replace plugs on kawasaki prairie 700

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Lilac LS-18 Motorcycle Maintenance Standards

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Filed Under (Lilac) by admin on 25-11-2010

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CYLINDER AND CYLINDER HEAD MAINTENANCE ITEM STANDARD REPAIR LIMIT METHOD REMARKS Cylinder Bore 54 -0.01 54.1 Boring After boring honing should be performed Ovality 0.01 0.05 Boring After boring honing should be performed Taper 0.01 0.05 Boring After boring honing should be performed Oversize 0.25 steps 55 max. Do R and L cylinders at same time / 4 steps Valve Seat Width 0.8 – 1.0 1.3 Adjust Use a cutter Angle 45∞ Combustion Chamber Volume 18.2cc -0.5cc Remove carbon if heavy accumulation Compression Ratio 7.8:1 Head Gasket Thickness 1.0 Cylinder Head Nut Torque 3.0 kg/m (22 ft.-lb.) Out standard Adjust 8mm nut Intake and Exhaust Ports Port Wall SurfaceMust be smooth Remove carbon Intake and Exh. Valve GuidesOD 12 +0.09 +0.1 ID 7 +0.01 -0.0 7.06 Exchange Intake Valve Stem Diameter 7 -0.02 -0.03 6.9 Exchange Head Thickness 1 0.7 Exchange Exhaust Valve Stem Diameter 7 -0.02 -0.03 6.9 Exchange Head Thickness 1 0.7 Exchange Intake and Exhaust Valve Seat Face Width Range 0.8~1.0 1.3 Use valve seat cutter Intake Valve Guide Clearance 0.02~0.04 0.08 Replace valve or guide Exhaust Valve Guide Clearance 0.06~0.08 0.12 Replace valve or guide Valve Spring (Large) Installed Load 10.2 kg 8.7 kg Replace Fitted length 31.5 Free Length 36.5 34.7 Replace Tilt 1.5/100 3/100 Replace Valve Spring (Small) Installed Load 5.48 kg 4.65 kg Replace Fitted length 29.5 Page 4 of 10 Free Length 33.5 31.8 Replace Tilt 1.5/100 3/100 Replace Rocker Arm ID 12 +0.00 +0.02112.07 Replace Rocker Shaft OD 12 -0.06 -0.024 11.92 Replace Arm and Shaft Clearance 0.045~0.006 0.10 Replace arm or shaft Tappet Clearance 0.05 Out standard Adjust Measure cold at TDC Rocker Arm Ball Surface 1.8îR -0.006 -0.024 Replace if severe wear Pushrod Bend 0.1 0.5 Straighten Over 100mm (2) CRANKSHAFT, PISTON AND CONROD MAINTENANCE ITEM STANDARD REPAIR LIMIT METHOD REMARKS Piston OD @ Top 53.65 -0.02 Max Diameter 53.95 -0.015 53.85 Replace Ovality 0.1 Piston and Cylinder Clearance 0.04~0.05 0.15 Replace Piston Ring Groove Clearance 0.03~0.07 0.10 Replace Piston Oversize Step 0.25 4 steps Top Ring and 2nd Ring Thickness 2 -0.01 -0.03 1.92 Replace Width 2.5 -0.01 0.55kg Tension 0.85 – 1.15kg 1 Replace End Gap 0.15 – 0.35 Replace Oil Ring Thickness 3.2 -0.01 -0.03 3.12 Replace Width 2.5 -0.1 Tension 1.0~1.3kg 0.65kg Replace End Gap 0.15~0.35 1 Replace Ring Gap Position 120∞ 3 equal spacesOut standard Adjust Avoid Piston Pin Axis Ring Oversizes 0.25 steps 4 steps Piston Pin OD 15 -0.0 +0.006 14.95 Replace Pin Hole in Piston ID 15 +0.012 -0.015.05 Replace Pin and Piston Clearance -0.006 ~ +0.012 0.06 Replace Hand push fit piston at 100∞C Conrod Small End Bush ID 15+0.027+0.016 15.07 Replace bush Conrod and Piston Pin Clearance 0.01~0.027 0.07 Replace Crankpin OD 24.94 +0.0+0.0124.90 Replace Crankpin Roller OD 5 (+0.001+0.003) Refer to conrod ID Replace 3Sizes; 52 per assembly for selective fit 5 (+0.0 -0.002) 5 (-0.003 -0.005) Conrod ID 34.95+0.03+0.02435.02 Axial Play 0.2~0.4 0.5 Adjust Radial Play 0.026~0.036 0.06 Replace

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Kawasaki Prairie 360,650,700 ATV PLOW Plow Mounting Kit INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 25-10-2010

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Mount Installation Note: There are different hole locations on the plow mount depending on the bike model. For Prairie 360 use the middle hole locations (B), for Prairie 650 and Twin Peaks 700 use hole locations (A) on mounting plate, as shown in Figure 1. Figure 1 Hole Locations WARN INDUSTRIES PAGE 3 67954 Rev A3 To install the plow mount to the underside of the vehicle install the front two U-bolts PN 60869, and loosely tighten the 5/16″ nuts. Pull the plow mount back in the furthest position and then fully tighten, as shown in Figure 2. For the Kawasaki Prairie 360 use the second set of U-bolts PN 61262 and securely tighten around the frame in hole location (B) . For Kawasaki Prairie 650 and Suzuki Twin Peaks 700 drill a 3/8″ hole through the aluminum skid plate, using the plow mount as a template, as shown in Figure 3. Repeat the same process on the other side. After both holes are drilled attach the mounting plate with the second set of U-bolts PN 61262 and securely tighten around the frame in hole location (A) . Tighten all fasteners securely. Torque 5/16″ Bolts: 20ft. lb.

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Kawasaki KVF650/ 700, KSV 700 Camshaft Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 29-04-2012

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Liberally apply assembly lube to every surface of the camshaft. Install the camshaft into the cylinder head (the lobes should be pointed down) and align the decompressor shaft dowels with the weight arms. Install one of the camshaft sprocket holder bolts and tighten to less than finger tight, you should be able to move the camshaft very slightly back and forth, roll the crank over until the other bolt hole is exposed and insert the sprocket bolt and tighten to less than finger tight. Install the cam chain tensioner assembly, do not install the spring, spring dowel, washer, and bolt. Using the spring from the cam chain tensioner very slowly push the tensioner shaft in until the cam chain slack has just been taken out, this is witnessed by the very slight lifting of the opposite end of the cam out of the cylinder head cam journal, do not over tighten the cam chain at this point, if you do, remove the tensioner assembly and retract the plunger again and start over. (If it stays too tight it will stretch the cam chain prematurely and cause cam sprocket damage when the engine is assembled) Roll the camshaft toward the back of the machine (clockwise) loading the sprocket bolts against the back of the sprocket bolt holes, while holding the camshaft in that direction, tighten the sprocket mounting bolt to 14 ft/lb of torque. Rotate the engine in the opposite direction that you rotated it earlier and align the TDC mark, tighten the other sprocket-mounting bolt to 14 ft/lb of torque. Verify the cam timing and crankshaft TDC marks are in alignment

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Kawasaki Ninja 650R (ER-6F) & ER-6N Resource Upgrading the Suspension on the Kawasaki ER6-F/ N

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 30-11-2010

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Top fork is as removed. Kawasaki Ninja 650R (ER-6F) & ER-6N Resource Before removing the fork from the clamps on the yokes I loosened the fork top. Before removing the fork top the fork-slider was placed in a vice and the bottom bolt loosened….. … before finally being removed with the fork upside down. Because the springs were still in situ this gave sufficient tension on the damper-rod to prevent it from turning and allow the bolt to be removed. When I turned the fork the right-way up to remove the fork-top I did it over a container to catch the oil. Kawasaki Ninja 650R (ER-6F) & ER-6N Resource All the OE components that will no longer be required. Left to right. Fork-top, spacer tube, washer, spring, damper-rod. Bottom bolts get re-used. Old and new, laid-out for comparison. The damper unit, minus spring and fork-top, drops inside the stanchion and slider. Kawasaki Ninja 650R (ER-6F) & ER-6N Resource Then the bolt goes back in, as tight as possible, to secure it. Top fork is done, second one awaits. Note the spring seat on the right, just below the spring. This drops over the damping rod after the oil has been added. The small locking-nut screws over the threaded part of the damping-rod next, all the way to the bottom. Spring drops in and then the fork-top screws on to the damping-rod as well, all the way down to the lock-nut which is used to secure it. At this point the stanchion is extended to the fork-top which is screwed in. Job done.

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BMW F 650 GS Repair Manual And Maintenance schedule

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Filed Under (BMW) by admin on 19-11-2010

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Replace oil in telescopic forks Check the coolant and restore to correct level if necessary *) Replace the coolant (every 2 years) every 2years Check valve clearances, adjust if necessary Replace the spark plug Drain the outlet hose from the air filter box Replace intake air filter If motorcycle is operated in very dirty or dusty conditions, clean or replace the intake air filter every 10,000 km (6,000 miles); check every 3,000 km (1,800 miles) Replace fuel filter (every 20,000 km/12,000 miles) 20,000 km Check clutch play, adjust if necessary Check wheel spoke tension and tighten if necessary more frequently if motorcycle is ridden in severe off-road conditions Examine brake pads and discs for wear, replace if necessary *) more frequently if motorcycle is ridden in severe off-road conditions Check brake fluid level at front and rear and top up if necessary *) Check for operation of brake system and freedom from leaks; repair/replace if necessary *) Replace the brake fluid at least once a year Replace the primary front/rear brake master cylinder cup (every 40,000 km/24,000 miles on a motorcycle with ABS ) 40,000 km Check wheel bearings and replace if necessary *) Check or, if necessary, replace chain, sprocket, chain guide rollers and pinion *) more frequently if motorcycle is ridden in severe off-road conditions Check chain tension and adjust if necessary *) Check battery acid level, add distilled water if necessary more frequently if motorcycle is ridden in severe off-road conditions Clean and grease the battery terminals, if necessary Check steering head bearings and adjust *) or replace if necessary *) Grease the side and main stands Grease the brake pedal Check bolts and nuts on engine mountings, frame connections, exhaust system mountings, swinging fork pivot, suspension levers, brake pedal, main and side stands and quick-release axles for tightness Final inspection with road safety and functional check

Kawasaki Exhausts – ZX-6 ZX-10 Zx-14 Exhaust – Slip-ons INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 25-10-2010

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Our favorite exhaust options for Kawasaki ZX Ninjas – ZX-10,ZX-6r, and the new horsepower king, Zx-14.. Grab your horsepower today. We love Rob Muzzy and Muzzy Exhausts.Going back to Doug Chandler and Scott Russell, Muzzy has been synonomous with Kawasaki and performance – and for years, if you rode Kawasaki,and you were on the podium, Muzzy was on your exhaust. We also feature Arrow and Yoshimura exhausts for your ZX-6R, ZX-10 and ZX-14. We love the sound of a Yosh exhaust on any Kawasaki Ninja. Yoshimura Oval (RS-3) Race Slip-On for Kawasaki ZX14R 2006 The easiest and least expensive way to experience Yoshimura performance is with our Slip-On/Bolt-On lines. Bolt-On style bolts to the O. E. M. mid-pipe Slip-On style with its stainless steel easily attaches to the mid-pipe RS-1 is available where noted Usually, no jetting or re-programming is required and installation is a snap Hindle Stainless Exhaust High Head Pipes – Kawasaki ZX6R-RR 03-04 The worlds lightest stainless steel exhaust system. Increase horsepower and torque throughout the entire rpm range. Lightweight, strong stainless steel header design looks great and weighs less than stock headers. Available in low- and high-mo North Denver News http://northdenvernews.com Powered by Joomla! Generated: 19 October, 2010, 12:28 Hindle Stainless Exhaust Low Head Pipes – Kawasaki ZX9R 00-03 The worlds lightest stainless steel exhaust system. Increase horsepower and torque throughout the entire rpm range. Lightweight, strong stainless steel header design looks great and weighs less than stock headers. Available in low- and high-mo

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Kawasaki 650/360 Prairie Lift Kit Installation and removal Instructions

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 25-10-2010

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1) Place jack under center of ATV front end and lift until front wheels clear the ground. Be careful to support ATV properly so that it is securely supported but so that A-arms and shocks can droop to full extension. 2) Remove front wheels. 3) Remove or loosen front plastic. 4) Remove C-clip and nut at the top of the strut. 5) Screw bracket “A” on top of strut to the same torque specifications as the nut. 6) Place the top adapter “A” through the top of the strut mount, and screw the original nut on the top of bracket “A” securing it to the strut mount. Tighten this nut to the required manufacturer specifications and replace the factory C-clip. 7) Repeat the procedure for the other side. 8) Install the wheels, torque wheel lug nuts to manufacturer’s specifications, lower and remove jack. Check for clearance problems or misalignment. Rear Lift 1) Place jack under ATV at the rear of the bottom skid plate and lift until the weight is off of the suspension. Be careful to secure the ATV properly so as not to fall off the jack. 2) Remove the bottom of the shock from the shock mount on the axle. 3) After removing the shock, jack the ATV up 1″-2″ further. 4) Place Bracket “B” between the shock and shock mount with the notched out ends facing downward. Insert stock bolt to secure bracket “B” to the shock mount and the shock. Fasten nut. 5) Insert the new 12x75mm Bolt to the top of bracket “B” and the shock eyelet and secure with a new 12mm nut. 6) Tighten all nuts and bolts to manufacturer’s torque specifications. 7) Install the wheels, torque wheel lug nuts to manufacturer’s specifications, lower and remove jack. Check for clearance problems or misalignment.

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Kawasaki KFX 700 INSTALLATION and REMOVAL INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 25-10-2010

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Jetting (see Picture on next page) 1. Remove vacuum slides from carbs. Remove stock needles & spacers, note order of assembly. 2. Install LTE needles on groove # 4 counting from the top down. 3. Remove stock main jets and replace with the supplied main jets. 4. Locate the fuel mixture screws. Using a flat blade screwdriver, turn the mixture screws clockwise until seated, then turn out 2.5 turns.
FINISHING UP Be sure all wires and hoses are zip-tied back so they will not touch the exhaust. QUIET CORES Quiet cores are supplied with this kit but not installed. To install the quiet cores remove both rear end caps ((turn downs) and install the quiet cores with the tubes facing inward. Re-install the end caps. FIRST RIDE Your first ride after installing exhaust should be no longer than 20 to 30 minutes. Let your ATV cool and re torque all of the hardware on your new exhaust. Silencer Packing

BMW R1100 – R850R Maintenance Guide

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Filed Under (BMW) by admin on 27-11-2010

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R1100 Checklist – Carl Kulow • Check alternator belt (replace 36K miles) • Adjust valves • Spark plugs (replace 12K) • Air filter (replace 12K) • Lube and adjust clutch cable • Lube front shock lower mount • Lube side and center stand • Check brake fluid (replace yearly) • Check brake pads • Check battery acid level • Fuel filter (replace 24K) • Throttle body sync • Oil and filter (replace 6K) • Check transmission fluid level (replace 12K) • Check rear wheel drive fluid level (replace 12K) • Check tires and pressure • Check all nuts and bolts • Check all air and oil hose clamps • Check all lights PARTS – TOOLS Tools Parts Misc. sockets spark plugs compressed air wrenches oil filter anti seize torque wrench air filter carb cleaner hex sockets brake pads rag hex wrenches oil – 4 qt. BMW #10 grease feeler gauges gear oil – 1 1/4 qt. flexible tubing oil filter tool alternator belt (tygon) flashlight fuel filter, o-ring, clamps measuring cylinder crush washers Mityvac -3 small = trans.drain, rear drive fill and drain digital volt meter -1 medium = oil drain heat gun -1 large = trans.fill tire change tools 5 R1100 Maintenance Steps – Carl Kulow Note: This overview section serves only as a step by step reminder for experienced workers. If you are unfamiliar with any procedure you should read the parenthetical reference article or Paul Glaves’ Routine R1100 Service Article! Note to R1100RT and R1100RS Riders: remove the side panels as described in your owners manual “Service and Technical Booklet” except RT: instead of pulling the mirror off as the manual says, you need to hold the back of the mirror (front of bike) with one hand while you hit the front outside corner of the mirror with the palm of your hand thus knocking the mirror off. Check Alternator Belt remove four bolts holding black plastic cover(4mm hex), remove cover, check belt for cracks etc., check belt tension, replace belt every 36K miles, leave cover off for valve adjustment (see Jon Diaz “Alternator Belt Adjustment”)

POLINI X1 GENERAL INFORMATION AND SPECIFICATIONS

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Filed Under (Polini) by admin on 02-12-2010

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Air cleaner – Clean and reoil daily or after each moto to prevent motor failure and reduced performance. Transmission oil – change after every race, or at end of riding day. Chain – check tension and lubricate before every ride, adjust or replace as needed. Reoil after riding in damp conditions. Clutch – disassemble and clean clutch assembly frequently, every 2-3 races at least. Inspect kickstarter gears at this time. Ignition cover – remove cover and wipe dry after each ride or after washing bike to remove condensation. Piston rings – replace as often as every 3-5 races with expert rider, less often with less aggressive riders. Piston, pin, rod bearing & circlips – replace as often as every 8-10 races with expert rider, less often with less aggressive riders. Coolant – change yearly, make sure there is at least a 50/50 mixture of antifreeze if freezing temperatures are possible. Steering bearings – Check daily for looseness or play. Adjust and regrease as needed. Swingarm – Check often for looseness. Regrease several times a year. Replace bushings if any play is evident. Sprockets – check for worn or curved teeth each time chain is adjusted. Chain roller& wear pads – check roller for free rotation when checking chain. Make sure roller is not bent or damaged. Check chain wear strips on swingarm and chain guide frequently. Replace as needed to prevent chain from damaging motorcycle. Spokes – Check after each race or after each day of riding for looseness or damage. Wheels & tires – check wheels after each race for dents, cracks or other damage. Check tires for cuts, damage or wear. Check tire pressure daily and adjust for riding conditions. Shock – Check shaft area daily for signs of oil leakage or damage. Check swingarm and shock bushings for looseness. Forks – Check forks daily for leaking oil or damage to tubes. Make sure forks are not twisted check for smooth operation. Spark plug – check sparkplug color and condition after each race or end of riding day. Adjust jetting to keep plug from fouling or overheating. Silencer – If bike seems to be getting louder, replace packing and decarbonize inner tube. Expansion pipe – check daily for large dents, damage or leakage. Remove carbon from headpipe when pipe is removed. Have large dents fixed, or any dents within 8″ of the cylinder. Replace o-rings on pipe as needed to maintain a good seal. Footpegs – check daily for proper operation, pegs should spring back into place. Make sure pegs are not bent or overly dull. Handlebars – check bars after any crash for bending. Look for cracks near bar clamps. Replace bars that have been straightened more than 2 or three times, or if bar is badly bent. Aweakened bar can snap suddenly causing injury to rider. Throttle – check throttle for proper operation each time before bike is started. Remove and clean inside of grip and bar as needed. Grips – check grips daily for wear or looseness. Replace as needed. Use grip glue & safety wire to help hold grips in position. Calipers & pads – check pad wear and caliper function daily or after each race. Replace pads and clean calipers as needed. Brake lever – check lever daily for damage or wear. Make sure lever is at proper angle for both seated and standing positions. Leave lever clamp loose enough to allow clamp to rotate during crash rather than breaking lever. Check and adjust freeplay as needed. Brake pedal – Check pedal daily for damage and proper freeplay. Adjust rear caliper as needed. Reeds – Remove and inspect reed block during every ring change. Check reeds for signs of wear, fraying and cracking. Make sure reeds sit flat and seal well. Replace at any sign of wear or damage or at least once a year, more often for expert riders. Nuts & bolts – Check all nuts and bolts regularly. Make sure to check engine mounting bolts and swingarm bolt frequently

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