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V-Star 1100 And Dragstar 1100 Modification V-Star Driving/ Passing Lights Factory Chrome Light Bar Cover Installation

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 08-11-2010

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Modify your factory light bar cover to fit on Yamaha brand driving/passing lights. Use a rotary tool to widen the fastening area of the lower backside clips on the cover. The total width between the clips should be 4 æ inches. Trim off º inch on both inside ends of the lower backside attachment clips. Trim the clips equally. The following picture shows a modified cover. Narrow the clips on both ends to fit over the welds on the bar. The cover will not attach to the bar if the width between the clips is too narrow. If the width is too wide the cover may slide sideways on the bar. Narrow both clips equally to center the cover over the welds on the lower edge of the bar. The top of the cover is modified to allow the cover to fit over the bolts on the light bar. The top edge of the cover is filed æ inch deep and 5/8 inch wide to fit over the bolts. The back top edge is filed or ground 1/8 inch to fit over the light bar fastening bracket. Use care when filing chrome covered plastic. The following picture will help to complete this step in the modification. Modify your factory light bar cover to fit on Yamaha brand driving/passing lights. The ends of the cover are modified to allow the cover to fit over the upward curved light bar. The upper openings on the ends of the cover that fit over the bar must be filed to enlarge the area. Grinding the cover ends will allow the cover to fit and clip onto the bar. The end openings are filed or ground at an angle to match the slope of the bar. This picture shows the outer end of the cover. The ends of this cover have been modified by enlarging the area on the upper edges to fit over the upward curving light bar. The ends must be enlarged 1/8 inch on the top edge. The cover edge can be slanted upward to match the curved bar. Modify the cover ends until it fits without the outer chrome cover touching the bar. Modify your factory light bar cover to fit on Yamaha brand driving/passing lights. Sometimes the modified light bar cover may touch the bottom of the headlight. Modify the cover, or adjust the bar or headlight if you notice the headlight touching the bar cover. This modification makes the V-Star motorcycle with Yamaha driving lights look better. The light bar bolts are covered and the chrome cover improves the appearance of the front of your bike. Other V-Star riders will notice how nice the front of your bike looks with the chrome light bar cover installed

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Honda Shadow A.C.E. v. Yamaha V-Star 1100 Middleweight Import Cruiser Shootout

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 25-11-2010

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You want a big cruiser but you don’t need a large 1500 cc behemoth that weighs close to half-a-ton fully loaded. You want something you can cruise down the boulevard on but you want to be able to handle a corner or two. You want classic styling but you insist on reliability as well. If these are your guidelines, then Honda and Yamaha might have what you’re looking for in the guise of the Honda Shadow American Classic Edition and Yamaha V-Star 1100. Shadow ACE 1100 The ACE and V-Star have a few things in common: Both sport requisite V-twin powerplants (75° for the V-Star and 45° for the ACE) and both possess typical Japanese refinement. Aside from these similarities, the two rides are very different machines. While both machines are shaft driven, the ACE uses the shaft housing as the swingarm. Although this arrangement is effective, it’s a bit lacking style-wise. However, the whitewall tires and the classic fenders and tank help to create a traditional design that turns heads when you’re out and about. The V-Star uses a different approach, utilizing a pivoting sub-frame design with a hidden mono-shock that keeps the lines fluid and consistent with the rest of the bike. Although this beast isn’t equipped with whitewall tires, it still cuts a graceful, glittering profile. The only flaw we noticed was the small headlight that

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Yamaha XVS650 and 1100 Drag Star/V-Star Service and Repair Manual

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 27-04-2011

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Fortunately, Haynes cruises to the rescue with the introduction of its new Service and Repair Manual for all Yamaha XVS650 and 1100 models – XVS650 (‘97-’05), XVS650A Classic (‘98-’05), XVS1100 (‘99–’05) and XVS1100A Classic (‘00–’05). Hailed as “… essential reading for any biker tackling his own servicing…” by Motor Cycle News, Haynes manuals have an enviable reputation. The new manual provides fully illustrated, step-by-step instructions for DIY servicing, overhaul and repairs of the engine and transmission, fuel and ignition systems, suspension and steering, the braking system and the electrical system. Each task is given a spanner rating for complexity and experience required. Checking and adjusting the valve clearances is rated as three spanners out of five. There are full-colour sections on the history of the models, on daily preride hecks and those all-important wiring diagrams, plus tools required and Haynes Hints. For instance, when changing the brake fluid how to tell when all the old fluid has been displaced The section guiding readers

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YAMAHA V-Star 1100 Carburetor Bowl Screw Repair and Removal After Stripping and Pilot Cap Removal

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 19-01-2012

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When I first started working on bike many years ago, I learned the danger of stripping the heads of Philips screws when removing or installing them on motorcycles. I remember the two worst screws were the casing side-cover aluminum screws and carburetor bowl screws. I think I tried every method of screw removal after they were stripped. Vice grips, better tipped screwdriver, hammer, drill, and other tools were used. One way I learned to remove stripped screws is to re-make the Philips head into a flathead screw. Cutting a slot in the top of the screw and then use a flat-head screwdriver to remove the screw. On some parts this technique can work, other parts and screws it may not. The Philips screws on the bottom of the V-Star carburetor bowls are VERY prone to stripping. In fact, I will not start a carburetor cleaning without new hex head screws to replace the original Philips bowl screws. Replace the bowl screws for yourself if you keep the bike, or for the next rider that will appreciate the hex-head screws when they clean the carburetors. Not many other parts on a V-Star have screws that are prone to stripping. This documentation is to help riders with motorcycle maintenance. Some riders will find themselves with the problem of removing stripped screws. A carburetor cleaning can quickly double in time when you realize the hardest part of the job is removing bowl screws after they strip. And then realizing you do not have the replacement hex-head screws available and must now go to the hardware store.

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ODYSSEY DRYCELL MOTORCYCLE BATTERY COMPATIBILITY

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Filed Under (Triumph) by admin on 30-10-2010

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Yamaha V-Star 1100 Jetting the Carburetors INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 11-03-2012

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Remove air filter housing Remove the seat or seats Disconnect Fuel Lines (also the vapor line from tank to charcoal canister on California models) Disconnect instrument connectors from the fuel tank Remove fuel tank Remove air box Disconnect TPS and heater connectors Remove chrome carb cover Disconnect Fuel Lines Remove rubber carb elbows Disconnect throttle cables from carbs Remove the carbs Perform the jetting 1. Remove the Chrome air filter housing. To remove the chrome dog-dish (air filter housing) from the right side of the bike, you will need to remove the two mounting bolts and loosen the clamp that holds the air duct to the back of the housing. You will need a 5 mm Allen wrench and a #2 Philips screwdriver. 2. Remove the seats. This can be accomplished by using a 5 mm Allen wrench and removing the Allen head bolt from just behind the rear seat and the bolt just behind the front seat. Pulling up and back will free the seats. One smooth motion will do it. 3. Gain access to the dashboard plug and unplug it (It is white) Note: Your trip odometer will lose its count, please record the number if you wish to save your current mileage for this tank of gas. Figure A shows the three plastic rivets that need to be removed to gain access to the dashboard plug. Using your Philips head screwdriver, press the small circle in the middle of the rivets down… a click is felt. Remove the rivets by hand. You have freed the cover and you may lift it up to expose the electrical connector that needs to be unplugged. Figure B shows the plug

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YAMAHA V-STAR 1100 HYPERCHARGER AIRCLEANER INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 09-11-2010

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STEP 1 Remove the driver and passenger seats from the bike. Remove the negative battery cable from the battery and tuck it out of the way to reduce the possibility of sparks. STEP 2 Remove the two rear tank mounting bolts. Remove the plastic tank mounting snap stud. (Push in on the center of it to release). Slide the tank back to expose the top of the engine. Make sure the tank is solidly in place so it does not fall! You may remove the tank completely from the bike if you’re not certain the tank will stay in place while you are performing this installation. STEP 3 Remove the stock air cleaner cover, element, and backing plate. Twarrants that any Küryakyn product sold hereunder, if properly installed, maintained and operated under normal conditions, shall be free from any defects in materials and workmanship for a period of one (1) year from the date the Küryakyn products are sold to the customer. CONSEQUENTIAL DAMAGES: Küryakyn shall not be liable for any consequential or incidental damages. ABOUTOURCA TA LOG You’ll find all our innovations for H-D, GL and Metric Cruisers in our annual catalogs. Order online today-select the “CATALOGS” icon. Each Küryakyn™ product comes with a Proof-of-Purchase good for a complimentary catalog. Details in packaging. Be sure to ask your local dealer about other Küryakynproducts, the motorcycle parts and accessories designed for riders by riders. ©2003 Küryakyn USA™All Rights reserved. STEP 4 See PIC. 1and PIC.2. Remove the grommet from the bracket. STEP 5 Placing your long handled Phillips screwdriver as shown in PIC.3, loosen the clamp on the air duct and remove the duct. Remove the clamp from the duct— it will be reused. Now is a good time to proceed with rejetting of the carburetors. Consult your factory service manual for this procedure. We have supplied jets to cover most common applications. Jetting Recommendations: See FIG. 1for jet locations. With stock exhaust or Cobra Slip-On Mufflers • 1.2 Pilot Air Bleeds in both carbs • One .020 shim added to raise each needle • 122.5 Main Jet in the front cylinder’s carb • 120 Main Jet in the rear cylinder’s carb • Pilot Mixture Screw (PMS) 2 turns out from lightly bottomed With Vance & Hines, Samson, or open “Drag” pipes • 1.2 Pilot Air Bleeds in both carbs • One .020 shim added to raise each needle • 125 Main Jet in the front cylinder’s carb • 122.5 Main Jet in the rear cylinder’s carb • Pilot Mixture Screw (PMS) 2 turns out from lightly bottomed NOTES 1. The factory installed plug covering the PMS will have to be removed in order to access the screw. 2. Because the float bowl screws are easily damage during removal, we have included 8 replacement float bowl screws with socket heads, just in case they are needed. BE SURE TO VENT THE FLOAT BOWLS TO THE BACK OF THE HYPERCHARGER — THIS IS NECESSARY FOR BEST DRIVABILITY AND MAXIMUM PERFORMANCE!!!! (See Step 12.) STEP 6 See PIC.4. Insert both flanges of the rubber air duct through the opening in the mounting bracket. Place the Stock duct clamp on the new intake duct — the clamp screw should face forward.

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Yamaha V-Star 1100 Needle/ Jet Kit REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION MANUALS

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 27-12-2011

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To install this needle and jet kit: • Remove carburetors from the engine per Yamaha shop manual procedures. Note: Always perform internal carburetor work in a clean area. • Remove the vacuum slide from each carburetor. • Remove the OEM needle, spacer and washers, noting order of assembly. (Note; the washers are used as shims to raise the needle, each is equivalent to ½ clip position, use these to fine tune the needle) • Counting from the top to the bottom, install the new Baron needle clip on groove #4 of the replacement Baron adjustable needles. The top is the blunt end of the needle. • Reinstall the OEM spacer and washers as shown in the figure below. • Reinstall the vacuum slides along with the diaphragm spring and reattach the diaphragm covers Note: Verify that the slides maintain their full range of movement! • Drain the fuel from the float bowls and remove the bowl covers. • Remove the OEM main jets and replace them with Baron’s supplied Mikuni main jets. Install the “base setting” main jets as indicated above. NOTE: V-Star 1100 carburetion runs staggered jetting! Make sure the front cylinder’s carburetor gets the larger main jet (numerically), and the rear cylinder’s carburetor gets the smaller main jet . Important! Extra jets have been included in your kit. These will help you fine-tune the carburetors for changing conditions. These conditions include climate and weather patterns in your area as well as exhaust equipment on your motorcycle. Barons determines the jet and clip recommendations that best suit your average riding conditions based upon information supplied to us at the time of your order. Changes in weather, altitude or modifications to your exhaust system may require jets other than those supplied. • Thoroughly clean the inside of the float bowls prior to reinstalling them. 311 #1 Industrial Way – Fallbrook, CA 92028 – USA Phone: (760) 731-1200 Fax: (760) 731-1284 E-mail: tech@baronscustom.com Website: www.baronscustom.com Included in this kit: (4)Mikuni main jets #107.5, 110, 112.5, 115, (2) titanium needles, (2) clips, (8) cap-head allen screws Tools required: 3-4-5 mm allen wrenches, 10&12 mm sockets, 10mm end wrench, phillips & flat screwdrivers, pliers, drill. Revision 4.0 • Reassemble the carburetors by reversing the order of above steps. Use the new supplied cap head Allen screws in place of the OEM Phillips head screws for the float bowls. • Locate the fuel mixture screws – they will either be a screw head or a brass plug. If it is a screw head, skip to step c . If you see a brass plug with a small hole in the center, proceed as follows: a. With a 5/32″ drill bit, carefully and slowly drill through the fuel mixture plugs

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YAMAHA V-Star 1100 Motorcycle Enhancements Remote Oil Filter Installation Manual

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 10-11-2010

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Removing Your Old Filter and Beauty Cover In order to install the new Remote Oil Filter Kit, you’ll need to remove the stock Yamaha “beauty cover” and the old filter and filter cover. Remove the engine parts necessary to access the stock filter as outlined in the V-Star owner’s manual. The parts should come off in this order: 1. Muffler assembly 2. Front exhaust pipe 3. Rear brake reservoir cover bolt and brake cover (the reservoir should not be removed, it can remain in place and be moved aside as needed) 4. Right floorboard (this can be simply loosened, by loosening the two bolts underneath) With the above parts removed, you can remove the Allen bolts holding the beauty cover and filter cap from your engine. There are five Allen bolts holding the beauty cover (so named, because most of the cover just covers the chromed side of the engine There are five bolts holding the cover. Ignore the three on the “Yamaha” cap in the middle – these just hold the Yamaha cap to the beauty cover itself. One bolt is hidd – in this picture – just be the Yamaha ca en low p. The bottommost bolt on the beauty cover will likely leak some oil when you remove it – it holds on the inner oil filter cover. Once you remove the beauty cover, you can remove the oil filter cover, and the oil filter Keep these two “O” rings, you’ll need them for the remote kit Old oil filter. Toss it away; you’ll never need one again! Throw away the old filter, and carefully remove the orange and black “O” rings from the filter cover (see picture above). These two “O” rings will go on the new engine cap in the same order as on the old filter cover. “O” ring for bottom bolt. When the beauty cover and filter cover are removed, be sure not to lose the tiny “O” ring that the bottom bolt goes through. Preparing the Remote Oil Filter Kit Remove the orange and black “O” rings from the stock filter cover plate, and place them on the Remote Oil Filter Kit engine cap – black on the inside, orange on the outside – just like on the stock filter cover.

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V-Star 1100 Floorboard/ Foot peg Extension Kit Installation Manual

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 08-11-2010

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1. Take notice of the position of the shift peg positions relative to the floorboard or foot-peg. You will be adjusting it back to these locations upon installation of the extended linkage. 2. Loosen the shifter rod jam nuts and remove the OEM shift linkage. 3. Loosen the floorboard/foot-peg assembly by removing the mounting bolts (14mm wrench) 4. Install the Extension Bracket using the OEM bolts and torque to 46 ft. lbs. Figure 1 shows how to orient the bracket relative to the front of the motorcycle. 5. Mount the floorboard/foot-peg assembly to the Extension Bracket using the SS hardware provided and torque to 46 ft. lbs. It is always a good idea to apply thread-locking compound such as lock- tite to ensure that the hardware does not vibrate loose while riding. 6. Remove the jam nuts from the OEM shift linkage and thread them gently on to the new shift linkage. 7. Install the new shift linkage by aligning the control swivel and the shifter swivel and turning the linkage. Be careful not to cross thread the linkage. The linkage will thread into both swivels simultaneously. Adjust to the desired position and tighten the jam nuts that you removed from the OEM linkage. Do not over-tighten or damage will occur to the threads. Right Side Installation: 1. Take notice of the Brake pedal position relative to the floorboard/foot-peg before removal, as it will need to be readjusted upon installation of the kit. 2. Remove the cotter pin from the brake linkage and remove the clevis pin. The brake linkage will now be separate from the brake pedal assembly. Do not discard anything. 3. Loosen the floorboard/foot-peg assembly by removing the mounting bolts (14mm wrench) 4. Install the Extension Bracket using the OEM bolts and torque to 46 ft. lbs. Figure 1 shows how to orient the bracket relative to the front of the motorcycle. 5. Mount the floorboard/foot-peg assembly to the Extension Bracket using the SS hardware provided and torque to 46 ft. lbs. It is always a good idea to apply thread-locking compound such as lock- tite to ensure that the hardware does not vibrate loose while riding. 6. Loosen the jam nut from the brake linkage and remove the linkage bracket. 7. Assemble the threaded brake linkage extension to the coupling nut and tighten using one of the provided jam nuts. Don’t forget the thread locking compound if your using it. 8. Thread the coupling onto the brake cylinder linkage and install the other end of the assembly into the brake pedal end. Tighten the jam nuts. You should be able to adjust the linkage for proper brake pedal location before tightening the jam nuts. 9. Readjust the brake light switch and your ready to roll

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