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Vespa GTS Super Specification

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Filed Under (Vespa) by admin on 11-11-2010

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Gts super 300 ie Gts super 125 ie s 125cc s 50cc Gts 250 ie Gts 125cc LX 125cc LX 50cc 2 stroke Engine Single-cylinder, catalised, QUASAR 4 stroke, 4 valve electronic injection Single-cylinder LEADER 4 stroke with electronic injection Single-cylinder LEADER 4 stroke Single-cylinder HI-PER 2 stroke Single-cylinder, catalised, QUASAR 4 stroke, 4 valve electronic injection Single-cylinder, catalised, LEADER 4 stroke, 4 valve Single-cylinder LEADER 4 stroke Single-cylinder HI-PER 2 stroke Capacity 278cc 124cc 124cc 50cc 249cc 124cc 124cc 49cc Power 16.4 kW / 7500 rpm 10.5 Kw / 9500 rpm 7.65 Kw / 8250 rpm 3.2 Kw / 7500 rpm 15.7 Kw / 8500 rpm 7.65 Kw / 8250 rpm 7.65 Kw / 8250 rpm 2.5 Kw / 8500 rpm Max Torque 22Nm / 6500 rpm 12 Nm / 8000rpm 9.6 Nm / 7250 rpm 4.4 Nm / 6500 rpm 20.1 Nm / 6500 rpm 9.6 Nm / 7250 rpm 9.6 Nm / 7250 rpm 3.3 Nm / 6500 rpm Cooling Liquid Liquid Forced Air Forced Air Liquid Liquid Forced Air Forced Air Starter Electric Electric Electric and kick starter Electric and kick starter Electric Electric Electric and kick starter Electric and kick starter Transmission Automatic twist and go Automatic twist and go Automatic twist and go Automatic twist and go Automatic twist and go Automatic twist and go Automatic twist and go Automatic twist and go Front Suspension Single arm, dual chamber hydraulic shock absorber with coaxial spring Single arm link with coil spring and double hydraulic shock absorber Single arm link with coil spring and double hydraulic shock absorber Single arm link with coil spring and double hydraulic shock absorber Single sided trailing link with hydraulic shock absorber Single sided trailing link with hydraulic shock absorber Single sided trailing link with hydraulic shock absorber Single sided trailing link with hydraulic shock absorber Rear Suspension Two dual effect shock absorbers with adjustable preload Coil spring and double hydraulic shock absorber Coil spring and double hydraulic shock absorber Coil spring and double hydraulic shock absorber Twin hydraulic shock absorbers with preload adjuster Twin hydraulic shock absorbers with preload adjuster Hydraulic shock absorbers with preload adjuster Hydraulic shock absorber Front Brake ø 220mm disc brake 220mm disc brake ø 200mm disc brake ø 200mm disc brake ø 220mm disc brake ø 220mm disc brake ø 200mm disc brake ø 200mm disc brake Rear Brake ø 220mm disc brake 220mm disc brake ø 110mm drum brake ø 110mm drum brake ø 220mm disc brake ø 220mm disc brake ø 110mm drum brake ø 110mm drum brake Front Tyre Tubeless 120/70-12″ Tubeless 120/70 – 12″ Tubeless 110/70 – 11″ Tubeless 110/70 – 11″ Tubeless 120/70-12″ Tubeless 120/70-12″ Tubeless 110/70 – 11″ Tubeless 110/70-11″ Rear Tyre Tubeless 130/70-12″ Tubeless 130/70 – 12″ Tubeless 120/70 – 10″ Tubeless 120/70 – 10″ Tubeless 130/70-12″ Tubeless 130/70-12″ Tubeless 120/70 – 10″ Tubeless 120/70-10″ Running weight 158kg 158kg 114kg 96kg 151kg 145kg 114kg 96kg Length/Width/Height 2230mm / 755mm / 1170mm 1930mm / 755mm / 1930mm 1770mm / 740mm / 1140mm 1755mm / 740mm / 1140mm 1930mm / 755mm / 1170 mm 1940mm / 755mm / 1180 mm 1770mm / 740mm / 1140mm 1755mm / 740mm / 1140mm Fuel Tank Capacity 9 litres 9 litres 8.5 litres 8.5 litres 9.2 litres 10 litres 8.5 litres 8.5 litres Emmissions Euro 3 Euro 3 Euro 3 Euro 2 Euro 3 Euro 3 Euro 3 Euro 2 Colours Rosso Dragon Nero Lucido Montebianco Rosso Dragon Nero Lucido Montebianco Taormina Nero Lucido Montebianco Taormina Nero Lucido Montebianco Marrone Terra Di Toscana Bronzo Perseo Nero Vulcano Blu Midnight

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HARLEY DAVIDSON FLHT OIL PRESSURE AND AIR TEMPERATURE GAUGE KIT INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 08-02-2011

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INSTALLATION Oil Pressure Sending Unit To prevent accidental vehicle start-up, which could cause death or serious injury, disconnect negative (-) battery cable before proceeding. (00048a) 1. Refer to the Service Manual and follow the instructions given to remove the seat and disconnect the battery cables, negative (-) cable first. 1 2 3 4 is04574 1. Oil pressure sending unit 2. Cam position sensor 3. Crank position sensor 4. Main harness to ECM Figure 1. Electrical Bracket: 2000-2001 Fuel Injected Models (Magnetti-Marelli) 1 2 3 is04575 1. Oil pressure sending unit 2. Crankshaft position sensor 3. P&A siren kit Figure 2. Electrical Bracket (ECM Removed) 2002-2003 Fuel Injected Models (Delphi) -J01875 1 of 4 NOTE For 2002 to 2003 models: See Figure 2. Remove the two screws securing the ECM and remove the ECM to access the electrical bracket. 2. For 2004 and later models: Proceed to the Gauges section. For 2000 to 2003 models: See Figure 1, Figure 2 and Figure 3 for the applicable model and locate the sensor harness connector (2-piece mini-Deutsch® connector). 3 2 4 1 is04576 1. Ignition harness 2. Cam position sensor 3. Oil pressure sending unit 4. Crankshaft position sensor Figure 3. Ignition Module – Carbureted Models 3. Locate the oil pressure sending unit at the front right side of the crankcase and pull wire socket from terminal of the oil pressure sending unit. 4. Carefully draw the conduit and the pin side of mini-Deutsch connector forward and then up between the rear brake master cylinder reservoir and the frame downtube to area of the rear brake pedal. 5. See Figure 4. Remove the secondary locking wedge (3) from the pin side of the connector with a needle nose pliers. 1 3 2 is04577 1. Pin 2. Wire seal 3. Locking wedge Figure 4. Deutsch Connector Pin Side (2-pin connector shown) 6. Gently depress terminal latches inside pin housing and back out the pin in chamber #1 through the hole in wire seal. 7. Pull the oil sending unit wire through conduit and remove wire. Note the routing of the wire. 8. See Figure 9. Route the jumper (6) pins through the conduit from the kit in the same direction as the original wire noted in Step 7. Use cable straps to secure to the wire bundle. 9. See Figure 5. Locate pin chambers #1 and #2 on pin side of connector. Insert brown/green jumper pin into chamber #2 and feed until it clicks into place. Verify that pin will not back out of the chamber by giving a slight tug on the wire to confirm that it is locked

Yamaha V-Star 1100 Custom and Classic cruisers Floorboard/ Footpeg Extension Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 09-11-2010

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Start on the right (brake) side. 1) Loosen the nut at the end of the brake rod. This will allow you to unscrew the brake rod from the brake lever clevis later. 2) Pull out the cotter pin and remove the pivot pin. Unscrew the clevis 3) Then using a 14mm socket or box-end wrench, remove the two bolts that hold the brake floorboard/footpeg assembly (whichever your bike has) to the frame. These bolts are torqued to 46 ft lbs, so this may be a bit difficult. 1. Loosen this nut 2. Remove the cotter pin (other side of this pivot pin) remove the pivot pin a unscrew the nut to remove the clevis nd 3. Remove these bolts When you remove the floorboard/footpeg bracket, be careful not to pull the brake switch wires loose. You may wish to cut the cable tie for more room, and then rest the bracket, with the footpeg or floorboard attached, on a short box, or block of wood, to keep it handy. Install the new brake rod, to the end of the existing brake rod. Re-install the pivot pin, and the pivot pin cotter pin. Installing the extension bar: Note that the extension bar is bolted so that it rises up in front. Use the new bolts to mount the floorboard/ footpeg bracket to the threaded holes in front. Install the Extension in the proper orientation (angled holes bolt up to the frame, with front of the bar higher than the rear – see photo) using the stock bolts for the extensions to the frame and the new bolts and washers supplied with the kit, on the forward threaded section to relocate the floorboard or footpeg bracket. The use of LocTite ® Blue here is recommended. At this point the right side Floorboard or Footpeg should be secured tightly and the brake lever hanging loose. Now install the Brake rod extension, threading the male end to the original brake rod. Don’t tighten this end yet Place the clevis over the forward most end of the brake rod extension, and threat the clevis nut onto the end of the rod. Bring the brake rod upright, to meet with the clevis at the end of the brake rod extension and replace the pivot pin. Before reinstalling the cotter pin, check the angle of the brake lever, to insure that you have the brake pedal where you want. If necessary, adjust the extension rod in or out, until you are satisfied, and then reinstall the cotter pin into the pivot pin. Check the Brake switch wire and install a new cable tie if required. Note: Due to utilizing a thicker material, 1/2″ versus 3/8″ from our competitor, the Brake rod is now positioned at a greater angle. Even with the angle, braking performance is not affected, but if you wish to bring the master cylinder in line with the brake rod, do this. Loosen the rear, and remove the front Allen bolt. Then place two washers behind the front bolt, under the bracket, and then re-install the bolts To change the angle of the brake rod, 1) loosen and remove the two master cylinder bracket Allen bolts 2) insert two washers behind the front bolt (front of the bike), behind the master cylinder bracket 3) tighten both bolts. Do not install any washers on the rear mounting hole. This will make the angle of the Brake Rod less aggressive. Step Two – Left Side For the left (Shifter) side, 1) use an open-end 10 mm wrench, to unscrew the two nuts that hold the shift rod in place. PLEASE note that one end of the shift rod has a left hand threaded nut. SAVE the nuts, as you will need them on the new longer Polished Stainless Steel Shift Rod. 2) Remove the stock shift rod. 3) Then using a 14mm socket or box-end wrench, remove the two bolts that hold the shifter floorboard/footpeg assembly (whichever your bike has) to the frame.

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HARLEY DAVIDSON DUAL DISC FRONT BRAKE KIT REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 07-03-2011

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This kit is designed for installation on the following models which have original equipment 39mm front fork tubes (including chromed tubes) and 19-in. cast-aluminum front wheels: • 2000 – 2003 XLH 883, XLH 883 Hugger and XLH 1200 • 2000 – 2003 FXD (Super Glide) This kit can also be installed on the above XLH and FXD models which have original equipment 39mm front fork tubes and 19-in. laced front wheels only after one of the following procedures is performed: • The original single-flange hub of the 19-in laced front wheel is replaced with a new double-flange hub (H-D Part No. 43629-00), (sold separately) which will accept the second brake disc. OR • The original 19-in. laced front wheel assembly, which has a single-flange hub, is replaced with a new 19-in. laced front wheel assembly (H-D Part No. 43579-00), (sold separately) which has a double-flange hub designed to accept the second brake disc. See the Service Parts Illustration for a list of the contents included in this kit. This kit does not include the front brake line required for a dual disc system; the brake line must be purchased separately as follows: • For XLH 883 motorcycle equipped with low-rise (flat) handlebars, order dual disc brake line H-D Part No. 45148-96. • For XLH 883 Hugger, XLH 1200, and FXD Super Glide models with “buckhorn” (pull-back) handlebars, order dual disc brake line H-D Part No. 45111-96. The rider’s safety depends upon the correct installation of this kit. Use the appropriate service manual procedures. If the procedure is not within your capabilities or you do not have the correct tools, have a Harley-Davidson dealer perform the installation. Improper installation of this kit could result in death or serious injury. (00333a) Brakes are a critical safety component. Contact a Harley- Davidson dealer for brake repair or replacement. Improperly serviced brakes can adversely affect brake performance, which could result in death or serious injury. (00054a) Removal and Disassembly – Front Brake System NOTE A Service Manual for your motorcycle is available at your Harley-Davidson Dealer. 1. Block motorcycle underneath frame so that front wheel is raised off the ground slightly. 2. Remove original front brake caliper from left side of front fork according to appropriate Service Manual procedures. Let caliper hang loose on brake line. Save all components and fasteners for reinstallation. NOTE Do not operate the front brake lever with the front caliper removed because the piston may be forced from the caliper. Reseating the piston requires disassembly of the caliper . 3. Remove socket head screw which secures a clamp (retains front brake line) to underside of front fork lower bracket (lower triple clamp). Discard clamp and screw. 4. Remove screw, lockwasher, and clamp which secure front brake line to right rear side of front fork upper bracket (upper triple clamp). Save all components for reinstallation. 5. Remove right mirror and, if applicable, right turn signal lamp assembly from original front brake master cylinder casting. Save all components and fasteners for reinstalla- tion.

2010 KAWASAKI SUPER SHERPA DUAL PURPOSE Specifications

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 05-11-2010

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Engine type Four-stroke, DOHC, 4-valve single Displacement 249cc Bore x stroke 72.0 x 61.2 mm Compression ratio 9.3:1 Cooling Air Fuel system Mikuni BST34 carburetor Ignition Digital DC-CDI Transmission 6-speed Final drive Chain Frame Tubular semi-double cradle, high-tensile steel Rake/trail 28˚/107 mm (4.2 in.) Front suspension/ wheel travel Telescopic fork/230 mm (9.1 in.) Rear suspension/ wheel travel UNI-TRAK® single shock system Adjustable Preload and 20-way Rebound Damping Adjustment/186 mm (7.3 in.) Tire, front 2.75×21 Tire, rear 4.10×18 Brakes, front 2-piston, Single disc Brakes, rear Single piston, Single disc Length, width, height 2080 x 780 x 1190 mm (81.9 x 30.7 x 46.9 in.) Seat height 830 mm (32.7 in.) Wheelbase 1375 mm (54.1 in.) Ground clearance 270 mm (10.6 in.) Fuel capacity 9.0 litres (2.0 gal.) Curb weight* 128 kg (282.2 lbs.) Warranty 12 month

2008 Kawasaki ZG1400 Concours ABS Front 3-Line Kit and FK003D625R Single Line Rear INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 29-01-2011

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Step 1: Identify the key components that complete our front brake line kit: You should have three (3) hoses, one (1) double banjo bolt, and two (2) single banjo bolts There are also a total of nine (9) washers and (3) brass conic inversors. Seven (7) washers and two (2) inversors will be used; the rest are spares. If you have purchased a rear kit as well, locate the following additional pieces: One (1) hose with bracket and c-clip attached, one (1) single banjo bolt, two (2) brass inversors and three (3) washers. You will use one (1) “olive” conic inversor and two (2) washers, the rest are spares. Step 2: To ensure no paint damage from a brake fluid spill, completely cover the front end of the bike. This process can be messy, and brake fluid WILL drip! Step 3: After drying out the OEM brake system, uninstall stock hoses. On the front brake line kit, we are replacing three hoses and their respective blocks (see pictures 1-2 for blocks) . For the rear, we are replacing one hose from the master cylinder to the ABS hard line. Take note of how the stock system was routed, in case you need to reinstall it. Step 4: Locate Line A – This will travel from the master cylinder to the ABS Junction. (See picture 3) You will use a single banjo bolt and two washers at the master cylinder, and an “olive” inversor to thread female end to hard pipe for incoming ABS (right side). * We have replaced the block at the upper triple clamp with a c-clip; please use your stock bolt to thread this in. (See picture 4) Locate Line B – This will travel from the ABS Junction to the right caliper. First, thread the female end to the hard pipe for outgoing ABS (left side). There will be a bolt from the OEM blocks at ABS Junction; please use this to thread c-clips into frame as shown in picture 5 . There is another bolt/OEM block located at the lower triple clamp; please use this to thread the c-clip in as seen in picture 6. Locate Line C – This will cross over the front fender using OEM holders, from right caliper to left caliper. Thread caliper banjos from Line B and C using the following sequence: double banjo hex, washer, 40- degree banjo from Line C, washer, 20-degree banjo from Line B, washer, caliper. Please see pictures 7 and 8 for reference. Thread single banjo bolt into left caliper, using two washers and 40-degree banjo. If applicable, locate rear Line D – this will travel from the rear master cylinder to the hard line for ABS. Thread the hard pipe into female end using a “olive” inversor, and attach bracket to swingarm as seen in picture 9 . Use the bolt from the holder for ABS hose, and sit our bracket on top of the OEM holder. Using the bolt from the OEM ABS hose holder in location shown in picture 10 , attach the c-clip on top of holder and tighten. Finally, thread 30-degree banjo in caliper using the following sequence: single banjo hex, washer, banjo, washer, caliper

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HARLEY DAVIDSON FL SOFTAIL REAR BRAKE LEVERS REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 24-03-2011

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REMOVAL 1. See Figure 1. Remove the cotter pin (5) and washer (E) from the master cylinder clevis pin (B). Discard the cotter pin. NOTE The clevis pin has a slight interference fit. It may be necessary to use pliers to pull the clevis pin from the push rod. Be careful not to damage mating parts. 2. Remove the clevis pin (B) from the brake rod. Thoroughly clean and examine parts for wear. Replace if necessary. 3. Remove the brake lever mounting screw (A) and flat washer (D), and save for reinstallation, if necessary. Remove and discard the outer O-ring (2). 4. Remove the brake lever by rotating counter-clockwise and lifting the master-cylinder clevis if necessary. Pull the lever from the shaft. Remove and discard the inner O-ring. 5. Thoroughly clean the lever mounting shaft of grease and dirt. INSTALLATION NOTE These levers are equipped with self-lubricating bushings. It is not necessary to lubricate the mounting shaft or bushings inside the lever prior to installation. 1. See Figure 1. Insert the new O-rings (4) on either side of the lever bushings (2). Install the new brake lever (1) onto the mounting shaft. NOTE There is insufficient clearance to install the clevis pin from the outside, so it must be installed from the inboard side of the brake lever. 2. Align the holes in the lever and brake rod and insert the stock clevis pin (B) from the inboard side. 3. Install the small flat washer (E) onto the clevis pin and insert the new cotter pin (5). 4. Place the large flat washer (D) onto the brake lever mounting screw (A). Apply Loctite 243 (blue) to the threads of the screw, and reinstall into the brake lever mounting shaft. Tighten the screw to 12-16 ft-lbs (16.3-21.7 Nm) . 5. Install the brake pedal pad (C) to the brake lever. After repairing the brake system, test brakes at low speed. If brakes are not operating properly, testing at high speeds can cause loss of control, which could result in death or serious injury. (00289a) 6. Check the brake lever for proper operation and clearance through its full travel

1933 AJS 33- 7 OHC Trophy Owners Manual

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Filed Under (AJS) by admin on 31-10-2010

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the cylinder head can then be lifted up and off. There is no Spigot or washer on the Cylinder Barrel, hut the Head must he lifted high enough to clear the two Cylinder Head studs. If the Cylinder Barrel is removed do not prise this from (he Crank-case but place the palms of the hands round the finning and rock the Cylinder from side to side and when it starts to leave the crank-case lift upwards. Do not let the connecting rod fall heavily against the mouth of the Crank-case or the crank-case face will be damaged. When removing the Piston, only withdraw one Gudgeon Pin Circlip with the special pliers provided and then either push the Gudgeon Pin out from the opposite side or insert a screw-driver inside the Gudgeon Pin and bear the screw-driver to one side and turn the Pin slowly out of the Piston Bosses. The Gudgeon Pin is a sliding fit in the Piston and Small End. When the Piston is removed either remember the correct original position indicated by the remaining Circlip, or take a sharp instrument and make a mark on the inside of the piston to indicate front and back ; be sure to replace the Piston in its original position, For the removal of the Valves we list a special tool costing 5s. 9d. Part No. XB3340; and for Valve Grinding a Small Tool costing 1s. 6d. Part No. XB.3360. The accompanying illustration shows the method of operation of both the valve extractor and the valve grinding tool; although the Cylinder Head shown does not of course belong to a Camshaft Model the operation is similar. For portability the valve extractor is made to fold. Be careful to see that the portion of the toot which depresses the valve spring collar is central before compressing the spring, otherwise it is almost impossible to remove the split cones. An important factor to watch when replacing the valve springs is that the collars are replaced underneath the valve springs. Whilst the cylinder head is dismantled remove the oil feed nipples to the valve guides to ascertain that these are clear; the inlet nipple, it will be noticed, is purposely restricted with a disc, so be careful to see that these nipples are replaced correctly.

HARLEY DAVIDSON SPORTSTER FORWARD CONTROL KITS REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 07-02-2011

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Remove Stock Shift Lever and Footrest Assembly 1. See Figure 1. Loosen the shift lever retaining screw (2) securing the shift lever (1) to the shifter shaft. Slide the shift lever off the splined shaft. Remove shifter peg from lever and save for installation. Discard shift lever. 2. Remove the two socket head screws (4) securing the footrest bracket (3) to the frame and remove footrest. Discard screws. 3. See Figure 6. Obtain two hole plugs (1) from kit and firmly press plugs into frame screw holes remaining from footrest removal. 4. See Figure 2. Remove the retaining ring (1) from the clevis to free the footrest clevis pin (4). Remove the clevis pin and footrest (3) from the footrest support. Save footrest for installation. Discard retaining ring, clevis pin, spring washer and footrest bracket. 1 2 4 3 is03193 1. Shift lever 2. Retaining screw 3. Footrest bracket 4. Socket head screw (2) Figure 1. Remove Shift Lever and Footrest 5 1 3 2 4 is03194 1. Retaining ring 2. Spring washer 3. Footrest 4. Clevis pin 5. Footrest bracket Figure 2. Remove Left Footrest from Support Remove Stock Brake Pedal and Footrest Assembly 1. See Figure 3. At the right footrest, remove the retaining ring (1) clevis pin (2), footrest (3) and spring washer (4). Discard all hardware but save footrest for installation. 2. Remove the exhaust to access the brake rod. Follow the instructions in the appropriate Service Manual. 3. Remove brake rod (5) from brake pedal and master cylinder bell crank. Discard brake rod INSTALLATION Install Forward Control Brake Pedal and Footrest Assemblies 1. See Figure 5 and Figure 6. At the lower front of the right frame downtube, remove the two screws securing the J- clip (B) to the frame. Discard the screws but save J-clip for installation. 2. Install the other end of the brake rod into the brake pedal assembly (8). Tighten to 84-144 in-lbs (9.5-16.3 Nm) . NOTE Assemble the brake pedal and footpeg clevis onto the footrest support bracket (as described in the next step) prior to mounting the support bracket to the frame. This will allow easier installation of the footrest mount clevis retaining ring (installed to grooved end of footrest mount clevis). 3. Slide the brake pedal (8) onto footrest mount clevis (11) then slide clevis into footrest/brake pedal support bracket (9). Align hole in the clevis with hole in the support bracket and install screw (6). Tighten the screw to 18-22 ft-lbs (24.4-29.9 Nm) . 4. Install the footrest mount clevis retaining ring (18) to the groove at the end of the footpeg clevis. 5. Position the J-clip (from Step 1) against the frame aligning the mounting holes. Mount the footrest/brake pedal support bracket (9) and J-clip to frame using the new screws (3). Tighten the bracket to 45-50 ft-lbs (61.1- 67.9 Nm) . 6. Obtain the brake rod (15) from kit and thread one end into the master cylinder bell crank. Tighten to 120-180 in-lbs (13.6-20.3 Nm) . 7. Install footpeg on clevis with spring washer (2). Make sure spring washer is positioned inside clevis (11) with the square edge toward the inside. Align holes and push clevis pin (7) from top down through hole in clevis. Secure clevis pin using the new retaining ring (17). 8. Install exhaust following the instructions in the appropriate Service Manual. Install Forward Control Shift Lever Assembly

HI-4 DUAL FIRE MOTORCYCLE IGNITION INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 09-11-2010

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Turn ignition switch off and disconnect battery ground cable. 2. Refer to Figure 3. Remove OE ignition module and wire harness (items 1-4). You will disconnect two wires at the coil (15), a wire going to the VOES (Vacuum Operated Electrical Switch) (18), a black ground wire at the ignition module, and the 3 pin plug (20) that connects to the sensor plate (11). Refer to shop manual for locations. 3. Remove ignition cover plates and gasket (items 5- 9). This will require drilling out two rivets. The rivets will later be replaced with two supplied self- threading screws. 4. In order to remove the sensor plate cable, the cable plug (20) must be removed first. Use needle nose pliers to pull the terminals out of the plug. Then pull the cable through the exit hole at the bottom of the timing cover. 5. Note location of sensor plate (11). There is a V notch in the sensor plate used for alignment. When you install the HI-4, you should align the V notch in the same location. This should set the timing close enough to start the engine. Remove and save the two standoffs and washers (10). Remove the sensor plate (11). HI-4 INSTALLATION Refer to Figure 4. The HI-4 requires use of the OE timing rotor P/N 32402-83 (used only on 1985 and newer models). If you have an older model or are not sure, check the rotor (9) for the correct part number. For models prior to 1980, use the supplied 10-32 x ¾”bolt and washer to mount the rotor. 1. Install the HI-4 system in place of the OE breaker or sensor plate. Rotate the HI-4 about 90 degrees to give better access to the cable exit hole. Install the HI-4 first, then push the cable through the hole. On some early models it may be necessary to enlarge the wire harness exit hole in the gear cover. Align the V notch on the HI-4 same as the OE plate you removed. Use the OE standoffs to secure the HI-4. You must use lockwashers under the standoffs for proper clearance between the HI-4 and cover plate. Do not fully tighten the standoffs until the timing has been set. 2. Route the HI-4 wire harness along the frame rails up to the coil. Make sure that harness will not be chafed or burned by exhaust heat. Secure harness with tie wraps. Do not install timing cover. HI-4 HOOKUP Crimp terminals and hardware are supplied for your convenience. Use the ring terminals for coil hookup. Use male-female quick disconnects for connections to the tach and vacuum switch (VOES). Tape up any unused wires. 1. Circuit Breaker Cover Screws (2) 2. Circuit Breaker Cover 3. Circuit Breaker Cover Gasket 4. Breaker Plate Screws (2) 5. Breaker Plate Screw Lockwashers & Washers (2 each) 6. Retainer (1971 to early 1972) 7. Circuit Breaker Cam Bolt 8. Breaker Plate Assembly 9. Breaker Cam 10. Advance Assembly 11. Gear Case Cover 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 NOTE: Damage will result if the brown tach wire comes in contact with +12V. Figure 1. Harley-Davidson®OE Points System
9000-4002A REV A 3 2/05 1. Identify switched +12 volt wire and tach wire (if equipped) going to the coil. Refer to your service manual, or reconnect the battery and use a test light or voltmeter. The switched +12 volt wire will be hot when the ignition key is turned on. 2. Refer to Figure 5. Connect the HI-4 red wire and switched +12 volt wire to Coil positive. 3. The HI-4 white wire is not used and should be taped. 4. Connect the HI-4 black wire to the Coil negative terminal. 5. Connect the HI-4 green wire to the vacuum switch (Figure 3, item 18), if used. 6. Connect the HI-4 brown wire to the tach wire, if equipped with tach. Tape up if unused. 7. The HI-4 is grounded via the timing housing; a separate ground connection is not required. 8. Reconnect battery ground cable. Verify proper ground connections to the frame and engine. VOES HOOKUP The OE vacuum switch (VOES) is normally an open circuit. Above 3-5 inch-Hg vacuum, the VOES closes and grounds the vacuum input on the OE ignition module. This increases the total advance generated by the OE ignition module. Vacuum advance improves part throttle 17 16 1. Cover Screws (2) 2. Ignition Timer Cover 3. Ignition Module 4. Timer Plate Screws (2) 5. Washers (2) 6. Screws & Washers (2 each) 7. Shield 8. Sensor 9. Trigger Rotor Bolt 10. Timer Plate 11. Trigger Rotor 12. Advance Assembly 13. Gear Case Cover 14. Ignition Coil 15. Spark Plug Wires (2) 16. Ignition Coil Terminal (FX) 17. Ignition Coil Terminal (FL) 15 14 13 12 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 NOTE: Most motorcycle coils do not have terminals marked. Use either terminal for Coil+ (positive) and the other one for Coil- (negative). Warning: The HI-4 (8-1100) Dual Fire ignition will not work with 2 plugs per head, dual coil application. Damage will result if attempted. Use the HI-4 (8-2100) single fire ignition for 2 plugs per head applications

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