step by step instructions for crankshaft replacement for yz125

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Harley-Davidson Electronic Ignition Module Installation instructions

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 23-04-2012

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Step 1: Switch main dashboard switch to “off” position (Ignition& light switch) Step 2: Disconnect negative (ground) cable from the Battery Step 3: Remove the Condenser and Breaker points from the circuit breaker timing base. Step 4: Disconnect advance/ retard cable from timing base Step 5: Remove timing base from timer shaft and housing (see your manual for instructions) Step 6: Remove circuit breaker wire stud or circuit breaker to coil wire assembly from timing base Step 7: Remove circuit breaker wire from Ignition coil, and mark terminal on coil with piece of tape. Step 8: Install the Electronic Ignition Module on the timing base. Mount this short black wire to one on the timer base screws by keeping some slack in this wire so the timing base can turn free. Solder the flag terminal to this short black wire and mount it under the timer to motor bolt. This way of mounting provides a much better grounding. Do NOT use the screws (number 1 or 2 screws from picture below) from the timing base!!!! Step 9: Now three wires pass this hole via the rubber grommet. Figure 1 Figure 2 Step 10: Reinstall the timer base on the timer shaft housing, and keep some slack in the wires before protruding the hole in the timer shaft housing, and secure with ground spring and cover retainer. Reconnect the advance/retard cable to the timer base. Step 11: Route the two long wires to the ignition coil. Check in the HD service manual for a proper route to the ignition coil. (Keep away from hot surfaces like exhaust systems). Cut the wires to the exact length necessary for mounting. Step 12: Determine the exact length of the wire loom. Keep in mind that one end of the loom enters the timer shaft housing by 1cm. Cut the loom to the proper length. Step 13: Insert both wires in the loom. Strip both wire ends and solder the two flag terminals on the wires. Step 14: Connect the red wire to the ignition coil, on the terminal where the 6 or 12 volt is supplied to. This terminal has at minimum one wire connected which runs to the main switch. Step 15: Connect the black wire to the ignition coil on the terminal which is empty, and has piece of tape on it. (Old place where the circuit breaker wire was connected to) Step 16: Install the trigger rotor on the timer shaft cam, and tighten the hex screw by using the hex key tool. Do not over tighten the screw! Step 17: Check for clearance between trigger rotor and Electronic Ignition Module. Appropriate clearance is between 0,5mm and 1,5mm . Minor adjustments can be made by unlocking the two screws and slightly shift/move the Electronic Ignition Module. Check if the rotor moves free. Timing instructions: Remove the spark plugs from the engine, but keep them connected to the spark coil cables and engine ground. This enables normal operation of the spark, and prevents unwanted engine firing on compression stroke. See service manual or handbook for timing instructions of your model Step 18: Reconnect the negative (ground) cable to the battery. Step 19: Switch main power to “on” position. The red light in the Electronic Ignition Module might already light up. If not, turn the kick starter slowly. The red light is on while charging (closed points)the Ignition coil, facing solid metal of the trigger rotor. The light goes off (open points) when the end of the solid surface of the trigger rotor passes the centre of the Electronic Ignition Module. At that point a spark is generated by the coil

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Harley-Davidson Mid Kit POWERLET Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 07-05-2012

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STEP #1 Remove seat. STEP #2 Route wires starting at the battery end and finishing at the bracket. STEP #3 Connect the wires to the socket. STEP #4 Mount the bracket on the horn bracket located under the gas tank. STEP #5 Fasten ty-wraps. STEP #6 Put everything you took off back on. Detailed Instruction: STEP #1 -Remove the seat exposing the battery. See the owner’s manual. STEP #2 – Remove negative battery lead. Remove the positive battery lead and attach the red wire [B]. Attach the black wire to the gas tank bolt [C]. Run the wires below the gas tank by passing through the gap between the frame & gas tank [D]. STEP #3 – Finish routing the wire under the tank and up to the horn bracket. Install the fuse in the fuse-holder. The center terminal is plus and the outer ring is negative (see dwg below). Apply either dielectric grease or Vaseline to the spade terminals. Connect the red wire to the positive spade terminal & the black wire to the negative terminal. Use a voltmeter to check if the polarity is correct. STEP #4 – On the left side of the bike, under the gas tank, locate the horn and bracket. Remove the acorn nut from the bracket [A]. You may need to remove the second nut also. Attach the Powerlet bracket utilizing the supplied chrome & rubber washers (if necessary). Adjust the bracket so it is aligned. Tighten to 8 Nm. STEP #5 – Apply the three ty-wraps. Use one to secure the fuse-holder and the other near point [D] and the third near the socket. Do NOT allow the harness to directly contact the motor or exhaust

APRILIA FUTURA LEFT FRONT PANEL Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Aprilia) by admin on 26-10-2010

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STEP #1 Remove the left side panel & seat. STEP #2 Mount the socket. STEP #3 Route wires starting at the battery and finishing at the bracket. STEP #4 Attach the wires to the socket and test. STEP #5 Look over your work. STEP #6 Put everything you took off back on. Detailed Instruction: STEP #1 – Remove the seat & the left side fairing. See the Aprilia service manual. STEP #2 – Drill a 18mm hole into the panel (11/16″ hole saw recommended and is available on our site) where shown [A]. There is plenty of room for the knee of a tall rider. An alternate position is show at [E]. There is no need to completely remove the front fairing, just unscrew the bolt under the left handgrip; the panel will flex enough to work behind it. Watch the clearance behind the panel; make sure the socket has room. Attach the socket to the panel; use a dab of Silicone on the socket and jam nut after assembly. Important: Do NOT use Loctite or over-tighten. STEP #3 – Disconnect the battery ground & positive connections. Install the fuse in the fuse-holder. Mount the fuse-holder to the round cross tube [B]. Route the harness up on the inside of the frame piggyback with the seat release cable. The harness can be inserted in the same clip that the seat- release cable uses [F]. Use wire ties to secure it from touching the engine. Connect the red wire to the positive battery posts [C]. The red rubber boot may need to be notched to allow the wire to exit. Connect the ground connection under bolt [D]. Run the black wire along the inside of the frame rail, then pass under the frame rail near the attachment point. STEP #4 -The center terminal is plus and the outer ring is negative (see dwg below). Apply either dielectric grease or Vaseline to terminals. Connect the red wire to the POSITIVE terminal and the black wire to the NEGATIVE terminal. Use a voltmeter to check if the polarity is correct

DUCATI ST2/ ST4 Stock Socket Rewire Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Ducati) by admin on 25-10-2010

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STEP #1 Remove necessary fairings. STEP #2 Unplug the stock connector; plug in the new harness. STEP #3 Route wires starting at the bracket end and finishing at the battery. STEP #4 Look over your work. STEP #5 Check the polarity & test. STEP #6 Put everything you took off back on. Detailed Instruction: STEP #1 – Remove the seat, front, right side, & left side tail fairings. See the Ducati service manual. STEP #2 -Locate the white connector on the back of the stock socket. Unplug this connector and ty-wrap it into a safe location. Plug the new wiring harness into the back of the stock socket. The center terminal is plus and the outer ring is negative (see dwg below). Apply either dielectric grease or Vaseline to the terminals. STEP #3 – The harness is designed so the wires leave the connector toward the back of the bike, (this way they will not be seen). Loop the wires up through the gap between the frame & the engine controller (or storage bin). On the left side there is a small gap; do not pinch the wiring. You will need to remove four screws on the engine controller to accomplish this. Next cross over behind the engine controller (or storage bin). Re-tighten the engine controller. The harness is now routed toward the front of the bike [A]. Loosen right tail fairing front clip screw & pass the wiring harness under it [B]. Route the harness between the frame and the engine going towards air box. Using a ty-wrap attach the fuse holder to the back, right, air-box post [C}. In this location the fuse can be easily accessed under the tank. The ground wire is attached to a gas tank hinge bolt [D]. Connect the two wires as follows: RED WIRE = BATTERY POSITIVE BLACK WIRE = GAS TANK HINGE BOLT STEP #4 – Apply the remaining ty-wraps in useful locations. Do NOT allow the harness to directly contact the motor or exhaust

HARLEY DAVIDSON Detachable Solo Racks removal and Installation instructions

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 07-02-2011

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installation/Removal 1. While standing behind the motorcycle, place the front rack notches into the front docking points as shown in step 1 of the diagram. (Most of the rack, except a typical sideplate, has been removed for illustration purposes). 1 CAUTION Rear docking points may be damaged if rotary latches and sideplates are not properly aligned. If the latch does not easily close, do not force. Check alignment as described in step 2. 2. Pull the rotary latches back into their rearmost position as shown in step 2 of the diagram. 3. Push downward and close the rotary latches by pressing the latch lever as far forward as it will go as shown in step 3. You will hear a click when the latch is in place. If the latch does not easily close, do not force . Recheck alignment as described in step 2. 4. To remove the rack, press the release button shown in the diagram, and pull the rotary latch lever back. Carefully lift the rear of the rack up and pull the rack out of the front docking points. Position the rear rotary latches over the rear docking points, making certain the latches and sideplates fit into the neck of the rear docking points as shown in the rear view of step 2. This may require some gentle squeezing or spreading of the sideplates. Attaching Solo Rack INSTRUCTIONS -J00256 REV. 8-30-96 Detachable Solo Racks ® i00627 Step 1:place front notches into front docking points Step 2: pull back rotary latches and lower rack onto rear docking points Step 3: close rotary latches by pushing latch fully forward Release button

1991-1998 DUCATI 750ss 900ss POWERLET Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Ducati) by admin on 25-10-2010

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STEP #1 Remove tail fairing & seat. STEP #2 Route wires starting at the battery and finishing at the bracket. STEP #3 Attach the wires to the socket and test. STEP #4 Mount the bracket. STEP #5 Look over your work. STEP #6 Put everything you took off back on. Detailed Instruction: STEP #1 – Remove the tail fairing, & seat. See the Ducati service manual. STEP #2 – Stretch out the wiring harness. Locate a wiring harness behind the frame rail[B]. Grab the socket end of the harness and start routing the harness by looping the wires up through the gap between the frame members just behind the battery[B]. You should be following the wiring harness behind the frame rail. The wires will exit in the underside of the seat area, just like the existing harness[D]. Attach the ground (black) wire under the hinge mounting bolt[C]. Tie wrap the harness under the cross member[E]. Go back to the battery area and install the fuse in the fuse holder than, tuck the fuse holder under the rubber strap in front of the plus terminal of the battery[F]. Slip the red wire under the red battery boot[F]. Connect the red wire to the battery posts as follows: RED WIRE = BATTERY POSITIVE STEP #4 -Attach the wires to the socket. The center terminal is plus and the outer ring is negative (see dwg below). Apply either dielectric grease or Vaseline to the terminals. Use a voltmeter to check if the polarity is correct

Crankshaft Durability of Rover K-Series Engine: Comparison of ENGDYN Analysis with Dynamic Measurements

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Filed Under (BMW) by admin on 17-11-2010

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The Rover K-Series engine has now been in production for over 10 years, initially of 1.4 L capacity. Since then 1.1L, 1.6L, 1.8L and 1.8L VVC (Variable Valve Control) have been introduced with an accumulative build of two million engines since 1989. The 1.8L engine is also built under official licence for Lotus and Caterham, and also in the MGF motorsport series. The K-Series is an attractive buy due to its reduced cost and low weight, which is a necessity for sport cars. This report aims to validate Ricardo ENGDYN software with respect to Rover K-Series 1.8 Litre VVC crankshaft durability. The software will be used to output the behaviour of the crankshaft under as realistic conditions as possible. The oil film thickness and bearing load characteristics of the crankshaft through the running range of the engine will be compared to results obtained from in-house software. The torsional and bending vibration output from ENGDYN will then be compared with results obtained from dynamic measurements. Finally, the crank stress and durability results from ENGDYN will be compared to strain gauge measurements at comparative points on the crankshaft. ENGDYN is a computer program used for analysing the dynamics of the engine, and in particular the crankshaft and its interaction with the cylinder block. In this analysis the software will be used to predict the time-domain response of the 3-dimensional vibration of the crankshaft coupled to the block by way of a non-linear oil film. When this loading and motion has been calculated the software can perform a fast Fourier transform to break down the time-domain response into its corresponding frequencies. This allows the results to be post-processed in the frequency domain. 2 Method of Analysis 2.1 Engine Specifications Configuration: in-line 4 Fuel: Gasoline Cylinder bore: 80 mm Piston stroke: 89.3 mm Swept volume: 1.8L Crankpin Peak Power: 107 KW @ 7000 rpm Peak Torque: 174 N/m @ 4500 rpm Engine running range: 750-7200 rpm 2.2 Component Modelling 2.2.1 Crankshaft To perform the analysis within ENGDYN two crankshaft models were created. These included a complete stiffness representation of the crank (excluding the crank nose hub and the flywheel), and a detailed model of the crank from main bearing 4 to main bearing 5, with mesh density increased around the fillets. ENGDYN can however perform crank analysis of any portion of the crank as long as the model incorporates at least two main journal bearings. Features such as bolt holes and oil drilling were omitted on both models, which were meshed using solid tetrahedral elements

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TRIUMPH 750 BIG BORE CYLINDER AND PISTON SET FOR 650 TWINS INSTALLATION

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Filed Under (Triumph) by admin on 29-10-2010

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Step 1. Unpack your big bore kit and inspect the contents. There should be the following: 1. Cylinder x l 2. piston with wristpin x 2 3. Hepolite piston ring set x l 4. Special big bore head gasket Step 2. Thoroughly wash the cylinder bores with soap and water. Do not use solvent! Dry bores with air or a lint free towel and let completely air dry. This step is most important and will greatly extend the life of the pistons. Step 3. Following the procedure outlined in your service manual, drain the fuel tank, remove the exhaust system, fuel tank and carburetors. Have a catch basin handy to capture any fuel that may spill from the carburetors, as fuel is highly flammable and can be ignited by a dryer pilot light etc. from a long distance. Clean up any spilled fuel immediately and dispose of away from any source of ignition. Store the fuel tank in a well vented area, outdoors is best, in the event your fuel taps should leak. Step 4. Remove the rocker boxes by slacking the 9 head bolts a little at a time in a star pattern. Remove the 6 nuts at the front and back of the head. Remove the 4 corner rocker box bolts. Remove the head bolts and rocker boxes. Remove the push rods. Examine the push rods to insure they are straight and the ends are tight. Replace any suspect push rod. Step 5. Remove the cylinder head. Now would be a good time for guide and valve renewal. This is best left to an expert. More cylinder heads have been ruined by auto machine shops than by hard use. If you do not have a qualified shop in your area please call for a referral. Step 6. Remove the push rod tubes and the cylinder base nuts. Clip rubber bands around the top of the lifters to keep them from dropping into the crankcase. Have a few lint free rags handy. Bring the pistons to the top of the stroke and begin lifting off the cylinder. If the cylinder is hard to lift off, thread a nut on one of the base studs and use a tire lever to pry against the bottom fin close to its base using the stud as a fulcrum. After partially raising the cylinder stuff the crankcase mouth with rags to keep any carbon or broken rings from entering the crankcase. These will remain in place until step 12. Step 7. Leaving the rags in the crankcase remove the wrist pin circlips from the pistons and discard. Heat the piston and gently push the wrist pin out. Do not use force as this can damage the connecting rod or its bearings. Be sure to account for all the clips as one left in the crankcase can do extensive damage. Step 8. Clean all gasket surfaces to remove any traces of the old gaskets. Use Pennatex gasket remover if needed. Be very careful not to scratch the gasket surface or to allow any gasket particles to enter the crankcase. Even a small bit of gasket can stop the oil pump from working! Step 9. Note the direction and location of the lifters. These must be replaced in the same position as when removed. Remove the lifter blocks from the old cylinder. Start by removing the small retaining bolts and washers. The lifter blocks are extremely fragile and are easily broken. They are also very expensive so great care must be taken in this step! Triumph special tool 222-616008 is advisable here. Apply pressure to the center of the block only. Do not press against the tangs that locate the lifter! A tool can be fabricated using two dowels to locate in the lifter holes. Step 10. Clean and examine the lifters and camshaft faces. Clean the lifter blocks and remove the sealing oring under the locating flange. Replace these with the new orings in the gasket set. Apply a smear of gasket sealant to the lifter block oring and press into the new cylinder. Be sure the lifter block is parallel with the bores and the grooved block is on the exhaust side. Apply a small amount of assembly oil to the lifters and replace in the exact position they came from

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Ducati ST2/ ST4 Left Side Installation and Removal Instructions

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Filed Under (Ducati) by admin on 28-04-2012

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STEP #1 Remove necessary fairings. STEP #2 Mount the bracket-utilizing factory holes located under the passenger rear set. STEP #3 Route wires starting at the bracket end and finishing at the battery. STEP #4 Look over your work. STEP #5 Check the polarity & test. STEP #6 Put everything you took off back on. Detailed Instruction: STEP #1 – Remove the seat, front, right side, & left side tail fairings. See the Ducati service manual. STEP #2 – (RIGHT side shown, perform on LEFT) If your bike was equipped with a stock outlet unplug the existing harness & tie wrap this up out of the way, it is not used. Also remove the stock bracket from behind the rearset. Attach the new bracket behind the frame utilizing the two holes below the passenger rear set. Install the supplied 6mm hardware into the front hole and just snug them up. Adjust the bracket so rear hole is aligned with the hole in the frame; the tail fairing bolt & spacer go back in this hole later. Tighten the supplied front screw to 6 Nm.

HARLEY DAVIDSON SECURITY SYSTEM SMART SIREN KIT REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 09-02-2011

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REMOVAL 1. Refer to the owner’s manual and follow the instructions to disarm the security system. To prevent accidental vehicle start-up, which could cause death or serious injury, disconnect negative (-) battery cable before proceeding. (00048a) To prevent accidental vehicle start-up, which could cause death or serious injury, remove main fuse before proceeding. (00251b) 2. For All Models except 2002-2003 Touring and 2003- Later Softail: Refer to the owner’s manual and follow the instructions to disconnect the battery, negative (-) cable first or remove the main fuse. For 2002-2003 Touring and 2003-Later Softail Models: Remove seat following the instructions in the service manual and disconnect the battery, negative (-) cable first. Save seat hardware for installation. INSTALLATION 2002-2006 VRSCA, VRSCB, VRSCD Models 1. Open the seat. 2. See Figure 1. Remove the splash guard (mud flap) nuts. 3. See Figure 2. Lower the mud flap from the installed position and allow it to rest on the rear tire 3. Slide the siren into place on the left side of the electrical caddy so the sounder disc (6) faces out. 4. Refer to the owner’s manual and follow the instructions to install the main fuse. 5. Align the barbed studs on the side cover with the grommets in the frame and push side cover firmly into place. 6. Install the left side saddlebag per the instructions in the owner’s manual. 2003 and later Softail Models EXCEPT FXCW/C 1. Remove the right side saddlebag (if equipped) per the instructions in the owner’s manual. NOTE The siren connector is installed on an electrical panel under the rear fender on all Softail models. The rear of the motorcycle may have to be raised slightly to allow removal of the splash guard. 2. Remove the two bolts at the bottom of the splash guard. Bend the upper right corner of the splash guard toward the rear tire and lift upward to unhook the splash guard from the tab on the rear fork. Remove the guard from beneath the fender. 2 1 3 is01316 1. Siren mounting area 2. Siren connector [142B] 3. Harness clip Figure 16. Siren Connector (Softail Models EXCEPT FXCW/C) (Rear Fender View with Rear Wheel Removed) 3. See Figure 16. Remove the siren connector [142B] (2) from the receptacle in the siren mounting area (1) of the electrical panel. 4. See Figure 17. Insert security siren (1) connector [142B] into the siren box receptacle until the connector latches securely. 5. Orient the siren (1) as shown, with the harness connector (2) toward the bottom and the sounder disc (5) facing out. Carefully snap the siren into the electrical panel. 6. Insert the siren harness lead (4) into the harness clip (3) to keep the harness clear of other components. 7. If necessary, secure the connector wiring to the electrical panel wiring with a cable strap (not provided). 8. Hook the slot at the top of the splash guard over the tab on the rear fork and install the guard with the two screws removed earlier. Tighten securely. 9. Install the right side saddlebag (if equipped) per the instructions in the owner’s manual. 10. Refer to the owner’s manual and follow the instructions given to connect the battery cables or install the main fuse

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