spark plug wires for 1973 honda cb 350

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SUZUKI SV1000 PERIODIC MAINTENANCE

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Filed Under (Suzuki) by admin on 26-02-2011

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MAINTENANCE AND TUNE-UP PRO- CEDURES This section describes the servicing procedures for each item of the Periodic Maintenance requirements. AIR CLEANER I Inspect every 6 000 km (4 000 miles, 6 months) and replace every 18 000 km (11 000 miles, 18 months) . • * Remove the seat. (LF6-7) • * Lift and support the feul tank . (C-74-65) • * Remove the air cleaner box cap O. • * Remove the air cleaner element O. • * Carefully use air hose to blow the dust from the cleaner ele- ment. CAUTION Always use air pressure on the throttle body side of the air cleaner element . If air pressure is used on the other side, dirt will be forced into the pores of the air cleaner element thus restricting air flow through the air cleaner element . PERIODIC MAINTENANCE 2-5 2-6PERIODIC MAINTENANCE • * Reinstall the cleaned or new air cleaner element in the reverse order of removal . CAUTION If driving under dusty condition, clean the air cleaner element more frequently. The surest way to accelerate engine wear is to use the engine without the element or to use a ruptured element. Make sure that the air cleaner is in good condition at all times. Life of the engine depends largely on this component! NOTE: When cleaning the air cleaner element, drain water from the air cleaner by removing the drain plug . SPARK PLUG Inspect every 6 000 km (4 000 miles, 6 months) and replace every 12 000 km (7 500 miles, 12 months) . No. 1 (FRONT) SPARK PLUG REMOVAL • * Remove the radiator mounting bolt O. • * Move the radiator forward. • * Remove the spark plug cap O. NOTE: Be careful not to damage the radiator fins . A WARNING The hot radiator and the hot engine can burn you . Wait until the radiator and the engine are cool enough to touch . • * Remove the spark plug with a spark plug wrench. 1 6 I It No. 2 (REAR) SPARK PLUG REMOVAL • * Remove the seat. (r–,-6-7) • * Lift and support the fuel tank . (=4-65) 4-65) • * Disconnect the camshaft position sensor 1O and breather hose (Z. • * Remove the rubber heat shield ® . • * Remove the spark plug cap . • * Remove the spark plug with a spark plug wrench . HEAT RANGE • * Check to see the heat range of the plug . CARBON DEPOSIT •Check to see if there are carbon deposits on the plugs . If carbon is deposited, remove it with a spark plug cleaner machine or carefully using a tool with a pointed end . SPARK PLUG GAP • * Measure the plug gap with a thickness gauge . If out of specification, adjust it to the following gap . 09900-20803 : Thickness gauge Spark plug gap OA Standard: 0.6 – 0 .7 mm (0.024 -0.028 in) ELECTRODES CONDITION •Check to see the worn or burnt condition of the electrodes . If it is extremely worn or burnt, replace the plug . And also replace the plug if it has a broken insulator, damaged thread . CAUTION Confirm the thread size and reach when replacing the plug. If the reach is too short, carbon will be deposited on the screw portion of the plug hole and engine damage may result

SANYANG HD 125/ 200 Specifications And SERVICE MANUAL

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Filed Under (Sym) by admin on 24-11-2010

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heck and adjustment Fault condition Probable causes Loosen carburetor drain bolt to check if there is gasoline inside the carburetor Fuel supplied tom carburetor sufficient No fuel is supplied to carburetor Remove spark plug, install it into spark plug cap, and perform a spark test against engine ground. Perform cylinder compression pressure test. Check if sparks Weak sparks, no spark at all Low compression pressure or no pressure Re-start by following the starting procedures No ignition There are some signs of ignition, nut engine can not be started Remove the spark plug again and check it. Remove carburetor after 30 minutes and connect a hose onto fuel rich circuit. Then blow the hose with air Dry spark plug Wet spark plug Blowing in normal Blowing clogged 1. No fuel in fuel tank 2. Check if the pipes, fuel tank to carburetor and intake vacuum, are clogged. 3. Float valve clogged 4. Lines in fuel tank evaporation system clogged 5. Malfunction of fuel pump 6. Loosen or damaged fuel pump vacuum hose 7. Fuel filter clogged 1. Malfunction of spark plug 2. Spark plug foul 3. Malfunction of CDI set 4. Malfunction of AC generator 5. Ignition coil is in open or short circuit 6. Ignition coil leads open or short circuit 7. Malfunction of main switch 1. Piston ring seized 2. Malfunction of cylinder valves 3. Worn cylinder and piston ring 4. Cylinder gasket leak 5. Sand hole in compression parts 1. Malfunction of throttle valve operation 2. Air sucked into intake manifold 3. Incorrect ignition timing 1. Fuel level in carburetor too high 2. Malfunction of throttle valve operation 3. Throttle valve opening too wid

YAMAHA ROADLINER AND STRATOLINER LAY DOWN LICENSEPLATE/ TAIL LIGHT INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 29-01-2011

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1. Remove the license plate. Remove the license plate holder assembly from the rear fender (three 8mm Allen bolts 5mm wrench). Remove the five 4mm Allen screws underneath the rear fender which secure the taillight/turn signal assembly to the rear fender (3mm wrench). As shown in photo #2, pull the taillight assembly out away from the fender, turn it over, place a towel or rag between the light and fender and allow it to rest on the fender. 2. Locate the supplied triangular license plate mounting block, two 8 x 20mm Allen screws with holes driiled thru and three rubber washers. Place the two Allen screws thru the upper holes in the block and the rubber washers over the screws on the backside of the block. Start the screws into the upper holes on the fender. Use one of the three screws removed earlier from the original mount in the remaining lower hole of the new block sliding the remaining rubber washer between the block and fender. Tighten all three Allen screws secure enough to compress the rubber washers (4-6 ft lbs.). 3. Locate the supplied license plate mounting plate and LED lights. Cut off the excess red and black wires at the end of the black loom or tube. Referring to photo (1) thread the wires of the LED lights thru the small holes in the mounting plate, peel the cover from the adhesive backing on the lights and press them firmly into place as shown. 4. Locate the three supplied ¼” x ½” flat head Allen screws. Hold the plate up to the mounting block installed earlier with the wires at the bottom of the plate. Thread the wires from the LED lights thru the holes in the upper bolts of the block. Install the plate onto the block using the three flat head screws being sure to keep the exposed wire behind he plate as short as possible and fitting into the slot or cut out at the edge of the block. Snug the screws and again check to see tat the wires are in the slot or cut out in the block and do not become pinched as the screws are tightened. Tighten the screws securely. 5. Where the wires from the taillight go thru the fender there is a grommet, pull this grommet out from the fender. Thread the wires from the LED lights thru the grommet with the other wires. Replace the grommet into the fender and remove any slack from the wires under the fender. Cut the LED wires off at 6″ past the grommet. 6. Referring to photo (2) remove 2″ of the black tubing exposing the red and black wires on the LEDs. Locate the supplied brake/tail light dual function element (a red wire at one end with a red and orange wire at the other) and wire connectors. Cut all three wires on the dual element to 3″ long. Strip the end of the single red wire on the element and both of the red wires from the LEDs then connect them using one of the blue butt connectors. Connect the two black wires from the LEDs to any one of the black wires on the tail light or signals using one of the supplied splice connectors (place both black wires into one of the holes on the connector). Using the remaining splice connectors attach the red wire from the dual element to the yellow wire on the tail light and the orange wire to the blue wire on the tail light. Turn on the ignition and check that the LEDs are working both as tail and brake lights when the brakes are applied.

HONDA CB650/ 750F/ 900F/ 1100F/ GL1100 Spark Unit Set Installation Manual

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 05-04-2011

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INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS: 1. All connections must be of the highest quality, use crimped or soldered connections; twisted wires will not give a satisfactory operation. 2. Remove the seat and/or petrol tank to gain access to the original spark units (if fitted); these are normally fitted under the seat between the top frame tubing. Each of these units consists of a small alloy metal box with sleeved wires terminated by a small connector (coupler). They also have a mounting tab with a single fixing hole. 3. On four cylinder machines there will be two units, normally mounted back to back; one for cylinders 1&4 and one for cylinders 2&3. 4. For safety, disconnect the battery. 5. Unplug the couplers from each of the units. Undo the fixings and remove the units. 6. Fit the new spark units in the place of the old ones or find a suitable alternative, close to the connectors. Secure the units to the frame or mounting platform using the supplied tie-straps and adhesive mounting base (if required). If required, a thin sheet of rubber or double-sided tape can be used to keep the units in position. Do not completely wrap the units in foam rubber. 7. Push the wiring harness plugs into the new spark unit socket connectors; they will only fit one way. Reconnect the battery. 8. If you are rewiring the machine or do not have the standard wiring harness, the spark unit wire colours & functions are as follows: GREEN Ö GROUND (0 VOLTS) BLACK/WHITE Ö IGNITION SUPPLY (+12 VOLTS) VIA ENGINE STOP SWITCH YELLOW Ö IGNITION COIL OUTPUT (TO COIL —) WHITE Ö PULSE GENERATOR (WHITE RING) BLUE Ö PULSE GENERATOR (UNMARKED) There are two pulse generators, one for cylinders 1&4 and one for cylinders 2&3. The left hand one is normally for cylinders 1&4 (see fig.1). There are two wires of the same colour coming from each pulse generator, one of these wires is normally marked with a white band. The pulse generator wire with the white band connects to the white wire from the corresponding spark unit, the other pulse generator wire connects to the blue wire on the corresponding spark unit. If the white band is missing, this is normally the upper wire coming from the pulse generator. 9. Refit the seat and tank (if removed earlier). 10. Fitting is now complete, although for best results you may wish to verify the ignition timing, see the following guide

Honda VT1100 Shadow Guide Plug Patch Repair Manual

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 24-04-2011

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Find the guide plug.bn The guide plug is shown in the shop manual with the engine removed from the frame and the left crankcase cover removed. (You’ll find this illustration in the “ELECTRIC STARTER/STARTER CLUTCH” chapter in the “STARTER DRIVEN GEAR/STARTER CLUTCH REMOVAL” section.) It’s a little bit harder to find it on the bike. Start by following the yardstick to see where the guide plug is on my bike. To find it on your bike, lie on the ground (or, preferably a mechanics creeper) next to the bike (without the yardstick) and peek under the shift lever and over the frame There it is, just barely visible from the side of the bike. Here’s what a new one looks like: 2. Clean the guide plug and crankcase. From the front of the bike, clean the guide plug and crankcase with brake cleaner in a VERY focused spray. Let the cleaner evaporate before moving to the next step. Page 4 Rev: Draft 5/20/2007 Page 4 of 5 3. Reposition the guide plug. a. From the side of the bike, use the yardstick (or a long screwdriver if you prefer) to gently push the guide plug back into the crankcase. (Note the JB Weld from the previous patch operation.) b. From the front of the bike, gently push upward on the bottom of the upper tab (as shown below) or the bottom of the forward tab to rotate the guide plug into the proper position while maintaining pressure with the yardstick

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