replace starter 1996 hd softail custom

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Lilac LS-18 Motorcycle Maintenance Standards

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Filed Under (Lilac) by admin on 25-11-2010

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CYLINDER AND CYLINDER HEAD MAINTENANCE ITEM STANDARD REPAIR LIMIT METHOD REMARKS Cylinder Bore 54 -0.01 54.1 Boring After boring honing should be performed Ovality 0.01 0.05 Boring After boring honing should be performed Taper 0.01 0.05 Boring After boring honing should be performed Oversize 0.25 steps 55 max. Do R and L cylinders at same time / 4 steps Valve Seat Width 0.8 – 1.0 1.3 Adjust Use a cutter Angle 45∞ Combustion Chamber Volume 18.2cc -0.5cc Remove carbon if heavy accumulation Compression Ratio 7.8:1 Head Gasket Thickness 1.0 Cylinder Head Nut Torque 3.0 kg/m (22 ft.-lb.) Out standard Adjust 8mm nut Intake and Exhaust Ports Port Wall SurfaceMust be smooth Remove carbon Intake and Exh. Valve GuidesOD 12 +0.09 +0.1 ID 7 +0.01 -0.0 7.06 Exchange Intake Valve Stem Diameter 7 -0.02 -0.03 6.9 Exchange Head Thickness 1 0.7 Exchange Exhaust Valve Stem Diameter 7 -0.02 -0.03 6.9 Exchange Head Thickness 1 0.7 Exchange Intake and Exhaust Valve Seat Face Width Range 0.8~1.0 1.3 Use valve seat cutter Intake Valve Guide Clearance 0.02~0.04 0.08 Replace valve or guide Exhaust Valve Guide Clearance 0.06~0.08 0.12 Replace valve or guide Valve Spring (Large) Installed Load 10.2 kg 8.7 kg Replace Fitted length 31.5 Free Length 36.5 34.7 Replace Tilt 1.5/100 3/100 Replace Valve Spring (Small) Installed Load 5.48 kg 4.65 kg Replace Fitted length 29.5 Page 4 of 10 Free Length 33.5 31.8 Replace Tilt 1.5/100 3/100 Replace Rocker Arm ID 12 +0.00 +0.02112.07 Replace Rocker Shaft OD 12 -0.06 -0.024 11.92 Replace Arm and Shaft Clearance 0.045~0.006 0.10 Replace arm or shaft Tappet Clearance 0.05 Out standard Adjust Measure cold at TDC Rocker Arm Ball Surface 1.8îR -0.006 -0.024 Replace if severe wear Pushrod Bend 0.1 0.5 Straighten Over 100mm (2) CRANKSHAFT, PISTON AND CONROD MAINTENANCE ITEM STANDARD REPAIR LIMIT METHOD REMARKS Piston OD @ Top 53.65 -0.02 Max Diameter 53.95 -0.015 53.85 Replace Ovality 0.1 Piston and Cylinder Clearance 0.04~0.05 0.15 Replace Piston Ring Groove Clearance 0.03~0.07 0.10 Replace Piston Oversize Step 0.25 4 steps Top Ring and 2nd Ring Thickness 2 -0.01 -0.03 1.92 Replace Width 2.5 -0.01 0.55kg Tension 0.85 – 1.15kg 1 Replace End Gap 0.15 – 0.35 Replace Oil Ring Thickness 3.2 -0.01 -0.03 3.12 Replace Width 2.5 -0.1 Tension 1.0~1.3kg 0.65kg Replace End Gap 0.15~0.35 1 Replace Ring Gap Position 120∞ 3 equal spacesOut standard Adjust Avoid Piston Pin Axis Ring Oversizes 0.25 steps 4 steps Piston Pin OD 15 -0.0 +0.006 14.95 Replace Pin Hole in Piston ID 15 +0.012 -0.015.05 Replace Pin and Piston Clearance -0.006 ~ +0.012 0.06 Replace Hand push fit piston at 100∞C Conrod Small End Bush ID 15+0.027+0.016 15.07 Replace bush Conrod and Piston Pin Clearance 0.01~0.027 0.07 Replace Crankpin OD 24.94 +0.0+0.0124.90 Replace Crankpin Roller OD 5 (+0.001+0.003) Refer to conrod ID Replace 3Sizes; 52 per assembly for selective fit 5 (+0.0 -0.002) 5 (-0.003 -0.005) Conrod ID 34.95+0.03+0.02435.02 Axial Play 0.2~0.4 0.5 Adjust Radial Play 0.026~0.036 0.06 Replace

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KTM Starter Gear Maintenance Instructions

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Filed Under (KTM) by admin on 26-11-2010

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Checking the electric starter motor for wear -Check Bendix 1 for smooth operation and signs of wear. -Check the sprocket of the electric starter for wear and radial clearance. -Replace O-ring 2 of the electric starter. -Replace gasket 3 . -Check starter idler gear 4 for smooth operation and wear, check that the bearing bushings are seated firmly. Electric starter motor – checking for and adjusting play -Mount the electric starter and the starter idler gear. -Mount the tighten cover 5 . -Move starter idler gear 4 back and forth in the direction of rotation, the maximum play may not exceed half the width of a tooth. -If play is larger, cover 5 must be removed and as many shims 6 with a thickness of 0.10 mm as necessary must be added to eliminate all play. Then remove one shim again. -Check the play again; the maximum play may not exceed more than half of the width of a tooth. 1 2 3 4 5 4 5 6

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How to Replace your starter : 99 Corolla VE

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Filed Under (Toyota Manuals) by admin on 17-06-2011

Use a 10mm ratchet attachment to remove the battery from the vehicle. Negative terminal first, then positive. Be careful not to cause an arc between the two terminals as intense pain will result.
Remove the plastic plate that the battery sits in. 2. Using the 10mm attachment again, remove the 6 bolts that hold the passenger side front splash guard from underneath the front bumper. 3. From underneath the vehicle, locate the oil filter. Look above oil filter and you will see the starter. Locate the bottom 14 mm bolt that attaches the lower portion of the starter to the engine. The bolt drives from left to right. The starter is mounted toward the front of the vehicle and underneath the intake manifold. Still cant find it?
Follow the cable that leads from the positive battery terminal. It ends at the starter. Not sure you have the right bolt? Stick your 14mm attachment on it with your fingers and see if it fits on properly

BMW F 650 GS Repair Manual And Maintenance schedule

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Filed Under (BMW) by admin on 19-11-2010

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Replace oil in telescopic forks Check the coolant and restore to correct level if necessary *) Replace the coolant (every 2 years) every 2years Check valve clearances, adjust if necessary Replace the spark plug Drain the outlet hose from the air filter box Replace intake air filter If motorcycle is operated in very dirty or dusty conditions, clean or replace the intake air filter every 10,000 km (6,000 miles); check every 3,000 km (1,800 miles) Replace fuel filter (every 20,000 km/12,000 miles) 20,000 km Check clutch play, adjust if necessary Check wheel spoke tension and tighten if necessary more frequently if motorcycle is ridden in severe off-road conditions Examine brake pads and discs for wear, replace if necessary *) more frequently if motorcycle is ridden in severe off-road conditions Check brake fluid level at front and rear and top up if necessary *) Check for operation of brake system and freedom from leaks; repair/replace if necessary *) Replace the brake fluid at least once a year Replace the primary front/rear brake master cylinder cup (every 40,000 km/24,000 miles on a motorcycle with ABS ) 40,000 km Check wheel bearings and replace if necessary *) Check or, if necessary, replace chain, sprocket, chain guide rollers and pinion *) more frequently if motorcycle is ridden in severe off-road conditions Check chain tension and adjust if necessary *) Check battery acid level, add distilled water if necessary more frequently if motorcycle is ridden in severe off-road conditions Clean and grease the battery terminals, if necessary Check steering head bearings and adjust *) or replace if necessary *) Grease the side and main stands Grease the brake pedal Check bolts and nuts on engine mountings, frame connections, exhaust system mountings, swinging fork pivot, suspension levers, brake pedal, main and side stands and quick-release axles for tightness Final inspection with road safety and functional check

CUSTOM LED 2004-2006 YAMAHA ROAD STAR INTEGRATED TAIL KIT INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 10-11-2010

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1 ) REMOVE THE SCREWS ON THE BACK SIDE OF THE TAIL LIGHT THAT HOLD THE CHROME TRIM TO THE TAIL LIGHT. 2 ) POSITION YOUR CUTTING WHEEL AS SHOWN IN THE PICTURE TO THE LEFT WHERE THE CLEAR PART OF THE LENS TURNS 90 DEGREES. THE CUTTING WHEEL SHALL REMAIN IN THE PLANE OF THE LENS. 3 ) PROCEED TO CUT INTO THE CLEAR LENS APPROXIMATELY HALF OF THE THICKNESS, ALL THE WAY AROUND THE PERIMETER OF THE LENS – BE SURE NOT TO CUT ALL THE WAY THROUGH BECAUSE IT WILL NOT GLUE BACK TOGETHER PROPERLY. SEE “TIPS FOR CUTTING YOUR LENS” BEFORE BEGINNING. TIPS FOR CUTTING YOUR LENS A) KEEP THE CUTTING WHEEL MOVING AND APPLY LIGHT PRESSURE. SITTING IN ONE SPOT WILL JUST MELT THE PLASTIC. WHEN YOU MAKE YOUR WAY AROUND THE ENTIRE PERIMETER, CLEAN ALL THE BURRED PLASTIC FROM AROUND THE EDGES AND FROM INSIDE THE GROOVE YOU’VE MADE. OPENING THE LENS 4 ) PLACE THE TIP OF A FLAT HEAD SCREWDRIVER IN THE GROOVE YOU HAVE CREATED. 5 ) GENTLY TWIST THE SCREWDRIVER TO CRACK THE GLUE ALONG THE GROOVE. NOTE: AS SOON AS YOU HEAR THE SOUND OF THE GLUE GIVING (A CRACK), MOVE THE SCREWDRIVER SLIGHTLY AND ADVANCE THE CRACK. SLOW AND STEADY IS THE NAME OF THE GAME HERE. IF YOU FIND A HARD SPOT, WEAKEN IT WITH THE CUTTING WHEEL AS NECESSARY. THE HARD PART IS OVER! YOU CAN RELAX NOW! 2 ©2005 Custom LED LLC. All Rights Reserved. 6 ) REMOVE THE SCREWS HOLDING THE STOCK LED BOARDS TO THE HOUSING (YOU WILL BE REUSING SOME OF THE SCREWS SO PUT THEM TO THE SIDE). 7 ) REMOVE THE STOCK LED ASSEMBLY FROM THE LENS HOUSING. YOU WILL NO LONGER NEED THE STOCK LED BOARD, DISPOSE OF IT AS YOU WISH. 8 ) GENTLY PRY OFF THE PLASTIC COVER TO EXPOSE THE DRIVER BOARD UNDERNEATH. 9 ) REMOVE THE SCREWS SUPPORTING THE DRIVER BOARD AND SNIP OFF THE THREE WIRES (BLUE, BLACK, YELLOW) AS SHOWN AS CLOSE TO THE CIRCUIT BOARD AS POSSIBLE! YOU WILL NEED TO CONNECT TO THESE WIRES LATER. 10 ) POP OUT THE LITTLE BLACK PLUG AS SHOWN IN THE PICTURE. YOU CAN POKE IT OUT FROM THE INSIDE OF THE HOUSING. WIRING UP YOUR CUSTOM LED BOARD PLACE YOUR CUSTOM LED INTEGRATED TAIL BOARD NEXT TO THE HOUSING AND MATCH THE WIRE COLORS AS FOLLOWS: TRY TO HANDLE THE CIRCUIT BOARD AS LITTLE AS POSSIBLE AS FINGERPRINTS AND DIRT WILL HINDER THE PERFORMANCE. • BLACK ON HARNESS TO 6″ BLACK ON CUSTOM LED BOARD • BLUE ON HARNESS TO 6″ BLUE ON CUSTOM LED BOARD • YELLOW ON HARNESS TO 6″ YELLOW ON CUSTOM LED BOARD USE THE THREE (3 OF 5) SUPPLIED ORANGE SPLICE CONNECTORS. PUSH THE TWO WIRES TO BE SPLICED TOGETHER INTO THE OPEN END. BE SURE TO PUSH THE WIRES ALL THE WAY IN (UNTIL YOU CAN SEE THEY HAVE REACHED THE OTHER SIDE). NOTE: YOU WILL NEED TO SEPARATE THE THREE WIRES FIRST BY CUTTING THE PLASTIC COLLAR THAT BINDS THEM. FOR THE WIRES TO FIT PROPERLY INTO THE CONNECTORS, YOU MUST ALSO REMOVE THE REMNANTS OF THE COLLAR FROM THE WIRES. NOTE: THE SPLICE IS MORE RELIABLE IF THE WIRE IS NOT STRIPPED. BE SURE TO SNIP OFF THE BARE ENDS OF THE WIRES ON THE CUSTOM LED TAIL TO ENSURE THAT THERE IS INSULATION WHERE THE SPLICE WILL OCCUR. THE SUPPLIED SPLICE CONNECTORS AUTOMATICALLY DISPLACE THE INSULATION AS NECESSARY. ONCE YOU DOUBLE CHECK YOUR COLOR MATCHING AND ARE ABSOLUTELY SURE THAT THE WIRES ARE FULLY INSERTED INTO THE SPLICE CONNECTORS DO THE FOLLOWING: 11 ) SQUEEZE THE SPLICE CONNECTORS FIRMLY WITH PLIERS. VISUALLY INSPECT YOUR CONNECTIONS TO SEE THAT THEY HAVE BEEN SPLICED PROPERLY INSIDE. 12 ) RUN THE GREEN AND BROWN WIRES THROUGH THE HOLE YOU OPENED UP IN STEP 9

POLINI X1 GENERAL INFORMATION AND SPECIFICATIONS

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Filed Under (Polini) by admin on 02-12-2010

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Air cleaner – Clean and reoil daily or after each moto to prevent motor failure and reduced performance. Transmission oil – change after every race, or at end of riding day. Chain – check tension and lubricate before every ride, adjust or replace as needed. Reoil after riding in damp conditions. Clutch – disassemble and clean clutch assembly frequently, every 2-3 races at least. Inspect kickstarter gears at this time. Ignition cover – remove cover and wipe dry after each ride or after washing bike to remove condensation. Piston rings – replace as often as every 3-5 races with expert rider, less often with less aggressive riders. Piston, pin, rod bearing & circlips – replace as often as every 8-10 races with expert rider, less often with less aggressive riders. Coolant – change yearly, make sure there is at least a 50/50 mixture of antifreeze if freezing temperatures are possible. Steering bearings – Check daily for looseness or play. Adjust and regrease as needed. Swingarm – Check often for looseness. Regrease several times a year. Replace bushings if any play is evident. Sprockets – check for worn or curved teeth each time chain is adjusted. Chain roller& wear pads – check roller for free rotation when checking chain. Make sure roller is not bent or damaged. Check chain wear strips on swingarm and chain guide frequently. Replace as needed to prevent chain from damaging motorcycle. Spokes – Check after each race or after each day of riding for looseness or damage. Wheels & tires – check wheels after each race for dents, cracks or other damage. Check tires for cuts, damage or wear. Check tire pressure daily and adjust for riding conditions. Shock – Check shaft area daily for signs of oil leakage or damage. Check swingarm and shock bushings for looseness. Forks – Check forks daily for leaking oil or damage to tubes. Make sure forks are not twisted check for smooth operation. Spark plug – check sparkplug color and condition after each race or end of riding day. Adjust jetting to keep plug from fouling or overheating. Silencer – If bike seems to be getting louder, replace packing and decarbonize inner tube. Expansion pipe – check daily for large dents, damage or leakage. Remove carbon from headpipe when pipe is removed. Have large dents fixed, or any dents within 8″ of the cylinder. Replace o-rings on pipe as needed to maintain a good seal. Footpegs – check daily for proper operation, pegs should spring back into place. Make sure pegs are not bent or overly dull. Handlebars – check bars after any crash for bending. Look for cracks near bar clamps. Replace bars that have been straightened more than 2 or three times, or if bar is badly bent. Aweakened bar can snap suddenly causing injury to rider. Throttle – check throttle for proper operation each time before bike is started. Remove and clean inside of grip and bar as needed. Grips – check grips daily for wear or looseness. Replace as needed. Use grip glue & safety wire to help hold grips in position. Calipers & pads – check pad wear and caliper function daily or after each race. Replace pads and clean calipers as needed. Brake lever – check lever daily for damage or wear. Make sure lever is at proper angle for both seated and standing positions. Leave lever clamp loose enough to allow clamp to rotate during crash rather than breaking lever. Check and adjust freeplay as needed. Brake pedal – Check pedal daily for damage and proper freeplay. Adjust rear caliper as needed. Reeds – Remove and inspect reed block during every ring change. Check reeds for signs of wear, fraying and cracking. Make sure reeds sit flat and seal well. Replace at any sign of wear or damage or at least once a year, more often for expert riders. Nuts & bolts – Check all nuts and bolts regularly. Make sure to check engine mounting bolts and swingarm bolt frequently

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HARLEY DAVIDSON SOFTAIL CUSTOM SEAT KITS INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 15-03-2011

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Kit Contents See Figure 3 and Table 2 for complete kit contents. See Table 1 for the grab strap part number associated with each seat kit. Table 1. Kit Numbers and Grab Strap Usage Grab Strap Kit Number 51332-07 51310-07 51910-08 51936-08 51701-06 51308-07 51365-07 51367-07 51387-06A 51388-06 51389-06 51390-06 51391-06 51392-06 51398-07 51365-07 51410-08 51411-08 51412-08 51414-08 51415-08 51416-08 51407-08 The rider’s safety depends upon the correct installation of this kit. If the procedure is not within your capabilities or you do not have the correct tools, have a Harley- Davidson dealer perform the installation. Improper installation of this kit could result in death or serious injury. (00308a) INSTALLATION NOTE When performing the following procedures, avoid scratching painted surfaces (fender, tank, etc.) with tools or metal seat tabs. FXST, FXSTB and FXSTS Models 1. See Figure 3 and Table 2. Unscrew the captive thumbscrew fastening the back of the original equipment (OE) seat to the vehicle. 2. Pull the seat slightly to the rear to disengage the tang at the front of the seat from the motorcycle frame. 3. Lift the front of the seat while pulling the seat carefully forward to remove the seat from the vehicle. 4. Remove the OE grab strap and attaching hardware. Save the hardware for later use. 5. Install the grab strap. See either “For Kit 51936-08″ or “For All Other Kits” to install the grab strap. 2007 and Later FLSTF Models 1. Remove original equipment (OE) seat and mounting hardware following the instructions in the Owner’s Manual. 2. Remove and discard the OE grab strap and attaching hardware. 3. See Figure 3. Install two flange nuts (9) from the kit onto the OE grab strap mounting studs (as shown in Figure 1, Item 1). 4. Install the grab strap. See either “For Kit 51936-08″ or “For All Other Kits” to install the grab strap.

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2001 YAMAHA TDM900 SERVICE MANUAL

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 20-11-2010

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CHECKING THE SWITCHES ELEC EAS00731 ELECTRICAL CHECKING THE SWITCHES Check each switch for damage or wear, proper connections, and also for continuity between the terminals. Refer to “CHECKING SWITCH CONTINUITY”. Damage/wear Repair or replace. Improperly connected Properly connect. Incorrect continuity reading Replace the switch. -3- ELECTRIC STARTING SYSTEM ELEC EAS00755 ELECTRIC STARTING SYSTEM CIRCUIT DIAGRAM -4- ELECTRIC STARTING SYSTEM ELEC 4 Main fuse 5 Battery 7 Starter relay 8 Starter motor 9 Main switch 12 Starting circuit cut-off relay 13 Sidestand switch 14 Neutral switch 49 Clutch switch 59 Engine stop switch 60 Start switch 61 Ignition fuse -5- ELECTRIC STARTING SYSTEM ELEC EAS00756 STARTING CIRCUIT CUT-OFF SYSTEM OPERATION If the engine stop switch is set to “” and the main switch is set to “ON” (both switches are closed), the starter motor can only operate if at least one of the following conditions is met: The transmission is in neutral (the neutral switch is closed). The clutch lever is pulled to the handlebar (the clutch switch is closed) and the side- stand is up (the sidestand switch is closed). The starting circuit cut-off relay prevents the starter motor from operating when neither of these conditions has been met. In this instance, the starting circuit cut-off relay is open so current cannot reach the starter motor. When at least one of the above conditions has been met the starting circuit cut-off relay is closed and the engine can be started by pressing the starter switch. WHEN THE TRANSMISSION IS IN NEUTRAL WHEN THE SIDESTAND IS UP AND THE CLUTCH LEVER IS PULLED TO THE HANDLEBAR 4. Starting circuit cut-off relay Disconnect the starting circuit cut-off relay from the wire harness. Connect the pocket tester (Ω 1) and battery (12 V) to the starting circuit cut-off relay terminals as shown. YES NO Replace the starting circuit cut-off relay. Does the starting circuit cut-off relay have continuity between blue/white and black? EAS00759 Continuity Tester positive probe sky blue Tester negative probe blue/yellow No conti- nuity 1 2 1 3 Tester positive probe sky blue Tester negative probe black/yellow Battery positive terminal red/black Battery negative terminal black/yellow 1 2 Tester positive prove blue/white Tester negative prove black 3 4 5. Starting circuit cut-off relay (diode) Disconnect the starting circuit cut-off relay from the wire harness. Connect the pocket tester (Ω 1) to the starting circuit cut-off relay terminals as shown. Measure the starting circuit cut-off relay for continuity as follows. Tester positive probe blue/green Tester negative probe blue/yellow 4 3 Tester positive probe black/yellow Tester negative probe sky blue 2 1 Tester positive probe blue/yellow Tester negative probe sky blue 3 1 Tester positive probe blue/yellow Tester negative probe blue/green 3 4 When you switch the tester’s positive and negative probes, the readings in the above chart will be reversed. Are the testing readings correct? YES NO Replace the starting circuit cut-off relay. NOTE: EAS00760

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Harley-Davidson S&S Super E and G Series Shorty Carburetors Installation and Jetting Instructions

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 24-10-2010

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throttle linkage with no cable modification. S&S Super E and G carb kits for 1936 to 1989 Big Twins contain a throttle cable guide (11-2339) designed for butterfly type throttle cables, and kits for 1990 and later Big Twins contain a taller throttle cable guide (11-2338) designed for CV type throttle cables. See Picture 2. The two throttle cable guides are interchangeable on the carburetor body, and can be changed very easily to update older carburetors or to accommodate custom throttle cables which are not stock for a particular year chassis. 1981 to Present Sportster Models Stock Sportster models from 1981 to 1987 have two cable throttle system designed for butterfly type carburetors. Sportsters from 1988 to present have a two cable throttle system designed for use with the stock constant velocity (CV) type carburetor. Since the taller #11-2338 cable guide bracket can not be used on a Sportster chassis due to insufficient frame clearance, throttle cables on Sportsters originally equipped with a CV type carburetor must be changed to butterfly style cables. S&S can supply the correct style throttle cables. See S&S Throttle Cable Application Chart. Picture 2 S&S THROTTLE CABLE APPLICATION CHART Length Total Housing Length Vinyl Housing Part Number Open Side Part Number Close Side Fitment 36″ 32″ #19-0430 #19-0431 For Buell with 7/8″ handlebars 36″ 32″ #19-0432 #19-0433 To ’95 ’81-’85 FX and FL; All ’81-’85 XL (Also pre-’81 w/2-cable throttle housing replaced.) For Buell with 1″ diameter handlebar 36″ 32″ #19-0436 #19-0437 ’96-Up 883-1200 XL 39″ 35″ #19-0434 #19-0435 To ’95 Softail (FXSTC, FXST, FLSTC, FLSTF) ’86-’94 FXR, ’93-’95 Dyna 39″ 35″ #19-0438 #19-0439 ’96-Up Softail (FXSTS, FXSTC, FLSTC, FLSTF) ’96-Up Dyna 42″ 38″ #19-0446 #19-0447 To ’95 custom application 42″ 38″ #19-0440 #19-0441 ’96-Up custom application 48″ 44″ #19-0462 #19-0463 To ’95 All FLT Models 48″ 44″ #19-0464 #19-0465 ’96-Up All FLT Models ” 1996 to Present Buells 1996 and 1997 Buells require special S&S butterfly style throttle cables for Buells, which are compatible with the stock 1996-1997 throttle assembly. 1998 and later carburated Buells require installation of stock 1996 – 97 throttle grip and the special S&S Buell style throttle cables when installing Super E or G carburetors. S&S Throttle Kits S&S throttle kits fit 1″ handlebars and can be used on most chassis. (An adapter sleeve is available for use with earlier, 7 ⁄ 8 ” OEM handlebars originally equipped with internal throttle cable.) Barrel fittings on S&S cables readily “plug in” to S&S Super E, G, and stock H-D 1981-’90 butterfly type carb throttle linkage. Kits include one opening and one closing side cable, left and right grips, and handlebar clamps. Kits with 36″, 39″, 42″, or 48″ length cables are available. Length specified refers to overall cable length. Vinyl covered outer housing is 4″ shorter than overall length

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1996 Toyota Supra STARTING & CHARGING SYSTEMS

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Filed Under (Toyota Manuals) by admin on 16-06-2011

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Use a 10mm ratchet attachment to remove the battery from the vehicle. Negative terminal first, then positive. Be careful not to cause an arc between the two terminals as intense pain will result.
Remove the plastic plate that the battery sits in. 2. Using the 10mm attachment again, remove the 6 bolts that hold the passenger side front splash guard from underneath the front bumper
From underneath the vehicle, locate the oil filter. Look above oil filter and you will see the starter. Locate the bottom 14 mm bolt that attaches the lower portion of the starter to the engine. The bolt
drives from left to right. The starter is mounted toward the front of the vehicle and underneath the intake manifold. Still cant find it? Follow the cable that leads from the positive battery terminal. It
ends at the starter. Not sure you have the right bolt? Stick your 14mm attachment on it with your fingers and see if it fits on properly

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