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HARLEY DAVIDSON STEERING HEAD WASHER KIT INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 05-02-2011

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INSTALLATION The rider’s safety depends upon the correct installation of this kit. Use the appropriate service manual procedures. If the procedure is not within your capabilities or you do not have the correct tools, have a Harley-Davidson dealer perform the installation. Improper installation of this kit could result in death or serious injury. (00333a) NOTE This instruction sheet references Service Manual information. A Service Manual for your model motorcycle is required for this installation and is available from a Harley-Davidson Dealer. 1. See Figure 1. Remove the fork stem cap (1). Bend the lockwasher (2) tab away from the steering stem nut (3) and remove the fork stem nut and lockwasher. Discard the lockwasher. NOTE Always tighten the steering stem nut (3) to 70 – 80 ft-lbs (95 – 109 Nm) before measuring fall away. Lubricate threads of nut with a small amount of clean engine oil. Avoid applying oil to the mating surfaces of the steering stem nut (3) and the new hardened washer from the kit. 2. Install the new hardened washer from the kit (2) and steering stem nut (3). Tighten steering stem nut (3) to 70 – 80 ft-lbs (95 – 109 Nm). 3. Check fall away following the instructions in STEERING HEAD BEARINGS BEARING ADJUSTMENT (FALLAWAY) in an appropriate Service Manual, however, tighten the steering stem nut (3) to 70 – 80 ft-lbs . Adjust adjusting nut (5), if necessary per instructions. 4. Install fork stem cap (1).

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STEERING GEAR/ STEERING WHEEL REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION

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Filed Under (Uncategorized) by admin on 05-10-2011

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TEERING GEAR/STEERING WHEEL REMOVAL & INSTALLATION Page 3 of 4 STEERING GEAR/STEERING WHEEL INSTALLATION PROCEDURES (Cont’d) 2. Center spiral cable. a. Turn the cable counterclockwise by hand until it becomes harder to turn. b. Then rotate the cable clockwise about 2.5 or 3 turns to align the marks. (See Fig. 4) 3. Install the steering wheel. a. Align the matchmarks on the wheel and steering main shaft. b. Temporarily tighten the wheel set nut. c. Connect the spiral cable connector. 4. Bleed Power Steering System (when applicable). 5. Check steering wheel center point. 6. Torque steering wheel set nut. See the applicable vehicle’s repair manual for the torque specification. 7. Install and center steering wheel pad. NOTICE: Make sure the pad is centered and installed to the specified torque. If the pad has been dropped, or there are cracks, dents or other defects in the case or connector, replace the wheel pad with a new one. When installing the pad, take care that the wiring does not interfere with other parts and is not pinched between other parts. a) Connect the airbag wiring connector. b) Install the pad after confirming that torx screws are in the screw case. c) Using a torx socket, torque the screws to the specification in the vehicle’s Repair Manual. (See Fig. 5) d) Install the steering wheel lower cover

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Motorcycle Derived Steering / Suspension Systems

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 29-11-2010

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1. Examine the handlebars and fork yokes. 2. Turn the steering from lock to lock with the steered wheel both on a turning plate and clear of the ground. Cont’d Reason for Rejection 1. A handlebar or fork yoke a. deformed b. fractured c. cracked d. excessively corroded e. clamps not tight, or any bolt loose or missing f. handgrips missing or not secure to handlebars g. handlebar flexible mounting excessively deteriorated. 2. a. any fouling or restriction of the free movement of the steering from lock to lock b. handlebar grip/s or handlebar mounted control/s have no clearance with any other part of the machine when the steering is placed on either full lock c. steering movement excessively stiff or rough Reason for Rejection 5 does not apply to fork gaiters or shrouds. . Cont’d Method of Inspection 3. Examine the steering damper. 4. Examine the steering head bearings. 5. Examine the front fork assembly. Cont’d Reason for Rejection 3. A steering damper a. insecure b. ineffective c. impairing the steering action. 4. Excessive free play in the steering head bearings. 5. A fork assembly component which is a. missing b. loose c. cracked d. excessively bent, misaligned, corroded, worn, or has excessive free play between the sliding members of the forks, the pivot bearings or bushes e. restricted in operation f. fouling

2006-up Harley-Davidson Single Bore Induction System Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 10-11-2010

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Remove the stock fuel induction system, including the manifold and disconnecting all wire connections. It is up to the technician as to whether the gas tank should be removed or just raised up in the rear. Picture 1 2- You will need to disassemble the stock induction system to remove the pre-listed parts for re-use. 3- Verify the new manifold size is appropriate for your motorcycle by sliding it in place. Picture 2 Picture 3 4 5- Slide the MAP sensor in place, being sure not to pinch the orange rubber seal—some clean engine oil may make this easier. Install the cable guide and verify it is aligned with the throttle cable actuator. Once alignment is satisfactory, apply Loctite® 222 to the 10-24 x 1/4″ screws and tighten to 18-22 in-lbs. 4- Install the new O-ring into the throttle body. A light film of clean engine oil can be used to help hold the O-ring in place. Align the manifold to the throttle body, use purple 222 Loctite® on the 10-24 x 1″ socket-head assembly screws (with flat washers) and tighten them to 35-40 in-lbs. 6- Using the new S&S® supplied gasket, slide the S&S supplied intake air temperature (IAT) sensor in place. Use Loctite 222 on the T10 Torx button head M3 x .5 x 10mm screws and tighten to 6-8 in-lbs. Picture 4 Picture 5 Picture 6 5 7- For the stock throttle position sensor attach the “C” shaped spacer to the end of the throttle shaft, put a 4mm flat washer on each T20 Torx button head M4 x .7 x 12mm screw, apply some Loctite® 222 and torque screws to 18-23 in-lbs. 8- Install the new O-ring on the IAC motor. Lubricate the OD of the O-ring with a light film of clean engine oil. Put a 4mm flat washer on each T20 Torx button head M4 x .7 x 12mm screw, coat the threads with Loctite 222. Install the IAC motor and tighten the screws to 18-23 in-lbs. 9- Partially install the fuel injectors in the fuel rail. Be sure to orient the black O-rings to the rail and align the clocking tabs with their holes. It may be helpful to lubricate the O-rings with clean engine oil. See Picture 9. NOTE : These are special O-rings that seal pressurized gasoline. If you see one with damage or an abrasion—replace it immediately. Picture 7 Picture 8 Picture 9 6 10- Connect the Injectors to the manifold with a light squeezing action. Lubricate the O-rings with clean engine oil. Once in place, use Loctite® 222 on the threads of two 8-32 x 5/8″ slotted panhead screws and tighten to 15-20 in-lbs. 11- Install the backing washer and O-ring on the fuel supply tube. Lubricate the O-ring with clean engine oil. When the tube is in place, position the Y-shaped clip on the fuel rail and tighten the Loctite 222 coated T20 Torx button head M4 x 7 x 12mm screw to 18-23 in-lbs – Gently push the injectors downward toward the manifold to increase clearance for connecting the wire connectors. Cut the existing injector connectors from the motorcycle harness. Slide the sleeveing onto the injector harness. Slide heat shrink tubing on to each wire of the injector harness wires. Crimp the butt splices to the motorcycle harness. Move the heat shrinks over the splices and shrink with a heat gun. Slide the sleeve into place. Picture 10 Picture 11a Picture 11b Picture 12 Picture 12a 7 13- Put the stock manifold flanges on the manifold. YOU MUST USE THE S&S® RUBBER GASKETS ON THEM. Be sure to orient the tapered end towards the manifold and the flat end to the heads. 14- Hold the manifold up in its basic mounting position and connect all of the wiring harness connectors at this time. Install the manifold using the stock mounting flange bolts (from the primary side of the motorcycle) coated with Loctite® 242 and the new S&S cam side screws (1/4″ socket head, 5/16-18 x 3/4″). If a screw longer than 3/4″ is used, damage to the heads will result. Lightly snug all four manifold mounting bolts but DO NOT TIGHTEN AT THIS TIME. Connect the throttle cables and cruise control bracket (if applicable) at this time. NOTE: The Harley-Davidson® service manual for your model motorcycle will be helpful during this step. 15- Install the breather system now. On 4.00-inch bore or smaller engines the breather uses banjo fittings with hollow bolts and connects across the heads to the intake with a T-hose. This hose will need to be trimmed and have spring clamps attached as shown in photo. Torque the hollow bolts to 10-12 ft-lbs. On 41/8-inch bore or larger engines, install the sharp bent hose on the rear head and install the check valve with the white end towards the head. Mount the other hose on the black end of the check valve and connect it to the throttle body using spring clamps to secure the connections. Picture 13 Picture 14 Picture 15 8 16- Once the breathers are secure, install the fuel line per the factory service manual you are working with. Connect the battery and verify the fuel pump turns on to pressurize the system and there are no gas leaks, but DO NOT START THE ENGINE. At this time, PC software may also be used to verify sensor readings and adjust the throttle position sensor voltage if necessary. 17- Install two 242 Loctite® coated pipe plugs (included in kit) in the air cleaner backplate as shown in Picture 16. Torque to 35-45 in-lbs. Also, two pan screws coated with Loctite® 222 must be installed in the backplate in place of the enrichment device. See Picture 16a. Torque them to 12-18 in-lbs. Failure to install these screws could allow dirt and debris into the intake system. 18- Use a new gasket on the backplate and put it in place noting the number of shims required. Once you select the appropriate shims (included) mount the backing plate to the engine but DO NOT INSTALL THE SCREWS YET

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Harley-Davidson V-Rod Destroyer Indy Series Exhaust REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 24-10-2010

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STOCK EXHAUST SYSTEM REMOVAL (DESTROYER) 1. Remove both collector bolts. 2. Remove nuts from both front and rear exhaust cylinder head flanges using a 13mm socket. 3. If the Racepak is installed, remove both O2 and EGT sensors from the front and rear head pipes. 4. Carefully remove complete exhaust from the motorcycle. STOCK EXHAUST SYSTEM REMOVAL (V-ROD) 5. Loosen clamp bolt at front of the collector using a 13mm socket. 6. Remove muffler bracket bolt using a 13mm wrench. 7. Carefully remove muffler and collector assembly from motorcycle. 8. Remove nuts from both front and rear exhaust cylinder head flanges using a 13mm socket. 9. Carefully remove head pipes from motorcycle. 10. Remove the stock exhaust flanges and circlips from both the front and rear head pipes. If the circlips are bent or twisted they should be replaced, Harley-Davidson part number #65045-01 We also recommend replacing the stock exhaust gaskets, Harley-Davidson part number #65109-01 INDY SERIES EXHAUST SYSTEM INSTALLATION 1. Identify front head pipe #7-8002. Install the stock flange and circlip. Install the exhaust gasket and front header pipe, leaving the flange nuts hand tight. 2. Repeat the above step for the rear head pipe #7-8006. 3. Slip the megaphone/collector assembly onto the head pipes, secure with the four springs supplied using the spring puller tool. 4. Rotate the exhaust so there is adequate clearance in all places. 5. Tighten the cylinder head flange nuts for both the front and rear head pipes. 6. Tighten both the EGT and O2 plugs on the front and rear head pipes. 7. Clean all fingerprints from the exhaust using a contact cleaner (or other non flammable cleaner). Fingerprints will leave stains on the pipe once the motorcycle is started. 8. You are now ready to start the motorcycle.

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Tacoma Power Steering Pump Improving Power Steering Reservoir modification

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Filed Under (Toyota Manuals) by admin on 02-10-2011

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For my SAS I decided to add hydraulic steering assist as it comes in real handy for rock crawling. I got the Redneck Ram setup from the folks at West Texas Off-road that includes rebuilding an earlier IFS steering box along with drilling and tapping the box for the included ram. One of the down sides of adding a ram is that it slows the steering down because the stock steering pump has to supply the added volume for the hydraulic ram. Another is that it creates a fluid volume change in the system reservoir that needs to be compensated for in some way. After doing some reading on the West Texas site about how to go about modifying a Saginaw pump and reading up on earlier Toyota pump mods for steering assist setups on the Pirate board, I decided to give it whirl and see what I could do about the Tacoma pump. Chuck Gardella was kind enough to supply me with a blown pump that I could rebuild and submit to my endless fiddling and tinkering. I plan to give him my pump in return when I get this one done and installed. You need to do something to allow for more room in the reservoir for the standard hydraulic ram assist setup so I decided to tackle the reservoir first. The reason you need the extra space is because the ram is unbalanced. That is there is a rod on one side of the cylinder and not on the other side so the volume of the fluid has to change in the system to account for the volume of the rod as it travels back and forth. I calculated the volume of the rod that I have at full stroke to be about 2 oz or so. This would equate to plus or minus up to 2 oz. in the pump reservoir. Well first off, it’s no wonder why so many folks boil their steering pumps over with heavy wheeling and have so many other steering problems. The stock power steering reservoir doesn’t even rate pint sized

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2006 Harley Davidson VROD / Screamin' Eagle VROD Installation Manual

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 01-03-2012

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Check top clamp holding on rear heat shield be sure this is mounted forward not in middle of pipe. 2. Slide rear head pipe into collector and leave loose. 3. Mount head pipes into exhaust ports using stock Harley gaskets hand thread nuts onto head studs, leaving play in pipes. 4. Slip muffler onto collector and leave loose. 5. Slide D&D bracket included with kit onto chassis and muffler together. 6. Hand thread nuts onto chassis studs 7. Align muffler flush with bracket, hand thread bolts onto muffler.
8. Push system together tightly, Tighten rear head pipe collector clamp. 9. Holding muffler into place (finger width between shock bolt) tighten down muffler clamp all the way. 10. Snug (do not torque) chassis bracket bolts, snug muffler bolts until all is correctly aligned, then tighten down bolts. 11. Tighten head bolts down using factory torque specs, as you tighten the pipe check muffler clearance. If to close to swing arm push in on head pipe. If to far away push in on head pipe. 12. Once all is tight start bike and check for leaks This system is designed to be used with a high flow air filter and D&D VRDSEDD2.MT4 Race Tuner map.

HARLEY DAVIDSON DYNA LongShot Exhaust System Installation Manual

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 22-12-2010

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REMOVING THE STOCK EXHAUST SYSTEM 1. Loosen the heat shield clamps on both front and rear exhaust pipes. 2. Remove the two mounting nuts from each head pipe, located at the cylinder head. 3. Remove both front and rear head pipe clamp bolts. 4. Remove the entire exhaust system and set it aside. 5. Carefully remove the flanges and circlips from the stock exhaust system using snapring pliers. Note: If circlips look bent or twisted replace them with new circlips. 6. Remove the rear head pipe clamp bracket from the transmission cover. Save the bolts, two will be reused. INSTALLING YOUR NEW VANCE & HINES EXHAUST SYSTEM 1. Locate the muffler mounting bracket (stamped 239). Mount the bracket to the engine case, to the rear of the transmission cover using the two stock bolts. Refer to figure 1. Tighten the bolts at this time. Install the mounting bar (supplied) to the transmission housing using the stock hardware. Refer to figure 1 . Note: The mounting bracket should mount flatagainst the transmission housing. Some motorcycles use a stud to mount the stock rear head pipe clamp, be sure to remove the stud from the transmission housing and replace it when mounting the bracket, this will insure that the bracket is flat against the housing. 2. Locate the muffler clamp bracket (stamped 240). Install the bracket to the outside of bracket 239, using the 5/16″x 1 1/4″ bolt and 5/16″ flat washer (supplied). Refer to figure 1. Leave the bracket loose, it will be adjusted later. 3. Unscrew all of the hose clamps (supplied) until they are completely loose. Feed the tail end of the hose clamp into the clips on the inside of both heat shields. Note: The screw end of the hose clamp should be accessible, but not visible when pipe is mounted on the bike. 4. Install the circlips and flanges from the stock system onto both the new head pipes. 5. Slide the new pipe clamp (supplied) onto the muffler end of the front head pipe. Position the clamp in the approximate mounting location on the pipe. 6. Place the front head pipe into the heat shield, wrap the hose clamp around the head pipe and give the screw three to four turns, leaving heat shield loose on the head pipe. Repeat this step with the rear head pipe.

Harley Davidson Sportster Straightshots HS Slip-on Exhaust system

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 19-12-2010

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STOCK EXHAUST SYSTEM REMOVAL 1. Loosen the heat shield clamps on both the front and rear exhaust pipes. This allows easier access to the head pipe mounting nuts. 2. Loosen, but do not remove, the two head pipe mounting nuts from each flange located at the cylinder head. 3. Remove the clamp bolt which mounts the rear head pipe to the belt drive cover bracket. 4. Loosen the clamp holding the mufflers onto the head pipes. Page 1 of 4 D480IN Rev. 1.0 Sportster Straightshots HS Slip-on Exhaust system Part #16819 U S A Congratulations, you have purchased the finest exhaust system available for your motorcycle. Your VANCE & HINES exhaust system is designed and crafted for maximum performance, a perfect fit, a great sound and unbeatable style! Please follow the installation instructions below and if you have any questions, feel free to call our technical help line (562) 926-5291. Attention Installer: (if other than owner): Please forward this instruction sheet to the purchaser of this product. These instructions contain valuable information necessary to the end user. Tools required for installation: 1/2″ combination wrench 3/8″ drive ratchet and 9″ extension 9/16″ and 1/2″ sockets 5/16″ Nutdriver/flat blade screwdriver 5. Remove the two bolts from each muffler which attach the mufflers to the mounting bar. 6. Remove the mufflers by sliding them off the head pipes. 7. Remove the clamp from the nose of each muffler (these will be re-used when installing the new mufflers). 8. Remove the gaskets from the crossover ports on the stock mufflers. Inspect the gaskets and replace if damaged or worn (H-D part #65927-00). 9. Install crossover gaskets onto mounting bar on motorcycle. VANCE & HINES EXHAUST SYSTEM INSTALLATION 1. Remove mufflers and heat shields from protective packaging. 2. Slide the nut plate inside the bracket that is welded to the backside of each muffler body and attach the muffler bodies to the mounting brackets (stamped 379-P) using four 5/16″ x 5/8″ flange head bolts (supplied). Leave them loose at this time (Figure 1). 3. Slide stock exhaust clamp onto nose of each muffler. 4. Slide mufflers onto head pipes and align crossover port with gasket on mounting bar (Figure 2). Press into place on gasket. 5. Attach the muffler brackets to the stock mounting bar using four 5/16″ x 3/4″ hex head bolts, washers, and nuts (supplied). Leave them loose at this time (Figure 3). 6. Tighten cylinder port exhaust flange nuts on front and rear cylinders. 7. Install and tighten the clamp bolt which mounts the rear head pipe to the belt drive cover bracket. 8. Align muffler and bracket so they sit level. Tighten the muffler mounting bolts and the bracket mounting bolts. 9. Tighten the clamp holding the muffler onto the head pipe.

Harley Davidson Steering Wheel Radio Control Interface Installation instructions

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 03-05-2012

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1) Turn on the ignition to supply power to the SWI-3. 2) Use a pen to depress the “program mode” button. Remove pen when left LED light comes on. 3) Within 10 seconds press and hold one of the steering wheel function buttons. Continue to hold steering wheel button until the left LED turns off. Release the steering wheel button and the right LED turns on. 4) Place the stereo’s IR remote within 3″ of the “IR Input” port on the side of the SWI-3 next to the program button. Press and hold the remote’s button that corresponds to the steering wheel button that was pressed. Continue to hold the remote’s button until the right LED turns off. Release the button and the left LED will turn on. 5) Repeat steps 3 and 4 until all radio steering wheel functions are programmed. 6) When programming is complete, wait 10 seconds and both LED’s will flash 3 times. This indicates an automatic program exit. Do not stop more than 10 seconds while programming or there will be an automatic program exit and you will have to start over at step number 2 above. Turning off ignition before the automatic exit will require starting over at step 2 above. The SWI-3 can be reprogrammed unlimited times. Testing • Test the SWI-3 by holding it’s infrared LED (LED on the end of 4′ lead) close to the stereo and verify that it works properly. Experiment with various locations for the LED. You should be able to find a hidden and convenient mounting location. Try along the top front and /or bottom of the stereo as well as it’s sides. The LED can be replaced with most any IR LED, like Radio Shack’s # 276-143. The longest lead of the LED connects to the red wire of the 4′ cable and the short lead of the LED connects to the black wire of the 4′ cable

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