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Harley Davidson Softails Airtail Suspension System Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 30-11-2010

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Step 1: Set the Bottoming Control This is the most important step and needs to be done first. Ideally, with the rear wheel off the ground take a measurement from the axle straight up to a fixed point on the fender (assuming the fender is mounted on the frame and not the swingarm). Then, with the motorcycle back on the ground and the rider on it, pressurize the “Bottoming Control” chamber until you get the same measurement —less 1 ¼ to 1 ½”. For example, if your first measurement was 10.0″ inches then your ending measurement should be between 8.50″ and 8.75″ inches. The difference between the two measurements is referred to as “sag”, and it should equal approximately one third of your total wheel travel (see figure 3). Another method of achieving the proper sag is it start with the bike on the ground — with no rider or load on it. Pressurize the “Bottoming Control” chamber to the highest pressure you can without exceeding 150 psi. At this point the rear wheel should be “topped out” and you need to measure from the axle straight up to a fixed point on the fender as described above. Take the same measurement with rider(s) on the bike — ready to ride. The second measurement should be 1¼” to 1½ ” less than the first. If it isn’t, then bleed off the pressure in the “Bottoming Control” chamber until the proper sag is achieved. If you intend to ride the bike at this “full height” then make sure you still put about 10 psi into the “Ride Height” chamber anyway. This helps the piston that separates the two chambers to move more freely producing a smoother ride. Step 2: Set the Ride Height After you have set the “Bottoming Control” you can now adjust the “Ride Height” chamber. This is a much simpler and less crucial adjustment to make. Simply pressurize the “Ride Height” chamber until the bike is lowered to the desired height. To raise the ride height back up, release pressure in the “Ride Height” chamber. Remember, the pressure in this chamber “holds” the bike down—the more pressure the lower it goes. Though the bike may feel “stiffer” the lower you go, do NOT re-adjust the “Bottoming Control” chamber. Essentially what’s happening here is as you’ve reduced your wheel travel, you’ve proportionally increased the forces that keep you from bottoming out with what wheel travel you have left. If you do need to re-adjust the “Bottoming Control” due the addition (or subtraction) of a passenger or extra load, release the pressure from the “Ride Height” chamber first, then repeat step 1.

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ATK 50MX INSTALLATION AND ADJUSTMENT TIPS

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Filed Under (Atk) by admin on 01-11-2010

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PRELOAD ADJUSTMENT— On some Works shocks a threaded preload is standard. This allows the adjustment of the ride height of the motorcycle. The preload is changed by turning a threaded nut down towards the spring (higher ride height) or up away from the spring (lower ride height). The nut is a right-hand thread. CHECKING RIDE HEIGHT— 1. With the bike unloaded on the side stand and the shock fully extended, have an assistant measure from a point at the axle (center point) to a point on the frame, fender or bodywork directly above it. Record this measurement. 2. With the bike off the stand and the rider in the seat, bounce on the suspension and let the bike settle. Have the assistant measure from the same two points. Subtract the second measurement from the first. HM CRX50 / BAJA & ATK 50MX INSTALLATION AND ADJUSTMENT TIPS Continued on next page. #HM50 – 5/27/99 #HM50 – 5/27/99 To Front Valve Mounting channel Spacer Flange Shock eye Top View of Shock Mount Fig. 1 Top view of upper shock mount. The flange on the shock bushing must face toward the spacer. The valve should point toward the front of the bike Fig. 1 Top view of upper shock mount. The flange on the shock bushing must face toward the spacer. The valve should point toward the front of the bike 3. The amount of settle, or “sag” is a function of the wheel travel. It should only be between 1/4 and 1/3 of the total travel. 4. If the difference is less than the minimum, reduce the spring preload. Measure the distance again starting with Step 2. Adjust again if necessary. 5. If the difference is more than the maximum, increase the spring preload. Measure the distance again starting with Step 2. Adjust again if necessary. Note: If the ride height is too low, the shock will bottom unnecessarily, resulting in a harsh ride. If the ride height is too high, the shock will “top out” too easily when rebounding from a bump or under hard deceleration. NITROGEN PRESSURES IN EMULSION SHOCKS CAUTION: The pressure in these shocks cannot successfully be checked. Concerns with the gauge volume and the gas volume in the shock body create a situation where you cannot accurately determine what pressure was in the shock. In addition when the pressure is lowered (i.e. checking the pressure) the gas and some of the shock oil escapes into the gauge. It is possible to lose a large percentage of the shock oil by depressing the core of a charged shock to the atmosphere. Please note that in order to check the pressure, some of the gas must escape and fill the gauge assembly. The volume of the gas pocket is about half the size of your thumb, so a very small volume change results in a large pressure drop. Because the gauges’ volumes vary, it is not possible to deduce the actual pressure in the shock prior to attaching the gauge. Therefore it is imperative that any attempt to check pressure be accompanied by the capability of refilling the shock. In other words: If you don’t have a nitrogen source handy, don’t check the pressure! PRESSURIZING EMULSION SHOCKS The pressure setting for Works gas shocks is 250 p.s.i. of dry nitrogen. To pressurize a shock with some residual pressure in it, bring the gauge manifold up to 250 p.s.i. and depress the core with the T-handle. This will either equalize the pressure or refill the shock without transferring oil from the shock into the gauge assembly. The best gauges for this purpose screw on to the valve and incorporate a T-handled core depressor to isolate the shock from the gauge. This allows a leak-free separation once the desired pressure is reached. For simplified operation, an extra valve is provided for the filling apparatus, allowing pressure adjustment with the gauge in place. Works offers a suitable gauge and filling manifold. Most motorcycle shops that deal with dirt bikes can pressurize the shock

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HARLEY DAVIDSON "LIVE TO RIDE" HANDLEBAR GRIPS INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 02-03-2011

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installation Do not lubricate the left grip of handlebar in any way before installation. This could allow grip to come off while riding which could result in loss of control of vehicle and death or serious injury. 1. Remove existing left handlebar grip by carefully cutting it away from the handlebar using a sharp blade or knife. Remove right grip/throttle sleeve assembly following instructions in appropriate Service Manual. After removal, make sure that left and right handlebar ends are clean and smooth. 2. Check that end caps are securely fastened to grips. Tighten screw inside grip to secure end caps. 3. Assemble new throttle sleeve to handlebar. Refer to appropriate Service Manual for detailed procedure. NOTE Surfaces to be glued must be clean, dry, and free from oil. If surfaces are not clean, dry, and free from oil, then the new application may not adhere as desired. Please observe the following WARNINGS when using the adhesive contained in this kit. FLAMMABLE, INJURIOUS TO EYES, HARMFUL IF SWALLOWED, VAPOR HARMFUL. FLAMMABLE: CONTAINS METHYL ETHYL KETONE. Use only in well ventilated areas. Avoid contact with eyes, mucous membranes, and prolonged skin contact. KEEP OUT OF REACH OF CHILDREN. If swallowed, do not induce vomiting. Call a physician immediately. This product contains a chemical(s) known to the State of California to cause cancer, birth defects or other reproductive harm. 4. Liberally apply a coating of Harley-Davidson Adhesive (Part No. 99839-95) to the inside of left handlebar grip using the cotton swab. Make sure adhesive fully covers all inside surface area of the grip. Also, apply a coat of adhesive to the handlebar end. 5. Check how the rectangular pattern is oriented on the throttle (right) grip. Align pattern on left grip to match right grip and immediately push the new grip completely onto handlebar end. 6. Rotate the end caps so the “Live to Ride”text is positioned at the top of both grips. NOTE Do not hesitate when installing left grip or adhesive will dry before installation is complete. Allow 6-8 hours at 70°F to achieve full cure of the adhesive. Prior to starting engine, verify that the throttle control will snap back to the idle position when released. A throttle control that prevents the engine from automatically returning to idle can lead to a loss of control of vehicle which could result in death or serious injury. Cleaning

Sherco Engine Teardown and Assembly Manual/ Engine Removal and Case Splitting

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Filed Under (Sherco) by admin on 25-11-2010

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Remove: a. rear fender- two bolts plus one long with washer using 4mm Allen b. fuel tank hose from petcock c. fuel tank- one short bolt and washer using 4mm Allen d. chain master link and chain from front sprocket e. kick starter- one large button head bolt and washer f. rear brake- one bolt/washer using 13mm wrench g. rear brake master cylinder- 2 button head bolts h. gear shifter- one bolt i. flywheel cover – 3 bolts j. clutch slave cylinder- two button head bolts using 4mm Allen k. clutch actuating rod by pulling it out of the case l. airbox three 4mm Allen bolts and loosening Phillips head carb hose clamp m. carburetor cap /slide assembly n. carburetor by loosening Phillips head manifold hose clamp o. spark plug cap p. spark plug q. header pipe 2 bolts into cylinder head r. silencer- 3 bolts (one with washer and nut using 10mm wrench ) s. cylinder head coolant hose clamp and hose t. rear shock upper bolt u. radiator plastic cover bolt, then lever up the radiator with screwdriver until the radiator “legs” pop out of frame retaining holes 5. Remove flywheel using flywheel puller tool, taking care not to lose the small Woodruff key by placing it inside of the magnetic flywheel for safe storage. 6. Remove ignition (3 bolts) and slide rubber grommet and ignition wiring assemblyout of the case and out of the way, taking special note of the ignition timing marks. 7. Remove front sprocket and 2 retaining circlips. 8. Remove clutch side case and its 10 bolts using 5mm Allen, being careful not to lose to lose the 2 aluminum alignment pins (dowel pins). Insert the dowel pins into their holes within the Right Crankcase.

1999 – 2003 1.25, 2.0, 2.5 and 2.9 Sherco Ignition Timing Removal And Installation Manual

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Filed Under (Sherco) by admin on 20-04-2011

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Remove the gear shift lever bolt by using a 5mm Allen wrench. Insert the wrench through the hole in the skid plate. Holding the gear shifter up in second gear makes it easier to align the wrench into the head of the bolt. Pull the gear shift lever as far as possible towards the chain. (The chain does not have to be removed in order to remove the ignition cover and flywheel) Remove the three ignition cover bolts by using a 4mm Allen wrench. Carefully remove the ignition cover-which requires a little twisting and some outward pressure on the gear shift lever. The shift lever may also have to be pressed down into the first gear position. Inspect the rubber ring gasket for cracks or cuts while the ignition cover is off. Replace if necessary. We recommended applying a ring of high grade silicone sealant to further improve the seal of the rubber ring gasket. Tap a chisel-mark across the flywheel retaining nut and the crankshaft by using a small, sharp chisel. This mark serves as a reference point for retightening the flywheel in its original position during reassembly.

Sherco Engine Engine Removal and Case Splitting Manual

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Filed Under (Sherco) by admin on 20-04-2011

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Engine Removal and Case Splitting Preparation 1. Wash the bike and engine thoroughly. 2. Drain transmission oil by removing drain bolt and copper washer with 5mm Allen. 3. Drain coolant by removing 3 bolts of water pump cover and lifting off engine side case.4. Remove: a. rear fender- two bolts plus one long with washer using 4mm Allen b. fuel tank hose from petcock c. fuel tank- one short bolt and washer using 4mm Allen d. chain master link and chain from front sprocket e. kick starter- one large button head bolt and washer f. rear brake- one bolt/washer using 13mm wrench g. rear brake master cylinder- 2 button head bolts h. gear shifter- one bolt i. flywheel cover – 3 bolts j. clutch slave cylinder- two button head bolts using 4mm Allen k. clutch actuating rod by pulling it out of the case l. airbox three 4mm Allen bolts and loosening Phillips head carb hose clamp m. carburetor cap/slide assembly n. carburetor by loosening Phillips head manifold hose clamp o. spark plug cap p. spark plug q. header pipe 2 bolts into cylinder head r. silencer- 3 bolts (one with washer and nut using 10mm wrench) s. cylinder head coolant hose clamp and hose t. rear shock upper bolt u. radiator plastic cover bolt, then lever up the radiator with screwdriver until the radiator “legs” pop out of frame retaining holes 5. Remove flywheel using flywheel puller tool, taking care not to lose the small Woodruff
key by placing it inside of the magnetic flywheel for safe storage. 6. Remove ignition (3 bolts) and slide rubber grommet and ignition wiring assembly out of the case and out of the way, taking special note of the ignition timing marks. 7. Remove front sprocket and 2 retaining circlips. 8. Remove clutch side case and its 10 bolts using 5mm Allen, being careful not to lose to lose the 2 aluminum alignment pins (dowel pins). Insert the dowel pins into their holes within the Right Crankcase

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HONDA CT110 OWNERS MANUAL

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 22-04-2011

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ENGINE OIL Engine Oil Level Check Check the engine oil level each day before riding the motorcycle. The level must be maintained between the upper (2) and lower (3) marks on the dipstick (1). 1. Start the engine and let it idle for a few minutes. 2. Stop the engine and hold the motorcycle in an upright position on firm, level ground. 3. After a few minutes, remove the oil filler cap/dipstick, wipe it clean, and reinsert the dipstick without screwing it in. The oil level should be between the upper and lower marks on the dipstick. 4. If required, add the specified oil up to the upper level mark. Do not overfill. 5. Reinstall the oil filler cap/dipstick, check for oil leaks. CAUTION Running the engine with insufficient oil can cause serious engine damage. TYRES Proper air pressure will provide maximum stability, riding comfort and tire life. Check tire pressure frequently and adjust if necessary. NOTE Tire pressure should be checked before you ride while the tyres are cold. Select the right replacement tire in accordance with the following specifications: Cold tire pressures kPa ( kg/cm2, psi ) Front: 175 ( 1.75, 25 ) Rear : 225 ( 2.25, 33 ) Tire size Front: 2.75 – 17 41P Rear : 2.75 – 17 41P Check the tires for cuts, embedded nails, ore other sharp objects. See your authorized Honda Dealer for replacement of damaged tires or punctured inner tubes OPERATION PRE-RIDE INSPECTION WARNING If the Pre-ride Inspection is not performed, serious damage or an accident may result. Inspect your motorcycle very day before you ride it. The items listed here will only take a few minutes to check, and in the long run they can save time, expense and possibly you life. 1. Engine oil level – add engine oil if required. Check for leaks. 2. Fuel level – fill the fuel tank when necessary. Check for leaks. 3. Brakes – check operation. Adjust free play if necessary. 4. Tyres – check condition and pressure. 5. Drive chain – check condition and slack. Adjust and lubricate if necessary. 6. Throttle – check for smooth opening and full closing in all steering positions. 7. Lights – check that headlight, tail/brake light, turn signals, indicators. 8. Engine stop switch – check for proper function. 9. Battery electrolyte – check the level and add if necessary Correct any discrepancy before you ride. Contact your authorized Honda dealer for assistance if you cannot correct the proble

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HARLEY DAVIDSON SOFTAIL ULTIMA STYLE ADJUSTABLE SHOCKS MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 03-03-2011

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ADJUSTING SPRING PRELOAD (STIFFNESS). NOTE: Shocks typically come set at their loosest (softest) setting. Adjustment range is approximately 4 full rotations. Step 1: Loosen preload adjustment locknut. (see fig. 1) Step 2: Using supplied special tool with a 3/8 ratchet, turn adjusting plate clockwise to stiffen preload & counter-clockwise to loosen preload. (see fig. 2) Step 3: Once preload has been set, lock down preload adjusting nut using blue (med strength) thread locker ADJUSTING RIDE HEIGHT. NOTE: Extending shock assembly lowers frame/fender height. Shortening shock assembly will raise frame/fender height. NOTE: Always check clearances during & after adjusting ride height. Step 1: Loosen ride height adjusting locknut. (see fig. 3) Step 2: Rotate end to desired height. Always leave at least 1 inch of threads engaged in the female threaded shaft. (see fig. 4) Step 3: Lock down ride height adjusting locknut using blue (med strength) threadlocker. (see fig. 5) Step 4: After adjusting ride height on both shocks, verify that they are the same length by measuring from their mounting points. (see fig. 6)

Harley Davidson Installing The Ride Time Ultra Progressive Tour Pak LED Tail Lights

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 31-10-2010

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Remove the light bulbs from the tail light housing by depressing the tab on the bulb socket assembly and turning counter clockwise. Remove the bulb from the bulb socket. 2. Remove the lenses from the warp-around light fixture. These lens are held in place by a non-hardening black sealant. In addition, there are three plastic alignment tabs on the lens body that clip into the lens frame. To remove the lens, insert the supplied push Stick through the hole in the back of the light bulb housing and gently but firmly push the lens outward. This action places a stress on the alignment tabs. 3 . Using a flat blade screw driver, pry the lens away from the frame at the top, side, and bottom to release the lens alignment tabs. Go back to step 2, and use the plastic tube to push the lens outward. It may be necessary to repeat the prying process and pushing process several times to remove the lens. Note: Some users have found it useful to heat the lens area with a hair dryer to soften the adhesive. Included in this kit are: Left and Right LED modules, 1 RTQC Quick Connect Accessory Cable , 2 RTV application sticks, 1 push stick, Approximately 3 inches of shrink tube, and 1 copy of instructions. Required for installation, but not included are: A tube of Permatex RTV (available at Wal-Mart), 1/8 inch drill bit, a drill, small flat blade screwdriver, other hand tools. Window/ body sealer if required to reseat lenses can be obtained at your local glass shop. Tour Pak, Harley Davidson, Electraglide, Raod King, and Ultraglide are registered trade marks of Harley David- son. Harley Davidson does not make or endorse the use of these lights. 4. When the lens begins to emerge from the frame, grasp it at the top and bottom and pull the lens from the housing using a up and down motion. Set the lens aside . Avoid having the sealant contact other surfaces. In most cases, the lens can be reinstalled without adding additional sealant . Note: Do not use RTV to reset the lens. If sealant is needed obtain a non-hardening body/windshield sealant from your local glass shop. 6. When you are comfortable with the location of the circuit board, drill a 1/8 inch hole in the back of the light housing. This hole will be used to bring the turn signal wire from the LED module into the Tour Pak. 7. Using the supplied stick, spread a thin layer of Permatex clear RTV silicone seal along the area where the circuit board will be located. Apply a similar layer to the top of the light housing. Route the turn signal wire through the 1/8″ hole and position the circuit board in the housing. Allow the RTV to cure. 5. Test fit the LED light board in the light housing.

WORKS PERFORMANCE STREET TRACKER SHOCKS FOR BIG DOG MOTORCYCLES

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 17-12-2010

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SHOCK REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION– The shocks are fitted with special length spacers to maintain correct alignment between the frame and the swingarm. If the shocks are removed for service or repair, they must be installed in the correct position. Refer to the diagram on the next page for spacer positioning and layout. NOTE: Misalignment between the mounts on the frame and the mounts on the swingarm can cause binding between the shock shaft and shaft bushing. Misalignment of more than 1/4 inch can cause the shocks to bind up and not function properly. If this binding occurs, the shocks will feel overly stiff and harsh. Follow the procedures below to check for misalignment when installing the shocks. NOTE: The shock bushings are designed to have a certain side-to-side “float” to keep them from binding. As a result, do not grind or file the inner or outer edges of the bushings to make them narrower. The amount of “float” in the bushing set is necessary to ensure smooth operation of the damper assembly. If the shock eyes are tightened metal-to-metal (the outer faces of the eyes to the flanges or washers), this will lead to a harsh, stiff or choppy ride and premature seal leakage or damage to the shafts. MULTI-RATE SPRINGS Depending on each application, single or dual-rate springs are available. Dual-rate springs are just that– a spring set with two separate rates. This is done with a short spring stacked on a longer spring. As both springs compress they produce a soft, or initial, rate. The spring set will maintain this initial rate until the short spring stops compressing. At that point, the spring rate “crosses over” to the stiffer, or final, rate. This multi-rate system allows a soft initial rate for comfort on small bumps, but has the capability of soaking up the big pot-holes and other road hazards. PRELOAD ADJUSTMENT— On Works shocks, threaded preload is standard. (See Fig. 2.) This allows the adjustment of the ride height of the motorcycle. The preload is changed by turning a threaded nut down towards the spring (higher ride height) or up away from the spring (lower ride height). The nut is a right-hand thread. It is used primarily to set the ride height for solo riding, but can also be used when

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