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Harley-Davidson touring bikes WHEELDOCK EZ-UP Center Stand Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 18-04-2012

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Unlike other center stands, the WHEELDOCK EZ UP stand requires very little effort to operate and can usually be done while still on the bike by simply pushing down on the foot lever with your left foot. Once you feel both feet of the center stand in contact with the ground, transfer your weight up off of the seat and onto the foot lever of the center stand. The stand should rotate under the bike and a bit forward lifting the bike quite easily. CAUTION: Never attempt to raise the bike with a passenger on board, as you will damage the foot lever. You can also raise the bike on the center stand by using the following traditional method: Place the bike on the side stand and step off to the side. From the left side of the bike, push the bike up to the vertical position and press down on the foot lever until both feet of the stand are in contact with the ground. Now apply weight to the foot lever while lifting up on the bike. For cleaning the rear wheel: first place a ½-inch piece of plywood under the stand and use this (beside the bike) method for placing the bike up on the plywood spacer; this will allow the wheel to rotate freely for cleaning. Do not try this while on the bike, as it will require too much foot pressure on the lever. You now have two options to get the bike off of the stand: You can simply rock the bike forward, or put the bike in gear and drive off in most cases as long as you are parked on a flat, level surface. Tips for solving common problems: If you have the correct height stand and you still have difficulty getting the bike up on the stand check the following: the bike must be in neutral, the wheel should be straight forward and not cocked, do not hold the front brake lever and make sure you have 15 lb or more air pressure in the rear suspension. These are the most common problems we encounter.

Harley-Davidson The WHEELDOCK EZ-UP Center Stand Installation MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 21-03-2012

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Unlike other center stands, the WHEELDOCK EZ UP stand requires very little effort to operate and can usually be done while still on the bike by simply pushing down on the foot lever with your left foot. Once you feel both feet of the center stand in contact with the ground, transfer your weight up off of the seat and onto the foot lever of the center stand. The stand should rotate under the bike and a bit forward lifting the bike quite easily. CAUTION: Never attempt to raise the bike with a passenger on board, as you will damage the foot lever. You can also raise the bike on the center stand by using the following traditional method: Place the bike on the side stand and step off to the side. From the left side of the bike, push the bike up to the vertical position and press down on the foot lever until both feet of the stand are in contact with the ground. Now apply weight to the foot lever while lifting up on the bike. For cleaning the rear wheel: first place a ½-inch piece of plywood under the stand and use this (beside the bike) method for placing the bike up on the plywood spacer; this will allow the wheel to rotate freely for cleaning. Do not try this while on the bike, as it will require too much foot pressure on the lever. You now have two options to get the bike off of the stand: You can simply rock the bike forward, or put the bike in gear and drive off in most cases as long as you are parked on a flat, level surface. Tips for solving common questions: If you have the correct height stand and you still have difficulty getting the bike up on the stand check the following: the bike must be in neutral, the wheel should be straight forward and not cocked, do not hold the front brake lever and make sure you have 15 lb or more air pressure in the rear suspension. These are the most common problems we encounter

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240 Sport Bike Swingarm Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 02-12-2010

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Motorcycles can be dangerous if not properly maintained and ridden safely. RC Components has no control over the usage of any of its parts. RC Components expects its customers to exercise good judgment as to the proper selection, installation, use, and maintenance of any parts. RC Components assumes no responsibility for damage or injury of any kind because of the misuse or improper application of any parts in any way by any person. RC Components expects the end user to exercise good judgment. • Before installing this kit, read through these directions completely. This will familiarize you with the way in which the parts fit together and the tools needed to complete the job. • Before performing any installation steps, disconnect the motorcycle’s battery to eliminate any possibility of electrical damage or personal injury due to a short circuit. Part Number: NSTSB240 Page 2 of 12 Materials Needed: • Hardware Kit. Kit includes (See picture below): 04-05 GSXR750-600 & 03-04 GSXR1000 Kit Inboard Brake Kit Part Number: INSTSB240 Page 3 of 12 04-05 GSXR750-600 & 03-04 GSXR1000 Kit for Stock Caliper 08 Busa Kit for Inboard Brake Part Number: INSTSB240 Page 4 of 12 05-06 GSXR 1000 Kit for Inboard Brake
Part Number: INSTSB240 Page 5 of 12 05-06 GSXR1000 Kit for Stock Caliper 99-07 Busa Kit for Inboard Brake
Part Number: INSTSB240 Page 6 of 12 99-07 Busa Kit for Stock Caliper Tools Needed: • Bike Specific Service Manual (Refer to manual for all torque specs and tools that are not specified by RC Components.) • Assorted hand tools, metric and standard sockets and wrenches. • Hoist or other means to lift bike. • Torque wrench • Loctite, and anti-seize • Chain breaker • Bike specific sockets are required for some bikes. (Refer to factory service manual). • Die grinder (for chain to frame clearance on some models) Installation Instructions 1.) Stock Component Removal To begin installing this kit it is necessary to raise the rear end of the bike using a suitable hoist. Be sure to keep the bike centered on the front wheel to keep the bike from tipping over. Once you have the bike lifted and properly secured, begin with the removal of the following stock components ( For detailed information on the removal of these parts, please consult your factory manual) : 1.) Muffler or mufflers 2.) Left side and lower body panels 3.) Voltage regulator (08 model only) 4.) Front sprocket cover 5.) Front sprocket 6.) Chain

The New Kawasaki ZX-6R Trading in gets easier and easier

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 18-02-2011

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didn’t go to my local Kawasaki shop expecting to trade in the 2004 636 I’d been happily riding. I honestly didn’t expect there to be anything on the floor that would motivate me to bring the bike in. Some of you reading this may be able to relate to what I am saying, the day you don’t look for something is the day that you find exactly what you didn’t know you need. That was the day I decided I needed to take home the new ZX-6R. The reworking of the new ZX-6R is more than just about looking good. According to KMC the engine has been redesigned from the crankcase up for the first time in ten years. Racing technology built into the new bike is a close-ratio cassette transmission that can be removed without the needing to split the main crankcases in case you needed to make repairs or adjustments at the track. They also tell us that the fuel injection system has shorter throttle bodies with a smaller diameter bore which claim to give this new smaller sized engine more torque in the mid-range. It also comes with a GPS – Gear Position Sensor. The new ZX-6R comes stock with a slipper clutch which is one difference between the 2004 and 2007. My 2004′s rear wheel would hop if I geared down before a corner and my engine rpms were too high. The slipper clutch allows quicker downshifts. To experience the gains of a slipper clutch you don’t have to buy a 2007 Kawasaki – it was introduced to the 636 in 2005. A quick glance at the exhaust might leave the impression that the ZX-6R comes stock with stacked twin small diameter exhaust cans but if you look closely you will see it is a single oval pipe with a shotgun styled end cap. The titanium pipe has the pre-chamber and catalyser located below the engine to keep the weight on the bike low and centered and the temperature of the under seat silencer reduced. Looking at the new Kawasaki with its fairing removed, I wonder how much more it would have cost the consumer to have an exhaust system that not only works wonders but would be worth showing off? Even if some of the systems of the new 600 look better hidden by plastic the bike does have a cohesive look and every year the fit and finish of Kawasaki’s bikes seem to get better. You can look at this bike from almost any angle and nothing jumps out at you – unless you are on the right side of the bike looking at the rear brake reservoir. It seems odd to me that they would leave the rear brake reservoir exposed. Another design feature of the smooth body of the 2007 ZX-6R is the lack of tie down points for any luggage. It can be argued that this is a bike intended for Sunday morning canyon rides or track days on weekends but if you want to take the 600 out for a weekend away then there is aftermarket solution. Ventura Racks allow you go on vacation with your bike. A Ventura Rack provides you with a frame that you attach to your bike that you can secure luggage to. There is no drilling of body work and the Ventura rack I got fit onto the bike perfectly the first try. One of the things I really like about the Ventura Rack is that you can easily attach bags that you may already have or you have the option of buying the Ventura luggage system. Just give yourself time before a motorcycle trip to pack

Triumph Bonneville America And Speedmaster The Freak Installation Instructions and Parts List

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Filed Under (Triumph) by admin on 29-10-2010

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INSTALLATION In order to install The Freak, the factory air-box must be removed. Because of it’s design, the factory air-box is not an item that is easily removed. There are several parts that must be removed in order to get the air-box out of the bike in one piece. We recommend using the following method to remove your air box without having to cut it into smaller pieces in order to get it out of the frame. 1. PARTS REMOVAL In order to gain access to the air-box, it is necessary to remove certain parts of the motorcycle to gain access to the air-box area of the frame. Removing the following parts should be the first steps you take. A. Seats – Remove both seats starting with the passenger pillion, if applicable. B. Side cover and grommets – Remove the plastic side cover on the right side (throttle side) of your motorcycle. This is the faux oil-tank cover that has the name of your bike on it. Underneath the side cover there are three rubber grommets (1 on the frame tab, and two on the air-box) that support the side cover. Remove the two that are on the air-box and leave the one on the frame. You will attach the two that you removed to the right side bracket in Section 4C . C. Faux air filter covers – On the right side of the bike, remove the chrome faux air filter covers, by removing the one allen head screw that holds it onto the air-box. On the left hand side (clutch side) remove the faux air filter cover in the same manner, you removed the one on the right. D. Plastic shrouds – on the left side, remove the black plastic air-box shroud, by removing the two allen head screws holding it in place. Then remove the plastic shroud covering your fuse box (this is the piece that surrounds your ignition terminal next to the battery). E. Battery – Remove the battery by unscrewing the torx-head bolt that holds the chrome bracket in place. Remove the chrome bracket and the black plastic cap. Tilt the battery out of the box with the top towards you. Disconnect both battery terminal connectors, negative (-) terminal first. Remove the battery. F. Battery box – Remove the two bolts that hold the battery box to the frame. Pull the battery box out as far as you can, then remove the the ignition terminal from the battery box, by removing the two allen screws that hold it in place from the back. Next, remove the fuse box from the battery box, by pushing it out from the back. It is not necessary to disconnect any of the wiring going to the fuse box, or the ignition terminal. G. Rear fender – Remove the rear fender, by first disconnecting the taillight wires. Follow the wires from the tail light assembly on the inside of the rear fender (left side) towards the front of the bike until you come to the box connector. Disconnect the tail light wires at this connector, being careful not to break it. Once the wiring is disconnected, remove the 6 bolts that hold it to the struts. Have someone hold the fender for you while you are removing all of the bolts so that it does not drop once the bolts are removed. Slide the fender out the rear of the bike. 2. PREPARE THE MOTORCYCLE FOR AIR-BOX REMOVAL To remove the factory air-box without damaging it, it is necessary to lift the bike. We recommend the use of a multi-position ATV/motorcycle jack with a minimum lift height of 10″. A. Setting up the lift – Place the lift under your bike and secure your bike to the lift according to the lift manufacturer’s instructions. B. Raise slightly – Lift the motorcycle to the point where the rear springs are without tension, but NOT to where the rear tire is off the ground. C. Remove the rear springs – Take off each of the rear springs by removing the the two bolts on each spring. Once all the bolts are removed gently pull the springs out off of the studs. If they do not pull off easily, you can raise or lower the bike slightly with the lift to ease tension on the spring. Remember, you should not have the rear tire off the ground at this point. The bike should only be raised enough to relax the tension in the springs. D. Remove the mufflers – Remove the mufflers by loosening the clamp at the exhaust header, and by removing the rear foot peg hangers. If the mufflers are not removed, they can become damaged by the axles in Section 2H . E. Disconnect the carburetors – With a small flathead screwdriver, pull the retainer springs out of the channel of the carburetor intake tubes (the two large black tubes coming from the air box into the back of each carburetor), and simply push them towards the air box off of the carbs

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2006 King Cobra Service Procedure

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Filed Under (Cobra) by admin on 10-11-2010

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Cobra CX50 SR is a close-tolerance high performance machine and break- in time is very important for maximum life and performance. The CX50 SR can be ridden hard after the first ½ hour break-in time but it is recommended that no adjustments are made to the carburetion or suspension until the full 8 hours of bike break-in has elapsed. Also, after the engine, transmission, and drive train have been broken-in for the full 8 hours, the bike will be faster! Use a fuel / oil mixture of 32:1 for the full 8 hour break-in period. Be sure to use high-octane pump gas, with Cobra’s specially formulated Cobra Venom 2-cycle Race Oil . (Part # MCMUOL02) CAUTION: Failure to use proper fuel, oil, or fuel/oil mixture may result in premature engine wear or damage to the machine. Adhering to the following break-in schedule will result in long lasting high performance machine. • Start bike on stand • First 5 minute period, operate the bike on the stand with a combination of idle and high RPM operation. (avoid prolonged high RPM but spin the rear wheel good at least once or twice per minute) • Allow bike to cool • Ride for 15 minutes maximum (avoid prolonged high RPM operation and avoid abusing the clutch with throttle blipping. • Cool and inspect bike for loose fasteners. • Next ½ hour of operation, avoid prolonged operation at Wide Open Throttle. • After 1 hour of operation o Check for loose bolts and nuts on the bike and retighten as necessary (proper toque values are listed under Specifications). o Clean the carburetor bowl. o Change the transmission / clutch lubricant. • After 8 hours of operation o Change the fork oil. o Have a Certified Cobra Mechanic change the shock oil. • Your bike is now ready for the highest level of competition! NOTE: During break-in the bike will likely lose some engine coolant through the radiator overflow hose. Losing up to 4 oz (120 ml, ½ cup) is normal. Proper coolant level will cover the top of the radiator cores. Removing the radiator cap and looking inside is the only way to check the coolant level. 8
Never open the radiator cap of a machine that has a hot or warm engine or one that has recently been ridden. Burning and scalding could occur. CAUTION: It is important that the radiator cap is installed correctly and completely otherwise engine damage could occur. Starting Procedure Before starting the machine inspect the following: • Check for proper tire pressure in both tires. • Observe the chain tension and adjust if necessary. • Observe the coolant level and fill if necessary. • Verify that the chain rollers and sliders do not have improper wear. • Verify that the handlebars are tight. • Check the throttle for smooth operation and that it ‘clacks’ shut properly. • Check for loose bolts and nuts, and re-torque as necessary. • Verify that the air filter is clean and properly saturated with oil. • Insure that the fuel tank contains an adequate volume of fuel / oil mixture to complete the distance required. (High octane pump gas with Cobra’s specially formulated Cobra Venom 2-cycle Race Oil ) • Turn the fuel on by rotating the fuel petcock knob to the vertically downward position (reserve position is horizontally forward) CAUTION: For best results from your Cobra Motorcycle use only the recommended fuels. Testing has shown that most ‘race’ fuels actually degrade performance. Always wear a helmet and other protective riding gear. When your pre-ride inspection is complete the bike may be started. For a cold engine follow this procedure. 1. Place the motorcycle on a stand of sufficient strength that positions the motorcycle in a level upright position with the rear wheel off the ground. 2. Pull up the choke knob and turn it to lock it. 3. Kick start the engine. 4. Rev the engine in short spurts, turning the throttle no more than 1/4 open until the engine will run without the choke.

AJS Big-end replacement instructions

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Filed Under (AJS) by admin on 31-10-2010

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Above: Once the first wheel is off, the pin can be removed in the vice using a drift and spacer. Right: Out with the old; in with the new. Big-end track renewal is a two- in-one operation. Left: No wonder the original bearing was making let-me-out noises! New big end assemblies come dipped in a protective plastic coating. Below: A smear of grease stops the new rollers squirting all over the place. Cotton tape holds them tight to the pin, until the big end is in position. Below. Ensure that the new pin is absolutely square before you attempt to press it in. Mating faces must be operating theatre clean. one out of the con-rod as you fit it. A short piece of square-ended pipe makes a spacer, but take great care that the track goes in square. Soft jaws in the vice prevent damage. The new bearing will usually be grease packed, which helps to stick uncaged rollers onto the inner track. Wrap a length of tape around, pulling it out as you drop the big end eye over. Get the rod the right way round! Check the fit, because the con-rod can occasionally squeeze a new outer race so that it nips the rollers. Lapping it in is the cure, but that’s not within the scope of this article. (Universal journalists’ copout). Press up the second flywheel, using a set square to get the alignment about right, and nip up the nut. The scrap box supplied materials for my truing jig. Two pairs of small roller bearings support the mainshafts, and one support post is adjustable to allow for different crank widths and shaft diameters. For ease and accuracy, a dial gauge wins every time, and if you compare it to the cost of employing an expert, you’ll have no difficulty in justifying the expense. Wedge the con-rod between

Aprilia Big Bore Kit 102mm Mounting And Installation instructions

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Filed Under (Aprilia) by admin on 26-10-2010

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The installation takes place as usual. Change the cylinder and pistons. The engine must be brought in at least 500 Km!! Naturally the mapping must be adapted for this conversion! Use a Power Commander or a Rapid Bike Modul and adjust it correctly on a Dyno Stand. The compression ratio is as standard, 12,5:1, like a stock bike! Therefore it is not 100% necessary to change the spark plugs thermal value or the octan value. But if you use your bike for racing then you should go for different spark plugs (we use NGK DCPR9EVX spark plugs) and 98 octan fuel. For best performance use our Racing air filter system (models till my 2003 item # a123, a124, a125. For models up from my 2004 item # a121a). This systems increases the air flow which is a very good effect on all Aprilia models and particularly together with the Big Bore Kit

HARLEY DAVIDSON EFI SCREAMIN' EAGLE BIG BORE EFI STAGE 2 KIT INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 29-01-2011

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INSTALLATION Installation of this kit is divided into six steps: 1. Big-Bore Cylinder and Piston Conversion 2. High Performance Camshafts 3. High Performance Clutch Diaphragm Spring 4. High Performance Air Cleaner 5. Calibrate the ECM 6. Exhaust NOTES This Big-Bore Stage 2 kit is intended for High Performance applications only. This engine-related performance part is legal for sale or use in California on pollution-controlled motor vehicles. Engine-related performance parts are intended for the experienced rider only. -J04173 1 of 5 The air cleaner contained in these kits is designed to perform with these kits only. Any other combination of components is not confirmed to be legal for street use. The Product Information Label contained in this kit is required in the state of California only. This label is required to aid in passing the California Smog Check Program. Place the Product Information Label on the right side of the frame, directly beneath the VIN sticker. Do not place the label on motorcycles other than those specified in the Instruction Sheet. Gaskets provided in the 1690 conversion kit eliminate the need for original head gasket O-rings. For this reason, DO NOT install the Original Equipment (OE) O-rings (Part Number 11273) to the top of cylinder dowels, or severe engine damage may occur. Big-Bore Cylinder and Piston Conversion NOTE Installation of this kit requires removal of the cylinder heads, cylinders and pistons. Refer to Section 3, ENGINE: STRIPPING MOTORCYCLE FOR SERVICE and TOP END OVERHAUL of the applicable Service Manual for instructions. High Performance Camshafts NOTE Installation of this kit requires removal and re-installation of the cam support plate. Refer to Section 3, ENGINE: BOTTOM END Cam Support Plate, Removal and Disassembly/Assembly (Camshaft, Camshaft Bearings) of the applicable Service Manual for instructions. Measuring Piston-to-Valve Clearance After installing non-stock cams, check piston-to-valve clear- ance. 1. Apply 1/8-inch (3 mm) layer of clay to crowns of pistons in areas where valves meet pistons. 2. Refer to the appropriate Service Manual and assemble the heads and valve train, and tighten cylinder studs to torque specified. 3. Turn engine through two complete revolutions by hand. 4. Remove heads and measure clay at its thinnest point. NOTE Clay must measure 0.080 inch (2.03 mm) at its thinnest point. If this measurement does not meet minimum thickness, depth of valve notches must be increased. The depth of the notches must not exceed 0.135 inch (3.43 mm). Measuring Valve-to-Valve Clearance NOTE Wait ten minutes before turning the engine after installing push rods. This allows tappets to bleed down and prevents you from bending push rods or valves. 1. Rotate the engine so that both valves of the front cylinder are partially open. Shine a light through the exhaust port and look through the spark plug hole to view the valves. Turn engine, if required, to the point where the exhaust evel sensor to the fuel pump with screw (3). Tighten the screw enough to seat the fuel sensor against the mounting tab e. Route fuel level sensor wiring under the fuel hose and connect the fuel level sensor to the low fuel switch connector on the fuel pump module. If necessary use the jumper harness (Figure 4, item 5). f. See Figure 2. Secure the fuel pump wires and con- nectors

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MPS Sport Bike Auto Shift Installation Manuals

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Filed Under (Suzuki) by admin on 21-02-2012

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The first thing to do is remove the seat, fuel tank, and possibly the front fairing if equipped. You will need plenty of room to work. Electrical Connections – You will need to locate and test a few things on your bike before you start wiring. A good ground, an ignition switched 12 volt power source, the horns, and the ignition coils. We have plug n play style harnesses available for some bikes. Check the web site for specific models. Control Box Wiring Coils – Most four cylinder motorcycles use either a individual firing system or a waste spark system. Waste spark is by far the most common. All four cylinder bikes with only two coils use a waste spark system. Most late model four cylinder sport bikes use waste spark systems even though they have four individual coils. Bikes with a waste spark systems will need the 360 calibrated unit. The 360 calibrated Sport Bike Autoshifts are identified by the 360 engraved into the box below the wire lead exit. The P/N for these boxes has the 360 as a suffix. (P/N 1-0299-360) Some of the newest fuel injected bikes (Hayabusa, GSXR1000, ZX12) that have cam sync sensors are individual firing. These bikes will require 720 calibration and will have no outside identifiers and the P/N 1-0299. The Sport Bike Auto Shift has four brown wire leads that are connected to the negative of each individual coil on a four coil system. You will notice that the connector for the four brown wires has a molded in ridge that marks the brown wire that is used as the rpm sensor. This must be connected to the number one cylinder coil negative wire.