spark plug wires for 1973 honda cb 350

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SUZUKI SV1000 PERIODIC MAINTENANCE

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Filed Under (Suzuki) by admin on 26-02-2011

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MAINTENANCE AND TUNE-UP PRO- CEDURES This section describes the servicing procedures for each item of the Periodic Maintenance requirements. AIR CLEANER I Inspect every 6 000 km (4 000 miles, 6 months) and replace every 18 000 km (11 000 miles, 18 months) . • * Remove the seat. (LF6-7) • * Lift and support the feul tank . (C-74-65) • * Remove the air cleaner box cap O. • * Remove the air cleaner element O. • * Carefully use air hose to blow the dust from the cleaner ele- ment. CAUTION Always use air pressure on the throttle body side of the air cleaner element . If air pressure is used on the other side, dirt will be forced into the pores of the air cleaner element thus restricting air flow through the air cleaner element . PERIODIC MAINTENANCE 2-5 2-6PERIODIC MAINTENANCE • * Reinstall the cleaned or new air cleaner element in the reverse order of removal . CAUTION If driving under dusty condition, clean the air cleaner element more frequently. The surest way to accelerate engine wear is to use the engine without the element or to use a ruptured element. Make sure that the air cleaner is in good condition at all times. Life of the engine depends largely on this component! NOTE: When cleaning the air cleaner element, drain water from the air cleaner by removing the drain plug . SPARK PLUG Inspect every 6 000 km (4 000 miles, 6 months) and replace every 12 000 km (7 500 miles, 12 months) . No. 1 (FRONT) SPARK PLUG REMOVAL • * Remove the radiator mounting bolt O. • * Move the radiator forward. • * Remove the spark plug cap O. NOTE: Be careful not to damage the radiator fins . A WARNING The hot radiator and the hot engine can burn you . Wait until the radiator and the engine are cool enough to touch . • * Remove the spark plug with a spark plug wrench. 1 6 I It No. 2 (REAR) SPARK PLUG REMOVAL • * Remove the seat. (r–,-6-7) • * Lift and support the fuel tank . (=4-65) 4-65) • * Disconnect the camshaft position sensor 1O and breather hose (Z. • * Remove the rubber heat shield ® . • * Remove the spark plug cap . • * Remove the spark plug with a spark plug wrench . HEAT RANGE • * Check to see the heat range of the plug . CARBON DEPOSIT •Check to see if there are carbon deposits on the plugs . If carbon is deposited, remove it with a spark plug cleaner machine or carefully using a tool with a pointed end . SPARK PLUG GAP • * Measure the plug gap with a thickness gauge . If out of specification, adjust it to the following gap . 09900-20803 : Thickness gauge Spark plug gap OA Standard: 0.6 – 0 .7 mm (0.024 -0.028 in) ELECTRODES CONDITION •Check to see the worn or burnt condition of the electrodes . If it is extremely worn or burnt, replace the plug . And also replace the plug if it has a broken insulator, damaged thread . CAUTION Confirm the thread size and reach when replacing the plug. If the reach is too short, carbon will be deposited on the screw portion of the plug hole and engine damage may result

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HONDA CB650/ 750F/ 900F/ 1100F/ GL1100 Spark Unit Set Installation Manual

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 05-04-2011

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INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS: 1. All connections must be of the highest quality, use crimped or soldered connections; twisted wires will not give a satisfactory operation. 2. Remove the seat and/or petrol tank to gain access to the original spark units (if fitted); these are normally fitted under the seat between the top frame tubing. Each of these units consists of a small alloy metal box with sleeved wires terminated by a small connector (coupler). They also have a mounting tab with a single fixing hole. 3. On four cylinder machines there will be two units, normally mounted back to back; one for cylinders 1&4 and one for cylinders 2&3. 4. For safety, disconnect the battery. 5. Unplug the couplers from each of the units. Undo the fixings and remove the units. 6. Fit the new spark units in the place of the old ones or find a suitable alternative, close to the connectors. Secure the units to the frame or mounting platform using the supplied tie-straps and adhesive mounting base (if required). If required, a thin sheet of rubber or double-sided tape can be used to keep the units in position. Do not completely wrap the units in foam rubber. 7. Push the wiring harness plugs into the new spark unit socket connectors; they will only fit one way. Reconnect the battery. 8. If you are rewiring the machine or do not have the standard wiring harness, the spark unit wire colours & functions are as follows: GREEN Ö GROUND (0 VOLTS) BLACK/WHITE Ö IGNITION SUPPLY (+12 VOLTS) VIA ENGINE STOP SWITCH YELLOW Ö IGNITION COIL OUTPUT (TO COIL —) WHITE Ö PULSE GENERATOR (WHITE RING) BLUE Ö PULSE GENERATOR (UNMARKED) There are two pulse generators, one for cylinders 1&4 and one for cylinders 2&3. The left hand one is normally for cylinders 1&4 (see fig.1). There are two wires of the same colour coming from each pulse generator, one of these wires is normally marked with a white band. The pulse generator wire with the white band connects to the white wire from the corresponding spark unit, the other pulse generator wire connects to the blue wire on the corresponding spark unit. If the white band is missing, this is normally the upper wire coming from the pulse generator. 9. Refit the seat and tank (if removed earlier). 10. Fitting is now complete, although for best results you may wish to verify the ignition timing, see the following guide

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Honda VT1100 Shadow Guide Plug Patch Repair Manual

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 24-04-2011

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Find the guide plug.bn The guide plug is shown in the shop manual with the engine removed from the frame and the left crankcase cover removed. (You’ll find this illustration in the “ELECTRIC STARTER/STARTER CLUTCH” chapter in the “STARTER DRIVEN GEAR/STARTER CLUTCH REMOVAL” section.) It’s a little bit harder to find it on the bike. Start by following the yardstick to see where the guide plug is on my bike. To find it on your bike, lie on the ground (or, preferably a mechanics creeper) next to the bike (without the yardstick) and peek under the shift lever and over the frame There it is, just barely visible from the side of the bike. Here’s what a new one looks like: 2. Clean the guide plug and crankcase. From the front of the bike, clean the guide plug and crankcase with brake cleaner in a VERY focused spray. Let the cleaner evaporate before moving to the next step. Page 4 Rev: Draft 5/20/2007 Page 4 of 5 3. Reposition the guide plug. a. From the side of the bike, use the yardstick (or a long screwdriver if you prefer) to gently push the guide plug back into the crankcase. (Note the JB Weld from the previous patch operation.) b. From the front of the bike, gently push upward on the bottom of the upper tab (as shown below) or the bottom of the forward tab to rotate the guide plug into the proper position while maintaining pressure with the yardstick

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SANYANG HD 125/ 200 Specifications And SERVICE MANUAL

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Filed Under (Sym) by admin on 24-11-2010

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heck and adjustment Fault condition Probable causes Loosen carburetor drain bolt to check if there is gasoline inside the carburetor Fuel supplied tom carburetor sufficient No fuel is supplied to carburetor Remove spark plug, install it into spark plug cap, and perform a spark test against engine ground. Perform cylinder compression pressure test. Check if sparks Weak sparks, no spark at all Low compression pressure or no pressure Re-start by following the starting procedures No ignition There are some signs of ignition, nut engine can not be started Remove the spark plug again and check it. Remove carburetor after 30 minutes and connect a hose onto fuel rich circuit. Then blow the hose with air Dry spark plug Wet spark plug Blowing in normal Blowing clogged 1. No fuel in fuel tank 2. Check if the pipes, fuel tank to carburetor and intake vacuum, are clogged. 3. Float valve clogged 4. Lines in fuel tank evaporation system clogged 5. Malfunction of fuel pump 6. Loosen or damaged fuel pump vacuum hose 7. Fuel filter clogged 1. Malfunction of spark plug 2. Spark plug foul 3. Malfunction of CDI set 4. Malfunction of AC generator 5. Ignition coil is in open or short circuit 6. Ignition coil leads open or short circuit 7. Malfunction of main switch 1. Piston ring seized 2. Malfunction of cylinder valves 3. Worn cylinder and piston ring 4. Cylinder gasket leak 5. Sand hole in compression parts 1. Malfunction of throttle valve operation 2. Air sucked into intake manifold 3. Incorrect ignition timing 1. Fuel level in carburetor too high 2. Malfunction of throttle valve operation 3. Throttle valve opening too wid

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HONDA GL1000 DYNA S ELECTRONIC IGNITION INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 24-04-2011

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open the top and side compartments. Locate the two ignition coils and ballast resistor directly in front of the air cleaner intake. On some models it is best to remove the air cleaner for access to the coil area. Unplug the wires from the ballast resistor. Connect the power resistor supplied with the kit across (parallel with] the ballast resistor, and reconnect the wires to the tabs provided. The resistor will become very hot during operation. That is normal, and not destructive to the resistor, however, care should be taken to keep cables and wires from coming in contact with it. Locate the blinker relay just behind the fuse box in the left compartment. The white/green wire going to the relay carries 12 volts from the ignition switch. Using the splice connector provided, attach the separate red wire included in the kit to the white/green wire, as shown below. Do not strip the wires. On 197B and 1979 models, the 12 volts can be obtained at the accessory terminal in the left side compartment. y^T^^TL. PUSH CLIP DOWN RED WIRE SUPPLIED WITH KIT SWITCHED 12 VOLTS Remove the points cover and battery cover. Remove the 10 mm bolt holding the spark advance assembly to the engine. Remove the screws holding the points plate to the engine. Disconnect the blue/yellow
and yellow point wires where they plug into the wire harness and remove the entire point/plate assembly. Notice that there are two other wires connected where the points plugged in. These are wires going to the condensers mounted in front of the battery. Unplug both wires and tuck them back out of the way. Do not reconnect. | > Remove the spark advance assembly from the engine. Remove the point cam from the advance assembly. Coat the advance assembly shaft with oil. Place the OYNA S rotor on the shaft and while spreading the weights, push the rotor down until it engages the weights. Ensure that the rotor rotates freely on the shaft as the advance weights move out and back. Install the advance/rotor assembly on the engine making sure the pin on the camshaft is engaged in the slot on the advance assembly. Install the washer and bolt, and tighten. Ensure that the rotor is still free to rotate.

YAMAHA ROADLINER AND STRATOLINER LAY DOWN LICENSEPLATE/ TAIL LIGHT INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 29-01-2011

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1. Remove the license plate. Remove the license plate holder assembly from the rear fender (three 8mm Allen bolts 5mm wrench). Remove the five 4mm Allen screws underneath the rear fender which secure the taillight/turn signal assembly to the rear fender (3mm wrench). As shown in photo #2, pull the taillight assembly out away from the fender, turn it over, place a towel or rag between the light and fender and allow it to rest on the fender. 2. Locate the supplied triangular license plate mounting block, two 8 x 20mm Allen screws with holes driiled thru and three rubber washers. Place the two Allen screws thru the upper holes in the block and the rubber washers over the screws on the backside of the block. Start the screws into the upper holes on the fender. Use one of the three screws removed earlier from the original mount in the remaining lower hole of the new block sliding the remaining rubber washer between the block and fender. Tighten all three Allen screws secure enough to compress the rubber washers (4-6 ft lbs.). 3. Locate the supplied license plate mounting plate and LED lights. Cut off the excess red and black wires at the end of the black loom or tube. Referring to photo (1) thread the wires of the LED lights thru the small holes in the mounting plate, peel the cover from the adhesive backing on the lights and press them firmly into place as shown. 4. Locate the three supplied ¼” x ½” flat head Allen screws. Hold the plate up to the mounting block installed earlier with the wires at the bottom of the plate. Thread the wires from the LED lights thru the holes in the upper bolts of the block. Install the plate onto the block using the three flat head screws being sure to keep the exposed wire behind he plate as short as possible and fitting into the slot or cut out at the edge of the block. Snug the screws and again check to see tat the wires are in the slot or cut out in the block and do not become pinched as the screws are tightened. Tighten the screws securely. 5. Where the wires from the taillight go thru the fender there is a grommet, pull this grommet out from the fender. Thread the wires from the LED lights thru the grommet with the other wires. Replace the grommet into the fender and remove any slack from the wires under the fender. Cut the LED wires off at 6″ past the grommet. 6. Referring to photo (2) remove 2″ of the black tubing exposing the red and black wires on the LEDs. Locate the supplied brake/tail light dual function element (a red wire at one end with a red and orange wire at the other) and wire connectors. Cut all three wires on the dual element to 3″ long. Strip the end of the single red wire on the element and both of the red wires from the LEDs then connect them using one of the blue butt connectors. Connect the two black wires from the LEDs to any one of the black wires on the tail light or signals using one of the supplied splice connectors (place both black wires into one of the holes on the connector). Using the remaining splice connectors attach the red wire from the dual element to the yellow wire on the tail light and the orange wire to the blue wire on the tail light. Turn on the ignition and check that the LEDs are working both as tail and brake lights when the brakes are applied.

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Honda CG125 Owners Workshop Manual

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 25-11-2010

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Clean the air filter Pull off the right-hand side panel and remove the two nuts which secure the air filter cover. Withdraw the cover, checking that the sealing gasket is in good condition, pull out the retaining spring and withdraw the element assembly. Peel off the inner and outer foam sleeves. Wash all components in white spirit (Stoddard solvent) or in warm water and detergent and dry them thoroughly. Soak the foam sleeves in the specified oil, then squeeze them gently (do not wring them out or they will be damaged) to expel all surplus oil. Refit the sleeves to the element frame. On reassembly ensure that all components are correctly fitted so that unfiltered air cannot bypass the element. 2 Check the spark plug Remove the spark plug cap, unscrew the plug and check its condition, comparing it with the photographs on page 65. If it is badly worn or fouled it must be renewed. If it is fit for further service check the gap and reset it if necessary, as described in Chapter 3.8. 3 Check the valve clearances It is important that the correct valve clearance is maintained. A small amount of free play is designed into the valve train to allow for expansion of the various components. If the setting deviates greatly from that specified, a marked drop in performance will be evident. In the case of the clearance becoming too great, it will be found that valve operation will be noisy, and performance will drop off as a result of the valves not opening fully. If on the other hand, the clearance is too small the valves may not close completely. This will not only cause loss of compression, but will also cause the valves to burn out very quickly. In extreme cases, a valve head may strike the piston crown, causing extensive damage to the engine. The clearances should be checked and adjusted with a cold engine. Place the machine on its centre stand and remove the rocker cover, taking care not to damage the 0 ring. Remove the gearchange pedal and the left-hand outer cover to expose the generator rotor. Remove plug and allow old oil to drain Remove the spark plug, then slowly rotate the engine anticlockwise by way of the generator rotor, watching the inlet valve. When it has opened and closed again (sunk down and risen up to its original position), rotate the engine further until the T mark on the rotor periphery aligns exactly with the raised index mark which is positioned between 12 and 1 o’clock (from the crankshaft) on the generator stator. The engine will then be in the correct position for checking the valve clearances, namely at Top Dead Centre (TDC) on the compression stroke; check that there is free play at both rockers. Using a 0.08 mm (0.003 in) feeler gauge, check the clearance between the top of each valve stem and its corresponding rocker. The feeler gauge must be a light sliding fit, with the rocker and valve stem just nipping it. If necessary, slacken the locknut, and turn the small square-headed adjuster to obtain the correct setting. Tighten the locknut, holding the adjuster at the same time to prevent it from moving. Finally, recheck the setting and then repeat the procedure on the other rocker. 4 Check the contact breaker points and ignition timing Note: since the generator stator plate is located by its countersunk retaining screws, the ignition timing can only be altered by opening or closing the contact breaker gap; therefore both operations are described as one. The full procedure is given here for ease of reference, but if the points are found to be in good condition and if the gap has not altered or is within the tolerance, then the ignition timing will be sufficiently accurate and there will be no need to carry out the full check. First remove the gearchange pedal, the left-hand outer cover, the spark plug and the left-hand side panel

motorcycle Turn Signal Conversion Kit Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 09-11-2010

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1. Place motorcycle on solid, level ground and on center stand if equipped. 2. Remove your turn signal lens. Place it upside down and clean the lens interior with the supplied alcohol wipe. Allow to completely air dry. Note: the LEDs are mounted to the inside of the turn signal lens with the LEDs making direct contact with the lens. The supplied silicone is used to secure the LED board to the lens. It remains flexible but can be removed. Test fit the board in your lens prior to using silicone. 3. Using a small screwdriver, poke a small hole in the end of the tube of silicone. Place a dab of silicone on each of the 12 LEDs on the circuit board. CAUTION : Note the position of the metal pins on the back of the LED board, They must be located 90 degrees from where the holes are that secure the lens to the housing. See attached diagram. 4. Position the round circuit board over the inside of your turn signal lens with the LEDs facing down. Get the board as centered as possible. Allow the silicone to make contact with the inside of the lens and then push down and slightly rotate the board back and forth to allow the LEDs to make contact with the lens surface. Repeat other side. NOTE : the silicone will require 30 minutes in 70 degree weather to tack up. Full cure will occur within 24 hours. We suggest not riding for several hours if possible to allow the best adhesion. 5. You will need to access the following wires; running light (license plate can be used), brake lights, right turn and left turn. Disassemble the bike as needed to gain access to the wiring. Shop Tip: we have found that on the Yamaha Star Series and the Kawasaki Cruisers that installation is much easier when you remove the turn signal bar from the fender. On the Yamahas, there are 3 bolts holding the moustache in position. The wires will unplug from behind the license plate. On the Kawasakis, unplug the signals under the seat and bend the tabs under the fender to be able to remove the wires. 6. We have provided some tubing to slide over the wires so that when you re-install the bulb socket, our wires for the LED boards will not be pinched. This tube should be slid all the way into the turn signal housing. You may have to shorten the tubing for your installation. 7. You will need to run wires through the stem of the turn signal. You can see samples of how the various manufacturers signal housings come apart on our web site. Click on “Other Lighting Products” and then “Turn Signal Conversion Kits” and follow the link. We suggest placing the removed turn signal assembly on a towel on your work area. 7. You will need to leave 2″ of slack in the wires at the turn signal housing to allow for wire connection. 8. Reinstall the turn signal housing back on the motorcycle if removed. NOTE: both of the run/brake circuits must be used. You may shorten the wires only on the run/brake circuits as needed. Do not change the circuits under the heat shrink. T-Tap instructions. Lay the “donor” wire in the slot in the burgandy connector. Close and snap together with pliars. Strip some insulation off of the wire which will be tapping into the factory wire. Crimp one of the pink connectors on the bare wire and plug it into the burgandy T-Tap 9. Connect the green wires from the run/brake circuits to the bikes running lights. The 2 greens can be connected together. 10. Connect the blue wires from the run/brake circuits to the bikes brake lights. The 2 blues can be connected together. 11. Take one of the red wires from a run/brake circuit and connect it to one of the black with white stripe wires coming from one of the LED boards using the supplied red butt connector. Connect the other run/brake circuit red wire to the remaining black with white stripe wire on the other LED board. 12. Connect the black wire from the LED board on the right side of the bike to the right turn signal positive (+) wire on the motorcycle. 13. Connect the black wire from the LED board on the left side of the bike to the left turn signal positive (+) wire on the motorcycle. 14. Plug the wires into the LED boards. If you hold the turn signal lens so that you are viewing the back of the LED board, position the connectors on the board at the 12 o’clock (top) position. The connector on the left is the positive (+) terminal. Connect the red wire to it. Connect the black wire to the remaining connector on the right side. 15. Check operation. LEDs should come on with running lights. LEDs will brighten when brake lights are applied. LEDs will shut off when the amber turn signal comes on. 16. Should you have any problems, please see the troubleshooting chart on our website.* * 17. Reassemble bike

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2001 Honda GL1800 Oxygen Sensor Replacement Manual

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 05-04-2011

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REPAIR PROCEDURE 1. Remove the top shelter (see page 2-10 in the Service Manual). 2. Remove the left and right O 2 sensors from the exhaust pipes. • You do not have to remove the exhaust pipes to remove the O 2 sensors. • Be sure to note the wire routing for proper reassembly. 3. Install the new O 2 sensors and route the wires properly (see pages 1-33 and 1-34 in the 2001- Service Manual). 4. Connect the black 4P female coupler of the sub- harness kit to the wire harness side black 4P male coupler (for the left-side O 2 sensor). 5. Connect the new left O 2 sensor to the black 4P coupler on the sub-harness. 6. Route the sub-harness from left to right, across the front edge of the fuel tank and secure it with the clip on the cruise actuator 7. Cut off the right 4P male O 2 sensor coupler (on the wire harness side). 8. Install a PVC cap onto the end of the Black/yellow wire and Green/red wire (these are the wires that were connected to the coupler that was removed in step 7). Fold each cap back and tape it securely to its wire; these wires are no longer used. • Do not cut the wires off, just tape them back. • The tape is supplied in the replacement kit. 9. Strip the ends of the White and Black/red wires (which were connected to the coupler that was removed in step 7) on the wire harness side and the 2P coupler on the sub-harness. Install a heat shrink tube on each wire of the sub harness. 10. Twist the ends of the White and Black/red wires of the sub-harness 2P coupler to the White and Black/red wires of the main harness. 11. Solder the wires using the solder from the kit. 12. Use a heat gun to secure the heat-shrink tubing over the soldered wires. 13. Connect the right O 2 sensor coupler to the white 4P male coupler on the sub harness.

HARLEY DAVIDSON TOUR-PAK RACK LIGHT KIT INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 06-02-2011

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INSTALLATION 1. Remove all contents from Tour-Pak®. 2. For easier installation, remove Tour-Pak rack, if installed, by removing cap screw, washers and mounting pads. 3. See Figure 1. Remove rubber plug from bottom rear rail on left side of rack. 4. See Figure 2. Use line wire feeder in kit to thread through left rear rack foot and out through the back opening of rail. 5. Attach light harness wires to line wire feeder loop. 6. Carefully pull line wire feeder and light harness wires through rack mounting foot. 7. See Figure 5 and Table 1. Apply foam pads (5) to top surface of light. 8. Secure light (1) to rack with socket head screws (4) and washers (6). 1 is05242 1. Plug Figure 1. Left Side Rack Plug 1 is05244 1. Line wire feeder Figure 2. Thread Wires Through Rack 9. Position rack/light assembly to Tour-Pak lid and route wires through lid, washer and hollow mounting bolt. 10. Attach rack/light assembly to Tour-Pak using instructions and hardware provided with rack except for use of hollow bolt from Step 9. 11. Remove Tour-Pak liner. 12. Thread wires through black vinyl conduit. 13. Ultra Classic models: Follow Steps 14 through 2114. Locate and disconnect three pin AMP connector for Tour- Pak lights. 15. See Figure 3. Attach the Y-harness (2) to the three pin male connector (1) of Tour-Pak harness. 16. Route light wires from back of Tour-Pak along left side to front. Secure conduit with adhesive clips provided in kit. 17. Trim length of light wires and conduit to reach Y-harness. 18. Refer to the Service Manual electrical appendix to install terminal pins (8) to rack light wires and install terminals to three pin housing (7) as follows: a. #1 cavity = blue lead b. #2 cavity = red with yellow lead c. #3 cavity = black lead 19. Connect rack light to remaining Y-harness connector. 20. Replace Tour-Pak liner. 21. Check operation of Tour-Pak tail and stop light functions before operating motorcycle. 22. Classic models: See Figure 4. If necessary, drill hole in lower left bottom of Tour-Pak and install grommet. Route rack light wires through grommet. 23. Refer to the Service Manual electrical appendix to install terminal receptacle (8) to rack light wires and install terminals to three pin receptacle housing (7) as follows: a. #1 cavity = blue lead b. #2 cavity = red with yellow lead c. #3 cavity = black lead NOTE To prevent corrosion, fill the cavities of the connectors with dielectric grease (included in kit) prior to making connections. As an additional precaution against moisture seepage into the Tour-Pak, apply silicone sealant (not included in kit) to the entrance of the light harness wire tunnel. See figure 2 for location reference. 24. Connect rack light to male connector of two connector wire harness (12) and connect to accessory connector under seat. 25. Replace Tour-Pak liner. 26. Check operation of Tour-Pak tail and stop light functions before operating motorcycle

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