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2008 Harley Davidson Touring models with an electronic throttle Grips Installation manual

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 08-03-2012

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1. Using a sharp knife, remove the rubber from your current grip by carefully cutting it away from the existing plastic throttle sleeve. The rubber that is adhered to the plastic sleeve must be ” shaved” resulting in a smooth plastic sleeve with no rubber. 2. Apply glue to the throttle sleeve. Use about 1/4 of the tube of glue on each side. Most of the glue should be applied to the end of the sleeve away form the throttle housing. 3. Slide the grip on to the throttle sleeve with one strong push. Use a rubber mallet if needed. Be sure not to get any of the glue into the space between the throttle sleeve and the throttle housing as well as the space between the throttle sleeve and the handlebar. *Wipe up any excess glue immediately

AJS WHEEL BEARING ADJUSTMENT

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Filed Under (AJS) by admin on 31-10-2010

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Front Wheel (a) With the machine on the centre stand, disconnect the brake cable and remove the wheel. (b) Slacken the circular lock-nut (10). (c) Turn the adjusting sleeve (9) clockwise until all the slackness is just taken up. (d) Turn the adjusting sleeve (9) anticlockwise one-half a turn. It will now be necessary to drive the bearing back against the sleeve and this is done by:— (e) placing the wheel under a press and pressing the end of the spindle (on the brake-side) downwards. or: (f) jarring the end of the spindle on the brake-side with a weighty lead hammer. Whichever method is used the greatest of care must be exercised otherwise the bearing may be damaged, (g) Tighten the circular lock-nut (10). Hold the sleeve in position while this is being done otherwise the sleeve may move and the adjustment will be in- correct. (h) Refit the wheel and check for end-float. Front Wheel Bearing Assembly T www.ajs-matchles s.info ISSUED BY A·J·S MOTOR CYCLES, LONDON, S.E.18. Rear Wheel Bearing Assembly for Quickly Detachable Wheels Rear Wheel (a) Disconnect the speedometer driving cable. (b) Remove the lock-nut (16) which secures the speedometer-drive gear­ box in position. (c) Remove the wheel. (d) Grasp the speedometer-drive gearbox (15) with the fingers and firmly pull it away from the hub. (e) Proceed as described in the instructions for the front wheel (b) to (d). Note that in the illustrations for the rear wheel the circular lock-nut is (13) and the adjusting sleeve is (14), It will now be necessary to drive the bearing back against the sleeve and this is done in the following manner: Quickly Detachable Wheels (f) place the wheel under a press, brake- side uppermost, and apply pressure to the oil-seal distance piece (6), or; (g) jarr the end of the oil-seal distance piece (6) with a weighty lead hammer. Whichever method is used the greatest of care must be exercised otherwise the bearing may be damaged. Wheels for Rigid-Frame Models (h) Remove the brake-side spindle nut (19), washer (18), fork-end spacer (17), outer spacer (20), and the brake plate (21). (i) Place the wheel, brake-side uppermost. under a press and apply pressure to the oil-seal distance piece (6). or; (j) jarr the end of the oil-seal distance piece (6) with a weighty lead hammer. Whichever method is used the greatest of care must be exercised otherwise the bearing may be damaged. All Rear Wheels (k) Refit the speedometer-drive gearbox. It is pushed on. The two dogs must engage with the slots in the end-face of the adjusting sleeve. (l) Refit the lock nut (16). (m) Refit the wheel into the frame and check for end-float. (n) Tighten the lock-nut (16) and refit the speedometer driving cable

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HARLEY-DAVIDSON V-ROD BIG BORE KIT INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 31-10-2010

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The cylinder sleeves provided with the Wiseco V-Rod big bore kit have been finished honed to size and the piston to cylinder clearance has been set. Prior to installation, the sleeves must be washed in hot soapy water (not parts washer solvent) and dried. Coat the bore surface with motor oil and wipe it with a white towel. If the towel shows any remaining grit, repeat the hot soapy water washing process until the towel will only show clean motor oil. CAUTION: Test fit the cleaned sleeve (without O-Rings installed) into the engine block. Sleeve should drop into position. If sleeve will not easily drop into position, warm the engine block with a hair dryer until sleeve will drop into position. Remove sleeve, then continue installation procedures. From the bottom side of the sleeve, gently roll the 2-cylinder sleeve O-rings into the two grooves on each sleeve. Apply motor oil to the O-rings and gently install the sleeves into the block until bottomed. CAUTION: DO NOT ATTEMPT TO INSTALL SLEEVES WITHOUT LUBRICATING THE O-RINGS. FAILURE TO LUBRICATE O-RINGS COULD RESULT IN TORN OR DAMAGED O-RINGS THAT WOULD NOT BE EVIDENT UNTIL ENGINE WAS STARTED. INCORRECTLY INSTALLED O-RINGS CAN RESULT IN CATASTROPHIC ENGINE DAMAGE. NOTE: REFER TO THE OEM SERVICE MANUAL FOR ALL TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS PISTON RING PREPARATION Wiseco V-Rod pistons incorporate an advanced 2 ring system • The top ring is file-fit, and as such, requires that the end gap must be clearanced. The proper end gap clearance is .016-.018″ with the ring installed squarely in the bore. The top ring must be installed on the piston with the dot marking toward the top of the piston. • The oil ring is comprised of the expander and two rails. Install the expander first, and then the rails. Check to make sure the expander tips have not overlapped. It is not necessary to clearance the end gaps on the oil rails. The rails should be installed without modification. PISTON INSTALLATION The Wiseco V-Rod big bore kit is supplied with pistons that are front and rear cylinder specific. Install the front piston 4792M10795 in the front cylinder with the arrow facing the front of the engine. Install the rear piston 4793M10795 in the rear cylinder with the arrow facing the front of the engine. A piston ring compressor is required to install the pistons into the cylinders. Front of engine ➔ 4792M10795 ( Front piston) 4793M10795 ( Rear piston) FWD 4793M10795 FWD 4792M10795 For further information call the Wiseco Tech Line:

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HARLEY DAVIDSON VRSCD SADDLEBAG MOUNTING KIT INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 14-04-2011

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INSTALLATION Prepare Bike for Hardware Installation 1. Use a suitable lift to support the motorcycle under the frame until the rear suspension is fully extended. NOTE To remove the tether from the hole in the frame, reach under the frame tube to align the metal tee (located on the end of the seat tether) with the tether cable. 2. See Figure 1. Unlatch and open seat. Remove tether (4) by sliding small clip (3) sideways through hole in frame. NOTE To remove the tubular plastic seat-hinge sleeve from the hinge, turn the sleeve to reveal the slotted length. Push on the slot with your finger to pop the sleeve off the hinge pins. Closing the seat slightly allows the sleeve to fall from the hinge-side of the seat, so be prepared to catch the sleeve. 3. Remove plastic sleeve (2) from hinge pins (1) and slide pins toward rear of bike. Remove seat. 2 1 4 3 is 00449 1. Hinge 2. Sleeve 3. Clip 4. Remove tether from frame Figure 1. Remove Seat 3 1 2 is 00450 1. Grabstrap 2. Passenger Pillion 3. Screw and Washer Figure 2. Remove Passenger Pillion 4. See Figure 2. Remove screw and washer (3) securing passenger pillion to frame. Slide pillion under grabstrap (1) and forward to disengage from tongue to remove. Save pillion mounting screw and washer for later use

2007 – 2009 APRILIA RSV MILLE EVOLUTION OPEN EXHAUST SYSTEM

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Filed Under (Aprilia) by admin on 06-11-2010

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Measurements of the Akrapovic EVOLUTION street legal system on the APRILIA RSV MILLE (with muffler insert): Power & Torque: the Akrapovic exhaust system increase the responsiveness of the Aprilia and fill out the power and torque curves. The increase in power and torque starts already at around 3000 rpm and leads all the way to the top of the rpm range. At 10300 rpm we measured a massive 129.1 HP on rear wheel and max. increase of power 9.4 HP at 10550 rpm. CONFIGURATION The Racing and Evolution systems differ only in the selection of tubing materials. The Racing is made of stainless steel, and the Evolution is made of titanium. Both systems have conical tubes, collectors, and a link pipe. All of the system components are attached with sleeve joints secured with silicon-shielded springs. The header tubes come with interference crossover tubes, and the systems also include a fitting for attaching a lambda sensor. The HEXAGONAL muffler is definitely the most eye- catching element of the system. It is made of a titanium inlet cap and perforated inner sleeve, while the outlet cap is made of carbon fiber. The outer sleeve is available in titanium or carbon fiber. The muffler is attached to the frame using an Akrapovic carbon fiber clamp. PERFORMANCE stock AKRAPOVIC max. increased power max. rear wheel power HP / rpm (measured on Dynojet ATV) 122.1 / 9740 129.1 / 10300 9.4 / 10550 interference crossover tubes YES (in collector) lambda sensor YES header tube inner sleeves – header tube flanges S.S LASER CUT header tubes – collector connection SLEEVE JOINT + SILICON SHIELDED SPRINGS collector / header tube – link pipe connection SLEEVE JOINT + SILICON SHIELDED SPRINGS link pipe – muffler connection SLEEVE JOINT + SILICON SHIELDED SPRINGS muffler inlet cap /outlet cap Ti / Carb.-fiber muffler metal interior TITANIUM muffler outer sleeve Ti / Carb.-fiber muffler clamp CARBON-FIBER muffler bracket Carb.-fiber (OPTIONAL) muffler insert EU YES heat shield YES (stock) US – catalytic converter YES (2x) CONFIGURA- TION CONFIGURATION header tubes collector link pipe material S.S. (begining) S.S. / TI (header tube) S.S. / TI STAINLESS STEEL / TITANIUM tube shape CONICAL CONICAL CONICAL Technical specifications of Akrapovic exhaust systems and related products subject to change without notice. ADDITIONAL DATA weight comparison (kg) stock AKRAPOVIC difference 12.57 S.S. link pipe TITANIUM link pipe stock – S.S. stock – titanium – 5.52

Ktm 625/ 640/ 660 LC4's and some 640 Adventures Removal and Installation Manual

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Filed Under (KTM) by admin on 24-01-2012

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1. There are 3 pages of instructions here. Review all 3 first! These model bikes normally require modifications. 2. Warning: Once the triple clamp is loose, the forks can roll away from the bike . Follow step 2 carefully. 3. Block the front and rear tire securely before removing the top triple clamp, keeping the weight pushed on the front wheel so the front tire cannot move forward and the forks are forced upward, keeping the bearing in the head tube. 4. Remove the 4 bolts holding your bars tight and lay the bars forward out of the way. 5. Using Loc-tite, change the lower nuts on the under side of your triple clamp that hold your bar perches. Use the “low profile” version that we have supplied in the kit. You will need access to the Allen head bolts in the lower perch halves. Without these low profile nuts the triple clamp will not be free to turn lock to lock. There are occasions where you may have to grind on the frame bracket to allow a little extra clearance for even the low profile nuts (see photo). Because the bars are rubber mounted, this clearance varies from bike to bike. Turn the triple clamp lock to lock and be sure you have clearance. You must change them now, as later you won’t have room to do so. 6. Now remove the top triple clamp taking note of how tight the main nut is, so you can re-tighten to the exact amount. 7. Remove the tin bearing shroud (cover) and rubber seal. The lips of the seal face downward for correct installation. 8. The new shorter bearing shroud will replace the stock tin shroud, giving the frame bracket more room to seat. 9. Grease your bearings while you have them exposed. (Keep the grease off the area where our frame bracket mounts). 10. Only if your model is equipped with one, you will need to cut off the upper portion of the square steering lock receiver box (see photo). The steering lock stays functional as the lock-pin still engages the lower the portion of the box. Mark and cut the top of the box off. You must cut enough to allow our frame bracket to drop down far enough so the entire bracket grabs the head tube. If you don’t allow the frame bracket enough clamping surface it will come loose. The upper edge of the frame bracket should be level with the step where your stock bearing seal seats. (See photo). 11. Install the frame bracket so it matches the clamping area on your head tube, but do not tighten it yet. Do not remove the paint on the frame where the frame bracket fits. The paint is calculated as part of the correct dimension. On most LC4′s you will need to grind the weld at the back of the head tube, so the bracket can drop all the way down flush. Each bike is a little different; some require a lot of grinding and some very little. Try to remove the weld while retaining the original diameter of the head tube where our bracket will clamp. It is essential for the frame bracket to clamp to a symmetrical, round head tube. When you’ve removed the majority of weld the finished removal should be done with a file for precision clearance, without touching the area where the clamp will seat

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Motorcycle Hand Warmer Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 29-01-2011

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1. Disconnect the Positive (+) terminal from the battery. 2. Remove the existing grip from the Clutch side. Removing the grip may require blowing compressed air in the end between the grip and the bar, injecting brake cleaner fluid, or cutting it off. 3. Clean the handlebar where the grip was removed with alcohol or a solvent to remove all residue and dry with a clean cloth. 4. Determine where the Clutch side heater will be mounted. Take the heater marked “Clutch” and place it on the handlebar approximately ½” from the end and decide the position of the wires. It is recommended to mount the heater so the wires are at 9:00 o’clock or they can be positioned on the bottom for appearance. Peel off the release paper and adhere the heater to the handlebar with the wires toward the headlight. 5. Apply a high temperature adhesive (such as JB Weld) to the inside of the Clutch side grip. Install the grips over the heaters and let the adhesive cure as instructed by the adhesive manufacturer. 6. The Throttle side heater is installed on the throttle sleeve under the rubber cover. Remove the rubber cover that is installed over the throttle sleeve so the Throttle side heater can be applied. Some of the throttle sleeves have ribs which need to be cut or ground off so the heater can make full contact with the sleeve surface or it will over heat in the void areas. 7. Determine where the throttle side heater will be mounted. Take the heater marked “Throttle” and place it on the throttle sleeve approximately ½” from the end and decide the position of the wires. It is recommended to mount the heater so the wires are at 3:00 o’clock with a loop to allow for the twisting motion of the throttle. Peel off the release paper and adhere the heater to the throttle sleeve with the wires toward the headlight. 8. Apply a thin coat of adhesive (such as J.B. Weld) to the surface of heater only and reroll the rubber hand grip over the entire throttle sleeve. Wipe off any excessive adhesive that may have rolled out

Kawasaki, Suzuki and Yamaha GRIPS INSTALLATION

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 25-10-2010

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1 (Fig. 1) 3 Apply glue to the throttle sleeve. Most of the glue should be applied to the end of the sleeve away from the throttle housing. 4 Slide the grip onto throttle sleeve with one strong push (Fig. 2). NOTE: Be sure not to get any glue into the space between the throttle sleeve and the throttle sleeve housing, as well as the space between the throttle sleeve and the handle bar. Wipe up any excess glue immediately. Allow 6 hours for glue to set before using . GRIPS Remove clutch side grip by carefully cutting it away from the handlebar with a sharp knife. 1 Apply glue to the bar. Most of the glue should be applied to the end of the bar away from the switch housing. 2 Slide the grip onto the bar with one strong push. Wipe away any excess glue immediately. Allow 6 hours for glue to set before using. (Fig. 3)

HARLEY DAVIDSON 45-AMP. UPGRADE ALTERNATOR ROTOR KIT INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 15-03-2011

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This 45-amp Rotor Kit is designed for installation on 1999 and later FLHT, FLHTC, FLHR, FLHRI, FLHRCI and FLTR Model Motorcycles. Existing Rotor Removal 1. Remove seat and disconnect battery terminals, negative cable first. 2. Follow instructions in applicable Service Manual and remove the primary chaincase cover. Remove the clutch, primary chain, compensating sprocket and shaft extension as a single assembly. 3. Remove the alternator rotor spacer, if present. Installation The laminated high-output rotor in this kit contains magnets that are considerably more powerful than those used in most previous rotors. The ROTOR REMOVER/INSTALLER and SHAFT PROTECTOR SLEEVE (HD-41771) must be used to prevent parts damage during rotor removal and installation. 1. See Figure 1. Verify threads are clean and thread the Shaft Protector and Rotor Remover/Installer, if removed. NOTE The Shaft Protector Sleeve not only protects the threads from the splines of the rotor, but acts as a guide to ensure that the rotor is properly centered. 2. Turn thumbscrews of Rotor Remover/Installer into threaded holes in rotor face. CAUTION 1 WARNING 1 WARNING 1 WARNING Kit Number 29999-97B Figure 1. Install Shaft Protector and Rotor Installer Engine Sprocket Shaft 1. Make Sure Threads are Clean 2. Install shaft protector sleeve. Shaft protector sleeve 3. Install Rotor Remover/Installer i04153 Handle Thumbscrew Forcing screw . Center ball on forcing screw in recess at end of engine sprocket shaft. Rotate the handle of the tool in a counterclockwise direction to ease rotor into position over stator. 4. Loosen thumbscrews and remove Rotor Remover/Installer. Remove Shaft Protector Sleeve. 5. Install the shaft extension on engine sprocket shaft. No alternator rotor spacer is necessary). 6. Follow instructions in applicable Service Manual and install the clutch assembly, primary chain and shaft extension as a single assembly. 7. Apply two drops of Red LOCTITE®262 to threads of clutch nut and engine sprocket nut. Tighten nuts as fol- lows: Clutch nut- (left hand threads), 70-80 ft-lbs (94.9-105.5 Nm) Engine sprocket nut- 150-165 ft-lbs (203-223 Nm). 8. Follow instructions in Service Manual and install the Primary Chaincase Cover using new gasket from kit, if necessary.

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HONDA XL 1000 V VARADERO 2005 AKRAPOVIC SLIP- ON SP SERIES EXHAUST SYSTEM

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 21-11-2011

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coat the bolt and interior side of the metal clamp with Akrapovic anti-seize lead-free copper paste (black tube)
2. correctly position and install the graphite inner sleeve and metal clamp 3. slide the link pipe onto the stock collector 4. hand tighten the bolt of the link pipe bracket 5. make sure the link pipes are not touching the frame and other parts 6.
perform the process on both sides of the motorcycle installing the muffler: 1. position the muffler correctly and slide it onto the outlet side of the link pipe (Figure 17) 2. attach the springs at the muffler – link pipe joint (Figure 18) 3. correctly position the carbon-fiber clamp and slide it onto the muffler – bear in mind the left offset of the carbon-fiber clamp for the right muffler and the right offset for the left muffler viewed from the rear. WARNING: open the clamp to slightly wider than the diameter of the outer sleeve of the muffler – do not scrape it along the muffler outer sleeve! (Figure 19) 4. hand tighten the carbon-fiber clamp onto the stock chassis hanging bracket – use the bolts, washer and spacers supplied in the Akrapovic kit. Do not fully tighten. Make sure the additional parts from the Akrapovic kit are correctly installed. (Figure 20, 21, 22) 5. make sure the muffler is not touching other parts of the motorcycle 6. perform the process on both sides of the motorcycle final installation: 1. tighten the bolt of the link pipe bracket (Figure 23) 2. tighten the carbon-fiber clamp (Figure 24) 3. tighten the metal clamp at the Akrapovic link pipe – stock collector joint (Figure 25) 4. perform the process on both sides of the motorcycle 5. clean grease spots: a. muffler – titanium outer sleeve: use a soft cloth sprayed with a multi-purpose spray lubricant (WD-40 or equivalent) b. muffler – carbon-fiber outer sleeve: use a soft dry cloth c. stainless steel link pipe: use a soft cloth sprayed with a contact cleaner, then wipe with a soft dry cloth Cleaning will prevent spots from burning onto the surface. Do not use aggressive chemical cleaners, because they can damage the sticker. 6. reattach side panels (Figure 26) 7. reconnect the electric connectors for turn signal lamps (Figure 27) 8. reattach the cable for locking / unlocking the seat (Figure 28) 9. reattach the passenger handlebars and top case plate (Figure 29, 30, 31, 32) 10. reattach both seats (Figure 33) 11. position of the installed Akrapovic Slip-on SP series system (Figure 34)