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HARLEY DAVIDSON 45-AMP. UPGRADE ALTERNATOR ROTOR KIT INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 15-03-2011

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This 45-amp Rotor Kit is designed for installation on 1999 and later FLHT, FLHTC, FLHR, FLHRI, FLHRCI and FLTR Model Motorcycles. Existing Rotor Removal 1. Remove seat and disconnect battery terminals, negative cable first. 2. Follow instructions in applicable Service Manual and remove the primary chaincase cover. Remove the clutch, primary chain, compensating sprocket and shaft extension as a single assembly. 3. Remove the alternator rotor spacer, if present. Installation The laminated high-output rotor in this kit contains magnets that are considerably more powerful than those used in most previous rotors. The ROTOR REMOVER/INSTALLER and SHAFT PROTECTOR SLEEVE (HD-41771) must be used to prevent parts damage during rotor removal and installation. 1. See Figure 1. Verify threads are clean and thread the Shaft Protector and Rotor Remover/Installer, if removed. NOTE The Shaft Protector Sleeve not only protects the threads from the splines of the rotor, but acts as a guide to ensure that the rotor is properly centered. 2. Turn thumbscrews of Rotor Remover/Installer into threaded holes in rotor face. CAUTION 1 WARNING 1 WARNING 1 WARNING Kit Number 29999-97B Figure 1. Install Shaft Protector and Rotor Installer Engine Sprocket Shaft 1. Make Sure Threads are Clean 2. Install shaft protector sleeve. Shaft protector sleeve 3. Install Rotor Remover/Installer i04153 Handle Thumbscrew Forcing screw . Center ball on forcing screw in recess at end of engine sprocket shaft. Rotate the handle of the tool in a counterclockwise direction to ease rotor into position over stator. 4. Loosen thumbscrews and remove Rotor Remover/Installer. Remove Shaft Protector Sleeve. 5. Install the shaft extension on engine sprocket shaft. No alternator rotor spacer is necessary). 6. Follow instructions in applicable Service Manual and install the clutch assembly, primary chain and shaft extension as a single assembly. 7. Apply two drops of Red LOCTITE®262 to threads of clutch nut and engine sprocket nut. Tighten nuts as fol- lows: Clutch nut- (left hand threads), 70-80 ft-lbs (94.9-105.5 Nm) Engine sprocket nut- 150-165 ft-lbs (203-223 Nm). 8. Follow instructions in Service Manual and install the Primary Chaincase Cover using new gasket from kit, if necessary.

HONDA VT-600 Front Wheel Adapter kit Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 10-11-2010

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1. Using a 6mm Allen wrench, loosen the 2 front axle pinch bolts on the right side of the lower fork leg. Loosen bolts 4 or 5 turns. 2. Using a 17mm Allen wrench, slightly loosen the front axle from the right side of the bike. Having the front wheel on the ground will help you in loosening the axle. Do not remove the axle at this time! 3. Loosen and remove the speedometer cable from the back of the speedometer on your handlebars. Pull the speedometer cable all the way out of the front fork. Remove the cable from the speedometer drive on your front wheel (note the position of the connection as it will be similar on your new drive installation). This speedometer cable or speedometer drive will not be needed on your new wheel installation. 4. Block the back wheel to prevent the bike from rolling backwards, and raise the motorcycle’s front wheel off of the ground, so the wheel spins freely. You can do this with a motorcycle lift placed under the front portion of the motorcycle frame. Contact Scootworks to purchase a lift if you don’t have access to one. Ensure the bike is stable and will not fall before proceeding further! Scootworks, Inc. 3 5. Using the 17mm Allen wrench, finish loosening the front axle until it is completely free from the left side of the lower fork. Hold onto the front wheel and slowly remove the axle from the front fork. Be careful not to let the wheel drop. Having a helper hold the wheel for you as you remove the axle will ease the removal. Slide the brake rotor out of the calipers. NOTE: be careful not to operate the front brake controls with the brake rotor removed from the calipers. 6. With the wheel removed from the front forks, lay the wheel on a padded or cushioned surface with the brake rotor facing upwards. Using a 6mm Allen wrench, remove the 5 Allen bolts from the brake rotor. (The bolts are sometimes installed with loctite, and may require heating with a small torch to loosen the loctite). Remove the brake rotor from the wheel. Place the wheel to the side. Clean up the bolts as you will reuse them later. 7. Take your new custom wheel that you will be installing on your bike and place it on a cushioned or padded surface to prevent scratching. Turn it so that the side where the brake rotor attaches is facing upward. 8. Ensure the brake rotor mounting holes on the wheel are clean and free of oil or grease. Clean with alcohol if needed, then let dry. Place your new brake rotor adapter plate onto the wheel with the flat side against the wheel. Apply a small amount of medium strength (blue) loctite on each of the 5/16″ Allen bolts supplied with your kit and install through the new rotor adapter plate and into the wheel. Tighten with a 3/16″ Allen wrench until snug. When all bolts are installed, tighten in a star pattern, and torque to 25-30 ft. lbs. 9. Install your brake rotor onto the new brake rotor adapter using the original bolts you removed in step 6. Apply a small amount of medium strength loctite to each bolt and install through the brake rotor into the new brake rotor adapter. Tighten in a star pattern, and torque to 25-30 ft. lbs. 10. It is now time to install your new wheel/rotor adapter onto your bike. It is easiest to accomplish this with a helper, as it takes some coordination to get the wheel, brake rotor and spacers into place. Apply a thin coat of grease to the axle. Lift the front wheel into place between the front forks, aligning the brake rotor into the caliper. The caliper floats from left to right and can be moved into the proper position. If the caliper is closed, pry the brake pads apart so that the rotor will slide into the caliper.

HARLEY DAVIDSON SHIFTER SHAFT COVER WITH INSERT INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 03-02-2011

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INSTALLATION 1 2 4 3 5 6 7 is01872 1. Shifter shaft 2. Inner cover 3. Toe shifter lever 4. Outer cover 5. Set screw (for outer cover) 6. Set screw (for inner cover) 7. Casting Figure 1. Shifter Shaft Covers 1. See Figure 1. Remove the stock heel shift lever and toe shift lever (3) from the gear shifter shaft (1). 2. Install the set screw (6) into the inner gear shifter shaft cover (2). 3. Install inner gear shifter shaft cover with installed set screw over the casting (7) in-board of the shifter shaft (1). 4. Tighten the set screw until light contact is made with the casting. Do not overtighten. 5. Re-install toe shift lever on the gear shifter shaft. Tighten the shifter retaining screw to 18-22 lb-ft (24-30 Nm) . 6. Install the set screw (5) into the outer gear shifter cover (4). 7. Install outer gear shifter shaft cover with installed set screw over the end of the gear shifter shaft (1). 8. Loosen the set screw slightly to allow the gear shifter shaft cover to rotate. Rotate the cover until the set screw faces down, then tighten the set screw. SERVICE PARTS

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HARLEY DAVIDSON GEAR SHIFTER SHAFT COVER INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 30-03-2011

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Models This kit fits 1982 and later Touring and FL Softail model motorcycles. Kit Contents Table 1. Kit Contents Part Number Description (Quantity) Not Sold Separately Gear shifter shaft cover Not Sold Separately Screw, set There are no Service Parts available with this kit. INSTALLATION 1. Remove the stock heel shift lever from the gear shifter shaft. 2. Install the set screw into the gear shifter shaft cover. 3. Install gear shifter shaft cover with installed set screw over the end of the gear shifter shaft. 4. Tighten the set screw until light contact is made with the shaft groove. 5. Loosen the set screw slightly to allow the gear shifter shaft cover to rotate. Rotate the cover until the set screw faces down, then tighten the set screw.

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4-STROKE TRIUMPH SINGLE CYLINDER MOTORCYCLES ELECTRONIC IGNITION SYSTEM INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Triumph) by admin on 27-10-2010

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1. Remove the petrol tank (and seat if necessary) to gain access to the ignition coil, condensor and wiring. 2. For safety, disconnect the battery, if fitted (preferably both terminals). 3. Remove the spark plug. 4. Remove the alternator rotor cover (if fitted). 5. Loosen the auto-advance centre bolt. Rotate the engine to the correct full advance timing position for your machine (see table on page 6), using one of these methods: • Models from 1967 on: use the marks provided for strobe timing on the rotor & chaincase (inside the rotor cover). Unless these marks are known to be accurate it is recommended that they are checked for correct alignment. These marks should line up at the full advance position, check using one of the methods below and, if necessary, re-mark the rotor. • Models from 1969 on: use the timing plug on the left-hand crankcase • Use a degree disc on the crankshaft / camshaft (see table on page 6) • Use a dial guage down the spark plug hole (see table on page 6) 5. Remove kickstart, gear lever and outer timing cover. 6. Remove the contact-breaker plate and lead from the outer timing cover. 7. Taking the ignition trigger assembly, insert a small cable tie into the two holes in front of the connector block on the ignition trigger. This will be used later to secure the two wires to the plate. 8. Fit the ignition trigger plate with the adjustable slots at approx. 6 & 12 o’clock, using the original pillar fixings & washers, positioned in the centre of the slots (to allow for adjustment in either direction). Handle the trigger with care. • RED EARTHING WIRE • CRIMP CONNECTORS & INSULATORS • LARGE & SMALL CABLE TIES • CABLE TIE ADHESIVE MOUNTING BASE 3
9. Remove the centre bolt securing the auto-advance unit. Remove the complete auto-advance unit with an extractor bolt or by tapping it gently sideways. 10. Fit the magnetic rotor in place of the auto-advance unit, with the magnets/ red marks positioned at approx. 3 & 9 o’clock. The magnetic rotor has a male taper which fits into the taper in the end of the camshaft. There is no keyway, allowing it to be fitted in any desired position. 11. Using the ¼” washer and the appropriate bolt (UNF or BSF), pass the bolt through the centre of the magnetic rotor and into the thread in the camshaft. Finger tighten only at this stage. The magnetic rotor centre thread (metric M8) is provided for attaching a puller, if the rotor should need to be removed for engine servicing, etc. 12. Replace the outer timing cover, gear lever & kickstart. 13. Check that the engine is still at the correct full advance position, then adjust the magnetic rotor position so that one of the red marks is centrally behind the static timing hole at 9 o’clock (see fig. 4, page 7). If your machine’s camshaft rotates clockwise, refer to fig. 3. Gently tap the rotor into the taper & tighten the centre bolt, using a 3/16″ allen key. WIRING: 14. All connections must be of the highest quality, use crimped or soldered connections; twisted wires will not give a satisfactory operation. Avoid coiling up surplus lead.

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Harley-Davidson Motorcycle Reverse Gear Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 31-10-2010

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2.1 Obtain a small tube of Loctite® #262 (red) for use later. 2.2 Drain the transmission oil. 2.3 Remove the clutch adjustment cover (left side). 2.4 Remove rear exhaust header pipe (cross over exhaust pipe). 2.5 Remove the muffler support bracket. 2.6 Remove the clutch release cover (right side). 2.7 Remove clutch push rod and oil slinger. To be disassembled and modified later. 2.8 Remove the two nuts from the main (rear) and counter (front) transmission shafts. 2.9 Remove the transmission bearing housing (puller available from Champion Sidecars). To be replaced with new reverse gear transmission bearing housing (Trap Door). 2.10 Cover the exposed gears in the transmission with a cloth in preparation to cut the shifter fork shaft. 3 Install New Main and Countershaft Gears NOTE: Gears and Tapered Split Rings are factory matched sets. Do not mix!. 3.1 Locate the shifter fork rod, mark fork rod flush at transmission case and pull out 1/4″. Figure 1 Figure 2. Exposed Shoulders Mark shifter fork rod flush with case Remove Spacers Vehicle Transmission Counter Shaft Main Shaft Front of Motorcycle Figure 1
Reverse Gear Installation Instructions For EVO / 5 Speed and Twin Cam Harley-Davidson® Motorcycle Page 3 of 6 Revision 7 © 2007 Champion Motorcycle Accessories International, Inc. dba Champion Sidecars 11841 Monarch Street Garden Grove, CA 92841 (800) 875-0949 (714) 847-0949 www.championsidecars.com www.championtrikes.com Figure 6 CAUTION: Do not pull the shifter fork rod out of the transmission more than 1/4″. If you pull the shifter fork rod out too far, it will be difficult to realign it with the internal shifter fork. 3.2 Cut the shaft at the mark and push it back in. The shaft end MUST NOT stick out of the transmission case. If the shaft is in deeper, fill the hole with silicone to prevent the shaft from moving in and out. NOTE: Shifter fork is made of non-tempered metal and may be cut with a hacksaw or Dremel® cutting tool. 3.3 Important: Remove stock spacers from main and counter shafts. Spray with silicon remover (Brake-Clean) then, using supplied cleaning pad, clean shafts, new counter and main shaft gears and tapered lock rings (inside and outside) Figure 1 3.4 With motorcycle in neutral, pull both the shafts out and simultaneously push the OEM outermost gears in until seated completely to expose the shoulders of both shafts. The countershaft shoulder should be flush with the gear face. For the main shaft the gear would “hang over” the shoulder a small bit. Figure 2 3.5 Apply supplied Champion Super-Lock retaining compound to the inside and outside surfaces of the large gear tapered split ring, to the inside of the new countershaft gear (large gear) and to the transmission countershaft (the forward most shaft). 3.6 Install new countershaft gear to the transmission countershaft. Insert tapered split ring (tapered end first) into the countershaft gear. Install ring seat tool and spring to counter shaft and new countershaft gear. Torque ring seat tool to 40 ft-lb’s. Figures 3 and 4

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Harley-Davidson Electronic Ignition Module Installation instructions

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 23-04-2012

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Step 1: Switch main dashboard switch to “off” position (Ignition& light switch) Step 2: Disconnect negative (ground) cable from the Battery Step 3: Remove the Condenser and Breaker points from the circuit breaker timing base. Step 4: Disconnect advance/ retard cable from timing base Step 5: Remove timing base from timer shaft and housing (see your manual for instructions) Step 6: Remove circuit breaker wire stud or circuit breaker to coil wire assembly from timing base Step 7: Remove circuit breaker wire from Ignition coil, and mark terminal on coil with piece of tape. Step 8: Install the Electronic Ignition Module on the timing base. Mount this short black wire to one on the timer base screws by keeping some slack in this wire so the timing base can turn free. Solder the flag terminal to this short black wire and mount it under the timer to motor bolt. This way of mounting provides a much better grounding. Do NOT use the screws (number 1 or 2 screws from picture below) from the timing base!!!! Step 9: Now three wires pass this hole via the rubber grommet. Figure 1 Figure 2 Step 10: Reinstall the timer base on the timer shaft housing, and keep some slack in the wires before protruding the hole in the timer shaft housing, and secure with ground spring and cover retainer. Reconnect the advance/retard cable to the timer base. Step 11: Route the two long wires to the ignition coil. Check in the HD service manual for a proper route to the ignition coil. (Keep away from hot surfaces like exhaust systems). Cut the wires to the exact length necessary for mounting. Step 12: Determine the exact length of the wire loom. Keep in mind that one end of the loom enters the timer shaft housing by 1cm. Cut the loom to the proper length. Step 13: Insert both wires in the loom. Strip both wire ends and solder the two flag terminals on the wires. Step 14: Connect the red wire to the ignition coil, on the terminal where the 6 or 12 volt is supplied to. This terminal has at minimum one wire connected which runs to the main switch. Step 15: Connect the black wire to the ignition coil on the terminal which is empty, and has piece of tape on it. (Old place where the circuit breaker wire was connected to) Step 16: Install the trigger rotor on the timer shaft cam, and tighten the hex screw by using the hex key tool. Do not over tighten the screw! Step 17: Check for clearance between trigger rotor and Electronic Ignition Module. Appropriate clearance is between 0,5mm and 1,5mm . Minor adjustments can be made by unlocking the two screws and slightly shift/move the Electronic Ignition Module. Check if the rotor moves free. Timing instructions: Remove the spark plugs from the engine, but keep them connected to the spark coil cables and engine ground. This enables normal operation of the spark, and prevents unwanted engine firing on compression stroke. See service manual or handbook for timing instructions of your model Step 18: Reconnect the negative (ground) cable to the battery. Step 19: Switch main power to “on” position. The red light in the Electronic Ignition Module might already light up. If not, turn the kick starter slowly. The red light is on while charging (closed points)the Ignition coil, facing solid metal of the trigger rotor. The light goes off (open points) when the end of the solid surface of the trigger rotor passes the centre of the Electronic Ignition Module. At that point a spark is generated by the coil

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KTM 3V TURBO DRIVE MODEL 9808T KNEE FEED Installation and Removal Manual

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Filed Under (KTM) by admin on 28-01-2012

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Gather together the following items that you will need to complete this installation. a) lathe b) 3/8″ electric hand drill c) 9/32″ diameter transfer punch SERVO Turbo Drive Model 9808T Page 2 d) .4375 drill, 3/16″ drill, #7 drill e) 1/4-20 tap f) 3/4″ socket wrench g) set of inch hex wrenches h) clean shop rag Step 2: Clean the power feed mounting area completely. Step 3: Remove the drive clutch nut and the drive clutch from the elevating jack shaft. Step 4: Remove the dial nut, dial, and dial carrier. Keep the dial for reuse later. Step 5: Remove the existing bearing retainer. Keep the screws for reuse later. Step 6: Pull jack shaft out of knee. Hold inboard end up while removing to avoid damage to the pinion gear. Step 7: Press the bearing off the jack shaft. Step 8: Drill and ream the end of the jack shaft .4375″ diameter by 13/16″ deep. The .4375″ dia. must be concentric to the shaft O.D. within .002″ T.I.R. Chamfer 1/32″ x 1/2″ diameter. For best results, machining should be done in a lathe. Step 9: Place the shaft extension #6975 into the end of the jack shaft. Finish drill 3/16″ diameter through the shaft and pin the extension with the 3/16″ diameter x 5/8″ long roll pin. File smooth. Step 10: Reassemble and replace the jack shaft in the machine. Step 11: Replace the existing bearing retainer with #57904 retainer provided. Secure using existing screws. Step 12: Slip spacer #5426 and bearing race #1616 onto the jack shaft. Slide the adaptor #0771 over the bearing race and locate against front of the knee.

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Toyota Power Steering Conversion Kit Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Toyota Manuals) by admin on 04-10-2011

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Remove the stock steering box and column. Be sure to clear the area of all wiring, brake lines and fuel lines. 2. Bolt the Toyota box to the mounting bracket so that the long arm of the bracket points in the same direction as the steering column input shaft (small shaft.) To mount the bracket and box correctly, the longer end should be towards the rear of the vehicle. It may be necessary to grind on the power steering box where the two flanges protrude above the bracket. For technical help call Classic Performance Products Monday thru Friday 8:30am to 5:00pm at (714) 522-2000. Rev. 8/17/2009 3. Locate the box/bracket assembly into the frame by centering the Toyota sector shaft through the original hole in the frame. This hole will need to be elongated approximately 3/8″ to allow the sector shaft to clear the frame. Bolt the bracket directly into the mounting holes for the original steering box. 4. With the first bolt in, check the fit by reattaching the steering box. Make sure the splined shaft goes through the frame without interference. Torque down the mounting bolts to 45 lbs. 5. Attach the pitman arm to the steering box. Before this is done the steering sector must be centered. Turn the input shaft clockwise as far as it can go. Make a reference mark. Now turn the shaft counter clockwise as far it can go and be sure to count the turns. Turn the shaft back half the distance and now the box is centered. Be sure to double and triple check this procedure. Attach the pitman arm to the output shaft with the output shaft nut. Torque the bolt down to 110ft/lbs. Reconnect the stock drag link and you are on your way

1953 Toyota Ford Truck Power Steering Conversion Kit Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Toyota Manuals) by admin on 01-10-2011

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of all wiring, brake lines and fuel lines. 2. Bolt the Toyota box to the mounting bracket so that the long arm of the bracket points in the same direction as the steering column input shaft (small shaft.) To mount the bracket and box correctly, the longer end should be towards the rear of the vehicle. It may be necessary to grind on the power steering box where the two flanges protrude above the bracket. For technical help call Classic Performance Products Monday thru Friday 8:30am to 5:00pm at (714) 522-2000. Rev. 8/17/2009 3. Locate the box/bracket assembly into the frame by centering the Toyota sector shaft through the original hole in the frame. This hole will need to be elongated approximately 3/8″ to allow the sector shaft to clear the frame. Bolt the bracket directly into the mounting holes for the original steering box. 4. With the first bolt in, check the fit by reattaching the steering box. Make sure the splined shaft goes through the frame without interference. Torque down the mounting bolts to 45 lbs. 5. Attach the pitman arm to the steering box. Before this is done the steering sector must be centered. Turn the input shaft clockwise as far as it can go. Make a reference mark. Now turn the shaft counter clockwise as far it can go and be sure to count the turns. Turn the shaft back half the distance and now the box is centered. Be sure to double and triple check this procedure. Attach the pitman arm to the output shaft with the output shaft nut. Torque the bolt down to 110ft/lbs. Reconnect the stock drag link and you are on your wa