removing inlet rubbers on cb900

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NACA Oil Cooler Inlet Installaiton

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 31-10-2010

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Locate the -01 and -02 components. Trial fit the two parts making sure the rectangular outlet face is flush. De-burr and trim as necessary. Caution: Care should be exercised when working with fiberglass/epoxy components. epoxy resin and sanding dust can cause an allergic reaction. When epoxying components they must be clean and free of oils and residues. 2.0 Lightly sand the mating surfaces of the two components with #150 grit sandpaper. 3.0 Clamp the two components together and check to insure the outlet face is flush. When the Inlet Assembly is installed the outlet will have the oil cooler attached to it. Therefore, the flange must
34. Oil Cooler Inlet Install Arion Aircraft, LLC Revision 0 1/4/2007 Page 35 – 3 be cut back from the outlet face. Mark the two flanges 1/8 inch from the end. Cut away the two flanges. Smooth the edges where the cuts were made. Page 2 Part Number 160904-01Rev.A 4.0 Pilot drill four holes per side to accept 1/8 inch “pop” rivets (not supplied). These rivets should be located at least 1.5 inches apart and centered on the flange. Final drill holes to size. 5.0 Separate the parts and de-burr the rivet holes. Final inspect the components and clean the mating surfaces with epoxy thinner, lacquer thinner, or Methyl Ethyl Ketone (MEK). 6.0 Mix a small quantity of epoxy (not supplied) and coat both mating surfaces of the components. Mate the two components and install the rivets. Allow Inlet to cure for 24 hours. 7.0 Cut out the center of -03 plate using the 160904-02 template supplied. Trial fit the Oil Cooler Attachment Flange. Once it mates properly and is flush with the -01/-02 assembly, lightly sand the mating surfaces of the two components with #150 grit sandpaper. Also, sand an area completely around the flange extending ½” outward from the cut-out on one face only. Final inspect the components and clean the mating surfaces with epoxy thinner, lacquer thinner, or Methyl Ethyl Ketone (MEK). 8.0 Mix a quantity of epoxy (not supplied) thickened with colloidal silica (not supplied) to a paste consistency and coat both mating surfaces of the components. Mate the two components and create a fillet completely around the flange. Allow Inlet to cure for 24 hours

Daytona 675 Motorcycle Race Kit Installation Manual

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Filed Under (Triumph) by admin on 29-10-2010

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Remove the existing cylinder head gasket in line with the procedures detailed in the Daytona 675 service manual. 2. Fit the chosen race kit cylinder head gasket following the procedures detailed in the Daytona 675 service manual. Caution The use of the following race kit cylinder head gaskets will require changes to the fuelling settings. To alter fuelling settings a third party programmable control unit will be required. Item Description Qty 1 Head gasket (t = 0.65mm) 1 1 Head gasket (t = 0.60mm) 1 1 * Page 7 of 29 © Triumph Designs Ltd 2007. Cams, Valve Spring & Sprocket Kits Parts Supplied Camshaft Inlet Kit – A9618055 Camshaft Exhaust Kit – A9618056 Valve Spring Kit – A9618058 Camshaft Sprocket Kit – A9618057 Warning The race kit must be fitted as a complete set. If it is not fitted as a complete set a failure may result which could cause loss of motorcycle control and an accident. Caution The use of the Camshaft, Valve spring & Sprocket race kits detailed below will require changes to the fuelling settings. To alter fuelling settings a third party programmable control unit will be required. 5 5 4 1 3 2 4 3 Item Description Qty 1 Cam assy, inlet, race 1 Item Description Qty 2 Cam assy, exhaust, race 1 Item Description Qty 3 Valve spring, 14.4id, race12 Item Description Qty 4 Sprocket, camshaft, 34T 2 5 Socket head cap screw, Encapsulated, M6x10 4
Page 8 of 29 © Triumph Designs Ltd 2007. NOTE •The standard inlet cam is 9.25mm max lift and 258.50o duration. The race kit inlet cam is 9.25mm max lift and 268.74o duration. •The standard exhaust cam is 8.5mm max lift and 246o duration. The race kit exhaust cam is 8.5mm max lift and 262.21o duration. •The race kit valve spring must be used in conjunction with the standard spring platforms and retainers. The fitted length of the race springs is the same as the standard spring. 1. The race kit valve springs should be assembled in the same manner as the standard valve springs. Follow the procedure detailed in section 3 of the Daytona 675 service manual. Ensure the springs are installed with the close wound, colour coded end of the springs facing downwards, towards the piston. 2. The race kit camshafts should be assembled in the same manner as the standard camshafts. Follow the procedure detailed in section 3 of the Daytona 675 service manual. 3. The race kit cam sprockets should be mounted and secured to the camshafts using the slotted holes in the sprocket. The slotted holes allow adjustment of the valve timing. The circular holes in the sprockets are for Triumph service tool T3880102 and should not be used to mount the sprockets to the camshafts. NOTE •No timing marks are included on the race sprockets. Race engines will typically have different depths skimmed off the cylinder head and, therefore require specific individual timing. 4. The camshafts should be timed using cam degreeing equipment which typically consists of a degree wheel, pointer, dial indicator and piston stop. Optimum cam timing will depend on the exact specification of the engine, but a recommended starting point is 104o IMOP (Inlet Maximum Opening Point) and 104o EMOP (Exhaust Maximum Opening Point). 5. Always check the inlet and exhaust piston to valve clearance for the timing selected to use, before running the engine. You must ensure both clearances are adequate. As a guide, the standard nominal piston to valve clearance is 1.3mm inlet & 1.5mm exhaust

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Triumph Bonneville America And Speedmaster The Freak Installation Instructions and Parts List

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Filed Under (Triumph) by admin on 29-10-2010

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INSTALLATION In order to install The Freak, the factory air-box must be removed. Because of it’s design, the factory air-box is not an item that is easily removed. There are several parts that must be removed in order to get the air-box out of the bike in one piece. We recommend using the following method to remove your air box without having to cut it into smaller pieces in order to get it out of the frame. 1. PARTS REMOVAL In order to gain access to the air-box, it is necessary to remove certain parts of the motorcycle to gain access to the air-box area of the frame. Removing the following parts should be the first steps you take. A. Seats – Remove both seats starting with the passenger pillion, if applicable. B. Side cover and grommets – Remove the plastic side cover on the right side (throttle side) of your motorcycle. This is the faux oil-tank cover that has the name of your bike on it. Underneath the side cover there are three rubber grommets (1 on the frame tab, and two on the air-box) that support the side cover. Remove the two that are on the air-box and leave the one on the frame. You will attach the two that you removed to the right side bracket in Section 4C . C. Faux air filter covers – On the right side of the bike, remove the chrome faux air filter covers, by removing the one allen head screw that holds it onto the air-box. On the left hand side (clutch side) remove the faux air filter cover in the same manner, you removed the one on the right. D. Plastic shrouds – on the left side, remove the black plastic air-box shroud, by removing the two allen head screws holding it in place. Then remove the plastic shroud covering your fuse box (this is the piece that surrounds your ignition terminal next to the battery). E. Battery – Remove the battery by unscrewing the torx-head bolt that holds the chrome bracket in place. Remove the chrome bracket and the black plastic cap. Tilt the battery out of the box with the top towards you. Disconnect both battery terminal connectors, negative (-) terminal first. Remove the battery. F. Battery box – Remove the two bolts that hold the battery box to the frame. Pull the battery box out as far as you can, then remove the the ignition terminal from the battery box, by removing the two allen screws that hold it in place from the back. Next, remove the fuse box from the battery box, by pushing it out from the back. It is not necessary to disconnect any of the wiring going to the fuse box, or the ignition terminal. G. Rear fender – Remove the rear fender, by first disconnecting the taillight wires. Follow the wires from the tail light assembly on the inside of the rear fender (left side) towards the front of the bike until you come to the box connector. Disconnect the tail light wires at this connector, being careful not to break it. Once the wiring is disconnected, remove the 6 bolts that hold it to the struts. Have someone hold the fender for you while you are removing all of the bolts so that it does not drop once the bolts are removed. Slide the fender out the rear of the bike. 2. PREPARE THE MOTORCYCLE FOR AIR-BOX REMOVAL To remove the factory air-box without damaging it, it is necessary to lift the bike. We recommend the use of a multi-position ATV/motorcycle jack with a minimum lift height of 10″. A. Setting up the lift – Place the lift under your bike and secure your bike to the lift according to the lift manufacturer’s instructions. B. Raise slightly – Lift the motorcycle to the point where the rear springs are without tension, but NOT to where the rear tire is off the ground. C. Remove the rear springs – Take off each of the rear springs by removing the the two bolts on each spring. Once all the bolts are removed gently pull the springs out off of the studs. If they do not pull off easily, you can raise or lower the bike slightly with the lift to ease tension on the spring. Remember, you should not have the rear tire off the ground at this point. The bike should only be raised enough to relax the tension in the springs. D. Remove the mufflers – Remove the mufflers by loosening the clamp at the exhaust header, and by removing the rear foot peg hangers. If the mufflers are not removed, they can become damaged by the axles in Section 2H . E. Disconnect the carburetors – With a small flathead screwdriver, pull the retainer springs out of the channel of the carburetor intake tubes (the two large black tubes coming from the air box into the back of each carburetor), and simply push them towards the air box off of the carbs

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2004 CM And PW carburetor inlet covers

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Filed Under (Cobra) by admin on 10-11-2010

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The new design of the 2004 CM & PW allows the easy and rapid cleaning of the airbox with a hose by simply removing the air filter. This process can allow pressurized dirt and/or water to enter the carburetor unless the opening of the carburetor is properly covered. Cobra has a carburetor cover available that fits both the CM & PW model

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1996-2004 HONDA XR250R Removing stock carburetor and cables

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 26-11-2011

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Install the throttle cables into the supplied throttle housing and place onto clean handlebar end. 2. Remove the rubber carburetor alignment tabs from the manifold using a razor blade or sharp cutters. This should be done with the rag left in the manifold. Be very careful not to damage the manifold or your hands while doing this!! 3. Remove the hex pipe plug from the carb cap using a 11mm or 7/16 wrench. Do not discard plug, as it will be needed later. Install the metering
adjustment tool included in the hardware kit. Do not over-tighten as damage may occur to cap. 4. Install provided fuel line onto fuel inlet banjo and secure with pinch clamp. 5. Place Edelbrock carburetor into manifold. Do not tighten clamp yet. 6. Remove the cable bracket end from cable bracket using #2 phillips. 7. Install pull cable (see Figure 2) end into
the 4:00 position of the cable wheel and the return cable into the 1:00 position. Secure cables into cable bracket by replacing end piece and phillips screw. See figure 3.

Bajaj Removing And refitting Automatic Cam Chain Tensioner

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Filed Under (Bajaj) by admin on 31-10-2010

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1. Remove the 2 Flanged Bolts securing the Tensioner Assembly. 2. Remove Tensioner Assembly from the engine block. 3. Unscrew and remove Lock Bolt. 4. Remove Pushrod, Ball & Retainer, Spring and “O” ring. Clean parts thoroughly and apply grease to the Balls & Retainer. Re-assembly procedure : 1. Place Spring on Pushrod and compress the spring beyond the hole in the Pushrod. 2. Insert a pin or wire into the hole in the Pushrod to hold the Spring in its’ compressed position. 3. Place Balls & Retainer onto Pushrod. 4. Insert Pushrod into the Tensioner body with the small flat on the Pushrod facing, and aligned with, the Locking Bolt hole. 5. Insert the Locking Bolt and tighten it against the small flat on the Pushrod to lock the Pushrod in the compressed position. Remove the pin that’s holding the Spring compressed. 6. Install the Tensioner assembly onto the cylinder block and install and tighten both Flanged Bolts. Be sure that the “O” ring has been installed at the base of the flange. 7.Looosen the Lock Bolt to release the Pushrod, then re-tighten the lock bolt

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HONDA TRX 400EX Removing Stock Carb and Cables INSTRUCTION

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 21-12-2011

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Remove seat/fender assembly and fuel tank. 2. Remove throttle cables paying close attention to routing. 3. Remove thumb throttle housing if you are installing a twist throttle. 4. Remove air box and air box intake tube. 5. Remove stock carburetor. 6. Stuff a clean rag into intake manifold to keep debris from entering engine. Preparing machine for carburetor installation 1 . Route the provided throttle cables per manufacturer’s recommended procedure, routing them the same as the stock cables. 2 . Remove the rubber alignment tabs from the manifold using a razor blade or cutters. Be very careful not to damage the intake manifold! 3. Remove air box intake tube from the air box and use a hacksaw to cut approx. 1½” off of the air box intake tube. Your tube should resemble the one shown in Figure 1. Re-assemble the air intake tube into air box and install back onto bike. Don’t forget to tighten clamp around intake tube and reinsert crank vent into the air boot. Figure 1. Thumb Throttle Attach cable into cable wheel with the cable end at the 8: 00 position of the cable wheel, then into bracket. Secure by replacing the cable bracket end and phillips screw. See Figure 2. Figure 2. Twist Throttle 1. Install the pull (see figure 4 for cable identification) , cable end into the 8: 00 position and the idle cable end into the 11: 00 position on the cable wheel. See Figure 3

YAMAHA RAPTOR 350 Removing stock carburetor and cables

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 18-01-2012

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remove seat and gas tank. Make sure fuel petcock is in “off” position. 2. Remove throttle cable paying close attention to routing, as the new cable (s) will need too be routed the same. 3. Remove stock carburetor and stock throttle housing. Stuff a clean, dry rag into manifold to keep debris out of motor. 4. Remove stock air box. 5. Remove choke cable from handlebars. 6. Remove carb vent line from bike. Carburetor installation 1. Carefully trim the rubber alignment tab off of the face of the manifold with a razor blade or side cutters. 2. Remove the hex pipe plug from the carb cap using a 11mm or 7/16 wrench. Do not discard plug, as it will be needed later. Install the metering adjustment tool included in the hardware kit. Do not over-tighten as damage may occur to cap. 3. Attach fuel line to carburetor and secure with clamp. 4. Install remote idle cable into tab on top of carburetor. See main manual for this step. NOTE: Nut must be removed from cable before installation 5. Place carburetor into manifold

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YAMAHA YFM 350 Removing stock carburetor and cables.

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 19-01-2012

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Remove seat and gas tank. Make sure fuel petcock is in “off” position. 2. Remove throttle cable paying close attention to routing, as the new cable (s) will need too be routed the same. 3. Remove stock carburetor and stock throttle housing. Preparing motor for carburetor install 1. Remove stock manifold from cylinder head. 2. Place supplied o’ring into aluminum flange as pictured in figure 1. Figure 1. 3. Install aluminum and rubber flange to motor using supplied bolts. See Figure 2. The shorter 25mm bolt will need to be placed in the bottom hole. IMPORTANT NOTE: Install the aluminum flange with the o’ring towards the motor and the thick side up.

KAWASAKI ZX-6R/ RR Carbon Fiber /Aluminum Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 25-10-2010

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1 After bike is cool make sure the bike is secured before beginning the installation. 2 Remove the fairing retaining clips and mounting bolt. Remove the stock mid pipe and muffler. 3 Apply a small amount of high temperature silicone (such as Permatex Ultra Black) to the inside of the exhaust inlet. 4 Attach the LOR exhaust canister to the slip-on tube adapter with the spring tabs aligned (make sure your hands are protected with a pair of gloves in case the tubes slip). You may have to squeeze the mid-pipe adapter tube to fit into the exhaust inlet as the mandrel bends may become slightly out of round due to a cut near the bend (the tube will take form once connected). Slide the canister all the way until the slip-on adapter seats fully against the exhaust inlet. Wipe off any excess silicone. 5 Place each spring over the exhaust side spring tabs and use the spring tool to pull the springs over the adapter spring tabs. Both springs must be secured for proper installation. 6 Apply a small amount of silicone sealer (such as permatex Ultra Black or Ultra Copper) to the inside (inlet side) of the slip-on adapter. Slide the low profile barrel clamp over the LevelOne Adapter pipe. Slide the slip-on adapter pipe over the stock header collector. Do not fully tighten the barrel clamp. 7 Place the round canister clamp with the rubber gasket over the rear of the exhaust and slide to the clamp location. Insert the original stock screw and 8mm washer through the exhaust clamp and finally through the foot peg. Mount the clamp to the outside of the stock muffler bracket. On the opposite side (towards the bike) place the stock 8mm lock washer and stock 8mm nut and start the thread. Do not fully tighten at this time. 8 Standing at the rear of the motorcycle, check the alignment of the muffler. You can adjust/rotate both the exhaust and mid-pipe adapter until the muffler is aligned properly. 9 Once everything is aligned fully tighten the exhaust canister clamp. 10 Fully tighten the low profile barrel clamp over the stock header. 11 Before you start the bike make sure all fingerprints and dirt have been removed from the canister and slip-on adapter. You may use rubbing alcohol to clean the slip-on adapter. After 75-100 miles check all bolts, etc for tightness. It is recommended to apply some light – medium grade thread locker to prohibit any bolts from loosening under the vibration from the bike. 12 Enjoy your LevelOne Racing exhaust system