removing spark plug on bmw f650gs

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SUZUKI SV1000 PERIODIC MAINTENANCE

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Filed Under (Suzuki) by admin on 26-02-2011

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MAINTENANCE AND TUNE-UP PRO- CEDURES This section describes the servicing procedures for each item of the Periodic Maintenance requirements. AIR CLEANER I Inspect every 6 000 km (4 000 miles, 6 months) and replace every 18 000 km (11 000 miles, 18 months) . • * Remove the seat. (LF6-7) • * Lift and support the feul tank . (C-74-65) • * Remove the air cleaner box cap O. • * Remove the air cleaner element O. • * Carefully use air hose to blow the dust from the cleaner ele- ment. CAUTION Always use air pressure on the throttle body side of the air cleaner element . If air pressure is used on the other side, dirt will be forced into the pores of the air cleaner element thus restricting air flow through the air cleaner element . PERIODIC MAINTENANCE 2-5 2-6PERIODIC MAINTENANCE • * Reinstall the cleaned or new air cleaner element in the reverse order of removal . CAUTION If driving under dusty condition, clean the air cleaner element more frequently. The surest way to accelerate engine wear is to use the engine without the element or to use a ruptured element. Make sure that the air cleaner is in good condition at all times. Life of the engine depends largely on this component! NOTE: When cleaning the air cleaner element, drain water from the air cleaner by removing the drain plug . SPARK PLUG Inspect every 6 000 km (4 000 miles, 6 months) and replace every 12 000 km (7 500 miles, 12 months) . No. 1 (FRONT) SPARK PLUG REMOVAL • * Remove the radiator mounting bolt O. • * Move the radiator forward. • * Remove the spark plug cap O. NOTE: Be careful not to damage the radiator fins . A WARNING The hot radiator and the hot engine can burn you . Wait until the radiator and the engine are cool enough to touch . • * Remove the spark plug with a spark plug wrench. 1 6 I It No. 2 (REAR) SPARK PLUG REMOVAL • * Remove the seat. (r–,-6-7) • * Lift and support the fuel tank . (=4-65) 4-65) • * Disconnect the camshaft position sensor 1O and breather hose (Z. • * Remove the rubber heat shield ® . • * Remove the spark plug cap . • * Remove the spark plug with a spark plug wrench . HEAT RANGE • * Check to see the heat range of the plug . CARBON DEPOSIT •Check to see if there are carbon deposits on the plugs . If carbon is deposited, remove it with a spark plug cleaner machine or carefully using a tool with a pointed end . SPARK PLUG GAP • * Measure the plug gap with a thickness gauge . If out of specification, adjust it to the following gap . 09900-20803 : Thickness gauge Spark plug gap OA Standard: 0.6 – 0 .7 mm (0.024 -0.028 in) ELECTRODES CONDITION •Check to see the worn or burnt condition of the electrodes . If it is extremely worn or burnt, replace the plug . And also replace the plug if it has a broken insulator, damaged thread . CAUTION Confirm the thread size and reach when replacing the plug. If the reach is too short, carbon will be deposited on the screw portion of the plug hole and engine damage may result

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BMW R 1200 C And R 850 C REPAIR MANUAL

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Filed Under (BMW) by admin on 22-11-2010

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BMW Inspection 1000 km/600 miles I -BMW Service II -BMW Inspection III -BMW Annual Service IV Reading out MoDiTeC fault memory (Inspections I, II, III and IV) • Remove the left air cleaner trim panel. • Connect MoDiTeC to diagnostic plug. • Read out the fault memory. • Perform any repair work indicated. Checking throttle cable play, adjusting if necessary (Inspections I and III) • Check throttle cable for free movement and freedom from abrasion or kinking; renew if neces- sary. • With the steering turned to various angles, open the throttle twistgrip fully and allow it to close again. • When released, the twistgrip must return to the closed position by itself. • Pull back the protective cap. • Preset throttle cable play with the engine cold to 1.5 mm (0.06 in). • Warm the engine up to its regular operating tem- perature. • Adjust throttle cable play to 0.5mm (0.02 in) Changing engine oil, renew oil filter element (Inspections I, II, III and IV) L Note: If the motorcycle is ridden only for short distances or outside temperatures are below 0°C (32°F): change the oil and renew the oil filter element every 3 months, but at least every 3 000 km (1 800 miles). • Change the oil while it is at regular operating temperature. • Remove screw plug. • Unscrew oil drain plug and drain off oil. • Fit new seal and screw in drain plug. • Use oil filter wrench, BMW No. 11 4 650 , to unscrew and remove the oil filter. • Coat sealing ring on new oil filter element with oil and screw in. • Add oil. • Insert and tighten the screw plug. • Check engine oil level with the motorcycle in a horizontal position; use the auxiliary stand, BMW No. 001550 . e Caution: Never add engine oil above the MAX mark. X Tightening torque: Oil filter………………………………………………… 11 Nm Oil drain plug………………………………………… 32 Nm Fill quantity for engine: With oil filter change.. 3.75 l (6.6 Imp. pints/3.96 US quarts) Without oil filter change.. 3.50 l (6.2 Imp. pints/3.69 US quarts) Oil volume between MIN and MAX marks……0.50 l (0.88 Imp. pint/0.52 US quart) Engine oil grade: Brand-name HD oil for four-stroke spark-ignition engine, API classifications SE, SF, SG; combination with CC or CD specification

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1994 – 2004 BMW Motorcycle History

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Filed Under (BMW) by admin on 17-11-2010

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1994 brought many changes to BMW, most obviously by the introduction of the “R259″ series twins and the elimination of the old standby “Airhead” twins that had been BMW’s trademark for seven decades. While it is interesting to look at all the technologies introduced during the 1994 to 2004 time block, it is also exciting to look into what was going on as far as changes in BMW more esoteric than measurable. In this author’s opinion there were unspoken changes in BMW’s mindset and philosophy. BMW had forged it’s reputation for long lasting, simple machines built to the highest standards and quality; aimed at a dwindling, older (OK, Jeff, more mature) market of enthusiastic but eccentric riders. They built motorcycles that were easy for the owners to maintain and modify to fit their specific wants. BMW had always built their bikes their way; often it seemed like they did so in spite of what the younger and upwardly mobile riders were looking for. By 1994, the airhead was simply not a sellable motorcycle; the buying market was younger and wanted performance in line with what the Japanese products offered at much lower prices. The K 75/100 series that were so far ahead of their time in 1984 when they were introduced were also showing their age. No doubt, BMW knew this was coming many years before the new “Oil Head” was introduced. They knew that the riding community had reduced its mean age substantially. The younger riders had money to spend on a bike that had to be BMW, yet had to be totally more modern both in performance and in perception than what BMW had been selling. Thus, the R259 was born. The Birth of the R259 Twins The new BMW corporate mindset, if you will, was no longer concerned with selling motorcycles that would be handed down from one generation to the next, nor was BMW concerned about ease of maintenance with standard hand tools. Although the new bikes were still able to outlast the riders, the concern for building units to last a quarter-million miles was not so much in the forefront of the design. The new models would have to be powerful, fast, handle better than anything on the road; they would need to offer a standard of technology that the Japanese would never build. They should be complex pieces of rolling art. Most obvious, though, was that they would build a product aimed at an entirely new market of riders who would likely not be interested in maintaining the bikes themselves or really understanding the nuances of design. The new customers BMW was looking for were serious riders who were more interested in the fun and excitement of riding than they were in savoring the history of the older designs

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SANYANG HD 125/ 200 Specifications And SERVICE MANUAL

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Filed Under (Sym) by admin on 24-11-2010

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heck and adjustment Fault condition Probable causes Loosen carburetor drain bolt to check if there is gasoline inside the carburetor Fuel supplied tom carburetor sufficient No fuel is supplied to carburetor Remove spark plug, install it into spark plug cap, and perform a spark test against engine ground. Perform cylinder compression pressure test. Check if sparks Weak sparks, no spark at all Low compression pressure or no pressure Re-start by following the starting procedures No ignition There are some signs of ignition, nut engine can not be started Remove the spark plug again and check it. Remove carburetor after 30 minutes and connect a hose onto fuel rich circuit. Then blow the hose with air Dry spark plug Wet spark plug Blowing in normal Blowing clogged 1. No fuel in fuel tank 2. Check if the pipes, fuel tank to carburetor and intake vacuum, are clogged. 3. Float valve clogged 4. Lines in fuel tank evaporation system clogged 5. Malfunction of fuel pump 6. Loosen or damaged fuel pump vacuum hose 7. Fuel filter clogged 1. Malfunction of spark plug 2. Spark plug foul 3. Malfunction of CDI set 4. Malfunction of AC generator 5. Ignition coil is in open or short circuit 6. Ignition coil leads open or short circuit 7. Malfunction of main switch 1. Piston ring seized 2. Malfunction of cylinder valves 3. Worn cylinder and piston ring 4. Cylinder gasket leak 5. Sand hole in compression parts 1. Malfunction of throttle valve operation 2. Air sucked into intake manifold 3. Incorrect ignition timing 1. Fuel level in carburetor too high 2. Malfunction of throttle valve operation 3. Throttle valve opening too wid

Integral ABS and ASC – new Riding Dynamic Control Systems for BMW Motorcycles

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Filed Under (BMW) by admin on 16-11-2010

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Entering its next generation, BMW Motorrad Integral ABS is taking a quantum leap in the process of evolution, advancing from a stand-alone solution acting only on the brakes into a fully networked all-round system. Offering the new generation of Integral ABS, BMW Motorrad provides the foundation for additional dynamic riding control systems with a reduction in technical requirements and features. And following the customer’s wishes, this new generation also opens up the option in future for further-reaching rider assistance functions. The first step in this direction is BMW Motorrad ASC Automatic Stability Control available as of 2007. This system serving to control drive spin on a production motorcycles is being introduced as an optional extra on the touring models in the BMW K and Boxer Series. Once again, therefore, BMW is acting as the pioneer in the introduction of advanced safety technologies on the motorcycle. This further enhances the leadership which BMW Motorrad has shown in the area of active safety for more than 15 years. Choosing the right development partner for both systems, BMW Motorrad obviously had to focus on that partner’s specific competence in control technology and the networking of functions within the vehicle. In recent years, major car suppliers have become aware of the technical challenges presented by the motorcycle with its specific riding dynamics and the growing potential for motorcycle control systems in the market. The decisive point in preselection of the development partner was the willingness and ability to develop specialised solutions suitable for use on BMW motorcycles. So taking this into account, joint development of the new generation of ABS brake technology started together with Continental-Teves in early 2003. Integral ABS. BMW Motorrad’s new Integral ABS technology has been developed separately from the previous system and the entire layout of the system has been newly conceived from the ground up. Capitalising on progress in technology in both hydraulics and electronics, the development engineers have succeeded in simplifying the architecture of the system while at the same time enhancing its functions to an even higher standard. The result is supreme stopping power and very short stopping distances even without electrical power assistance on the brakes.

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Honda VT1100 Shadow Guide Plug Patch Repair Manual

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 24-04-2011

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Find the guide plug.bn The guide plug is shown in the shop manual with the engine removed from the frame and the left crankcase cover removed. (You’ll find this illustration in the “ELECTRIC STARTER/STARTER CLUTCH” chapter in the “STARTER DRIVEN GEAR/STARTER CLUTCH REMOVAL” section.) It’s a little bit harder to find it on the bike. Start by following the yardstick to see where the guide plug is on my bike. To find it on your bike, lie on the ground (or, preferably a mechanics creeper) next to the bike (without the yardstick) and peek under the shift lever and over the frame There it is, just barely visible from the side of the bike. Here’s what a new one looks like: 2. Clean the guide plug and crankcase. From the front of the bike, clean the guide plug and crankcase with brake cleaner in a VERY focused spray. Let the cleaner evaporate before moving to the next step. Page 4 Rev: Draft 5/20/2007 Page 4 of 5 3. Reposition the guide plug. a. From the side of the bike, use the yardstick (or a long screwdriver if you prefer) to gently push the guide plug back into the crankcase. (Note the JB Weld from the previous patch operation.) b. From the front of the bike, gently push upward on the bottom of the upper tab (as shown below) or the bottom of the forward tab to rotate the guide plug into the proper position while maintaining pressure with the yardstick

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BMW F650GS / F800GS Slip-On Exhaust System with M-2 Exhaust Canister Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 09-11-2010

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1. Make sure the bike is completely cool before starting the installation. Make sure the bike is secure on a centerstand or ideally a service lift. 2. Remove muffler joint springs, set aside to re-use later. 3. Remove muffler mounting bolt and decorative washer, set aside to re-use washer later. 4. Attach TBR slip tube to TBR muffler using the 2 piece X-Rings and 6x14mm socket head cap screws with lock washer that are provided. Leave loose enough to make some adjustments on the motorcycle. 5. Attach muffler assembly to motorcycle using the OEM springs and supllied muffler clamp. Use the supplied 8x20mm socket head cap screw and OEM washer to secure muffler clamp. *a small amount of high temp silicone on slip joint may be used. 6. Align muffler and tighten the 4 X-Ring bolts. 7. Double check your work to ensure everything is tight and properly installed. 8. Before you run the bike, clean off all fingerprints and dirt, as any oily residue will etch the metal and become somewhat permanent when the system gets hot. Run the bike and enjoy. It is normal for some white smoke to appear the first time you start the bike. This is packing/ manufacturing oil from inside the pipe burning off. Check for gaps or leaks. If you find a leak, a little high temperature silicon sealant should fix it. After 50 to 100 miles, recheck all fasteners for tightness. 2008-09 BMW F650GS / F800GS V.A.L.E.™ Slip-On Exhaust System with M-2 Exhaust Canister Part # 005-2630406V / 005-2630407V / 005-2630408V Qty. Description Part Number 1 M-2 Muffler Canister Varies 1 Slip-On Tube Assembly 005-26304S 1 Muffler Clamp Varies 1 HARDWARE KIT 005-263-3 2 X-Ring (half) 005-7-2-3 4 6x14mm Socket Head Cap Screw 005-SH614 4 6mm Split Washer 005-WL6 1 8×20 Sockey Head Cap Screw

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HARLEY DAVIDSON GLOSS BLACK HEAD BOLT COVERS INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 25-02-2011

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This kit fits 1992 and later Evolution 1340 and XL models and 1999 and later Twin Cam-equipped models. INSTALLATION Perform this installation when the engine is cool. Working on or near the exhaust system when the engine is hot could result in severe burns. (00311a) 1. Remove spark plugs. 2. See Figure 1. Install head bolt covers (1), on head bolts (3), secure using setscrew (2) and Allen wrench included with kit. To prevent setscrews from falling into the spark plug holes, start threading the setscrews into the covers before placing them over the head bolts. Position cover on head bolt so that when spark plug is reinstalled setscrew is hidden from view but accessible with Allen wrench. Do not tighten setscrews on high points of bolts. 3. Reinstall spark plugs. Tighten spark plugs to 11-18 ftlbs (15-24 Nm) . If a torque wrench is not available, finger- tighten spark plug and then, using a spark plug wrench, tighten plug an additional 1/4 turn. 4. Readjust setscrew tightness after motor has operated at full operating temperature and then cooled. 2 1 3 is 001586 1. Head bolt cover 2. Setscrew 3. Head bolt Figure 1. Head Bolt Cover Installation

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Suspension Basics for BMW Motorcycles

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Filed Under (BMW) by admin on 30-11-2010

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tires: Tires are the first part of any suspension system. The design of the tire and even the pressure you run can have a profound affect on the way your motorcycle handles. Stiff, low profile tires will give a sharper feel to the bike, as will higher tire pressures. Those of us who ride our GS’s off the road will decrease the tire pressure to about 50% of the street spec when we are in the dirt. The tire then becomes a very active part of the suspension, but will wallow like an old pig if not re-inflated when pressed back into pavement duty. It still surprises me when we have a customer complain that his BMW needs new shocks when they come in with nearly flat tires. It is possible that the best dollars-per- unit improvement you can make to your BMW may be in keeping the tires inflated. Chassis: There is not much that we can do about the chassis design, unless we are Troy the Welder, but it is a fact that different frames and swing arms flex differently and therefore are part of the suspension. On the Airheads, we often braced various parts of the frame and swing arms, resulting in improved handling that even mere mortals could appreciate. On the latest BMW’s it would take the likes of a Valentino Rossi to even notice if the parts were stiffened. Stiffer is not always better. One of the Japanese racing bike manufactures controls the stiffness of the frame in various areas to allow some flex for better handling. So, Mr. Rossi might not even like it if Troy stiffened his new BMW. Springs: Springs control the ride height of the motorcycle and the ability to allow for different loads. On most BMW’s there is a way to adjust the spring preload to some extent so that the ride can be optimized for a light rider or two-up operation with luggage. Dampers: Dampers control the speed and frequency at which the suspension operates by changing the kinetic (moving) energy to thermal (heat) energy. Without the damper, the suspension would oscillate as each movement occurred, resulting in decreased vehicle control. Dampers on BMW’s fall into two main groups. On airheads, older K bikes, F and G models, and the R1200 HP-2, the front dampers are integrated into the forks. On the rear of the above mentioned -3 – models, and on both ends of all the rest of the bikes, there is a more common shock absorber, around which the spring is located. The HP-2 uses an air spring and air dampened rear shock. Seat: OK, folks, this is here for my old buddy Jeff. We know that a seat isn’t part of suspension, but a bad one sure can make you miserable. We have sent dozens of seats to our friend Mike Harris for inexpensive mods that might improve your riding enjoyment more than any suspension changes you could make! Let us know if we can help you with this most important item

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HONDA CB650/ 750F/ 900F/ 1100F/ GL1100 Spark Unit Set Installation Manual

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 05-04-2011

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INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS: 1. All connections must be of the highest quality, use crimped or soldered connections; twisted wires will not give a satisfactory operation. 2. Remove the seat and/or petrol tank to gain access to the original spark units (if fitted); these are normally fitted under the seat between the top frame tubing. Each of these units consists of a small alloy metal box with sleeved wires terminated by a small connector (coupler). They also have a mounting tab with a single fixing hole. 3. On four cylinder machines there will be two units, normally mounted back to back; one for cylinders 1&4 and one for cylinders 2&3. 4. For safety, disconnect the battery. 5. Unplug the couplers from each of the units. Undo the fixings and remove the units. 6. Fit the new spark units in the place of the old ones or find a suitable alternative, close to the connectors. Secure the units to the frame or mounting platform using the supplied tie-straps and adhesive mounting base (if required). If required, a thin sheet of rubber or double-sided tape can be used to keep the units in position. Do not completely wrap the units in foam rubber. 7. Push the wiring harness plugs into the new spark unit socket connectors; they will only fit one way. Reconnect the battery. 8. If you are rewiring the machine or do not have the standard wiring harness, the spark unit wire colours & functions are as follows: GREEN Ö GROUND (0 VOLTS) BLACK/WHITE Ö IGNITION SUPPLY (+12 VOLTS) VIA ENGINE STOP SWITCH YELLOW Ö IGNITION COIL OUTPUT (TO COIL —) WHITE Ö PULSE GENERATOR (WHITE RING) BLUE Ö PULSE GENERATOR (UNMARKED) There are two pulse generators, one for cylinders 1&4 and one for cylinders 2&3. The left hand one is normally for cylinders 1&4 (see fig.1). There are two wires of the same colour coming from each pulse generator, one of these wires is normally marked with a white band. The pulse generator wire with the white band connects to the white wire from the corresponding spark unit, the other pulse generator wire connects to the blue wire on the corresponding spark unit. If the white band is missing, this is normally the upper wire coming from the pulse generator. 9. Refit the seat and tank (if removed earlier). 10. Fitting is now complete, although for best results you may wish to verify the ignition timing, see the following guide

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