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ACE -325X/ 395 X-XX CLOCK, UNIT, WHEEL, ODOMETER, TEMPERATURE & FUEL METER SETTING

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 24-12-2011

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Setup operations include 12/24hour clock, bar tachometer scale, shift warning RPM, numbers of engine rotation per signal, wheel circumference, units, odometer adjustment, units of temperature, temperature warning and fuel meter input resistance selection. These must be set up step by step. The computer will automatic reversion to main screen if no button operation for 75 seconds at any setting screen. 2. Press both MODE & RESET buttons to go into setting screen. In setting screens, press RESET button to add the flashing digit by 1 or convert units, press MODE button to confirm the digit setting and jump to next digit or next setting screen to be set. Press MODE button for 2 seconds at any setting screen to finish the setting and go to main screen. 3. It displays “12 or 24H and XX:XX-XX” symbols and AM/PM in case you select 12H. Operates buttons as descriptions of item 2 to finish clock and jump to 8,000/16,000rpm scale setting. 4. It displays 8,000rpm scale, presess RESET button to convert 8,000 or 16,000rpm. Press MODE button to confirm the setting and jump to shift RPM warning setting. 5. It displays ” RPM rXXX00 “. Follow the item 2 of button operation to finish the shift RPM warning setting and jump to engine specification setting. 6. It displays “SPC-X.X RPM”, the default value is 1.0; there are 4 options: 1.0, 2.0, 3.0 and 0.5. It means the numbers of engine rotation per signal. For example the value 2.0 means the engine rotate 2 turns to output a signal. 7. Press RESET button to move in loop sequence from one to another value of the 4 values. Press MODE button to confirm the setting and go to wheel circumference setting screen. 8. In “cXXXX” display, “c” means “Circumference”, following 4 default digits; flashing digit is digit to be set. Follow the item 2 of button operation to finish the wheel circumference setting and jump to unit setting. 9. It displays KM/h or MPH, each press of RESET button converts unit; press MODE button to confirm unit setting and jump to odometer setting. 10. It displays “ODO & 00000Xkm”, the “X” is tested odometer in factory, follow item 2 to setting a desired odometer and jump to thermometer unit setting. The setting screen will disappear when the odometer is over 30km or your setting is over 30km and returned to main screen. 11. It displaysm ” , or oFF”, each press of RESET button converts , or oFF; press MODE button to confirm temperature setting and jump to temperature warning setting. 12. It displays ” XXX” and the selected unit. Follow the item 2 of button operation to finish the temperature warning setting and go to fuel sensor input resistance setting. 13. It displays “100r and fuel tank symbol”, follow the item 2 to select 100, 250, 510 Ohm or oFF and return to the main screen. The fuel meter bar will disappear if you select oFF mode.

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KAWASAKI 1500 CARB THUNDER Air Filter Kit Installation And removal Instruction

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 25-10-2010

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1) Remove Seat 10mm KAW 1500 CARB ADPTOR QTY PARTS LIST 1 1500 CARB ADAPTOR 1 3″ PIECE OF HOSE 1 DOUBLE BARB 1 L-BARB 1 3/8″ RED PLUG 1 ¼” BLACK VACCUM PLUG 1 M6-1 NYLON INSERT LOCK NUT 3 M6-1 X 16 FLAT SOCKET HD CAP SCREW 1 170 MJ 1 INSTRUCTIONS 2) Remove Dash Plaque 8mm bottom Bolt only 3) Lift from bottom then Remove speedo cable 4) Disconnect Electric Plugs 5) Remove 12mm bolts holding tank 6) Turn petcock OFF – Pinch off fuel line. 7) Disconnect the electric Plug under speedo opening 8) Lift Tank at Rear – Disconnect two Vent Lines; Fuel gage Vent will Pull up – Remove. 9) Remove Chrome Air Cover. 10) Left side Remove two screws – 10mm bolt in side Air box. Pull hoses off Remove 1″ hose going to cross over Tube. 11) Remove two 8mm bolts on Bracket – Remove Bracket 12) Remove Screw on Top of air Box Snorkel 13) Remove both side covers 14) Remove air Backing plate right side (Crank Case Breather hose that connects to stock air box will connect to new) 15) Remove Bracket that holds Carb and holds Backing Plate 16) Take idle adjustable Knob loose – let hang loose 17) Take Choke Knob out of holding Bracket 18) Hose that went to cross over tube MAY BE PLUGGED OR VENTED your Choice (Fresh air unit) ** 98′S or any models with carb warmer should disconnect carb warmer by pinching off line on each side of connector that plugs into carb on bottom. Small bracket with one screw directly on the bottom of carb. 19) Loosen Clamp that holds Carb to intake Manifold, Carb will hang loose 20) Remove intake Manifold 5mm Allen- Remove crossover tube. 21) (- BE CAREFULL-) LINE IT UP RIGHT- Replace intake Manifold (YOU MAY TO SEAL THIS WITH A SEALER LIKE PERMATEX) ( BE SUPER CAREFUL TO KEEP INTAKE COVERED DURING EACH STEP. SCREWS CAN FALL ONTO INTAKE) 22) Drain Float Bowl 3mm allen – very bottom of carb 23) Remove Float Bowl 4 screws (#2 Phillips) let hang down 24) Remove main jet, if Emulsion tube comes out use 8mm and Flat tip to separate jet from Emulsion tube. 25) Install with new jet 26) CAREFULLY Reinstall Float Bowl Cover 27) If installing Needle Remove Top Cover of Carb, Carefully pull the slide out. ( BE CAREFUL WITH DIAPHRAM) Remove Spring + Needle Install new Needle (WE RECOMMEND THE 3RD CLIP FROM TOP WITH TWO WASHERS ON TOP. REINSTALL 28) Be sure to reseat diaphragm – BE CAREFUL Reinstall Cover. 29) Install Carb to Intake – reconnect carb warmer if applicable 30) Reattach idle adjustment 31) Reattach Choke 32) Reattach Bracket in front of Carb- 33) Take Center bolt mount Rubber Gromlet from Stock Air box Plate install in to new Air box Adapter use stock Bolt, Attach to Bracke

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Kawasaki Ninja 250 FAQ

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 15-11-2010

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Am I too small for this motorcycle? Duke – Sun May 14 17:38:31 2000 I’m only about 5’2″ and don’t have a problem, even though I can only touch the ground with the ends of my toes. Once you get a feel for the balance of the bike it’s not hard to keep everything upright. Only place I have trouble is pushing the bike backwards in a parking lot. Usually I just walk the bike (beside it) to where I can get on and get going. How does the EX500 compare to the EX250? Craig M. – Mon May 22 10:23:29 2000 I have both the EX250 and the EX500; both are Y2K models. The 250 is a screamer that performs well and can easily get me into trouble. My only complaints about the 250 are the excessive nose dive when getting on the front brake hard and the skittishness of the rear during high speed cornering. Both are easily corrected with suspension adjustments, I’ve just been too lazy to get the parts and do the work. A bit more wind protection would be great too. The 500 addresses these problems, the diving of the front end (to a degree); the rear’s skittishness and the wind protection. A plus for the 500 is the greater torque and power off the line; it pulls stronger (in my opinion) and will get you into illegal speed territory just a bit quicker than the 250. With greater weight, is has more stability in high speed and windy situations. Insurance is just about the same for both, with the 250 getting the nod for gas mileage. Service requirements are almost identical for both as well, being that they’re both parallel twins, the technology is the virtually the same. The downfalls of the 500: $2K more than the 250 (can do a lot to the 250 with that kind of money); buzzy mirrors, barely useful; heavier weight to have to push around the garage; lesser gas mileage (55-60 MPG; 250 pushes 70 MPG easily); engine is worse than a nervous dog shaking around at idle and at speed (here the 250 is far superior and much smoother). In my opinion, the 500 is a better suited for a larger rider, from a comfort standpoint. I feel I can stretch out a bit more on it than the 250 (I’m 5′ 9″, 160 lbs). The 250′s brakes are better tuned than the 500 and the shifter is much smoother. That may be due to the 3,500 mile difference between the two bikes. Bottom line, both bikes are great, the 250 is now my wife’s ride (mainly) and the 500′s mine (unless she steals the keys away). In time, I’ll make the adjustments to the 250; she doesn’t push it like I do.

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2009 GAS GAS TXT PRO TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS AND OWNER'S MANUAL

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Filed Under (Gas Gas) by admin on 28-11-2010

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ENGINE 2 stroke, single cylinder, direct reed valve crankcase induction. Liquid cooled. 125 cc. engine Cylinder size 124,8 cc. Bore and stroke 54 x 54.5 mm. 200 cc. engine Cylinder size 175,3 cc. Bore and stroke 64 x 54,5 mm. 250 cc. engine Cylinder size 247,7 cc. Bore and stroke 72,5 x 60 mm. 280 cc. engine Cylinder size 272,2 cc. Bore and stroke 76 x 60 mm. 300 cc. engine Cylinder size 294,1 cc. Bore and stroke 79 x 60 mm. Carburettor, diameter of the diffusor 26 Lubrication system Mixture (50:1)(2%) Ignition system Digital magnetic flywheel CDI TRANSMISSION Transmission type 6 gears, Four / Six system by GAS GAS* (Patented). Clutch type Hydraulic command, 1/3 discs, variable progressive with diaphragm system by GAS GAS* (Patented). Driving system By chain Gear ratio 1st. 2,996 (35x27x28/16x24x23) 2nd. 2,571 (36/14) 3th. 2,187 (35/16) 4st. 2,112 (36x23x24/14x28x24) 5st. 1,125 (27/24) 6th. 0,821 (23/28)
-11- Primary reduction ratio 2,777 (75/27) Final reduction ratio 3,818 (42/11) Overall drive ratio 8,704 (6th. gear) Transmission oil Capacity 550 cc. Type 10W40 API SF o SG. FRAME Type Tubular profile made with Cr-Mo. Tyres Front 2,75 x 21″ Trial Rear 4,00 x 18″ Trial tubeless. Suspension Front Adjustable tele-hydraulic fork ø 40 mm. (125 / 200). Adjustable tele-hydraulic fork ø 40 mm with aluminium bars (250 / 280 / 300) Rear Variable progressive system with mono-shock multiadjustable. Suspension stroke Front 177 mm. Rear 164 mm. Front fork oil SAE 5. Front fork oil level ø 40 mm.(125 / 200) 180 mm. air chamber steel bar ø 40 mm. (250 / 280 / 300) 160 mm. air chamber aluminium bar BRAKES Type Disc brake. Disc diameter Front ø185 mm. 4 piston calipers. Rear ø150 mm. 2 piston calipers. DIMENSIONS Overall height 1180 mm. Overall width 820 mm. Seat height 650 mm. Ground clearance 315 mm. Wheelbase 1330 mm. Fuel tank capacity 3,1 liters.

2008 KTM 250 SX-F 250 XC-F, XCF-W 250 EXC-F, EXC-F SIX DAYS INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (KTM) by admin on 22-10-2010

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Hand brake lever The hand brake lever [1] is mounted on the handlebars on the right and actuates the front wheel brake. The adjusting screw [A] can be used to change the basic position of the hand brake lever (see “Maintenance”). 1 A Short circuit button The short circuit button [2] turns off the engine. When pressing this button, the ignition circuit is short-circuited. 2 Headlamp switch (XCF-W) In this model the headlamp is switched on with the pull switch [5] . 5 Flasher switch The flasher switch is a separate unit and is mounted on the left portion of the handlebar. The wire harness is designed in a way that whenever you want to use your bike off-road, you can dismount the entire turn indicator system without affecting the function of the remaining electrical system. Flasher left Flasher right
OPERATION INSTRUMENTS » ENGLISH 7 1 2 3 4 5 Starter button Pushing the red starter button [1] will actuate the E-starter. Emergency OFF switch (EXC-F Australia) The red emergency-OFF switch [2] is arranged adjacent to the throttle grip. In this position, the E-starter is operational and the engine can be started. In this position, the E-starter and ignition circuits are interrupted.The E-starter cannot be actuated, and the engine will not start, not even if you attempt to start it with the kickstarter. Pushing the black starter button [3] will actuate the E-starter. Indicator lamps The green control lamp [4] flashes in the same rhythm as the flashing indicator when the indicator is working. The blue control lamp [5] lights up when the high beam is on. TEST All of the display segments briefly light up for the display function test. Electronic speedometer The display in the electronic speedometer is activated as soon as you press a button on the speedometer or an impulse is received from the wheel sensor. The display lights up when the engine is running. The display is cleared if no button is pressed for 1 minute or no impulse is received from the wheel sensor. The button is used to change between display modes. The + and – buttons are used to control various functions

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HW Prowler Carburetor Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Mikuni) by admin on 31-10-2010

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1. Remove both seats and the plastic seat pans under the seats. 2. Remove the engine cover 3. Remove the air-box by removing the cross-bar support that runs under the air-box to the framing on each side by the seat framing and disconnect the air box from the carburetor and from the plastic intake in the rear. 4. Disconnect the engine breather hose from the bottom of the air box 5. Set the air-box to the side 6. Disconnect the plug going to the stock carburetor, this is the electronic choke. Wrap the end left on the vehicle with electrical tape. 7. Cut the fuel line just above the fitting on the passenger side of the carb 8. Remove the side cover off the drivers side of the carb where the throttle cable goes in, see fig. #1 9. Pull the throttle cable out and then remove the throttle cable end from the throttle plate See Fig. #2 10. Loosen the clamp on the rear of the carb holding the carb on 11. Pull the carb out of the intake boot 12. Set OE carb to the side. 13. Push the new Carb into the intake boot making sure the carb is perfectly vertical and then tighten the clamp back up. The new carb is slightly larger than the stock one so some additional pressure will be needed to get it in. 14. Route all the breather lines connected to the carb down under the carb. 15. Connect the throttle cable onto the new carb but putting the cable end in the bottom hole of the throttle plate on the passenger side of the carb allowing the cable to ride in the slot in the plate and then turn the throttle plate clock wise allowing the threaded end of the cable to fit into the lower round hole of the throttle cable connection plate. See Fig. #3 16. Make sure you have a nut on each side of the plate turn the nut on the outside of the plate to take up the slack in the throttle cable then tighten the nut on the inside of the plate. See Fig. #3 17. Push the fuel line onto the fuel inlet on the passenger side of the carb and install the supplied clamp to hold it on. The fuel line will be a little hard to push on. 18. DO NOT ATTEMPT TO INSTALL THE CHOKE CABLE PARTS SUPPLIED IN THE KIT UNTIL AFTER THE CHOKE CABLE ITSELF IS INSTALLED AND READY TO SCREW INTO THE CARBUETOR. 19. To install the supplied choke cable, drill a 3/8″ hole in the dash on the left side of the steering wheel in a location convenient to your left hand. 20. Remove the plastic nut from the bottom of the choke handle on the choke cable. 21. Push the choke cable thru the hole you drilled and then slide the nut over the cable to the inside of the dash and reinstall back on the back of the choke mechanism. Some dash screws maybe needed to be removed to accomplish this

KTM 250/ 300/ 380 SX,MXC,EXC ENGINE REPAIR MANUAL

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Filed Under (KTM) by admin on 12-11-2010

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Repair manual KTM 250 / 300 / 380 Art No 3206004 -E 2-2C main jet jet needle jet needle air control screw idle adjusting screw idle jet throttle valve Idling range A Operation with closed throttle valve. This range is influenced by the position of the air control screw 1 and the idle adjusting screw 2 . Only make adjustments when the engine is hot. To this end, slightly increase the idling speed of the engine by means of the idle adjusting screw. Turning it clockwise produces a higher idling speed and turning the screw counterclockwise produces a lower idling speed. Create a round and stable engine speed using the air control screw (basic position of the air control screw = open by 1.5 turns). Then adjust to the normal idling speed by means of the idle adjusting screw. Opening up B Engine behavior when the throttle opens. The idle jet and the shape of the throttle valve influences this range. If, despite good idling-speed and part-throttle setting, the engine sputters and smokes when the throttle is fully opened and develops its full power not smoothly but suddenly at high engine speeds, the mixture to the carburetor will be too rich, the fuel level too high or the float needle is leaking. Part-throttle range C Operation with partly open throttle valve. This range is only influenced by the jet needle (shape and position). The optimum part-throttle setting is controlled by the idling setting in the lower range and by the main jet in the upper range. If the engine runs on a four-stroke cycle or with reduced power when it is accelerated with the throttle partly open, the jet needle must be lowered by one notch. If then the engine pings, especially when accelerating under full power at maximum engine revs, the jet needle should be raised. If these faults should occur at the lower end of the part throttle range at a four-stroke running, make the idling range leaner; if the engine pings, adjust the idling range richer. Full throttle range D Operation with the throttle fully open (flat out). This range is influenced by the main jet and the jet needle. If the porcelain of the new spark plug is found to have a very bright or white coating or if the engine rings, after a short distance of riding flat out, a larger main jet is required. If the porcelain is dark brown or black with soot the main jet must be replaced by a smaller one. mixture too rich: too much fuel in proportion to air mixture too lean: not enough fuel in proportion to air 1 2 OPERATING RANGES OF THE CARBURETOR 2-3C Carburetor adjustment Basic information on the original carburetor setting The original carburetor setting was adapted for an altitude of approx. 500 meters (1600 ft.) above sea level, and the ambient temperature of approx. 20°C (68°F), mainly for off-road use and central European premium-grade fuel (ROZ 95 MOZ). Mixing ratio 2-stroke motor oil : super fuel 1:40 – 1:60. Basic information on a change of the carburetor setting Always start out from the original carburetor setting. Essential requirements are a clean air filter system, air-tight exhaust system and an intact carburetor. Experience has shown that adjusting the main jet, the idling jet and the jet needle is sufficient and that changes of other parts of the carburetor will not greatly affect engine performance. RULE OF THUMB:

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FLEXIBLE GAS PIPING DESIGN GUIDE and INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (S&S) by admin on 29-10-2010

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Definitions: Grounding : The process of making an electrical connection to the general mass of the earth. This is most often accomplished with ground rods, ground mats or some other grounding system. Low resistance grounding is critical to the operation of lightning protection techniques. Bonding : The process of making an electrical connection between the grounding electrode and any equipment, appliance, or metal conductor: pipes, plumbing, flues, etc. Equipment bonding serves to protect people and equipment in the event of an electrical fault. Equipotential Bonding : The process of making an electrical connection between the grounding electrode and any metal conductor: pipes, plumbing, flues, etc., which may be exposed to a lightning strike and can be a conductive path for lightning energy towards or away from the grounding electrode. 2. The National Fuel Gas Code NFPA 54/ANSI Z223 states, “Each above ground portion of a gas piping system upstream from the equipment shutoff valve shall be electrically continuous and bonded to any grounding electrode, as defined by NFPA 70, National Electrical Code ( ANSI/NFPA 70 1999 Edition.) 3. The TracPipe® gas piping system shall be bonded in accordance with the National Fuel Gas Code, NFPA 54/ANSI Z223. The piping system is not to be used as a grounding conductor or electrode for an electrical system. 4. For bonding of the TracPipe® system, a bonding clamp must be attached to the brass AutoFlare®fitting adapter (adjacent to the pipe thread area – see Figure 4-21) or to a black pipe component (pipe or fitting) located in the same electrically continuous gas piping system as the AutoFlare®fitting. The corrugated stain- less steel portion of the gas piping system SHALL NOT be used as the bonding attachment point under any circumstances. Bonding electrode conductor sizing shall be in accordance with Article 250 (Table 250-66) of ANSI/NFPA 70. The bonding is a requirement of the National Electrical Code

KYMCO MAXXER 300/ 250 MONGOOSE 300/ 250 SERVICE MANUAL

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Filed Under (Kymco) by admin on 26-10-2010

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apply or add designated greases and lubricants to the specified lubrication points. ÑAfter reassembly, check all parts for proper tightening and operation. ÑWhen two persons work together, pay attention to the mutual working safety. ÑDisconnect the battery negative (-) terminal before operation. ÑWhen using a spanner or other tools, make sure not to damage the motorcycle surface. ÑAfter operation, check all connecting points, fasteners, and lines for proper connection and installation. ÑWhen connecting the battery, the positive (+) terminal must be connected first. ÑAfter connection, apply grease to the battery terminals. ÑTerminal caps shall be installed securely. 1 . GENERAL INFORMATION 1-6 ATV 300/250 ÑIf the fuse is burned out, find the cause and repair it. Replace it with a new one according to the specified capacity. ÑAfter operation, terminal caps shall be installed securely. ÑWhen taking out the connector, the lock on the connector shall be released before operation. ÑHold the connector body when connecting or disconnecting it. ÑDo not pull the connector wire. ÑCheck if any connector terminal is bending, protruding or loose. Confirm Capacity 1 . GENERAL INFORMATION 1-7 ATV 300/250 ÑThe connector shall be inserted completely. ÑIf the double connector has a lock, lock it at the correct position. ÑCheck if there is any loose wire

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HARLEY DAVIDSON LOCKING FUEL FILLER CAP KIT REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 11-02-2011

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INSTALLATION 1. Prior to installing the gas cap on the vehicle, insert the key into the lock. Firmly grasp the chrome top of the fuel cap and turn the key until it stops. On right hand threaded fuel caps, turn the key counter-clockwise until it stops. On left hand threaded fuel caps, turn the key clockwise until it stops. This assures an unlocked position for the gas cap. Allow the key to return to the neutral position. 2. Remove the key and install the fuel cap on the vehicle. is00770 Figure 1. Right Hand Threaded Fuel Cap Installation NOTE When installing the fuel cap, rotate the cap one full turn past the audible click. This automatically positions gas cap to lock position. A properly locked/installed gas cap will rotate freely in both directions. Failure to do so will give an incorrect assumption that the fuel cap does not work properly. REMOVAL On right hand threaded fuel caps, insert key, and while holding the gas cap in place with hand, turn key counterclockwise until it stops, return key to original position. Gas cap must rotate 270 degrees counter-clockwise before mechanism engages to allow gas cap removal. Continue to rotate counterclockwise to fully remove gas cap. On left hand threaded fuel caps, insert key and while holding the gas cap in place with hand, turn key clockwise until it stops, return key to original position. Gas cap must rotate 270 degrees clockwise before mechanism engages to allow gas cap removal. Continue to rotate clockwise to fully remove gas cap. REPLACEMENT KEYS Record the 4 digit key number stamped on the back of the key opposite the Harley-Davidson logo, in the area provided below. If a replacement key is needed, see your Harley-Davidson Dealer with the 4 digit number to order a replacement

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