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TOYOTA LANDCRUISER 100 VXR FULL SPECS AUTOMATIC

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Filed Under (Toyota Manuals) by admin on 11-06-2011

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The car body is protected with 6mm Armox 500T ballistic steel, cut and shaped to fit the cabin interior. Armox 500T is also used for overlap and door edges. Floor section is protected with 4mm. Armox T500. Roof section is protected FB6 45° impact angle with 4mm Armox T500. Gasoline tank is protected with 4mm ARMOX 500T. Weight armouring is calculated to aprx. 1.000 kgs. As option, the vertical sides of the car cabin can be covered with an add-on spall-liner with 8×0,30 layers of Aramid Panels, as spall liner, to meet IED’s and fragments (see option section)

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FLUID SPECS MODEL- YEAR 1994- 2005 FOR TOYOTA CAMRY, COROLLA AND TACOMA

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Filed Under (Toyota Manuals) by admin on 17-09-2011

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Toyota Genuine Motor Oil 5W-30 Toyota Genuine Motor Oil 10W-30 Ethylene-Glycol Antifreeze Toyota Long Life Coolant Toyota Super Long Life Coolant 00272-SLLC2 Hypoid API GL-5 75W-90 Gear Lube T-IV Transmission Fluid ATF WS Transmission Fluid 08885-80306 Good brand of 80W-90 gear lube Hypoid API GL-5 80W-90 Gear Lube Castle V160 Gear Lube Sequential Manual Transmission Fluid 08885-01306 08886-02206 Synthetic Hypoid API GL-5 75W-140 Gear Lube Limited Slip Gear Oil

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Kawasaki ZX6R/ RR 2003-2004 Frame Slider Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 25-10-2010

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1. Locate and remove right engine stud. Tip: Both main engine studs on the ZX6R tend to be very tight from the factory, use a stubby socket to remove stud. Make sure you have good engagement or the head of the bolt can strip. 2. Mount Right side frame slider using 99-HB-SH101250110 Socket Cap 10 X 1.25 X 110 Main Engine Stud and torque down to OEM torque specs. 3. Remove the left side OEM motor mount bolt. 4. Using the 10 X 1.25 X 110 Bolt supplied in the kit: Use the 99-SP-750-4200-L Left Side Bell Type Spacer Black Anodized 5. The small end of the (99-SP-750-4200-L Left Side Bell Type Spacer Black Anodized) goes against the left side of the frame. The longer of the two frame sliders goes on top of the spacer. Using the 10 X 1.25 X 110 Socket Cap mount and torque down to OEM specs

Kawasaki KFX450 Slip On INSTALLATION AND REMOVAL INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 25-10-2010

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Kit includes 1 Mid pipe 1 Silencer 1 Silencer clamp 1 8×20 bolt 1 quiet core Installation instructions Save your stock parts. Some may be used for installation of new pipe! 1. Remove your stock silencer leaving the stock head pipe. 2. install mid pipe sliding it over the end of the stock head pipe. 3. place the Silencer onto the mid pipe. Make sure the clamps are in correct position. Loosely mount the silencer w/ the provided 8×20 bolts. 4. Tighten the silencer bolt (torque to manufactures specs). 5. Make sure the clamps are tightened to the silencer. 6. Install LTE’s Gen 3 TFI that is programmed for optimum performance w/ no tuning. 7. After running this unit for the first 15-20 minutes allow the system to cool and re-check the system for any loose bolts or nuts. It is also good to check the spark plug to see that you are not running to lean or rich. NOTE: TFI Gen 3 specs are for sea level with the airbox lid removed for optimum performance. Check your packing after 20hrs of riding for optimum power and lowest db levels. It is your responsibility to read and understand these instructions.

Yamaha R1 2007-2008 Frame Slider Installation

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 01-01-2012

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Installation Steps: 1. Remove left and right body panels. 2. Remove the left side engine stud. Mount the left side offset using 99-HB-SH10125080 Socket Cap 10 X 1.25 X 80 Main Engine Stud. Tip: Only tighten enough so you can still move the offset by hand. Loosely mount the left side body panel. Adjust the offset so the frame slider when mounted will clear the bodywork. There is also a groove cut in the offset, this is so the body can clear the offset. 3. With the offset in the correct position remove body and torque down to OEM torque specs. 4. Using one drop of blue thread locker mount the left side puck to the offset with 99-HB- SH10150045 Socket Cap 10 X 1.5 X 45 (Holds puck to offset). Torque down to 30 to 32 foot lbs. 5. Remove the right side engine stud. Mount the right side offset using 99-HB-SH10125080 Socket Cap 10 X 1.25 X 80 Main Engine Stud. Tip: Only tighten enough so you can still move the offset by hand. Loosely mount the right side body panel. Adjust the offset so the frame slider when mounted will clear the bodywork. There is also a groove cut in the offset, this is so the body can clear the offset. 6. With the offset in the correct position remove body and torque down to OEM torque specs. 7. Using one drop of blue thread locker mount the right side puck to the offset with 99-HB- SH10150045 Socket Cap 10 X 1.5 X 45 (Holds puck to offset). Torque down to 30 to 32 foot lbs. 8. Mount left and right bodywork

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2010 CSR Naked 125 Engine and transmission Chassis, suspension, brakes and wheels

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Filed Under (CSR) by admin on 27-10-2010

Model: CSR Naked 125 Year: 2010 Category: Naked bike Rating: Price as new (MSRP): Euro 2199. Prices depend on country, taxes, accessories, etc. Engine and transmission Displacement: 124.80 ccm (7.62 cubic inches) Engine type: Single cylinder, four-stroke Fuel system: Carburettor Cooling system: Liquid Transmission type, final drive: Chain Chassis, suspension, brakes and wheels Frame type: Steel Front tyre dimensions: 90/90-13 Rear tyre dimensions: 130/90-15 Front brakes: Single disc Rear akes: Single disc Physical measures and capacities Dry weight: 161.0 kg (354.9 pounds) Weight incl. oil, gas, etc: 179.0 kg (394.6 pounds) Overall height: 1,085 mm (42.7 inches) Overall length: 2,110 mm (83.1 inches) Overall width: 650 mm (25.6 inches) Fuel capacity: 18.00 litres (4.76 gallons) Other specifications nStarter: Electric Color options: Black, silver Comments: Also called NKT 125. Spanish brand. Further information Parts and accessories Check out parts and accessories from our partners.nAsk questions Join the 10 CSR Naked 125 discussion group. Insurance, loans, tests Check out insurance here. Search the web for dealers, loan costs, tests, customizing, etc. Related bikes List related bikes for comparison of specs

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2000-2002 Aprilia Falco INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Aprilia) by admin on 26-10-2010

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1) It is a good idea to use Blue Loc-tite on all bolts you are about to remove and replace. 2) This kit has extremely close tolerances and in order for all the parts to clear the triple clamp and gas tank, you will probably have to loosen and align most of the associated bolts. We have tried very hard to make this as compact as possible but we know the factory varies quite a bit from bike to bike. Be patient, the results are worth it. 3) Remove the large 14mm Allen nut and washer that holds your triple clamp on. You will not re-use either part. 4) Install the new “Triple clamp damper mount” Part # 22-2919-00 into the recess area where the stock, Allen-head bolt was sitting. There is a machined recess or washer on the bottom of our mount to match the recess on your triple clamp. The 2 knubs that hang downward, should match the rear contour of your triple clamp precisely. Use loc-tite and retighten the 14mm Allen nut, without any washer, to your factory specs, usually a minimum of 35 ft lbs. and a maximum of 85 ft.lbs. 5) Grease the tower pin and drop it in the tower pin hole portion of the frame bracket. The tower pin is designed to “float” and requires no retaining devices. Keep the tower pin lightly greased! 6) Remove both front fuel-tank retaining bolts and washers. You will use the longer bolts provided in our kit. 7) Install the frame bracket (part #22-8636-00) that mounts to your front (2) tank bolts holes. Make sure it does not make contact with the triple clamp. We’ve machined a recess on one side of this bracket to allow for extra clearance (see photo below). The casting ridge on the back of your triple clamp can vary from bike to bike, which might require some slight filing of that ridged seam to avoid contact with our frame bracket. 8) Now check to be sure the tower pin is not abrazing the tank. The tank mounts are adjustable, try to position the tank so nothing is touching. In some rare cases you might have to elongate the rear tank mounting brackets to allow clearance at the front. Use Loc-tite on the longer Allen bolts supplied and tighten the frame bracket 9) Install the stabilizer using the (2) 6×20 Allens with the slot in the link arm matching the tower pin. 10) Since the tank is rubber mounted, you want to be sure it won’t push forward and rub the frame bracket. After riding the first time, be sure the tank has not shoved forward by your body making contact with it. Remember, under heavy braking your entire body weight is pushing the tank forward. Until you have verified sufficient clearance between the tank and the tower pin, it might be smart to put something between the tank and tower pin to protect the tank. 11) Read your damper manual for initial settings on the controls. The damper is infinitely adjustable and totally up to the user to find their preference. Start with softer (counter clockwise) settings. Normally where we set the unit, at 8 clicks out on the base valve, is a good starting point.

2000-2002 Aprilia Mille INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Aprilia) by admin on 26-10-2010

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1) It is a good idea to use Blue Loc-tite on all bolts you are about to remove and replace. 2) This kit has extremely close tolerances and in order for all the parts to clear the triple clamp and gas tank, you will probably have to loosen and align most of the associated bolts. We have tried very hard to make this as compact as possible but we know the factory tolerances vary from bike to bike. Be patient, the results are worth it. 3) Remove both front fuel-tank retaining bolts. You will use the longer bolts provided in our kit. 4) Install the frame bracket (part #22-6036-03) that mounts to your front (2) tank bolts holes. The frame bracket sits on top of the stock tank spacers. The frame bracket is offset. This means it fits correctly only one way, with the offset toward the triple clamp, part numbers facing forward, (see photo below). Due to the tight clearances on this model you’ll want to be sure the frame bracket does not make contact with the tank itself. It’s easier to start the tank bolts if you lift up on the tank slightly, while starting the new bolts into their threaded hole. Tighten the new tank bolts to 6 ft lbs. and use Loc-tite. 5) Remove the large 14mm Allen nut and washer that holds your triple clamp on. You will not re-use either one. 6) Install the new “Triple clamp damper mount” Part # 22-2925-00 into the recess area where the stock Allen head bolt was sitting. There is a machined recess or built-in-washer on the bottom of our mount to match the recess on your triple clamp. The 2 nubs that hang down, should match the rear contour of your triple clamp precisely. Use loc-tite and retighten the new 14mm Allen nut provided to your factory torque specs, usually a minimum of 35 ft lbs. and maximum of 85 ft. lbs. Do not use the stock washer that was under the original 14mm nut. 7) Grease the tower pin and drop it in the tower pin hole portion of the frame bracket. The tower pin is designed to “float” and requires no retaining devices. Keep the tower pin lightly greased! It should not touch the gas tank on the bottom side. 8) Install the stabilizer using the (2) 6×20 Allens with the slot in the link arm matching the tower pin. 9) Since the tank is rubber mounted at the rear, you want to be sure it won’t push forward and rub the frame bracket. After riding the first time, be sure the tank has not shoved forward by your body making contact with it. Remember, under heavy braking your entire body weight is pushing the tank forward. Until you have verified sufficient clearance between the tank and the tower pin, it might be smart to put something between the tank and tower pin to protect the tank. 10) Read your damper manual for initial settings on the controls. The damper is infinitely adjustable and totally up to the user to find their preference. Start with softer (counter clockwise) settings. Normally where we set the unit, at 8 clicks out on the base valve, is a good starting point.

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S&S Connecting Rods Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (S&S) by admin on 29-10-2010

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1. Female rod crankpin end to mainshaft nuts – .030″ minimum clearance recommended. A. Install sprocket shaft and crankpin in driveside flywheel. Snug nuts only. Do not torque to final specs. B. Slide connecting rods and bearings over crankpin. C. Rotate rods on crankpin, and observe clearance between rod and sprocket shaft nut. D. If additional clearance is needed, remove material from sprocket shaft nut. Do not remove material from connecting rod. E. Repeat procedure for camside flywheel and pinion shaft. 2. Female rod crankpin end to inner flywheel rim – .060″ clearance recommended. A. While checking female rod to mainshaft clearance, observe clearance between crankpin end of female rod and rim of both flywheels. B. If additional clearance is required, remove material from flywheel at point of contact. Do not remove material from connecting rod. 3. Wristpin end of both female and male rods to flywheel edge -.060″ minimum clearance recommended. A. While checking female rod to mainshaft clearance, observe clearance between wristpin end of both rods and rim of both flywheels. B. If additional clearance is required, remove material from flywheel at point of contact. Do not remove material from connecting rod. 4. Wristpin end to crankcase and cylinder – .060″ is recommended in these areas. A. With the camside flywheel and rods mocked up, install the assembly in the right crankcase half with pistons (less rings) and cylinders in place. B. Rotate flywheel through one full revolution and check for rod to crankcase and cylinder spigot contact on both the front and rear of each cylinder. C. File or grind crankcase or cylinder spigot as needed to achieve .060″ clearance. Do not remove morematerial than needed. D. Repeat for left crankcase half. NOTE: Whenever clearancing is performed in any of these areas, do not remove any material from the connecting rods as clearancing on the rods may unnecessarily weaken them. Make adjustments to the point of contact on the mainshaft nut, flywheel rim, crankcase, cylinder spigot, etc. Connecting rods weakened by clearancing may fail causing serious engine damage.

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HARLEY DAVIDSON RONT & REAR HEADPIPE AND HEATSHIELDS INSTALLATION

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 10-11-2010

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1. Remove both left and right saddlebags and set them aside. 2. Remove the right side floorboard from the frame and set aside. 3. Unplug the O 2 sensors on front and rear headpipes from motorcycle wire harnesses. 4. Remove the stock exhaust system. It may be necessary to lubricate the slip joints of the exhaust with WD-40 or similar lubricant to aid in disassembly. The stock muffler slide hangers may be left in place in the rubber mounts for later reinstallation of the mufflers. 5. Remove the stock rear headpipe support-mounting bracket by removing the two starter mounting bolts, this bracket will not be reused. Note: Use caution when removing the bolts so that any tools used do not come in contact with the positive post on the starter. Install the Cobra supplied, exhaust support-mounting bracket, see Figure 1. 6. Remove the stock exhaust flanges, retaining rings and O 2 sensors from the stock headpipes and headpipe support clamp from the front headpipe. Remove the new front headpipe from packaging and install the stock flange, retaining rings and O 2 sensor on to the pipe. 7. On the front headpipe slide the stock headpipe support clamp over it. Install the front headpipe on the motorcycle using the stock flange nuts to secure it to the exhaust port studs, but do not tighten at this time. Slide the headpipe support clamp forward on the headpipe and over the stock exhaust mount on the right side engine case, make sure the clamp’s rectangular hole is on top and the flat part of the clamp is downward, see Figure 2. Install the carriage bolt and nut to secure the tube clamp but do not tighten at this time. 8. Reinstall the muffler onto the front headpipe using one muffler slip clamp. Reinsert two stock 5/16- inch bolts into rear muffler mount, tighten to factory torque specs, do not tighten front muffler slip clamp at this time. (NOTE: On some models equipped with saddlebags the bag rail may need to be adjusted outward to allow proper clearance between muffler body and swing arm / axle nut.) 9. Tighten front headpipe flange nuts then headpipe support clamp to factory torque specifications. 10. Remove front heatshield and hose clamps from packaging. Unscrew the hose clamps and feed the tail end of the clamps through the clips on the inside of the heatshield from the bottom, so the screws are facing toward the bottom and accessible with a screw driver once the heatshield is installed. Install the heatshield over the front headpipe. (Hint: Spread the hose clamps apart slightly to make it easier to slide them over the muffler assembly and headpipes.) Align heatshield with headpipe and snug clamps but do not tighten .

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