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HARLEY DAVIDSON XL BRAIDED FRONT BRAKE LINE KITS INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 30-03-2011

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REMOVAL Direct contact of D.O.T. 5 brake fluid with eyes can cause eye irritation, swelling, and redness. Avoid eye contact. In case of eye contact flush with large amounts of water and get medical attention. Swallowing large amounts of D.O.T. 5 brake fluid can cause digestive discomfort. If swallowed, obtain medical attention. Use in well ventilated area. KEEP OUT OF REACH OF CHILDREN. (00144a) Direct contact of D.O.T. 4 brake fluid with eyes can cause irritation. Avoid eye contact. In case of eye contact flush with large amounts of water and get medical attention. Swallowing large amounts of D.O.T. 4 brake fluid can cause digestive discomfort. If swallowed, obtain medical attention. Use in well ventilated area. KEEP OUT OF REACH OF CHILDREN. (00240a) D.O.T. 4 brake fluid will damage painted and body panel surfaces it comes in contact with. Always use caution and protect surfaces from spills whenever brake work is performed. Failure to comply can result in cosmetic damage. (00239b) 1. Drain the brake fluid following the instructions in the service manual. Dispose of waste properly. To prevent accidental vehicle start-up, which could cause death or serious injury, disconnect negative (-) battery cable before proceeding. (00048a) To prevent accidental vehicle start-up, which could cause death or serious injury, remove main fuse before proceeding. (00251b) 2. Disconnect the battery, negative (-) cable first or remove the main fuse. Follow the instructions in the service manual 3. Remove bolt and two sealing washers to disconnect brake line fitting from master cylinder. Discard sealing washers, but save bolt for installation. 4. Remove bolt and two sealing washers to disconnect brake line fitting from front brake caliper. Discard sealing washers, but save bolt for installation. 5. Carefully make note of brake line routing, then remove existing brake line. NOTE This kit contains clamps and cable straps to either replace the original equipment clamps and cable straps being removed or to add additional brake line support. INSTALLATION Install proper length brake lines. Incorrect brake line length can adversely affect motorcycle operation, which could cause loss of control resulting in death or serious injury. (00325a) Replace brake line gaskets. Re-using original gaskets can cause brake failure and loss of vehicle control, which could result in death or serious injury. (00318a) Avoid leakage. Be sure gaskets, banjo bolt(s) and brake line are clean and undamaged before assembly. (00323a) 1. Position new sealing washers from kit on each side of hydraulic brake fittings (banjo fittings). Small ID washers are for caliper end, large ID washers are for master cylinder end. 2. Insert bolts (removed earlier) through washers and fittings. 3. Hold new braided brake line in position and install bolts into master cylinder and caliper. Tighten only enough to keep banjo fitting in the same orientation as the stock banjo fitting. 4. Verify there is no twist in the brake line. Adjust brake line if necessary. 5. Install clamps from kit by wrapping clamp around braided brake line at each of the clamp mounting locations. Verify clamps are oriented the same as the stock clamps. Install clamp screws but do not tighten. 6. Check entire length of braided brake line: a. Be sure brake line is not twisted. b. Turn handlebars fully-left and right while checking to make sure brake line does not contact any vehicle components. c. Be sure brake line length between clamps is sufficient. 7. Adjust brake line if necessary. 8. Tighten caliper and master cylinder banjo bolts to 20-25 ft-lbs (27-34 Nm) .

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2008 Kawasaki ZG1400 Concours ABS Front 3-Line Kit and FK003D625R Single Line Rear INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 29-01-2011

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Step 1: Identify the key components that complete our front brake line kit: You should have three (3) hoses, one (1) double banjo bolt, and two (2) single banjo bolts There are also a total of nine (9) washers and (3) brass conic inversors. Seven (7) washers and two (2) inversors will be used; the rest are spares. If you have purchased a rear kit as well, locate the following additional pieces: One (1) hose with bracket and c-clip attached, one (1) single banjo bolt, two (2) brass inversors and three (3) washers. You will use one (1) “olive” conic inversor and two (2) washers, the rest are spares. Step 2: To ensure no paint damage from a brake fluid spill, completely cover the front end of the bike. This process can be messy, and brake fluid WILL drip! Step 3: After drying out the OEM brake system, uninstall stock hoses. On the front brake line kit, we are replacing three hoses and their respective blocks (see pictures 1-2 for blocks) . For the rear, we are replacing one hose from the master cylinder to the ABS hard line. Take note of how the stock system was routed, in case you need to reinstall it. Step 4: Locate Line A – This will travel from the master cylinder to the ABS Junction. (See picture 3) You will use a single banjo bolt and two washers at the master cylinder, and an “olive” inversor to thread female end to hard pipe for incoming ABS (right side). * We have replaced the block at the upper triple clamp with a c-clip; please use your stock bolt to thread this in. (See picture 4) Locate Line B – This will travel from the ABS Junction to the right caliper. First, thread the female end to the hard pipe for outgoing ABS (left side). There will be a bolt from the OEM blocks at ABS Junction; please use this to thread c-clips into frame as shown in picture 5 . There is another bolt/OEM block located at the lower triple clamp; please use this to thread the c-clip in as seen in picture 6. Locate Line C – This will cross over the front fender using OEM holders, from right caliper to left caliper. Thread caliper banjos from Line B and C using the following sequence: double banjo hex, washer, 40- degree banjo from Line C, washer, 20-degree banjo from Line B, washer, caliper. Please see pictures 7 and 8 for reference. Thread single banjo bolt into left caliper, using two washers and 40-degree banjo. If applicable, locate rear Line D – this will travel from the rear master cylinder to the hard line for ABS. Thread the hard pipe into female end using a “olive” inversor, and attach bracket to swingarm as seen in picture 9 . Use the bolt from the holder for ABS hose, and sit our bracket on top of the OEM holder. Using the bolt from the OEM ABS hose holder in location shown in picture 10 , attach the c-clip on top of holder and tighten. Finally, thread 30-degree banjo in caliper using the following sequence: single banjo hex, washer, banjo, washer, caliper

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2002-2007 HONDA VFR 800 WITH ABS GALFER BRAKE LINE KIT INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 03-03-2011

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Prep the motorcycle for this job A. Park motorcycle on the center stand in a well-lit shop (Fig.A) B. Note: it is not absolutely necessary to remove the fuel tank and body panels. However, brake fluid is VERY CORROSIVE TO PAINT. We decided to be safe (Fig. B) and removed the lower fairing left and right rear sides, fuel tank, front fender, seat, and black A B plastic inner fairing front parts, battery cover, and rear master cylinder cover according to the owner’s manual. This also gives better access to the fittings. (Fig C) C. After safely storing the body panels and fuel tank, remove wind shield, (brake fluid, even a drop, will permanently mark any clear plastic), cover the dash and all gauges with a towel. II. Draining the brake fluid from the systems. A. A copy of the factory instructions has been included with this kit on how to properly and safely drain, fill and bleed the brake fluid from the brake systems. Follow the directions closely and remove the fluid according to the instructions. Dispose of the old fluid properly—DO NOT REUSE. B. If you purchased the clutch line, then perform the following steps (Fig D): In the bag marked Clutch Line: remove the left side lower body panels. Remove vehicle speed sensor, and remove the coolant C D tank. Remove the clutch fluid from the master cylinder on the left clip-on. Remove the fluid from the clutch line and slave cylinder. This factory line is NOT attached along the inner frame spar so here is a little trick that made this a 20- minute job including the bleed: 1. Remove the banjo bolts from the master cylinder and the clutch slave ends. 2. With a nice heavy wire tie, attach the slave end of the new braided line to the lever end of the factory line. Snip off the tail of the wire tie. Wrap this “joint” with electrical tape. 3. Pull from the factory slave end until you get the braided line end to the clutch slave. If it gets caught on something, try turning the end you are pulling from. 4. Remove the tape, carefully cut off the wire tie, install new sealing washers and bolts at both ends and torque to 17-21 foot/lbs. maximum. Bleed the clutch. III. Removing the factory front brake hoses and calipers – Front A. With the fluid drained and disposed of properly, loosen the bolts that hold the right caliper to the right fork leg (Fig E). Also remove the two 8mm bolts from the ABS front wheel speed sensor. Loosen all of the hose mounting blocks on the front forks on both sides; also loosen the blocks for the crossover pipe (Fig F) between the fork legs. Also loosen the frame pipe mounts and the mount for the front lever line that is also E attached to the right side of the frame. Loosen the left caliper mounting bolts (Fig G). B. Remove the calipers and remove the hose mounts under the lower triple tree. Remove the hard pipes from both the left and right hard pipe to soft line frame mounts on the frame (Fig. H). On the front ABS modulator remove the short soft line that is connected to the mount block. (Fig I.a. & I.b.) C. Carefully remove the

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1998-2001 HONDA VFR 800 Complete Brake Line Kit INSTALLATION

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 14-12-2011

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Identify the key components that complete our brake line kit: You should have nine (9) hoses, one (1) double banjo bolt, fourteen (14) single banjo bolts, (1) single bleeder bolt three (3) drawings, and a picture CD. There are also a total of forty (40) washers and two (2) “olive” conic inversors. Thirty six washers will be used, and two olives. The rest are spares.Step 2: Familiarize yourself with the brake lines, which are labeled for application. Lettered brake hoses A, B, C, D, E, F, G are installed on the front of the motorcycle, while brake hoses (H and I) are installed on the rear. Each label will reference a different drawing, which will show you the location of the key brake system
components.Step 3: To ensure no paint damage from a brake fluid spill, completely cover the bike. This process can be messy, and brake fluid WILL drip! Step 3: Dry out (bleed) your OEM hoses, and take note of how the stock system is installed. You may want to take a couple pictures, in case you need to re-install. Step 4:Remove the stock hoses on the front of the motorcycle, and replace with Galfer hoses labeled A,B,C,D,E,F,G. Locate lines A. this hose will run from the master cylinder down to the right caliper and across the fender through the C-CLIP down to the left caliper. Line D. will run from the (DELAY VALVE) up through the C-CLIP to the right side upper frame female fitting will thread into the male with a (OLIVE) this O.E.M tubing travels to the proportion valve. Line F will run from the left caliper up through the C-CLIP to the left upper frame female fitting and thread to the male with a (OLIVE) this tubing travels to the rear master cylinder. Locate and install line E; this hose will run from the lower delay valve down to the right caliper. locate and install line C& G; line G will travel from the bottom (left) mounting point on the left caliper, to the upper inner mounting point of the left caliper this line joins line C with a double banjo bolt. line C will travel from the inner left caliper through the C-CLIP across the front fender to the inner mounting point of the delay valve

HARLEY DAVIDSON SOFTAIL BRAIDED REAR BRAKE LINE KIT INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 04-02-2011

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INSTALLATION Direct contact of D.O.T. 4 brake fluid with eyes can cause irritation. Avoid eye contact. In case of eye contact flush with large amounts of water and get medical attention. Swallowing large amounts of D.O.T. 4 brake fluid can cause digestive discomfort. If swallowed, obtain medical attention. Use in well ventilated area. KEEP OUT OF REACH OF CHILDREN. (00240a) Direct contact of D.O.T. 5 brake fluid with eyes can cause eye irritation, swelling, and redness. Avoid eye contact. In case of eye contact flush with large amounts of water and get medical attention. Swallowing large amounts of D.O.T. 5 brake fluid can cause digestive discomfort. If swallowed, obtain medical attention. Use in well ventilated area. KEEP OUT OF REACH OF CHILDREN. (00144a) D.O.T. 4 brake fluid will damage painted and body panel surfaces it comes in contact with. Always use caution and protect surfaces from spills whenever brake work is performed. Failure to comply can result in cosmetic damage. (00239b) Drain Brake Fluid 1. Pop off bleeder nipple cap on the rear brake caliper. 2. Install one end of a length of plastic tubing over the caliper bleeder valve. Place the free end of the tubing into a suitable container. 3. Open the bleeder valve about 1/2-turn and pump the brake pedal to drain the brake fluid out of the rear brake system. Do not reuse brake fluid. Remove brake line components carefully. Damage to seating surfaces can cause leakage. (00320a) Remove Existing Rear Brake Line 1. Disconnect wiring harness connectors from brake light switch spade terminals. Avoid leakage. Be sure gaskets, banjo bolt(s) and brake line are clean and undamaged before assembly. (00323a) 2. Disconnect existing brake line from rear brake caliper and rear brake master cylinder assembly. Save banjo bolts, but discard brake line gaskets. NOTE This kit contains all gaskets needed for replacement. 3. Carefully make note of rear brake line routing and orientation of banjo fittings, then remove existing brake line. Save hex head screw holding brake light switch manifold to tab on frame, but discard brake line and attaching parts. 4. Unthread brake light switch from brake line. Save switch for later use.

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HARLEY DAVIDSON XL PULLBACK HANDLEBAR KIT INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 31-03-2011

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Installation Removing the Existing Front Brake Line To prevent accidental vehicle start-up, which could cause death or serious injury, disconnect negative (-) battery cable before proceeding. (00048a) 1. Refer to the Service Manual and follow the instructions given to remove the seat and disconnect the negative battery cable. Retain all seat mounting hardware. Direct contact of D.O.T. 5 brake fluid with eyes can cause eye irritation, swelling, and redness. Avoid eye contact. In case of eye contact flush with large amounts of water and get medical attention. Swallowing large amounts of D.O.T. 5 brake fluid can cause digestive discomfort. If swallowed, obtain medical attention. Use in well ventilated area. KEEP OUT OF REACH OF CHILDREN. (00144a) 2. See Figure 1. Open the bleeder nipple cap on the front brake caliper. Obtain a length of plastic tubing. Install one end of the tubing over the caliper bleeder valve (1). Place the free end of the tubing into a suitable container. Open the bleeder valve about 1/2-turn and pump the front-brake hand lever to drain the fluid out of the front brake system. Do not reuse brake fluid. NOTE Cover the front fender and the front of the fuel tank with clean shop towels to prevent scratching. Damage to the finish could result. Avoid leakage. Be sure gaskets, banjo bolt(s) and clutch line are clean and undamaged before assembly. (00329a) 3. Disconnect the brake line from the front brake caliper and the front brake master cylinder assembly. Discard the brake line sealing washers, but retain the banjo bolts. The brake line kit contains all new sealing wash- ers. CAUTION 1 CAUTION 1 WARNING 1 WARNING 1 WARNING ® Kit Number 56021-04B 1 of 6 Figure 1. Draining Brake Fluid i01986 i05811.tif 1 1. Caliper bleeder valve NOTE Carefully compare the new brake line to the old line before removing the old linefrom the motorcycle. Make sure the banjo fittings on the new brake line will be oriented the same as the fittings on the old line. 4. Make note of the front brake line routing and the orientation of the banjo fittings, then unfasten the brake line clamps at the right side of the front fork upper bracket and the underside of the front fork lower bracket, and remove the brake line assembly from the vehicle. Save the upper clamp and all attaching parts, but discard the brake line.

Aprilia Falco Synchronizing the Cylinder Vacuum

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Filed Under (Aprilia) by admin on 26-10-2010

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Motorcycle cylinders work quite independently compared to automobiles. Separate carburation, intake manifolds, exhaust pipes and sometimes even independent air filters allow the cylinders to be tuned so that one may be making more power than another. This can be due to differences in air flow, temperature, injection, or valve adjustment betwen the cylinders. Periodically, the cylinders should be synchronized. This is usually done by comparing intake manifold vacuum beneath each throttle and trimming the mixture until balanced. Some old-timers will tell you it can be done by ear, listening to the air flow in each carb throat through a tube stuck in your ear. Most modern tuners have switched to mercury sticks. Rigid tubes stuck in a bath of mercury are attached to the vacuum source. The vacuum draws the mercury up the sticks in proportion to pressure difference between the manifold and the atmosphere. In order to smooth out the individual vacuum pulses, a damping device is needed. This is nothing more than a small orifice (pin hole) restriction in the lines, placed close to the manifold with an air reservoir (length of tube) behind it. Because there is no real air flow in the gauges, there is no pressure drop across the orifice. But when the manifold vacuum drops there is a delay before the gauge pressure can bleed off and it appears steady and readable. Other types of vacuum gauges include mercury-less versions (that draw metal rods), or traditional needle, or “clock” gauges. The clock gauges are very fast acting (they are designed that way so you can see engine problems such as sticking valves). You will definitely need a damper if you choose a clock gauge. I would recommend using two side by side gauges for checking cylinder synch. The reason is, the cylinders are not perfectly independent. As one cylinder drops strength, the idle drops, and this will change the vacuum in the second cylinder’s manifold. It takes a bit of fooling around to get a cause-and-effect feel when you are turning the screws. Swapping gauges would make this difficult

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HARLEY DAVIDSON FLTR DETACHABLE TOUR-PAK ANTENNA RELOCATION KIT

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 19-02-2011

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Drilling Instructions for Antenna Base Mounting and Cable Routing 1. See Figure 1. Measure and determine the center of the outside rear Tour-Pak wall. 2. Lay a strip of 2 inch wide masking tape from top to bottom over the approximate center. 3. Very carefully measure again and mark the center near the top of the tape strip. Measure and mark the center near the bottom of the strip. 4. Draw a line from the top mark to the bottom mark. 5. Facing the centerline you have drawn, measure 9-1/4 inches from the center line to the left side. 6. At the 9-1/4 inch dimension, lay a vertical strip of 2 inch masking tape from the top to approximately the middle of the Tour-Pak wall. 7. Very carefully measure again and mark 9-1/4 inches from the top of center line to the top of the tape strip. Measure and mark 9-1/4 inches from the bottom of the center line to the bottom of the strip. 8. Draw a vertical line from the top mark to the bottom mark. 9. Measure 1-1/4 inches from the top edge, down the vertical line you have drawn and draw a short horizontal line across the vertical line. 10. Measure 1-1/2 inches down the vertical line you have drawn from your FIRST short horizontal line and draw another short horizontal line across the vertical line

1997-2003 HONDA CBR1100 XX Black Bird Complete Brake Line Kit INSTALLATION

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 05-11-2011

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identify the key components that complete our brake line kit: You should have eleven (11) hoses, one (1) double banjo bolt, fourteen (14) single banjo bolts, (1) Installation CD. There are also a total of Thirty Six (36) washers and two (2) “olive” conic inversors two (2) c-clips. Thirty Two (32) washers will be used, and two olives. The rest are spares. Step 2: Familiarize yourself with the brake lines, which are labeled for application. Lettered brake hoses A, B, C, D, E, F, G, H, K, I are installed on the front of the motorcycle, while brake hoses (J and K) are installed on the rear. Each label will reference a different drawing, which will show you the location of each brake line. Step 3: To ensure no paint damage from brake fluid, completely cover the bike. This process can be messy, and brake fluid WILL drip! Step 3: Dry out (bleed) your OEM hoses, and take note of how the stock system is installed. You may want to take a
couple pictures, in case you need to re-install. Step 4: Remove the stock hoses on the front of the motorcycle, and replace with Galfer hoses labeled A,B,C,D,E,F,G,H,K,I. Locate lline A. this hose will run from the master cylinder down to the Galfer t-block
joining line B to the right caliper upper mounting point. Line C will travel across the fender down to the left caliper upper mounting point. Line D will run from the (DELAY VALVE) up through the C-CLIP to the right side upper frame O.E.M tubing. The female fitting will thread onto the male with a (OLIVE). This O.E.M tubing travels to the rear master cylinder. Line E Travels from the lower delay valve down to the right caliper lower mounting point. Line F will run from the (SECONDARY MASTER CYLINDER) up through the C-CLIP to the left upper frame O.E.M tubing. The female fitting will thread onto the male with a (OLIVE).This tubing travels tothe rear delay vale

BMW K1100LT Installing Real Cruise Control

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Filed Under (BMW) by admin on 26-10-2010

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The vacuum reserve canister (VRC) is used to provide adequate vacuum for the cruise control servo unit. It uses the throttle body as a vacuum source and, via the vacuum check valve, stores up vacuum for the servo to use to pull the throttle cable. You can also buy one of these at an auto parts store for about $10-15 but I decided to build my own so I could make one that would fit inside the left front of the main fairing body. If you decide to buy one, make sure you can return it if it doesn’t fit inside the fairing or be prepared to mount it somewhere else like inside the tail cowl. I used 8″ of 2″ diameter PVC tubing because that is the length that would easily fit inside the fairing It is mounted inside the fairing in front of the left “bucket.” I used white PVC tubing but, in hindsight, would use black if possible since it is visible to the rider when mounted in the fairing. I suspect that the cruise control may actually work without the use of the vacuum canister so you might want to try the cruise without a VRC. If you do install the cruise control without a VRC, you’ll want to put a vacuum check valve in the vacuum hose that goes from the throttle body to the cruise control servo unit.
11/30/2005 08:23 PM Installing Real Cruise Control on a BMW K1100 Page 4 of 8 used epoxy for assembling the VRC as it’s my permanent adhesive of choice. Cut an 8″ length of 2″ diameter PVC tubing. Sand the edges. Drill two holes as shown for the check valve and vacuum tee. There’s a vacuum tee in the bags of installation miscellany that come with the cruise control. File the webbing from the right angles before gluing it and the check valve in place. Remember to glue the tee into place before gluing the end caps on. Make sure everything has an airtight seal. I used zip-ties to hold it in place inside the main fairing body in front of the left bucket

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