing it out from the back. It is not necessary to disconnect any of the wiring going to the fuse box, or the ignition terminal. G. Rear fender – Remove the rear fender, by first disconnecting the taillight wires. Follow the wires from the tail light assembly on the inside of the rear fender (left side) towards the front of the bike until you come to the box connector. Disconnect the tail light wires at this connector, being careful not to break it. Once the wiring is disconnected, remove the 6 bolts that hold it to the struts. Have someone hold the fender for you while you are removing all of the bolts so that it does not drop once the bolts are removed. Slide the fender out the rear of the bike. 2. PREPARE THE MOTORCYCLE FOR AIR-BOX REMOVAL To remove the factory air-box without damaging it, it is necessary to lift the bike. We recommend the use of a multi-position ATV/motorcycle jack with a minimum lift height of 10″. A. Setting up the lift – Place the lift under your bike and secure your bike to the lift according to the lift manufacturer’s instructions. B. Raise slightly – Lift the motorcycle to the point where the rear springs are without tension, but NOT to where the rear tire is off the ground. C. Remove the rear springs – Take off each of the rear springs by removing the the two bolts on each spring. Once all the bolts are removed gently pull the springs out off of the studs. If they do not pull off easily, you can raise or lower the bike slightly with the lift to ease tension on the spring. Remember, you should not have the rear tire off the ground at this point. The bike should only be raised enough to relax the tension in the springs. D. Remove the mufflers – Remove the mufflers by loosening the clamp at the exhaust header, and by removing the rear foot peg hangers. If the mufflers are not removed, they can become damaged by the axles in Section 2H . E. Disconnect the carburetors – With a small flathead screwdriver, pull the retainer springs out of the channel of the carburetor intake tubes (the two large black tubes coming from the air box into the back of each carburetor), and simply push them towards the air box off of the carbs

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Ducati Front Suspension and Wheel Installation Manual

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Filed Under (Ducati) by admin on 26-10-2010

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It is important to follow the proper installation sequence for installing the front suspension components. With out doing so it is possible to incorrectly align the front axle in the forks or misalign the forks themselves. Be careful to tighten the pinch bolts for the forks and the axle to the correct torque as many of the large diameter axles are thin-walled and can become permanently distorted if over- torqued. It is also possible to distort the fork stanchions or overstress the triple clamp with excessive torque. The forks derive a significant portion of there rigidity from a strong junction with the axle and triple clamp. Always sequentially cross tighten the pinch bolts to allow an even compression. Cogent Dynamics recommends measuring your fork position (height of the “legs”) using the bottom surface of the lower triple clamp as the datum point as shown in the Ducati service manual. Once the height is correctly set, clamp the lower pinch bolts to hold the forks in this position. The top clamp should have all three pinch bolts loose at this point (this includes the steering stem pinch bolt). Also the steering stem top bolt should be loosened. Clean and grease the axle before inserting it into the wheel. Avoid damaging the thin-walled axle, during installation. Once the axle is inserted through the fork lowers and the, line up the holes in the axle with the holes in the axle clamps so that the through-holes allow screwdriver access to the compression valve adjusters (for forks with the bottom compression adjusters.

HARLEY DAVIDSON CHROME FORK SLIDERS REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 10-02-2011

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REMOVAL 1. Support the motorcycle so the front end is off the floor and the forks are fully extended. 2. Remove the front fender, front brake caliper(s) and front wheel according to instructions found in the Chassis section of the appropriate service manual. NOTE On some models other parts will also need to be removed to access the front forks. See the service manual. 3. For All Models EXCEPT Touring: Drain and remove the front forks. See the service manual. 4. For Touring models equipped with air-adjustable suspension: Bleed the air-adjustable suspension according to the instructions in the appropriate service manual. Wear safety glasses or goggles when servicing fork assembly. Do not remove slider tube caps without relieving spring preload or caps and springs can fly out, which could result in death or serious injury. (00297a) 5. For 2000 and Later Models EXCEPT Touring: See Figure 1. Using a piece of dental floss (or similar material) in a back and forth motion, loosen reflector from fork slider at both ends. Rotate reflector from side-to-side until it can be removed. Save reflector for future use. See Figure 2. Repeat procedure on the opposite side fork slider. Peel off any excess adhesive from both reflectors . Surface must be clean for installation. 6. Disassemble the front fork tubes according to instructions in the service manual. INSTALLATION NOTES The chrome fork sliders included in this kit install in the same manner as the original equipment parts. Refer to the service manual for proper installation procedures. Prior to installation of this kit, check the bores of the new chrome sliders to be certain they are free of dirt and debris or damage to the new sliders may occur. 1. Assemble the front fork tubes, replacing worn seals, bushings or other items as needed. NOTE Do not use an impact wrench to tighten the drain screws. Use of an impact wrench may damage the screws. 2. Tighten the drain screws: •Early Models with 39 mm forks (see Figure 2): Tighten to 13-17 in-lbs (1.5-1.9 Nm) •Early Models with 41 mm forks (see Figure 2): Tighten to 52-78 in-lbs (5.8-8.8 Nm) •Later Models (see Figure 3): Tighten to 52-78 in-lbs (5.8- 8.8 Nm) 3. Fill with TYPE E FORK OIL (99884-80) according to the instructions in the service manual. 4. Install the front fork and any parts that were removed to access the front forks. Install the front fender, wheel and caliper(s) according to instructions in the service manual. 5. For Touring models equipped with air-adjustable suspension: Refill the air-adjustable suspension system after assembly according to the service manual instruc- tions

HARLEY-DAVIDSON SPRINGER FORKS MOUNTING INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 06-04-2012

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1. The shock mounts with the body up —shaft pointing down. The nitrogen fill valve can be positioned toward the rear of the motorcycle. 2. Make sure that both halves of the upper and lower bushings are in place. NOTE: Do not try to install the shock with only half of the bushings, as this will lead to poor performance and premature seal leakage. The amount of “float” in the bushing set is necessary to ensure smooth operation of the damper assembly. 3. It is easiest to install the shock when the forks are fully extended, however the shock can be installed with the bike on the kick stand. 4. Insert the body eye into the mounting channel on the fork crown. Rotate the shock down into the lower channel. NOTE: A thread locking compound such as Red Loctite 262 or other similar product should be used on the shock fasteners. 5. Install the upper mounting stud and nuts, finger tight. 6. Push the shaft up far enough to insert the lower mounting stud and nuts. This will take a little effort because of the gas pressure in the shock. 7. Torque the upper and lower shock mount nuts to 22 ft. lb.

Ktm 690 SM/ SMC/ SMR/ Duke Removal and Installation weld slag

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Filed Under (KTM) by admin on 04-03-2012

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1. Each bike varies with regard to welds and gussets. Review the photos first to get the idea of what needs to be done. 2. These photos may not be your exact model but depict the concept of what must be done. 3. Block the front tire securely before removing the top triple clamp so the tire cannot move at all. See photos. 4. Support the rear tire also, just enough to keep tension on the front tire so the forks stay tight. 5. Warning: Once the triple clamp is loose, the forks can roll away from the bike AND it happens very quickly . 6. The main triple clamp nut adjusts the tension on the steering head bearings. Make note of its tension before removing and do not over tighten the nut. It should be seated just enough to take the play out of the bearing.. 7. The top of the gauge/light cluster is mounted to the top triple clamp. You have to take out 4 self tapping Phillips head screws to remove the gauge pod. There is one connector on the back side of that and then it comes off. Then there are two bolts that need to come out with an 8mm wrench to free the top triple clamp. 8. Loosen the triple clamp pinch bolt under the main nut and forks pinch bolts and remove the top triple clamp, taking note of how tight the main nut is, so you can re-tighten it to the exact amount. Remove the tin bearing shroud (cover) and rubber seal making note of how the seal goes on, (lips face downward). 9. Grease your bearings while you have them exposed. (Keep the grease off the area where our frame bracket mounts!). 10. The goal is to allow the frame bracket to clamp cleanly and squarely around the upper half of the head tube. 11. Review your individual bike’s welding characteristics at the head tube. You’ll notice on the head tube there is a “groove” machined 360 degrees around the head tube. Everything in or above this groove must be clean of welds or slag. If this groove is visible all the way around and no welding slag has extended upward into or past this groove, then you’re installation should be easy. Any welds extending into or above this groove must be filed away, but without changing the clamping area diameter. DO NOT file away the paint on the clamping area if possible. Spend a little more time filing carefully and your bracket will stay tight. 12. Each bike seems to have not only different welds, but slightly different gussets. Evaluate your individual bike to determine the best fit. The bracket must clamp squarely and cleanly to the area just above that groove and yet SIT FLUSH all the way around the diameter of the head tube as per the photo in the lower right corner. Do not allow the bracket to protrude above the seal seating surface. Use a flashlight to see up under the bracket where it’s hitting if it’s not Flush. This bracket has clearance cut into it to clear the backbone of the frame

1996-2004 HONDA XR250R Removing stock carburetor and cables

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 26-11-2011

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Install the throttle cables into the supplied throttle housing and place onto clean handlebar end. 2. Remove the rubber carburetor alignment tabs from the manifold using a razor blade or sharp cutters. This should be done with the rag left in the manifold. Be very careful not to damage the manifold or your hands while doing this!! 3. Remove the hex pipe plug from the carb cap using a 11mm or 7/16 wrench. Do not discard plug, as it will be needed later. Install the metering
adjustment tool included in the hardware kit. Do not over-tighten as damage may occur to cap. 4. Install provided fuel line onto fuel inlet banjo and secure with pinch clamp. 5. Place Edelbrock carburetor into manifold. Do not tighten clamp yet. 6. Remove the cable bracket end from cable bracket using #2 phillips. 7. Install pull cable (see Figure 2) end into
the 4:00 position of the cable wheel and the return cable into the 1:00 position. Secure cables into cable bracket by replacing end piece and phillips screw. See figure 3.

HONDA TRX 400EX Removing Stock Carb and Cables INSTRUCTION

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 21-12-2011

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Remove seat/fender assembly and fuel tank. 2. Remove throttle cables paying close attention to routing. 3. Remove thumb throttle housing if you are installing a twist throttle. 4. Remove air box and air box intake tube. 5. Remove stock carburetor. 6. Stuff a clean rag into intake manifold to keep debris from entering engine. Preparing machine for carburetor installation 1 . Route the provided throttle cables per manufacturer’s recommended procedure, routing them the same as the stock cables. 2 . Remove the rubber alignment tabs from the manifold using a razor blade or cutters. Be very careful not to damage the intake manifold! 3. Remove air box intake tube from the air box and use a hacksaw to cut approx. 1½” off of the air box intake tube. Your tube should resemble the one shown in Figure 1. Re-assemble the air intake tube into air box and install back onto bike. Don’t forget to tighten clamp around intake tube and reinsert crank vent into the air boot. Figure 1. Thumb Throttle Attach cable into cable wheel with the cable end at the 8: 00 position of the cable wheel, then into bracket. Secure by replacing the cable bracket end and phillips screw. See Figure 2. Figure 2. Twist Throttle 1. Install the pull (see figure 4 for cable identification) , cable end into the 8: 00 position and the idle cable end into the 11: 00 position on the cable wheel. See Figure 3

YAMAHA RAPTOR 350 Removing stock carburetor and cables

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 18-01-2012

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remove seat and gas tank. Make sure fuel petcock is in “off” position. 2. Remove throttle cable paying close attention to routing, as the new cable (s) will need too be routed the same. 3. Remove stock carburetor and stock throttle housing. Stuff a clean, dry rag into manifold to keep debris out of motor. 4. Remove stock air box. 5. Remove choke cable from handlebars. 6. Remove carb vent line from bike. Carburetor installation 1. Carefully trim the rubber alignment tab off of the face of the manifold with a razor blade or side cutters. 2. Remove the hex pipe plug from the carb cap using a 11mm or 7/16 wrench. Do not discard plug, as it will be needed later. Install the metering adjustment tool included in the hardware kit. Do not over-tighten as damage may occur to cap. 3. Attach fuel line to carburetor and secure with clamp. 4. Install remote idle cable into tab on top of carburetor. See main manual for this step. NOTE: Nut must be removed from cable before installation 5. Place carburetor into manifold

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