replacing throttle grip on honda vtx 1300

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HARLEY DAVIDSON HEATED HAND GRIP KITS REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 08-02-2011

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REMOVAL Preparation To prevent accidental vehicle start-up, which could cause death or serious injury, remove main fuse before proceeding. (00251b) 1. Refer to the service manual and follow the instructions given to remove the main fuse. When servicing the fuel system, do not smoke or allow open flame or sparks in the vicinity. Gasoline is extremely flammable and highly explosive, which could result in death or serious injury. (00330a) 2. Remove the fuel tank according to the service manual instructions. -J04259 1 of 8 Left-Side Grip Removal 1. See Figure 1. Using a T-25 TORX drive head, remove the upper and lower switch housing screws (1). 2. Using a T-27 TORX drive head, loosen the upper screw securing the handlebar clamp (3) to the clutch lever bracket. Remove the lower clamp screw with flat washer. Loosen the clamp and position the clutch hand lever assembly away from the switch housing. Separate the upper and lower switch housings. 3. With “glueless” grip: Remove the grip from the handlebar. With glued grip: Remove the grip by carefully cutting it away from the handlebar using a sharp blade or knife. 2 2 1 5 4 3 1 is01283 1. Switch housing screws 2. Grooves 3. Handlebar clamp 4. Left handlebar grip 5. Larger diameter of flange Figure 1. Left Handlebar Switch Housing Right-Side Grip Removal Do not remove or install the master cylinder assembly without first positioning a 5/32-inch (4 mm) thick insert between the brake lever and lever bracket. Removing or installing the master cylinder assembly without the insert in place may result in damage to the rubber boot and plunger on the front stoplight switch. (00324a) NOTE A section of corrugated cardboard or the eyelet of an ordinary cable strap can be used for this purpose. See Figure 2. 1. Place a 5/32-inch (4 mm) thick insert between the brake lever and the lever bracket. 2. Using a T-25 TORX® drive head, remove the upper and lower switch housing screws. 3. Using a T-27 TORX drive head, loosen the upper screw securing the handlebar clamp to the brake master cylinder housing. Remove the lower clamp screw with flat washer. Loosen the clamp and position the master cylinder assembly away from the switch housing. Separate the upper and lower switch housings. 4. Remove the grip from the handlebar. NOTES The twist grip sensor in the right side of the handlebar has a seal cap that protects internal electrodes from dirt and moisture, and also serves as a retention device for the throttle grip. To remove the grip, a slight tug may be necessary to release the index pins in the grip from the receptacle in the seal cap. Upon removing the grip, check the location of the seal cap. If the seal cap is still fastened to the index pins inside the old throttle grip, it can be discarded along with the grip. If the seal cap is still fastened to the end of the twist grip sensor: •See Figure 3. Insert a small screwdriver or other flat-blade tool into the flat area on one side of the seal cap. •Press the leg on the underside of the cap to free it from the slot at the end of the twist grip sensor. Pry up one end of the cap. •Repeat on the other side of the cap. •Carefully remove the cap and discard it

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Harley-Davidson S&S Super E and G Series Shorty Carburetors Installation and Jetting Instructions

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 24-10-2010

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throttle linkage with no cable modification. S&S Super E and G carb kits for 1936 to 1989 Big Twins contain a throttle cable guide (11-2339) designed for butterfly type throttle cables, and kits for 1990 and later Big Twins contain a taller throttle cable guide (11-2338) designed for CV type throttle cables. See Picture 2. The two throttle cable guides are interchangeable on the carburetor body, and can be changed very easily to update older carburetors or to accommodate custom throttle cables which are not stock for a particular year chassis. 1981 to Present Sportster Models Stock Sportster models from 1981 to 1987 have two cable throttle system designed for butterfly type carburetors. Sportsters from 1988 to present have a two cable throttle system designed for use with the stock constant velocity (CV) type carburetor. Since the taller #11-2338 cable guide bracket can not be used on a Sportster chassis due to insufficient frame clearance, throttle cables on Sportsters originally equipped with a CV type carburetor must be changed to butterfly style cables. S&S can supply the correct style throttle cables. See S&S Throttle Cable Application Chart. Picture 2 S&S THROTTLE CABLE APPLICATION CHART Length Total Housing Length Vinyl Housing Part Number Open Side Part Number Close Side Fitment 36″ 32″ #19-0430 #19-0431 For Buell with 7/8″ handlebars 36″ 32″ #19-0432 #19-0433 To ’95 ’81-’85 FX and FL; All ’81-’85 XL (Also pre-’81 w/2-cable throttle housing replaced.) For Buell with 1″ diameter handlebar 36″ 32″ #19-0436 #19-0437 ’96-Up 883-1200 XL 39″ 35″ #19-0434 #19-0435 To ’95 Softail (FXSTC, FXST, FLSTC, FLSTF) ’86-’94 FXR, ’93-’95 Dyna 39″ 35″ #19-0438 #19-0439 ’96-Up Softail (FXSTS, FXSTC, FLSTC, FLSTF) ’96-Up Dyna 42″ 38″ #19-0446 #19-0447 To ’95 custom application 42″ 38″ #19-0440 #19-0441 ’96-Up custom application 48″ 44″ #19-0462 #19-0463 To ’95 All FLT Models 48″ 44″ #19-0464 #19-0465 ’96-Up All FLT Models ” 1996 to Present Buells 1996 and 1997 Buells require special S&S butterfly style throttle cables for Buells, which are compatible with the stock 1996-1997 throttle assembly. 1998 and later carburated Buells require installation of stock 1996 – 97 throttle grip and the special S&S Buell style throttle cables when installing Super E or G carburetors. S&S Throttle Kits S&S throttle kits fit 1″ handlebars and can be used on most chassis. (An adapter sleeve is available for use with earlier, 7 ⁄ 8 ” OEM handlebars originally equipped with internal throttle cable.) Barrel fittings on S&S cables readily “plug in” to S&S Super E, G, and stock H-D 1981-’90 butterfly type carb throttle linkage. Kits include one opening and one closing side cable, left and right grips, and handlebar clamps. Kits with 36″, 39″, 42″, or 48″ length cables are available. Length specified refers to overall cable length. Vinyl covered outer housing is 4″ shorter than overall length

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BMW K 1300 S, K 1300 R and K 1300 GT SPECIFICATION

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Filed Under (BMW) by admin on 17-11-2010

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The K 1300 S with 175 hp, the K 1300 R with 173 hp and the K 1300 GT with 160 hp. The new K bikes feature updated transmission and clutch assembly, plus smoother engine performance and new switchgear. Von Kuenheim continues: “By raising capacity to 1300 cc, our engineers have not only increased output but also torque on all three models. At the same time the driveline was intensively revised from air/fuel mixture formation right through to the exhaust system. In this way we have been able to optimize partial load behavior as well as throttle response. Now the clutch can be operated with even less effort and with greater refinement. Shifting has been improved tangibly due to constructional changes to the gearbox and drive.” BMW is introducing new options for the 2009 as well. The popular Electronic Suspension Adjustment that first appeared on the 2005 K 1200 S has now been updated with even more on-the-fly adjustability and it’s called ESA II. Also new is the quick-shifter option, racing-style gear shift assistant, borrowed from BMW’s race-ready HP2 Sport. Automatic Stability Control (ASC) is also offered as an option on the new K bikes. “Both the K 1300 S and also the R will also have the shift assistant – familiar from the HP2 Sport – available as an option for the first time,” von Kuenheim emphasized. “We have also advanced the chassis. The new lower longitudinal strut is now made of aluminum and is thus considerably lighter. This makes the front wheel guidance response even more sensitive. The result of this comprehensive development work is superior handling, improved rideability and lower fuel consumption. The electronically adjustable suspension – called ESA in short – was launched as a world first on the K 1200 S. Now we are presenting the new, well-proven ESA II as an option for the K Series. Apart from the suspension and damping this unique system also allows the spring rate to be adjusted at the press of a button. The K Series model revision also heralds a new and innovative generation of switches and controls.

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HARLEY DAVIDSON FLAME HANDLEBAR GRIPS REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 12-02-2011

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REMOVE AND INSTALL THE LEFT GRIP 1. See Figure 1. Using a T27 TORX® drive head, remove the two screws with flat washers securing the handebar clamp (3) to the clutch lever bracket. Remove the clamp and position the clutch hand lever assembly away from the handlebar 2. Using a T25 TORX® drive head, loosen but do not remove the upper and lower switch housing screws (1). 3. Remove the end cap from the existing left handlebar grip if so equipped. Remove the grip by carefully cutting it away from the handlebar using a sharp blade or knife. Do not lubricate left handlebar grip before installation. Lubricating grip can cause it to come off while riding, which could result in loss of control and death or serious injury. (00315a) NOTE Make sure that the handlebar surface and the inside of the grip are smooth, dry and thoroughly cleaned of all dirt or adhesive residue. 4. Position the new left grip (4) so the larger flange (5) is at the bottom. Push the grip fully onto the handlebar. 5. Fit the grooves (2) on the outboard side of the upper and lower switch housing over the flanges on the end of the grip, then loosely fasten the two screws. 6. Position the clutch hand lever assembly inboard of the switch housing assembly, engaging the tab on the lower switch housing in the groove at the bottom of the clutch lever bracket. 7. Align the holes in the handlebar clamp with those in the clutch lever bracket, and loosely fasten the two screws with flat washers. Adjust the switch housing and clutch hand control position for rider comfort. 8. Using a T27 TORX® drive head, tighten first the upper, then the lower handlebar clamp screws to 60-80 in-lbs (6.8-9 Nm) . 9. Using a T25 TORX® drive head, tighten first the lower, then the upper switch housing screws to 35-45 in-lbs (4- 5.4 Nm) . 5 3 1 1 4 2 2 is00735 1. Switch housing screws 2. Grooves 3. Handlebar clamp 4. Left handlebar grip 5. Larger flange Figure 1. Left Handlebar Switch Housing REMOVE AND INSTALL THE RIGHT GRIP NOTE Right handlebar switch removal requires a Service Manual for your model and year of motorcycle. A Service Manual can be purchased from your Harley-Davidson Dealer. 1. Refer to the RIGHT HANDLEBAR SWITCH section of the Service Manual for removal of the switch housing assembly. This is necessary to access the throttle cables. 2. Refer to the THROTTLE CONTROL section of the Service Manual to disconnect the throttle cables and remove the existing right grip/throttle sleeve assembly. After removal, make sure that the handlebar end is clean and smooth. 3. Follow instructions in the Service Manual to install the new right grip/throttle sleeve to the handlebar and connect the throttle cables. 4. Verify that the right grip/throttle sleeve rotates and returns freely and does not bind on the handlebar or switch housing.

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HARLEY DAVIDSON MULTI-FIT BRAIDED THROTTLE/ IDLE CABLE KITS REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 01-02-2011

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REMOVAL To prevent accidental vehicle start-up, which could cause death or serious injury, disconnect negative (-) battery cable before proceeding. (00048a) 1. Disconnect battery cables, negative (-) cable first or remove the main fuse following the instructions in the service manual. NOTE When performing cable disassembly procedures, make careful notes as to the existing cable routing. Pay special attention to existing cable strap locations before removing so new straps can be placed into the same locations. Do not remove or install the master cylinder assembly without first positioning a 5/32-inch (4 mm) thick insert between the brake lever and lever bracket. Removing or installing the master cylinder assembly without the insert in place may result in damage to the rubber boot and plunger on the front stoplight switch. (00324a) 2. See Figure 1. Place the cardboard insert between the brake lever and lever bracket. 3. See Figure 2. Loosen cable adjuster jam nuts. Turn cable adjusters in until they are as short as possible. This will provide enough slack for easy removal. 4. Remove the right upper and lower switch housing screws INSTALLATION Throttle and Idle Cable Installation 1. See Figure 3. Apply graphite lightly to the throttle grip inside the switch housing and on the throttle end of the handlebar. NOTE The throttle control cable has a larger diameter retaining ring crimped to the cable end than does the idle control cable. For assembly, apply a drop of light oil on the retaining rings of the crimped inserts. 2. See Figure 7. Push the throttle cable housing and retaining ring into the larger hole of the switch housing, located in front of the tension adjuster screw. 3. Push the idle cable housing and retaining ring into the smaller hole of the switch housing, located behind the tension adjuster screw. 4. Push the throttle and idle control cable housings into the lower switch housing until each snaps into place. NOTE For models not equipped with factory-installed cruise control, if the friction shoe has fallen out or become dislodged, install the shoe with the concave side facing up and position it so the pin hole is over the point of the adjuster screw. 5. Push the throttle control grip over the end of the right handlebar until it bottoms against the closed end. Rotate the grip until the ferrule notches are at the top. To prevent binding, pull the grip back about 0.12 inch (3.2 mm). 6. See Figure 3. Position the lower switch housing beneath the throttle control grip. Install two brass ferrules (Item 3, Figure 11) from this kit onto cables, seating the ferrules in their respective notches on the throttle control grip. The cables must be captured in the grooves molded into the grip. 7. Position the upper switch housing over the handlebar and lower switch housing. Route the wire harness conduit through the depression at the bottom of the handlebar. 8. Tighten the upper and lower switch housing screws finger- tight. 9. Position the brake lever/master cylinder assembly inboard of the switch housing assembly, engaging the tab on the lower switch housing in the groove at the top of the brake lever bracket. 10. Align the holes in the handlebar clamp with those in the master cylinder housing and tighten the lower screw and flat washer finger-tight. Position for rider comfort. Beginning with the top screw, tighten the screws to 60-80 in-lbs (6.8-9.0 Nm)

2004 Honda CRF450R OWNER'S MANUAL

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 21-11-2010

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motorcycle can be kickstarted with the transmission in gear by disengaging the clutch before operating the kickstarter. Check the engine oil, transmission oil and coolant levels before starting the engine (page 21, 23, 24). Cold Engine Starting: 1. Turn the fuel valve ON. 2. Shift the transmission into neutral. 3. If the temperature is 35°C (95°F) or below, pull the choke knob fully out. 4. If the temperature is below 0°C (32°F), open the throttle two or three times. (The engine requires a richer mixture for starting in cold weather. When the throttle is so opened, the accelerator pump will feed extra fuel to the cylinder, thereby facilitating starting in cold weather.) 5. With the throttle closed, operate the kickstarter starting from the top of the kickstarter stroke, kick through to the bottom with a rapid, continuous motion. (Do not open the throttle, As the carburetor is equipped with an accelerator pump, excessive fuel will be charged into the engine, and the spark plug will be fouled if the throttle is opened and closed repeatedly. Excessive fuel in the engine makes kick- starting difficult.) 6. About a minute after the engine starts, push the choke knob back all the way to fully OFF. If idling is unstable, open the throttle slightly. (1) FUEL FILL CAP (2) BREATHER TUBE WARNING (1) FUEL VALVE (2) CHOKE KNOB Warm Engine Starting: 1. Turn the fuel valve ON. 2. Shift the transmission into neutral. 3. Pull the hot start lever and kick-start the engine. (Do not open the throttle.) 4. As soon as the engine starts, release the hot start lever 1. Shift the transmission into neutral. 2. Pull the hot start lever and kick-start the engine. (Do not open the throttle.) 3. As soon as the engine starts, release the hot start lever. Starting the engine excessively charged with fuel by throttle blipping or other reasons: 1. Shift the transmission into neutral. 2. With the throttle fully opened, repeat kickstarter operation approximately 10 times very slowly to discharge excessive fuel from the engine. 3. Pull the hot start lever and kick-start the engine (Do not open the throttle.) 4. As soon as the engine starts, release the hot start lever. Stopping The Engine 1. Shift the transmission into neutral. 2. Turn the fuel valve OFF. 3. Lightly open the throttle 2 – 3 times, and then close it. 4. Depress and hold the engine stop button until the engine stops completely. NOTE: • Failure to close the fuel valve may cause the carburetor to overflow. (1) THROTTLE GRIP (2) ENGINE STOP BUTTON Break-In Procedure Help assure your CRF’s future reliability and performance by paying extra attention to how you ride during the first operating day or 15 miles (25 km). During this period, avoid full-throttle starts and rapid acceleration. This same procedure should be followed each time when: • Piston is replaced • Rings are replaced • Cylinder is replaced • Crankshaft or crank bearing are replaced

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Honda VTX 1300 EZ-Steer Installation Instruction

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 16-02-2011

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installation of the Champion EZ-Steer system is similar to the installation of the OEM triple clamps of your Honda VTX 1300 Motorcycle. We strongly recommend that you use your OEM service manual and follow the prescribed disassembly, installation and torque specifications (except where noted below) for the upper and lower clamp assembly. Recommended Procedures • Disconnect all wiring to headlight and remove headlight, windscreen (if so equipped) and brackets from motorcycle. • Remove handle bars from top clamp. • Remove brake caliper and brackets; disconnect all mounting points on brake lines. Secure calipers to frame being careful not to damage brake lines. • The wheel and fork tube assembly can be removed as one complete unit. • Remove caps and install supplied extensions to fork tubes using the supplied o-rings. Apply lubricant to o-rings and extensions prior to installing to fork tubes. Reinstall OEM caps and o-rings. • Remove steering lock from OEM bottom clamp and install on Champion’s bottom clamp. • Replacing the upper OEM bearing and race with the Champion supplied bearing and race, install Champion’s lower triple clamp to motorcycle reusing original hardware as removed. Torque bearing lock nut to 35 lb. ft. • Install fork tube covers to bottom clamp if supplied with OEM motorcycle. • Remove OEM nylon tube cover sliders from lower fork legs and replace with supplied sliders, if required for lower chrome covers on C models. See figure on the right. • Install Champion upper clamp with OEM washer and dome nut. Leave loose. • Slide forks up and into the upper clamp until top of extension is flush with top surface of clamp. • Torque dome nut to 75 lb. ft. • Ensure that fork tube extensions are flush with top of upper clamp. Torque upper 8mm bolts to 20 lb. ft and lower 10 mm clamp bolts to 30 lb. ft. • Install handle bars to upper clamp using OEM nut and flat washers. • Reinstall brake line holders to the lower triple clamp. • Reinstall all other OEM parts as removed. • Bleed brakes.

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HARLEY DAVIDSON SPORTSTER HAND GRIPS INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 24-02-2011

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Remove and Install the Left Grip 1. See Figure 1. Using a T27 TORX®drive head, remove the two screws with flat washers securing the handlebar clamp (3) to the clutch lever bracket. Remove the clamp and position the clutch hand lever assembly away from the handlebar. 2. Using a T25 TORX®drive head, loosen but do not remove the upper and lower switch housing screws (1). 3. Remove the end cap from the existing left handlebar grip if so equipped. Remove the grip by carefully cutting it away from the handlebar using a sharp blade or knife. Do not lubricate left handlebar grip before installation. Lubricating grip can cause it to come off while riding, which could result in loss of control and death or serious injury. (00315a) NOTE Make sure that the handlebar surface and the inside of the grip are smooth, dry and thoroughly cleaned of all dirt or adhesive residue. 4. Position the new left grip (4) so the larger flange (5) is at the bottom. Push the grip fully onto the handlebar. 5. Fit the grooves (2) on the outboard side of the upper and lower switch housing over the flanges on the end of the grip, then loosely fasten the two screws. 6. Position the clutch hand lever assembly inboard of the switch housing assembly, engaging the tab on the lower switch housing in the groove at the bottom of the clutch lever bracket. 7. Align the holes in the handlebar clamp with those in the clutch lever bracket, and loosely fasten the two screws with flat washers. Adjust the switch housing and clutch hand control position for rider comfort. 8. Using a T27 TORX®drive head, tighten first the upper, then the lower handlebar clamp screws to 60-80 in-lbs (6.8-9.0 Nm). 9. Using a T25 TORX®drive head, tighten first the lower, then the upper switch housing screws to 35-45 in-lbs (4.0-5.1 Nm). Remove and Install the Right Grip 1. Refer to the RIGHTHANDLEBARSWITCH section of the service manual for removal of the switch housing assembly. This is necessary to access the throttle cables. 2. Refer to the THROTTLECONTROL section of the service manual to disconnect the throttle cables and remove the existing right grip/throttle sleeve assembly. After removal, make sure that the handlebar end is clean and smooth. 3. Follow instructions in the service manual to install the new right grip/throttle sleeve to the handlebar and connect the throttle cables. 4. Verify that the right grip/throttle sleeve rotates and returns freely and does not bind on the handlebar or switch housing.

Honda VTX 1300 Trike Conversion Installation Manual

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 27-10-2010

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Removal of Original Parts Secure and raise the motorcycle 9 to 10 inches using a quality motorcycle lift. Remove the following from the vehicle. See OEM manual for detailed instructions. Items to be retained for reinstallation after modification are noted. · Rider’s Seat (to be re-installed without modification) · Passenger Seat (to be reinstalled without modification) NOTE: OEM front and rear seat mounting bolts and brackets to be retained and reused. · Left and right passenger foot rests. (to be re-installed later). · Mufflers (to be re-installed and relocated with minor modification) · Rear Fender (complete w/ sub frame and all attaching parts) · Swing Arm, Drive Shaft and Rear Wheel (complete w/ all attaching parts) · Rear brake Line to hard line in front of the Swing Arm. Core Return There are NO core return parts for this model. Honda VTX 1300 TRIKE CONVERSION CHAMPION TRIKES Installation Manual Page 7 of 16 Revision 2 3 Installation of Champion Trike Conversion Kit 3.1 Modify Frame and Passenger Footrests. a. Cut and remove passenger foot rest mount from OEM frame on both sides (left hand side picture shown) . Figure 1 b. Clean cut frame and paint black. c. Remove and secure Charcoal Canister. d. Cut and remove charcoal canister frame bracket. Figure 2 e. Clean cut frame and paint black

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1996+ HARLEY DAVIDSON FLH INNER AND OUTTER FAIRING MOUNT FOR HONDA VTX 1300 installation

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 09-04-2012

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This mount was made to attach the HD FLH assembled fairing to the 4 fork mounting points on the VTX 1300 using the Memphis Shades mounts. This allows use of the MS allen wrench to quickly remove the fairing if needed. You will have to make or buy a headlight extension. Has to be done first. I used a 5″ x 5″ x .5″ piece of aluminum stock and made one to bump the headlight out 4″. There will be some trimming and relocating of brackets. And you’ll have to buy longer bolts to mount everything correctly. Get the headlight squared away first, then do the fairing. Take a length of 1″ aluminum angle stock and cut two 17″ pieces from it. These will be the uprights for the “H” brace. Measure 5.5″ from the bottom of one piece and center punch for a hole. Drill a large enough hole to slip over the MS mounting hardware on the forks. Start at about ½” bit and notch out as necessary. Center of this hole has to be 5.5″ from the absolute bottom of the angle iron. In the same location, drill out another notch for the bottom mounting point. A drill press is handy for these modifications and you can hog out the mounting notches with a file, dremmel, etc., until they fit. Do the same for the other length of 1″ angle stock but make sure it is a mirror image of the first one. Test fit these by mounting them to the MS fork brackets using the MS bracket hardware. Bottom notch goes in first, then the top notch. I epoxied the back “nuts” of the mounting hardware to the fork mounting brackets. It keeps it in place when you’re taking the fairing on and off the bike. On the top mounting points, I epoxied a washer with one side ground flat to the bolt’s mounting ferule. This allowed better contact between the H brace and the fork mounting bracket. Didn’t want that fairing falling off. Adjust as necessary and after the test fit, remove.

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