step by step on how to attach carberators together on a 97 honda magna

You search Auto repair manual PDF step by step on how to attach carberators together on a 97 honda magna, if there are search results will appear below. If search results do not exist, please search by others keyword.



  step by step on how to attach carberators together on a 97 honda magna Direct Download speed 5282 Kb/s

  step by step on how to attach carberators together on a 97 honda magna Full Version speed 6162 Kb/s



Harley-Davidson Electronic Ignition Module Installation instructions

0

Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 23-04-2012

download
Step 1: Switch main dashboard switch to “off” position (Ignition& light switch) Step 2: Disconnect negative (ground) cable from the Battery Step 3: Remove the Condenser and Breaker points from the circuit breaker timing base. Step 4: Disconnect advance/ retard cable from timing base Step 5: Remove timing base from timer shaft and housing (see your manual for instructions) Step 6: Remove circuit breaker wire stud or circuit breaker to coil wire assembly from timing base Step 7: Remove circuit breaker wire from Ignition coil, and mark terminal on coil with piece of tape. Step 8: Install the Electronic Ignition Module on the timing base. Mount this short black wire to one on the timer base screws by keeping some slack in this wire so the timing base can turn free. Solder the flag terminal to this short black wire and mount it under the timer to motor bolt. This way of mounting provides a much better grounding. Do NOT use the screws (number 1 or 2 screws from picture below) from the timing base!!!! Step 9: Now three wires pass this hole via the rubber grommet. Figure 1 Figure 2 Step 10: Reinstall the timer base on the timer shaft housing, and keep some slack in the wires before protruding the hole in the timer shaft housing, and secure with ground spring and cover retainer. Reconnect the advance/retard cable to the timer base. Step 11: Route the two long wires to the ignition coil. Check in the HD service manual for a proper route to the ignition coil. (Keep away from hot surfaces like exhaust systems). Cut the wires to the exact length necessary for mounting. Step 12: Determine the exact length of the wire loom. Keep in mind that one end of the loom enters the timer shaft housing by 1cm. Cut the loom to the proper length. Step 13: Insert both wires in the loom. Strip both wire ends and solder the two flag terminals on the wires. Step 14: Connect the red wire to the ignition coil, on the terminal where the 6 or 12 volt is supplied to. This terminal has at minimum one wire connected which runs to the main switch. Step 15: Connect the black wire to the ignition coil on the terminal which is empty, and has piece of tape on it. (Old place where the circuit breaker wire was connected to) Step 16: Install the trigger rotor on the timer shaft cam, and tighten the hex screw by using the hex key tool. Do not over tighten the screw! Step 17: Check for clearance between trigger rotor and Electronic Ignition Module. Appropriate clearance is between 0,5mm and 1,5mm . Minor adjustments can be made by unlocking the two screws and slightly shift/move the Electronic Ignition Module. Check if the rotor moves free. Timing instructions: Remove the spark plugs from the engine, but keep them connected to the spark coil cables and engine ground. This enables normal operation of the spark, and prevents unwanted engine firing on compression stroke. See service manual or handbook for timing instructions of your model Step 18: Reconnect the negative (ground) cable to the battery. Step 19: Switch main power to “on” position. The red light in the Electronic Ignition Module might already light up. If not, turn the kick starter slowly. The red light is on while charging (closed points)the Ignition coil, facing solid metal of the trigger rotor. The light goes off (open points) when the end of the solid surface of the trigger rotor passes the centre of the Electronic Ignition Module. At that point a spark is generated by the coil

Incoming search terms:

1983 Honda V65 Magna REPAIR MANUAL

0

Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 28-11-2011

download
Don’t be deceived. The 1100 Magna is not just another Special. Writing off the V65 as simply another boulevard
parade float is like calling a 10 inch switchblade a pocket knife. It’s true, but misses the point entirely. The term
“Special” suggests highly styled motorcycles that go limp wristed when it’s time to perform. But the V65 is a urban
streetfighter through and through, a bike that can kick almost anything flat in a stoplight to stoplight brawl.
What makes this Special so special? In a word, the engine. If you talk horsepower, the Magna speaks your language. Its
horsepower translates directly into an immediate gut wrenching rush unmatched by any other production’. street
machine. To a man, the cycle staff raved about the engine. With its wonderfully potent and flexible powerplant, this big four is a strong and willing worker that hums along happily at 1500 rpm or sings fortissimo at the 10,000 rpm redline. The best part of the V65 is a mid range punch that would do justice to Larry Holmes. Whack the throttle open at 5000 rpm in first gear and the front wheel claws for the sky whilemthe Magna catapults forward. These antics are interesting enough when you’re mounted onman open class motocrosser but when a 589 pound motorcyclemwith a wheelbase of nearly 63 inches takes off like a carriermbased F-14, it gets your full attention.Honda built the V65 engine with technology carried overnfrom the V45, but the big Magna has all new hardware,. it shares no parts with the 750s. Though the designs are virtually identical, everything has been scaled to 1100cc specs. The V65 benefits from Honda’s extremely compact Vee engine design; at 17.4 inches, the 1100′s engine is barely an inch wider than the narrow 750 V four. The Magna’s 90 degree Vee angla sets the two front cylinders low and nearly horizontal, while the rear cylinders stand almost vertical. This right angle configuration produces perfect primarybalance, and a short stroke limits secondary imbalances.

Incoming search terms:

HONDA VTX 1800 AIR HORNS AHVTX INSTALATION INSTRUCTIONS

0

Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 23-12-2010

download
1. Remove the right and left frame side covers and the seat. 2. Unplug and remove the stock horn located behind the left foot peg. Re-route the horn wires up over the front cylinder head and to the rear. Next cut two pieces of wire 36″ long, strip both ends ¼”, crimp two male spade terminals to one end and two females to the other ends. Attach these wires to the stock horn wires and route them over the rear cylinder and behind the frame tube. The end of the wires should come out near the center of the left side cover area (see photo 1 A). Connect these two wires to the relay terminals 85 & 86 (these will be the two that are parallel to each other see wiring diagram for terminal identification). 3. Using a blade screwdriver pry the two hoses with the “Y” connector off of the air horns. Cut a new piece of hose 2 ¾” long, replace the old short hose on the “Y” with this. Re-install the “Y” hose assembly onto the horns with the short hose on the long trumpet, route the hoses behind the horns and connect the long hose to the short horn (see photo 2A). 4. Remove the upper 8mm (12mm wrench size) motor mount bolt (see photo 2B). Install the horn assembly using the 8 x 55mm bolt and spacer tube provided. If the motorcycle is fitted with Honda line tubular radiator or engine guards the above mounting will not work. You will need instead to locate the “J” shaped bracket and small hose clamp provided in the hardware kit (see photo 2 on instructions of multi -application instruction sheet). Thread the hose clamp thru the bracket and attach to the frame or Honda line guards as shown ( see photos 2&3 ) tighten the hose clamp securely using a socket or wrench. Attach the horn set to the “J” bracket using the 5/16 x ¾” bolt, nut and lock washer provided. Position the horns so that they are angled down just slightly then tighten the bolt securely. Attach the remaining air hose to the “Y” connector, route the hose up over the top and to the rear of the engine. Cross the hose over to the right side of the rear cylinder head, then behind the electricals of the right side cover and coming out as shown ( see photo 3 A & B ). 5. Remove the center relay from its mounting bracket by lifting it upward and re-attach it lower and at an angle as shown (see photo 3C) using a small cable tie. Route two long cable ties thru the hole in the relay mounting bracket as shown (see photo 3D). Next cut a 16″ wire, strip both ends, crimp female spades to both ends. Attach this wire to the compressors pos (+) terminal. Cut an 8″ wire, strip both ends, crimp a female spade to one end and a fork terminal to the other. Attach this wire to the compressors neg. (-) terminal. Cable tie the compressor securely in place as shown (see photo 4). Route the hose to the compressor making sure there are no tight bends or kinks cut the hose to the desired length and attach it to the compressor. Route the neg. (-) wire with the fork terminal up and attach it to the 10 mm bolt as shown (see photo 4A) . Route the pos. (+) wire over to the relay on the left side of the motorcycle and attach it to terminal 30 or 87 on the relay (see wiring diagram)

Honda Foreman 500 And Honda Rubicon WINCH MOUNTING KIT INSTALLATION

0

Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 13-12-2011

download
Begin by removing the front skid plate located on the front of the ATV. Remove the four side 8mm bolts and four bottom 6mm bolts securing the front skid plate, figure 1. Save the fasteners as they will be used later to reinstall the front skid plate. 2. Remove the four plastic rivets on each side of the front plastic fascia, figure 2. Use a large screw driver to carefully remove the center rivet. After removing the center rivet, remove the rivet housing. Save the fasteners as they will be used to reinstall the front plastic fascia. 3. Remove the two 6mm bolts that attach the front plastic fascia to the bumper, figure 3. Remove the front plastic fascia at this time . Remove the two 6mm bolts that attach the front bumper to the plastic headlight assembly, figure 4. Save the fasteners as they will be used to reinstall the front bumper. 5. Remove the two top 8mm bumper bolts that attach the front bumper to the front rack, figure 5. Save the fasteners as they will be used to reinstall the front bumper. Figure 5 Remove Top Bumper Bolts Remove (both sides) 6. Remove the two ottom bumper bolts that attach the bumper to the bottom of the vehicle frame, figure 6. Save the fasteners as they will be used to reinstall the front bumper

Incoming search terms:

Honda GL1800 Front Mount Air Horn Installation Instructions

0

Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 23-12-2010

download
1. Place the motorcycle on the centerstand. 2. Remove the left side cover (painted) to expose the battery. Remove the left plastic engine cover (chrome) . Remove the lower center fairing cowl or spoiler; there are 2 pull pin rivets and 6 allen screws holding this panel in place. Drop the panel down and slide it out to the right or left. 3. Horns and Mounting Bracket: Attach the large “L” shaped bracket with the split clamp to the engine guards as shown in photo #1. NOTE: Make the screws snug only! Install the horn set onto the “L” bracket using the 2 allen screws provided, tighten securely. Align the horn set to be level and to have clearance between the fairing as shown in photo #2, tighten securely. 4. Compressor: Remove the stock left hand horn and loosely re-install the 12mm mounting bolt (see photo #4A). Next as shown in photo # 3, to the compressor attach the air hose, the short red wire to the (+) positive terminal and the white wire to the (-) negative. The mounting bracket should be bolted to the compressor as shown. Install the compressor assembly as shown in photo #4 onto the 12mm bolt and tighten securely. Note! It you may need to adjust the angle or bend of the bracket for a good fit. Try to maintain at least a one-inch clearance between the exhaust header pipe and the compressor, wires and air hose. 5. Relay and Wiring: Attach the red wire from the compressor to the relay terminal 30 (see wiring diagram). Attach the long red wire to the relay terminal 87. Attach the stock horn wires to the remaining terminals 85 & 86 it does not matter which wire goes to which of these two terminals. Attach the white ground (-) wire from the compressor to the lower cowl-mounting bolt as shown in photo # 4B. Cable tie the relay in place as shown in photo #4C. Route the long red wire up and back over the left side of the engine to the battery, This is easiest done using a stiff piece of wire (a coat hanger works good) with a small loop bent at one end. Push the wire from rear of the engine towards the front. Attach the red wire with electrical tape and pull the wire back towards the rear of the engine. Route the wire back to the battery (+) positive terminal, cut the wire to the desired length, strip back insulation 3/8″ crimp on the fuse holder provided and attach to the battery (+). Replace the side covers Route the air hose as shown in photo #5 so as not to kink it or be less than 1″ from the exhaust, then over the front of the engine, up and out to the horns just behind the engine guards, trim to the desired length and attach to the “Y” fitting. Using a lighter or match, heat seal or melt the end of the hoses braided cover to prevent it from fraying. Turn on the ignition and test the horns

Harley-Davidson Mid Kit POWERLET Installation Instructions

0

Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 07-05-2012

download
STEP #1 Remove seat. STEP #2 Route wires starting at the battery end and finishing at the bracket. STEP #3 Connect the wires to the socket. STEP #4 Mount the bracket on the horn bracket located under the gas tank. STEP #5 Fasten ty-wraps. STEP #6 Put everything you took off back on. Detailed Instruction: STEP #1 -Remove the seat exposing the battery. See the owner’s manual. STEP #2 – Remove negative battery lead. Remove the positive battery lead and attach the red wire [B]. Attach the black wire to the gas tank bolt [C]. Run the wires below the gas tank by passing through the gap between the frame & gas tank [D]. STEP #3 – Finish routing the wire under the tank and up to the horn bracket. Install the fuse in the fuse-holder. The center terminal is plus and the outer ring is negative (see dwg below). Apply either dielectric grease or Vaseline to the spade terminals. Connect the red wire to the positive spade terminal & the black wire to the negative terminal. Use a voltmeter to check if the polarity is correct. STEP #4 – On the left side of the bike, under the gas tank, locate the horn and bracket. Remove the acorn nut from the bracket [A]. You may need to remove the second nut also. Attach the Powerlet bracket utilizing the supplied chrome & rubber washers (if necessary). Adjust the bracket so it is aligned. Tighten to 8 Nm. STEP #5 – Apply the three ty-wraps. Use one to secure the fuse-holder and the other near point [D] and the third near the socket. Do NOT allow the harness to directly contact the motor or exhaust

Incoming search terms:

HONDA VTX1300 AIR HORN INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

0

Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 29-01-2011

download
1. Remove the rider and passenger seats, left chrome side cover & original horn located at the top of the radiator. 2. Locate the supplied black horn mounting bracket and supplied smaller hose clamp. Notice the slight twist in the bracket. Using 2 adjustable wrenches or a vise and one wrench remove the twist from the bracket. Route the hose clamp thru the bracket. (As shown in photo 1A) 3. Install the bracket on to the left frame tube, (As shown in photo 1A) and tighten securely. Bolt the supplied horns to the bracket using the supplied bolt, lock washer and nut, (As shown in photo 1) and tighten securely. Install the supplied trumpet covers (As shown in photo 1B) by flexing the spring clips over the trumpets. Check that they fit securely. If not remove covers, make sure the center screw is tight and bend spring clips in towards center of covers and re-install. Using a blade screwdriver pry the two supplied hoses with the “Y” connector off of the air horns cut a new piece of hose 3 ½” long from the hose and replace the short hose on the “Y”. Re-install the “Y” hose assembly with the short hose going on the long or upper trumpet. (See photo 1C) Re-route the original horn wires. (As shown in photo 1D) 4. From the supplied wire cut 2 pieces 28″ long. Strip ¼” of insulation from both ends. Crimp 2 supplied male terminals to one end and 2 supplied female spade terminals to the other end. Plug the male ends into the original horns wires. (As shown in 1D) Attach the remaining air hose to the “Y”. Tape the hose and wires together every 6-8″ using electrical tape to make routing easier and neater. Route the wires and hose up under the fuel tank, over the cylinder heads coming out between the frame rails at the rear of the fuel tank. (See photo 2A) Locate the supplied relay and plug the 2 wires from the original horn onto terminals 85 & 86 on the relay. (See wiring diagram on back of last page of instructions) This will be the 2 outer terminals that are parallel to each other. Locate the supplied fuse, holder & wire assembly. Crimp a supplied fork terminal to one end and a supplied female spade to the other. Attach the spade terminal to one of the remaining outer relay terminals. (#30 or 87 on wiring diagram) Remove the 3 Phillips screws from the battery top cover. Remove the cover and attach the fork end of the fuse wire to the positive (+) terminal. Re-install the battery cover. 5. Cut a wire 9″ long and strip ¼” insulation from each end, crimp a fork to one end and a female spade to the other. Attach this wire to the compressors negative (-) terminal. Cut another wire 18″ long and strip both ends. Crimp a female spade to both ends. Attach this wire to the compressor positive (+) terminal. Route the air hose out under the left side cover as shown in photo (3). Hold the compressor in place against the frame tube. Note: Looking at the large end of the compressor the space between the hose fitting and the bolt mounting flange forms a “V” shape. This is where the compressor should rest against the frame. Next loop the hose around to the compressor hose fitting and trim the hose to the desired length. Attach the hose to the compressor. Secure the compressor to the frame using 2 large supplied cable ties as shown. 6. (See photo 3A) Attach the compressor negative (-) wire to the bolt on the frame (As shown in photo 3B) Route the compressor positive (+) wire along the side up to the relay and attach to the remaining outer terminal 87 or 30. Cable tie the relay in place. (As shown in photo 2B) Use several of the supplied short cable ties to secure the compressor wires to the air hose (As shown in photo 3) as wells as any other loose wire or hose.

Incoming search terms:

Honda CBR-929RR/ 954RR – Installation Instructions (slip on system)

0

Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 03-11-2011

download
Remove the lower fairing. Remove the rear turn signals. Remove the existing exhaust system from the HTEV valve rearward, save the mounting bolts for reuse. Save the stock exhaust can mounting bolt and nut for the end can to the passenger footpeg for reuse as well. Install the supplied HTEV joint plate to the rear of HTEV valve (see photo 1) using the stock mounting bolts. Tighten per factory specifications. Install the 2 Y-pipes to the joint plate, but do not install the supplied springs at this time. Install the S-Bend to the two Y-pipes, but do not install the supplied springs at this time. If you plan to keep the passenger footpegs, follow this step, otherwise, skip to step 8. Reassemble the right
passenger footpeg assembly in this order (from the subframe outwards): Spacer A, Stay Arm F, Spacer B, passenger footpeg assembly (from step 7 above). Use the supplied 8x110mm bolts D (2x) to fasten to the subframe (reuse nuts). See figure 3 for details. Proceed to step 8. If you plan to remove the passenger footpeg assemblies, follow this step and ignore step 6 above. Use: Spacer A and place the Stay Arm F against it. Use the supplied 8x50mm bolts E (2x) to fasten to the subframe (reuse nuts). See figure 3 for details, but use only the hardware specified in this step.
Slide the TiForce end can into place. Loosely attach the two rubber bands, stainless steel bands K, and stay / hanger G to the end can using the supplied 6mm hardware H. See figure 1 for details. Place the bands approximately 120mm from the edge of the end can. See figure 2 for details.

2007 Kawasaki ZX6R Full System Installation

0

Filed Under (Kawasaki) by admin on 05-11-2010

download
1. Remove the faring lowers (save STD bolts for reuse) , side faring (save STD bolts for reuse) , seat faring (save front 2 STD bolts for reuse) and right silencer cover. 2. Detach the turn signal assy, (unplug the cable coupler of turn signal and brake light at the same time) 3. Remove the radiator under bracket and lightly unscrew the radiator mounting bolt. Move the radiator forward. This will make you to have enough room for detaching exhaust pipes and flange nuts. Then, take off the standard headpipes. Detach the cable of the exhaust device and l eave servomotor stayed in the motorbody. (save (3) STD bolt and nut and (8) flange nuts for reuse) 4. Assemble the enclosed head pipes 1,2,3 and 4 by matching the 4-2-1 joint. Do not install the exhaust springs at this time. Lightly attach the assembled head pipe sections to the exhaust ports. Make sure the ends of the head pipes fit snug in the ports. 5. Install the tail joint and tail pipe to the joints. Do not install the exhaust springs yet. Jiggle the whole assemble for better fitting. Lightly attach the tail pipe by standard bolt and nut saved in step 3, but do not tighten the bolt fully. (see Image 1) *Recommend to use new gasket to prevent from leaking the exhaust. *Lightly screw the (8) STD flange nuts saved in step 3. * Cylinder number is 1, 2, 3 and 4 from the left hand side with you on the motorbike. 6. Attach enclosed silencer stay A to the place where the standard silencer mounted by (2) STD bolts and nuts saved in step 3. Reinstall the seat faring and penetrate the (2) 5x45mm to the hole of a seat faring mounted. Fix the Silencer stay A by enclosed (2) M5 nuts and (2) aluminum collar using the thread of penetrated M5x45bolts. (see Image 2 and drawing 1) Image 2 7. Insert the TiForce silencer to the tail pipe. Put silencer band and band rubber to the assembled silencer stay A by enclosed (2) M8x20mm bolt and (2) M8 washer. (see drawing 1) 8. Attach the supplied springs to all the joints. Use a spring puller to prevent damage to the springs that could lead to future failure. Put the radiator back to the original position. 9. Attach the L and R license number stay to the silencer stay A. (see Image 3) (see drawing 1) 10. Reinstall the firings detached in step 1. Attach the right silencer cover to the frame by using enclosed faring stay and (1) M6x20mm. (see drawing 1) 11. Make sure the exhaust system is free and clear of the faring. If necessary, adjust for proper clearance.. Removed the fairings reinstalled in step 10. 12. Securely tighten all fasteners in this order (from exhaust pipe flange to silencer stay) Image 3 14. Attach the turn signal assy detached in step 2 to the license number stay. (Use (4) M6x15mm) (See Image 4) Plug the cable couplers.

TRIUMPH 750 BIG BORE CYLINDER AND PISTON SET FOR 650 TWINS INSTALLATION

0

Filed Under (Triumph) by admin on 29-10-2010

download
Step 1. Unpack your big bore kit and inspect the contents. There should be the following: 1. Cylinder x l 2. piston with wristpin x 2 3. Hepolite piston ring set x l 4. Special big bore head gasket Step 2. Thoroughly wash the cylinder bores with soap and water. Do not use solvent! Dry bores with air or a lint free towel and let completely air dry. This step is most important and will greatly extend the life of the pistons. Step 3. Following the procedure outlined in your service manual, drain the fuel tank, remove the exhaust system, fuel tank and carburetors. Have a catch basin handy to capture any fuel that may spill from the carburetors, as fuel is highly flammable and can be ignited by a dryer pilot light etc. from a long distance. Clean up any spilled fuel immediately and dispose of away from any source of ignition. Store the fuel tank in a well vented area, outdoors is best, in the event your fuel taps should leak. Step 4. Remove the rocker boxes by slacking the 9 head bolts a little at a time in a star pattern. Remove the 6 nuts at the front and back of the head. Remove the 4 corner rocker box bolts. Remove the head bolts and rocker boxes. Remove the push rods. Examine the push rods to insure they are straight and the ends are tight. Replace any suspect push rod. Step 5. Remove the cylinder head. Now would be a good time for guide and valve renewal. This is best left to an expert. More cylinder heads have been ruined by auto machine shops than by hard use. If you do not have a qualified shop in your area please call for a referral. Step 6. Remove the push rod tubes and the cylinder base nuts. Clip rubber bands around the top of the lifters to keep them from dropping into the crankcase. Have a few lint free rags handy. Bring the pistons to the top of the stroke and begin lifting off the cylinder. If the cylinder is hard to lift off, thread a nut on one of the base studs and use a tire lever to pry against the bottom fin close to its base using the stud as a fulcrum. After partially raising the cylinder stuff the crankcase mouth with rags to keep any carbon or broken rings from entering the crankcase. These will remain in place until step 12. Step 7. Leaving the rags in the crankcase remove the wrist pin circlips from the pistons and discard. Heat the piston and gently push the wrist pin out. Do not use force as this can damage the connecting rod or its bearings. Be sure to account for all the clips as one left in the crankcase can do extensive damage. Step 8. Clean all gasket surfaces to remove any traces of the old gaskets. Use Pennatex gasket remover if needed. Be very careful not to scratch the gasket surface or to allow any gasket particles to enter the crankcase. Even a small bit of gasket can stop the oil pump from working! Step 9. Note the direction and location of the lifters. These must be replaced in the same position as when removed. Remove the lifter blocks from the old cylinder. Start by removing the small retaining bolts and washers. The lifter blocks are extremely fragile and are easily broken. They are also very expensive so great care must be taken in this step! Triumph special tool 222-616008 is advisable here. Apply pressure to the center of the block only. Do not press against the tangs that locate the lifter! A tool can be fabricated using two dowels to locate in the lifter holes. Step 10. Clean and examine the lifters and camshaft faces. Clean the lifter blocks and remove the sealing oring under the locating flange. Replace these with the new orings in the gasket set. Apply a smear of gasket sealant to the lifter block oring and press into the new cylinder. Be sure the lifter block is parallel with the bores and the grooved block is on the exhaust side. Apply a small amount of assembly oil to the lifters and replace in the exact position they came from

Incoming search terms:

Incoming search terms: