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Installation & Tuning Instructions For all Motorcycle Applications

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 02-01-2012

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1) Start with a cold motorcycle, and remove the seat (see owners manual for seat removal instructions). 2) Locate a suitable place for your new PowerCard: It is generally velcroed or zip tied under the seat or behind cowling, check for the easiest mounting and wire routing. Often it is easier to place the card in the desired location, and then pull wires from there, rather than connecting the wires and trying to work the PowerCard backward. (In a 2004 Yamaha R6 for example, it is easiest to mount the card, then route connectors one by one through to the engine compartment.) 3) Disconnect the battery ground. Battery may need to be removed to aid in installation (2006 Yamaha R1 for example). 4) Remove the fuel tank and necessary cowlings – many tanks can simply be rotated up and away to allow access to the fuel injector connectors. Secure the tank. Be careful to prevent fuel spills if fuel line removal is necessary – use the quick-disconnect fittings if your motorcycle is so equipped. (see owners manual for tank removal instructions) a. Note: ZX10 installation also requires removal of the stock air box. Unbolt, disconnect fittings, and then turn clock-wise one-quarter turn to remove. Distributed Exclusively by Moss Motors, Ltd.
3 PowerCard®Instructions Injector lead #3 improperly installed (+) 2 1 (-) 4 3 Distributed Exclusively by Moss Motors, Ltd. 5) Connecting the PowerCard harness inline: a. Remove any one factory fuel injector connector from an injector (a flat blade screwdriver or long nose pliers may be used to ease removal). b. Couple the female connector from the PowerCard onto the fuel injector, and plug the male connector into the ECU/factory wiring harness. c. Repeat for the rest of the fuel injector connectors – The order is not important as long as they are installed as they are paired (in and out)

Installation And Tuning Instructions For all Motorcycle Applications

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 27-10-2010

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1) Start with a cold motorcycle, and remove the seat (see owners manual for seat removal instructions). 2) Locate a suitable place for your new PowerCard: It is generally velcroed or zip tied under the seat or behind cowling, check for the easiest mounting and wire routing. Often it is easier to place the card in the desired location, and then pull wires from there, rather than connecting the wires and trying to work the PowerCard backward. (In a 2004 Yamaha R6 for example, it is easiest to mount the card, then route connectors one by one through to the engine compartment.) 3) Disconnect the battery ground. Battery may need to be removed to aid in installation (2006 Yamaha R1 for example). 4) Remove the fuel tank and necessary cowlings – many tanks can simply be rotated up and away to allow access to the fuel injector connectors. Secure the tank. Be careful to prevent fuel spills if fuel line removal is necessary – use the quick-disconnect fittings if your motorcycle is so equipped. (see owners manual for tank removal instructions) a. Note: ZX10 installation also requires removal of the stock air box. Unbolt, disconnect fittings, and then turn clock-wise one-quarter turn to remove. Distributed Exclusively by Moss Motors, Ltd. 3 Injector lead #3 improperly installed (+) 2 1 (-) 4 3 Distributed Exclusively by Moss Motors, Ltd. 5) Connecting the PowerCard harness inline: a. Remove any one factory fuel injector connector from an injector (a flat blade screwdriver or long nose pliers may be used to ease removal). b. Couple the female connector from the PowerCard onto the fuel injector, and plug the male connector into the ECU/factory wiring harness. c. Repeat for the rest of the fuel injector connectors – The order is not important as long as they are installed as they are paired

CSS/ CSR Separator, Recovery Tank, Purge Valve, CYC Timer & Pump INSTALLATION & OPERATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (CSR) by admin on 27-10-2010

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1.*The*CSS/CSR*system*skid*should*be*bolted*to*a*flat*&*level*concrete*foundation*with*suitably*sized*and*quantity*of*anchor*bolts.* The entire system (1″-6″) is on a single skid. For systems 8″ and larger, the separator stands alone on its own 3 legs, while the pump/motor, recovery tank (CSR only), and control panel are on an individual skid. It is therefore incumbent upon the installer to insure*that*the*complete*package*is*bolted*to*a*flat*&*level*concrete*foundation,*to*insure*that*the*”piping*assembly”*is*installed* without any undue stress. 2. Inspect and hydrotest all pipe connections for leaks. *All*flanged*connections*must*have*gaskets,*and*all*threaded*connections*must*have*Teflon*tape*or*anti-seize*coating. 4. Flush all new pipe construction before system operation. In the absence of a pump strainer basket, use a y-strainer with 1/4″ perforated*screen.**The*perforated*screen*must*be*at*least*the*same*size*or*one*pipe*size*larger*than*the*pump*suction.**The* perforated screen will block out larger debris such as welding rods, tools, rugs, gloves, etc. ELECTRICAL 1. Voltage supply to the system must be the same as the voltage indicated on the control panel. 2. Follow the pump operating instructions prior to start-up. 3.*Turn*the*motor*”ON”*and*check*rotation.**Rotation*must*turn*in*the*same*direction*as*the*arrow*located*on*the*pump* casing. If pump is rotating in the opposite direction then reverse L1 and L2 on the incoming power to the panel. Recheck rotation. 4. Starting or in-rush current should not exceed 3 seconds, running current should be equal to or less than nameplate full load amps (FLA). 5. Thermal Overload Setting 5a. Select the Operating Voltage 5b. Multiply Motor Service Factor (SF) by the Full Load Amps (FLA) to get the Service Factor Amps (SFA). 5c. Adjust the Thermal Overload Dial to match SFA Note: Some motors come with SFA written on the nameplate. The majority of our motors come with a 1.15 service factor, but very few come with a 1.25 SF. STARTUP 1. Open system inlet valve 100% and outlet valve 50% (supplied by others). 2.*Suction*line*must*be*flooded. 3. Open separator air vent located near the outlet, (standard on 2″ and larger). 4.*Turn*the*system*”ON.” 5. Purge all the air. 6.*For*HH*&*SP*systems,*open*outlet*valve*until*the*gauge*reads*35psi.*For*LH*systems,*open*outlet*valve*until*a*100%* opening*is*achieved.**If*system*begins*to*vibrate,*then*slightly*close*separator*outlet*until*it*stabilizes

1999-2001 Harley-Davidson Twin Cam 88 FI Controller Installation MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 25-03-2012

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Remove the seat. Remove or raise the fuel tank. The tank needs to be raised enough to give access to the fuel injectors and TPS wires. Unplug the front injector. On the FI Controller, there are 2 pairs of injector connectors. Plug the pair with the orange wires into the front cylinder injector harness and front cylinder injector. Repeat this using the other connector pair and the rear cylinder injector. Locate the TPS connector behind the throttle body. STEP 1 STEP3 STEP2 Installation Part# DFCH-2 2 Rear Cylinder Injector Front Cylinder Injector TPS Connector STEP 3 STEP 2 STEP1 Unplug the connector from the TPS. Crimp the wire tap onto the wire that is grey with a purple stripe. This wire should be in position “C” on the connector. Plug the grey wire from the FI Controller into the wire tap. Run the wiring harness for the FI Controller from the engine to the seat. Make sure that it will not get damaged when you reinstall the tank. Use one of the wire ties to tie the wires to the frame, away from the cylinder head. Place the FI Controller where you plan on mounting it permanently. In most cases, this will be under the seat. Connect the ground lug (black wire) to a grounding point on the bike. Use the Velcro tape to mount the FI Controller in position. Use alcohol swab to clean mounting surface prior to attaching Velcro. Reinstall fuel tank and seat. STEP 4 STEP 6 STEP 5 STEP4 STEP6 STEP5 Installation Part# DFCH-2 3 FI Controller
For Tech Support: 800.928.3962 Controls The FI Controller is preprogrammed with 4 base fuel curves. The curves are selected using the switch labeled BASE. These curves adjust fuel delivery based on throttle position and RPM, providing the right amount of fuel under all conditions. The 4 fuel curves correspond to varying levels of performance modifications. The levels of modification are broken down into the following groups. Base Curve 1 – Stock or basic modifications. This includes slip on exhausts, intakes, air boxes, and air filters. It will also work for headers or full exhaust systems. Base Curve 2 – Motor upgrades. This includes cams, 95 ci motors. Base Curve 3 – More extensive motor upgrades. This includes 103 ci motors, cams, ported heads

KTM 250F Timing Chain Tensioner Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (KTM) by admin on 19-10-2010

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1) Remove OEM Tensioner: On some models including the 250F motors, it may be necessary to put the engine at TDC before proceeding. Check your manual. This is not the case on the 450 and 530 single cam motors. • Remove the outer cover plug. • Remove the large cover with copper washer. • Using needle nose pliers grab the end of the OEM tensioner and pull it outward. Be careful not to damage the aluminum port or face. • If the O-ring did not come out with the tensioner, carefully reach into the port and remove it without pushing it further into the engine. 2) Install new Tensioner: • To prepare the new tensioner, set the spring aside. Put the new tensioner in the collapsed position. (They are packaged and shipped in the collapsed position.) If you have extended it, rotate the assembly until the “top” on the piston is facing up. Then a light tap from the bottom will release the ratchet. This will now allow the plunger to be retracted to about 1- 13/16″ (46mm). • Install the O-ring over the tensioner body, keeping it outboard of the ridge as shown. • Slide the tensioner assembly with O-ring (without the spring), into the engine port. The end (with the hex-head spring hole) should only protrude from the engine about 1/32″ (.75mm). • Install the cover and tighten. The copper washer should be tight. • Insert the spring through the cover port. As it is slowly inserted, you may hear clicks as it pushes the plunger inward while ratcheting. • Install and tighten the plug against the spring. Note: some 250F engines have a one piece cap. Slide the spring into the tensioner far enough to hold it, then capture it with the cap and tighten. • Start the engine and carefully check for oil leaks. Adjustment will occur internally as it is needed. No further maintenance of the tensioner is required

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HARLEY DAVIDSON AIR CLEANER TRIM INSERT INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 31-01-2011

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The following air cleaner trim insert kits fit all Harley-Davidson Evolution 1340 motors with 8 inch round air cleaners: 29244-97 Satin Chrome 29243-97 Chrome See Service Parts illustration below for kit contents. Installation 1. Remove original screw from air cleaner cover. 2. See Service Parts illustration. Put trim insert (1) into place secure with screw (2). Tighten screw to 3-5 ft-lbs (4-7 Nm)

ULTIMA IGNITION MODULE AND KIT INSTALLATION MANUAL FOR HARLEY DAVIDSON

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 03-03-2011

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Disconnect battery. 2. Mark location of timing plate in relation to inside of cam cover. This will give a starting point for timing on new module. Remove old ignition if applicable (see manual) Clymer, Haynes. 3. If your bike is not equipped with timing rotor M/W# 53-528 OEM#32402-83 you must buy one (included in kit). Also a single fire coil is needed (included in kit) M/W# 53-632. Any single fire coil rated 2-4 ohms can be used. NO SOLID CORE PLUG WIRES (copper, silver) they will damage the unit. 4. Install module: helpful hints, early model nose cones, i.e. Shovel Heads, the hole for the wire may need to be drilled out. Align with previously scripted mark for timing. Use lockwashers for stand offs for correct clearance of cover plate. Run wire loom. 5. Connect wires, see wiring diagram. Tape unused wires, green or brown. 12v to tach (brown) will damage module. Set timing. 1996 and later should not be timed 20˚ BTDC as the OEM module, but at 35˚ BTDC. Use this mark when using timing light. If VOESswitch is not used you must ground VOES wire (green) while timing. Refer to manual for correct identification of timing marks. At start up and timing, set spark advance in middle position. FUNCTION SWITCHES LED timing indicator light: When out, shows TDC. When ignition is on, LED will light up. When engine is cranking LED will blink. Electric Start/Kickstart: Set accordingly. VOES/Race mode: VOES switch lets the motor run smoother and improves gas mileage. If you don’t use it or add one tape up green wire and switch to race. VOES switch to use, M/W# 53-652. Spark advance: High compression motors should use race mode and 93 octane or better gas. Changing from VOES to race changes advance curves. Agood rule of thumb is if the engine knocks when throttle is applied in high gear, turn back spark advance curve until it stops engine knock. RPMlimiter: Set at desired RPM to cut engine power. Rear Cylinder: This is for racing and should be set at a dyno. +/-5˚. Rear cylinder timing is achieved through this adjuster. Most should dial to middle setting and leave alone. After all switches are set, install cover with supplied gasket and feel the increased performance of a solid state single fire ignition. Again, we remind you, if you don’t feel confident about installing this unit, let a qualified mechanic do it and be assured you are getting the best performance and gas mileage possible.

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Ducati 748 biposto specification

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Filed Under (Ducati) by admin on 11-11-2010

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part Number: G790-100-12A Description: Gasket Exhaust 4 Valve Belt product Details: Vee Two Gasket Sets are die cut from high quality gasket material and are supplied with ‘O’ Rings and Oil Seals. uoM: each Year from : all Year to : all part Number: V2-02-7307 Description: Main Bearing – Fits all 2 V + 4 V Belt to 2006 product Details: These bearings are carefully sourced from high end manufacturers and are supplied ro match the specific Bearing Clearances and fitting tolerances required for their particular requirements. uoM: each Year from : all Year to : all part Number: V2-03-604A Description: Camshaft – Road Drop In – Kit of 2 cams inlet only product Details: Drop in Street / Track camshaft, suited to predominately bigger bore 4 valve motors. Gives great bottom end feel due to increased torque. uoM: kit Year from : all Year to : all part Number: V2-03-606 Description: Camshaft – Track – Kit of 4 cams product Details: A predominately race bred camshaft made to produce horsepower at high revs. Very strong above 8500rpm. Must have a very high compression ratio motor, 13.5-1 minimum. uoM: kit Year from : all Year to : all

AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION FLUID (ATF) APPLICATION GUIDE

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Filed Under (Toyota Manuals) by admin on 20-09-2011

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With so many automatic transmission fluids, it’s hard to choose the one best-suited for each vehicle. Beginning in 2007, there will be several changes to the way we look at transmission fluids. Products meeting current DEXRON®-III /MERCON® specifications will no longer be officially licensed by GM and Ford. However, products meeting these specifications will still be available – packaged as Valvoline® DEX/MERC and Valvoline’s MaxLife® DEX/MERC transmission fluids. The DEX/MERC fluids are recommended for GM, Ford and many import vehicles, 2005 and older. MERCON®V will also be compatible for Ford vehicles, 1996 and newer. GM has introduced DEXRON®-VI -a new, full-synthetic transmission fluid for GM vehicles and select imports, 2006 and newer. It is also backwards compatible for older GM vehicles. Valvoline now offers DEXRON®- VI fluid, officially licensed and approved by General Motors

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Harley-Davidson BIG-TWIN 8mm BELT DRIVES (OPEN OR CLOSED) INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 16-04-2012

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INSTALLATION : The spacer behind the front pulley should be removed prior to installing the belt drive. This spacer may or may not be required to correctly align the pulleys. If a spacer is needed for alignment, various sizes are available from your local Primo Belt Drives dealer (part number PX-1 =package of 6 various sizes). With all supporting components installed, install front pulley, lubricate and reinstall the clutch hub. Loop the belt around the front and rear pulleys, and gently push into place. Use the washer and nut supplied with the kit on the front motor shaft, (always use an impact wrench on splined shaft motors) tighten to 80-100 foot pounds of torque. After installing and adjusting clutch, track the belt by turning the pulleys. If needed us a straight edge between the front and rear pulleys to check alignment. Improper alignment of the pulleys will result in reduced belt life. Spacing the motor pulley outward will cause the belt to track towards the outer primary cover. If spaced too far out the belt will rub on the inside of the clutch shell. ENCLOSED INSTALLATIONS: The same disassembly is required, with the exception of the clutch hub and inner primary. We recommend using our PC-1000-Acomplete clutch assembly. Loop the belt around both pulleys to insure that you have the proper belt for your pulleys, then gently push the unit into place. Use the washer and nut supplied with the kit on the motor shaft. Torque the motor nut to 80-100 foot pounds . Adjust the clutch & check belt / pulley alignment. Before installing the primary cover be sure that everything inside clears both the outer and inner covers. In some cases a small amount of metal may need to be removed from one or more of the bosses on the inner or outer primary covers